Do I need to re-enable Core Storage after cloning and swapping out my HDD?

I swapped out the internal hard drive of my mid-2012 13" MacBook Pro for an SSD. I'm very pleased with the performance gains so far — it feels like a whole new Mac. I cloned my HDD to the SSD before installing using Carbon Copy Cloner and I also created a Recovery partition using the same software. Now after doing the hardware swap, verything is working perfectly — no issues at all. Here's my question:
I know that when I upgraded to Yosemite, my hard drive was converted from old-fashioned GUID partitions to the new Core Storage and a logical volume group partition. After the clone and hardware swap, I'm back to old-fashioned partitions, no more Core Storage. Do I need to manually re-enable Core Storage? (I've read about how to do this, and I feel confident I can follow the steps.) What are the benefits of this? Will a future Yosemite (hypothetical 10.10.3?) update put it back for me? Or is it fine to proceed the way I am now? I'm not currently using FileVault 2, which I know also uses Core Storage.
Thanks.

No, you don't have to convert to CoreStorage unless you decide to create a Fusion drive out of your SSD and HDD.

Similar Messages

Move RAC database - need to format the disk storage having RAC and ASM

Hello,
Short story:
I need to format the disk storage used by a two nodes RAC with ASM.
How can I have the database working the new disk storage.
Long story:
We decided to change the external disk storage formatting from RAID 5 to RAID 10.
Configuration is: 2 Solaris nodes having Oracle software installed on each node and running with ASM
- node1: ORCL1 database and +ASM1 asm instances
- node2: ORCL2 database and +ASM2 asm instances
Available is a NFS storage with plenty of space.
Please tell me which would be the easiest way to move the database?
Thank you

Thanks alot for your answer.
1) There is more trouble: I also have the Voting disk and the OCR on the same (and only) SAN storage. Do you know about steps to backup/restore and/or recreate these?
As I said I have a NFS file system available with plenty of space.
2) I will need to backup the database, which way would you recommend: RMAN or EXP ?

I need to re enable divx connected after Firefox disabled it

Firefox 10.01 disabled "divx connected" software. I need to re enable that software

No, you don't have to convert to CoreStorage unless you decide to create a Fusion drive out of your SSD and HDD.

Do you always need to run enable-cstopology/bootstrapper after update?

If I look at the instructions for the January updates:
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2809243/
I can see that it says you have to run "Install-csdatabase". But as far as I can see you dont need to that because the database are already at the correct level.
http://blogs.technet.com/b/dodeitte/archive/2013/07/02/how-to-verify-if-lync-server-2013-database-updates-completed-successfully.aspx
My question is if the last part about mobility and running bootstrapper is also redundant since I already have mobility enabled?
I guess the information is there since it is a cumulativeupdate so if you have not installed any of the previous updates you have to run both the database update and enable the mobility service?

At the beginning of the KB article it does say which steps have to be run depending on the current version of Lync Server.
"To install updates for a Lync Server 2013 installation that has the July 2013 cumulative update (5.0.8308.420) or a later update installed,
you must perform the following step 1.
To install updates for a Lync Server 2013 installation that has the February 2013 cumulative updates (5.0.8308.291) installed, you must perform
the following steps 1 and 2.
To install updates for Lync Server 2013 RTM (5.0.8308.0) you must perform the following steps 1-5."
Step 1: Install CU
Step 2: Back end database updates
Step 3: CMS database update
Step 4: Enable Mobility service
Step 5: Enable UCWA
Please mark posts as answers/helpful if it answers your question.
Blog
Lync Validator (BETA) - Used to assist in the validation and documentation of Lync Server 2013.

How much do u need to pay for iCloud storage after 1year?

How much do u have to pay After purchasing an iCloud storage for 1 year ? Is it the same amount for every year ( £14, £28 or £70) or just for the first year , and then u pay like £5 a year as a continuation?

It's the same amount each year.

I need help to recover/relink mail after archive and install

I am helping my friend fix her 15" G4 PowerBook after memory failures caused many crashes. There was no recovering short of a reinstall via "archive and install". All that worked great, but now Mail doesn't recognize the accounts, mailboxes, signatures, etc. that are still located in the user/library/mail folder.
What's up with that? I can't figure out how to relink Mail to this stuff.
Here's more detail:
1) After lots of prior debugging (Disk Utility, Disk Warrior, Apple Hardware Test, single-user commands per Apple tech notes), I did the A&I to 10.3.4 from the original disks.
2) Per Dr. Smoke and The X Lab, I ran the 10.3.9 combo installer right away so that the "older" system would not get confused by the "newer" stuff in the Previous Systems folder.
3) I Launched Mail and it started anew, i.e. didn't recognize accounts and wanted to start over.
Thanks for any help.

The account settings are stored in HOME/Library/Preferences/com.apple.mail.plist. It looks like that file became corrupt -- maybe its permissions went awry (Disk Utility cannot fix that) and Mail just deleted the file to create a new one.
If your friend doesn't have a backup copy of that file, just set up the accounts from scratch all over again. If given the option to import existing mailboxes or something like that, don't. Just enter the account information and Mail will automagically rediscover the data in HOME/Library/Mail/ when done.
You'll also have to re-configure most settings in Mail > Preferences. For spam-related security reasons, the first thing you should do is go to Preferences > Viewing and disable Display remote images in HTML messages if it's enabled.

Still saying not enough storage after resetting and erasing everything off my iPad don't know what to do if I reset the iPad in General what will it erase

All I really do is watch movies on my iPad I will download two movies watch then delete knowing I can redownload we'll did that last night deleted and know that I'm trying to download a movie I just bought it's saying not enough storage when in general it saying I have 2.7 left I'm not that good with these kind of things but someone please help I have no apps downloaded no music movies some pics but that's it I don't understand

Ashley ....
if you reset all settings, you will not lose anything at all. You will have to reset all of the device preferences again like your chosen wallpaper, your privacy settings, whatever settings in the Settings app that you changed from the factory default, will have to be entered again.
You will not lose any data, movies, songs, etc. I responded to your first post and told you that I'm not sure it will work anyway, it's just a suggestion. If you are not comfortable doing it, then don't do it.

If you buy a 16gb iPhone 5s, how much room is actually left for storage after ios7 and all the basic applications are installed?

On my iPod i only had 8gb and was happy with it, i never managed to fill it up. However, I've heard that the room left for iPhones(I'm looking at the 16gb one in particular) is small because of how much there is on them in comparison to iPods.
Could somebody please shed some light on this for me?
Thanks

It isn't just the OS and preinstalled apps (and there are more of them on the iPhone 5s) it is the way drive space is counted by the OS. You should have about 13.1 to 13.5 GB.

TS3992 Iphone 4s won't back up because not enough storage after deselected and deleted all messages.

I read and followed the step from Apple website. Also went and deleted all my message which is about 1.9gb. I also un selected all the option from the backup menu. How come i still couldn't back up my phone. iCloud keep giving back error messages. Also time to time all the contacts diappeared for couple of hours then just reappeared out of no where. Please help.

After trying every possiblity I called Apple Support, spoke with Tyler who dug as deep as he could and it showed almost 5 gigs available. He contacted a tech for the server who said that they could see that I had deleted all of the files but that due to the high amount of server traffic at this time it may take a week to initialize on the server before it shows cleared.
Thank you randers4 for your help.
Greg

Can't remove Core Storage from hard drive

I wanted to erase a backup drive and start over again but somehow it's gotten converted to "Core Storage" I'm told.
I managed to erase the drive by first listing the Core Storage devices, using the following command in the OSX Terminal:
diskutil cs list
Then erasing the drive:
diskutil cs delete "Backup2"
This made everything look OK in Disk Utility, because now the drive appears as having a volume in addition to the drive icon, and there are also 4 tabs available (First Aid, Erase, Partition, RAID, Restore), but if I erase the drive something strange happens: it says "Switching disk1s1 to Core Storage", and after that the two drive icons in Disk Utility get the same name (all my other drives show an icon with the drive brand/model while the second icon shows the volume name). And the main drive icon only has 2 options now: First Aid and Partition. The volume icon has 3 options in DIsk Utility: First Aid, Erase, Restore.
The obvious thing to do at this stage is select "Erase", but this only results in the volume icon changing its name separately from the drive itself.
I've also tried booting with my OSX 10.6 installation DVD and erasing the drive from there, but the result is the same when I try to erase it once again. Seems like my OSX has somehow decided that this specific drive must be a Core Storage device regardless of what I've done to the actual drive itself.
What do I need to do in order to make the drive "normal" again? I'm using OSX 10.9.5.

Kappy: thanks, but I have to explain that I'm not in the process of upgrading from OSX 10.6 Snow Leopard (I grabbed the OSX 10.6 installation DVD because it allows me to boot from another media than the computer's boot drive -Mavericks doesn't come on a DVD of course and I haven't taken the time to figure out how to install it on a USB thumb drive).
I actually did a clean install (backup everything, reformat the drive, install OSX from scratch) of OSX 10.9 Mavericks recently, and the reason for reformatting the problematic drive in the first place was to do a completely new backup since I don't want to risk keeping keep bits of 10.6 mixed in there with 10.9.
I somehow messed up the drive which made it Core Storage and now it refuses to act as a normal drive.
My Mac consists of several drives where the abovementioned drive acts as a bootable backup.
Keg55: Thanks for your suggestions but I'm still running into the same issue as before: after doing the terminal commands my drive seems fine, but when I open Disk Utility (DU) and format ("erase") the drive gets converted back into Core Storage. I erase it in order to test if things have really gotten back to normal or if the Core Storage thingy still sticks with my system somehow (which it does). I'd never even heard of Core Storage until now (and still don't understand what it really is as most of the documentation I've found is highly technical), but could it be that OSX 10.9 Mavericks is supposed to do this while 10.6 Snow Leopard isn't (hence what Kappy is saying in the last part of the reply above about Yosemite creating Core Storage volumes automatically? Is this what applies here, or have I misunderstood?
OK, let me explain what happens step by step... The goal of course is to format the drive so as to act as a normal "Mac OS extended (journaled)" drive (as I said I don't even know what Core Storage is and don't know why I would be wanting this), so here goes....
1) At the first stage I have the drive freshly deleted using the diskutil cs delete LVG_UUID command (diskutil cs delete "volume_group_name" appears to be doing the same thing), so it's just like my other drives as far as I can see in DU (showing the drive brand/model and a partition icon underneath as seen in the screenshot below).
2) Now I want to verify if my drive has really become "normal" again or if it acts up once more by becoming a Core Storage drive again.
I click on the drive's (not its partition) icon in DU, select the "Erase" tab and finally press the erase button.
3) After pressing the erase button, messages pop up at the bottom part of DU very quickly. Luckily I can do screenshots faster than I can read, so here's what I've captured DU telling me. First it's converting the drive to Core Storage:
4) next it switching the drive to Core storage:
5) and finally it's formatting the file system for logical volume (whatever that means):
and as you can see in the top left corner the drive now only shows a single icon (unlike every time I've formatted a drive in the past it shows the drive and a partition icon, where the drive icon is followed by the drive's brand/model name).
So what's going on here and why can't I get my drive back to normal when erasing it?

Broken screen but need to enable mass storage mode blind

Hi there.
I have a Curve 8900 with a broken screen. I have connected it to Blackberry Desktop Software to get anything I can backed up. It appears to backup all application & organiser things, but wont let me sync music, pictures, or videos. Troubleshooter suggests that it's because I haven't enabled Mass Storage, but obviously I cant see the screen to see if prompts me to enable it. I have tried connecting my phone and randomly scrolling to see if I can click "yes" to enable it by chance, but it is just as likely that I have clicked "do not ask me again" and then clicked "no" as well.
Can anyone guide me through the long way of going into settings and changing it manually, bearing in mind that I cannot see what is actually happening? Or does anyone know a way around it?
Also, my menu was exactly the same as when I originally got it, with no added icons. I seem to remember 'settings' being on the last row but not at the very end. Thanks.
UPDATE- ok i've worked out how to get into settings, but can someone tell me how to get to Enable Mass Storage mode from there? Like either how many rows to scroll down etc, or if pressing a letter takes me to the correct option, and then where from there?

Also, my menu was exactly the same as when I originally got it, with no added icons. I seem to remember 'settings' being on the last row but not at the very end. Thanks.
UPDATE- ok i've worked out how to get into settings, but can someone tell me how to get to Enable Mass Storage mode from there? Like either how many rows to scroll down etc, or if pressing a letter takes me to the correct option, and then where from there?

Volume encrypt and erase failed; unable to delete core storage logical volume

I was attempting to slowly migrate [MI-***] from early 2013 MBPRO to New iMac 5K w/Ceiling Level components.
Kept going through LONG process and then told me it couldn't create [MBPRO HD Home Username] "Jim" on volume or whatever. NO FileVault enabling/ still skittish from White iMac Encrypting Nightmare days... I don't even know -- I guess it's encrypted on Airport, but not on MBPRO.
Moved over Applications from outside User account fine; anything inside any User account NOT FINE.
Hooked up Thunderbolt cable between two macs and restarted MBPRO in T mode... displaying the lightning BOLT on screen that moves around to reduce Burn-in.
Was able to go onto desktop and use windows to drag n drop 190G of movies over to iMac... wondering how I was going to get all right settings over form FCP...
Bottom Line: I only have 16G left on MBPRO and need to MOVE video editing to be exclusive on 3T Fusion on Maxed out iMac 5K.
> Have concluded through whole process that I just want to clone the MBPRO and then delete most of the Larger Videos from MBPRO to recover some of my 760G SSD back.
So, I grabbed my 2T Airport Extreme and Hooked up the Cat5 LAN port to Cat5 input on back of NEW iMac; Now my MBPRO doesn't have to be locked up for days, because i can use TimeMachine backup to restore or clone the two macs... i hope.
Went into recovery mode and selected sub-Macintosh HD and attempted to erase; Result time after time after time: "Volume Encrypt and Erase failed." Reason: "Unable to delete the Core Storage logical volume." It dismounts it and I have to restart computer to get it back on. Funny thing is I don't have to use R anymore... which by the way, Command+R appears to be same as just plain old R when restarting... why is that?
This has become a "since Christmas" runaround session for me and I am sick of it.
Please help. I would've called Apple Care [and I did last night while driving... just to get advice on direction. I'm usually a pretty savvy PowerUser but this is driving me crazy.] but have to get things done for a meeting tomorrow. Can work on it after hours if someone can advise today on this post.
Thx,
Jim

I have taken some screenshots of the error I get and the state of my HDD in Disk Utility. I did have a weird thing happen after trying to repair using single user mode, where I reopened disk utility and the partitions were NOT greyed out and displayed the correct info concerning space available etc, although after verifying it then reverted back to greyed out with no info.

I want a new and more powerful (non-Apple) wireless router but I still want to use my existing Time Capsule to continue with my Time Machine backups and I still need the Time Capsule's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features and capabilities

THE SHORTER STORY
My goal is to successfully use my existing Time Capsule (TC) with a new and more powerful wireless router. I need a new and more powerful wireless router in order to reach a distant Denon a/v receiver that is physically located in a master bedroom some 50 feet away from my modem. I need to provide this Denon a/v receiver with an Internet connection so that it can obtain its firmware updates and I need to connect this Denon a/v receiver to my network in order to use its AirPlay feature. I believe l still need the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) features because I am not sure if the new wireless router will provide me with the NAS like features / capabilities I need to share files between my two Apple laptops with OS X 10.8.2. And I know that I absolutely need my TC's seamless integration with Apple's Time Machine (TM) application in order to continue to make effortless backups of my two Apple laptops. To my knowledge nothing works with TM like Apple's TC. I also need the hard disk storage space built into the TC.
I cannot use a long wired Ethernet cable connection in this apartment and I cannot use power-line adapters. I have read that wireless range extenders and repeaters are difficult to successfully set-up and that they will reduce data speeds, especially so when incorrectly set-up. I cannot relocate my modem and/or primary base station wireless router.
In short, I want to use my TC with my new and more powerful wireless router. I need to stop using the TC to connect to the modem. However, I still need the TC for seamless TM backups. I also need to use the TC's built in hard drive for storage. And I may still need the TC's NAS capabilities to share files wirelessly between laptops because I am assuming the new wireless router will not provide NAS capabilities for OS X 10.8.2 (products like this/non-Apple products rarely seem to work with OS X 10.8.2/Macs to provide NAS features and capabilities). Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone please advise on how to set-up my new Asus wireless router with my existing TC in such a way to accomplish all of this?
What is the best configuration or set-up to accomplish my above goals?
Thank you in advance for your assistance!!!
THE FULL STORY
I live in an apartment building where my existing Time Capsule (TC) is located in my living room and serves many purposes. Specially, my TC is at least all of the following:
(1) Wi-Fi router connected to Comcast Internet service via Motorola SB6121 cable modem - currently the TC is the Wi-Fi base station that connects to the modem and has the gateway address to the Internet. The TC now provides the DHCP service for the Wi-Fi network.
(2) Wireless router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to several Wi-Fi clients - two Apple laptop computers, an iPod touch, an iPad and an iPhone all connect wirelessly to the Internet via the TC.
(3) Wired Ethernet router providing Internet and Wi-Fi network access to three different devices - a Panasonic TV, LG Blu-Ray player and an Apple TV each use one of the three LAN ports on the back of the TC to gain access to the Internet.
(4) Primary base station in my attempt to extend my wireless network to a distant (located far away) Denon a/v receiver requiring a wired Ethernet connection - In addition to the TC, which is my primary base station, I am also using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. I cannot use a wired Ethernet connection to continuously travel from the living room to the master bedroom. The distance is too great as I cannot effectively hide the Ethernet cable in this apartment.
(5) Time Machine (TM) backup facilitator - I use my TC to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops using Apple's Time Machine (TM) application. However, I ran out of storage space on my TC and therefore added external storage to it. Specifically, I added an external hard drive to my TC via the USB port on the back of the TC. I now use this added external hard drive connected to the TC via USB as the destination storage drive for my TM back-ups. I have partitioned the added external hard drive, and each of the several partitions all have enough storage space (e.g., each of the two partitions used by TM are sized at three times the hard drive space of each laptop, etc.). Everything works flawlessly.
(6) Network Attached Storage (NAS) - In addition to using the TC's Network Attached Storage (NAS) capabilities to wirelessly back-up two Apple laptops via TM, I also store other additional files on both (A) the hard drive built into the TC and (B) the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB (there are additional separate partitions on this drive for these other additional and non-TM backup files).
I use the TC's NAS feature with my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Again, everything works wirelessly and flawlessly. (Note: the Apple TV is connected to the network via Ethernet and a LAN port on the back of the TC).
The issue I am having is when I try to listen to music via Apple's AirPlay in the master bedroom. This master bedroom is located at a distance of two rooms away from the TC's current location in the living room, which is a distance of about 50 feet. This apartment has a long rectangular floor plan where each room is connected to the next in a straight line. In order to use AirPlay in the master bedroom I am using a second extended Wi-Fi base station (a Netgear branded product) to wirelessly extend my WiFi network to a Denon receiver located in the master bedroom and requiring a wired Ethernet connection. This additional base station connects wirelessly to the WiFi network provided by my TC and then gives my Denon receiver the wired Ethernet connection it needs to use AirPlay. I have tried moving my iTunes music directly onto my laptop's hard drive, and then I used AirPlay on this same laptop to connect to the Denon receiver. I always get a successful connection and the song plays, but the problem is that the connection inevitably drops.
I live in an apartment building and all of the many wireless routers in this building create a great deal of WiFi interference on both the 2.4 GHz and 5GHz bands. I have tried connecting the Netgear product to each the 2.4 and 5 GHz bands, but neither band can successfully maintain a wireless connection between the TC and the Netgear product. I also attempted to maintain a wireless connection to an iPod touch using the 2.4 GHz band and AirPlay on this iPod touch to play music on the Denon receiver. Again, I was able to establish a connection and successfully play music, but after a few minutes the connection dropped and the music stopped playing. I therefore have concluded that I have a poor wireless connection in the master bedroom. I can establish a connection, but it is intermittent with frequent drops. I have verified this with both laptops by working in the master bedroom for an entire day on both laptops. The Internet connection in this master bedroom proved to drop out frequently - about once an hour with the laptops. The wireless connection and the frequency of its dropout are far worse with the iPod touch and an iPhone.
I cannot relocate the TC. Also, this is an apartment and I therefore cannot extend the range of my network with Ethernet cable (I cannot drill through walls/ceilings, etc.). It is an old building with antiquated wiring and power-line adapters are not likely to function properly, nor can I spare the direct power outlet required with a power-line adapter. I simply need every outlet I can get and cannot afford to block any direct outlet.
My solution is to use a more powerful wireless router. I found the ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router which will likely provide a better connection to my wireless Internet in the master bedroom than the TC. The 802.11ac band of this Asus wireless router is totally useless to me, but based on what I have read I believe this router will provide a stronger connection at greater distances then my TC. And I will be ready for 802.11ac when it becomes more widely available.
However, I still need to maintain the TC's ability to work seamlessly with TM to backup my two laptops. Also, I doubt the new Asus router will provide OS X 10.8.2 with NAS like features and capabilities. Therefore, I still would like to use the TC's NAS capabilities to share files on my network wirelessly assuming the Asus wireless router fails to provide this feature. I need a new and more powerful wireless router, but I need to maintain the TC's NAS features and seamless integration with TM. Finally, I want to continue to use my Apple laptop and AirPlay to wirelessly access and play my iTunes music collection stored on the TC's hard drive. I also want to continue to use my Apple laptop, AirPlay and Apple TV to wirelessly watch movies and TV shows stored on the additional external hard drive connected to the TC via USB. Can someone advise on how to set-up my existing TC with this new Asus wireless router in such a way to accomplish all of this?
Modem
Motorola SB6121 SURFboard DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Existing Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Apple Time Capsule
Apple Time Capsule MC343LL/A 1TB Sim DualBand (purchased June 2010, likely the Winter 2009 Model)
Desired New Wireless Router and Primary Wi-Fi Base Station - Non-Apple Asus
ASUS RT-AC66U Dual-Band Wireless-AC1750 Gigabit Router
Extended Wi-Fi Base Station - Provides an Ethernet Connection to a Denon A/V Receiver Two Rooms Away from the Modem
Netgear Universal Dual Band Wireless Internet Adapter for TV & Blu-Ray (WNCE3001)
Addition External Hard Drive Attached to the Existing Apple Time Capsule via USB
WD My Book Studio 4TB Mac External Hard Drive Storage USB 3.0
Existing Laptops on the Wireless Network Requiring Time Machine Backups
MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2012) OS X 10.8.2
MacBook Pro (13-inch Mid 2010) OS X 10.8.2
Other Existing Apple Products (Clients) on the Wireless Network
iPod Touch (second generation) is model A1288.
iPad (1st generation)
Apple TV (3rd generation) - Quantity two (2)

Thanks Bob Timmons.
In regards to a Plan B, I hear ya brother. I am already on what feels like Plan Z. Getting WiFi to a far off room in an apartment building crowded with WiFi routers is a major pain.
I am basing my thoughts on the potential of a new and more powerful router reaching the far off master bedroom based on positive reviews on cnet.com, pcmag.com and pcworld.com. All 3 of these web sites have reviewed the Asus RT-AC66U 802.11AC wireless router as well as its virtual twin cousin 802.11n router. What impressed me is that all 3 sites rated this router #1 overall in terms of both range and speed (in both the 802.11n and 802.11AC flavors). They tested the router in real world scenarios where the router needed to compete with a lot of other wireless routers. One of the sites even buried this Asus router in a media room with thick walls and inside a media cabinet. This Asus router should be able to serve my 2.4 GHz band wireless clients (iPod Touch and iPhone 4) with a 2.4GHz Wireless-N band offering some 50 feet of dependable range and a 60 Mbps throughput at that range. I am hoping that works, but it's borderline for my master bedroom. My 5 GHz wireless clients (laptops) will enjoy a 5GHz Wireless-N band offering 150 feet of range and a 200 Mbps throughput at that range. I have no idea what most of that stuff means, but I did also read that Asus could reach 300 feet and I got really excited. My mileage may vary of course and I'm sure I'm making some mistakes in my interpretation of their data. However, my Winter 2009 Time Capsule was rated by cnet.com to deliver real world performance of less than that, and 802.11AC may or may not be useful to me someday. But when this Asus arrives and provides anything other than an excellent and consistent wireless signal without drops in the master bedroom it's going right back!
Your solution sounds great, but I have some questions. I'm using OS X 10.8.2 and Airport Utility (version 6.1 610.31) and on its third tab labeled "Wireless" the top option enables you to set "Network Mode" to either:
Create a wireless network
Extend a wireless network
Off
Given your advice to "Turn off the wireless on the TC," should I set Network Mode to Off? Sorry, I'm clueless in regards to how to turn off the wireless on the TC any other way. Can you provide specific steps on how to turn off the wireless on the TC? If what I wrote is correct then what should the rest of this Wireless tab look like, or perhaps it is irrelevant when wireless is off?
Next, what do you mean by "Configure the TC in Bridge Mode?" Under Airports Utility's fourth tab labeled "Network" the top option "Router Mode" allows for either:
DHCP and Nat
DHCP Only
Off (Bridge Mode)
Is your advice to Configure the TC in Bridge Mode as simple as setting Router Mode to Off (Bridge Mode)? If yes, then what should the rest of this "Network" tab look like? Anything else involved in configuring the TC in Bridge Mode or is it really as simple as setting the Router Mode to "Off (Bridge Mode)"?
How about the other tabs in Airport Utility, can they all stay as is assuming I use the same network name and password for the new Asus wireless router? Or do I need to make any other changes to the TC via Airport Utility?
Finally, in regards to your Plan B suggestion. I agree. But do you have a Plan B for me? I would greatly appreciate any alternative you could provide. Specifically, if you needed a TC's Internet connection to reach a far off corner of your home how would you do it? In the master bedroom I need both a wired Ethernet connection for the Denon a/v receiver and wireless Internet connection for the iPhone and iPod Touch.
Power-Line Adapters - High Cost, Blocks at Least One Wall Outlet and Does Not Solve the Wireless Need
I actually like exactly one power-line adapter, which is the D-Link DHP-540 PowerLine AV 500 4-Port Gigabit Switch. This D-Link power-line adapter plugs into your wall outlet with a normal sized plug (regular standard power cord much like any other electronic device) instead of all of the other recommended power-line adapters that not only use at least one wall outlet but also often block the second outlet. You cannot use a power strip with a power-line adapter which is very impractical for me. And everything about my home is strange and upside down. The wiring here is a disaster and I don't have faith in its ability to carry Internet access from the living room to the master bedroom. And this D-Link power-line adapter costs $90 each and I need at least two to make the connection to the Denon A/V receiver. So, $180 on this solution and I still don't have a dependable drop free wireless connection in the master bedroom. The Denon might get its Ethernet Internet connection from the power-line adapter, but if I want to use an iPhone 4 or iPod Touch to stream AirPlay music to the Denon wirelessly (Pandora/iTunes, etc.) from the master bedroom the wireless connection will not be stable in there and I've already spent $190 on just the two power-line adapters needed.
Extenders / Repeaters / Wirelessly Extending the Wireless Network
I have also read great things about the Amped Wireless High Power Wireless-N 600mW Gigabit Dual Band Range Extender (Repeater) SR20000G and the My Net Wi-Fi Range Extender. The former is very powerful and the latter is easier to install. Both cost about $150 ish so similar to a new Asus router. However, everything I read about Range Extenders points to them not being very effective for a far off corner of your house wherein it's apparently hard to place the range extender in the sweet spot where it both gets a strong enough signal to actually effectively extend the wireless signal and otherwise does not reduce network throughput speeds to unacceptable speeds.
Creating a Roaming Network By Hard Wiring with Ethernet Cable - Wife Would Say, "**** No!"
Even Apple seems to warn against wirelessly extending your network (see: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4145#) and otherwise strongly recommends a roaming network where Ethernet cable is used to connect two wireless base stations. However, I am in an apartment where stringing together two wireless base stations with Ethernet cable would have an extremely low wife acceptance factor (WAF). I cannot (both contractually and from a skill prospective) hide Ethernet wire in the walls or ceiling. And having visible Ethernet cable running from room-to-room would be unacceptable, especially to the wife.
So what is left? Do you have a Plan B for me? Thanks in advance for your help!

Error message when installing Yosemite OS: this core storage operation is not allowed on a sparse logical volume group

I was updating my Macbook Air (i7, 4mb RAM, 256 gb) to Yosemite OS when the process was interrupted. After retry, my computer is showing the following message: "this core storage operation is not allowed on a sparse logical volume group". I tried to restart several times, but the problem goes on with error. It would be my computer damaged?

If you don't already have a current backup of all data, back up before proceeding. There are ways to back up a computer that isn't fully functional. Ask if you need guidance.
Start up in Recovery mode. When the OS X Utilities screen appears, select Disk Utility.
In the Disk Utility window, select the icon of the startup volume from the list on the left. It will be nested below another disk icon, usually with the same name. Click the Unlock button in the toolbar. When prompted, enter the login password of a user authorized to unlock the volume, or the alternate decryption key that was generated when you activated FileVault.
Then, from the menu bar, select
File ▹ Turn Off Encryption
Enter the password again.
You can then restart as usual, if the system is working. Decryption will be completed in the background. It may take several hours, and during that time performance will be reduced.
If you can't turn off encryption in Disk Utility because the menu item is grayed out, you'll have to erase the volume and then restore the data from a backup. Select the Erase tab, and then select
Mac OS Extended (Journaled)
from the Format menu.
You can then quit to be returned to the main Recovery screen. Follow these instructions if you back up with Time Machine. If you use other backup software, follow its developer's instructions.
Don't erase the volume unless you have at least two complete, independent backups. One is not enough to be safe.

-69774: Couldn't bring the new Core Storage Logical Volume online.....What Now?

Hey,
I'll start from the begining.
I have a 1TB that was running Mavericks, which I decided to perform Firevault 2. Anyway my hard drive crashed and now I have Mavericks running on a different 250 gig hard drive and have been trying to decrypt my original 1tb harddrive through terminal.
So I originally did the "diskutil corestorage unlockVolume UUID -stdinpassphrase thing and it said that it could not mount it but I notice that it was converting. So after 6 hours the converting stopped and now it says that decyrption is no longer neccessary and that it needs to be reverted. So I am try to revert it with terminal and it tells me that it is unable to find mount point. So ive been trying to mount the disk and comes up with the above error -69774: Couldn't bring the new Core Storage Logical Volume online. So does anybody have any suggestions??
-Thank you

To anybody that read this and has the same sort of problem:
I just recovered my stuff using stellar pheonix Mac Data Recovery, even after I coundnt mount it on my other mac machine. Great software.

Do I need to re-enable Core Storage after cloning and swapping out my HDD?

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