Dirty mid-range frequency and very low vocal

I noticed this problem after I installed and began using Bose USB speakers on my Windows XP. In my iTunes, many of the songs have staticy mid-range frequency sound and vocals are very low and difficult to hear. These songs include songs that were ripped directly from marketed CDs or downloaded from iTunes Store. My equalizer is set to Flat and messing with the equalizer didn’t help as it made the songs even more staticy. I don’t have this problem on QuickTime, Windows Media Player, Realtime, nor on iPod. Only on iTunes. I want to use iTunes since I find it more convenient and easier to use than any other players that I know.
Can this be fixed? Please help.
iTunes 7.1.1.5 Windows XP

btw, I'm using my built-in laptop speakers (Altec Lansing); so it's not a Bose thing.

Similar Messages

What's the best way to cut annoying mid-range frequencies?

Does anybody know how to eliminate/cut mid-range frequencies that cause the speakers to "buzz"? Hi-cut and low-cut filters don't help much.
Thanks
Anya

hi, anya, how is your cd going?
there are a number of reasons for spiked upper mids.
inferior conversion, inferior monitors, small square rooms, inferior mic/mic-pre.
i heard your original demos when you posted them here, so i'm guessing it's your speakers, as i didn't hear that much wrong with the demo over my monitors.
the region of frequencies you are refering to are what superior gear addresses.
check out the "airwindows plugin' by chrisj. (kagi-airwindows plug-ins)
he has some fee ones which i'm now using a lot.
his commercial ones are well priced.
i have noticed quite a sweetening of the "presence range", which is where your problem is, using his channel and channel eq.
i like his stuff and will buy some more soon.
also try sonalksis' eq, it's very sweet sounding and subtle.
the udder cause of "buzz" could be sub bass overdrive, ie: too much bass that your speakers cannot handle and is making them vibrate. this sort of bass boost does nother for your mix except subtract from its headroom/dynamics.
again, this is due, generally, to using headphones or small bookshelfs to mix on.
best, david r.

I have an iPad 2 and external speakers work, but JACK for headset doesn't produce sound. If I wiggle, twist or adjust it, the earphones make a crackly and very low grade sound. Ideas?

No aud. or sound when using wired headphones. If I constantly play with input jack it will produce a low sound or a regular sound but it's not of any quality worth listening. I have owned this iPad for over three years. It was purchased new.
Happenings since 2013:
Broke screen due to fall on floor 9-2013
Screen replaced by techs on 10-2013
Upon getting back iPad after being repaired discovered no WiFi on 11-2013
Sent back to techs to repair issues with WiFi on 11-2013
Received unit back on 12-21-13. I only checked WiFi. Unit remained unused for a few weeks.
Used unit during Xmas season on average 12 hours a day but have not yet discovered or even tried a pair of headsets until after Xmas.
Does work on screen and internal wifi antenna effect output sound on headphones?
Can this be easily repaired, possibly without taking off the cover? Does it have an update conflict? Is is a Settings issue?
Please help with any ideas or suggestions.

Hello,
Try wiping the iPad and then starting again. (Don't forget to back up first!)
I had that problem it was software.

Missing audio in some applications and very low audio in others

Hi,
I am using Gnome 3 with Arch Linux and I started to notice that there is no sound with certain applications... but for the majority of the system the sound still works. For example, normally, when I click on the volume icon and move the slider up and down it usually has a "pop" sound with varying degrees of loudness based on where it is on the slider... that is completely silent now. When I am using other applications (such as cmus, pianobar, ..etc) the volume is really low even when I put the volume for that application up to 100%.
Additionally, I was trying to pinpoint exactly what could be causing this problem and I remember that it happened when I was using pidgin and I went to the volume settings and moved the sliders all the way up and back down to the middle again.. after that it hasn't been the same.
$ aplay -l
**** List of PLAYBACK Hardware Devices ****
card 0: Intel [HDA Intel], device 0: ALC269 Analog [ALC269 Analog]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0
card 0: Intel [HDA Intel], device 1: ALC269 Digital [ALC269 Digital]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0
card 0: Intel [HDA Intel], device 3: HDMI 0 [HDMI 0]
Subdevices: 1/1
Subdevice #0: subdevice #0
$
$ uname -a
Linux r**** 3.0-ARCH #1 SMP PREEMPT Tue Aug 30 07:32:23 UTC 2011 i686 Genuine Intel(R) CPU U2700 @ 1.30GHz GenuineIntel GNU/Linux
$
My computer is an ACER Aspire 4810TZ

Nouveau has a bug currently. Other drivers have been fixed, nouveau not yet. The cause is the way cairo-1.12 does things, it required patches in X and all open drivers. Keep an eye on this: https://bugs.archlinux.org/task/29495
Also, unrelated to that, you don't have hardware opengl acceleration. You're probably missing nouveau-dri.

Line in recorde mostly noise and very low audio (please help)

i think i may be giving my client a lot of money back...
about 20 minutes into a video gig i realized that the line in audio i was getting on my camera was not working properly so i pulled the plug and jsut picked up from the camra mic, but i am left with about... 18 minutes of very very poor audio. are there any brave and generouse soundtrack pros who can tell me waht setting to apply to make this "listenable"
you can download a 30 second snipit here: http://www.video-guy.com/forums/ami_out_ofluck.zip
i have soundtrack, but rarely use it, so like i said. if anyone would be kind enough to hold my hand and tell me what buttons to push i would be very much in your debt.
heck, i'll even do some free photoshop, or final cut work for you.
thanks.

First off, yes you're pretty much out of luck. I listened to your sample, and there's probably nothing you could do to make this sound good. With enough filtering, you could make it so the voice is marginally intelligible, but it's never going to sound like a good recording.
Second, while this web forum is good for discussion about Soundtrack Pro's features and how to use them, I've found that Usenet has much more meaningful discussions on audio editing techniques in general. A couple newsgroups I read religiously are rec.arts.movies.production.sound and rec.audio.pro.

Emu 0404 USB - No sound thru headphones at the front - and very low volume

I can't get sound thru the headphones at the front of my Emu 0404 USB to monitor playback and recording. At the back, however, I can connect my headphones and also obtain sound but at a low level.
In sound settings the volume option is greyed, so no help there. I am using the Emu Asio ....otherwise the card seems good quality.
Morten

fangok wrote:
I can't get sound thru the headphones at the front of my Emu 0404 USB to monitor playback and recording. At the back, however, I can connect my headphones and also obtain sound but at a low level. In sound settings the volume option is greyed, so no help there. I am using the Emu Asio ....otherwise the card seems good quality.Morten
Do you mean you can't control volume in your software or system master volume controller at all? This normally means that you have not selected the system audio play/recording devices correctly or you have set output mode to bit-matched.
Also,
- you have a switch for Direct monitoring on top of the 0404 box
- w/ Some software, you can't enable direct monitoring in siftware settings
jutapa

Transfoming an Image-coming blurred and very low quality

hi all, i am new to indesign software and designing a document and the output of this will be a pdf. I have inserted an image into my document file and tried to transform it but i was unsuccessfull in this. the image came blurred and it does not have the quality. the Image format is jpeg. I have also tried inserting an image inside the allocated frame but still the problem is there. pls suggest..
Regards,
Vikas

Patience... A search of the forum would find that this has been discussed to death.
View>Display Performance>High Quality Preview.
May I suggest you invest in a good book? Sandee Cohen's Visual Quick Start Guide is a must for beginners: http://amzn.to/9w1Mh0
Best $20 you'll ever spend.
Bob

Very low volume using M-Audio O2 usb controller

When I attached my M-Audio O2 usb midi controller I get VERY low audio on garage band. Any ideas???

open Track "i"nfo, open "Details", click the pencil icon to the far right of the Generator popUp, and increase the volume.

How do I clean my mid 2007 iMac? The disk space is running VERY low and I would love an idea. I make videos and upload them to youtube and I need space to do that. Thanks for your time!

How do I clean my mid 2007 iMac?
The disk space is running VERY low and I would love an idea. I make videos and upload them to youtube and I need space to do that. Thanks for your time!
If you have an idea please respond!

You should never, EVER let a conputer hard drive get completely full, EVER!
With Macs and OS X, you shouldn't let the hard drive get below 15 GBs or less of free data space.
If it does, it's time for some hard drive housecleaning.
Follow some of my tips for cleaning out, deleting and archiving data from your Mac's internal hard drive.
Have you emptied your iMac's Trash icon in the Dock?
If you use iPhoto, iPhoto has its own trash that needs to be emptied, also.
If you store images in other locations other than iPhoto, then you will have to weed through these to determine what to archive and what to delete.
If you use Apple Mail app, Apple Mail also has its own trash area that needs to be emptied, too!
Look though other Apple Mail folders like the junk mail and delete the mail that is in there. Look through your sent items folders and see there is any mail in there that can be deieted.
Delete any old or no longer needed emails and/or archive to disc, flash drives or external hard drive, older emails you want to save.
Other things you can do to gain space.
Once you have around 15 GBs regained, do a search, download and install OmniDisk Sweeper.
This app will help you locate files that you can move/archive and/or delete from your system.
STAY AWAY FROM DELETING ANY FILES FROM OS X SYSTEM FOLDER!
Look through your Documents folder and delete any type of old useless type files like "Read Me" type files.
Again, archive to disc, flash drives, ext. hard drives or delete any old documents you no longer use or immediately need.
Look in your Applications folder, if you have applications you haven't used in a long time, if the app doesn't have a dedicated uninstaller, then you can simply drag it into the OS X Trash icon. IF the application has an uninstaller app, then use it to completely delete the app from your Mac.
Download an app called OnyX for your version of OS X.
When you install and launch it, let it do its initial automatic tests, then go to the cleaning and maintenance tabs and run the maintenance tabs that let OnyX clean out all web browser cache files, web browser histories, system cache files, delete old error log files.
Typically, iTunes and iPhoto libraries are the biggest users of HD space.
move these files/data off of your internal drive to the external hard drive and deleted off of the internal hard drive.
If you have any other large folders of personal data or projects, these should be archived or moved, also, to the optical discs, flash drives or external hard drive and then either archived to disc and/or deleted off your internal hard drive.
Good Luck!

I'm trying to play MIDI files in Quicktime. It works buy the volume is very low, even with both Quicktime and computer volume on max. What can I do?

I'm trying to play MIDI files in Quicktime. It works buy the volume is very low, even with both Quicktime and computer volume on max. What can I do?

I'm having the same issue. After opening Audio Midi Setup in Utilities I noticed that the master volume slider of the Built-In Output is very low. I am not able to slide to get any more level out of the system.
Can you adjust the master volume on your system?

MacBook Pro retina: Mid-range 13" or low-range 15"?

Hi,
I'm a second-year university student looking to get the latest MacBook Pro retina (switching from a PC). I have been to the store and tried both - I am very torn between getting a mid-range 13" (I want the 256GB SSD) or a low-range 15". With the Apple care, student discounts and tax (15% here), the difference in price comes down to $700 CAD. I am not sure whether spending this extra cash is worth is as I do not do any graphic or hardcore programming work. I use my laptop mostly to type notes, read and watch movies & TV series. I should mention that I will not consider MacBook Air, it's too thin for my taste (I feel like I will easily drop it or break it haha). Here are some pros and cons I've came up with - I wish to get some insight from all of you who have had experience with MacBook Pros:
13":
Pros:
1. About 1kg lighter in weight, the charger is also lighter than the one used for 15", so it will add up to be more than 1kg lighter --> more portable
2. Longer battery life (though I'll most likely be carrying around the charger anyway, I will almost always have somewhere to plug at school)
3. Cheaper ($700 CAD less than the 15")
Cons:
1. Smaller screen (I've never used a laptop under 15.4", I have no idea whether 13" is enough as a comfortable size to work with for long hours), maybe eyes will get tired more easily
2. Since there is less screen space, when working on programs such as Microsoft Office with multiple documents, have to spend little extra time adjusting size of the window or display (zoom in and such)
15":
Pros:
1. Bigger screen, which makes the "retina" part much more obvious and apparent --> nicer to watch videos and movies.
2. 16GB RAM, can "keep its value longer(?)" - I lack of a better way to say this... it seems like these things get upgraded quickly, 8GB may be good today, and next year the standard becomes 16GB. And since RAM is something important for most people, getting a 16GB feels like my laptop can withstand its value longer
Cons:
1. HEAVIER - this is what I'm more concerned about (please share your experiences with 15" rMBP's weight ). I'm afraid that although it doesn't feel much lighter when I hold it, and it's probably not that heavy with just the rMBP in the backpack - the extra weight might show during exam times when I have to carry more books around.
2. Price - Is the $700CAD worth it? Because the difference that I can really experience will probably be 1)the screen and 2) the RAM, since I only do ordinary business with my laptop. I know what the extra money is worth it for those professional users out there given the higher specs of the processor and graphics card, but I probably won't feel anything, right?
- but then, if the extra screen real estate can make me work more efficiently (share your experiences please, I would really like to hear them), and that it's not heavy, I do have the budget to pay the extra $700.
As you may be able to tell, I've done quite a lot of research, but I am still torn and don't know how to decide. I guess the biggest question is portability vs. extra screen space & retina experience. I would really appreciate if you could share your opinions and experiences! If you can convince me of which model to choose, I will be very grateful. I've been losing productivity for days just to think about this decision dilemma...
Thanks in advance!
Ellen

It is really a personnel choice. I myself would opt for the 15 inch because I consider the 13 inch has too small a screen and the 16 GB of memory is a plus.

Why am I getting very high values for the very low frequency region of a random signal?

I am tyring to produce a power spectrum graph for a Tachogram data, related to Heart Rate Variability Analysis. This data can be thought to be as a random signal, but has a frequency spectrum range of 0 - 1HZ.
The problem that I am facing is, I am getting very high values for very low frequency region, closer to DC value. Even the DC value is really high, in the range 10^8. It is suppose to be a low number. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Here is what my work is all about. I am trying to develop a software for Heart Rate Variability analysis. I am not sure if you are aware of heart beat waveforms, they are bunch spikes, occuring at irregular intervals. We have to do analysis on this waveform. How ? First we have to create a plot called Tachogram. This is done by, for example, let's name the first spike R1, the second one R2, and the third one R3, and so on. This is how the co-ordinate points are created. (R1, R2-R1), (R2, R3-R2), and so on...
Here R1 is the time instant at which the spike R1 occurs, and R2-R1 is the time difference between these peak occurences. So, if we plot these values, then it gives us one like what you saw on your time domain plot. What we have to do with this signal is, we have to apply FFT technique to produce its power spectrum for analysis. Generally the frequency range of the spectrum goes from 0 - 0.5 Hz. They part this range into VLF, LF, and HF, and analyze how much power is distributed in these regions. The distribution would tell you if you were stressed out,or have worked out, things like that. Normally, you can view spikes around LF, HF region. If you had viewed the power spectrum for the data that I sent, then that's what it pretty much looks like. I think I have said a lot about it now. Hope you get it.
We were talking about the "other component", I can't really see where it lies, must be in the 60-80 sec. range in the graph. If you look at the spectrum, I am getting a huge value around 0.0033 Hz, how do I minimize or remove this ?
Also, I am using Unevenly Spaced Signal Spectrum.vi, I am not sure what excactly is the unit for the Power Spectrum output. Technical Papers denote, Periodogram algorithm used by this VI, gives Power Spectral Density ? If that's right, then the unit is V^2/HZ.
Please advise.
Again, I should thank you for your time and effort.
I have to meet a deadline this week in finishing this project, and your help is immense to me at this point.
Thanks & Best Regards,

Very Low Frequency Converter

Hello
There are numerous devices that transmit audio via very low frequency (VLF). I quote:
"Carrier current devices are a combination of technologies. They are a cross between
wired microphones and subcarrier transmitters. The only difference is that the signal
is not transmitted via radio waves, but rather through a wire pair. A person cannot
accidentally intercept or detect a carrier current signal by simply tapping into a wire
like with wired microphones. A carrier current device works by picking up room audio
through a microphone. The signal from the microphone is then modulated by a low
frequency circuit, which produces a carrier current signal at approximately 100–200
kHz. A common example of carrier current devices are the newer wireless telephones,
intercoms, or baby monitor type devices that plug into the electric socket and use the
pre-existing wiring rather than having wiring run all over the house. A special circuit,
which can demodulate the low frequency signal, is used as the receiver.
Only a sophisticated receiver with a low frequency probe can detect this sort of device."
Can Audition modulate the signal back into an audible range?

At 100kHz, yes it's true - you'd need an audio interface running faster than twice the modulating frequency to demodulate all of the sidebands correctly. Not it's not absolutely impossible to do this, but it's a very expensive way of doing what hardware does very cheaply! To do this in Audition, you'd need initially to get the modulated carrier in (so if it was 100kHz, that would require an interface that runs at 200kHz to satisfy the Nyquist requirement) and all of the currently available crop appear to stop at 192k), and then run the signal through an envelope detector to capture the sideband signals. Problem is that Audition doesn't have the envelope detector, so you're stuffed anyway, even if you used 100Hz. 100Hz would give you all sorts of problems on top of this, because you'd have to use FM and then you'd have to deal with all of the reflected sidebands.
So to state this baldly, Audition is an audio editing program, not a radio receiver!
If you want to read more about this (and I should warn you that this gets complicated) then here are a few links:
Demodulation - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
audio-rate frequency modulation
http://www.secretmango.com/jimb/Whitepapers/radio/radio.html

Very low frequency caused by sample frequency in FFT analog input?

I'm measuring a very low frequency on my analog input, this frequency is in connection with the sample frequency of the Analog Input. At a sample frequency of 1000Hz I see a frequency of 0,05Hz in my FFT, at a sample frequency of 500Hz I see a frequency of 0,02Hz.
Attached is a screenshot of an example how I see this very low frequency.
My hardware: NI USB 6008 --> measuring on AI-0 (in this example the input is unwired). But in my real measurement I see the same FFT + signals I want to see (about 2 Hz).
In my real measurement I windowed the FFT (1-3Hz) so I see only the FFT I want to see. But I suspect that my complete signal moves along with this very low frequency of 0,05Hz. I saw this in my measerement.
What did I do wrong?
Attachments:
screenshot.JPG ‏66 KB

First, do you live in Europe? If so, that 50Hz could be power-line pick up.
Antialias filtering must be done in hardware before the DAQ. Because of the way aliasing works if you have sampled the signal it's already too late, you're hosed and no amount of digital filtering can remove the aliased signal. In terms of filter specifications, the filter cutoff needs to be at twice the highest frequency you are interested in seeing. For example, if you are looking for signals in the 2- to 5-Hz range, your antialiasing filter should cutoff at around 10Hz.
Obviously good signal management is also needed: shielding, appropriate signal termination, proper lead dress and spacing from known noise sources, etc...
Mike...
PS: There were no attachments to your last post.
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How come my macbook air has so little space. I deleted everything that I don't need and everything that has the most space I'm told NOT to delete. Everything I find is in either KB or very low MB.

How come my macbook air has so little space. I deleted everything that I don't need and everything that has the most space I'm told NOT to delete. Everything I find is in either KB or very low MB.

Check what is in your SSD/ storage on your macbook Apple Icon > about this mac > more info > STORAGE tab on top
recommend handy useful APPS such as :
Disk Expert
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/disk-expert/id488920185?mt=12
Disk Map
https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/disk-map/id715464874?mt=12
dont need them, but theyre very useful.
also the best is DAISY DISK
https://itunes.apple.com/app/daisydisk/id411643860?mt=12&ign-mpt=uo%3D4
See here for answer about the OTHER which is taking up space:
http://pondini.org/TM/30.html
and here:
http://pondini.org/OSX/DiskSpace.html
See Kappys excellent note on the rest of “other” files taking up your space:
What is "Other" and What Can I Do About It?
see here:
Your Solid State Drive and having enough space inside your Macbook Air & Pro
Solid State Drive usage premise, or the “more space / upgrade SSD” question
There have been questions posed and positions taken by many people who are trying to use their Macbook Air or Pro’s solid state drive (SSD) as a mass media storage device, for either pictures, videos, massive music collections or all three combined; but this should not be the working premise of a ‘limited’ SSD and its use.
In which, it’s the case of those users with either 128GB, 256GB, or even 512GB of internal SSD space, that have or are running “out of space”, that questions are raised. The immediate premise of some users can sometimes be “(how to / if) upgrading my SSD” when in fact in nearly all instances another approach is the logical and sensible one that needs to be looked into and exercised.
Any Macbook containing a SSD should be idealized as a ‘working platform’ notebook containing all your applications, documents, and weekly or bi-weekly necessary files. All collections of media files such as pictures, music, and videos, unless directly needed should be kept off the notebook and on an external hard drive or likewise. While the ‘working platform’ premise is also the case with larger internal conventional hard drives of 1TB+, its implementation isn't as critical except in terms of data protection.
Realistically, you should at most coordinate roughly 20 to 25% of your total SSD space to all audio-video personal use media (picture / music / video collections), leaving the remaining amount on an external HD.
Nobody should consider any notebook a data storage device at any time under any circumstance, rather a data creation, sending, and manipulation device; and in the case of a SSD, this is more important for purposes of having sufficient working space on the SSD and reducing SSD ‘bloat’ in which cases someone is wrongly attempting to use the SSD space as a large media storage nexus.
The rare exception to the collective usage and premise of SSD use in which a much larger SSD is truly needed are for those in video and photography professions that require both the extremely fast speeds of the SSD and the onboard storage for large and or many video and photography files. However this also falls under the premise of a ‘working platform’ for such peoples rather than the intent of many who are using the SSD as passive and static data storage for media files very infrequently needed or accessed.
All on-notebook data collections should be logically approached as to necessity, and evaluated as to whether it is active or passive data that likely doesn’t need to be on the notebook, allocations of space-percentages to as-needed work and use, apportioning space for your entertainment media, and questioning whether it should it be on the notebook for more than short-term consumption.
Considerations should be made in the mind of any user in differentiating the necessary system data (System hub) comprising the Mac OSX, applications, necessary documents that both must and should be on your internal SSD, and that of the users personal data (Data hub) comprising created files, pictures, music, videos, PDF files, data created or being created and otherwise, that likely unless being used soon or often should be parked on an external hard drive for consumption, or temporarily loading onto the internal SSD.
You both can and should purchase whichever SSD size you need or see fit, but even in the case of the largest of SSD, unless use-considerations are made, and SSD spaces are allocated as should be the case indicated above, one can easily and immediately run into this quandary of “needing more internal SSD space”, in which instance a different approach in usage must then be implemented.
However it is almost always the case, that such large media files are wanted to be stored internally rather than actually needed, in which case the external HD is both prudent as well as necessary. Additionally costs per MB are infinitely less on an external HD than an internal SSD in any consideration of data expansion needs.
A Professional Example
In the case of a Macbook Air or Macbook Pro Retina with ‘limited’ storage on the SSD, this distinction becomes more important in that in an ever rapidly increasing file-size world, you keep vital large media files, pics, video, PDF collections, music off your SSD and archived on external storage, for sake of the necessary room for your system to have free space to operate, store future applications and general workspace.
You should also never be put in the position of considering “deleting things” on your Macbook SSD in order to ‘make space’. This is especially what your external HD is for.
Professionals who create and import very large amounts of data have almost no change in the available space on their notebooks internal SSD because they are constantly archiving data to arrays of external or networked HD.
Or in the case of the consumer this means you keep folders for large imported or created data and you ritually offload and archive this data for safekeeping, not only to safeguard the data in case your Macbook has a SSD crash, or gets stolen, but importantly in keeping the ‘breathing room’ open for your notebook to operate, expand, create files, add applications, for your APPS to create temp files, and for general operation.
Slim USB3 1TB external hard drive
External Hard Drives
External hard drives are both extremely cheap and regardless of the size of your internal SSD (or even internal hard drive if the case), you need an external hard drive with your SSD equipped Macbook for several reasons:
1. Data backup and protection.
2. Redundancy for important data.
3. Necessitated ideal space for large media files for collections of pictures, videos, and music etc.
While ever changing in price, typical portable 2.5” external hard drives in USB3 run roughly $65 for 1TB or $120 for 2TB small portable USB3 hard drives. Such drives range in thickness between 5mm and 15mm, with recent improvements in storage of 500GB drives in 5mm profiles.
There is almost no premise in which a small 12mm thick 1 Terabyte USB hard drive cannot be taken along with any Macbook as an external large storage extension inside any Macbook carry case or pouch. Typically such external HD profiles are not much bigger than a deck of cards.
External hard drives are a foregone necessity for purchase with any Macbook for at the very least Time Machine backups, data redundancies, and ideally for large media storage.

Dirty mid-range frequency and very low vocal

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