Does Toshiba 39L4333 support antenna power supply

I can't find anywhere information about that feature,
Can this TV supply active antenna?

I think such feature should be mentioned in user manual in case it would be supported.
http://www.toshiba-om.net/LCD/PDF/English/L4333-323950-English.pdf
The user manual (page 7) provides details and information about the available sockets.
It looks like the LNB IN (Satellite antenna L436* series only) supports 18V / 400mA Max power.
Other antenna port does not provide power.

Similar Messages

HT1490 When my macbook is fully charged, does the charger switch the power supply off, or does it continue to 'charge'?

When my macbook is fully charged, does the charger switch the power supply off, or does it continue to 'charge'?
(If I leave my laptop to charge whilst I'm out and it reaches 'fully charged' but is still switched on, will this continue to 'charge' my laptop? Or will it destroy my batter over time?)

When the charge cycle completes, the pilot light on the MagSafe connector changes from orange to green. At that point the battery will be kept in standby mode, and the computer will be kept running with electrical power from the charger. If you want to keep an eye of where the power is coming from, get the latest release of the Coconut Battery utility: http://www.coconut-flavour.com/coconutbattery/

Does Toshiba 32L3433DG supports Flash player to watch videos

Hi all,
I'm interested in buying Toshiba 32L3433DG led tv, a really good smart TV, but searching on internet I couldn't find these information, I hope you can help me:
Does the open browser of *Toshiba 32L3433DG* supports *Adobe Flash Player* for online videos?
If yes is it possible *upgrade* Flash Player to the latest versions?
Thank you in advance!

Hi
This Smart TV supports Open Browser and other TV apps like HbbTV which allows you to use the different smart services.
The Open Browser dont support flash player but it supports the HTML5 video and audio codecs which allows you to explore the web the way you want to.
http://forums.toshiba.com/t5/Televisions-Knowledge-Base/Open-Browser/ta-p/361526

Does Toshiba 46TL938G support 3D FPT-AG03 glasses?

Hello,
a couple of days ago i received my Toshiba TL938G TV .
The shop provided also 4 glasses FPT-AG03.
I checked the TV manual and inside are listed the only the FPT-AG01 and FPT-AG02 glasses as
compatible.
Does someone know if the FPT-AG03 are compatible as well ?
Regards
Message was edited by: Alarm_1

As far as I know the 3D Active Shutter Glasses FPT-AG03 are compatible with all Toshiba 3D TVs which support the active shutter 3D technology.
But of course you can use also the FPT-AG01 or FPT-AG02 glasses

Does "dual power supply" mean "redundant power supply"?

Does Cisco7301 "dual power supply" mean "redundant power supply"?
If unplug one power socket, 7301 continues operating?

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Posting
On a 7301, I believe it does act as a redundant power supply, and this is often true for many Cisco devices with dual power supplies, but there can be exceptions. For example, on the 6500 chassis, you might use dual power supplies in combined mode, i.e. failure of a power supply would leave the chassis short of necessary power. The 3560X/3750X might also have insufficient power if a power supply fails when running on two (this issue may arise when using PoE).

Choosing the Right Power Supply

First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
If you want to know more, read on...
Choosing The Right Power Supply
If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
(As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
K7N2G-ILSR
Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
ATI Radeon 9600
120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
30GB Quantum IDE
TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
BTC DVD-ROM Drive
Artec CD-R/W
Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc. Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
Not yet.
I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
William Hopkins
Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
B.A., B.S., with Honors
The University of California, San Diego
[email protected]
P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

RV082 power supply query?

Can we buy the primary power supply as spare for router “RV082”? Also, does this support redundant power supply?
Do we have a doc on accessories for Cisco small business?

Hi Amiller, there is no toggle switch. It supports both. So long as you have a correct power adapter/source should not be any problems.
Here's the datasheet for more power info
http://www.cisco.com/en/US/prod/collateral/routers/ps9923/ps9926/data_sheet_c78-501227.pdf
-Tom
Please mark answered for helpful posts

Apple Hardware Test & My Power Supply

I was wondering if the Apple Hardware Test does any check on the Power Supply.
I was planning on replacing mine on a Mac Pro (Early 2008). I have been having a constant freeze from wake issue, and the system refuses to power on from a cold start unless I let it rest unplugged for 24-48hrs.

Assuming it is/was getting good power and there aren't any problems with power itself, it sure sounds like SMC or logicboard or something.
Can't hurt to do an extended test.
The wake from sleep freeze type issue for 2008s early on was suppose to be fixed and resolved by an EFI firmware update last year (Apr/May time frame?).
I'd take it in.
Sometimes swapping parts is all that can be done to see if a component is at fault.

Redundant Power Supply

Hi everyone,
I would like to know if the SG500-28 supports redundant power supply (means 2 power inputs) ?
Thank you.

Thank you for your response Mr. Lewis.
In fact, I need to know either if the native hardware of the SG500-28 switch supports the power redundancy or not.
P.S : I don't really know when did I create this account, but it is certain that I was harry So thanks for reminding me to change this awesome nickname
odjdj uhdhudh FOR EVER

RD640 power supply monitoring ( WMI) status

hiFor RD640, if monitoring of the status of Power supply ( hot swap?) need to be done, what is the WMI namespace/class/path that will return the status? I have already attempted to query by cim_powersupply but nothing returns. wmic path cim_powersupply get * Does easy manage monitors the power supply at all? Thanks

hiFor RD640, if monitoring of the status of Power supply ( hot swap?) need to be done, what is the WMI namespace/class/path that will return the status? I have already attempted to query by cim_powersupply but nothing returns. wmic path cim_powersupply get * Does easy manage monitors the power supply at all? Thanks

Kpo81aa power supply

I recently obtained a used kp081aa docking station for my EliteBook 6930p. However, it does not have a working power supply (or any power supply, for that matter). I am going to purchase a replacement, but want to make sure I get the correct type.
Does anyone know a model or SKU number that I can use to find the right adapter? Or even just the proper Voltage and Wattage so I don't blow up my computer?
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance for your help...

Interesting question.
Very short answer:
CPU fan.
Longer answer:
1. I use smcFanControl to control the speeds of my 3 fans in my iMac (2.8 GHz)
2. My "standard" settings are:
CPU fan: 1600 rpm
Hard Drive fan: 1600
Optical Drive fan: 1100
and my "typical" power supply temp is 65° C.
3. I did an experiment and bumped each fan separately up to its maximum speed.
a. Optical Drive fan: from 1100 -> 4400
PS temp: from 65 to 64
b. HDD fan: from 1600 -> 5500
PS temp: from 65 to 68 !! Oops.
c. CPU fan: from 1600 -> 3300
PS temp: from 68 to 42. Yea! But, it is noisy.
4. I then dropped the CPU fan speed to 2000 rpm and the PS temp is now at 52. I can hear the fan, but barely.
I am glad that you asked this question as I have reset my standard to 1800 rpm for the CPU fan. It is quiet and I appear to have a 10° C drop with an increase of 200 rpm.
One thing is clear to me. Apple's default fan speed settings are too low. We should not have to buy smcFanControl to extend the life of our iMacs, the proper speeds should be built into the machine/firmware/software.

Power supply in MDD dual 867 shot?

I arrived home today to find that my Dual 867 G4 was powered down, though I had left it on when I left this afternoon. Not only that, but it won't turn on at all - the power button doesn't light up, there's no spinning of the disks, no chime, nothing. I've unplugged and re-plugged the power cord, switched out surge protectors, plugged it directly into the wall socket - no dice. One thing I did notice, though, is that when I plugged the power cord into the back of the G4 after I had disconnected it, I hear a very faint and periodic short noise, maybe every one second, from the back of the G4. Almost like a short buzzing noise, but too quiet and brief to really be called that.
Does this sound like the power supply is shot? Like it's shorted or burnt out in some way? Thankfully I have two iBooks to use in the meantime, but most of my daily used files and such are on the 4 hard drives in the G4, and there's no space for them (particularly my music) on either of these laptops.
If I do need a new powersupply, does anyone have recommendations for sources? It seems sellers on ebay want the sell them for over $100.
Thanks,
Anthony

Hi,
Yes, that does sound like a power supply issue. It could also be a bad CPU card, or even the motherboard. To isolate the problem, I'd take out the power supply and measure the voltages across the different pairs of wires in the plug that feeds the motherboard. If the voltages don't equal what they should, as per the G4 MDD service manual, then you're in the market for a new power supply. And yes, the ones on eBay will go for 100-150 or so. Make sure it's stated to come from a working system. Untested power supplies could be dead ones from a similar dead machines.
If the power supply voltages are OK, then to isolate whether or not the motherboard, or CPU card is bad will require a spare motherboard, or CPU card, to swap with yours.
Sources for new, or rebuilt, power supplies include WeLoveMacs , DVwarehouse, HarCoreMacs , among many others.
Here is a good set of pictures and step-by-step instructions on taking the MDD power supply apart.
In my case, I had a spare motherboard and power supply to test with. The machine, which I got cheap off of eBay because it didn't work, did not turn on at all. Swapping first the Power supply with a good one didn't bring it back to life. Turns out the CPU card and the power supply were both bad. Once both were replaced, the MDD machine has worked fine.
Good luck!
Ed

ASA 5512 - monitor power supply status via snmp oid

Device – ASA 5512 running 9.1(1).
Show version:
ASA-1# sh ver
Cisco Adaptive Security Appliance Software Version 9.1(1)
Device Manager Version 6.6(1)
Compiled on Wed 28-Nov-12 11:15 PST by builders
System image file is "disk0:/asa911-smp-k8.bin"
Config file at boot was "startup-config"
ASA-1 up 8 hours 38 mins
Hardware:   ASA5512-K7, 4096 MB RAM, CPU Clarkdale 2792 MHz, 1 CPU (2 cores)
            ASA: 2048 MB RAM, 1 CPU (1 core)
Internal ATA Compact Flash, 4096MB
BIOS Flash MX25L6445E @ 0xffbb0000, 8192KB
Issue: looking for a snmp OID to poll power supply status (Inbuilt Power Supply - no redundant power supply in this scenario). Possibly what we see in show environment.
CSE analysis:
I tried using the OIDs belonging to CISCO-ENTITY-FRU-CONTROL-MIB , like cefcFRUPowerOperStatus and cefcFRUPowerAdminStatus but it didn’t return anything.
NOTE: I have done all the snmp walks from the Linux server. Do I doubt it’s something to do from the snmp manager side.
Couple of observations. The CISCO-ENTITY-FRU-CONTROL-MIB talks about the field replaceable power supplies, so I doubt if it’s going to return the value for inbuilt power supply.
Second, I noticed that there are snmp traps supported for power supply and threshold setting. See configuration below. Is it that only traps works for power supply and environment related details?
Snmpwalk on cefcFRUPowerStatusEntry returns nothing:
[root@tonbenso-eagle bin]# ./snmpwalk -v2c -c public 172.16.169.29 1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.117.1.1.2.1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.117.1.1.2.1 = No Such Object available on this agent at this OID
Snmpwalk on cefcFRUPowerOperStatus returns nothing:
[root@tonbenso-eagle bin]# ./snmpwalk -v2c -c public 172.16.169.29 1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.117.1.1.2.1.2
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.117.1.1.2.1.2 = No Such Instance currently exists at this OID
Snmpwalk on cefcFRUPowerAdminStatus returns nothing:
[root@tonbenso-eagle bin]# ./snmpwalk -v2c -c public 172.16.169.29 1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.117.1.1.2.1.1
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.117.1.1.2.1.1 = No Such Instance currently exists at this OID
[root@tonbenso-eagle bin]#
login as: root
I tried polling the ciscoEntityFRUControlMIB to see what all values it return. It just returned enterprises.9.9.117.1.3.1.0 = INTEGER: 2. Meaning cefcMIBEnableStatusNotification is FALSE (value 2). Meaning cefcModuleStatusChange, cefcPowerStatusChange, cefcFRUInserted, cefcFRURemoved, cefcUnrecognizedFRU and cefcFanTrayStatusChange are prevented from being sent.
Snmpwalk on ciscoEntityFRUControlMIB
[1]+ Stopped                 ./snmpwalk -v2c -c public 172.16.169.29
[root@tonbenso-eagle bin]# ./snmpwalk -v2c -c public 172.16.169.29 1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.117
SNMPv2-SMI::enterprises.9.9.117.1.3.1.0 = INTEGER: 2
Object
cefcMIBEnableStatusNotification
OID
1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.117.1.3.1
Type
TruthValue
Permission
read-write
Status
current
MIB
CISCO-ENTITY-FRU-CONTROL-MIB ; - View Supporting Images
Description
"This variable indicates whether the system
produces the following notifications:
cefcModuleStatusChange, cefcPowerStatusChange,
cefcFRUInserted, cefcFRURemoved,
cefcUnrecognizedFRU and cefcFanTrayStatusChange.
A false value will prevent these notifications
from being generated."
Found couple of bugs:
CSCty32558 – but then this is for 5585 and I see it is fixed in 8.4
CSCul90037 – New state
Show snmp-server oidlist:
http://www-tac.cisco.com/Teams/ks/c3/getLargeFile.php?srId=632222409&fileName=20141030-013905_ASA-show-snmp-server-oidlist.txt
Show tech:
Sh run | in snmp:
ASA-1# sh run | in snmp
snmp-server host asa 172.18.123.228 community *****
no snmp-server location
no snmp-server contact
snmp-server community *****
snmp-server enable traps entity power-supply-presence power-supply-temperature -----à I was talking about this trap above
any help will be appreciated.

Hi
I've got an ASA with redundant power supplies. An ASA5585. So I have the need to monitor them. :-) So how can we do it?
Also I've made a SNMP-Walk through the ASA v8.4(2)8 and it doesn't show up any ENV-MIB values. The
1.3.6.1.4.1.9.9.13 tree is not available. Are you shure it's available on the ASA?
Funny is also that the command "show snmp-server oidlist" from the 8.4 configuration guide is not available on the real CLI. I think the documentation guys were faster than the coders. ;-)
Kind regards
Roberto

Power supply for AGP graphics - 20 pin vs 22 pin?

So, the power supply on my G4 Sawtooth (dual 450) is about half dead. I looked online, figured out which part I needed, and actually found one on Ebay. It was kinda easy. Then I took it to my Aunt's house (she's a tech) to install, and lo and behold... I have a 22 pin connector on my motherboard. The power supply (that everything online pointed to as the correct part) is a 20 pin. So of course, that isn't going to work.
I checked out everything again last night and all over the place I see that the Sawtooth has a 20 pin connector. Mine is 22, I swear... what in the ****??? Why the discrepancy? And does anyone need a 237W power supply?
Thanks,
Brooke
12" PB 867, G4 Sawtooth D450, Indigo iBook Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Gigabit G4, Digital Audio, Quicksilver and later Macs have a different power supply and motherboard that passes 28 Volts DC from the power supply to a connector for the ADC port graphics card. 28 VDC is passed to the Graphics card ADC port to power Apple's ADC monitors.)
If you are not using a ADC monitor, you might could cut off the connector from your existing supply & the purchased supply & connect the 22-pin connector to the purchased supply.
Here's some links of power supply sellers.
We Love Macs http://www.welovemacs.com/apposu.html
HardCoreMac http://store.yahoo.com/hardcoremac/powersupplies.html
Not sure if the Apple Part #s are marked on your existing supply & purchased supply, but the links have the Apple Part#s for the various Mac models.
Cheers, Tom

Power Supply on Toshiba NB205-N325BN

My question is on the battery. Once I have it fully charged should I unplug the power supply and run it until it needs to be charged again or should I leave it plugged in. Will leaving it plugged in damage the battery?

Once it's fully charged if you are going to be using it for a long time then remove the battery and run it on the AC alone. Batteries have a limited amount of charge/recharge cycles so the more you run it on the battery alone the sooner the battery will wear out. They also can be worn out by constantly charging them when they are fully charged. When the battery is fully charged the only time I run with the battery installed is when I'm performing a bios update, system recovery, or some specific task where I simply can not take a chance of the system shutting down accidently.
If you don't post your COMPLETE model number it's very difficult to assist you. Please try to post in complete sentences with punctuation, capitals, and correct spelling. Toshiba does NOT provide any direct support in these forums. All support is User to User in their spare time.

Does Toshiba 39L4333 support antenna power supply

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