Difference in CD drives?

OK, I am going to purchase a Mac mini, what is the difference between the CD drives? One is a combo drive and one is a SuperDrive. What is the difference?

The combo drive plays DVDs but only reads and writes CDs. The superdrive reads and writes DVDs, and also reads and writes CDs.

Similar Messages

Differences In "Combo Drive" vs. the "Double-Layer Superdrive" ?

i was looking at the base macbooks on the apple mac website and there is two different white models and one has the "combo drive" and the other has the "double-layer superdrive". is there much of a difference?
also, on those two base models, one has a 2.0Ghz processor and the other is a 2.2Ghz... is there really going to be much of a noticeable difference?
thanks!

The difference is that the combo drive cannot burn DVD - it can only burn CD. The SuperDrive can burn CD or DVD.
Both combo and SuperDrive can play cd's and DVD's.

Difference between IVI driver and VXI PnP Driver

There are two type of Instrument Drivers for the same instrument, i.e. IVI Driver and VXI PnP Driver. I want to know what is really the difference between these two and on what conditions which one is better than other?
Thanks in Advance

Hi M.Jonathan,
both driver are a HW abstraction.
The IVI driver bases on the idea that a class of instruments (DMM, Scope, ...) support the same functionality. When changing an instrument you normaly have a different command set for these instruments. You have to modify your code. With the IVI layer, all instruments supports the same functions. The communication is done by IVI and driver layer.
In the description of the VXI PnP Driver. The VXI PnP is VISA based. The idea of VISA is having one API for all instrumentation buses. Based on VISA VXI PnP provides a pool of functions for instruments including GUIs.
'on what conditions which one is better than other' The first question should be: Is there a driver available. Any other reasons depend on the application.
Hope, this helps.
Philipp
AE | NI-Germany

Ibook g4 and rpm speed difference on hard drives?

Hello, I am curious if upgrading my hard drive to a higher/faster rpm drive would take any more power from my computer to run, and if it will be too much work for my logic board to handle without overloading?
It has been a great computer so far, even with only 1.42ghz, but i dont want to make it work so hard that it breaks.
Thanks you.

mac_ad111:
It will not have any noticeable effects. Upgrade to the largest capacity HDD you can afford, as that will give you greater areal density, which along with the increased speed, will make your computer sing. You need a 2.5" PATA/IDE drive. They come in speed up to 320 GB. I suggest you consider 250 GB or 320 GB. The highest speed available is 5400 rpm which will be a big increase over your 4200 rpm dirve. If you plan to install it yourself, please post back for step by step directions and additional tips.
Please do post back with further questions or comments.
cornelius

Differences between repository driver and NVIDIA's one [solved]

hello pals...
what does NVIDIA's driver installs that "repository" ones don't?
I ask it cause with repository ones I can't fold... (folding at home) and the solution is only install distro one and "over it" the NVIDIA ones
Someone knows if the repository one came without something?
the issue on folding at home
22:52:09:WARNING:WU01:FS00:FahCore returned: UNKNOWN_ENUM (127 = 0x7f)
22:52:10:WARNING:WU01:FS00:FahCore returned: UNKNOWN_ENUM (127 = 0x7f
Last edited by ilkyest (2013-09-25 16:22:04)

judging from this:
https://aur.archlinux.org/packages.php?ID=23981
i'd say you're missing the cuda stuff (can't say more than that!)

Why is the difference in the Driver Version numb

Hi all,I from down load site did a down load of the SB X-Fi Xtreme Music driver version 2.5.002. After my download the Dell's Device Manager Details for the SB X-Fi Xtreme Driver detailssuggestsVersion 6.0..35Date 0/5/2007. Mine a factory installed upgraded SB X-Fi Xtreme music PCI sound card. Would this be an OEM or Not?Thanking you?Snow

Its the package version I think as ssome drivers can contain lots of different versions.Would make sense to line up all up and call it the 6.0..35 package, but only NVIDIA seems to have the common sense to release drivers in such a way (even ATI like having Catalyst releases containing a different control center version and display driver version)

Driver program and a print program

hi all,
wat is the basic difference between a driver program and a print program in scripts.
How do we do modification for FI scripts
Thanks & Regards,
Saroja.

hi Saroja,
Driver program or print program both r same... u can call either driver program or print progam.
Modifying the scripts depends upon your requirement,
basically if u have standard scripts better to copy it to zscript then make the chages like adding company logo or adding the company address or adding the terms and conditon what ever u asked to do then use the same print program write the extra logic in a subroutine in an executable program and call this routine in the script.
This is the method to modify the scripts with out modifying the print program because sometimes its not advisable to change the print program or
u can copy the print program to z program and u can add u r extra logic into it
~~Guduri

Hard Drive Crash-round 2

Last night, I'm pretty sure my Macbook hard drive crashed. AGAIN. I first ordered it online on July 5th of 2007 brand new right from the Apple Store. On January 11th of 2008, my first hard drive crashed. System locked up, heard clicking under the keyboard, blinking folder with a question mark inside of it whenever it was powered on. I took it to the Apple store, the Genius Bar guy took the HD out and checked it-dead. It was replaced on the 17th-I kept the receipt just incase. Last night I was typing a paper up for my Child Psych class when iTunes stopped responding. When I tried to quit it (command+q), nothing happened. I clicked the Apple in the top left hand corner to force quit it, and the whole system locked up. I heard clicking under the keyboard again, so I manually shut it off. And now I have the same blinking folder with the question mark again, and this time it even makes a beeping sound for me sometimes.
I called Apple this afternoon, and they keep wanting me to reset this, reset that, try this and try that. I've tried everything just as I did in January when this first happened, and no luck again. I was told to make an appointment at the nearest store (which is 65 miles away, 130 round trip) so they could tell me it was dead and give me a new one just to crash again in a few months and I lose everything all over again.
Anyway, the whole point of this is to find out what could be causing me to lose HD after HD? I really know nothing about Macs as a whole except for hard drive crashing issue; I've only used the OS for a little over a year so I'm putting this out there to anyone who knows more about them than I do. The machine mainly stays on my computer desk, but sometimes it ventures over to my bed. I charge it as needed, it doesn't leave the house (been too scared to do a lot with it since the first crash) so isn't slammed around in a backpack or dropped. Could it be actual hardware inside that is causing the failures, and if so, is that something that Apple could potentially check out and diagnose?
Thanks!

Same for me, MacBook bought in December 2006 in Germany with 2 GHz Processor, 2 GB of RAM and 160 GB hard drive,
first drive crashed in december 2007, second drive just crashed in november 2008,
both drives were the Hitachi HTS541616J9SA00
now the replaced drive is again a Hitachi HTS541616J9SA00
I asked the Apple Service Center to put in a drive of another brand (I would pay the difference to the drive covered by the Apple Warranty Program) but Apple said they could only put in the HTS541616J9SA00 drive, otherwise I would need to pay the entire price of a different hard drive of my choice.
After doing some research on the internet, the Hitachi HTS541616J9SA00 seems to be a good hard drive, no known issues of premature breakdowns.
I have used many Apple and Windows notebooks since 1995 and never experienced a drive crashing after less than one year. Now I have repeated drive crashs in the same Apple notebook.
Since the drive model seems to be OK, I really have a suspicion of a hardware bug in the MacBook.

User Tip: MBPr + USB issue and how to recover hard drives.

I did want to share this in case someone runs into this problem:
Since I bought this MPBr in June it has "destroyed" my external USB drives on at least 7 ocassions. By "destroyed" I mean this: Either during a "Wake up failure" or ususally after reboot the drives suddenly were not "recognized" and I would get that dreaded "Initialize, Eject or Ignore" screen we all fear. When it happened and I tried all the standard repair tools (TechTool Pro, Disk Warrior, Data Rescue, etc) most often I ended up wiping the drives since they didn't hold much data, the important stuff safely away inside firewire drives not connected to the MPRr.
That was until last week.
A fact checklist:
All the drives were from different makers and different ages (some brand new, some 1-2 years old). Made no difference.
The drives were both powered and unpowered. Made no difference.
The "destruction" would happen either when the computer went to sleep or simply when trying to use a USB hub.
I tried 5 different USB hub models. All of them did the same thing.
To avoid issues, I was reduced to NOT using USB hubs (or even trying) and unplugging EVERYTHING at the end of the day.
An assistant who was not aware of these problems made the horrible mistake of getting a USB hub and pluging these drives which now held VERY IMPORTANT information, some backed up, some which it had not been backed up yet. Almost INSTANTLY all the drives went bad: Unrecognized. Now, I really couldn't get mad at her because - let's be honest- using a USB hub is not "up there" in the scale of "dangeorus activities" in the computing the world, but it left me 3 dead large size USB drives..And they all had the same problem:
When plugged in, the system would simply not recognize them.
Pluging them into an older mac or another mac had the same response.
In a few occassions the drives would actually appear briefly and disappear again. We are talking seconds here.
NONE of the repair tools could fix them: TechTool Pro, Disk Warrior and fdsk were helpless.
Data Rescue could actually see the partitions greyed out but could not access them
After some digging around it seems whatever is happening with MBPr's USB/Mac OSX/Firmaware is destroying the PARTITION TABLES of USB drives. The data is still there, the system simply cannot access it.
Eventually I came up with the solution which involves recovering the partition tables via Terminal using an open source program TestDisk. The name of "Stellar Phoenix Recovery" software also popped into from time to time (which I do remember from the old days), but I could not find an actual example of a succesful recovery.
What you will need:
This program runs in the Terminal with a very basic interface that uses arrow keys, enter and a few letters. That said, if you have never used Terminal or are not familiar with the terminology I suggest you find someone who does.
Get the software here: TestDisk - http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/TestDisk If everything goes well, this will be the one time you will truly be motivated to donate some cash. The euphory alone will do it. I know it for me, that's for sure.
For my recovery I followed this step-by-step tutorial by Perro Hunter, but BE AWARE that it was written at an earlier date as apparently some of the features that the tutorial mentions as "not working yet" are now.
http://perrohunter.com/repair-a-mac-os-x-hfs-partition-table/
In my case I did not need to go past step 7, which is good because the warning it gives is pretty bone-chilling. In my case the software was able to write the recovered partition tables by itself and then when I restarted....the drives were there. DO NOT IGNORE THE BACK UP AND LOG INSTRUCTIONS. EVER.
Keep in mind that my drives were formatted as Mac OS X HFS+ / GUID partitions. I have no idea how it will work with other types of formatting. The process itself is very fast. if IN DOUBT, just quit terminal and start over (I did twice until I finally figure out what I was doing). Also, take screen shots as you move along the steps it helps.
Needless to say, after recovery use Disk Utility, Disk Warrior or TechTool Pro to get the drives back in shape, and if possible, back up everything and wipe them clean which is what I did just to be sure.
I hope that helps somebody and good luck to you in the process.

Someone tried to follow this information and perro hunter's blog was not loading.
3rdLOF made a version on pastedbin here:
http://pastebin.com/Jb9NfxZf
In case anyone needs it
I tried posting this as a User Tip, won't let me.

Porsche Design External Hard Drive for Time Machine back-up

This is what I am looking to buy for my back up: http://www.amazon.com/LaCie-Porsche-Design-External-9000296/dp/B008SA69L8/ref=sr _1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1393398362&sr=1-10&keywords=porsche+design.
But this is not available on online Apple Store. Only "desktop drives" are available. What is the difference between "desktop drive" and "external drive?"
Also, how do these Porsche Design hard drives rank in terms of reliability and longevity?
Do I need to install LaCie software to use this hard drive for back-up? Or is it possible to directly use Time Machine to use this hard drive for back-up?
Lastly, how does password protection work? Does the LaCie software have to be installed to take advantage of this?

mrq0604 wrote:
How about 3.5" Seagate drives? Are they any better in terms of quality?
Currently the promotional price for 3.0 TB Porsche Design "external drive" is $129 (normally $169). Is this a good deal? And the 3 TB "desktop drive" is $153. Why would they sell thr same product under 2 different names and with different prices? What does "external drive" offer for $16 more? As far I know, they look the same...
How about 3.5" Seagate drives?
Absolutely not, no.
All HD can and do crash and fail, its just statistical sampling in total (see graph above)
If you want the most reliable 3.5" HD, get a 2TB Toshiba, which is actually made by Hitachi (confused yet?)
Hitachi sold their 3.5" division to Toshiba (forced to actually), so a Toshiba 3.5" is really a very well built reliable Hitachi 3.5"
On sale, 2TB Toshiba 3.5" (really Hitachi made) only $88
http://www.amazon.com/Toshiba-Canvio-Desktop-External-HDWC120XK3J1/dp/B008DW96NY /ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1393443687&sr=8-10&keywords=toshiba+2tb
There is actually a non-commercial HD more reliable than this, which is the WD "black" drives, the server grade drives, but theyre not consumer grade
theyre very expensive, and made for server farms.
here:
http://www.amazon.com/Western-Digital-Cache-Desktop-WD2003FZEX/dp/B00FJRS628/ref =sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1393443945&sr=8-2&keywords=wd+black
As said no such thing as Porsche, its Seagate . Porsche is just the name on the enclosure.
Why sell under 2 diff. names?   Actually they do it under 5 DIFFERENT NAMES , Hitachi does the same, so does WD
As I said, there are only 4 HD makers on earth.    The many names etc is to fill up shelf space with diff. names such as Porsche , LaCie etc etc.
Id avoid most of the 3TB and certainly the 4TB drives for at least maybe another half year or so.
Large external hard drives are great! Large external hard drives are horrible
It is a common premise that people are overjoyed at the dropping prices per terabyte on external hard drives, and the first thing that enters most peoples minds is "great, I can put all my stuff on one drive,... all of it!" However considerations need to be made in creating a giant single choke point for not mere data loss, but seriously large data loss. If there is at the very least yet another redundant copy, this is fine, otherwise do not consider it whatsoever. Some 3TB and 4TB drives of all mfg. have, at the time of this writing, reliability concerns currently and best recommendation is staying at 2TB drives or less.
Advantages and disadvantages of larger 3TB and 4TB external drives must be weighed
Hard Drive Warning (all makes and models)
Ironically but logical, new hard drives are far more fragile than one that has been working for several months or a couple years. So beware in your thinking that a new hard drive translates into “extremely reliable”!
Hard drives suffer from high rates of what has been termed "infant mortality". Essentially this means new drives have their highest likelihood of failing in the first few months of usage. This is because of very minor manufacturing defects or HD platter balancing, or head and armature geometry being less than perfect; and this is not immediately obvious and can quickly manifest itself once the drive is put to work.
Hard drives that survive the first few months of use without failing are likely to remain healthy for a number of years.
Generally HD are highly prone to death or corruption for a few months, then work fine for a few years, then spike in mortality starting at 3-4 years and certainly should be considered end-of-life at 5-7+ years even if still working well. Drives written to once and stored away have the highest risk of data corruption due to not being read/written to on a regular basis. Rotate older working HD into low-risk use.
The implication of this is that you should not trust a new hard drive completely (really never completely!) until it has been working perfectly for several months.
Given the second law of thermodynamics, any and all current mfg. HD will, under perfect storage conditions tend themselves to depolarization and a point will be reached, even if the HD mechanism is perfect, that the ferromagnetic read/write surface of the platter inside the HD will entropy to the point of no viable return for data extraction. HD life varies, but barring mechanical failure, 3-8 years typically.
Hard drive failure and handling
The air cushion of air between the platter surface and the head is microscopic, as small as 3 nanometers, meaning bumps, jarring while in operation can cause head crash, scraping off magnetic particles causing internal havoc to the write surface and throwing particles thru the hard drive.
Hard drives are fragile in general, regardless, ... in specific while running hard drives are extremely fragile.
PDF: Bare hard drive handling generic instructions
hard drive moving parts
Some of the common reasons for hard drives to fail:
Infant mortality (due to mfg. defect / build tolerances)
Bad parking   (head impact)
Sudden impact   (hard drive jarred during operation, heads can bounce)
Electrical surge   (fries the controller board, possibly also causing heads to write the wrong data)
Bearing / Motor failure   (spindle bearings or motors wear during any and all use, eventually leading to HD failure)
Board failure   (controller board failure on bottom of HD)
Bad Sectors   (magnetic areas of the platter may become faulty)
General hard drive failure

I need to move the iTunes library to an External Hard Drive to free up space on iMac. Need suggestions on type of External Hard Drive to use. A Multimedia Hard Drive like LaCie LaCinema Classic HD Multimedia Hard Drive OR a Large Desktop Hard Drive?

I need to move an iTunes library to an External Hard Drive to free up space on iMac. I Need suggestions on type of External Hard Drive to use. Should you use a Multimedia Hard Drive like LaCie LaCinema Classic HD Multimedia Hard Drive OR a standard Large Desktop Hard Drive like Western Digital/Seagate/LaCie?

There is no benefit to the multi-media feature on the first drive you mentioned. If you are going to look at differences between certain drives, I'd look at the differences in reliability first.

External hard drive causing finder to crash

The problem in a nutshell:
On 2 different occasions today, trying to open the hard drive folder (after not accessing the EHD for a couple hours) caused Finder to crash and my Macbook hung on shutdown - I had to unplug the USB hub or do a forced manual shutdown. When restarting the computer, my computer couldn't read the hard drive - I did find a way to fix that (see details below).
I don't know why this is happening in the first place or whether this indicates a bigger problem. Thus far, all data on these drives is backed up elsewhere, but I want these drives to be my backup (aside from DVD hard copies, of course). If anyone knows what may be causing this problem, I'd appreciate your help, thanks!
My system:
I have an early 2008 Macbook with OSX 10.6.8 and 4GB RAM.
Last week I bought two identical Hitachi DeskPro 3TB USB hard drives -- call them External HD A & B --, connected to my Macbook via a USB hub that has its own power source. The EHDs have their own power sources as well. All power sources are plugged into surge-protected power strips. (The EHD B is a cloned copy of the EHD A using backup software).
Each EHD is divided into 3 partitions.
In System Preferences, I did NOT choose to have the hard drive(s) go to sleep whereever possible.
Both EHDs run cool - I've never seen any sign of overheating.
Details of What Happened:
Both times, I was actively using my computer but hadn't accessed the EHD for a couple hours or so. Both times, only EHD A was present in the Finder. (EHD B was physically plugged in, but ejected from Finder, as is my ususal practice.)
Upon restart, I got a message that "a drive plugged into this computer cannot be read", giving me the option to Initialize, Ignore, or Eject. Restarting my Macbook (with one or both EHDs connected) didn't make a difference.
Neither drive showed up in Disk Utility, but they both showed up in System Profiler under USB, albeit with much fewer details than when the drives are showing up normally. The scanner attached to the USB hub has worked just fine.
Both times, the solution to the undetectable EHD problem was to plug in the drive's power source directly into the wall socket and the drive would promptly show up on my desktop. (It doesn't matter whether I plugged the USB directly into my Macbook or kept it plugged into the USB hub.) Once I do that, I can eject the drive, plug it back into the power strip, and it works just fine. I verified the drives in Disk Utility both times and they tested ok.

I'm replying to my own post here since it's far to late to update the original message: To update: after more than 6 months, I can verify that the solution given at bottom of my original post (plugging the drive directly into a wall socket) has worked every time, both in the US and in Asia. I have no idea why this is so, just that it works.

Top Questions for HERE Maps & Drive & Transit

This thread is to share some of the common issues that are being raised in relation to the HERE Maps, HERE Drive and HERE Transit releases.
Currently split in to the following sections:
HERE Maps for Windows Phone
HERE Drive for Windows Phone
HERE Transit for Windows Phone
Nokia Maps & Drive for Symbian
HERE Maps for Windows Phone
Can I sync my Maps favourites from my Symbian phone to my Windows Phone?
Yes. Just sync the favourites on your Symbian phone with here.com. See the user guide of your Symbian phone for info on how to do this.
Your favourites in here.com are automatically synced with your Windows Phone, if you're signed in to your Nokia account with your phone.
Does HERE Maps work offline?
Yes, on Windows Phone 8 devices HERE Maps can be used also in offline mode.
With Nokia Maps on the Windows Phone 7 devices you need an online connection. In these devices the map data is streamed on as needed basis and it is not cached.
Can I start Drive navigation from HERE Maps in my Nokia Lumia phone?
Yes, on Windows Phone 8 devices you can start drive navigation from HERE Maps.
On Windows Phone 7 devices you need to go to the Nokia Drive application to start the navigation.
Why can't HERE Maps find my location?
Check that you've allowed HERE Maps and your phone to find your location.
In HERE Maps
Go to Settings in the HERE Maps app and turn on Use your location
In your phone settings
In your phone's main menu, tap Settings > location > on.
Things that can affect your GPS signal may include: being indoors, tall buildings, poor weather and some car windscreens. You'll also get a better fix on your location if you've got a data connection.
HERE Drive for Windows Phone
Can I use HERE Drive without a data connection?
Yes. To use HERE Drive offline, tap Settings and choose Connection. You can then toggle between offline and online.
Search results might be limited in offline mode. To be able to navigate offline, you need to download a map to your phone.
What is the difference between HERE Maps and HERE Drive?
HERE Drive is an application for voice-guided turn-by-turn driving navigation. HERE Maps is a map application which shows your current position and interesting places around you. You can also plan routes in HERE Maps but the app will launch HERE Drive for turn-by-turn navigation
What's the difference between HERE Drive and HERE Drive+?
HERE Drive offers turn-by-turn navigation in a single country or area, depending on the country of your SIM. Worldwide navigation is possible by purchasing an upgrade.
HERE Drive+ is a premium app that comes with worldwide turn-by-turn navigation from the start. You can use it with or without a SIM.
Users of HERE Drive can buy an upgrade to HERE Drive+ through the Windows Phone Store.
HERE Transit for Windows Phone
How do I install the HERE Transit application in my Windows Phone?
Download and install HERE Transit from Microsoft Store. Start Store in your phone and search for HERE Transit or browse in Nokia collection.
In Windows Phone 7 devices the corresponding app is Nokia Transport and it can be installed from Marketplace.
Why can't HERE Transit find my route?
If you're having trouble getting a route:
Make sure the date, time and time zone on your phone are set properly.
Check that you've got a data connection.
A point in your route might be in a region where no transport info is available.
The route is too long. HERE Transit is designed for use with local city public transport, not national or international transport.
Can I save routes in HERE Transit?
You can pin a journey from your current location as a tile to your Windows Phone start screen.
Select the options icon at the bottom of the screen, and then the pin icon.
Nokia Maps & Drive for Symbian
How do I install Maps 3.09 in my phone?
Maps 3.09 is available for compatible devices as part of the Nokia Maps Suite 2.0 bundle. Installing Nokia Maps Suite 2.0 will install the following applications in your phone:
Nokia Maps 3.09
Drive
Places widget
Public Transport v2
Weather (not available in China)
Guides
Check in (only available in China)
Map Loader
You can install Nokia Maps Suite on your phone through one of the channels below:
SW Update menu on your phone
Nokia Suite (select Software updates > Applications available)
Nokia Store (search for Nokia Maps Suite 2.0)
When installing via SW Update menu or from Nokia Store, it is recommended to use a Wi-Fi connection or a cellular connection with data plan because a large amount of data will be transferred during the installation. Note that the installation may take a while to complete.
After the installation you can launch the applications from the phone menu. You can add the application widgets also on the home screen (Map Apps, Places nearby).
Can Nokia Maps be used in offline mode to avoid data costs?
Maps can be used offline to avoid data charges, however the following will not be available in Offline Mode:
View Satellite maps
View Terrain maps
Search the latest address/POI database
Real-time Traffic and Safety updates
Share your status, photos and location to your Facebook profile (Maps 3.03 and later)
Get Weather forecasts
See local event info from WCities (Maps 3.03 and later)
Access Lonely Planet city guides (Maps 3.03 and later)
Access the Michelin restaurant guide (Maps 3.03 and later)
Synchronize your locations with Nokia Maps on the internet
You can switch between Online and Offline mode by going to the Maps Settings and
Select Internet or General
Select Connection or Go Online at Start-up
Please Note: Switching between Online and Offline mode in Maps will not prevent data charges through the user of Positioning settings such as AGPS and WiFi/Network positioning. These will need to be turned off in the Positioning Settings on your phone. Please see your phone manual for more information.
How do I know if there is an update available for the map data in Nokia Maps 3.x?
You can check if your device has the latest compatible Map data simply by connecting your device to a PC running Nokia Suite and selecting View > Go To > Maps.
If you are using Mac, download Map Loader for Mac and then check if there's an available update for Map data (applies only for Maps 3.04 and older, version 3.06 and later not supporting Map Loader for Mac).
With Maps 3.06 and later you can check the availability of map data updates and do the update over Wi-Fi (WLAN) connection by selecting:
Maps 3.06: Update > Check for updates.
Maps 3.08 and later: Map Loader > Check for updates.
How can I start Drive navigation in Maps 3.08 (and later)?
There is an icon for the Drive application available on your phone's home screen.
You can also start drive navigation from Maps:
1. Search for the destination.
2. Select the place on the map and its information area at the top of the screen.
3. Select Navigate, and Drive here.
==========================================
Edit history
27.1.2010: N97 support added after instructions from cbidlake.
5.2.2010: FAQ about fixing crash issues added after instructions from cbidlake.
15.4.2010: added E66, E71, N86.
4.5.2010: added 6720.
7.1.2011: Major revision undertaken by MichaelS to incorporate data on Ovi Maps 3.04 and 3.06
26.6.2012 Updated latest Maps, Drive and Transport status (pj98)
24.9.2013:: HERE updates (pj98)
Although i work for Nokia, my opinions are my own!
Got a Maps query? Check our Maps FAQ's

Sorry, I'd like to unresolve this. The workaround mentioned is not a solution.
I travel to loads of places by motorcycle, and going off the beaten track is wonderful. Since I upgraded My E6-00 and C7-00 to a Lumia 920, I'm back to allowing the SatNav (phone) to decide where I go. Boring dual carriageways and bypasses are now my natural habitat - bah humbug. Afterall, the phone is in my pocket (safe from weather), headphones in my helmet - I can't constantly look at a map. Having multiple 'favourites' and planning from one to the next isn't workable. Fair enough the Lumia 920 is usable with gloves on (major plus for a biker, come on you marketing people!) but I don't fancy re-routing all the time by the side of a road.
I'm also planning a charity cycle ride over 100s of miles this Summer, and while that can be done in BikeRouteToaster, Google Maps etc, there is no import function into 'HERE' that I can see. It's impossible to plan a route on the device itself. Yes it can route walker (I can't seem to get turn by turn working for that, but nevermind), public transport and car, I have an option to avoid motorways etc, but cycle route planning needs consideration for height metres, unpaved/paved roads (Google StreetView etc used a lot to find a Sustrans route is actually unfit for road bikes) etc. So.. Importing a route planned elsewhere (gpx, kml or something) would be a real alternative, or a workaround. Asking the device to do its own planning from one point to another really isn't workable.
Please make the Nokia's USP an actual USP again?

Less then 2 month oldThinkpad Yoga Hard Drive crash, over a month for new HD to be sent out

My Daughter's thinkpad yoga HD crashed on friday. Called technical support and were told a new HD and technician would be delivered on Monday. Monday came and wasn't delivered, called back and was told it would be here in 3 days. Called back today and have been told 11/28 at this point. Has anyone else experienced this issue? We bought the warrenty and now it is not being honored. She is a freshman in college and can't do until the 28th without here computer. They refuse to send a new laptop. This is some of the worst customer service I have ever experienced.

Same for me, MacBook bought in December 2006 in Germany with 2 GHz Processor, 2 GB of RAM and 160 GB hard drive,
first drive crashed in december 2007, second drive just crashed in november 2008,
both drives were the Hitachi HTS541616J9SA00
now the replaced drive is again a Hitachi HTS541616J9SA00
I asked the Apple Service Center to put in a drive of another brand (I would pay the difference to the drive covered by the Apple Warranty Program) but Apple said they could only put in the HTS541616J9SA00 drive, otherwise I would need to pay the entire price of a different hard drive of my choice.
After doing some research on the internet, the Hitachi HTS541616J9SA00 seems to be a good hard drive, no known issues of premature breakdowns.
I have used many Apple and Windows notebooks since 1995 and never experienced a drive crashing after less than one year. Now I have repeated drive crashs in the same Apple notebook.
Since the drive model seems to be OK, I really have a suspicion of a hardware bug in the MacBook.

HERE Drive stops nav during lockscreen after 20 Mi...

There is a "similar" post regarding HERE Drive not working AFTER being in the background... however I am having a slightly different issue.
When I am using HERE Drive and I lock the screen on my Lumia 520 (running Amber GDR2) the HERE navigation will work for about 15-20 minutes and then all of a sudden it just stops navigating and giving directions. If I unlock the phone HERE will re-calculate and start navigating again, lock the screen and 15-20 minutes later... stops navigating again.
I've tried disabling the "Battery saver" feature in HERE Drive with no improvement, and it doesn't make a difference if HERE Drive is in the Background while the screen is locked or in the "foreground" while the screen is locked in either case 15-20 minutes into a drive it will just stop navigating.
HERE Drive is ALMOST the perfect solution because when using offline maps and running under lockscreen I only use about 1-2% of the battery every 20-30 minutes. But if the application is going to just stop functioning under lockscreen then there is no value in that feature.
Anyone have any ideas as to what may be causing this or any advise on a fix/workaround?

When reading my report, I forgot to mention how the external hard drive is formatted :
Hard Drive FW/USB:
Manufacturer: LaCie
Model: 0x0
GUID: 0xD04B78070AD64B
Maximum Speed: Up to 400 Mb/sec
Connection Speed: Up to 400 Mb/sec
Sub-units:
Hard Drive FW/USB Unit:
Unit Software Version: 0x10483
Unit Spec ID: 0x609E
Firmware Revision: 0x110
Product Revision Level:
Sub-units:
Hard Drive FW/USB SBP-LUN:
Capacity: 298.09 GB
Removable Media: Yes
BSD Name: disk1
Mac OS 9 Drivers: No
Partition Map Type: APM (Apple Partition Map)
S.M.A.R.T. status: Not Supported
Volumes:
Aristotle:
Capacity: 297.97 GB
Available: 164.85 GB
Writable: Yes
File System: Journaled HFS+
BSD Name: disk1s3
Mount Point: /Volumes/Aristotle
Raf

Difference in CD drives?

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