Does anyone have any positive feedback after upgrading to Mavericks?
I have a couple of computers that I bought in February 2012 (iMac, MacBook Pro) running OS 10.7.5, and I'd like to upgrade to Mavericks, but the forum shows all negative experiences with the upgrade, so I'm wondering whether I should wait to install. Thanks all.
Take care,
Brian
Thank you Michel, John, & rgilbert,
I'm neither a technophobe nor technophile--I fall somewhere in between, so I usually wait to upgrade any software until it's been out for a bit, same goes with purchasing hardware.
I work as a photographer, so I have to be able to get around a computer somewhat, and I've never had anything but Macs, which has been since 1992..
Michel, I had 16GB of RAM installed in both my iMac & MB Pro when I bought them, so I'm sitting pretty good for RAM, and I do most of my hardware business with an Apple specialist here in Madison or OWC.
And John, I automatically backup before any major installation, so no worries there.
I have no "crapware," no anti-virus--the only software that would maybe fall under this heading would be TechToolPro, and I don't think that counts.
And of course I know that in most cases folks don't say anything unless they're having a problem, but I always try to say something positive if I can with subjects like this.
I've never had an issue with any upgrades, with the exception of the iOS 7 for iPhone, and 7.0.3 pretty much cleared most of that up.
Two reasons I'm looking at doing it sooner than later: I read an article by another shooter that talked about the improvements in Mavericks for photographers, and I'd like to get familiar with it before I hit the road for a major job in two weeks.
Again, I want to thank you all for your help & time--I really appreciate it.
Take care,
Brian
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rtilghman wrote:
telling me to buy a new router is NOT a solution.
And why not? Apple is selling these things like BigMacs. They can't make enough of them. You've been suffering since May because you refuse to get a decent router.
Can you imagine if a company that makes a refrigerator told me that I needed to upgrade my electrical system to rectify a problem with their device? What kind of response IS that?!?!
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does anyone have any idea how one can keep their data on iPad after leaving icloud as it appears that you loose all data when doing this...its killing me!!!
rtilghman wrote:
telling me to buy a new router is NOT a solution.
And why not? Apple is selling these things like BigMacs. They can't make enough of them. You've been suffering since May because you refuse to get a decent router.
Can you imagine if a company that makes a refrigerator told me that I needed to upgrade my electrical system to rectify a problem with their device? What kind of response IS that?!?!
What if the problem with their device is that it requires a new-fangled "grounded" outlet and your circa 1890 house doesn't have grounded outlets. Would you refuse to purchase a $ 25 adapter on principle? -
After moving to iCloud I can only get my email through the cloud, no new emails are making it to my home computer and .mac account. Does anyone have any advice on how to fix this issue?
Welcome to the Apple Community.
Which OS are you using. -
My MacBook Pro (2010) is runnign very slow. This came on all of a sudden. It opens, closes, reboots, etc., all much slower than ever before. I have used the repair disk permissions without any positive result. Does anyone have any ideas?
First, back up all data immediately, as your boot drive might be failing.
Take these steps when you notice the problem.
Step 1
Launch the Activity Monitor application in any of the following ways:
☞ Enter the first few letters of its name into a Spotlight search. Select it in the results (it should be at the top.)
☞ In the Finder, select Go ▹ Utilities from the menu bar, or press the key combination shift-command-U. The application is in the folder that opens.
☞ Open LaunchPad. Click Utilities, then Activity Monitor in the icon grid.
Select the CPU tab of the Activity Monitor window.
Select All Processes from the menu in the toolbar, if not already selected.
Click the heading of the % CPU column in the process table to sort the entries by CPU usage. You may have to click it twice to get the highest value at the top. What is it, and what is the process? Also post the values for % User, % System, and % Idle at the bottom of the window.
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Next, select the Disk Activity tab. Post the approximate values shown for Reads in/sec and Writes out/sec (not Reads in and Writes out.)
Step 2
You must be logged in as an administrator to carry out this step.
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I have an early 2008 Mac Pro, 8 gb ram with a Dell 27” display and a 42” LG TV. I am thinking about upgrading the stock ATI Radeon 2600 graphics card for better resolution, preferring 2 dvi outputs or 1 dvi and 1 vga vs 1 dvi and a mini. I don't do a lot of Final Cut Pro, gaming, etc. I am interested in best value for the graphics card.
Does anyone have any suggestions on the best graphics card for these larger displays for the best value?
Thanks,
KevinI recommend you install nothing older than the Apple-firware 5770, about US$250.
RE: Mac Pro Replacement Graphics cards
1) Apple brand cards,
2) "sold in the Apple store" cards, and
3) "Mac Edition" cards ...
... show all the screens, including Boot up screens, Safe Mode, Installer, Recovery, debug screens, and Alt/Option boot screens. At this writing, these choices include:
1) Apple brand cards:
• Apple-firmware 5770, about US$250** works near full speed in every model Mac Pro, Drivers in 10.6.5
• Apple-firmware 5870, about US$450
2) "sold in the Apple store" cards
• NVIDIA Quadro 4000, about US$1200
• NVIDIA Quadro 5000, about US$2500
3) "Mac Edition" cards -- REQUIRE 10.8.3 or later:
• SAPPHIRE HD 7950 3GB GDDR5 MAC Edition, about US$480** Vendor recommends Mac Pro 4,1
• EVGA GTX 680 Mac Edition, about US$600
The cards above require no more than the provided two 6-pin aux power connectors provided in the Mac Pro through 2012 model. Aux cables may not be provided for third-party cards, but are readily available.
If you are Meet ALL of these:
• running 10.8.3 or later AND
• don't care about "no boot screens" etc AND
• can re-wire or otherwise "work out" the power cabling, THEN:
You can use many more cards, even most "PC-only cards" -
What's happened to the calendar in IOS 7.0? I would like to be able to see the whole day at a glance not just a few hours. Any suggestions?
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My ipad 2 will not connect to the internet I've tried to manually enter it but its not recognising it or finding any connections. I've reset it to factory settings twice and its not clearing it. Does anyone have any ideas??
Some things to try first:
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2. Go to Settings>Wi-Fi and turn Off. Then while at Settings>Wi-Fi, turn back On and chose a Network.
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4. Go into your router security settings and change from WEP to WPA with AES.
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6. Potential Quick Fixes When Your iPad Won’t Connect to Your Wifi Network
http://ipadinsight.com/ipad-tips-tricks/potential-quick-fixes-when-your-ipad-won t-connect-to-your-wifi-network/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Fix WiFi Issue for iOS 7
http://ipadnerds.com/fix-wifi-issue-ios-7/
iOS 6 Wifi Problems/Fixes
Wi-Fi Fix for iOS 6
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4823738?tstart=240
How To: Workaround iPad Wi-Fi Issues
http://www.theipadfan.com/workaround-ipad-wifi-issues/
Another Fix For iOS 6 WiFi Problems
http://tabletcrunch.com/2012/10/27/fix-ios-6-wifi-problems-ssid/
Wifi Doesn't Connect After Waking From Sleep - Sometimes increasing screen brightness prevents the failure to reconnect after waking from sleep. According to Apple, “If brightness is at lowest level, increase it by moving the slider to the right and set auto brightness to off.”
Fix For iOS 6 WiFi Problems?
http://tabletcrunch.com/2012/09/27/fix-ios-6-wifi-problems/
Did iOS 6 Screw Your Wi-Fi? Here’s How to Fix It
http://gizmodo.com/5944761/does-ios-6-have-a-wi+fi-bug
How To Fix Wi-Fi Connectivity Issue After Upgrading To iOS 6
http://www.iphonehacks.com/2012/09/fix-wi-fi-connectivity-issue-after-upgrading- to-ios-6.html
iOS 6 iPad 3 wi-fi "connection fix" for netgear router
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsWS4ha-dn0
Apple's iOS 6 Wi-Fi problems
http://www.zdnet.com/apples-ios-6-wi-fi-problems-linger-on-7000004799/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
How to Boost Your Wi-Fi Signal
http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/a/How-To-Boost-Your-Wi-Fi-Signal.h tm
Troubleshooting a Weak Wi-Fi Signal
http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/a/Troubleshooting-A-Weak-Wi-Fi-Sig nal.htm
How to Fix a Poor Wi-Fi Signal on Your iPad
http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/a/How-To-Fix-A-Poor-Wi-Fi-Signal-O n-Your-iPad.htm
iOS Troubleshooting Wi-Fi networks and connections http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1398
iPad: Issues connecting to Wi-Fi networks http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3304
WiFi Connecting/Troubleshooting http://www.apple.com/support/ipad/wifi/
How to Fix: My iPad Won't Connect to WiFi
http://ipad.about.com/od/iPad_Troubleshooting/ss/How-To-Fix-My-Ipad-Wont-Connect -To-Wi-Fi.htm
iOS: Connecting to the Internet http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1695
iOS: Recommended settings for Wi-Fi routers and access points http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4199
How to Quickly Fix iPad 3 Wi-Fi Reception Problems
http://osxdaily.com/2012/03/21/fix-new-ipad-3-wi-fi-reception-problems/
iPad Wi-Fi Problems: Comprehensive List of Fixes
http://appletoolbox.com/2010/04/ipad-wi-fi-problems-comprehensive-list-of-fixes/
Connect iPad to Wi-Fi (with troubleshooting info)
http://thehowto.wikidot.com/wifi-connect-ipad
10 Ways to Boost Your Wireless Signal
http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2372811,00.asp
Fix iPad Wifi Connection and Signal Issues http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwWtIG5jUxE
Fix Slow WiFi Issue https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2398063?start=60&tstart=0
How To Fix iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch Wi-Fi Connectivity Issue http://tinyurl.com/7nvxbmz
Unable to Connect After iOS Update - saw this solution on another post.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4010130
Note - When troubleshooting wifi connection problems, don't hold your iPad by hand. There have been a few reports that holding the iPad by hand, seems to attenuate the wifi signal.
Some Wi-Fi losses may stem from a problematic interaction between Wi-Fi and cellular data connections. Numerous users have found that turning off Cellular Data in Settings gets their Wi-Fi working again.
You may have many apps open which can possibly cause the slowdown and possibly the loss of wifi. In iOS 4-6 double tap your Home button & at the bottom of the screen you will see the icons of all open apps. Close those you are not using by pressing on an icon until all icons wiggle - then tap the minus sign. For iOS 7 users, there’s an easy way to see which apps are open in order to close them. By double-tapping the home button on your iPhone or iPad, the new multitasking feature in iOS 7 shows full page previews of all your open apps. Simply scroll horizontally to see all your apps, and close the apps with a simple flick towards the top of the screen.
Wi-Fi or Bluetooth settings grayed out or dim
http://support.apple.com/kb/TS1559
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If any of the above solutions work, please post back what solved your problem. It will help others with the same problem.
Cheers, Tom -
I've been in an administrative job at my university, in which I needed to be able to access lots of past email conversations. I ended up saving *everything* religiously, by copying each email or conversation into an "On My Mac" folder on either my home or office machine, flagging it as copied, then unflagging it and moving it to a like folder on the other machine. As a result I'v now got a trillion folders for various aspects of my job, filled with quite a few messages that I probably no longer even need, but they're way too many to go through and delete one by one. Unfortunately, I haven't made much use of the iCloud folders, but I'm so tired of having to essentially manually sync my stored mail in the manner I just described, that I'm thinking of starting to file everything to iCloud folders. The downside of that is that obviously if the internet is down and a given folder wasn't refreshed before it went down, I won't have access to the saved mail.
Moreover, I'm about to step down from the admin post -- within about 6 months a lot of what I saved won't be needed at all, and going forward, I won't need to save nearly the same quantity of messages for later reference. I'd like to come up with some viable "triage" strategies for limiting the mail I do save.
This is really just an open question: Does anyone have any good mail filing and storage techniques that you'd be willing to share? I'm especially interested in criteria you use for what you save and don't save, and where/how you save it.Well, the one set up on exchange 2k3 is now working fine, although no changes were made on either the iPhone or the exchange side, so that's fun, but it still is throwing errors when connecting to the other 2 exchange accounts. The common elements are that both non-functioning exchange accounts are google apps for business accounts. So is one of the ones that's working, by the way. The settings on both accounts are the same as the one that's working, and both worked fine before the 8.3 upgrade. I have no issue accessing both of these accounts on my ipad which is currently on 8.2.x. If it's not the iphone OS at fault, I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
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I'm getting a lot of pop up ads. mostly while using Facebook. I'm running Safari on a Macbook Pro running Yosemite. Does anyone have any suggestions for an Ad blocker. I don't see anything in the App store.
I can't swear to it but I don't recall this being a problem pre-Yosemite. I could be wrong. I haven't been real active on Facebook until recently. I see some third party apps out there but am alway wary of non approved software.
Thanks
RonYou may have installed the "VSearch" trojan. Remove it as follows.
Malware is always changing to get around the defenses against it. These instructions are valid as of now, as far as I know. They won't necessarily be valid in the future. Anyone finding this comment a few days or more after it was posted should look for more recent discussions or start a new one.
Back up all data before proceeding.
Step 1
From the Safari menu bar, select
Safari ▹ Preferences... ▹ Extensions
Uninstall any extensions you don't know you need, including any that have the word "Spigot," "Trovi," or "Conduit" in the description. If in doubt, uninstall all extensions. Do the equivalent for the Firefox and Chrome browsers, if you use either of those.
Reset the home page and default search engine in all the browsers, if it was changed.
Step 2
Triple-click anywhere in the line below on this page to select it:
/Library/LaunchAgents/com.vsearch.agent.plist
Right-click or control-click the line and select
Services ▹ Reveal in Finder (or just Reveal)
from the contextual menu.* A folder should open with an item named "com.vsearch.agent.plist" selected. Drag the selected item to the Trash. You may be prompted for your administrator login password.
Repeat with each of these lines:
/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.vsearch.daemon.plist
/Library/LaunchDaemons/com.vsearch.helper.plist
Restart the computer and empty the Trash. Then delete the following items in the same way:
/Library/Application Support/VSearch
/System/Library/Frameworks/VSearch.framework
~/Library/Internet Plug-Ins/ConduitNPAPIPlugin.plugin
Some of these items may be absent, in which case you'll get a message that the file can't be found. Skip that item and go on to the next one.
The problem may have started when you downloaded and ran an application called "MPlayerX." That's the name of a legitimate free movie player, but the name is also used fraudulently to distribute VSearch. If there is an item with that name in the Applications folder, delete it, and if you wish, replace it with the genuine article from mplayerx.org.
This trojan is often found on illegal websites that traffic in pirated content such as movies. If you, or anyone else who uses the computer, visit such sites and follow prompts to install software, you can expect more of the same, and worse, to follow.
You may be wondering why you didn't get a warning from Gatekeeper about installing software from an unknown developer, as you should have. The reason is that the Internet criminal behind VSearch has a codesigning certificate issued by Apple, which causes Gatekeeper to give the installer a pass. Apple could revoke the certificate, but as of this writing has not done so, even though it's aware of the problem. This failure of oversight has compromised both Gatekeeper and the Developer ID program. You can't rely on Gatekeeper alone to protect you from harmful software.
*If you don't see the contextual menu item, copy the selected text to the Clipboard by pressing the key combination command-C. In the Finder, select
Go ▹ Go to Folder...
from the menu bar and paste into the box that opens by pressing command-V. You won't see what you pasted because a line break is included. Press return. -
I am using Logic Pro 9 with two MXL 990 microphones in my piano and a Rode NT1A for vocals. I have tried recording with added reverb and keeping getting not a natural reverb sound, but a rather "pixilated" one that does not sound natural. Does anyone have any ideas on how to solve this issue? I have tried using Silververb and Space Designer, and both result in the same problems. Thank you!
This is asking for the impossible! It does not sound natural because maybe it isn't and in judging so whats your reference anyway. If you are in dire need of some natural sounding room you can go and record it yourself. But even then, the chances that it sounds like you imagined it, are very slim.
There are very decent sounding reverberation plugins, based on artificial reverb generators or convolution-style, the last one is said to sound more 'natural' then the first one. Be it as it maybe, it really is like cooking food. You got all the ingredients for this delicious taste at hand and believe it or not to reach a satisfying result this is not enough, because if you do not mix the ingredients in the right proportion you will end up with a different dish you thought you'll get. This is exactly the same when one would mix audio, I dare say.
So treat yourself to some good ingredients and the rest is up to you, namely: taste and experience!
And looking at some of my past music productions I always find the same plugins for the 'ambient' task:
Altiverb by Audio Ease when I have acoustic ensembles (classical music mostly), the Sony Oxford Reverb in studio productions, Bricasti when I have to deal with drums and MMultiBandReverb from MeldaProduction for all-round stuff. Thats the base I start from, after that I can end up with dozen Reverb plugins which basically all are doing the same thing but just in a tiny different way.
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