Digital Photo Quality Question...

I'm using a Cannon A550 (7.1MegaPixels) set on the highest quality and importing photos into iPhoto. The files on my computer are 3.1MB (3072x2304) when I look at the individual files. Does this sound right or am I loosing quality somewhere?
Thanks...

Nile36,
Sounds good to me, too. Do the math: 3072 X 2304 = 7,077,888 which is pretty close to 7.1 million.
Regards.

Similar Messages

Digital photo frame question

There is no specific thread for digital photo frames that I could see, so I'm posting here and if you want to move it, tha'ts fine...
I didn't buy this product at Best Buy, I bought it on Amazon and in retrospect I should have bought it at Best Buy. But you guys sell the same product and I have gotten some awesome help here before on other items, so I thought it might be worth asking you.
I bought a HP df1010p1 Digital Picture Frame, and after 4 months I am just getting a blank white screen on it. I've tried everything I can think of (I am tech savvy) and I can't get it to work. HP is totally giving me the run around on this even though it says in the book it has a year warranty.
I loved this frame and am wondering if it's even fixable, I would appreciate any input. It was pretty spendy and I hate to have to buy another one. It won't be an HP though, that's for sure. I was thinking of taking it apart and seeing if there was anything I could fix inside.
I have tried: different plugins, different media cards, making sure the cards work on my computer, obvuously turning it off and on a bunch of times, blowing the card slot out with air...
Any advice would be appreciated! and thanks in advance.
JD

Hello tweetybird53,
Thanks very much for purchasing the HP Digital Photo Frame. I regret that you are having some product and support challenges. Please email me with your HP case number or your product number, serial number and contact information so that we can get your issue resolved quickly.
The answer to the question, "Is there an HP service depot near where you live that you can take it there?" is no. Currently, customers can not drop off products at an HP service center. There is a process to follow that entails mailing in the product if it is coded for repair. In some cases, the defective product is simply replaced.
I look forward to assisting tweetybird53.
Regards,

I-movie verses I-photo quality questions

I am starting to learn i movie, and while creating a production i noticed that the slide show in i-photo looks beautiful as far as quality goes,but in i-movie the same photos lack the clarity i expect. are they two different beasts,or can i expect more from i-movie?
Also is there any school of thought on wether i-movie is up to the task for creating quality shows on an lcd projector,or should i be getting something else? i want the ultimate resolution show i can do,but honestly this movie stuff confuses me with its limitations. i am supplying i-movie with 6 meg jpg files which i gather is almost to much info for it.

Hello Donald,
You may want to have a look at a Slideshow software package from Boinx; it's called FotoMagico and you can download the software free of charge for a duration of 6 days. They recommend OSX 10.4 and preferably the latest "dual chip" system ! It took me quite some time to understand how the thing worked !!! The "help screen" is only basic; but you get good response from the "Support Team", although there can be some delays in the process.
Because of the limitations of my Computer, I was not able to project the results via a projector or even burn to DVD, but the image quality on my computer screen is superb; you dictate which resolution you want to end up with, including the 16.9 format 1920 x 1080. To modify an image to the format you want is child play. The Audio side has me still puzzled as to how to trim the sound to fit a sequence in a smooth way; it is certainly not to the level in terms of facility and flexibility in use, of that in iMovie.
I think you'll need to spend a fair bit of money for a good projector, probably DLP rather than LCD. I've seen some A/V 1024 x 768 which looked pretty good, but the projector was part of a fixed professional installation.
Keep in mind though that you still can't beat the quality of top quality, sharp slides, projected in the conventional way with top quality optics. On the other hand, video projectors can throw a lot of light onto the screen !
I think you and I are probably demanding a level of quality in video projection which is not quite as yet readily available at a reasonnable price; looking at the latest Sony top of the range porojector, it's on the way, but too expensive for me !
Good luck
jcr
eMac - G4 Mac OS X (10.3.7) 768 MB SDRAM

Photo Quality Question

Right now I am taking pictures at 2592x1994 resolution and am wondering about developing. When I upload these pictures to the internet, facebook to be exact, the image looks grainy. I assume this is because compressing so many pixels into a smaller image hurts the quality, or maybe its just the file was too big and it had to be dumbed down. Anyway, I am wondering if when I develope these pictures they will look grainy like they do on facebook? Any tips, or what resolution do you use and how well does it work?

trey
What do you mean by 'develop'? Do you mean print?
How are you uploading to Facebook? Are you by any chance getting files from the Data folder in the iPhoto Library Folder? If so, then you are uploading the thumbnails that iPhoto uses to display. The correct way to upload is to select the pics in the iPhoto Window and go File -> Export and export to the desktop. You can then upload it from the desktop. After the upload is completed you can trash the file from the desktop - it's only a copy.
2592 x 1994 should give you good quality prints... depending on the size. What's the dpi at that size?
Regards
TD

Digital photo newbie question

hi,
just got my canon a520. when i connect the camera via usb cable to my G4 laptop, shouldn't it mount like a volume? iphoto will open and i can import the photos from there, but i prefer to drag only the ones i'm interested in. i don't see a way to do that in iphoto. it just says ready to import X photos, with 'X' being all the photos on the card.
thanks,
jill

Jill,
Have you used Canon's ImageBrowser program? I haven't played with it a lot, I'd rather use iPhoto, but it will allow you to selectively download photos. You can also load photos back onto the camera's card in case you want to take the card into a photo store to get prints made.
I have a PowerShot A75 and I assume the software is the same.
Karen

Photo quality follow-up questions

I read OT's response to a photo quality question and had some follow-ups I'd like to ask. Aside from cropping photos to 4:3 format does increasing the dpi of the photos have any effect in improving the quality of the final image in iDVD?
I'm making a dvd of family photos for my wife. Some were taken with a digital camera, some are photos scanned by myself and some are photos given to us by relatives that they scanned. I'm putting them together in iMovie, leaving them static - no pans or zooms, keeping the image size at a value of "1", setting the duration at 5 seconds and grouping them by subject using chapter markers so I can get around the 99 photos limitation. (I have over 1500 photos.)
I've already burned on dvd and was disappointed by the "jaggies" on most of the photos when viewed on my cinema display. Haven't looked at the dvd on a regular tv (CRT, not flat screen/digital). The images looked great in iMovie. It occurred to me that increasing the dpi - most were at 72 dpi - to 300 might improve this issue all other things remaining the same. I can do that easily in Photoshop, but was wondering if that would be a waster of time - especially if no improvement would be realized.
Thanks for any thoughts/help that anyone can offer.

iMovie HD 6.0.3 and iDVD 6.0.4
As far as I know - this will give max quality possibly when making a Video-DVD
resolution: 72dpi or 300dpi
depends on size
A small picture 200 x 300 pixels - will be worse than a 1200 x 1600 picture.
Resolution doesn't matter as I see it.
iMovie and/or iDVD will try to scale it to fit - and up or down-scaling
will not be done kindly.
Still using my 2016 × 1512 - usually give good result in iMovie
but if I Share to iDVD (iMovie HD6 6.0.3 or 4) - BAD RESULT
I just close the iMovie project
Drop the iMovie project icon (With a black star on it) into the iDVD application (menu window).
Result best possibly for a Video-DVD - DVD standard is the limit.
Else that determine the final quality on the DVD
DVD quality
1. iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
2. Video from
• FCE/P - Export out as full quality QuickTime.mov (not self-containing, no conversion)
• iMovie x-6 - Don't use ”Share/Export to iDVD” = destructive even to movie project and especially so
when the movie includes photos and the Ken Burns effect NOT is used. Instead just drop or import the iMovie movie project icon (with a Star on it) into iDVD theme window.
• iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not meant to go to iDVD. Go via Media Browser or rather use iMovie HD 6 from start.
3. I use Roxio Toast™ to make an as slow burn as possibly e.g. x4 or x1 (in iDVD’08 or 09 this can also be set)
This can also be done with Apple’s Disk Utilities application when burning from a DiskImage.
4. There has to be about or more than 25Gb free space on internal (start-up) hard disk. iDVD can't
use an external one as scratch disk (if it is not start-up disc). For SD-Video - if HD-material is used I guess that 4 to 5 times more would do.
5. I use Verbatim ( also recommended by many - Taiyo Yuden DVDs - I can’t get hold of it to test )
6. I use DVD-R (no +R or +/-RW) - DVD-R play’s on more and older DVD-Players
7. Keep NTSC to NTSC - or - PAL to PAL when going from iMovie to iDVD
(I use JES_Deinterlacer to keep frame per sec. same from editing to the Video-DVD result.)
8. Don’t burn more than three DVDs at a time - but let the laser cool off for a while before next batch.
iDVD quality also depends on.
• DVD is a standard in it self. It is Standard Definition Quality = Same as on old CRT-TV sets and can not
deliver anything better that this.
HD-DVD was a short-lived standard and it was only a few Toshiba DVD-players that could playback.
These DVDs could be made in DVD-Studio Pro. But they don’t playback on any other standard DVD-Player.
Blu-Ray / BD can be coded onto DVDs but limited in time to - about 20-30 minutes and then need
_ Roxio Toast™ 10 Pro incl. BD-component
_ BD disks and burner if full length movies are to be stored
_ BD-Player or PlayStation3 - to be able to playback
The BD-encoded DVDs can be play-backed IF Mac also have Roxio DVD-player tool. Not on any standard Mac or DVD-player
Full BD-disks needs a BD-player (in Mac) as they need blue-laser to be read. No red-laser can do this.
• HOW much free space is there on Your internal (start-up) hard disk. Go for approx. 25Gb.
less than 5Gb and Your result will most probably not play.
• How it was recorded - Tripod vs Handheld Camera. A stable picture will give a much higher quality
• Audio is most often more critical than picture. Bad audio and with dropouts usually results in a non-viewed movie.
• Use of Video-editor. iMovie’08 or 09 or 11 are not the tools for DVD-production. They discard every second line resulting in a close to VHS-tape quality.
iMovie 1 to HD6 and FinalCut any version delivers same quality as Camera record in = 100% to iDVD
• What kind of movie project You drop into it. MPEG4 seems to be a bad choice.
other strange formats are .avi, .wmv, .flash etc. Convert to streamingDV first
Also audio formats matters. I use only .aiff or from miniDV tape Camera 16-bit
strange formats often problematic are .avi, .wmv, audio from iTunes, .mp3 etc
Convert to .aiff first and use this in movie project
• What kind of standard - NTSC movie and NTSC DVD or PAL to PAL - no mix.
(If You need to change to do a NTSC DVD from PAL material let JES_Deinterlacer_3.2.2 do the conversion)
(Dropping a PAL movie into a NTSC iDVD project
(US) NTSC DVDs most often are playable in EU
(EU) PAL DVDs most often needs to be converted to play in US
UNLESS. They are play-backed by a Mac - then You need not to care
• What kind of DVDs You are using. I use Verbatim DVD-R (this brand AND no +R or +/-RW)
• How You encode and burn it. Two settings prior iDVD’08 or 09
Pro Quality (only in iDVD 08 & 09)
Best / High Quality (not always - most often not)
Best / High Performances (most often my choice before Pro Quality)
1. go to iDVD pref. menu and select tab far right and set burn speed to x1 (less errors = plays better) - only in iDVD 08 & 09
(x4 by some and may be even better)
2. Project info. Select Professional Encoding - only in iDVD 08 & 09.
Region codes.
iDVD - only burn Region = 0 - meaning - DVDs are playable everywhere
DVD Studio pro can set Region codes.
1 = US
2 = EU
unclemano wrote
What it turned out to be was the "quality" settings in iDVD. The total clip time was NOT over 2 hours or 4.7GB, yet iDVD created massive visual artifacts on the "professional quality" setting.
I switched the settings to "high quality" which solved the problem. According iDVD help, "high quality" determines the best bit rate for the clips you have.
I have NEVER seen iDVD do this before, especially when I was under the 2 hour and 4.7GB limits.
For anyone else, there seem to be 2 places in iDVD to set quality settings, the first is under "preferences" and the second under "project info." They do NOT seem to be linked (i.e. if you change one, the other is NOT changed). take care, Mario
to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
Try to break the process up into two stages
• Save as a DiskImage (calculating part)
• Burn from this .img file (burning stage)
To isolate where the problem starts.
Another thing is - Playing it onto a Blu-Ray Player. My PlayStation3 can play BD-disks but not all of my home made DVDs so to get this to work I
• Secure a minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk
• Use Verbatim DVD-R (absolutely no +/-RW)
• Set down burn speed to x4 - less burn errors = plays on more devices
• No other process running in background as - ScreenSaver, EnergySaver OR TIMEMACHINE etc
• and I'm very careful on what kind of video-codecs, audio file format and photo file formats I use
• and I consider the iDVD Bug - never go back to video-editor to change/up-date - if so Start a brand new iDVD project
• Chapters set as they should - NO one at very beginning and no one in any transition or within 2 sec from it
• Lay-out - Turn on TV-Safe area and keep everything buttons, titles etc WELL INSIDE not even touching it !
TO GET IT TO WORK SLIGHTLY FASTER
• Minimum of 25Gb free space on Start-Up hard disk
• No other programs running in BackGround e.g. Energy-Saver
• Don’t let HD spin down or be turned off (in Energy-Save)
• Move hard disks that are not to be used to Trash - To be disconnected/turned off
• Goto Spotlight and set the rest of them under Integrity (not to be scanned)
• Set screen-saver to a folder without any photo - then make an active corner (up right for me) and set
pointer to this - turns on screen saver - to show that it has nothing to show
• No File Vault on - Important
• NO - TimeMachine - during iMovie/iDVD work either ! IMPORTANT
• Lot's of icons on DeskTop/Finder also slows down the Mac noticeably
• Start a new User-Account and log into this and iMovie get's faster too - if a project is in a hurry
• And let Mac run on Mains - not just on battery
Yours Bengt W

IPhoto vs Canon's Digital Photo Professional for RAW

Greetings,
Quick question after not finding much while searching the forums:
I’m currently using a MBP C2D, 2.33/2G ram, all updated software. Just got a Canon Rebel XTi, finally putting aside my Canon 35mm (for now anyway).
Can someone offer feedback on iPhoto vs Canon's Digital Photo Professional for RAW editing for someone with limited experience with RAW editing?
I understand there are also other options out there but I'm trying to compare what is basically free/already provided, perhaps upgrading once I become more experienced with Digital/RAW editing.
Thanks in advance...
MBP C2D Mac OS X (10.4.8)

wdunn:
Welcome to the Apple Discussions. Nearly all, if not all, professionals use RAW in their shooting. There are a lot of advantages to that if you know what you're doing and need the extreme control over the image that pros usually do. I hang out in the iView MediaPro forum. Over there it's nearly all RAW users and I've learned a little of what they can do with fine tuning a photo. It is considerable. But for amateurs like us, jpgs are more than enough.
I've edited and saved a jpg file many times to see if I could detect the "degradation" and couldn't. If one was going to make a very, very large sized print then you might see something after a number of saves. Personally I use Photoshop for my editing and on "special" photos I create a psd file, duplicate the base layer and do my edits on the duplicate layer. That way I can easily compare to the original, and keep the resolution quality the same throughout. But, only on special projects.
Do you Twango?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've written an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB file backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

WinXP: Resize pic for digital photo frame with PS Elements

PS Elements 5
Preloading a small memory card for a photo frame to be given for holiday gift. Not familiar with these frames.
This Digital Photo Frame is a 16x9 aspect, 800x480 pixels.
In PS Elements, I crop each pic to 16" x 9"
Then resize photo to 800 pixel width, constraining proportions it sets the height at 450 pixels, resolution 72 pixels/in. Seems I am wasting the frame real estate.
Change the crop tool for 15" x 9"
Then resize photo to 800 pixel width, constraining proportions it sets the height at 480 pixels, resolution 72 pixels/in.
Each photo comes to ~ 400k.
Questions:
Which above crop/resize/resolution is best? or alternate?
Will the frame make use of the 400k pics, or should I reduce quality to something less?

<[email protected]> wrote in message news:[email protected].. >I would enter 800 px by 480 px in the crop tool, lets you crop and resize >in one step. Then you would probably need to save it as a jpg to use in the >frame. Adjust the compression to get the size/quality trade off that works >for you. Using save for web makes it easy to see the effects of different >compressions. > > The resolution doesn't matter. The frame will display your 800x480 pixels > at its native resolution.

Photo quality in Imovie

I have Imovie HD 6 and Final Cut Express. I am creating the typical slideshow with photos from a digital camera and adding transitions and music, blah, blah.
When I export in each application I get the same quicktime export screen. No matter what I do I get crappy photo quality in the imovie export and amazing photo quality in the FCE export. Are they not both using the same quicktime export? Why is there such a difference in quality?
I did notice that if I render the imovie video as "uncompressed" ir in HD I get ALMOST the same quality as the FCE render on a typical MP4 export.
Just wondering why this is since they seem to both just be using Quicktime to create the compression.

I don't own FPE (or have any "video" camera) but you're mixing apples and oranges when using image formats in "video" apps.
iMovie is a DV editing app and converts your single image into 30 similar files per second (.dv). The same is probably true with FCE but it may be set for "high quality" which may appear better. And the newer option to use MPEG-4 does make a bit of difference.
Neither is appropriate for using still image files because of this conversion.
First rule would be to use the appropriate dimensions for your destination. Standard definition video would be 640X480 and not your multi megabyte source files.
I would add (scaled) the 640X480 sized image to a few seconds of audio (you decide the duration), extract the new video track and then export that as DV Stream (.dv) using QuickTime Pro.
Same as if it came from a DV camera.

Photo Quality in iDVD

I work with still photos only. Want a slideshow that maintains photo image quality. iMovie coverts to video file & degrades the quality. Changed to FotoMagico. Maintains photo quality in slideshow & offers transitions, KB effect & title slides. It exports to iDVD or Roxio Toast to burn DVD. After the burn in iDVD, the images are distorted and the transition movements are very choppy. Is iDVD coverting this to video images, thereby degrading the photo quality? Is there a way to use iDVD and maintain quality? Would Toast be better? My goal is to produce a photographic quality "still photo" slideshow using transitions, KB, etc. I am selecting NTSC 4:3, best quality in both programs. Getting very frustrated trying to output the quality I can see on my display in a DVD...any suggestion?

Hi,
I feel like I am back at school...
1. I have the BETA version because when I tried to export or burn a DVD neither worked. They knew that was a problem & sent me the BETA fix. Now I can burn or export.
2. My problem is whatever I do with the burn results in loss of image quality. I have been corresponding with Werner at FotoMagico who has been very helpful. He says image quality from still photos which have been authored & burned can not maintain image quality the technology just doesn't exist unless I go to a pro DVD lab and have them work with compressions per frame. He specifically said it is due to limitations with the MPEG-2 stream, which is standard in DVD playback. The little I have read on this is over my head.
3. Right now I will forgo the idea of playback on a TV. Let's just deal with computer. When I burn to DVD as my option and it opens in iDVD it results in degraded images. I don't know what to select in iDVD and or FotoMagico to change this result or if it is even possible. I run a G5 with a 23" monitor, most current software on ALL prgrams. Picture files are digital froma Nikon D200 and a mix of negative and slides scanned in with a Nikon CoolScan 5000 and moved into iPhoto via the scanner or a transfer from Adobe. I am having the problem with all these types. What do you mean by resolution in iPhoto?
4. I transfer from FotoMagico to iDVD by selecting 'Burn DVD' and it opens to 'iDVD'. I have left all settings on FotoMagico and iDVD at default settings and Werner said that should be okay. FYI - I have tried changing slideshow setting from display reolution to 23" monitor to NTSC. Nothing seems to change image quality.
5. I would like at this point to be able to maintain image quality for transer in Quick time, upload to .MAC web account, etc. Help me there I am lost.
6. Someone on this discussion also suggested burning to iDVD using the data portion only of the DVD using disk utility. I need help there. Also will that reproduce sound or only the photos. I understand that TV's and DVD players will not accept this mode and that is okay until someone figures out a way to maintain image quality for TV w/o an expensive lab.
7. Werner said this is possible but they suggest copying the entire package (document as well as images and audio) and move it to iDVD or Toast. On the target devise install a FOtoMagico demo version & run it there. or if the target machine is not a Mac & FotoMagico can 't be nstalled there, you can export manually to a QuickTime movie by selecting 'export' frpm the File menu. Use 'HD preset or 'QuicltTime' & burn the resulting file to a DVD. My husband & I will work on this (with a tech if nec) and maybe you have some thoughts as well.
At the end of this I think I will know more about video and FPS and MPEg's than I ever intended. Oh well, a little knowledge never hurt anyone!
One last thing, what is a BETA for NTSC. I hate to bug Werner again without knowing what this is!

Is there a way to make digital photos look less like video in FCP?

I know this is probably a question better suited to the Adobe Photoshop forums, but does anyone know a way to make digital photos look more like film than video in FCP? I know about watching for hotspots and such, but is there anything else I can do?
Thanks in advance,
Lloyd Lathrop

All links in the chain peddle the bicycle: in this case, I would guess your photography may suffer a bit if your colors are blown out. In assuming you have a chance to rephotograph, establish in your menu that your color temperature matches your lighting. Try K6300 for strobe, K6100 for strobe umbrella, K3100 up or down a few for tungsten: make sure your lights are at 45 degree from your photos, reflection of the camera. Your best bet is to WBalance them, and at all the same exposure, as Automatic tends to give you the neutral color and neutral value. Don't trust automatic unless you're in a pinch. You can also set in your menu a "less vivid" level, but I wouldn't trust this either.
Good luck.

Maintaining Photo Quality In iMovie

Question for one of you brilliant guys using iMovie.
I have my movie for the veterans almost finished, but I have a question on maintaining photo quality when publishing or finalizing the movie.
I did a test and exported my movie to hard drive, but the photos have piilation in shaded areas like the photos were taken with a Dollar Store throw away camera. The original photos are good quality. I exported as 720 HD. How can I get the best quality if I want to put the movie on DVD?
Thanks so much.

Sorry for the Typo, I meant "Pixilation, Spottines" generally poor quality

Photo Frame Question

I know that this is not an Apple Question but I haven't found a forum for this and I was curios if anyone else had run into this issue:
I have a Sylvania 10" Digital photo frame (I do not recommend this frame to anyone. Support on it is lousy to non-existant and I am still waiting for a replacement remote control for it which I ordered in March. I am using my harmony remote to control it right now.) which displays photos pretty well. It's resolution is 1024 x 600. The issue that I am seeing that I wonder if anyone else has seen on their digital photo frame, is that when I transfer photos from the mac to the photo frame and then view them with the quick view progam, the images are corrupted. Even Disk Verify shows that the jpg images are corrupted yet the photo frame has no problem displaying them. They look normal with no corruption at all. The files on my hard drive are fine with no corruption at all. Since I won't be using the frame as a backup for my photos anyway, its not an end of the world issue but I am curious if this happens with other digital photo frames. Interestingly enough, the disk utility sees the frame as having an unknown or unspecified partition with an MS-DOS Fat 32 format on it.
Thanks,
Patrick

Hello tweetybird53,
Thanks very much for purchasing the HP Digital Photo Frame. I regret that you are having some product and support challenges. Please email me with your HP case number or your product number, serial number and contact information so that we can get your issue resolved quickly.
The answer to the question, "Is there an HP service depot near where you live that you can take it there?" is no. Currently, customers can not drop off products at an HP service center. There is a process to follow that entails mailing in the product if it is coded for repair. In some cases, the defective product is simply replaced.
I look forward to assisting tweetybird53.
Regards,

Digital Photo Professional

Hi,
The Canon 70d is a very nice camera that is quite new.
Will the DPP 4.1.xx software be available for it in the future?
Thanks,
Steve

KingEyre wrote:
This is the info, including the link to the Canon website.
Canon has released an updated version of its Digital Photo Professional (DPP) software, which now supports – in addition to its current range of full-frame DSLRs – the EOS-1D Mark IV, EOS 70D, EOS 7D Mark II, EOS 7D, EOS 5D Mark II, EOS 700D and EOS 100D…
Launched in September 2014, Digital Photo Professional 4 was Canon’s first sweeping change to its popular RAW processing software since its original launch. The latest version of DPP – version 4.1.50 – is a response to feedback from owners of older full-frame and APS-C cameras who are looking for the very latest RAW workflow solution.
Additionally, DPP 4.1.50 supports the recently launched EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II USM and EF-S 24mm f/2.8 STM lenses, the profiles for which are now available for use with the Lens Correction function.
Commenting on the update, Mike Owen, European Professional Imaging Communications Manager, Professional Imaging Department, Canon Europe, said: “DPP 4.0 has proved incredibly popular with our customers and this latest update further extends its appeal to a wider range of users, such as those using the highly successful EOS 5D Mark II. Canon remains firmly committed to offering a complete range of products to photographers and increasingly its software solutions are playing a vital role in delivering the ultimate in image quality from capture to output.”
DPP 4.1.50: KEY FEATURES
Faster, real-time adjustments.
Improved RAW file workflow.
Better, more approachable user interfaces.
Compatible with 64-bit native environments.
Colour adjustments for specific colour gamuts.
Improved highlight recovery provides expanded tonality.
Improved shadow recovery function.
Support for movie playback.
Auto Lighting Optimizer can be applied to JPEG images.
Better integration with EOS Utility.
You can download DPP 4.1.50 now, free of charge, from Canon Europe’s support site here. Just click on your camera – EOS-1D X, EOS-1D C, EOS 5D Mark III, EOS 5D Mark II, EOS 6D, EOS-1D Mark IV, EOS 70D, EOS 7D Mark II, EOS 7D, EOS 700D and EOS 100D – and select DPP 4.1.50 from the software options to download.
I got it, and it seems to work. I haven't had a chance yet to see whether it fixes any of the bugs in the previous release or improves on the awkward user interface. But it does work on my 7D RAW files, which is what I badly wanted. That said, it still doesn't work on files from my wife's T2i; and since we do some photo shoots together, that remains an annoying inconvenience. I think they should just make V4 work on all .CR2 RAW files.
As of this morning, the new release is still not on the Canon USA Web site, nor is there any mention of it there.
If you haven't downloaded DPP V4 before, don't be blindsided by the fact that they make you enter the serial number of a qualifying camera. If you don't have that on your computer, you'll want to look it up ahead of time.
There's also a new release of Version 3 of EOS Utility. But it appears that the only addition is the aberration data for one or two recently released lenses.
Bob
Boston, Massachusetts USA

Digital photo professional - export JPG from RAW

Hello!
i have a problem with program Digital photo professional, when i want export images from RAW format to JPG.
The problem is, that quality of image is much more worse, then in RAW format in DPP. JPG looks blurred and fuzzy.
IMAGE LINK:
Please check image, on the left side is print screen from RAW in DPP, on the right is exported JPG from DPP.
I want export JPG with the same quality as i see in RAW
Is there anybody to help me?
Thanks a lot.
Vit

1. open *.CR2 (raw file) in DPP
2.file/convert and save
3.type of file - EXif JPEG (JPG, JPEG)
4.image quality 10
5.output resolution 350dpi
6.check - embed icc profile in image
There are not another settings, so i dont know, why has exported JPG so bad quality...
When i open *.CR2 file in PS5, i see the same bad quality as exported JPG from DPP, but i read, that PS5, cannot
open CR2 file in best quality, because PS5 doesnt have all function, that have DPP.
I tested it on two PC, so problem is not only on my PC...
Thanks.

Digital Photo Quality Question...

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for