Disabling Heat sensor?

My computer keeps shutting down, I think that it thinks it is running hot, but I feel the back and it is a normal temperature. My X Resource Graph says I am at 200 F, there is no way it is running that hot!
My fans REV up and go loud, but then the computer shuts down.
I usually have about 5-10 mins of usability on the machine.
It's been doing this for 3 weeks.
I have reset the SMU, PRAM, NVRAM, and nothing!
Can I disable the heat sensor so I can use my computer?

You definitely have a heat problem, I would call Apple as soon as possible, in the meantime, make sure that you have a bootable clone of your system, I use a firewire external drive and SuperDuper!.
There is no good reason to disable the heat sensor, it is there to protect the computer. Look at your Console system logs for any entry that say something like "maximum temperature exceeded for 30 seconds", that will tell you why your computer shuts down.
If you know your model, you might be eligible for one of these programs power supply or video and power issues.

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HT1212 my ipod screen is cracked and i can't sync my ipod on to itunes becauseit it is locked with a password and i can't enter the password because the heat sensor is messed up and i don't want t restore it and lose everything so how can i get passed tha

My ipod screen is cracked and i can't sync my ipod to itunes because it is locked with a password and i can't enter the password because the heat sensor is messed up on the ipod becasue of the screen and i don't want to restore it and lose everything. What can i do?!

All you can do is to restore and thus erase the iPod unless you can get a data recovery company to preserve the data.
Place the iOS device in Recovery Mode and then connect to your computer and restore via iTunes. The iPod will be erased.
iOS: Wrong passcode results in red disabled screen
If recovery mode does not work try DFU mode.
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings

IMac Intermittently Won't power on...bad heat sensor maybe?

So, I have a mid-2011 iMac 21.5" that I am having some apparent power issues with.
Note : About 8-10 months ago, I had the screen replaced under AppleCare due to a discoloration that started in the upper left corner of the LCD. I am not sure if this has any relevance, but wanted it included.
A couple months before this, I was experiencing an issue where the Mac would shut down on its own, hard, and then wouldn't turn back on. No bios post, no chime, no CD-rom noise, no nothing. I thought something was fried, and became very worried. I unplugged it for several days, and setup a Genius bar appointment. Before going, I decided to plug it in and try one more time. To my surprise, it worked and booted as if nothing at all was wrong. It ran for several days, and then did the same exact same thing. Turned off, wouldn't turn back on, left it unplugged for several hours, came back, worked fine. It continued this process for about a week or so off and on, as I troubleshot, but then eventually just stopped occurring and worked great.
Then a few weeks later the LCD went bad as described above, so I had it replaced. All was still fine after getting it back. We moved to a new home, and didn't have any issues for about 6 months or so, until the last 2 weeks, when the issue has started again, and is much more frequent. At this point, if I plug the iMac in, it will last for only about an hour at most, then will not turn back on until I leave the power cord unplugged for a couple of hours. I am testing it currently with varying amounts of time having the power cord unplugged. For example, incident occurred and I unplugged for 30 minutes. I then tried to plug in and turn on, and was greeted with the CD-Rom sound, and about half a chime, then it died. Almost like it is "charging" something inside that isn't holding power maybe...? I have entertained the thought that maybe the heat sensor either is going bad, or maybe it is getting hot inside, causing it to turn off, although I must say, the outside of the casing of the iMac is literally cool to the touch. For the past 6 months, the computer has been stored and used in a half-finished basement room, that at times can get to as low as 55-60 degrees fahrenheit, again not sure if that has any relevance.
I have tried resetting the SMC obviously by leaving it unplugged for so long, and I have tried resetting the PRAM/NVRAM by holding COMMAND+OPTION+P+R until the computer reboots, but this has had no effect on the machine and this issue.
I assume that since it won't even post to the Bios or chime, that this is likely not a hard disk issue? My biggest fear would be logic board of course.
My next step in troubleshooting is going to be to leave it unplugged for the next few hours, then hopefully get it to boot, install a temp monitoring program like iStatMenus or iStatPro and monitor to see if it is reporting a steep temperature increase, and go from there. If it is reporting a high hard disk temp, then I can try booting from an external hard disk and see if that has any different effect.
Anyone else have experience with this? If the temperature isn't actually high, but just reporting high, then I assume I will need to replace the Ambient Temperature Sensor, which looks fairly involved based on the iFixit article, would possibly look at having Genius Bar perform. Is there a way to disable the temp sensor temporarily to see if this is possibly the cause of the issue? I assume not, since if used incorrectly, you could seriously damage your machine.
Thank you everyone,

Unfortunately there is no cheap way to diagnose, I don't believe Apple charges for a diagnostic however it does require you take the machine to be looked at. You can also speak to an AASP and find out what they charge for a diagnositic, however even if you are able to physically do the repair yourself you have to locate the part(s( and Apple does not sell individual parts to consumers, they only do this to AASPs. However you can look on E-Bay but then a) aren't sure the part you buy is OK and b) are not 100% sure the part you buy is the offending part(s).
In short, it's probably cheaper to have a professional diagnose the issue and fix it.
Good luck!

Heat Sensor & Battery Question

Hi
Recently bought a used Macbook pro 2.4. While the guy was a schyster, it worked ok for a few months. But it started locking up on me and could not do a wakeup from sleep, and unable to do a hard reboot. Happened 3 times at critical moments so I got a replacement. In the meantimke took it to Apple Store Genius. Afetr keeping it for a day they said that:
a) the charger I was using had been swapped to a 60W one from a 13" MBP
b) the heating sensor on the logic board was bad. (It had gotten super while in comatose mode)
c) I swapped a full battery in from my duplicate MBP but I could not start it. After a day it did start so did a backup and moved on.
Does this sound like something the low power is causing which would be solved by replacing the charger?
Or is there a way to check the sensor with correct charger attached?
Thanks
Enio Cordoba

Thanks for the solution. I thought that was the answer but wanted to be sure. I took it apart, cleaned the processor and heatsink, then reassembled with new grease and all is well. While at it I changed the BIOS to enable the fan full time when plugged in. Is this necessary or should I disable the fan full time?
Thanks for the solution and help
Kevin

Random Shutdown Because of Heat Sensors?

I bought my white MacBook in mid-May (week 19 production) and it worked fine with the exception of a whine when I did not have the iSight Cam on, the occasional mooing after using the computer heavily then using the CPU lightly for a while, and the discoloration. If you ask me it wasn't that much of a set back because this computer was fast and reliable... or so I had thought!
All of a sudden about a week ago, after I had the discoloration fixed, thanks to AppleCare (which only took 5 days), my computer shut down randomly in the middle of light usage...
At first I had thought that my external hard drive was the problem and I was very upset that this had happened. I tried to reboot my computer, but all that would happen was the usual DVD drive start up sound and then it would turn off again. I tried about 5 times to restart it with no luck, so I walked away. About 20 minutes later I was able to start it back up...
After not using my external hard drive for a day, it happened again, in the middle of normal internet browsing and listening to music it randomly shutdown. I thought that maybe it was an OS 10.4.7 issue, because I had not had any problems with x.6, so I erased and restarted from scratch, and once again, another MacDeath. Once again, I thought it to be my fault in my installation of 2Gb of RAM. I re-installed the custom 2x256 RAM that came with the computer ( and will remain in my hands forever, because you can't even pay someone to take away a stick of 256Mb RAM these days) well after the old RAM was forcefully shoved back in, it died again! This is when I started to get mad...
I put up with the whinning, I put up with the heat, I put up with the discoloration (for a while), but now this? WHY!
Over the next week it happened almost daily and sometimes when I would turn on my computer after it being off for at least 5 hours, it would load my home screen and after about a minute I would hear the fan come on for a few seconds, and then it would die again. I noticed that most times that my MacBook would shutdown unexpectedly, the fan had just turned on for a few seconds or I was playing a game and the fan was already on...
So today I called AppleCare and I had to wait about 30 minutes before I talked to someone... (When I called last time about discoloration, the wait was about 5 minutes) So either there are more and more angry customers calling, or Apple is firing employees to increase their stock value...?
When I finally got through the man told me that it was most likely not the Logic Board, but instead FAULTY HEAT SENSORS and/or FAULTY HEAT SINK APPLICATION. I won't lie I have seen Core Duo Temp show readings as high as 91 C (about 196 degrees F). I knew that this things got hot, but not so hot as to start a fire if left on too long....
So I am getting a box from DHL tomorrow (woohoo) MacB. and I get to part ways again, but this time, from reading many threads, I assume our time apart will be much longer approaching around 2 WEEKS!!!
All I hope is that AppleCare will fix the heat sensors that are supposed to shutdown the computer when it gets overheated.... I have to go to school in about a month and I will not have time to deal with these kinds of issues! I really like the MacBook and all of it's features, but I did not sign up to get a MacDieOnMeBook!
APPLE USE SOME OF THE 24% SALE INCREASE THIS QUARTER TO HELP YOUR LOYAL CUSTOMERS WHO HAVE BEEN WITH YOU THROUGH THE GOOD AND THE BAD!
MB 2GHz White 2GB RAM - 250 GB External HD Mac OS X (10.4.6)

As of yet i'm not exactly sure about the heatsink problem, although a few in here have reported machines that work well after having this part replaced, while others who only had the MLB replaced reported a recurrence of the problem.
as for the volume indicator, i noticed that mine did that too, but it was in fact muted whether or not the tool bar indicated it. i dismissed this as a small quirk, similar to when my volume indicator didnt change as i pressed the volume buttons on my old laptop. but so long as there was an acknowledging "squirt" noise on the computer indicating change of volume, that shouldnt be a problem.
good luck withyour MB

Heat Sensor Temperature chip replacement

I have been battling the high fan speeds, tried everything suggested on this great forum. I recently installed G4FanControl and to my surprise it opens and doesn't even recognize any of the 3 sensor temps or threshold, just says "n/a" So, my theory is that my heat sensor temperature chip is bad and I need to replace it.
Here is my question. I noticed a heat sensor chip located above the hard drive, I even went to great lengths of moving it to the back of the tower for better airflow, no luck. Is this the actual chip I need to replace? or is there another one I am missing. All my fans run at constant speeds, not turbo jet, but very loud and constant. CPU temps are only 27.9 C.
has anyone replaced this chip with any success? Here is a link to one listed on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260310799941&trksid=p3907.m32&trkparms=tab%3DWatching
It looks like the chip near the hard drive. Part number 922-6559
Thanks

yes, the recalibration was free! they did order the heat thermal sensor part, it was $14.00. However, I didn't need it and they didn't charge me for it. The disc was interesting, It was a burned copy and had no name on it. They were very secretive with it. I asked what the software was called and he didn't really answer my question. It was some sort of trouble shooting software that ran for 20 min. and told what, if anything, was wrong with your computer. It said my CPU's were failed in the beginning....which is false because my computer ran just fine prior. He seemed to know right away that all it needed was to be recallibrated. And he was right!

Heat Sensor on SATA Drive (iMac G5)

The hard drive on my iMac crashed and I am in the process of replacing it.
I followed the "any SATA is OK" rule and bought a Seagate/300 750G.
As I try to install it, I see the it does NOT have any attachment point for the small heat sensor wire.
Does that mean it doesn't need a heat sensor? Is it OK to just let the wire dangle? Or should I go back and get a different kind of drive?

Dennis - I see you have vowed to make backups regularly, the easiest way, I have found, is to use SuperDuper!, it will make an excellent clone of your system, and then it makes regular scheduled incremental back-ups. You set the schedule and as long as you remember to have your firewire drive connected, you're all set! The first clone will take a long time, the following incremental back-ups are much faster, I schedule them for very early in the morning, before I get up, so the computer is all set without being used to write the backup.
Hope this gets you started on the virtuous road,
Miriam

Fan Runs With Case Open Bad Heat Sensor?

I have an HP Pavilion 670y. I have a fan that runs for long periods of time and then stops and then starts again. I decided to run my computer with the case open to make sure which fan was running before buying a new power supply if it was that fan. Found it was the lower fan. The fan has less stops and starts with the case open but still has periods where it runs for a few minutes and then stops and starts. Since I have the case open I can't see how the computer could be overhaeting. Could it be a bad heat sensor? If it is can the heat sensor be replaced or is it hardwired?
This question was solved.
View Solution.

The HP support does not find a PC with that model number, however, units with a number of that nature of number are usually older units.
It is not clear as to what fan is considered the "lower fan". The case fan may do as indicated, but a fan on the CPU or video card do not normally cycle. Maybe include a picture? Click on the tree icon next to the chain "link" or ladder "video" icon to post a picture.
{---------- Please click the "Thumbs Up" to say thanks for helping.
Please click "Accept As Solution" if my help has solved your problem. ----------}
This is a user supported forum. I am a volunteer and I do not work for HP.

Heat sensors

Does anyone know if mac pro has heat sensors for the cpu or hard drives?
G4 Dual 1.25, mac pro 3.66 Mac OS X (10.4.7)

Wow I was expecting hot temps such as 60-80C just
like the MB and MBP
thanks i'm gonna test one today and see if i want
one
Hi Graeme43,
Today t° is higher:
http://peloche.smugmug.com/photos/93434559-L.jpg
Peloche

Satellite C55-B5353 - how to disable touchpad sensor?

I'm using Windows 8.1 on a Toshiba Satellite C55-B5353. I need to disable the touchpad sensor. It's driving me crazy.
I never use swipes or touchpad gestures...I rely exclusively on keyboarding and manual use of a mouse. But on this computer, because of the touchpad sensor, I cannot type, keyboard, or use my mouse efficiently. That's because the sensor makes my cursor jump, or causes pages to scroll up and down, etc.
I've tried using the F5 key and the FN+F9 keys. It doesn't work.
Can someone please tell me what to do about this problem? I can't get any work done until I find a solution. I don't know if the problem is the Satellite C55-B5353 or Windows 8.1.

Satellite C55-B5353
I've tried using the F5 key and the FN+F9 keys.
It should be either F5 or Fn + F5. See the top of p. 146 in the User's Guide.
Satellite/Satellite Pro C40/C50/C70-B Series User’s Guide
-Jerry

Disable Light Sensor ThinkPad Yoga (how)?

I give up... how do I disable the automatic light sensor on the Thinkpad Yoga?
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Okay.. I'm laughing. I cannot believe I couldn't find this solution on my own.
THANK YOU EVERYONE... this worked.
That light sensor sure is crazy sensitive. I'm wondering if at some point we might see an improved driver come out.
Cheers,
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Low Battery Automatically Disable Orientation Sensor and Wifi

Hi,
My new Encore 2 WT8 automatically turns off orientation sensor and WIFI whenever the battery is below certain level. The orientation sensor and WIFI will remain disable even after the tablet is fully charged eventhough Device Manager shows that they are enabled. Reboot the tablet won't help either. The only way to reactivate them is to disable and enable them from Device Manager manually. Is there a way to keep them alive even the battery is low?
Thanks and best regards,

Thanks, Peter. I googled about the issue and found that it's quite common. However, I can't find any solution to it except disable/enable the sensor and adapter to get them functional again. As such, I believe this is manufacturer's responsibility to fix it. Can you point me to the direction where I can draw Toshiba's attention to fix such problem without incurring support fee?
Thanks.

Faulty Temperature Sensor?

Recently, I was given an old Mac g4 15" Powerbook that the owner no longer wanted. This is the first Mac I have owned as well as the first laptop. It worked fine for me for several weeks, and I got a new battery and upgraded the RAM. Then it started putting itself to sleep seemingly randomly, while I was in the middle of using it. It's fine for a little while upon turning on, and then may start to do this every minute. I changed the battery and memory back to the original pieces, the problem persists. The last time, it would not wake up at all. I finally took out the battery and power cord and held down the power button and restarted it.
Looking around online, I have found other people experienced this 'narcoleptic computer' issue with g4s, but no clear solution. The consensus seems to be a faulty trackpad temperature sensor sends the computer into sleep. I checked my system.log and found emergency overtemp warnings at the times it was sent to sleep. I downloaded Temperature Monitor and found that the trackpad temp would spike way up and down while the other temperatures remained consistent. Sometimes there is no temperature reported for the trackpad at all, at times it behaves normally until the computer is jostled, leading me to believe it might be an issue with something come loose.
Is this something that has been resolved? I saw a couple suggestions to open it up an remove the trackpad temperature sensor entirely, does anyone know if that fixes the problem in the long term? I have also tried resetting the pram and the pmu, setting the power saver preferences to never put it to sleep, trashing my power saver preference files, disabling bluetooth, and running the computer off the power cord only with no battery. Next I will try opening the whole thing up and tightening everything I can see to tighten.
I know it's getting up there in years, but the computer worked fine for what I wanted until this started. I would be very grateful for any advice on how to deal with this issue.

Hello Kate,
The track-pad heat sensor is +*one of the causes*+ of narcoleptic powerbooks, but from my experience it is more usually related to a faulty keyboard. Sticky or bent keys, dirt, soda, faulty light sensor are more likely the cause. It is highly unlikely anything has become lose inside the machine as all factory fitted screws are sealed with a lock-tight adhesive or equivalent. Try turning off the illuminated keyboard (F8) and see if it persists. Opening the machine is not a bad idea although, you will find very little in the way of visual determiners. Open it up and give it a good clean out. A small soft paint brush and a can of compressed air will do the job. Just be careful to blow the garbage out and not deeper into the machine.
A suggestion to pin-pointing the problem: Can you hook it up to an external display, keyboard and mouse? If so, start the computer, close the lid and wake it with the external mouse. See if the problem persists. If it does, at least you know the track pad sensor is fine and it must be related to the keyboard or a general overheating issue, which may be something as simple as a faulty stick of RAM.

How can I Loose the Heat or Fan Control in G4 Tower?

I have a G4 FW 800 Tower that is running hotter with 10.5.x and knowing that heat kills hardware, I'd like to use the existing internal fans that do a great job when they fire up, to cool it down as I have seen them do. I have a temperature monitor app that uses the internal sensors to guage heat and have seen a dynamic change possible. I have a Dual PCI Bay fan that helps, but the biggest difference is when the 6 Speed Internal Fans kick in at Start, Restart, Single User Mode, Safe Mode even for a few minutes I have seen a 13-20 degree drop in temperature. So if I could get these fans to ramp up above level 1-2 that they do during normal operation the CPU, Motherboard, Optical and Hard Drives could be nicely cooled. And I don't mind the sound because at level 6 it's not all that bad. Plus if there are internal heat sensors, why are there nothing for them to really do. Like fire the fan up to level 4-5-6 when this start getting hot. OR as I have seen conspiracy theorists post that this is Apples way to limit the life of the hardware? Anyway. . .
I know that there are applications for laptops, I have installed many, that allow you to control their fans. Where is one for desktop machines? Are there any? If not, why? I would imagine that one would want the same control and benefits from it since Apple seems to have not done anything here. Although I would loose my little space heater that is serving me very well this cold Winter. I'd rather have cold hardware.
So . . . .
Any information will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks . . .
. . . tg

Thanks for the reply, but this firmware update is for the Dual Boot "Wind Tunnel" models where the fans would race when running OS9. I have a FW800 that is not a Dual Boot and thank God not a "Wind Tunnel", matter of fact this replaced a WT and is was next generation and last of the G4's.
I have found a couple of utilities that are for the Intel's with SMC, but it looks as though my model, sure 'nuf, does not have the architecture to support this type of control. With the way the fans run on their own there has to be something there that controls them that can be tapped into. I can only pray someone has tapped it! Fingers Crossed.

How to disable Auto Brightness? using windows 8

Hi,
This auto brightness problem is been bothring me for a long time now, and i can't find any fix for it at all
the display goes:
- Bright when having on screen a white web page, document, picture
- and it display dims down when having on screen a dark web page/ documente or picture
i tried everything i can find in forums to stop it but no success at all :'(
Note 1:
I changed the settings and Turn off Auto Brightness in windows 8 advaced power plan settings
Note 2:
i tried to go disable the AMD Vari-Bright but the windows 8 AMD catalyse controle center, but it doesn't have that option to turn in off :/
Note 3:
I did disable the Sensor Monitoring Service in services.msc menu .. but still didn't do the trick :/
Note 4:
i did disabled Intel Display Power saving Technology in intel's graphic and media Control Panel and .. with all this, still, the auto brithtness problem isn't solved :/
now .. i really have no idea what to do, with all this attepemts and still can't get rid of it, i start losing hope i can use my laptop without the screen changing brighness on its own, watching a movie and browsing the web with the screen flickers to adapte to the background, its a terrible situation, i just can't see why HP or other gpu manufacturesee this as solution to anything, its just a continuous headache that i can't get rid of
Please, i need your help guys, if someone found a solution to this .. tell me (and the others who might have the same problem) how to solve it
Thanks a lot
This question was solved.
View Solution.

wow...none of all this worked for me for the same problem ! and wow ur last solution #Waterboy71 really did it ! (sarcastic) i will quote #imadous : Note 1:
I changed the settings and Turn off Auto Brightness in windows 8 advaced power plan settings
so now i am like duh ! did u even read this page or u just googled it and u copy pasted one of googles useless solutions ! which he already tried WE ALL DID u guys better fix this crap we all already googled it too and hey guess what they dont know how to fix it ! so what about since u guys "work for HP" to fix it for us ! since its a pain in the butt ! or wait u guys dont use HP laptops ? fix it or find us who can fix it in HP the whole company !

Disabling Heat sensor?

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