Disk noise and i/o spikes - logic 7.2.1 :(
example:
when playing around 15 audiofiles, logic7.2's disk i/o meter is rhythmically jumping/spiking from 0% to about 30% - 50%
if theres say 5 - 10 files, then it will jump to maybe 10%
there is a very audible disk noise with this.
unchecking 'larger disk buffer' = noise/spikes seem to speed up to about twice as fast.
all audiofiles are on my driveB [logic project files, samples, refills etc] in my G5
if i move the project files over to my diskA [system drive] i get the same noise.
if i boot up from a firewire drive which has clones of each of these drives - i still get the same noise, but from the firewire drive.
at first i thought it was a problem with diskB, then maybe corrupt files on diskB,
then maybe it was actually diskA, now i just dont know anymore.
while testing last night i threw a load of files into live5 and checked with os x activity monitor ... no jumping/spikes whatsoever.
so its a problem specific to logic? disk buffer? i dont know.
can anyone make any sense of this? i feel im going round in circles.
any help is much appreciated.
j
G5 2x 2Ghz 10.4.7 / Macbook Pro 2Ghz 10.4.7 [in for repair. its 4th logicboard] Mac OS X (10.4.7) Logic Pro 7.2
Sounds like a grounding problem in your G5's power supply,the same supply which is also probably responsible for your replacing your logic board 4 times...
Have you considered replacing the power supply? We have a G5 at work,and one day,I cam in,and as soonas I touched the power button,it went BOOM and the power supply fried.Apparently,according to the Apple techs,this was a common problem for that generation of G5s.
while testing last night i threw a load of files into live5 and checked with os x > activity monitor ... no jumping/spikes whatsoever
Hm...did you get the same noises? you don't mention that in your "test".
Cheers
Similar Messages
-
I want to upgrade my 2007 Mac desktop to 10.5 Leopard. I am currently running on 10.4.11. When I put the leopard disk into the drive all it does is make a weird noise and then spits the disk right back out. It doesn't do this with any other discs, only this software. Is it still possible to update this computer?
Yes. Try Amazon.
Before you do upgrade to Snow Leopard, make sure your Mac meets the requirements.
Mac OS X v10.6 Snow Leopard - Technical Specifications
Make sure the disc you tried using doesn't have any fingerprints or smudges on it. The optical drive can't read the disk otherwise.
If your Mac won't read the disc, might be a good idea to rule out any problems with the startup disk BEFORE trying to upgrade the system.
Using Disk Utility to verify or repair disks
Message was edited by: Carolyn -
Logic 7.2 White noise and hiss when record enabled trak using 002r
A stange thing in logic 7.2 that nor apple or digi design can fix. Any one seen this?
The config ( my belif is that all drives and programs are the latest and greatest.)
Macbook pro 2.6
0s 10.4.6
Logic 7.2.1
Protools LE 7.1.1
Digi core audio 7.1.1
When I record enable a track in logic (using digi core audio) I get a very loud white noise feed back. Muting the track does nothing. I can play out of the digi core audio all day long with other apps as well as logic. the problem is record spicific. Protools works great
I have wiped my computer and installed protools then logic with no luck.
I have wiped my computer and installed logic then protools. No Luck.
Anyone?
Thanks
T2mot
Macbook pro 2.6 Mac OS X (10.4.6)Just to confirm, you have -not- installed the CoreAudio standalone driver -and- the one that installs with ProTools? This can certainly cause problems.
-
Hi
I've tried top open logic pro 9 today which I use daily and have been for the last 4 years. All software etc. is up to date. However it just quits and I get the 'logic pro quit unexpectedly' message. I've tried this several times in the last hour, including a restart and checking disk utility etc. Anyone else have the same problem? And if so, how did you resolve it please?Failing that....
Please download Etrecheck from here...
http://www.etresoft.com/etrecheck
..and then launch Logic Pro
Now run Etrecheck and post up the full report here....
Thanks...
Nigel -
Help. Digital noise and CPU spiking constantly.
Hello,
Ever since I got the latest software update I've been having serious issues. Anytime I try to play a software instrument in Logic Pro 8 or Mainstage I get hellish digital pops and clicks and the CPU spikes up constantly. An error message says there's a conflict with a third party midi driver. I've deleted every suspect midi driver I can find. I tried everything in the trouble shooting guide short of reloading Logic but nothing's worked. I've just been using the built in audio card and it worked great up till this point.
Any ideas? Can I role back the update? I can't seem to find how to do it.
ThanksApple released a Macbook Pro firmware update yesterday.
This firmware update appears to have fixed the large CPU spikes in Apple Logic Pro that began after the last recent Airport software update. Previously, when running Apple Logic Pro even with a small # of tracks with the Airport enabled there was digital noise and one of the CPU peaking very frequently. In order to record or play back with out these issues the only solution was to turn off the Airport. Since I installed the firmware update I have used Logic Pro extensively yesterday recording and playing back projects that previously had this issue and did not have the CPU spiking or digital artifacts.
Thank you Apple! -
Bad HD noises and G4 wont start
Hey,
The offending computer is a G4 (mirrored doors) dual processor, 2gb ram, double super-drive, twin hitachi 180gb hard drives. I got the spinning beach ball of doom and after a few short moments the hard drive began to whirr-click, whirr-click, whirr-click in rapid succession. When hearing the noise I immediately shut down, got some info, said some prayers and rebooted the system only to get the same noise and a grey screen for many minutes until the flashing question mark appeared on the blank folder. Unable to access the second drive through any means or boot up off a CD I detached the offending drive and was able to boot off the second and also able to boot from CD.
As master slave, or cable select the drive continues to make the disheartening noise. Upon putting yet a third drive (from another computer) in, I was working for two or three hours before that drive (27gb Quantum fireball) began to whirr and click identically to the inital Hitachi drive. I took all drives out of said G4 and one by one placed them into an identical G4 model. Now the 27gb Quantum drive operates as it once did (no noise whatsoever), but now both (not just the initial offender) of the Hitachi 180gb HDs are making the same noise and will not operate solo or in tandum with the other drives. Even if on the chain, either 180gb drive will cease the boot process and no drive can be accessed.
My question is... Why me?!!!! And can anyone recommend a solution? I am unable to accept that both drives went bad at the same time, especially when last booted from the 2nd Hitachi drive was fine and usable. Also since the Quantum drive wasn't working in one Mac, but works fine in the other leads me to believe it is hadware, not hard drive. But if so, the Hitachi's should work in the second Mac and alas they don't.
JabrwoxThe red LED indicates power to the logic board, which is good.
Try Resetting the Logic Board
Resetting the logic board can resolve many system problems. Whenever you have a
unit that fails to power up, you should follow this procedure
before replacing any modules.
1 Unplug the computer.
2 Press the Power On button on the front of the unit.
3 Open the side access panel.
4 Remove the battery from the logic board.
5 Wait at least 10 minutes before replacing the battery.
6 Make sure the battery is installed in the correct +/-
direction.
7 Reassemble the computer and test the unit.
Note:
This procedure resets the computer’s PRAM. Be sure to
check the computer’s time/date and other system parameter settings
Will your Mac boot using the Tiger install DVD (or another system CD/DVD)?
Will it boot in Safe Mode? See
What is Safe Boot, Safe Mode? (Mac OS X)
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=107392
Look at this link.
*Resolve startup issues and perform disk maintenance with Disk Utility and fsck*
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=106214
Cheers, Tom -
Making weird noise and won't go into disc mode and all kinds of icons
after having many problems, i managed to get my ipod into disc mode and format it. However, i'm still having similar problems. When i turn it on, it goes on normally but when i connect it to my computer it freezes it. When i try to restart the ipod while connected to the computer, i get the battery is discharged icon, or sometimes the sick icon first and then the discharged icon, and i'm not able to put it into disc mode. After i get the icons, the only way i can get it to start again is to toggle the hold switch many times (took me awhile to figure this out..). Also, the ipod makes a weird repeated disc noise sometimes when its connected or if i'm starting it. If i try to restart the ipod without it being connected to the computer, i get the sick icon until i toggle the hold switch. can anybody help? thanks!
actually, i've managed to get it into disc mode, but it just makes the repeated weird noise nonstop and it doesn't let me open any programs on my computer so i can't format it.Hello,
If a sad iPod icon or an exclamation point and folder icon appears on your iPod’s screen, or with sounds of clicking or HD whirring, it is usually the sign of a hard drive problem and you have the power to do something about it now. Your silver bullet of resolving your iPod issue – is to restore your iPod to factory settings.
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=60983
If you're having trouble, try these steps at different levels one at a time until the issue is resolved. These steps will often whip your iPod back into shape.
Make sure you do all the following “TRYs”
A. Try to wait 30 minutes while iPod is charging.
B. Try another FireWire or USB through Dock Connector cable.
C. Try another FireWire or USB port on your computer .
D. Try to disconnect all devices from your computer's FireWire and USB ports.
E. Try to download and install the latest version of iPod software and iTunes
http://www.apple.com/ipod/download/
http://www.apple.com/itunes/download/
F. Try these five steps (known as the five Rs) and it would conquer most iPod issues.
http://www.apple.com/support/ipod/five_rs/
G. Try to put the iPod into Disk Mode if it fails to appear on the desktop
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=93651
If none of these steps address the issue, you may need to go to Intermediate level listed below in logical order. Check from the top of the lists to see if that is what keeping iPod from appearing on your computer in order for doing the Restore.
Intermediate Level
A. Try to connect your iPod with another computer with the iPod updater pre-installed.
B. Still can’t see your iPod, put it in Disk Mode and connect with a computer, instead of doing a Restore on iPod Updater. Go and format the iPod instead.
For Mac computer
1. Open the disk utility, hope your iPod appears there (left hand side), highlight it
2. Go to Tab “Partition”, click either “Delete” or “Partition”, if fails, skip this step and go to 3
3. Go to Tab “Erase” , choose Volume Format as “MAC OS Extended (Journaled), and click Erase, again if fails, skip it and go to 4
4. Same as step 3, but open the “Security Options....” and choose “Zero Out Data” before click Erase. It will take 1 to 2 hours to complete.
5. Eject your iPod and do a Reset
6. Open the iPod Updater and click “Restore”
For Window computer
Go to folder “My Computer”
Hope you can see your iPod there and right click on the iPod
Choose “Format”. Ensure the settings are at “Default” and that “Quick Format” is not checked
Now select “Format”
Eject your iPod and do a Reset
Open the iPod Updater and click “Restore”
In case you do not manage to do a “Format” on a window computer, try to use some 3rd party disk utility software, e.g.“Partition Magic”.
C. Windows users having trouble with their iPods should locate a Mac user. In many cases when an iPod won't show up on a PC that it will show up on the Mac. Then it can be restored. When the PC user returns to his computer the iPod will be recognized by the PC, reformatted for the PC, and usable again. By the way, it works in reverse too. A Mac user often can get his iPod back by connecting it to a PC and restoring it.
Tips
a. It does not matter whether the format is completed or not, the key is to erase (or partly) the corrupted firmware files on the Hard Drive of the iPod. After that, when the iPod re-connected with a computer, it will be recognized as an fresh external hard drive, it will show up on the iPod updater.
b. It is not a difficult issue for a Mac user to find a window base computer, for a PC user, if they can’t find any Mac user, they can go to a nearest Apple Shop for a favor.
c. You may need to switch around the PC and Mac, try to do several attempts between “Format” and “Restore”
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2364921�
Advance Level
A. Diagnostic mode solution
If you have tried trouble shooting your iPod to no avail after all the steps above, chances are your iPod has a hardware problem. The iPod's built-in Diagnostic Mode is a quick and easy way to determine if you have a "bad" iPod.
You need to restart your iPod before putting it into Diagnostic Mode. Check that your hold switch is off by sliding the switch away from the headphone jack. Toggle it on and off to be safe.
Press and hold the following combination of buttons simultaneously for approximately 10 seconds to reset the iPod.
iPod 1G to 3G: "Menu" and "Play/Pause"
iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): "Menu" and "Select"
The Apple logo will appear and you should feel the hard drive spinning up. Press and hold the following sequence of buttons:
iPod 1G to 3G: "REW", "FFW" and "Select"
iPod 4G+ (includes Photo, Nano, Video, and Mini): "Back" and "Select"
You will hear an audible chirp sound (3G models and higher) and the Apple logo should appear backwards. You are now in Diagnostic Mode. Navigate the list of tests using "REW" and "FFW". The scroll wheel will not function while in diagnostic mode. For further details on Diagnostic mode can be found at http://www.methodshop.com/mp3/ipodsupport/diagnosticmode/
Try to do the 5in1, HDD R/W and HDD scan tests. Some successful cases have been reported after the running the few tests under the Diagnostic mode. In case it does not work in your case, and the scan tests reports show some errors then it proves your iPod has a hardware problem and it needs a repairing service.
B. Format your iPod with a start disk
I have not tried this solution myself, I heard that there were few successful cases that the users managed to get their iPod (you must put your iPod in disk mode before connecting with a computer) mounted by the computer, which was booted by a system startup disk. For Mac, you can use the Disk Utility (on the Tiger OS system disk), for PC user, you can use the window OS system disk. Try to find a way to reformat your iPod, again it does not matter which format (FAT32, NTFS or HFS+) you choose, the key is to erase the corrupted system files on the iPod. Then eject your iPod and do a Reset to switch out from Disk Mode. Reboot your computer at the normal way, connect your iPod back with it, open the iPod updater, and hopefully your iPod will appear there for the Restore.
If none of these steps address the issue, your iPod may need to be repaired.
Consider setting up a mail-in repair for your iPod http://depot.info.apple.com/ipod/
Or visit your local Apple Retail Store http://www.apple.com/retail/
In case your iPod is no longer covered by the warranty and you want to find a second repairing company, you can try iPodResQ at your own risk
http://www.ipodresq.com/index.php
Just in case that you are at the following situation
Your iPod warranty is expired
You don’t want to pay any service charges
You are prepared to buy a new one
You can’t accept the re-sell value of your broken iPod
Rather than leave your iPod as paper-weight or throw it away.
You can try the following, but again, only do it as your last resort and at your own risk.
Warning ! – It may or may not manage to solve your problem, and with a risk that you may further damage your iPod, which end up as an expensive paper weight or you need to pay more higher repairing cost. Therefore, please re-consider again whether you want to try the next level
Last Resort Level
1. . Disconnecting the Hard Drive and battery inside the iPod – Warning !! Your iPod warranty will be waived once you open the iPod.
In Hong Kong there are some electronic shops offering an iPod service for Sad iPod, the first thing they do is to open up the iPod’s case and disconnecting the battery and the Hard Drive from the main board of the iPod. Wait for 5-10 minutes and reconnecting them back. The reason behind which I can think of is to do a fully reset of a processor of the iPod. In case you want do it itself and you believe that you are good on fixing the electronics devices and have experience to deal with small bits of electronic parts, then you can read the following of how to open the iPod case for battery and HDD replacement (with Quicktimes)
http://eshop.macsales.com/tech_center/index.cfm?page=Video/directory.html
2.Press the reset button on the Hard Drive inside the iPod – Suggestion from Kill8joy
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2438774#2438774
Have I tried these myself? No, I am afraid to do it myself as I am squeamish about tinkering inside electronic devices, I have few experiences that either I broke the parts (which are normally tiny or fragile) or failed to put the parts back to the main case. Therefore, I agree with suggestion to have it fixed by a Pro.
2. Do a search on Google and some topics on this discussion forum about “Sad iPod”
What should I do with my iPod? Send it or keep it?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=469080&tstart=0
Strange error on iPod (probably death)
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=435160&start=0&tstart=0
Sad Face on iPod for no apparent reason
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=336342&start=0&tstart=0
Meeting the Sad iPod icon
http://askpang.typepad.com/relevanthistory/2004/11/meeting_thesad.html#comment-10519524
Sad faced iPod, but my computer won’t recognize it?
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2236095#2236095
iPod Photo: unhappy icon + warranty question
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2233746#2233746
4th Gen iPod Users - are we all having the same problem?
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=2235623#2235623
Low Battery, and clicking sounds
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2237714#2237714
Sad faced iPod, but my computer won’t recognize it
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2242018#2242018
Sad iPod solution
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=412033&tstart=0
Re: try to restore ipod and it says "can't mount ipod"
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=443659&tstart=30
iPod making clicking noise and is frozen
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?messageID=2420150#2420150
I am not suggesting that you should follow as well, but just read them as your reference. You are the person to make the call. -
My Macbook Air is making a strange clicking noise and the startup sound no longer plays?
I just noticed about 15 minutes ago, that whenever I turn on my Mac, every maybe 30-45 seconds it goes, "Click-Click-Click."
I ran disk utility, and had it verify the disk, and it says everything is in the clear. I googled it, and someone had said that to stop the clicking, they just knocked on it, and it turned out to be the fan, so I tapped the part of the computer that was clicking and it settled for making a very low sounding fan noise. Is it possibly the fan and not the hard drive as everybody else has advised? And as far as the startup noise, it still doesn't "Ding" annoyingly. Any advice?First action to take in this situation is to fully backup your data, possibly a clone.
Take the computer to an Apple store to have it checked out.
Best. -
My external HD stopped showing up on my desktop, but shows up in my Disk Utility..
I have tried a disk verify and repair - sometimes that works and completes, sometimes it doesn't.
Either way, it wont eject or mount, and still doesn't show up on desktop.
There are no ticking noises coming from the hard drive, and it lights up still, and i have tried replacing the cords, and restarting/shutting down the computer, and have tried it on a mac desktop also - same problem.
Any help would be great!!!and have tried it on a mac desktop also - same problem.
Try this on one of the Macs ...
Open a Finder window. From the menu bar click Finder > Preferrences
Select the General tab then select: Show External Disks -
Hard disks, partitions and Mac Pro
Hi all,
I'm new to the Mac Pro and am migrating from a Windows environment, I have used a iBook for the past 6 months and this is the reason for totally migrating to a Mac Desktop.
I have spent half a day on browsing the forum here, very confusing I must say but then again I add that I am an absolute a-technical person.
I have a few questions on storage which I hope might get answered here;
My Hardware:
I am about to order a 2,66ghz Mac Pro, 4GB Ram, XP1900 and a 160Gb hard disk will will be replaced as soon as the Mac Pro enters my dwelling.
My Work Environment:
Apart from the basic office things, Internet, Mail and such I will use the mac Pro 90% for Imaging purposes. Most used applications:
- CS2
- Aperture
- Adobe Lightroom
as well as a number of add-ons like HDR programs, Noise programs, RAW converters etc.
I am a Photographer working with Mid-format and Standard format images, which in some case, like when using HDR can reach sizes of well over 150-200Mb per image!
Useually the image size of a 16bit mid-format tiff are around 70MB.
Now for the question, how to configure the best possible HD setup.
I will use WinXP, which I would like to run on a seperate partition/disk
I need a schratch disk for CS2
I need roughly 500GB of intermediate storage for imgaes before the periodically get back-up to external hard disk.
So I was thinking the following, and this only based upon how I used my Win Environment:
150GB Raptor as start-up disk and location for programs and OSX as well as basic documents and files
76GB Raptor as Scratchdisk
500GB as WinXp disk (30%) and rest as storage for Image cataloging system (mainly normal sized Jpegs)
750GB as Image tank
I have the Raptors, but don't have to use them if a better solution comes out. Since I will be using my Win pc until everythink works satisfactory on the Mac...
some remarks:
I have red about raid, both 0 and 1 seem interesting but I will loose out on disk space possibilities, and will be forced to work with external drives again, which I don't like... but if push comes to shove I will do that.
sorry for the information overload, and maybe all points have been answered in other threads before, but whilst browsing through hundreds of threads I couldn't see the forest becasue of the trees anymore.
One last comment, I make my living with photography so a good setup is of vital importance ....
Kindest regards, and many thanks in advanceHi all,
Hi,
Now for the question, how to configure the best
possible HD setup.
IMO; use a 3 drive RAID 0 for your boot, application, and
data partition - my style would be all in one big partition
and just segragate stuff with folders. I would then add 2
USB or FireWire drives. One for backing up your system
and one for the windows XP if you just have to have windows
running on your MacPro. They don't run at the same time you
know - like on Amiga where MacOS, Windows, and AmigaOS all
multitasked together in shared memory space simultainiously.
As such my opinion is that it's better to keep your WinTel
box on a KBM switch and LAN the two together.
I will use WinXP, which I would like to run on a
seperate partition/disk
I need a schratch disk for CS2
With a 3 drive RAID your disk I/O is between 3 and 20 times
the speed of a single drive setup so separate cache drive
isn't really advantagious. Click on the link below and
scroll down to the Drive Test area:
http://db.xbench.com/merge.xhtml?doc1=199338&doc2=195252
Both are my profiles. One with a single drive, and one
with a 3-drive raid. No other differences.
I need roughly 500GB of intermediate storage for
imgaes before the periodically get back-up to
external hard disk.
So I was thinking the following, and this only based
upon how I used my Win Environment:
150GB Raptor as start-up disk and location for
programs and OSX as well as basic documents and
files
76GB Raptor as Scratchdisk
500GB as WinXp disk (30%) and rest as storage for
Image cataloging system (mainly normal sized Jpegs)
750GB as Image tank
I have the Raptors, but don't have to use them if a
better solution comes out. Since I will be using my
Win pc until everythink works satisfactory on the
Mac...
IMO the Raptors are overpriced. If it were me I would sell
them. I think the two together will pay for all three 320
or 300 gig RAID drives. I did some research regarding which
drives are good in a Mac RAID environment and I ended up
going for the the MaxLine Maxtor drives (even though I hate
Maxtor usually). So far I'm very happy with them and the
fact that they are like one of the most inexpensive drives
you can get didn't hurt either.
I think that if a person REALLY needs the speed offered by
Raptor drives and is willing to pay the difference for it
then they should just get a dedicated RAID card which offers
even more of a speed increase!!!
some remarks:
I have red about raid, both 0 and 1 seem interesting
but I will loose out on disk space possibilities, and
will be forced to work with external drives again,
which I don't like... but if push comes to shove I
will do that.
You don't lose any space if you use just RAID 0. If there
are three 300gig HDs that format individually to 260gig
each then in a RAID 0 configuration you would have 780gigs. -
There is a discontinuity in time machine, I think it happened last week. I've used the recovery disk partition and time machine, as well as Super
Duper. The time machine full restore left addressbook and mail disfunctional. I then ran Super
duper, which recovered Mail, but not address book
Any suggestions? BTW, as far as I know, the data for address book is still in the Library, it'"s only the app that's MissingThanks for your reply John, but that didn't do the trick for me. I called Apple's professional audio support. Even though I didn't get the answer I wanted to hear, the support was awesome - the guy was very knowledgeable and helpful. Basically, the error I'm experiencing is a nasty one if it appears with pro apps like Logic. He indicated my only recourse was to re-install Logic. Since I'm on Logic 7, I figured if I have to re-install, might as well upgrade to Logic 8. I'm mid-project right now, so I'm pretty nervous doing that, but not much choice.
-
I have OS X 10.9 and have just got logic
have OS X 10.9 and have just got logic and ive instaled the disk and read through all the instructions and now it wont let me open logic with OS X 10.9 ? is their any way to sort this out or to somehow get OS X 10.6 ? ive used time machine and it doesnt go back far enough
It would help if you'd let us know which version of Logic you have.
My first suggestion would be to check Software Update after installing Logic to make sure you have the latest update for your version. For example, if you happen to have Logic Express 9 you should update it to version 9.1.8. -
My 4th gen classic makes a continuous whirring and clicking noise and is not recognised on iTunes. Any ideas?
That could be a clear sign of a damaged hard disk. Can you try and force the iPod into Disk Mode and then connect it to iTunes so you can attempt a restore or even a low level reformat of the iPod's HD/file system.
Putting iPod into Disk Mode
B-rock -
Clicking noise and freezing during updating
Hello everyone, if anyone could help with the following problem i'd be more than grateful. my ipod recently wouldnt connect to windows and started making a clicking noise. to try an resolve this i have reset and restored. I thought this would solve the problem. However, when ipod is updating it seems to freeze, stop updating and clicking noise starts. the following message appears
the specified I/O operation on E: was not completed before the time out period expired.
the only way i can disconnect is to shut the computer down. My playlists appear but with no songs.
this is my 2nd ipod (clicking noise also happened so ipod was replaced in warranty) which is now out of warranty. I think my hard drive might be giving up? These discussions are my last hope! Do I buy a new ipod (possibly for the same thing to happen)? or is it worth getting it serviced? Does anyone out there have any ideas?Even i have a Ipod with a click wheel and is behaving similarly.
Once i connect it to the PC (using USB) it shows the "Do Not Disconnect" sign forever and even iTunes does not recognize it, the hard disk is making some clicking noise and after some time windows returns timeout error "The specified I/O operation on E: was not completed before the time out period expired" !!
I think we are in the same boat, What do we do ???
Thanks -
Strange noise and flashing lights -- can this be battery/power-related?
I have had two occurrences of a very strange sound and never-before-seen flashing of a light on my TiBook. Here is what happened:
I recently got a new battery (a NewerTech Extend 4800) for my 3 year-old PowerBook. I carefully followed the directions that came with the battery and installed it, then plugged in the power adapter to charge it up. I then started the computer so I could see the battery’s progress. Upon start-up, a “whooo” sort of sound came out of the computer for a few moments and the little sleep indicator light flashed several times (as did the apple light on the back of the computer lid). Nothing appeared to be out of order and the computer started normally otherwise. I was able to monitor the battery’s progress and since everything seemed to work normally and no one I talked to seemed to think I’d damaged anything, I just used the computer normally for the next two weeks with no problems.
Then last night the computer just shut down all by itself – I did not put it to sleep and it is not set to go to sleep on its own (my power saving setting is only set to dim the screen), nor did I click “shut down.” I thought perhaps somehow the power cord had not been attached and the battery had run down, although the new battery has been warning me properly when the battery is getting low, so that doesn’t make sense. It would not wake, so I restarted it. Upon restart, the same noise and flashing light situation occurred again.
I called the company that sold me the battery and the tech guy’s suggestion there was to reset the PMU and he gave me an Apple article to instruct me on how to do that. I have done that, but there is no evidence that that has solved whatever the issue was. I am hoping that someone can identify the sound and lights pattern and advise me as to whether it is some more serious issue, or if it’s nothing to worry about. It has been suggested to me that it is possibly a power adaptor issue, but since I’ve run down and recharged the battery without incident several times in between the two occurrences, that doesn’t seem logical either. Is there a known signal a computer makes when there is some power/charging issue?
Thanks for any help you have or for at least posting if you have had a similar experience. So far, no one I’ve talked to has ever heard of this before.
15" Powerbook G4 (tiBook), 1 Ghz, 1 GB, Super Drive Mac OS X (10.4.3)Hi ChloeB,
Your description of the "moaning" sounds at startup sounds like something I'm dealing with. I came across the following post by EWW in the "My Powerbook Won't Start Up". I recommend the link and wish to specifically credit EWW with the posting, as I found it helpful. The URL is
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=380101&tstart=0
Begin Pasted Posting
Hi, limberlingo, and welcome to Apple Discussions.
Power On Self-Test Beep Definition - Part 2 (Oct. 1999 and later Macs)
http://docs.info.apple.com/article.html?artnum=58442
1 beep = no RAM installed
2 beeps = incompatible RAM types
3 beeps = no good banks
4 beeps = no good boot images in the boot ROM (and/or bad sys config block)
5 beeps = processor is not usable
Your Powerbook is not detecting any good RAM at startup. This may indicate that your RAM (all of it — do you have one module or two installed?) has gone bad, or that it isn't seated properly. The first thing to try is reseating it: remove the module(s) and then reinsert it(them). Then try starting up again. If that doesn't do the trick, and you have only one RAM module, it's probably bad and will have to be replaced. A single RAM module having intermittent problems before failing completely (as it apparently has now) would account for all your problems.
If you have two modules, it's much less likely that both of them have failed or loosened in their slots simultaneously. Post back with results of your testing.
End of Pasted Post by EWW
There's another thread I found where one of the causes of a three-tone warning was found to be a pinched ribbon cable coming off the bottom of the trackpad. You can find that in the thread titled "Solution to Freezes Caused By Ribbon Cable" - - the information provided by Marc Posner, Anthony Brade and others.
The URL is
http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=228678
Hope this helps.
Paratus
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