Does Apple want you to let the battery get low once a month or completely drained to zero%?
Does Apple want you to let the battery get low once a month or completely drained to zero%?
Of course, if you use the device it is likely that you will have charge cycles in any event.
On devices with percent charge indicators (iPad, iPhone) I believe that Apple recommends a charge cycle once a month to keep the percent indicator accurate.
Similar Messages
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when im not charging it I find when im doing a lot of browsing on social media and with pictures it goes through it fast kinda, and when im just writing documents it doesnt go as fast. My friend said I should only charge it when I need the computer for a long time.
Here is what Apple suggests:
For proper maintenance of a lithium-based battery, it’s important to keep the electrons in it moving occasionally. Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time. An ideal use would be a commuter who uses her notebook on the train, then plugs it in at the office to charge. This keeps the battery juices flowing. If on the other hand, you use a desktop computer at work, and save a notebook for infrequent travel, Apple recommends charging and discharging its battery at least once per month. Need a reminder? Add an event to your desktop’s iCal. When your battery no longer holds sufficient charge to meet your needs, you may choose to replace it. If your notebook came with a built-in battery, you should have the battery replaced only by an Apple Authorized Service Provider.
Apple - Batteries - Notebooks -
After the most recent update, I've noticed a couple MAJOR changes! 1) The battery life can barely make it through half the day. I have to keep charging it no matter how little I use it. I've even turned off apps running in the background, it didn't make much difference. And 2) When the battery gets really low, at the 10% mark, it deletes contacts and settings. I've lost so many contacts all of the sudden and I constantly have to restore my iPhone. It's so frustrating! And when the battery gets low, it also deletes my e-mail account to receive e-mails on the phone. I'm tired of having to constantly reset my phone carry a charger with me, it's not reliable any longer and I'm not sure why. Help??
Here is some information on the applecare +:
http://www.apple.com/support/products/iphone.html
It appears that you have to buy the applecare within 30 days of buying your phone - you said that your phone warranty is almost over, so when did you buy it??? That could be the explanation for the error. -
HT4933 Does Apple want a copy of the Phishing e-mail I get ?
Is there an e-mail address where I can forward what appears to be Phishing ?
The following is from this Apple document:iCloud: Why am I getting junk mail (spam)?
Report junk mail
You can report junk mail to the mail administrators of both iCloud and the Internet domain from which the email was sent. If the administrators can verify that the message is junk mail, they can help make sure that future messages from that sender aren't delivered to your mailbox. Follow the instructions for your email client:
OS X Mail
Open the message and choose “Forward as Attachment” from the Message menu.
Forward the message to iCloud [email protected]
Forward the message again to abuse@domain, replacing domain with the part of the sender's email address after the @ symbol. For example, if the sender's email address is [email protected], forward the message to [email protected]
OT -
My macbook pro simply dies when the battery runs low
I've got a MBP, running 10.6, and as of a few months ago, whenever the battery gets low to just a few percent, the computer simply shuts off. It used to go to sleep, which would allow me to plug it in and restore to where I was when it went into standby. It doesn't do that now, just a hard shut down and I've lost anything that was open. Any ideas how I can correct this and get my computer to sleep instead of dying? Thank you
It's getting low but not that low,
Try this:
Note: MacBook Pro (Early 2009) and later, all models of MacBook Air, and MacBook (Late 2009).
Shut down the computer.
Plug in the MagSafe power adapter to a power source, connecting it to the Mac if its not already connected.
On the built-in keyboard, press the (left side) Shift-Control-Option keys and the power button at the same time.
Release all the keys and the power button at the same time.
Press the power button to turn on the computer.
Note: The LED on the MagSafe power adapter may change states or temporarily turn off when you reset the SM -
so i bough an ipod touch 5th gen from a friend i went to the settings and tried to factory reset it the ipod...so i hit erase ipod then it went dark..then showed the apple sign and a line under it...but thats it it has had that on the screen for 2 days it wont connect to itunes and i did the rebot thing with the power and home button and it still wont do anything i need help please
Try:
- iOS: Not responding or does not turn on
- Also try DFU mode after try recovery mode
How to put iPod touch / iPhone into DFU mode « Karthik's scribblings
- If not successful and you can't fully turn the iOS device fully off, let the battery fully drain. After charging for an least an hour try the above again.
- Try another cable
- Try on another computer
- If still not successful that usually indicates a hardware problem and an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store is in order.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar -
what does apple plan to do for the people with 2nd gen ipod touch who want to have facebook and other apps now only compatible with ios 5?
poobs wrote:
what does apple plan to do for the people with 2nd gen ipod touch who want to have facebook and other apps now only compatible with ios 5?
Nothing. The 2nd Gen Touch is OBSOLETE and is WAY past its support life. If you want to run the newer apps you have to buy a newer iPod. -
hi. my iphone 3gs was stuck on apple logo, does not charging. when i replace the battery, it works, my promblem not is, in can't or won't read the simcard. i cant activate my phone. even i put att simcard. how can i activate it? please help me. thanks.
Apple recommends backing up the data when you're getting the battery replaced by them. So I assume that you will likely lose the data during this process.
Will the data on my iPhone be preserved?
No, during the service process all data on your iPhone will be erased. Before obtaining service, it is important to back up your data using iCloud or iTunes. Apple is not responsible for the loss of information while servicing your iPhone and does not offer any data transfer service. During service, Apple may exchange your iPhone with an iPhone that is new or equivalent to new in performance and reliability.
Following service, your iPhone may have a newer operating system (iOS) version and you will need torestore your data using the method used to back it up (iCloud or iTunes). As a result, you may also need to update your App Store applications to ensure compatibility with the newer iOS. If you experience a problem with an application purchased from the App Store, check to see if an update is available or contact the application vendor directly.
copied from Apple - Support - Service Answer Center -
How much space does apple give you for free in the cloud
how much space does apple give any user in the cloud
5Gb - http://www.apple.com/icloud/what-is.html
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Is it good to let the battery run down totally?
I know, with certain electronic items, it's recommended to periodically let the battery discharge completely in order to maximize battery life. Does anyone know if that's the case with the iPad battery?
Thanks.You are quite welcome.
This tells you want you want to know about your user ID for this site.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/1500907?threadID=1500907&tstart=2082 -
Whats better for my mbp 2013 retina in the long run? Keep it plugged in as much as possible or letting the battery hit 10% and then recharge it?
Odd you ask that, since both are HORRIBLE, ... especially often draining your battery low.
General consideration of your MacBook battery
Contrary to popular myths about notebook batteries, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot ‘overcharge’ your notebook when plugged in and already fully charged.
However if you do not plan on using your notebook for several hours, turn it off (plugged in or otherwise), since you do not want your Macbook ‘both always plugged in and in sleep mode’.
A lot of battery experts call the use of Lithium-Ion cells the "80% Rule", meaning use 80% of the full charge or so, then recharge them for longer overall life. The only quantified damage done in the use of Lithium Ion batteries are instances where the internal notebook battery is “often drained very low”, this is bad general use of your notebook battery.
A person who has, for example, 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 40% remaining of a 100% charge has a better battery condition state than, say, another person who has 300 charge cycles on their battery and is recharging at say 10-15% remaining on a 100% charge. DoD (depth of discharge) is much more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook’s battery than the count of charge cycles. There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in specific. Frequent high depth of discharge rates (draining the battery very low) on a Lithium battery will hasten the lowering of maximum battery capacity.
All batteries in any device are a consumable meant to be replaced eventually after much time, even under perfect use conditions.
If the massive amount of data that exists on lithium batteries were to be condensed into a simplex, helpful, and memorable bit of information it would be:
1. While realistically a bit impractical during normal everyday use, a lithium battery's longevity and its chemistry's health is most happy swinging back and forth between 20% and 85% charge roughly.
2. Do not purposefully drain your battery very low (10% and less), and do not keep them charged often or always high (100%).
3. Lithium batteries do not like the following:
A: Deep discharges, as meaning roughly 10% or less on a frequent basis.
B: Rapid discharges as referring to energy intensive gaming on battery on a frequent basis (in which case while gaming, if possible, do same on power rather than battery). This is a minor consideration.
C: Constant inflation, as meaning always or most often on charge, and certainly not both in sleep mode and on charge always or often.
From Apple on batteries:
http://www.apple.com/batteries/notebooks.html
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1446
"Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time."
Keep it plugged in when near a socket so you keep the charging cycles down on your LiPo (lithium polymer) cells / battery, but not plugged in all the time. When not being used for several hours, turn it off.
DoD (depth of discharge) is far more important on the wear and tear on your Macbook battery than any mere charge cycle count. *There is no set “mile” or wear from a charge cycle in general OR in specific. As such, contrary to popular conception, counting cycles is not conclusive whatsoever, rather the amount of deep DoD on an averaged scale of its use and charging conditions.
(as a very rough analogy would be 20,000 hard miles put on a car vs. 80,000 good miles being something similar)
*Contrary to some myths out there, there is protection circuitry in your Macbook and therefore you cannot overcharge it when plugged in and already fully charged
*However if you don’t plan on using it for a few hours, turn it OFF (plugged in or otherwise) ..*You don’t want your Macbook both always plugged in AND in sleep mode (When portable devices are charging and in the on or sleep position, the current that is drawn through the device is called the parasitic load and will alter the dynamics of charge cycle. Battery manufacturers advise against parasitic loading because it induces mini-cycles.)
Keeping batteries connected to a charger ensures that periodic "top-ups" do very minor but continuous damage to individual cells, hence Apples recommendation above: “Apple does not recommend leaving your portable plugged in all the time”, …this is because “Li-ion degrades fastest at high state-of-charge”.
This is also the same reason new Apple notebooks are packaged with 50% charges and not 100%.
Contrary to what some might say, Lithium batteries have an "ideal" break in period. First ten cycles or so, don't discharge down past 40% of the battery's capacity. Same way you don’t take a new car out and speed and rev the engine hard first 100 or so miles.
Proper treatment is still important. Just because LiPo batteries don’t need conditioning in general, does NOT mean they dont have an ideal use / recharge environment. Anything can be abused even if it doesn’t need conditioning.
Storing your MacBook
If you are going to store your MacBook away for an extended period of time, keep it in a cool location (room temperature roughly 22° C or about 72° F). Make certain you have at least a 50% charge on the internal battery of your Macbook if you plan on storing it away for a few months; recharge your battery to 50% or so every six months roughly if being stored away. If you live in a humid environment, keep your Macbook stored in its zippered case to prevent infiltration of humidity on the internals of your Macbook which could lead to corrosion.
Considerations:
Your battery is subject to chemical aging even if not in use. A Lithium battery is aging as soon as its made, regardless.
In a perfect (although impractical) situation, your lithium battery is best idealized swinging back and forth between 20 and 85% SOC (state of charge) roughly.
Further still how you discharge the battery is far more important than how it is either charged or stored short term, and more important long term that cycle counts.
Ultimately counting charge cycles is of little importance. Abuse in discharging (foremost), charging, and storing the battery and how it affects battery chemistry is important and not the ‘odometer’ reading, or cycle counts on the battery.
Everything boils down to battery chemistry long term, and not an arbitrary number, or cycle count.
Keep your macbook plugged in when near a socket since in the near end of long-term life, this is beneficial to the battery.
In a lithium battery, deep discharges alter the chemistry of the anode to take up lithium ions and slowly damages the batteries capacity for the cathode to transport lithium ions to the anode when charging, thereby reducing max charge levels in mAh. In short, radical swings of power to lithium cells disrupts the chemical ecosystem of the battery to hold charges correctly which likewise impedes the perfect transfer of lithium ions both in charging and discharging. In charging your lithium battery, lithium ions are “pushed uphill” (hard) to the anode, and discharged “downhill” (easy) to the cathode when on battery power. Deep discharges, damages this “upward” electrolyte chemistry for the battery to maintain a healthy charge and discharge balance relative to its age and cycles.
Optimally, in terms of a healthy lithium battery and its condition, it is most happy at 50% between extremes, which is why low-power-drain processors such as the Haswell are ideal on lithium battery health since a partially charged battery with a low-drain processor has, in general, much more usage in hours
Battery calibration, battery memory, battery overcharging, battery training, …all these concepts are mostly holdovers from much older battery technology, and on older Apple portable Macbooks ranging from early nicads, NiMh and otherwise; and these practices do not apply to your lithium battery and its smart controllers.
Calibrating the battery on older Apple portable Macbooks with removable batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH14087
There is no calibration of current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries.
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1490
There is no battery calibration with current Apple portable Macbooks with built-in batteries. Lithium batteries have essentially a 0-‘memory’, and all such calibration involve the estimations fed to the system controller on the SOC (state of charge) of the battery over long periods of time as the battery degrades. The software based battery controller knows the battery's characteristics, or SOC and adjusts itself. This is why there is both no need and purpose to periodically deeply drain your macbook battery, since it doesn’t affect the characteristics of the battery, and further still deep discharges are something you should not do on purpose to any lithium battery.
From BASF: How Lithium Batteries work
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjyJhe7Q1g
Peace -
I had hacker problems so I reloaded Snow Leopard. Afterwards, Mac had to delete 798 items. Now it is looping on 4 items to delete for the past 2 weeks. I can't reboot, reload, or restart. I have to let the battery run down for it to turn off. I think a big part of the problem is that someon one the internet (the hacker) was mirroring my hard drive. It seems to have locked up my system. I could be wrong about this guess, though. All I do know is that it is now looping on the last 4 iems, and I can't do anything.
Well, I can get it to turn on, but all it does is continously try to delete the last 4 items. When I try to reload Snow Leopard, it tells me my hard drive is full and that I need to delete items.
Can anyone help? I am so lost without my Mac. I am back on the PC, and though it works, I'm sure many of you will understand when I say it's just not a Mac.
Thanks.I installed Snow Leopard using my Apple external Superdrive. I followed directions I found on the Apple site. Here is the article info: Mac OS X v10.6 Snow Leopard: How to Erase and Install
Article HT3910
located at: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3910
Everything was going smoothly until I got to the reinstall part. I had to choose to reinstall on a hard drive or network drive. I've never used a network drive; just the hard drive. It seems that's where the troubles began. I selected the hard drive. It seemed to go well, and then I got the message that I needed to delete some files because I was out of space. I chose to get rid of my music files, but, there were only 636. I don't know what the rest of the files were. I was using the Secure Empty Trash command.
That was my first time doing an erase and install. I tried to do it again, but I now get a continuous error telling me that my hard drive is full and I must delete files. Only I can't delete files because 4 files are still being deleted and my computer won't let me stop the process.
I found out about the hackers mostly by the fact that whenever I used to watch something like Hulu or Netflix, I never had problems with internet connection or speed. Lately, I had internet connection problems. I went in to check my settings for my internet provider and found out the settings had been changed to public and all these extra computers were connected to my network. -
My new macbook pro has gone black on me three days in a row. is this a chronic problem?
The only way to get it back is a hard reset or let the battery die and then plug in the charger. The brightness is up and the power stays on while screen is black.
This is the second macbook pro i have owned in the past two weeks. I am ready to return it for good if this is a chronic issue. Please help if you have had this same issue.Try a SMC reset:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964
Try a NVRAM/PRAM reset:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1379
If no joy, take it back, and take full advantage of your warranty!
You also may want to let Apple know about this as well:
http://www.apple.com/feedback//
I wish you the best -
Should I let the battery run down before charging my iPad or iPhone or iPod Nano to help the battery last longer? I took a class at Verizon and they said let it drain completely and it would last longer. Thanks
The quickest way (and really the only way) to charge your iPad is with the included 10W USB Power Adapter. iPad will also charge, although more slowly, when attached to a computer with a high-power USB port (many recent Mac computers) or with an iPhone Power Adapter (5W). When attached to a computer via a standard USB port (most PCs or older Mac computers) iPad will charge very slowly (but iPad indicates not charging). Make sure your computer is on while charging iPad via USB. If iPad is connected to a computer that’s turned off or is in sleep or standby mode, the iPad battery will continue to drain.
Apple recommends that once a month you let the iPad fully discharge & then recharge to 100%.
How to Calibrate Your Mac, iPhone, or iPad Battery
http://www.macblend.com/how-to-calibrate-your-mac-iphone-or-ipad-battery/
At this link http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/galaxy-tab-android-tablet,3014-11.html , tests show that the iPad 2 battery (25 watt-hours) will charge to 90% in 3 hours 1 minute. It will charge to 100% in 4 hours 2 minutes. The new iPad has a larger capacity battery (42 watt-hours), so using the 10W charger will obviously take longer. If you are using your iPad while charging, it will take even longer. It's best to turn your new iPad OFF and charge over night. Also look at The iPad's charging challenge explained http://www.macworld.com/article/1150356/ipadcharging.html
Also, if you have a 3rd generation iPad, look at
Apple: iPad Battery Nothing to Get Charged Up About
http://allthingsd.com/20120327/apple-ipad-battery-nothing-to-get-charged-up-abou t/
Apple Explains New iPad's Continued Charging Beyond 100% Battery Level
http://www.macrumors.com/2012/03/27/apple-explains-new-ipads-continued-charging- beyond-100-battery-level/
New iPad Takes Much Longer to Charge Than iPad 2
http://www.iphonehacks.com/2012/03/new-ipad-takes-much-longer-to-charge-than-ipa d-2.html
Apple Batteries - iPad http://www.apple.com/batteries/ipad.html
Extend iPad Battery Life (Look at pjl123 comment)
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/3921324?tstart=30
New iPad Slow to Recharge, Barely Charges During Use
http://www.pcworld.com/article/252326/new_ipad_slow_to_recharge_barely_charges_d uring_use.html
Tips About Charging for New iPad 3
http://goodscool-electronics.blogspot.com/2012/04/tips-about-charging-for-new-ip ad-3.html
Prolong battery lifespan for iPad / iPad 2 / iPad 3: charging tips
http://thehowto.wikidot.com/prolong-battery-lifespan-for-ipad
In rare instances when using the Camera Connection Kit, you may notice that iPad does not charge after using the Camera Connection Kit. Disconnecting and reconnecting the iPad from the charger will resolve this issue.
Cheers, Tom -
My older iPod classic says when I dock it either with charger or hooked up to computer that the battery is low, the apple symbol appears, you can hear a whirring sound (hard drive coming on) then a clicking sound and then back to low battery message. Has been doing this for the last week.
Hey there Kevin,
It sounds like your iPod Classic is exhibiting some unexpected behaviour when you have it connected to your computer with the usb cable. I suggest the troubleshooting steps in the following article to help troubleshoot the device:
iPod classic Troubleshooting Assistant
http://www.apple.com/support/ipod/five_rs/classic/
Start by resetting the iPod, then retesting the issue.
Reset
To reset your iPod:
1. Toggle the Hold switch on and off. (Slide it to Hold, then turn it off again.)
2. Press and hold the Menu and Center (Select) buttons simultaneously until the Apple logo appears, about 6 to 10 seconds. You may need to repeat this step.
Tip:
If you are having difficulty resetting your iPod, set it on a flat surface. Make sure the finger pressing the Select button is not touching any part of the click wheel. Also make sure that you are pressing the Menu button toward the outside of the click wheel, and not near the center.
If the above steps did not work, try connecting iPod to a power adapter and plug the power adapter into an electrical outlet, or connect iPod to your computer. Make sure the computer is turned on and isn't set to go to sleep.
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
All the very best,
Sterling
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