Different Temperatures - which one is right?
I have started trying Core Temp as a replacement to CoreCenter. The thing is Core Temp gives temperatures 2-3C below what CoreCenter shows, which I dont't mind too much. Anyway, when I run Stress CPU the temp deference increases, as shown here.
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k276/seven_of_nine13/temps.jpg
Any ideas why this 7C difference (sometimes more) happens and which one is right? System temperature is showing right as I have other temp probes floating about. Spec below, except I now have a FX-55 (ClawHammer). Got it free :D
Quote from: qyx on 28-November-06, 15:10:10
I don't understand how core temps could drop 5 degrees c. while temp of surrounding area remains the same. Same loads, volts etc. as before I changed case fans (4x80 mm now and 2x120 before) and case (aluminium now, steel before).
That's what I'm wondering. I know my temps have been higher with the FX-55, but still doesn't explain how the core can be cooler. As for overall temps I'm planing on lapping the CPU and heatsink over the Christmas holidays (exams have to be done first ), as I think the heat spreader on the CPU is a little higher around the edges.
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3 Different Backups; Which one is right?
Hello everyone,
I have a question about backup systems. I looked around the forums and saw a couple that were almost the same question but weren't, so I am going to ask mine. I am not sure if my questions make a difference with the answers though.
I just bought a Lenovo G560. As you know, it came with OneKey which is the button on the key board. It also has Windows Backup (Windows 7). But, I also went out and bought a portable backup hard drive (Hitachi) that came with its own backup software.
So my question is which one do I use??? I will explain what I want to do, then my thoughts on each option, and I am hoping someone here could give me solid advice. I already had a system crash once and lost everything, so I don't want to start over again.
(What I would like to do)
I would like to have two different types of back up completed to my external hard drive:
1. Would be a system image of everything as it is on my laptop. In case of a major failure, I can simply start fresh from the last backup image and (for the most part) not skip a beat. This backup would probably be done once every two weeks or maybe once a month.
2. I would also like to have a traditional backup of everything in my personal folder which would basically be just my files i.e. pictures, music, documents, etc. This way in case I delete 1 or 2 files by accident I can go into my external hard drive and pull those files back over. This backup would probably be done 1 to 2 times a week.
(My Thoughts)
OneKey: I like the idea of the OneKey software because that function is built into the laptop with a dedicated button. But from what I saw so far, this software can't be set up to do both types of backup at the same time. But, I might be wrong on this...
Windows: A part of me thinks I should let Windows conduct its own backup because Windows should know what Windows need to run in case of a major failure, and this would be the easiest for me. From what I have read, Windows can do two different types of backup at one time, but it is vvvvveeeeerrrrryyyy slow, and a lot of times the second scheduled backup will attempt to start before the first one is finished which causes major problems.
Hitachi: The external hard drive came with its own backup software installed that it uses to manage backups. This one requires you to install yet another program onto the laptop (which is on top of the 2 already there OneKey & Windows). It seems simple enough to use, but I am not sure if it can do two different types of backup.
A part of me thinks if I were to use OneKey or Windows I could basically format the external hard drive and then I will have a completely empty drive for backups since I would get rid of the pre installed software.
Or, I could be completely wrong on all three of these, and need to use some other backup software to do what I want.
I need to tell you that I am thinking of playing with a kernel of Linux that would be installed in a separate area on my laptop. I would like for the backup software to be able to include this in its backups (just the image type) since I am not planning on moving any personal information/files over to that OS just yet. Once I find a version of Linux I like, I would probably switch to that for full time use. So I think that would be important in the selection process of backup software.
I know this is a big question, but I am hoping someone here can point me in the right direction. I am not very familiar with backup software. I had another external hard drive once before, but that one only did the My Documents folder, and there was a couple times I had to start fresh with Windows because I didn't have a system image. So I am hoping to not go through that again.
Thanks for all of your thoughts.gigrosser, welcome to the forum,
If I understand your intentions correctly I think your first priority is to create a set of recovery discs as suggested by yigit, a good reason for this will become clear later.
As you are going to be playing with Linux you will need an imaging software which is capable of creating a base image and incremental images of the complete hard drive including the boot sectors, I personally don't see either One Key or Windows Backup being the optimal tools for achieving this.
As I don't know which software came supplied with your Hitachi drive, I'm can't rule it out as being a suitable tool for the job which I would approach as follows;
Once you have created recovery discs and installed your suitable imaging software you also need to be sure you create rescue media for the imaging software in order to be able to access your image backups should they be required.
Assuming you have your hard drive configured with Linux et al you should then create a base image with the imaging software to your external hard drive. After it's completed add a "test folder" to your desktop and then shut the system down.
Now's the time to test your image and rescue media by simply restoring the image you have just created; if the "test folder" isn't there it's worked, if it's still there something hasn't worked and needs a re-think. Worst case and absolutely nothing works is the time to use the recovery discs you created to set your system back to factory and start reconsidering the whole concept again That's why the recovery discs are important.
Assuming that everything ran successfully it's time to add a few files, 500MB should suffice, in order to run an incremental image backup and of course to recover to that incremental backup. If everything works you have the first part of your problem solved.
Now to the second part; there's a windows tool which seems to have got a bit forgotten over the years, have you considered using windows Briefcase? Just search Windows help to find out all about how it could help you.
However the second part may be superfluous; - "in case I delete 1 or 2 files by accident" - I don't know how much data you're going to be adding / changing / deleting on a daily basis, but running incremental image backups shouldn't normally take very long, you'll find out the answer to this when running your tests. A good imaging software will allow you to extract single files from any backup you have made which in effect negates the requirement for a second solution.
Hope I've explained my thoughts clearly enough, if not let me know.
Edit; to answer "which one is right?" is maybe none, maybe all - the right one is the one that works even if it's the fifth choice
Regards
Andy ______________________________________
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PepperonI blog -
Please help! I have a Apple MacBook Pro "Core i7" 2.8 13" Late 2011. i want to upgrade its RAM from 4GB to 16GB. But OWC sells two kinds of RAM, the DDR3 and the DDR3L.What is the different and which one would work better for my mac. Thanks!!!
I don't see any DDR3L on the page for the RAM that would fit your model -> http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Apple_MacBook_MacBook_Pro/Upgrade/DDR3_133 3MHz_SDRAM.
But the answer is that it doesn't really matter - just make certain to get 1333MHz.
Good luck,
Clinton
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WRT110 vs. WRT54G2 - which one is right for me?
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castor wrote:
Try this link to enable file sharing on the network ...
Hey, thanks for the help but that is not our issue. We just don't share files from computer to computer, we just use the router to give all computers internet access. -
Which one is right? The colour picker or the info panel?
Try this one out at home kids:
Set your colour picker to Greyscale and dial 25% K into your foreground colour swatch.
Now, in a new, RGB document, fill that document with your foreground colour.
Now open the Info palette, set one of your readouts to "Greyscale" and enjoy seeing it read 31% K.
Uh.
WTF?
My RGB readout reads 192 across all channels, which is correct: 192 / 256 = 75% (additive) = 25% (subtractive)
This probably has something to do with colour management, but could someone A) explain to me what is happening, and B) tell me how to set it so I can get mathematically predictable results?D Fosse wrote:
I'm not trying to argue...well, I am - but if you could explain precisely what you're after I'm sure it's doable.
Dag, did you go through the exact sequence he put up in the first post?
The issue is that we seem to be able to set the absolute numbers for RGB in the COLOR panel (made visible through the Window - Color) menu via choosing Grayscale and a %K value - in this case 25% sets color (192, 192, 192). It sets these values no matter what profile the document is using.
When that color is used on any old document, the profile is involved with reading back the number in the %K portion of the info panel.
No profile is involved with setting the number (because this operation doesn't involve a document), a profile IS involved with reading the number from a document. That difference is at the root of the issue Tom is sensing, I think.
My comment about Photoshop being developed on a Mac... Note that with a profile carrying gamma 1.8, Photoshop DOES make the numbers match., probably owing to a hard-coded gamma correction in the logic of the info panel. It might be more reasonable for it to just use the gamma derived from the profile, or just do a conversion to linear space first, but then that would change the way Photoshop works, and Adobe appears to have a policy of "keep it very consistent with past releases, so everything still works".
-Noel -
Inbox vs. Gmail 5.0: Which one is the right fit for you?
Inbox vs. Gmail 5.0: Which one is right for you? | PCWorld
I would strongly suggest you go the apple store and have them explain to you what exactly is on every DVD they sent you. those serial number won't tell anything to any of us here.
but in general, a leopard install disk is very easy to spot if you open it in finder. there will be an icon with a leopard logo which looks like this
!http://img216.imageshack.us/img216/5378/leopardlogo.jpg!
and caption "install os x". -
http://www.amdcompare.com/us-en/desktop/details.aspx?opn=ADV4400DAA6CD
since cpu temperature is important in cpu o/c (dooh), i dont know which one is important the cpu temp or cpu core temp?
lets take the example from amd: 49-71c? what does it mean? is 49 the max or 71 is the max? is that the max for cpu or cpu core?
im asking this because my cpu and core temps are different with 10C. so at full load my cores go up to 48C, but my cpu temps stays max at 36C.......i would to know i still have room for o/c, cuz my core temp a bit high, but if its the cpu temp that matters then im blasting it. those temps are from 2.6ghz 1.4 vcore 100% stable o/c.
thanxQuote from: Svenomous on 13-November-06, 08:17:10
Mine runs hotter on one core too, same for many other people as well, I'm pretty sure it's normal and has nothing to do with the paste application. I don't get the 49-71c thing either 22c max range?, but I prefer to play it safe with a very expensive chip and not let the "core" reading get too high.
i dont quite understand what youmean by 22C, is that your temps?
btw. tigerdirect screwed up. uctually its purolator. let me tell the story. my friend chose a system for his car pc and ordered it from tigerdirect, but the guy from purolator left the package at his front door with no siggy. so my friend called up tiger and acted like he didnt recieve nothing, so tiger asked puro for a siggy and there was none, so they sent another 4400+ and a biostar tforce. so ended up with 2 of each. i helped him build his car pc and he sold the brand new 4400+ for 70 bucks.
so i dont really care if it fries, i dont want it to but if it happens it not a big deal. but it wouldve been if i paid the 300$ + for it so i do get your point. -
How can I correct for 2 different color temperatures in one image?
Hi,
In indoor architectural photography one may encounter mixed color temperatures in one image. If one could use gels and lamps to replace incoming natural daylight and force a uniform color temperature (for instance tungsten) then the problem would go away. Yet, sometimes this is not possible or practical and I was exploring what could be accomplished within Photoshop. Here is my proposal ( or beginning of it):
shoot RAW
generate 2 versions of the image, each corrected for one of the color temperatures present (say WB dropper in "should be neutral" area where daylight dominates and another WB dropper in "should be neutral" area where tungsten dominates)
open them in Photoshop and move one of them as a layer on top of the other version
Try to blend the two layers
in one example, I used Hue blending mode and the photo fixed itself!! However this is not generalizable to other images
I also tried BlendIf for harder images but with no success
I presume selection is then a must which brings up the question:HOW CAN I SELECT DEPENDING ON COLOR TEMPERATURE? I mean, the layer where WB = daylight looks orange-casted in the areas where the main light source is tungsten, while the layer where WB = tungsten looks blue-casted in the areas lit mainly by sunlight. I must believe there should exist a best approach to select say the blue-casted areas or the orange-casted areas, and that approach should be simple if it somehow takes into consideration the predominant cast. I have tried Select Color Range but not very successfully. I just feel there must be a simpler way, taking advantage of the present casts.
Masks seem also useful
All feedback will be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
JuanIf you want to use multiple keepalives for a service, you must use a script. The alternative would be to create 2 content rules, and 2 sets of services, one for port 80 (or whatever) and one for port 443 (or whatever), and use http for one and ssl for the other.
Michael Voight
CSE -
Adobe Cloud has 2 different Muse programs.... how do I know which one is the newer better version?
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One Must program (Muse CC 2014.2) has a black background when working on it... it looks like other Adobe programs such as Photoshop.
The other one is light color (Muse CC) very similar to the black color Muse on functions.....
One of the difference I notice is that the light color Muse has a few widgets in the library, while the black background Muse seems to have an empty library
So... why are there 2 different Muse programs in my Adobe Cloud?Hi
The latest version of Muse is 2014.2, so you need to uninstall another version of Muse manually.
regarding the items in Library, you can add items in your library manually, as shown in this article
Adobe Muse Help | Organizing and reusing design elements using Library panel
Please let me know if you have any other query. -
I recently deleted many duplicate files. In the midst of it my Itunes songs are not in Itunes. They are in two different folders. One under 'Music' in my ID. And two under a MyMusic file in Documents. How do I know which one to import?
Thanks, this is not an ideal answer but probably the most sensible one in my case.
I will try it unless someone has a better suggestion, but I'll wait a bit as it will take me a few days anyway (I had actually tried to create a new smaller playlist or download by album, but at this stage the music app is not letting me queue a list of songs for download - I think I will have to disable and re-enable iTunes match which will probably delete all the songs).
I have to say I am not very impressed with Apple here - having an online backup of all your data and beeing able to restore it to a new device easily was a strong selling point of iCloud. For music, they are Definitly not delivering at the stage. -
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What is the easiest way to enter a calendar event on an iPhone in a time zone which is different to one in which one is at present? Can this synchronise with Outlook, which allows for time zones to be set manually for each event?
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Log out of your Cloud account... Restart your computer... Log in to your paid Cloud account
-Sign in help http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/policy-pricing/account-password-sign-faq.html
Cancel http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/policy-pricing/return-cancel-or-change-order.html
-or by telephone http://helpx.adobe.com/x-productkb/global/phone-support-orders.html
Ask for serial number http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1234635 has a FAQ link -
How I download a MP4 series of videolectures (that the seller has stored in Amazon S3 and has sent to my iPad email address--which is different from the one I use from the MacBookPro) from my iPad to my MacBookPro (so that I can the save them in iTunes and then synchronize some of the videolectures to the iPad?)
To set it up as POP you need to delete the account, reboot the phone by holding the HOME and SLEEP buttons at the same time until an Apple logo appears (about 10 seconds), then add it back following these instructions: Forcing creation of a POP or IMAP email account
I understand that you have used the same account for many years, but the technology is also changing constantly. Years ago the standard was POP (Post Office Protocol), which was designed at a time when it was inconceivable that anyone would access their email from more than one device. When people started using multiple devices, for the most part they wanted to see changes on one device mirrored on another. A new standard, IMAP (Internet Mail Access Protocol) was developed. With iMAP the master copy of all messages resides on a server, and multiple devices are kept in sync with the server. So if you delete a message from one device it is removed from the server, and then removed from all other devices when they next sync. This is the same way Microsoft Exchange works. Other benefits of IMAP include the ability to have multiple mail folders that are kept in sync across devices. In your case you could use this to create a separate folder for each family member, so they could move messages to their own folder and not clutter up the shared Inbox. Most computer mail readers can even automatically sort incoming mail into folders based on the contents of the message.
IMAP is considered a "higher level" standard than POP. When you create a mail account iOS devices query the server and ask what it supports; if it says it supports IMAP then the account is automatically configured for IMAP. So if you really want POP you must fool it, as described in the link above. In my experience Android devices default to the highest level protocol also, and I suspect newer Blackberries do (although it has been 15 years since I used a BB). -
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Other ways? Check the box? Call your carrier?
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