Display problems, bad logic board?

Hi I'm a first timer here! I have a iBook G4 14" 1.33ghz laptop I am fixing for someone. When it boots up, the screen looks like you are watching TV with old rabbit ears. You can make out the mac logo and what not, then the screen goes blue, like the basic blue background, and it looks perfect, then once the desktop comes up, it all fuzzy again. I've replaced the LCD screen, AND the lcd cable that connects to the logic board. Same results. I guess the last part would be the logic board to replace? Does anyone have any suggestions?
Here are some links to the pictures to show you what is going on...
http://www.tylersweb.net/mac/1.jpg
http://www.tylersweb.net/mac/2.jpg
http://www.tylersweb.net/mac/3.jpg

inverter board controls brightness, the lines in your pics look more like the logic
since you have a stick of RAM, try another module or maybe remove it if you have on-board RAM
would be good to connect to the external display if the adapter is available - it would confirm bad logic board if the same lines are on the external display, it wont completely rule out the board though if there are no lines

Similar Messages

  • Can you tell if it is a display problem or logic board problem

    I have a 17 inch aluminum mac book pro. I bought it from a reseller on ebay in February. Recently I have been having some display issues. It has taken it longer and longer for screen to come back on from sleeping and the other day it did not come back on at all. I thought it could be a faulty graphics card because it is one of the models that has the faulty card in it but when I took it to my local mac authorized dealer they said that because there was damage to the hinges of screen, they thought it was a display issue and suggested I get a new screen for upwards of 900 dollars. While testing it they plugged it into an external display and the screen turned on for a few seconds. When they closed it, it did not come back on. Back at home I did a similar test and plugged in an external monitor and it worked for a while but as soon as i turned i closed the lid the display went off again and now I cant get it to display even when connected to external monitor. WHen i turn it on i can hear the chime and i can control the volume and keyboard brightness. My question is whether this is a simple display issue, a faulty graphics card issue, or a logic board issue? Please help me. I am going to fix the computer either way I would jsut like to know if it is a screen issue that I could replace myself.

    If the Macbook Pro was made between 2007 and 2008 it maybe the Nvidia issue.
    I suggest you take it to an Apple center and have them run the test.
    The damaged hinge should not affect the test, I would think.
    Be warned though, just because you have exactly the same symptoms does not mean it will fail the test or more importantly, if the test does not generate a fault code, Apple will not repair.
    Did this start after the 10.5.7 update and more importantly did you run the SMC 1.3 update as well?
    If you can get the machine to start properly, deleting the /var/vm/sleepimage seems to eliminate the symptoms of not waking. Before you delete is take note of it's size.
    It's my opinion that this file also caused the machine to hang after the SMC 1.3 update when the lid was closed the first or second time. The machine then continued to run generating lots of heat. You may not have noticed and just found the machine with a flat battery one day.
    If that is the case, damage is done and the symptoms are the same as the Nvidia extend warranty issue except not covered!

  • Power Mac G5 DP1.8GHz - Bad Logic Board or Power Management Issue?

    I have a Power Mac G5 DP1.8GHz/1.5GB/80GB which I bought non-working. It has not yet been disassembled or examined by a certified tech. This is it's issue (which replicates): the computer powers on. It makes a single warning tone, then the LED flashed at least 15 times (too fast to count). Then the posting chord is heard. Hard drive spins up. Then nothing (no video). Won’t boot from any disk. I have changed the RAM and tested the RAM banks with known-to-be-good RAM from another DP1.8GHz G5. The warning tone stopped once or twice after this switch, but then it didn’t chime. I changed the PRAM battery, but not with as new one. However, after installing the used one and then resetting the PMU, it displayed video briefly for the first time. While installed in the other 1.8GHz G5, the hard drive was formatted, given a clean install of OS X 10.4.11, and then moved into this computer where is never mounts. The computer is not accessible through TDM.
    Do I have a bad logic board? Bad CPUs? A power managment issue? A RAM issue?

    Through my own trial and error troubleshooting, I have found the CPUs to be in good working order and the logic board passes the Apple Service Diagnostic every time. Despite the installation of numerous pairs of modules that worked in another DP1.8GHz, the computer has a RAM issue-it gives the "no good RAM" tone most of the time when it powers up (after a PMU reset it does not). Also the computer boots from disk or into Open Firmware but the disk utility can't see either hard drive so I may have a bad SATA controller.

  • Will apple replace a faulty or bad logic board on my 2013 MacBook Pro?

    I have a late 2013 13" macbook pro that has been diagnosed, by a non apple provider, with a bad logic board.  The place where i took it suggested getting that confirmed with Apple.  I have an appointment tomorrow at my local apple dealer...
    but am worried that this practically new laptop is toast or going to be very costly since I don't have applecare!!  Any help for me????

    my late 2013 13" pro also has a bad logic board. The diag said it was a memory failure. I'm 3 months out of warranty and had it sent to the repair center for $280 plus tax. I don't feel like the logic board was defective I just didn't catch it in time. I tried a restore a few months ago and it worked better because i was in Yosemite beta since the developers beta and I thought the issues were because of the betas. It has constant panics and restarts but I was trying to get by until now it wouldn't turn on and disk utility said the hard drive was not mounted and it wouldn't let me restore It. maybe there are a few more people with problems then there should be so soon.

  • Powerbook G4 titanium bad logic board

    HELP, my second computer is a powerbook G4 15" and i have been told i have a bad logic board. is it worth replacing or should i put the $500 toward a new one? Also coould a bad logic board cause other problems in the future? what happens to make a bad logic board? what does a logic board do?
    thanks for all the info.
    Macbook Pro   Mac OS X (10.4.9)  

    Hi Tour Man,
    Welcome to Apple Discussions.
    Which model TiBook do you have? Especially if it's one of the earlier models (400-667VGA), I would certainly not spend $500 on it, as you would probably not be able to sell the entire machine for that price.
    If it's a later model (667DVI-1GHz), consider what you use it for (if you have it fixed, how long is it going to serve your needs?), the capacity of the HD, how much RAM you have, whether there's a wireless card or DVD burner, the condition of the battery, whether USB2 and the many other "updates" a new machine would offer are important to you, etc.
    It's not likely that a bad LB would cause other issues.
    A LB (same as "motherboard" in PC land), is a circuit board on which most of the essential elements of a PB are soldered (CPU, GPU, RAM slots, etc), so when any one of these has issues, the repair is to replace the entire LB (specialized equipment is needed to work on the micro-circuitry, so it isn't something a repair shop can repair).

  • Is a bad logic board due to a bad power supply?

    Computer specs:
    iMac G5 20", 2.0 ghz, 1 GB RAM, 250 GB hard drive
    Back in October of 2008 my iMac G5 Power PC shutdown intermittently and then when I went to go to start it back up, it booted to the blue screen and hanged there forever. So, I did a hard shutdown and then waited and then booted again and it still hanged at the blue screen. I tried booting in Safe Mode, and that worked, so I had a chance to backup everything that I needed to. Then, I took the computer to my local Apple Store to speak to a "genius". They could not diagnose my computer while I was there, so they needed to take it overnight and let me know over the phone what the issue was. The next day they called to tell me that it was a Logic Board issue and that it would cost $900 to fix it. I obviously was blown away at the cost for the problem, and I could not afford that charge so I seeked out other options. I found a shop in my neighborhood that offered me a used 1.8 ghz logic board for half of what Apple was quoting me, so I went with it. Then, 9 months later (which brings us to present) my iMac completely shutdown on its own and would not start up. I ran it through some tests (LED lights on the interior) and confirmed that it was a Logic Board issue again. So, I took it back to the shop in my neighborhood and they told me that the warranty for the part they replaced had expired. So, I called Apple Customer Relations to talk to them about the issue. They confirmed, using my serial number, that I could get my issues fixed for free. They then told me about the "iMac G5 Repair Extension Program for Power Supply Issues" which was news to me. This Program ended in December of 08, meaning I would have qualified in October of 08... the time I initially brought in my computer. So, I brought my computer to the Apple Store to drop it off for repairs, and when going over the history of the machine they confirmed that because there was a used 1.8 ghz part in my machine installed from a non-authorized Apple place that they COULD NOT fix my issues now.
    My question is:
    Back in October of 2008 when I brought in my computer to the Apple Store and they diagnosed it with a bad Logic Board, could that have been because of a bad power supply? If that was the case, does a bad power supply cause a Logic Board to go bad?

    Welcome to Apple Discussions.
    The short answer is no, but it's actually more complicated than that. The original iMac G5 17 and 20 inch models were plagued by two problems: defective capacitors which affected the logic board, and an unrelated set of defective capacitors which affected the power supply. Rarely were both conditions present at the same time, but Apple decided—when they issued the repair extension authorization—that replacement of both components was a more cost effective approach. By far, the most common of the two problems involved the logic boards.
    The REA covered machines for a period of three years from first sale, and ended in December of last year. Yours likely would not have been covered due to the date of sale provision. On a case by case basis, AppleCare representatives did allow coverage for machines beyond the three year limitation, but not past the end of last year.
    It's not likely that you have both a defective logic board and power supply, though you may. The combination of these issues is actually found most frequently in the iMac G5 ALS models, none of which were covered by a repair extension authorization.
    Your issue is a difficult one, as Apple authorized dealers and service providers have every right—and, actually, a responsibility under their annual agreements—to reject warranty, AppleCare or REA coverage for parts or labor when compatible but not similar logic boards have been placed in your machine. This is because they must exchange these parts for the part they are requesting from Apple on a like-for-like basis, and that part must be associated with your machine serial number. In trying to resolve your issue, the shop in your neighborhood actually created an additional issue for you which would only be triggered in the event of component failure. I have no idea what period of coverage they typically offer, but Apple provides for 90 days or the balance of any warranty or AppleCare extension in place at the time of the repair, whichever is greater.
    Your logic board can be refurbished for $ 189.00 if it in fact exhibits the capacitor issue. That process is covered by a one-year warranty. If you are interested in exploring that option, send a message to the electronic mail address in my Public Profile and I will reply with additional information. To help determine additional information concerning your machine, please include the machine serial number if you elect to do write for more information.

  • Bad logic board VS starting as target drive!

    Hello,
    if someone has a bad logic board on a G5, can they boot the G5 as a target drive? witht the help of another computer? (not sure if the logic board
    Michel

    Hi, Michel. I suspect that whether or not Target Disk Mode works will depend on what the logic board's particular problem is. If it doesn't work, be sure to remind the user that removing the hard drive from the faulty Mac will allow her to extract any data she needs from it, by installing it in or connecting it to another Mac. In many models, removing a hard drive is easy.

  • Can't boot G5,  bad logic board?

    G5 Dual 2.0 Ghz, 4 GB Ram
    Can't get past blue screen unless I boot in safe mode, then I can get in.
    Here's what I've tried:
    5 different boot volumes, including Tiger and Leopard and a clean install
    internal drives only, external drives only
    reseated ram
    zapped pram
    zapped nvram
    reset pmu
    booted in single user mode, gets stuck at workaround bonjour unknown error 0
    pulled out airport card, reseated airport card
    tried just about everything, always stops at the blue screen with cursor
    does this sound like a bad logic board or is there anything else I can try? thanks

    Dear Mr. Jarrett,
    Just analyzing: You're not able to boot normally from any installed system on any hard disk, but you can boot in the single user mode, are able to use AHT and the G5 even boots from the TechTool disk.
    However, you do not state you installed those five systems mentioned recently, so the question is: How stable is your computer booted from a DVD (grey install disk or the TechTool bootable disk and are you able to do a fresh system install now?
    I don't think your RAM chips are bad, but there could be a problem with (one of) the SATA cables connecting the hard drive to the logic board. Did you try both data cables (by using the second drive bay)? As you undoubtedly know a PowerMac cannot boot from an external USB drive, but having a bad internal data cable could also prevent starting up from a FireWire drive. And take a critical look at the four guide screws: are they well fitted?
    From your description I understand you own a dual processor and not the late 2005 duo core G5. These computers are very different animals indeed.
    Success and best regards,
    Robbert
    Message was edited by: Mechanic man
    Message was edited by: Mechanic man

  • Using external monitor with a bad logic board???

    Can you use an external monitor on your ibook, if you have a bad logic board, to use it? Or is the only solution to use the shim, or get it fixed. Thanks.

    Hi, and welcome to Apple Discussions.
    If the graphics chip on the logic board has come loose, it won't drive the graphics to an external display, either. Sorry.

  • How can you transfer files from an iMac with a bad logic board?

    This is in reference to my "Nothing but a blue screen at startup!" post. He took his iMac to an Apple authorized repair shop and he was told that the logic board was shot. He has decided to get a new iMac but he's wondering about all the photos and other files he has on the old hard drive. What are the ways that he can get files from the old hard drive on to his new one when he gets it? Thanks in advance for your help with this!
    Eric

    Hi Eric!
    roam's method is a very good one!
    I don't know if this will work because of the bad Logic Board, but another way, may be to use Firewire Target Disk Mode.
    The ailing iMac would have to be Firewire enabled, and you would need access to another Firewire Mac.
    Good Luck!
    ali b

  • Power Mac G5 Dual 1.8 Problems / Failed Logic Board?

    Okay, it seems that many other people are having problems with the Power Mac G5. All I can really say to Apple is that I love Macintosh and the Power Mac G5 has been the greatest computer I have ever owned. It seems that the logic board is the main issue for most people. Maybe Apple still needs to work out some bugs, but one thing for sure is that it would really be nice if there were no more produced like this and that everyone gets their problems solved without going through it again.
    Well, my G5 stopped working about a month ago. I've been really lonely and sad too... It started that the computer would randomly start, meaning that I would have to power it up and down several times until it randomly start. Other people have had these issues too. And after about 2 days of doing this it froze and now it refuses to start. I've done everything I possibly can without being a technician. I have two video cards and switching them dosen't help, my monitor works, and when I take out the ram there's no beeping. No power to keyboard or mouse, can't reset firmware, or reinstall OS or run hardware test. I reset PMU, but still no luck. I've tested both my Superdrive and Hard Drive. They both work. I have a friend with a G5 and I put my Hard Drive in and it booted up perfectly.
    Fans are functional, they speed up after about five minutes with no chime at start up. Which the chime is supposed to indicate a hardware failure. My only clues are the logic board and the processors, possibly the power board. Though it seems to be the logic board most of the time. The big thing is, does Apple know what's causing this to happen to Apple fans and costumers?
    I saw an earlier post with a guy who bought the same G5 a year and a half ago with three year warranty and had the logic board replaced-three times already!!!
    Unfortunately my G5 is out of warranty. I bought it from CompUSA and someone had boughten it and decided to return, unused still. They gave me a the 3-year warranty extension program, but I could never activate it. I've had the computer about a year and a half myself. I bought it early June last year June 2004. But this was right before the new line-up came out. So it's the November 2003 model. It's ecspecially depressing that a week or two later I could of gotten it for $500 dollars cheaper and a newer model. Not to also mention the beautiful new Apple Cinema Displays that match the G5. Though I doubt that Apple with have any sympathy for me for not waiting a little longer. I love my G5 and I just want to hear the chime and watch my 20" Apple ADC Display turn on. I don't live anywhere close the any Apple Stores to take it in for diagnostics.
    So I'm really in a tunnel of doom. I'm thinking of buying the logic board from mac-pro.com for $700. I heard Apple wants a $1000, but I don't know. Though driving it in to the Apple store isn't gonna be easy for me. Even so, I'm afraid of how costly it will be. I need to know what's defective and needs replacement more than anything. I only wish there was some way I could activate my 3-year warranty extension program. Well, I suppose that's really enough of my pitiful crying.
    Does Apple or anyone care to help me? I would be forever so happy if I could get my G5 working again. Thanks to anyone who'll attempt to help. You too Apple.

    Hey Everyone -
    Have you looked into the iMac G5 repair exstension Program for video and power issues? Posted on Apples website....The iMac G5 repair extension program for video and power issues applies to the first generation G5 computers that have video or power-related issues as a result of specific component failure. If your iMac G5 is exhibiting any of following symptoms: scrambled or discorted video, no video, no power, your computer may be leigible for repair, free of charge. This article was posted on October 21, 2005.
    My computer was freezing up, not booting up, locking on the blue page, static looking when trying to boot up, etc. I took it in to the Apple Store yesterday, and they will be replacing the board within the next 2 weeks. Although my have an extended warrenty, the replacement program is avaliable for certain first generation iMac G5 models that were sold between approximatrely September 2004 and June 2005 freaturing 17- and 20-inch displays with 1.6GHz and 1.8Ghz processors.
    If Apple or an Apple Authorized Service Provider determines that your iMac G5 computer is eligible as part of the program, the repair will be covered by Apple for up to two years from the original date of purchase even if your iMac G5 is out of warrenty. This is a worldwide Apple program.
    It's worth looking up the article, it list the serial number ranges that apply. Worth a look!

  • Can an external display work if logic board is broken?

    Recently I had my early 2007 24" iMac's graphics card fixed. Three weeks later the main screen went all black but my external screen works and I'm able to use the computer just fine when I mirror the display.
    I gave the imac to the same repair place that changed my graphics card and they saying the logic board is broken.
    I was thinking the problem was display cable or something but logic board is a much more expensive thing to repair so wanted to  double check here if its even possible for the computer to work with an external display if logic board is broken?

    The correct version of the AHT works just fine on all Mac's. But you need the correct version of it.
    For the Late 2011 models that is only available as a Online, Internet Boot system where the computer is booted from over the Internet.
    Restart the system and at the chime hold down the Option+d keys until you see a spinning globe in the center of the screen. Then once it full boots and you select a language run the test.
    Also it is best to have the computer Wired to your internet router with a cable.

  • G5 ALS Won't Boot Past Grey Screen...Bad Logic Board?

    Hi all-
    I did a quick search, and found various answers, but none specific to my situation, so below, please find my tale of woe, and I appreciate in advance any advice you folks could provide:
    I have a G5, 2.0GHz, 20" iMac (upgraded to Leopard) that recently stopped booting past the grey screen/ chime. Somewhat irked, I did some trouble shooting to include the following:
    1 - Reset SMU
    2 - Zapped PRAM
    3 - Run Apple Hardware Test (all tests passed)
    4 - Repaired hard drive by booting to the install CD ... it returned errors that were not fixable, but since the log is on the computer that crashed, I don't have the errors to post here
    5 - After that repair, the computer booted, so I ran disk utility again, repaired permissions successfully, verified the hard disk via S.M.A.R.T. (arguably, not the most reliable indicator of hard disk life).
    6 - Just to be on the safe side, I did an Archive and Install.
    All that done, I was able to use the computer for 2 days, and this morning, I woke up to find the fans a-blazin' and the computer non-responsive...I rebooted to...you guessed it!...a grey screen.
    Luckily for me, my memory (akin to a steel trap!) served me well...I had the power supply changed two months ago under the repair extension program for my model iMac (bulging capacitors)..but they did NOT replace the logic board.
    If you have made it this far, thank you for reading, I am building to my crescendo....
    Being a slightly balding fellow, I have very little hair left to pull out here, so in desperation and with my recent power supply repair in mind, I pulled the back off of my beloved iMac (my very first Mac!) to reveal a bulging capacitor on the +logic board+.
    My question: Could my symptoms be related to the logic board (remember the AHT passed), or might it be related to a bad hard drive (remember the S.M.A.R.T. status was verified)? Any troubleshooting steps I may have missed? I am going to bring it to my local Apple store, but wanted to know if there are any other ideas out there for me to try before making the 1.5+ hour trek south to a Mall.
    Thank you all in advance for any advice you may have!
    Best,
    jason

    Not only do you have a hardware problem, you should call Apple, tell them that you had the power supply replaced two months ago (you are within the 90 day warranty period), and ask that they replace the motherboard as well, since the previous repair didn't work.

  • 2007 15 inch MacBook Pro With Bad Battery, Bad Logic Board, Unreliable USB Ports - Good News Story?

    I'm posting this to put it out there just in case someone else has had similar experiences. My MBP is a 2007 with the Intel Core 2 Duo 2.15 GHz processor running 10.6.8. I've had it since 2009, and it has been a flawless machine for me until recently.
    In the last two weeks, the mouse would no longer respond to touch - it felt mushy instead of clicking. The machine also was extremely sensitive to any touch on the top of the computer. Lastly, and most frustratingly, the USB ports would randomly stop working upon waking the computer up. I use it in clamshell mode a lot, with a mac keyboard and a kensington turbo mouse. Often, the mouse would not work upon waking the computer up. Rebooting was the only solution and I was doing a lot of rebooting. This is my everything computer - work and personal - so I wanted someone to look at it.
    I took it into a local business that specializes in Mac repair since it was vintage. After a day, the tech called me and said that the battery was split and that my other issues were probably logic board problems, and the logic board would be hard to find and expensive to replace. He said I might be able to use it without the battery, but that obviously would be a pain. The tech felt such pity for me that he did not even charge me the diagnostic fee.
    I tried using it without the battery and the machine was extremely jittery in its response, plus the mouse button would still not work. I put the bad, split battery back in, and it did respond better (though not the mouse). I have just enough knowledge to know that electronics can behave very strangely when their batteries are bad and this one was especially bad. Against the tech's advice, I spent $69 for an Anker replacement battery from Amazon. I put it in, and all of my problems have gone away - including the mouse which now clicks just like it did 5 years ago when I bought it. It might be total coincidence, and I'm certainly not saying to anyone that if you have similar issues with your older, but much beloved MBP, that this will do the trick, but I did want to get this out there because $69 for a new battery is a lot better than >$1200 for a new machine (if you do not currently have or want to spend the money).
    I do a weekly time machine backup and I will be really sad when this computer finally gives up the ghost, but since I've gotten a lot of good information from these forums, I wanted to pass this information along in the hope that it might help someone in the community.  The two Steves have my undying admiration and respect.

    I'm posting this to put it out there just in case someone else has had similar experiences. My MBP is a 2007 with the Intel Core 2 Duo 2.15 GHz processor running 10.6.8. I've had it since 2009, and it has been a flawless machine for me until recently.
    In the last two weeks, the mouse would no longer respond to touch - it felt mushy instead of clicking. The machine also was extremely sensitive to any touch on the top of the computer. Lastly, and most frustratingly, the USB ports would randomly stop working upon waking the computer up. I use it in clamshell mode a lot, with a mac keyboard and a kensington turbo mouse. Often, the mouse would not work upon waking the computer up. Rebooting was the only solution and I was doing a lot of rebooting. This is my everything computer - work and personal - so I wanted someone to look at it.
    I took it into a local business that specializes in Mac repair since it was vintage. After a day, the tech called me and said that the battery was split and that my other issues were probably logic board problems, and the logic board would be hard to find and expensive to replace. He said I might be able to use it without the battery, but that obviously would be a pain. The tech felt such pity for me that he did not even charge me the diagnostic fee.
    I tried using it without the battery and the machine was extremely jittery in its response, plus the mouse button would still not work. I put the bad, split battery back in, and it did respond better (though not the mouse). I have just enough knowledge to know that electronics can behave very strangely when their batteries are bad and this one was especially bad. Against the tech's advice, I spent $69 for an Anker replacement battery from Amazon. I put it in, and all of my problems have gone away - including the mouse which now clicks just like it did 5 years ago when I bought it. It might be total coincidence, and I'm certainly not saying to anyone that if you have similar issues with your older, but much beloved MBP, that this will do the trick, but I did want to get this out there because $69 for a new battery is a lot better than >$1200 for a new machine (if you do not currently have or want to spend the money).
    I do a weekly time machine backup and I will be really sad when this computer finally gives up the ghost, but since I've gotten a lot of good information from these forums, I wanted to pass this information along in the hope that it might help someone in the community.  The two Steves have my undying admiration and respect.

  • IMac 21.5 diagnosed with bad logic board

    mid-2011 21.5" iMac with i7, 2TB HD, 12GB RAM Yosemite 10.10.2
    Hey everyone an Apple Tech here in Montana just diagnosed my iMac has having a bad circuit on the logic board which is causing the hard drive fan to lose power and not spin properly. This then causes heat sink errors and kernel panics which shut my computer down. I ran Apple hardware test on my own and came up with errors indicating problems with the hard drive fan and the fan sensors. The kernel panics I experienced always happened when I was using Lightroom or Aperture but never happen any other time. He also indicated there may be some corrupt data on the hard drive. Cost of repairs = $1000 for new logic board and hard drive. I asked about using 3rd party software to control the hard drive fan but the tech told me because it couldn't get power from the logic board that wouldn't work. Does this sound like a correct diagnoses? They were real eager to sell me a new iMac so I am not sure I trust the tech. Any 2nd opinions would be very helpful. Please let me know if I need to post more in depth info. Thanks!
    michelle

    I understand your position and frustration, however IMHO the alternatives presented are the most viable. AFAIK your experience has been the exception rather than the rule. Given the alternatives (Dell, HP, Lenovo) I would choose an Apple every time. However in order to keep your peace of mind if you do choose to replace it (I would) with another iMac this time get AppleCare to protect your investment. If cost is an issue, I would strongly recommend visiting Apple's online refurbished store, those machines are discounted and come with the same warranty as a new machine, you can also add AppleCare and they are virtually identical to a new machine. If you don't find the configuration you want continue checking because inventory changes very quickly. In the US the link to the refurbished store is:
    http://store.apple.com/us/browse/home/specialdeals

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