Digitizing 8mm film from scanner

I need to analyze 8mm film at the highest quality possible on a frame-by-frame basis, including anyy material between sprocket holes. Consequently, I will be using a flatbed scanner at the highest DPI setting possible. Once that work is completed, I would like to render these scanned digital images as a digital movie. Thus, I need to obtain MacOS X software that will recognize and extract frames (sprocket holes are unreliable indicators) and create additional iFrames so that the resulting video plays at 30 fps without flicker, strobe effects, stutter, etc. I have found Windows-based software but don't have a Windows machine. I want to use my Mac. So the question is, what MacOS X software do I need to acquire in order to make this video?

Yes, I am aware of several such companies and the one I would normally use is http://www.gotmemories.com because they use state-of-the art equipment and their prices are reasonable. The gear I am refering to is the $2500 scanner pictured here: http://www.moviestuff.tv. However, in this particular case I will already have very hi rez source (9600 DPI) – much better than what any telecine gear can produce so paying someone to do less well seems wasteful. The Windows-based software that they use fits my specifications exactly but I'm just more comfortable with a Mac and would prefer to DIY if possible. I expect to have more such work so I don't mind a small software investment.
Thanks for the reply though.

Similar Messages

8mm film from 1950s conversion

I am preparing to have 2000 feet of 8mm film converted to digital, which I then plan to edit in FCE HD (3.5.1). I am looking at a service that will do a frame-by-frame scan in HD, through an enlarged gate, and captured via a Blackmagic card. The resulting files will be in an .avi wrapper with each 50 ft reel (about 4 minutes) resulting in a file about 1.5Gb in size. Since .avi files do not import directly into FCE... what is the best way to convert them so that they will? ... and will I lose a great deal of quality in the conversion?
Since I've not yet committed to a service... is there a "better" option for a format into which the film should be converted? Almost every place I've seen uses either .avi or .mov for the final result. While films of our family Christmases, etc. may not be great art... these films from the 1950s are important to us and I want to do this right the first time (definitely not a DIY project). Any recommendations about specific codecs (or other technical details I don't really understand) that should be used so that I can get a high-quality input into FCE 3.5?

Thanks, Keith - I appreciate the contact, and may need to use another service, depending... What I am really looking for is information about the technical jargon I need to use wrt the format in which the files must be saved so that I can successfully import them into FCE, without losing quality. I am a total newbie with this... I think I understand that .avi is a wrapper, but there are supposedly various codecs, etc. that can be contained within that wrapper? I do not even know what to ask about such matters and am hoping someone out there can tell me specifically what to ask for from a provider (or to avoid).

Adding pulldown to 8mm film from 18fps - 24fps

This is probably an obscure question, but I've basically built a simple telecine and taken still frames of an old 8mm film that runs at 18fps. I'm importing it into FCP at 1 frame per still and putting them into a 23.98 sequence, then slowing it down by 2/3s to get it at the right speed. This solution works but it blends frames, etc. FCP doesn't let you use a custom editing timebase for a sequence, so I'm wondering if Cinema Tools will let me add a pulldown to convert the 18fps stills to 24fps video clip or if there is a way to set the 24p sequence speed to 66.67% without it frame blending and instead just duplicate frames in a cadence, essentially adding pulldown. I'm hoping that with an easy method I can digitize many more 8mm films. Thanks for any advice.

Thanks, I completely forgot about that. If I'm missing something here, let me know: The only thing is that for some reason FCP won't duplicate frames if the sequence is made of still clips, the screen just goes black. But if you export the sequence as a reference quicktime and import that, slowing it down without frame blending, it works perfect.

Transfer 8mm film to DVD

My father has rolls and rolls of old 8mm film from the 1950s and 60s. Any one have any ideas on what is the best way to get that film onto DVD? I figure at the very least I can project the film onto the movie screen with a digital video camera pointed at it, and record them. Any other ideas?
Thanks

Use of a digital camera and projector, as you've suggested, is probably the simplest way. I would only suggest that, instead of a projecting onto a screen or wall, you use a video transfer device such as those designed originally for transferring movies-to-tape.
These devices have two openings and an internal mirror at a 45 degree angle. The projector plays into one opening, and your video camera records at the other opening.
The resulting quality will be much better than if projected/recorded off a wall or screen.
They should be cheap, and even be available on ebay .

8mm film to digital

I have about 30 reels of 8mm, 50 feet each. I'm using Premiere Elements 8.
Which process should I use to convert the film into a file format that would be best to use with displaying on HDTV using the Premiere?
Thanks. Alan

At the risk of upsetting some folks --don't over think the resolution of digitized 8mm/super8mm HOME movies.
HD or SD really isn't the issue. The true issue is what is already on the old film. While you can improve some aspects of the material (lighting issues primarily) you really can't add resolution that is not there to start.
My two biggest surprises when dealing with digitalization of film from the 1930's through the 1960's:
the optics were primitive by today's standards; and unless someone followed the photographer around with a tape measure (to manually correct the manual focus of the day) you will wind up with digitized images that are not (were not) trully focused.
after digitalization, amazing corrections/edits CAN be made to under/over exposed scenes. The simplest application of the Shadow/Highlight pre-set can make people (never seen when originally projected) pop out of shadows or glare.
Additionally, the auto-focusing of the 1970's Super8 cameras also did not compare to today's technology --they were slow, easily fooled. And zooming compounded the focusing errors.
Go for it. Send one or two small rolls to a company of your choice --many of them have been doing this conversion for years and already have an idea of what you are looking for and can expect.

Why when playing a film from iTunes through a digital av adapter on my ipad2 does the picture get pixelated

Why when playing a film from iTunes through a digital av adapter on my ipad2 does the picture get pixelated

iPad 3 does not have a lightning port, it's 30 pin.

SATA vs Ultra drives for importing from 8mm film machine

Hello,
The guys over at the g5 discussions sent me here.
I plan to buy a machine which transfers 8mm movie film directly to the computer.
It uses a rapid stop motion single frame capture.
You can view it at: http://moviestuff.tv/wp_xp.html
The vendor told me that I need to get 2 identical drives but they cannot be SATA because since those run at a pulse mode which is good for streaming but not for this type of transfer. He said the difference is in whether you capture a frame stationary or while it is in motion. He claims that using SATA will result in some of the frames captured to be blurred, and added that this would not happen with the Ultra.
He recommends also using a RAID0 configeration with CaptureMate.
This is all new to me. The guys at the G5 discussion feel the vendor has got it all wrong. They said I should be able to run it with the SATA drives already in the G5 and no need to RAID them.
I would appreciate any help you can give. Didn't know if anyone here ever had any experience with this type of machine.
Thanks.
Mike

Hi, Mike!
All I can say is that the guy who makes these things from scratch is as good as they come and probably has a good reason for his advice to you. I've researched these devices in the past and I think you've made a good choice for both performance and price, from all that I've read. Now and again, the subject of 8mm film transfer pops up here at the Discussions, and this vendor's products have always come highly recommended. Nothing technical about SATA versus ATA input/output, just my two cents worth of advice on what to do using the equipment he has designed and built...
Gary

Imovie and 8mm film

Is there anyone out there who scans 8mm film through to the mac? if so, what is a good brand to purchase and do you upload to you digital movie camera and then to imovie?
last qustion - any chance you can purchase a scanner that does slides and 8 mil film. i have bags full of slides and film from my childhood that my dad shot and i really want to get it on dvd.
thanks a million,
movie lady

I believe most scanners have slide adapters that can be purchased. My sister-in-law did all of he fathers old slides this way, but they had to be scanned on at a time. She has patience.
As far as 8mm film goes,you can project the image onto a white screen and use your dv camera to capture the footage, but you have to adjust your video camera shutter speed to 24 frames per second, to match the shutter speed to the 8mm . You can purchase telecine equipment that will do the job, but the profesionals have the best equipment that capture the movies directly to 3ccd cameras. You will have all of your films saved onto mini dv tapes. If you are talking about transfering a few hours worth of film, it hardly pays to purchase the high end equipment. You probably only want to do this once , so why spend money and have "adequate" or poor results?
I had over ten hours of silent 8mm film and super 8mm sound film transfered by Home Movie Depot. The results were fantastic, but expecxt to pay approximatley $0.15/foot.
They clean the film, and correct for lighting variations. I had some problems with some of the results, and they redid that portion, no questions asked.
Since you get the films back on mini dv's, you can load the footage onto your mac & edit away, and burn your dvd's.
http://www.homemoviedepot.com/

I recently had some 8mm film transferred to DVD. I am trying to edit the film clips using Premier Elements 4.0. Some of the film clips copy into the project but others don't. I tried copying the VOB filed onto my hard drive and then changing the file ext

I recently had some 8mm film transferred to DVD. I am trying to edit the film clips using Premier Elements 4.0. so I can reburn the films on a single BluRay disc. Some of the film clips copy into the project but others don't. I tried copying the VOB filed onto my hard drive and then changing the file extensions on the VOB files to MPEG but this was no help. Some of the VOB files contain numerous film clips but my software does not appear to be able to recognize them as such. I need to know if replacing my old Premier Elements with the new Version 13 would solve this problem or not. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
Bob

Bob
What do you have now.....
What computer operating system do you have?
We can go into the finer points of source and your intentions, but for now it would appear that you are using SD 4:3 source media to get to a HD 16:9 result. Lots to discuss in this regard.
What was given to you on the DVD disc? DVD-VIDEO 4:3 or something else?
If DVD-VIDEO on DVD disc, you should expect to find on the disc a folder named VIDEO_TS. That is your target for your video files.
If you were given a DVD-VIDEO on DVD disc, then all you want from it are the video files, specifically
VTS_01_1.VOB, VTS_01_2.VOB, and so on through that series until possibly getting to
VTS_02_1.VOB, and so on. How many files you have beyond the VTS_01_1.VOB file will depend on the size of the DVD-VIDEO.
Does the above scenario apply to you?
The alternative might be someone giving a DVD disc (data disc) which contains just the VTS files mentioned which were copied from
the VIDEO_TS Folder. So, you do not get the whole VIDEO_TS Folder, just the essential video files. Does this scenario apply to you.
I see no need to replace your Premiere Elements 4 with a later version unless you have a huge project and need a later version that will be a 64 bit application running specifically on Windows 7, 8, or 8.1 64 bit computer.
Consider...Premiere Elements 4 and if you have DVD-VIDEO on DVD....
1. Place the DVD disc in the burner tray
2. Open Premiere Elements 4 and set the project preset for NTSC DV Standard (assuming you are working in a NTSC setup)
3. Go to
Get Media
"DVD, Digital Camera, Mobile Phone, Hard Drive Camcorder, Card Reader"
"Adobe Premiere Elements - Media Downloader" and its Advanced dialog.
Set the Source in the latter dialog for the drive which has your DVD disc inserted in its tray
You should see your VTS_01_1.VOB thumbnail in the "Adobe Premiere Elements - Media Downloader" Advanced dialog.
With this VOB selected, click on Get Media to get the file from there into the project.
Should work fine.
Complications may be involved if the people who processed your footage gave you something other what is described above.
Please review and consider, and then we can plan our project strategy accordingly.
Thank you.
ATR

Recommendations for film / negative scanner

I am planning on the (massive) project of scanning back slides and negatives into digital format. From research so far it looks like a Nikon scanner may work best as dedicated film scanner. Looks like flatbed scanners would not produce as good a quality - but maybe they would be okay for non-commercial family pictures that I'll be working with. Anyone with any recommendations? I would like to do the job only once (of course) and ideally have the ability for scanner to self-feed through the few images on each negative and not have to preview / rescan each image. Any help appreciated!
-Bob

Bob:
Just remember when you're finished with scanning the negatives and slides you'll have a nice door stop. I did that with a Polaroid Sprintscan LE. I did scan a lot of slides but it was useless when I finished. I just bought a Canon 8600F scanner that does slides and film strips. The newer flatbeds do a good job in scanning those items and will still be useful when you've run thru your slides and filmstrips.
Do you Twango?
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

8mm film to IMovie

Does anyone have a suggestion as to how I can get from 8mm film to IMovie?
I had 400 feet of 8mm transferred to DVD But IMovie won’t accept it. Says QuickTime can’t parse it.
Called Apple and asked if QuickTimePro might do the job. The answer was yes and 100 bucks later I had Toast 8 Titanium. Rather than send it back( I thought I’d ordered QuickTime Pro) I called Roxio and asked if Toast would convert the DVD to something IMovie could use. Again, the answer was yes.
When I used Toast it gave me a message that it couldn’t do the job because the DVD “might be copy protected”. A call to the DVD provider indicated that the DVD was copy protected ... even tho’ it is my film on the DVD.
Someone said to try MacTheRipper. I did and it did rip the movie from the DVD but it was still “copy protected”. Running that through Toast didn’t help.
On online site suggests (buying) a digital movie camera and recording my movies from the projected movies, then transferring that to my MAC. I’ll probably do that if I can’t find something simpler.
I still have over 7,000 feet of 8 and super 8 film to work with so, if anyone has a suggestion I’d very much appreciate it?
For info, I’m very much an amateur.
IMAC G 5 (Intel) IMovie 6.03 QuickTime 7.0.3
and, I just downloaded all the info in IMovie comments re: help with deciding camcorder purchase .
Thanks,
JIm

A fascinating project!
My older brother had 4 hours of (silent) 8mm cine film dating back to 1958-1980 (when he finally bought a video camera!). He wanted me to convert them to carefully edited DVDs, with music, sound effects, titles and so on. Like a madman I accepted the challenge! To make life easier he lives in Belgium and uses a PC!
The process, to cut this short, was as follows:
At considerable expense he had all the film transferred to four DVDs in some PC-only friendly mpeg codec, and sent them to me.
I used Streamclip and the Apple mpeg thingy (saving time by not loking it up) to convert these to Quicktime DV files. To make life even easier, the Belgian moron who did the conversion to DVDs had not done so in chronologal order!
That made for a very large QT file, which I imported into iMovie, and set about carving it into date order, re-exporting the various years to QT as individual files, and then importing into iMovie projects to edit.
Only a couple of months later I had it organised into three projects, each of an hour or so, beautifully edited with titles, transitions, music, sound effects and other bells and whistles, and burnt them to 3 DVDs. I was generally agreed that I deserved an Oscar for technical merit!
That was just to let you know that it can be done!
Your only real hurdle is the copy protection. Can you get a fresh set that is NOT copy protected?
But before you even start I heartily recommend that you update your OS and all software to the latest versions, particularly Quicktime, and make that Pro.

Recommend 8mm Film Transfer Service

I would like to have our family 8mm films (and one 16mm from 1929) transferred to a digital format for editing in FCP. I don't want to spend a ton of $$ (I have 47 3-inch 8mm reels), but I want a good quality transfer. (One quote I got was for over $1,000) There are a bunch of companies that do this, but it is hard to tell who is good. Apparently there are several methods for transfer and it seems most result in an uncompressed .avi file. I am sorry to post this off-topic question here, but I trust this FCP forum and hope maybe some other editors have done this kind of project before.
Thanks in advance for replies.

Catherine
I think you have two incompatible requirements: "Good quality transfer" vs. "I don't want to spend a ton of $$." There is a high cost for a good quality commercial transfer.
A few years ago I got the bug to transfer family 8 and Super8 mm film to digital. My first attempt was to simply project the image on a screen and aim a camcorder at it. The result was not-so-great — flicker when projector speed isn't perfectly synched with camcorder speed, plus parallax and not perfect focus since the camcorder has to shoot the screen at an angle because it's alongside the projector, not directly in line with it.
Then, after a recommendation from this forum, I checked out MovieStuff (see Carl's post above). I ended up purchasing a WorkPrinter-XP and doing the job myself. (Click on the 'Equipment' link at the bottom of the MovieStuff page.) In simple terms, software on the Mac syncs the camcorder with the projector, capturing the film frame-by-frame, resulting in no flicker, no parallax, full-frame capture, and a sharp picture. Drop the file in FCP and edit to your heart's content, then create a DVD with music, a voiceover and/or closed captioning, and wow the family.
Other than having total control of all phases of the project plus the satisfaction of doing this myself, the next best thing is that, in the end, it cost me nothing. In fact, it continues to pay for itself. What would've been spent having the film commercially transferred, wasn't. As word spread, distant relatives asked if I could transfer their film. Yes, for a reasonable fee. Then word spread to non-relatives. You get the idea. In short, there is still a lot of 8mm film out there in canisters that people want to see but can't because their projectors don't work and many have heard horror stories of the product received when film was sent away to a commercial transfer outfit.
If doing it yourself interests you, one recommendation I would make is to splice the film on all those 3" reels and put it on 8" reels. The job goes a lot faster with fewer reels.
Good luck

Need film/slide scanner for PM 7600

I want a film/slide scanner to digitally capture the images from my zillions of slides and negatives. Cost, as usual, is a problem. I was thinking that rather than buying a low end 1800 DPI piece of crap to team with the G5, maybe I could get a good one (used/reconditioned) with SCSI and team it with one of my PM 7600s. Can anyone suggest a source for this, besides eBay?
TIA
Kathi

Thanks everybody!
Jeff--yes, lucky me, I got my Christmas wish of a PowerMac G5. Just as the PPC chip was breathing its last, with the dual-core rendition (2.0 GHz). Turned out that my particular chip was bad, and it took more than a month of struggling with all kinds of crazy behavior to drill down to that. I was sure glad I had my 7600s during that time. And I still enjoy the original one, though its twin isn't getting much use now. I swapped the processors so that the one with the extra RAM and added storage now also has the faster (233 mHz) processor. I scored an old 17" AppleVision CRT from the office to run with the G5 so the 7600 could have its MultiSync 70 back, and I also got a very nice 15" or so Sony display from work that runs with the twin. Which means that at long last I put my two 13" Apple RGB displays out with the trash a few weeks ago. And I upgraded both 7600s to OS 9.1, which is as far as they'll go, I guess, without processor upgrades. That was really my main reason for wanting the G5--the OS X functionality, more than pure performance issues. There are too many things that don't work in Classic nowadays. Of course the G5 is much faster, but not so much faster that I want to scream every time I use the 7600. The three machines are happily networked via router.
I always forget about all the stuff that offices dump even though I've been a more-than-occasional beneficiary of the process. Thanks for reminding me. I'll have to ask our IT guy if he knows of any outlets around here. Scouring thrift shops is too big a mission for my overworked/lazy self at this point
Grant--thanks for the specs. I haven't looked at the current UMAX flatbed products because I already have a UMAX 1220S. I figured a slide attachment for it might turn up on eBay one day but I don't have the patience for that. It doesn't look as though any of their current slide/film holders would work with the 1220S, and even if they did still have something for my model, the resolution would be kind of low for 35mm anyway.
Jim--thanks for the warning!! I'm sorry you had such a hassle with that Nikon scanner.
Tom, your Polaroid scanner sounds great. I can't find any current Polaroid film scanners on their Web site, they only list Nikon and Microtek (all quite pricey). Maybe I can find a used one like yours. Or maybe I really don't need more than 1800 DPI and I should just buy the UMAX PowerLook 180... Probably will never do much printing with my old images, more likely just digital display, but I'm not positive about that, and I'd like to be able to throw out all those slides without sweating when the conversions are done.

How can i transfer films from laptop to itunes and then to ipad?

is it possible to upload films from my laptop to my ipad (via itunes) without having to buy/download them from the istore?

Just drag the videos into the iTunes window or choose File > Add to Library, locate a file or folder, and click Open.
The video has to be in a format that is compatiple with iTunes. If you wish to add it to your iPad it needs to be in an iPad compatible format also.
All mobile devices which iTunes can sync video to can play the following video formats:
H.264
File formats: .m4v, .mp4, and .mov
Video: Up to 768 kbits/sec, 320 x 240, 30 frames per second (fps), Baseline Profile up to Level 1.3.
Audio: AAC-LC up to 160 kbits/sec, 48 Khz, and stereo audio.
MPEG-4
File formats: .m4v, .mp4, and .mov
Video: Up to 2.5 Mbits/sec, 480 x 480, 30 fps, Simple Profile.
Audio: AAC-LC up to 160 kbits/sec, 48 Khz, stereo audio.
iTunes:
Video content purchased from the iTunes Store.
QuickTime and MPEG-4 movie files that end in ".mov", ".m4v", or ".mp4" and are playable in QuickTime Player.
Video podcasts.
iTunes Digital Copies.
iTunes Store Movie Rentals (Requires iTunes 9 or later).
Mobile Devices:
Video content purchased from the iTunes Store.
Videos that have been shared to iTunes using QuickTime Player (Mac OS X v10.6 Snow Leopard).
Videos that have been re-encoded for iPod with QuickTime 7 Pro.
Videos that have been re-encoded for iPod with iMovie, Final Cut Pro, and others. Refer to Exporting a movie from iMovie HD to iPod for an iMovie HD tutorial.
Video Podcasts that have been created for mobile devices.
Video files after using the iTunes File > Create New Version > Create iPod or iPhone version option.
Video files after using the iTunes File > Create New Version > Create iPad or AppleTV version option (iPad and AppleTV only).

PSE 11 editor has stopped importing from scanner, no longer permits drag and drop, will not permit cropping, and other bizarre issues

Windows 8.1, PSE 11
I am having a number of issues including loss of import functionality from scanner, I can't drag and drop photos into the editor any more as well, or at least not after the first one. The crop function stops working after the first couple of photos. Then some freezing. A little added crashing. A plethora of other bizarre issues as well. This just stated happening a couple of days ago.
What I have tried:
Uninstall/Install.
Deleted preferences both before opening Editor (crontrol-alt-delete) and after opening it.
Kindly advise. Thanks!
Adobe Photoshop Elements Version: 11.0 (11.0 (20120830.r.32025)) x32
Operating System: Windows 8 64-bit
Version: 6.2
System architecture: Intel CPU Family:6, Model:10, Stepping:9 with MMX, SSE Integer, SSE FP, SSE2, SSE3, SSE4.1, SSE4.2
Physical processor count: 8
Processor speed: 3500 MHz
Built-in memory: 8139 MB
Free memory: 5185 MB
Memory available to Photoshop Elements: 3255 MB
Memory used by Photoshop Elements: 70 %
Image tile size: 128K
Image cache levels: 6
Display: 1
Display Bounds:= top: 0, left: 0, bottom: 1440, right: 2560
Video Card Number: 1
Video Card: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Ti
Driver Version: 9.18.13.3750
Driver Date: 20140327000000.000000-000
Video Card Driver: nvd3dumx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvwgf2umx.dll,nvd3dum,nvwgf2um,nvwgf2um
Video Mode: 2560 x 1440 x 4294967296 colors
Video Card Caption: NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 Ti
Video Card Memory: -2047 MB
Application folder: C:\Program Files (x86)\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 11\
Temporary file path: C:\Users\evan\AppData\Local\Temp\
Photoshop Elements scratch has async I/O enabled
Scratch volume(s):
Startup, 931.2G, 805.4G free
Required Plug-ins folder: C:\Program Files (x86)\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 11\Required\
Primary Plug-ins folder: C:\Program Files (x86)\Adobe\Photoshop Elements 11\Plug-Ins\
Additional Plug-ins folder: not set
Installed components:
   ACE.dll   ACE 2011/03/29-16:11:44   63.457850   63.457850
   adbeape.dll   Adobe APE 2011/01/17-12:03:36   64.452786   64.452786
   AdobeLinguistic.dll   Adobe Linguisitc Library   5.0.0
   AdobeOwl.dll   Adobe Owl 2012/06/20-18:39:56   4.1.9   78.509892
   AdobeOwlCanvas.dll   Adobe Owl Canvas   3.0.68   61.2954
   AdobePDFL.dll   PDFL 2011/03/29-16:11:44   63.378681   63.378681
   AdobePIP.dll   Adobe Product Improvement Program   6.0.0.1654
   AdobeXMP.dll   Adobe XMP Core 2010/10/12-08:45:30   63.139439   63.139439
   AdobeXMPFiles.dll   Adobe XMP Files   5.0   61.134777
   adobe_caps.dll   Adobe CAPS   4,0,42,0
   Adobe_OOBE_Launcher.dll   Adobe OOBE Launcher   2.2.0.4 (BuildVersion: 2.2; BuildDate: Wed Apr 27 2011 21:49:00)   1.000000
   AGM.dll   AGM 2011/03/29-16:11:44   63.457850   63.457850
   ahclient.dll    AdobeHelp Dynamic Link Library   1,7,0,56
   aif_core.dll   AIF   3.0   1.486530
   aif_ogl.dll   AIF   3.0   1.486530
   amtlib.dll   AMTLib   4.2.0.4 (BuildVersion: 4.2; BuildDate: Wed Apr 27 2011 21:49:00)   1.000000
   amtservices.dll   AMTServices   4.2.0.4 (BuildVersion: 4.2; BuildDate: Wed Apr 27 2011 21:49:00)   1.000000
   ARE.dll   ARE 2011/03/29-16:11:44   63.457850   63.457850
   asneu.dll    AsnEndUser Dynamic Link Library   1, 7, 0, 1
   AXE8SharedExpat.dll   AXE8SharedExpat   3.3   49.279053
   AXEDOMCore.dll   AXEDOMCore   3.3   49.279053
   AXSLE.dll   AXSLE   3.3   49.279053
   Bib.dll   BIB 2011/03/29-16:11:44   63.457850   63.457850
   BIBUtils.dll   BIBUtils 2011/03/29-16:11:44   63.457850   63.457850
   boost_threads.dll   DVA Product   5.0.0
   cg.dll   NVIDIA Cg Runtime   2.0.0015
   cgGL.dll   NVIDIA Cg Runtime   2.0.0015
   CoolType.dll   CoolType 2011/03/29-16:11:44   63.457850   63.457850
   data_flow.dll   AIF   3.0   1.486530
   dvaadameve.dll   DVA Product   5.0.0
   dvacore.dll   DVA Product   5.0.0
   dvaui.dll   DVA Product   5.0.0
   ems.dll   Elements Organizer   11.0
   ExtendScript.dll   ExtendScript 2010/03/05-08:21:15   61.423205   61.423205
   FaceDetector.dll   FaceDetector 0000/00/00-00:00:00   2.0.1.1   2.0.1.1
   FileInfo.dll   Adobe XMP FileInfo   5.0   61.134777
   filter_graph.dll   AIF   3.0   1.486530
   hydra_filters.dll   AIF   3.0   1.486530
   icucnv36.dll   International Components for Unicode 2009/06/17-13:21:03    Build gtlib_main.9896
   icudt36.dll   International Components for Unicode 2009/06/17-13:21:03    Build gtlib_main.9896
   image_compiler.dll   AIF   3.0   1.486530
   image_flow.dll   AIF   3.0   1.486530
   image_runtime.dll   AIF   3.0   1.486530
   JP2KLib.dll   JP2KLib 2011/03/29-16:11:44   63.196876   63.196876
   libifcoremd.dll   Intel(r) Visual Fortran Compiler   10.0 (Update A)
   libmmd.dll   Intel(r) C Compiler, Intel(r) C++ Compiler, Intel(r) Fortran Compiler   10.0
   LogSession.dll   LogSession   2.1.2.1640
   MPS.dll   MPS 2011/05/24-09:45:42   63.464027   63.464027
   MSVCP100.dll   Microsoft® Visual Studio® 2010   10.00.30319.1
   MSVCP71.dll   Microsoft® Visual Studio .NET   7.10.3077.0
   MSVCR100.dll   Microsoft® Visual Studio® 2010   10.00.30319.1
   MSVCR71.dll   Microsoft® Visual Studio .NET   7.10.3052.4
   pdfsettings.dll   Adobe PDFSettings   1.04
   Photoshop.dll   Adobe Photoshop Elements Editor   11.0
   platform.DLL   Adobe Help System   1, 0, 0, 1
   Plugin.dll   Adobe Photoshop Elements Editor   11.0
   PSArt.dll   Adobe Photoshop Elements Editor   11.0
   PSViews.dll   Adobe Photoshop Elements Editor   11.0
   ScCore.dll   ScCore 2010/03/05-08:21:15   61.423205   61.423205
   shfolder.dll   Microsoft(R) Windows (R) 2000 Operating System   5.50.4027.300
   Tbb.dll   Intel(R) Threading Building Blocks for Windows   2, 2, 2009, 1011
   updaternotifications.dll   Adobe Updater Notifications Library   2.0.0.15 (BuildVersion: 1.0; BuildDate: BUILDDATETIME)   2.0.0.15
   WRServices.dll   WRServices Thursday January 21 2010 12:13:3   Build 0.11423   0.11423
Required plug-ins:
   Accented Edges 12.0
   ADM 3.11x01
   Angled Strokes 12.0
   Auto Divide 11.0.0.0 (11.0 (20120830.r.32025))
   Average 12.0.2
   Bas Relief 12.0
   BMP 12.0.2
   Camera Raw 7.4
   Chalk & Charcoal 12.0
   Charcoal 12.0
   Chrome 12.0
   Clouds 12.0.2
   Color Halftone 12.0.2
   Color Variations 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Colored Pencil 12.0
   Comic NO VERSION
   CompuServe GIF 12.0.2
   Conté Crayon 12.0
   Correct Camera Distortion 12.0.2
   Craquelure 12.0
   Crop and Straighten Photos Filter 12.0.2
   Crosshatch 12.0
   Crystallize 12.0.2
   Cutout 12.0
   Dark Strokes 12.0
   Difference Clouds 12.0.2
   Diffuse Glow 12.0
   Displace 12.0.2
   Dry Brush 12.0
   Extrude 12.0.2
   FastCore Routines 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Fibers 12.0.2
   Film Grain 12.0
   Filter Gallery 12.0
   Fresco 12.0
   Glass 12.0
   Glowing Edges 12.0
   Grain 12.0
   Graphic Novel NO VERSION
   Graphic Pen 12.0
   Halftone Pattern 12.0
   Ink Outlines 12.0
   Lens Blur 12.0
   Lens Flare 12.0.2
   Lighting Effects 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Liquify 12.0.1
   Matlab Operation 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Mezzotint 12.0.2
   MMXCore Routines 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Mosaic Tiles 12.0
   Multiprocessor Support 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Neon Glow 12.0
   Note Paper 12.0
   Ocean Ripple 12.0
   OnEdge 1, 0, 0, 1
   Paint Daubs 12.0
   Palette Knife 12.0
   Patchwork 12.0
   Pen and Ink NO VERSION
   Photocopy 12.0
   Picture Package Filter 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Pinch 12.0.2
   Pixar 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Plaster 12.0
   Plastic Wrap 12.0
   PNG 12.0.2
   Pointillize 12.0.2
   Polar Coordinates 12.0.2
   Polar Coordinates 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Poster Edges 12.0
   Radial Blur 12.0.2
   Read Watermark 4.0
   Reticulation 12.0
   Ripple 12.0.2
   Rough Pastels 12.0
   Save for Web & Devices 12.0
   ScriptingSupport 12.0.4
   Shear 12.0.2
   Smart Blur 12.0.2
   Smudge Stick 12.0
   Solarize 12.0.2
   Spatter 12.0
   Spherize 12.0.2
   Sponge 12.0
   Sprayed Strokes 12.0
   Stained Glass 12.0
   Stamp 12.0
   Straighten and Crop Image 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Straighten Image 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Sumi-e 12.0
   Texture Fill 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   TextureSelect 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Texturizer 12.0
   Tiles 12.0.2
   Torn Edges 12.0
   Twirl 12.0.2
   Underpainting 12.0
   Water Paper 12.0
   Watercolor 12.0
   Wave 12.0.2
   WIA Support 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   Wind 12.0.2
   ZigZag 12.0.2
Optional and third party plug-ins:
   Frame From Video 6.0
   Magic Extractor 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
   PhotomergeUI 12.0.4 (12.0.4x001)
Plug-ins that failed to load: NONE
Installed TWAIN devices: NONE

Final Update: ...god willing...
OK! Check it, like I said in previous posts I seemed to have narrowed it down to specific mp3s not converting and playing in their native sample rate which if paired with another sample would give you the "audio midi sync" error and basically screw up your clock! It appears mp3 files converting to mp3 using iTunes would not convert to the correct sample rate if set to something other than 44 in logic and cause this. A tad peculiar Apple iTunes won't work with Apple Logic. I was able to confirm this on two mac's via my friend in Florida. He's running Tiger and tried the same experiment and Booya! Mickey Mouse! It appears this insane week long adventure has came to an end (...god willing) with a super specific unlucky shot in the dark on my part finally revealed to be an perfectly normal function of Logic (obviously one i'm not fond of..) As far as the errors / crashes / system overloads / kernal panics I think I can sort those out to the mackie onyx satellite not being a good choice and trying to add and remove firewire devices in the middle of the sample rate mayhem. Wow! all I can say is, I'm glad it's over
Wish me a lot of luck in the future.. I'm sure i'll need it!

Digitizing 8mm film from scanner

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