Disconnect+reconnect external display = washed out image

hi guys
I need some expert help on this. Using a Dell E178 WFP external display on my 2010 Macbook Pro via mini-DVI-to-VGA adapter. This display has no EDID it seems so I use SwitchResX to create the necessary resolution override (1440x900). SwitchResX has nothing such as daemons or helpers installed on top, so this boils down to graphics drivers.
My problem: When I reboot the machine, the display has the necessary brightness, contrast, and colour balance. If I unplug the display, wait a sec, then plug it back in, the image comes up very bright and washed out, and I can't get a "true" black out of the display.
What this isn't: I have a ColorSync profile, and make sure it is successfullly loaded, i.e. I go through the trouble of opening up system preferences>displays>color to make sure it reloads. This is not a ColorSync problem. It is not the 2.2 vs 1.8 gamma problem either. Ctrl+shift+eject does not fix it. Creating a new colour profile does not fix it either. The usual SMC, permissions, safe boot, etc tricks don't work either.
Apple engineers have sent me a copy of TimingSnoop but were baffled by the display having a "fake" EDID (when run without SwitchResX TS detects no EDID at all). Since I refused to roll back my entire system to 10.6.4 or uninstall SwitchResX (it does not interfere??) they closed the bug stating "insufficient information".
10.6.4 did not have this problem, and my hardware is perfectly fine.
Rolling back the graphics to 10.6.4 fixes this issue (but creates other issues)
I'm looking for information on this. Has anyone had the same happen? Is it confined to sans-EDID displays?
Have googled a lot but I'm running out of search terms... Anything could be of help?
Thanks in advance.

Again, this is not the gamma problem that's fixed by just opening the display preferences and resetting the colour profile.
This seems to be somehow related to the display's EDID and the video adapter (Nvidia) not resetting properly when first unplugged and then plugged back in. My support request with Apple is more than a year old in total now and replies have been trickling but all of them add little (if anything at all) to a fix.
My particular problem is finding these "a lot of" people who are experiencing this problem. Everyone I've seen so far talks about the gamma/colours problem, never about the brightness and reboot. So yours is the first instance of someone having exactly the same problem. Hopefully we can find more people? Do you know where I should be looking?
Another idea I've had is to possibly talk to the OSX86 community? If Apple are not interesting in issuing a fix for this, maybe someone else has done some work? After reviewing Apple's code (at least that part which is made public) I'm pretty convinced this is in Nvidia's territory, and that gives me very little hope..
I'm interested to know if this has been fixed on Lion at all..? Ideas?

Similar Messages

  • Audio stops when reconnecting external display [OSX10.10]

    When I disconnect and reconnect an external monitor, the audio stops.
    Audio appears to continue playing, but there is no sound.
    Reproducable steps:
    OS: OSX 10.10 Yosemite
    Hardware: Macbook Pro 13" Retina Mid 2014, 16Gb RAM
    System Information: http://cl.ly/image/0H1p032w0M0w
    1. Laptop connected to external display with Display Port cable
    2. Headphones connected, music playing
    3. Disconnect External display
    4. Reconnect External display
    5. Music stops playing
    Current Workaround:
    1. Stop music
    2. Unplug headphones
    3. Plug headphones back in
    4. Resume music

    Based on this post, I picked up a Ground-Loop Isolator ($17 at my local Radio Shack), connected it, and (so far) it's working perfectly. Dead silence.
    MacBook Pro C2D   Mac OS X (10.4.8)  

  • 4K TV not recognized correctly: MacBook Pro Mid2014 15" reports a Samsung UE40HU6900 4K TV as 8K (7680x4320). This results in an ugly, washed out image half the size it should be. Is there a fix for this? (OSX 10.10.1)

    MacBook Pro Mid2014 15" reports a Samsung UE40HU6900 4K TV as 8K (7680x4320).
    This results in an ugly, washed out image half the size it should be. If you turn off scaling everything is tiny as 8K are displayed on a 4K screen. To get the actual 4K resolution you have to turn on scaling. Still 8K is transferred to the device, but doubling the data lines makes the picture look washed out and create obscure effects for line borders.
    Did anybody encounter this problem before? Is there a fix for this? (OSX 10.10.1)

    You have the MacBookPro6,2, the Edsel of Macs. It may be covered by this program:
    MacBook Pro (15-inch, Mid 2010): Intermittent black screen or loss of video
    Make a "Genius" appointment at an Apple Store to have the machine tested.
    Print the first page of the panic report and bring it with you.
    Back up all data on the internal drive(s) before you hand over your computer to anyone. If privacy is a concern, erase the data partition(s) with the option to write zeros* (do this only if you have at least two complete, independent backups, and you know how to restore to an empty drive from any of them.) Don’t erase the recovery partition, if present.
    *An SSD doesn't need to be zeroed.

  • !HELP! Washed out images

    What can I do to fix washed out images caused by spotlights in a theatre. The theatre is dark with a single and sometimes two spotlights on the stage.

    In the future....
    1) Man both cameras
    2) Use Manual Controls
    3) lock your shutter at 60... set gain to 0dB (or as low as possible if you need extra gain)
    4) activate the cameras zebra stripes
    5) control your exposure using the iris
    if you don't know how to activate your camera's zebras check the documentation for your camcorders. if you don't know how to use the zebras to judge exposure there is plenty on the internet about it.
    Get the best footage you can at the shooting stage. You can do more with SLIGHTLY underexposed footage, as video holds more detail in the blacks than the highlights. Once you overexpose (clip) your video signal there is no information to work with. Just white.
    PowerMac G5 2.7GHZ, 3.5GB Ram, 2x 250GB Sata, 2x 250GB G-Drive, Kona LH   Mac OS X (10.4.9)   Final Cut Studio, PS:CS2, Shake, BitVice

  • Disconnecting from external display changes background, disconnect server shares, inactivates desktop icons.

    I have a user working on a MacBook Pro, Lion OS X 10.8.2, connected to an external display. When disconnecting from the external display the background picture changes, he can’t open documents saved to desktop, and the connection to the server shares is lost.  Rebooting does not resolve the issue while it is disconnected from the external display.  If he reconnects the MacBook back to the external monitor sometimes he has to reboot to get everything back to normal.  It almost seems like it is logging him into a different account or profile or something like that (please excuse my messy terminology as most of our users are still using PCs).  However if you look at what account is logged in, it is still the same account that he logged in with that morning.  The Mac is not authenticating to the network, just connecting to server shares.  Has anyone experienced this issue before and if so is there a fix for it?

    The Mac has a long history of assuming that ANY adapter still present means the display is still present -- you need to remove the adapter as well as the cable, if present.
    So my theory articulated above is that the disconnect is not registered correctly. This would mean that the second display is still seen as present. You could check this by invoking:
    System Preferences > Displays ...
    and looking for the Arrange pane (shown above) which is ONLY present when multiple displays are attached. More detailed information can be found in About this Mac  > ( More info ) Graphics & Displays ...
    ... specifically the NAME of each attached display is shown or an indication (no display connected):
    ATI Radeon HD 4870:
      Chipset Model:          ATI Radeon HD 4870
      Type:          GPU
      Bus:          PCIe
      Slot:          Slot-1
      PCIe Lane Width:          x16
      VRAM (Total):          512 MB
      Vendor:          ATI (0x1002)
      Device ID:          0x9440
      Revision ID:          0x0000
      ROM Revision:          113-B7710C-176
      EFI Driver Version:          01.00.318
      Displays:
    Cinema HD:
      Resolution:          2560 x 1600
      Pixel Depth:          32-Bit Color (ARGB8888)
      Display Serial Number:          CY8360UFXMP
      Main Display:          Yes
      Mirror:          Off
      Online:          Yes
      Rotation:          Supported
    Display Connector:
      Status:          No Display Connected

  • Costco and soft proofing show dull washed out image

    OK, so I am trying to utilize my nearest costco to print some images from lightroom 5. I am getting back dull washed out prints.
    Facts:
    I shoot in RAW in manual mode
    I am using sRGB when I do my post processing
    I export to jpg for printing
    I used the costco LR5 plugin from Alloyphoto to upload to Costco
    I have installed the printer profiles from drycreek for the specific location/printer and have chosen the correct profile as I export
    I made sure that I chose to have Costco NOT autocorrect the color
    Even when I use LR5's soft proofing, I get the same result on my monitor
    I checked the print I got back and it says that they did NOT autocorrect (taken with a grain of salt)
    The machine they are using is a Noritsu QSS-A, so I know my profile is correct
    I have attached a screen shot of what I am seeing.
    Why am I seeing this on my soft proofing as well as my prints?
    How can I solve this and get vibrant prints?
    Any advice would be helpful.
    Message was edited by: moviebuffking

    moviebuffking wrote:
    I have calibrated my monitor as good as I can get without specific hardware. I have 18 years experience calibrating monitors (via optical media and my eyes), so I know that mine is very close.
    It is virtually impossible to "accurately" set the Luminance, Gamma, and Color temperature "by eye." This is most likely the cause of your prints not matching the screen image you see in LR. That being the monitor's Luminance (i.e. Brightness) level is too set to high.
    http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/colour_management/prints_too_dark.html
    To see if this could be your problem I downloaded the posted screen shot and cropped out the 'Copy' image, which has your adjustments applied to it. Here are my results:
    Click on image to see full-size
    I needed to apply a full F stop (+1.0 EV) of Exposure correction to achieve a good midtone brightness level for the print image. You'll notice I also added -50 Highlights and +50 Shadows along with +25 Vibrance. I bet the image with my adjustments added looks way too bright on your uncalibrated monitor.
    You have two (2)  issues–Monitor Calibration and LR Basic Panel Control Adjustments
    Monitior Calibration
    I would highly recommend investing in a hardware monitor calibrator such as the X-Rite i1 Display and ColorMunki, or Datacolor Spyder models. If you tell me what make and model monitor you are using I can recommend specific calibrators.
    Temporarily you can try adjusting the monitor "by eye" to get it closer to the desired 120cd/m2 Luminance, 2.2 Gamma, and 6500K Color Temperature using the test patterns at this site:
    http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/
    When the monitors Brightness and Contrast controls have been correctly set the screen image should look much closer to the prints you have recently made with the LR Soft Proof adjustments. So in fact you will be adjusting the monitor to make it look bad with the LR adjustments you applied. The proper monitor settings will make the Lagom test patterns look correct AND should make your bad Costco prints now match the screen image using you original LR settings.
    After changing the monitor's Brightness and Contrast settings try readjusting a few of the  image files you had printed and send them to Costco as check prints. Compare them again to your monitor's screen image. They should be much better!
    LR Basic Panel Tone Control Adjustment
    LR's PV2012 Tone controls can provide much improvement to your raw image Highlight and Shadow detail. Start with all of the Tone controls at their '0' default settings and adjust them from the top-down in the order shown below.
    1. Set Exposure for the midtone brightness ignoring the highlight and shadow areas for now. Setting Exposure about +.5 EV higher than what looks correct for the midtones seems to work best with most images.
    2. Leave Contrast at 0 for now. You’ll adjust this after the first pass.
    3. Adjust Highlights so that blown out areas are recovered and “fine tonal detail” is revealed.
    4. Adjust Shadows to reveal fine detail in dark areas. For most normal images simply setting -Shadows = +Highlights (Example -50 and +50) works very well.
    5. The Whites control sets the white clipping point, which you can see by holding down the ALT key as you move the slider. Adjust it to the point where you see clipping just appear with the ALT key.
    6. The Blacks control sets the black clipping point, which you can see by holding down the ALT key as you move the slider. Adjust it to the point where you see clipping just appear with the ALT key.
    7. Now go back and adjust the Contrast control to establish the best midtone contrast.
    8. Lastly touchup the Exposure control for the best midtone brightness.
    9. If necessary “touch-up” the controls using the same top-down workflow.
    moviebuffking wrote:
    Am I correct in assuming that the soft proof (with a certain profile) is a "preview" of what that print will look like?
    Soft Proof does two things. It shows you what the image's colors will look like in the target color space (i.e. printer profile). You can see what (if any) colors are "out of gamut" by clicking on the small icon in the upper-righthand corner of the Histogram. You can also see if any of the colors fall out of your monitor's gamut by clicking on the small icon in the upper-lefthand corner of the Histogram.
    When you check 'Simulate Paper & Ink' the Soft Proof image's contrast and color saturation are changed to make it look closer to what the "reflective" print image will look like when held next to the monitor for comparison. Many people have difficulty using 'Simulate Paper & Ink' since it requires using precise light levels for viewing the print and a well calibrated monitor.
    In summary my best suggestion is to purchase and use a good hardware monitor calibrator on a scheduled basis to insure you have an "accurate" screen image inside LR and other color managed applications like PS.

  • Problem with Display,The color of display washed out!!!

    i got problem with the screen. the color around corner of display and 6 rounds circle spot in middle of display, it looks like washed out( become white) when i view it on black background it looks more stand out. What can i do now? i only have Iphone 4s on 24/10/11

    BBMX_777 wrote:
    The Apps that not show the version number are all, for example, BlackBerry Messenger, Notes, BrickBraker, etc..
    There is a way to restore the device's OS?
    Interesting problem...I would agree that the OS likely needs to be reloaded..see this process:
    http://supportforums.blackberry.com/t5/BlackBerry-Device-Software/How-To-Reload-Your-Operating-Syste...
    Good luck!
    Occam's Razor nearly always applies when troubleshooting technology issues!
    If anyone has been helpful to you, please show your appreciation by clicking the button inside of their post. Please click here and read, along with the threads to which it links, for helpful information to guide you as you proceed. I always recommend that you treat your BlackBerry like any other computing device, including using a regular backup schedule...click here for an article with instructions.
    Join our BBM Channels
    BSCF General Channel
    PIN: C0001B7B4   Display/Scan Bar Code
    Knowledge Base Updates
    PIN: C0005A9AA   Display/Scan Bar Code

  • External Display Blacks Out

    I have MacBook Pro 13" (early 2011) hooked up to an external display. With Snow Leopard this setu worked fine. But after upgrading to Lion the external screen constantly blacks out. I've seen some suggestions saying that it might be the adapter but, as I said, this setup worked fine in Snow Leopard so I find it unlikely to be an adapter issue.
    Does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this problem? It's extremely annoying.

    This has been fixed in one of the latest OS updates.

  • ITunes Visualizer on External Display Blacks Out Main Display

    Is it possible to have the iTunes Visualizer full screen on an external display while keeping the main display active?
    In other words, I'd like to have my 2nd monitor display the iTunes Visualizer in full screen while I do work on my main screen. Every time I try this it forces the main screen to go black.
    Does anyone have a solution, or is this just the limitations of iTunes and/or the Mac?
    (By the way, the closest I've come is to put the iTunes window on the 2nd display, start the visualizer, and make its window as large as it will go. But, you still see the top of the iTunes chrome above and below the visualizer.)

    I realise this is an old post, but have not yet seen an explanation of how I have solved this problem.
    Its not a complete solution as it only works if you want to use iTunes, and does require an iPad or an iPhone.
    First configure the Apple remote App on your iPhone, or iPad, or both   iPad is best, but iPhone works almost as well.
    Check that you can control the music from your i'Device'
    Drag the iTunes window onto the external screen/projector.   I am assuming external monitor with a different screen geometry to main screen, but if you can handle some gaps, you can mirror displays just as well.
    Turn on the Visualiser - and put it into full screen.
    If you can't see the external screen the following short cuts are useful. 
    ⌘T - turn on Visualizer
    ^⌘F - turn on Full Screen
    Your main screen will blank out, but you will still have full control of your music from the Remote App.
    Very cool if you are having a party, and want the visualiser on the large LCD TV, or on a projector. 
    Steve

  • Washed-out images in Lightroom 2.4

    Beginner's question-Help, please.  Images taken in Nikon D700 show perfect lighting in camera's LCD.  Now, when imported into Lightroom 2.4, lighting becomes washed out.
    Help, please!

    Most probably there is a develop preset applied on import.
    In the Import Dialog, on the right side, in the panel <Apply during Import> select <None> for "Develop Settings".
    If you don't see this you have to expand the Import Dialog by clicking on the small triangle on the bottom left.

  • HT6114 external display cutting out

    since the new update every few minutes my external display keeps cutting out and have to unplug and re plug the hdmi cable back in

    Hey there jamie0105,
    It sounds like your external monitor is not funcitoning correctly with the computer after updating to Mavericks even after reseating your HDMI cable. I recommend these troubleshooting steps from the article named:
    Apple computers: Troubleshooting issues with video on internal or external displays
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1573
    Reset the system
    You can reset the Mac's parameter RAM and SMC.
    Reset the resolution
    Start by resetting the Mac's parameter RAM. If the display does not come up, was previously set to an unsupported resolution, and still results in no video:
    Start up in Safe Mode.
    From the Apple () menu, choose System Preferences.
    Choose Displays from the View menu to open the preferences pane.
    Select any resolution and refresh rate that your display supports.
    Restart your computer.
    Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
    All the very best,
    Sterling

  • Lost file associations when disconnecting/reconnecting external hard drive

    Dear iTunes pros,
    I have a question that I haven't been able to find an answer to despite searching various forums.
    I used to have all my music in the iTunes Music folder on my local drive. But some time ago I added to the iTunes library a lot of music that I had on my external hard drive - importantly, when adding it, I did not choose the consolidate library option as 1) I don't have enough space on C:\ to move all that music from the external hard drive to the iTunes Music folder on C: 2) for that particular collection I wanted to keep my original folder structure and not have it rearranged by iTunes according to the standard artist/album/file format.
    Everything was well until I disconnected the external drive and reconnected it again. Now iTunes cannot play any of the files that I have on the external drive -- I get an exclamation point next to each one saying that the original file cannot be found.
    This would be normal if I tried to play these files with the hard drive disconnected -- obviously then iTunes cannot locate the files as they are not there on the system.
    But once I have reconnected the external hard drive, shouldn't the cross-references in the iTunes library files work correctly again? I have not changed anything with the files, the paths remain correct, so why can't iTunes see the files? (Let me add that there is nothing wrong with the hard drive -- I can easily play the files with other players - or even with iTunes! - if I simply go to their location on the external drive and double-click on them)
    How do I get my file associations back? Let me add that I don't want to consolidate my library at this moment.
    I hope there is an easy way to do this as obviously manually reconnecting several thousand library entries to files is not an option.
    I will be immensely grateful for any ideas.

    My guess is that the drive letter to your external drive has changed. This can happen with Windows if you don't affix it to a specific letter permanently. Try this:
    1- Check to see what letter Windows currently has assigned to your external drive. Next you need to check to see what iTunes thinks the letter should be. If you know that the drive letter changed and remember what it was, skip step #2 & 3.
    2- Locate your "iTunes Library.xml" file and make a copy. Open the copy with Excel if you have it, Internet Explorer can also open it.
    3- Look for an entry like "file://localhost/E:/My%20Music ..." In this example iTunes knows my files are on my E:/ drive. Close the copy of the .xml file.
    4- If iTunes and Windows are reporting different letters then you need to tell Windows what the letter should be. Go to Windows Disk Management and assign the letter that iTunes last used for the drive. I believe there is an option to make the letter permanent.
    5- Open iTunes and you should be good to go.

  • Adobe Illustrator files display washed out

    Since Preview and other apps such as Keynote and Pages handle Adobe Illustrator files, I have to wonder why they display all washed out, whether there are copy and pasted or the file is actually opened in the program.
    http://www.revvvv.com/example1.jpg

    What version of Adobe Illustrator are you viewing the files in?
    Is the document color mode CMYK or RGB? How are the "black" areas of the art defined?
    In other words, is the black defined as:
    C: 0
    M: 0
    Y: 0
    K: 100
    Or, is it defined as a "rich" black, for example:
    C: 60
    M: 50
    Y: 50
    K: 100
    I'm not sure about versions of Illustrator prior to CS3, but recall that Illustrator CS3 and CS4 have a preference for "Appearance of Black". This preference setting determines how 100K Black and Rich Blacks will appear on screen as well as in print. I believe the default is to display all blacks as Rich Black.
    So, I'm guessing that while the black in your document is defined as a regular 100K black, the "Appearance of Black" preference setting is causing Illustrator to display it as a rich black. If you save this file as a .ai and embed ICC profiles, then open it in Preview, Preview will display the 100K black as a more "washed out" black like Illustrator would do if you chose to "Display All Blacks Accurately".
    Hope this helps....

  • MBP 13" Mid-2012 (Non-Retina) - Display Washed Out

    Just received my new MBP 13” Mid-2012 (Non-Retina). Comparing this to the 1280x800 display on my 2010 White MacBook, it looks washed out at full brightness, the colours are not deep and rich as they was on my old MacBook. Has anyone else experienced this? My next step is to use the calibration tool built into OS X to see if that helps.

    If I were you, I would take the machine into your local Apple Store and compare it with similar models on display. My late 2011 15" has a bright, vibrant screen and so should your new 13".
    If you see that your display is simply not up to par, exchange your computer for another - you have 14 days from date of purchase to exchange or return for a full refund.
    Good luck,
    Clinton

  • Spot light washes out image in photoshop

    Hi I have an image, and i have created a layer for a spot light which i created but the spot light washes out the colour of the image.
    Any help would be appreciated

    If the spotlight is on its own layer, by it self. You can lower the opacity of that layer.

Maybe you are looking for

  • Can no longer see or access Mac partition

    I upgraded my iMac to 10.6.1 and then installed\configured bootcamp. Walked through the XP installation with no problem. My Mac partition\boot drive is not available in the bootcamp control panel and holding the alt\option key does not provide the 2

  • Yahoo account not working in mail

    Hi, I have a new mac book pro (new mac user also!). I cannot get the mail app to 'talk' to my yahoo account. My husbands works fine and we have exactly the same setup. His account works on his mac and on mine, my account works on neither! I can get m

  • PDF version of presenter files - where does the attachments icon go?

    When I save my Presenter files to the server, I can link in attachments related to the presentation. http://breeze.unisa.edu.au/test11-09/ When I save the same files as a pdf - the GUI no longer has a paperclip icon to access the attachments. Is this

  • Photoshop CS6 Bridge freezes on loading image into Photoshop

    CS6 Bridge, text in the Folder window freezes following loading of an image from Bridge into PhotosShop CS6.  Bridge is render useless.  Closing Photoshop frees up Bridge.  Bridge does not refresh the type in the folders window and occassionaly leave

  • Making task execution a reality, in real-time, for critical industries

    Problem Enterprise software systems like ERP identify what needs to be done, but fail to outline how these tasks should be executed, due in large part to operational processes which are typically locked in disparate procedural documents, forms and ex