Dispobibil​idad oferta Nikon-Cool​pix L840 a 199.99 dolares

Hola! Quisiera saber hasta cuando esta disponible la oferta Nikon - Coolpix L840 Cámara digital de 16.0 megapíxeles - Negro a 199.99 dolares con regalo de SanDisk - Ultra Tarjeta de memoria SDHC UHS-I Class 10 de 8 GB - Negro/Gris/Rojo y Lowepro - Adventura SH 100 II Bolso para cámara - Negro. Muchas gracias!

Hola MarielaAlejandra-
Gracias por visitar el foro comunitario de Best Buy en búsqueda a una respuesta a tu duda. ¿Me puedes guiar en donde viste esta promoción?  Yo solo puede encontrar estas promociones. Este tipo de promociones típicamente duran de domingo a sábado, depende de la promoción puede que se expire al final de esta semana.
Atentamente,
Karina|Social Media Specialist | Best Buy® Corporate
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Similar Messages

  • I recently downloaded LION. How do I get my Nikon Cool IV scan driver to work?

    I recently downloaded LION. How do I get my Nikon Cool IV scan driver to work?

    You probably can't. Nikon says that Nikon Scan, last updated over two years ago, isn't fully compatible even with Mac OS X 10.5. It probably won't work with Lion at all. Nikon suggests a third party software option such as Vuescan from Hamrick.com or Silverfast software. Both companys say that their software does support the CoolScan IV and is compatible with Lion.
    http://www.hamrick.com/
    http://www.silverfast.com/product/Nikon/199/en.html
    Regards.

  • Video quality of Nano

    Got the new Nano and I am underwhelmed with the video quality of the new video camera. I have a mid priced Nikon Cool Pix camera that takes much better video.
    Nano users, how is your video quality? Mine certainly doesn't look like the video clips on the Apple site that are advertised for the Nano. Maybe I am doing something wrong or my Nano is not up to spec?
    Thanks.

    Michael Cuneo wrote:
    Got the new Nano and I am underwhelmed with the video quality of the new video camera. I have a mid priced Nikon Cool Pix camera that takes much better video.
    As with ANY camera, you have to hold it steady to get sharp video. IMHO, the 5G is NOT a camera. It just happens to have a video camera built-in for those times when you need a video camera, but you left your "A" camera home.
    I have a 42" HD TV at home that does a better job watching movie than my Nano, but once again, the Nano video playback is for when I'm on the move.
    I just don't understand why all you critics need to tear down the Nano (mainly a audio player, the IP mainly a phone, the IT because it doesn't have all the goodies the IP has, etc).
    I like my Apple tech toys for what they do.

  • HT4101 Cannot use device. The connected USB device requires too much power.

    I am trying to connect the Nikon cool pix to my IPad 3rd gen through the iPad connection kit via USB. The title of this is the error I get on the iPad screen. Anyone else have this issue or know of a solution?

    Thank you for the help! I am going to get one and give it a shot.
    Did this fix also work with memory sticks for USB upoads? I want to transfer music and files from my computer to my GF's iPad.

  • Aperture makes eye purple with Red Eye Correction tool. Why? Bug?

    http://www.hvmediasolutions.com/images/picture1.png
    As you can see with the above picture, Aperture does not do red eye well. iPhoto gets it right, actually as well as Photoshop CS4.
    Any suggestions? Or is this a bug?
    And yes I could use Photoshop every time, but I am trying to do as much as I can in Aperture.
    Thanks,
    Ed

    I have an old camera, Nikon Cool Pix 3100 and save my photos to .jpg. Yes I know, time to upgrade.
    I capture straight into Aperture.
    The thing that bugs me, iPhoto 08 gets it right, better than Photoshop. Aperture, since version 1, has always given me purple red eye cast on both Intel and Power PC Mac Book Pro's. Since iPhoto can get it right, Aperture should be able to.
    Currently I use Pixelmator and desaturate with the brush tool for the best results.
    By the way Lightroom 2 desaturates the eye to a light grey with it's red eye tool.
    Different results with 4 different applications. I would love to just use one.
    Ed

  • I updated Lightroom 4 yesterday and it won't download my photos. Is there some way to check if the camera supported?

    I updated Lightroom 4 yesterday and it won't download my photos. Is there someway to check if it supports a Nikon Cool pix P6800?

    Here is the list of what version of Adobe software you need, at a minimum, to work with each camera they support:
    http://helpx.adobe.com/creative-suite/kb/camera-raw-plug-supported-cameras.html
    I am not familiar with a Coolpix P6800.  A P7800 requires LR 5.3 or higher, so wouldn’t work with LR 4.  There is an S6800 that was announced 4 months ago that I don’t see produces raw files to be supported or not by LR.

  • Looking for a camera to take pictures of little (fast moving) kids

    I am looking for a camera that will take picutres of my little ones (3 and 1).  My old point and shoot (Nikon Cool pix I think) camera takes forever to focus and take the picture after I push the button so the kids have already moved by that time.  And it also takes forever to 'record the picture' to be able to take another.  I was looking at the Canon T3 or T3i.  What are the real differences between the two?  I used the compare feature on the website but that didn't really help me out.

    You are correct to move to a DSLR for faster auto focus, faster response and faster saving images compared to a compact camera.
    T3i costs more, has more resolution, and has a flip out screen compared to the T3.
    You would be smarter to consider Nikon DSLR's for cross-type focus points for faster auto-focussing.  Canon DSLR's do not have focus assist lighting which can have a harder time to autofocus in low light when indoors.
    http://www.bestbuy.com/site/d3100-digital-slr-camera-with-18-55mm-vr-lens/1222817.p?id=1218237704411...
    http://www.bestbuy.com/site/d3200-digital-slr-camera-with-18-55mm-vr-lens/5192349.p?id=1218642249528...
    http://www.bestbuy.com/site/d5100-16-2-megapixel-dslr-camera-with-18-55mm-lens-black/1308091165.p?id...
    Go the store to try it out the DSLR's.  If you want more auto-focussing, consider a good external flash, they have illumination lasers.

  • IPhoto pictures go black after import

    when I import to iphoto the pictures often go black or disappear from my event

    I have a Macbook Pro and I have Iphoto 09  version is 8.1.2 (424)  when you click on the iphoto information.
    My Mac is Mac OS X version 10.5.8
    When I transfer pictures from my Nikon Cool Pix or any camera, I simply put the memory card in the Macbook Pro.  Sometimes, over the past year one or two of my transfered pictures would appear in my iphoto library, but if I clicked on it to edit, it would appear black or blank.  I could usually send it to someone as an attachment, but I couldn't edit it.
    Now, it is happening to many more pictures from any group that I import,  and I can no longer email, attach or print out those pictures.  I can usually see these pictures OK in Iphoto event, but can't forward them or edit them. They simply look black and it will say something like O bites, as if there is no picture.
    What is happening?  How do I fix this ? 

  • Weird iPhone 11, itunes and iPhone 4 behaviour with iPhone videos

    I have a smart album in my iPhone 11 library of all the videos . THere are 65 videos in it. some were taken with my nikon cool pix L6, some with my Canon sx 210IS, a few with my iPhone 3g with apps that are allowed to take videos, and one in particular with my iPhone 4. now, when i sync my iPhone 4 with itunes, itunes only calculates there to be 53 videos in this smart album. whats worse it it actually syncs only one to the iPhone 4. thats the one that i took with the iPhone 4 itself. no other videos show up. no even if the original event containing it is synced. 'include videos' is checked. i unchecked photo sync and re synced them again like twice but the exact same problem re appears. any help?
    Neerav

    i searched the forums. sorry, i should had before. i realised others are having similar issue but there doesn't seem to be any resolution.
    so i guess this is a bug...

  • Using Nikon LS-2000 Scaner

    I am considering buying an iMac 24". I understood there are some problems using Nikon cool scan LS-2000 with the iMac.
    So my question is – can I use, when I need to scan slides, the iMac as a monitor with my old PC which has a SCSI card enabling the scanner to work perfectly on it?

    Although the parallel port on the scanner might look like a regular parallel port, I venture to guess that it's actually a special-purpose SCSI connector, and not compatible with the USB converter you've got.
    If you put an old parallel port-style printer on the USB converter, I bet it would work. I guess what you really need, is a SCSI-USB converter and I doubt these actually exist. You might be better off passing this old scanner to eBay and get yourself a more recent USB-based one.

  • Need Basic advice on save format & slide show project

    I have started a project to scan and save approximately 5,000 color slides and 5,000 plus Photos  of  Family and Friends over a 50 year period.
    My goal is to use Adobe Photoshop Elements 9 to edit and save files to hard drive and then use PSE 9 to Organize, add tags etc.
    and then produce slide shows  to view primarily on big screen (52 inch plus) HDTV sets.
    The equipment I will be using 1ncludes: 1. Epson Perfection V600 Photo Flatbed Scanner
    2. Nikon Cool Scan IV  Slide & Film Scanner
    3. Dell XPS 8300, Intel i7 3.4ghz processor, 12.0gb installed memory, 2 each 1tb hard drives.
      4. Windows 7 OS
    I have been working on scanning and saving pictures for over 2 months and the deeper I get into this project the more questions arise.
    I am looking for advise now rather than later so I won't have to re-do hours of work later. I have visited Forums and viewed all the Tutorials I could find for help.
    Some things I don't entirely understand and really need help and advice on are: 1. What is the best sequence of workflow?
    2. What format, size and resolution would be best to" save as" for my purpose?     
    I see no need to save in high quality PSD if I am not going to Print Photos later?
    3. Should I do re-sizing to 1500pi X 1000pi (Or ??) during the initial edit or later in Organizer?
    I have been cropping and saving photos in a multitude of sizes and resolutions.
    Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.  I have a lot to learn. Thanks, Donald

    There will be lots of opinions and your mileage will vary. Get the book ScanTips - www.scantips.com.  It da bomb
    I had a similar Epson flatbed and number and my workflow was like this: 
    * Use the Epson scan software
    * Set to 2400 bpi and save to TIFF (I now wish I had saved most to high quality JPEG.  Sigh).
    * Use Digital Ice where it mattered (Ektachrome) and not where it didn't (Kodachrome)
    * Organize belt and suspenders -- directories (and Organizer tags) identical to the date stamp on the slide.  It will help you a lot when you correct the EXIF date later and if you ever want to find the slide again in  the tray or a more compact box storage (I threw away a lot of trays)
    * Expose the slides to air as little as possible.  I found it better to go direct from carousel to scanner with only enough time to dust carefully and orient
      (it takes less time to throw away losers on the scanner display than on a viewer box)
    * Throw away the loser
    * Start with a stack and as I lay them on the flatbed, dust carefully.  I used an old-fashioned StaticMaster - saved lots of time versus a blower brush
    * Learn the histogram on the scanner software.  It does a good job on bottom and top values but the mid-tones almost always benefit and it will save you oodles of time
    * set the correct date (as close as you can) in your organizing software
    * If I cropped, it was to a 12x9 ratio (good for prints and not bad for conventional TV)  
    * I found Microsoft Photo Story 3 did a nice job and handled resolution and cropping fine.

  • How to change camera applied Metadata - Camera Model.

    I have 1000's of imported scanned film images in my Aperture library. The camera model metatag reads Nikon Cool Scan (name of scanner I used). How can go in and edit this this tag to change to actual camera model used to take photo? I'd like to do a batch change of the metatag - but this one is not available to change. Any ideas?

    A little application called PhotoInfo by Jim Merkel claims to edit such EXIF data, but I have not had success with it making changes stick for creation dates. I am in the same boat with scans, but don't want to record camera data in the scanned file (I find it helpful to know the device that produced the actual image). I want to change the creation date to the picture's creation, rather than the digital rendition of it.
    Regardless, look into PhotoInfo and the batch change options it has.

  • File too large error or corrupt file error

    I have scanned some images using a Nikon Cool Scan and when trying to import the the NEF files into Lightroom I get a corrupt or unrecognized file error. Bring it into CS2 or CS3 and save as TIFF and try the import and get a File too large error.
    Any ideas or help on this. What is the file size max for import?
    The scan is 4000dpi even tried at 300dpi.
    Thanks in advance for any insight.

    > Is it truly a size problem? If so, what is recommended? Lee Jay states that 10000 pixels is the max on either side. Okay, in DPI, what does that translate to?
    <br />
    <br />There's no necessary relationship between pixels and dots. You could scan an image at 4,000,000 dpi and translate it into an image of 100 x 100 pixels. I've used ridiculous extremes to make a point. The LR limitation is currently 10,000 pixels for any side. So you could have 9,000 x9,000 pixels but not 10,001 x50 pixels.
    <br />
    <br />Is this now clearer?
    <br />
    <br />
    <span style="color: rgb(102, 0, 204);">John "McPhotoman"</span>
    <font br="" /></font> color="#800000" size="2"&gt;~~ John McWilliams
    <br />
    <br />
    <br />
    <br />MacBookPro 2 Ghz Intel Core Duo, G-5 Dual 1.8;
    <br />Canon DSLRs

  • New to Aperture - Can I scan directly into it?

    Hi, everyone: I hope you can help me - I still do traditional black & white film photography and am going to get a Nikon Cool Scan V to scan in my negatives. I just purchased Aperture and am eager to use it, but don't see anything in the manual about scanning directly into the program (like I used to do with photoshop). Can someone please tell me if this is possible?
    Otherwise, I guess the scanner will come with software and I'll just scan to that and tranfer to Aperture? Seems like a pain!!
    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
    Mac Book Pro   Mac OS X (10.4.6)  

    A related thought - if you don't want to use ImageCapture, you could use something like Vuescan and just set up an Automator action on a hot-folder that you scan into.
    The upshot - this should be pretty easy, similar to the tethered shooting options.
    Good luck! That's a great scanner you've got coming to you.

  • Cannot get MBPro to recognize cameras or card reader

    Im running OS X 10.8.5. Cannot get my canon rebel, nikon cool pics cameras to show up on my mac at all. Tried checking sidebar and its all good tried reseting my SMP I think… went through all the forums and cannot find an answer. Any help would be great  

    Do external HDs show up when connected to the same USB port?
    To the devices work on another computer?
    If you go to System Report is anything listed under USB for that port?
    BTW, this is the Mac Pro desktop forum
    Did you reset the SMC?
    Intel-based Macs: Resetting the System Management Controller (SMC)
    Try resetting the PRAM
    About NVRAM and PRAM

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