Doesn't record consistently with Blue Fire recording ap ?

Using an iPod touch with a Mikey Blue Fire microphone and Blue Fire application. Records great and then the next time it won't record at all.

My "" was intended to let you know that I was merely responding to your joke: there can be no such thing as an "External Mic" that is built into a Mac (or anything else.)
"External" and "built-in" are opposite terms. Because you are confused by this, I suggest that you contact Apple or an Apple Authorized Service Provider for service. The service technicians will identify and correct the underlying problem quickly and efficiently. They can also explain the problem to you in as much detail as you need. Then you will be able to fix the trouble yourself if your strange symptoms arise again in the future.

Similar Messages

The rendered records are not consistent with the range

After changing the range with record navigator to render the records,
if navigate to other page and go back,the rendered records will not be
consistent with the record range.
The issue can be reproduced as follows.
1.when select 1-10 range,the first 10 records are rendered.
2.select [Next 10 records] to render the 11-13 records.
3.change to other page and return to the original page.
It is found that the 11-13 records are rendered but the range is 1-10.
You can verify the issue by executing SampleMainPG.xml of the Tutorial.jpr for 11.5.10.2
from Jdeveloper after changing the SampleMainCO.java as below.
* Layout and page setup logic for a region.
* @param pageContext the current OA page context
* @param webBean the web bean corresponding to the region
public void processRequest(OAPageContext pageContext, OAWebBean webBean)
super.processRequest(pageContext, webBean);
if (pageContext.getTransactionValue("link") != null)
OAAdvancedTableBean inner = (OAAdvancedTableBean)webBean.findChildRecursive("InnerTable");
inner.clearCache(pageContext);
inner.setAttributeValue("CLEAR_CACHE_ONCE_NOEXECUTE_ATTR", Boolean.TRUE);
<==comment out these original source above.
OAAdvancedTableBean outer = (OAAdvancedTableBean)webBean.findChildRecursive("OuterTable");
outer.queryData(pageContext, false);
<==add the two rows of source above to get the latest query data.
you should to make the records of the table fwk_tbx_employees to be more than 10 just using the SQL script below.
(just need to change EMPLOYEE_ID at your will)
INSERT INTO fwk_tbx_employees (
EMPLOYEE_ID,
TITLE,
FIRST_NAME,
MIDDLE_NAMES,
LAST_NAME,
FULL_NAME,
EMAIL_ADDRESS,
MANAGER_ID,
POSITION_CODE,
SALARY,
START_DATE,
END_DATE,
LAST_UPDATE_DATE,
LAST_UPDATED_BY,
CREATION_DATE,
CREATED_BY,
LAST_UPDATE_LOGIN,
ATTRIBUTE_CATEGORY,
ATTRIBUTE1,
ATTRIBUTE2,
ATTRIBUTE3,
ATTRIBUTE4,
ATTRIBUTE5,
ATTRIBUTE6,
ATTRIBUTE7,
ATTRIBUTE8,
ATTRIBUTE9,
ATTRIBUTE10,
ATTRIBUTE11,
ATTRIBUTE12,
ATTRIBUTE13,
ATTRIBUTE14,
ATTRIBUTE15 )
VALUES (
17,
'ichiro',
'yamada',
'ichiro yamada',
1,
0,
sysdate,
sysdate,
sysdate,
0,
sysdate,
0,
0,
it seems that if use the functions below,the issue can be workarounded.
But it is not clear whether there is any other impact from these functions.
innerTable1.clearCache(pageContext);
innerTable1.setAttributeValue("CLEAR_CACHE_ONCE_NOEXECUTE_ATTR", Boolean.TRUE);
Could you please share your idea?
Thank you very much in advance.
Best regards,
Wang

FYI. I was able to do what I wanted by first going to page properties and removing unwanted fonts from appearance. Then edit the page, select all, change style to normal, then select the text where you want to use a different style and change style there. This gives consistent appearance with both browsers.

Since Yosemite, Snoball mic not recognized; regular input doesn't record either

I desperately need to get a video to a small group of students in India who are doing work for me.
I'm using Screenflow, which I know Apple doesn't support. But even in Quicktime and Garageband, I can't get the computer to recognize my Snoball mic. I can't find any way to record for these kids, because the sound is so nonexistent. I can't even record with regular input.
I think my computer may be 2.5 to 3 years old. Is it too old for Yosemite? Is there any way I can roll it back to whatever came before? Or is the computer ruined? Recording is one of the main things I need to do daily. And I've been non-funcrioning since before Christmas.
It was fine prior to upgrading. I don't know why I did. I should have known better. I really, really should have. I'm so mad at myself I could --- ahhh, ****, what the ****!
I've read tons of discussions on sound failures with Yosemite, but none matched my issue. Anybody have suggestions? Already reset the PRAM.

OK, after another couple of hours of searching I found this:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4219793
This solved my question by stooooooober on Aug 20, 2012 1:13 PM
OK! Thanks everyone for all of the help, but I just got in touch with Blue support, and it seems that the way they program their devices, the computer is only able to recognize one at a time. You can send it in and have them reprogram it so your computer can differentiate them.
Weird work around, but I guess that at least answers the question of why its not working.
I have a support request in to Blue, but I'm going to be upset if I have to buy another, different type, mic to get multi track recording. If that's the case, it will definitely be a different brand...

HT1338 I am having problems with safari logging into a website. I need to log in on safari in order to download some books to blue fire reader. It keeps saying password is wrong but it's not. I checked lower case etc. I can log in on any other browser bu

I can log into this particular website on all browsers but safari. Says wrong password and it's not! I need into t
This website on safari in order to download books to blue fire reader. I've contacted support with no luck. They told me
Go to wed developer and I thought Apple was safaris developer? someone help!

On your iPad ???
Tap Settings > Safari then tap to clear History, Cookies, and Deta.
Then reset your iPad..
Press and hold the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button together for at least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
If that doesn't help, tap Settings > General > Reset > Reset All Settings
No data is lost due to a reset.
If you are referring to Safari on your Mac, from the Safari menu bar click Safari > Preferences then select the Privacy tab.
Click: Remove All Website Data
Then empty the Safari cache.
Back to Safari > Preferences then select the Advanced tab.
Select: Show Develop menu in menu bar
Now click Develop from the menu bar. From the drop down menu click Empty Caches.
Quit and relaunch Safari then try logging in to that website.

My ipad 3rd generation doesn't record video or audio, nor does it play any media?

My iPad doesn't record. When I press the record button on the video camera it does nothing. When i try to watch a youtube video, it doesn't play it and the same with music on my playlist. When i press play it just switches to the pause button for a split second and then switches back to the play button. Can anybody please help?

Have you tried restarting or resetting your iPad?
Restart: Press On/Off button until the Slide to Power Off slider appears, select Slide to Power Off and, after the iPad shuts down, then press the On/Off button until the Apple logo appears.
Reset: Press the Home and On/Off buttons at the same time and hold them until the Apple logo appears (about 10 seconds). Ignore the "Slide to power off"

In my 4s display option doesn't come to change colours when I go to Setting-General. I am bored with blue colour. Please advise.

In my 4s display option doesn't come to change colours when I go to Setting-General. I am bored with blue colour. Please advise.

Go to Settings > Wallpapers & Brightness.

I've a iMac 27', summer of 2012, and my garageband doesn't record by the internal microphone, what can I do, to resolve this problem?

i've a iMac 27', summer of 2012, and my garageband doesn't record by the internal microphone, what can I do, to resolve this problem?
only for contextualize, in other softwares the microphone record correctly like quicktime, or in facetime, even photobooth. but in garage band not.
i dont know if its a problem of the software, an error of actualization, or a bad configuration. please give me a hand.
cheers.

Did you choose the mic as the input device in Garageband Preferences?

I just downloaded ios 7 and when I'm recording video the camera screen goes black and doesn't record anything. Also in control centre music control doesn't work sometimes. It's been three days.

I just downloaded ios 7 and when I'm recording video the camera screen goes black and doesn't record anything. Also in control centre music control doesn't work sometimes. It's been three days.

Try:
- Reset the iOS device. Nothing will be lost
Reset iOS device: Hold down the On/Off button and the Home button at the same time for at
least ten seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
- Reset all settings
Go to Settings > General > Reset and tap Reset All Settings.
All your preferences and settings are reset. Information (such as contacts and calendars) and media (such as songs and videos) aren’t affected.
- Restore from backup. See:
iOS: How to back up
- Restore to factory settings/new iOS device.
If still problem, make an appointment at the Genius Bar of an Apple store since it appears you have a hardware problem.
Apple Retail Store - Genius Bar

Satellite Pro L20 doesn't work properly with USB Fast Track audio i.f.

Hello!
I have used my Fast Track USB on new Toshiba Satellite L40 and I never had problems with it. I could set low latency and I did few songs with it.
Yesterday I bought another notebook, thinking of home recording studio. It's used Toshiba Satellite Pro L20. It doesn't work properly with my interface. When I listen music on Winamp or do anything on Fruity Loops I hear loud clicks, pops, noises. They introduce samples, or they appear during playback or after a sample is stopped.
I noticed, drivers for Satellite Pro L20 are a problem. Its not supported by Toshiba anymore?! The only drivers for chipset are very old and you can download em only from Toshiba website. The chipset is ATI Xpress 200M. Its drivers are with graphic card. Recently I noticed you can download "ATI Catalyst Legacy Display Driver for Windows XP - Motherboard/IGP Drivers 9.11" and CRACK IT to make it possible to install on mobile unit such as L20. Yep its funny but its impossible to do otherwise!
things I have tried and they still not help:
# drivers replacement, original were released in 2004. I installed recent version.
# driver settings, low latency, high latency
# asio and different settings
# pluging the interface to another usb socket.
# trying what happens when I use battery and when I use adapter
# updated bios
# turned off onboard units such as wifi card, sound card
# checked IRQ list
pops still appear.
my config:
Toshiba Satellite Pro L20
Win XP Home SP3
Celeron M 1,5GHz
896Mb ram
M-Audio Fast Track USB, drivers: 6.0.2
Kind regards

Thanks for answer. I still have L40 but I try to run my homerecording on L20. The L40 is now used by whole my family. It's possible to swap them but there's a problem - L20 has Norway keyboard and I'm the only person at home who doesn't often look down while typing. In Poland, we use standard ms keyboard. I'd buy special stickers, it's about only to make special chars get back to their places.
I installed Windows on this computer end set it to best performance possible.
Since I created this thread, guys from M-Audio support tried to solve my problem - nothing helped. I think potential solutions are exhausted.
Message was edited by: lidia.pochron

SQL Developer: Right-click format doesn't work right with DATE datatype

Hi All!
Currently I'm using version SQL Developer Version 3.1.05.
Got a question regarding the 'auto-format' of syntax whenever writing in the code editor.
If you take this snippet of code and drop it into a worksheet, then highlight it, right click the mouse, then select "format" it's like it fails to add the proper spacing when it runs into the DATE datatype. I looked all through the : preferences > database > sql formatter > oracle formatting > edit and couldn't find anything regarding the formatting with date types.
Am I looking in the wrong area?? Is this a known bug? Having trouble searching for this exact issue too. I LOVE the format feature, but I hate having to go to each date type and manually spacing it out to make everything look 'clean'. I'm picky I guess :P I can live with it but figured I'd ask.
type TEMP_REC
IS
record
ORG_CODE VARCHAR2(15),
PROJECT VARCHAR2(15),
WBS VARCHAR2(30),
SERIAL_NO VARCHAR2(30),
QTY_ORDERED NUMBER,
QTY_SCRAPPED NUMBER,
QTY_COMPLETE NUMBER,
BOM_ID NUMBER,
REQUEST_DATE DATE,
CREATE_DATE DATE,
REL_DATE DATE,
START_DATE DATE,
NEED_DATE DATE,
DUE_DATE DATE,
COMPLETE_DATE DATE,
CREATED_BY VARCHAR2(30),
MODIFIED_BY VARCHAR2(30),
MODIFY_DATE DATE,
EST_HOURS NUMBER(6,2),
ACT_HOURS NUMBER(6,2),
BAD_COMMENTS VARCHAR2(1000) );

Hello,
I put 3.1.07 as you'd suggested. Seems the problem is still occuring for me... probably a user preference though ;)
Open a new worksheet and drop this in, highlight everything, right-click and choose "format". All the keywords (varchar2, number, etc) should align on themselves making it look nice. I have mine set up to line-break after a comma. (I can't get it to format properly as I type it here onto the forums, so added a bunch of spaces to try to mimic it in this view)
type TEMP_REC
IS
record
LEAD_TIME NUMBER(5,0),
SCRAP_PERCENT NUMBER,
CREATED_BY VARCHAR2(30),
MODIFIED_BY VARCHAR2(30),
OPER_SEQ VARCHAR2(6),
REF_NO VARCHAR2(2000),
COMMENTS VARCHAR2(2000),
BOM_FLAGS VARCHAR2(100),
BOM_ATTR1 VARCHAR2(30),
BOM_ATTR2 VARCHAR2(30),
BOM_ATTR3 VARCHAR2(30),
BOM_AMT1 NUMBER,
BOM_AMT2 NUMBER,
BAD_COMMENTS VARCHAR2(1000) );
Now, let's add another field in there, but this time a date/timestamp datatype. If you format it like this you will see that the keywords sort of 'reset' their position after it encounters a date/timestamp datatype. The date type doesn't align properly with the others.
type TEMP_REC
IS
record
LEAD_TIME NUMBER(5,0),
SCRAP_PERCENT NUMBER,
CREATED_BY VARCHAR2(30),
MODIFIED_BY VARCHAR2(30),
OPER_SEQ VARCHAR2(6),
REF_NO VARCHAR2(2000),
test DATE,
COMMENTS VARCHAR2(2000),
BOM_FLAGS VARCHAR2(100),
BOM_ATTR1 VARCHAR2(30),
BOM_ATTR2 VARCHAR2(30),
BOM_ATTR3 VARCHAR2(30),
BOM_AMT1 NUMBER,
BOM_AMT2 NUMBER,
BAD_COMMENTS VARCHAR2(1000) );
Might post a picture next time if that still isn't clear, though I konw folks are leary against clicking links to see screenshots. Might you know what I'm doing wrong here?

I need help with adding fire to an existing picture in elements 8

I'm a painting contractor and I'm trying to create a new picture for my buisness cards and tee shirts. What I want to do is put flames coming from a brush and work pot that I'm holding in my hands. I've looked everywhere on line, but I can't find exactly what I want. I'm hoping that someone in this forum will be able to help me. Thanks.

Okay, I have been playing with for a few days. Warning, this is going to be loooong. I do this differently in Photoshop but couldn't get it to work with the elements workset as it doesn't have the curves tool that Photoshop has so I had to find an alternate method to pump up the flames. Luckily, I ran into a video that used a method other than curves to get me on track. I assumed you want realistic flames...so I was pushing for how real could I make flames using paint and blend mode operations.
Edit: I should let you know that you can try to extract flames from other photos and composite them into your photo. First, need a good fire image. It works best if you can find a fire with a black background. Screen blend mode will drop out black. Try working with two copies of the image. Turn off the topmost copy of the flames. Leave the bottom flames in Normal blend mode. Mask or erase the outer edges of the flames with a soft brush so that only the interior of the flames are visible. Now, turn on the topmost version of the flames. Leave the topmost version of the intact...don't mask or erase anything. Change this topmost flame layer's blend mode to screen blend mode. If you see any problems with your flames, you can erase or mask any defects. You can duplicate the screen layer to brighten the effect. Use opacity to control the volume. This would be the easiest solution but you'll have to find some flames that trip your fancy. I haven't tried this out yet so can't say how much better or worse it would be than using a good set of flame brushes along with some blend mode tricks.
Below shows how close I can get using paint. I only used options available in PSE. I used layer masks that if you had PSE 9 would be native. Since you have PSE 8, you'll need to either download an install an add on that adds the basic layer mask function or use clipping masking.
Below is a link to a freeware set that includes layer masks. Install instructions are on that site.
http://www.cavesofice.org/~grant/Challenge/Tools/Files.html
If you want to go the clipping mask route, have a look at this tutorial:
http://www.photokaboom.com/photography/learn/Photoshop_Elements/layers/layer_groups_clippi ng_masks/1_layer_groups_clipping_masks.htm
Before and After the effect.
I would have posted sooner but had to find a workable solution to making the flames look realistic in Elements as I can’t use the curves tool as it isn’t native to Elements.
With the help of this YouTube video I came up with something…
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cOIBkWvHOqk&feature=related
I based this tutorial on the hue/sat numbers, blend modes, and blurs.
First, I downloaded a flame brush set. This set in specific:
http://luexo.deviantart.com/art/Scorching-Flames-Brushpack-92945924
The above set is really nicely done and has large high resolution brushes.
One thing I do not agree with in the video is the color used. White is hard to change in the Hue/Saturation dialog. Instead I use 50% gray as my paint color. This is easy to set…either use the 50% color swatch or open the Color Picker and set H to 0, S to 0, and B to 50...hex number is 808080.
Things to keep in mind include fire is gaseous, bright and the way it burns…it one direction, fire reflects and there is probably going to be some smoke.
In my example, I am going to set a lunch cake. Nice 4th of July theme. J
Let’s start my scorching the item that will be burned. In this case the lunch cake will be scorched.
Scorch the item…preparing to light it up.
1. Duplicate image and put image into Linear burn blend mode; opacity 100%. Add layer mask or erase everything but the item to be scorched…the lunch cake.
2. Duplicate layer you just made in step #1. Change the blend mode to Multiply 100%. Desaturate this layer. Image Adjustments<Hue/Saturation…move Master Saturation slider to -100. Take burn tool set to Range: Midtones; Exposure 35%; air brush on…and scorch the item. Make it kind of smudgy. You don’t want an even coat. Make it darker as you get closer to the flames.
Note: Here I’ve jumped ahead. I already know where my flames are going to be. Either visualize where you want your flames or jump ahead and laid down the basic paint and transform into the correct position. Turn off flame layer (s) when done. So step #3 if you do any repair work isn’t affected.
3. If you feel you need to do any clone repairs, create a composite image ctrl + shift + alt + e if on PC…cmd + shift + opt + e if on a Mac. Do the clone work on a blank layer over this. With clone tool selected, check the box in the options bar that says something like “All Layers”, “Use All Layers”, “Sample All Layers”…the box says one of those things beside it. I can’t recall which and not sure if it’s consistent between all versions of Elements. Anyway, Leave layer in Normal blend mode 100% and likewise leave tool in Normal blend mode…opacity to taste. Fix any defects on this layer. You can do the same thing with the healing brush if you need to do any healing. I find it best to heal to a separate layer and not mix and match the healing tool and clone stamp on the same layer.
4. Turn off or trash the Clone Stamp comp layer when finished with step #3.
Let’s Build a Fire…
5. Create a blank layer in the layers palette….Normal blend mode; 100% opacity. Make white your foreground color chip. Grab the paint brush tool…normal blend mode; 100% opacity. Paint one flame on your layer. I have used the 1220 sized flame near the bottom of the brush set I linked earlier. Use the transform command …Ctrl + t (PC) or Cmd + t (Mac)…to size and position the flame. I used also slightly warped the flame using transform warp. Since you don’t have that in Elements…slightly warp the flame in the liquefy dialog.
Note: The above flame is pretty much backlighting…you are done with it.
6. Change the color foreground color chip in your layers palette to 50% gray. Use the same brush tip you used in step #5. Size and position it so it closely matches the white flame in Step #5. Go to liquefy dialog and slightly warp it.
Note: The goal is for the flames in step #5 and step #6 to be very similar but not exact.
7.. Duplicate the 50% gray flame you made in step #6 twice. Turn off the top 50% gray flame for now.
Fire is Bright...
8. Now that video comes in that I linked.
(1) Blur the 50% gray flame with Gaussian blur. I used 6 pixels. Go to menu and click Enhance or is it Adjustments<Hue/Saturation…check the box that says “colorize”; change master sliders to Hue 42; Saturation 100; Lightness 0.
(2)Duplicate the flame you made above…step (1). Go to the menu bar and click Enhance or is it Adjustment<Hue/Saturation…change master sliders to Hue -43; saturation 0; Lightness 0. Change this layers blend mode to Color Dodge blend mode and merge down…Ctrl + e on PC; cmd + e on Mac.
Note: This layer will now say Normal blend mode; 100%.
(3)I duplicated the merged layer I now have from step (2). I changed the blend mode of this layer to Screen and set the opacity to 100%.
(4) I made a duplicate of the layer I have made in step (2)…the one that now says it’s in Normal blend mode; 100%… then blurred it with Gaussian blur. I used 46 pixels. I moved this layer down in my layers palette so that it rests beneath my other two colored flame layers. The white flame layer is directly below it. Leave this layer in Normal blend mode; 100% opacity.
9. Go back to 50% gray flame you made in step #6...visibility eye should be off. You should have two of these gray layers if not duplicate one so that you do have tow 50% gray flame layers. (These were not blurred.) These two layers need to be on the top of the stack. If they are not, move them up so that they are the top two layers. Turn on the visibility of the bottom 50% gray layer. Change the layer’s blend mode to Screen blend mode; opacity 100%. Grab the burn tool. Burn some of the flame base and randomly in the flame of the 50% gray. Press and hold in the alt key (PC) or the opt key (Mac) and dodge the tops of the flames and do some random dodge work.
10. Turn on the visibility for the top 50% gray layer. Leave this one alone…no dodge + burn. Set this layer to Screen blend mode; opacity 96%.
11. Add layer masks to white and color flame layers…not the gray ones. Paint away any unattractive color spill. Bright orange edges…bright white distractions where flame edges don’t align.
12. Make a composite layer of all layers up to date. Set this layer’s blend mode to multiply; opacity 47%. Add a layer mask and mask out everything but the flames. Tip: You can select the flames by ctrl + shift clicking on each flame layer thumbnail…the shift lets you add to a selection. On the Mac, cmd + shift click the layer thumbnails.
Flames Reflect…
13. Make a copy of one of your blurred color flames. Transform it so it rest over item that it should reflect on. In this case I have added a blurred flame onto my son’s eye. The flame is in Overlay blend mode; 33% opacity.
14 Several steps Eye enhancements to my son’s eye…omitted because it’s off topic
15. I used a gradient map with a fire like black/red/yellow/white gradient map set to Softlight blend mode; 17% to give my image a hint of a color cast. I masked it so only some skin, hair, and car areas have this slight color cast.
Where there’s fire there is going to be some smoke...
16. To make my smoke, I made a separate large document my photo size. I set my color chips to the default b/w. (Shortcut is D.) I went to menu bar and clicked Filter<Render<Clouds. Next I went back to my menu bar and clicked Filter<Render<Difference Clouds. I used Ctrl + f to repeat the Difference Cloud filter until I was happy with the effect…looking for swirled black lines…kind of like lightning. (If on a Mac, use Cmd + f to repeat a filter. I then used the transform command to enlarge the pattern I made. Be sure to scale it so that height and width both are enlarged equally. Next, go to the men bar and select<All ; Edit<Crop. You want to do to get rid of the excess. I think I transformed my patter to something like 200% which makes the file really big. You can do it on your image file but because of file size the transform will take a really long time. When happy copy/paste or drag/drop this pattern into your photo file.
17. Now blur pattern really good using Gaussian blur. Now, add a layer mask to your pattern layer. Click the layer mask in the layers palette to target it and run the the clouds and difference clouds on the mask just as you do on the pattern layer. Just those filters…no blur.
Basic smoke pattern final
18. Duplicate this layer w mask twice. You should have three smoke copies. Turn off all but the bottom pattern copy. Use the paint brush and paint black in mask to hide the smoke everywhere but where you want to keep it. Set this layer’s blend mode to Multiply blend mode; opacity 15%.
View of the inside one of the smoke layer masks
19. Turn on the visibility of the next smoke pattern. Again use a black paint to paint where you don’t want paint. (Make this variable as you want the smoke to be varying opacity.) Layer blend mode Multiply; opacity 15%.
20. Turn on the visibility of the next smoke pattern…top one in stack. Again use black to paint where you don’t want the smoke. Set this layer’s blend mode to Multiply blend mode; opacity 1%.
Fire is Gaseous...
21. Make a composite of all layers by pressing ctrl + shift + alt + e if on PC. Use Cmd + shift + opt + e if on a Mac. Blur your composite image. I used 3 pixels. Set the blend mode to Normal; opacity 64%. Add a layer mask and fill it with black paint to hide the blur effect. Use the paint brush with white paint in the layer mask to blur any sharp edges and base of flames. Remember flame is gaseous.
Above shows my layers for completed image. Notice the comp for clone layer is off. I did not need it after I did the clone to a blank layer to add some scorched cake around my son's fingers.

Colors not consistent with Snow Leopard 10.6 on an Eizo SX2761W monitor

I am unable to get any color consistency with Snow Leopard 10.6 on my Eizo SX2761W display.
Most of the actual "content" (i.e. images, videos, websites, etc.) is displayed very saturated and dark, much more saturated and dark than in 10.5.8. I presume that's because of Snow Leopard's new gamma value. The problem is, all of OS X's GUI elements, like the dock, icons and color labels in the finder, title bar buttons, etc. are not displayed in the same manner. These elements are all very desaturated, pale and grayish. NoMachine NX sessions running in X11 (via Rosetta) also have this desaturated look in Snow Leopard.
Here's a screenshot comparison I put together, that shows those color inconsistencies using the example of Mozilla's Firefox logo on the web in Safari, on the web in an NX session and as an icon in the Finder and in the Dock:
http://dl.getdropbox.com/u/7276/SnowLeopard-ColorsAndContrast.png (1 MB)
As far as I could test it, I get these color/contrast discrepancies only on the Eizo SX2761W monitor. I checked this on a classic Mac Pro and a late Mac mini with the same results. On a MacBook and its internal display Snow Leopard's colors seem consistent.
I tried to recalibrate the SX2761W profile, I tried out all the other standard color profiles available in Snow Leopard, I tried to copy my old profiles over from a Leopard backup, but I was unable to get rid of the display inconsistencies. After a whole day of trying and tinkering I went back to 10.5.8 to get a consistent color environment back.
Any ideas what's causing this and more importantly what to do about it? I have to say I'm at my wits end. The only thing I can think of is mailing this issue to Apple in the hope there will be a point release in the not too distant future that fixes the problem.

I have what I assume is the same problem. It just started today on my DELL WFP2407 - but remains even when switching to my MacBook Pro's built in screen.
The Dock, Safari, the desktop background - and probably other colour managed applications; all show very pale blue hues with over saturated red. Blue goes towards purple and other colours get muddled and pale. Oddly the Finder displays colours correctly on icons, but not the dock. I took a screenshot of Finder's Safari icon next to The Dock's:
http://www.nuxx.dk/hosting/paledock.png
- Clearly showing significant inconsistency... I just updated to 10.6.1 which didn't change anything.
Needless to say I tried calibrating a new colour profile to no effect, and seeing as the finder itself renders things just fine I'm not sure that's where the issue lies.
This is a huge problem for me, I hope there is a simple solution.
Message was edited by: nuxxie

Encoded video doesn't work on Toshiba Blu-ray disc player

I have a problem that I am trying to encode a sequence of frames in a video container , but the encoded video doesn't work on toshiba blu ray disc player .. I am using the following ffmpeg command to encode frames and convert them to a video:
ffmpeg -i "C:\ManVsWigan\Frames\%d.png" -vcodec libx264 "C:\ManVsWigan\encoded.mp4"
I tried multiple video codecs but no luck yet
"-vcodec mpeg4"
"-vcodec mpeg2video"
If you have any idea please help me

The BluRay player leverages parts of Windows DirectShow but won't serve very well as a general player since Windows will load other players for the majority of media formats.
You can get away with a limited amount of tampering of the BluRay's players tolerance of media files until you violate some far away written DRM safeguard and kneecapping the BluRay player from doing anything.
If you're trying to validate your ffmpeg composed tests of your content as part of the editing process, you're better to avoid relying on the BluRay player that is purposed for narrow replay of licensed content and equipped with oversensitive safeguards susceptible to malfunctioning from the invasions of video pirates like you defined by studio executives.
You and I understand you're not a pirate but chances aren't being taken.
Whether you just dowloaded FFmep in the macho exe format or part of the millions of other packages that include it, you can tune your players to codecs pretty easily with the KLite Codec Manager or the Registry.
Chances are you already know about KLite since editing video on Windows eventually requires it and its hard to walk down the street without eventually kiceking over a copy. But just in case you've been living on a Martian cave with your hands over your ears, snag a mirrored copy from: http://codecguide.com /download_kl.htm
I like KLite more than others because it is fairly unobtrusive and avoids stomping over other media tools the way Adobe Premiere or Sony Vegas enslaves Windows and can neuter BluRay codecs without always adequately replacing them. I can cite threads on the matter but just googling for anything such as "Adobe Premier killed my BluRay" or "Sony Vegas ruined Windows" will usually return desperate strings of posts long enough to wrap around Jupiters equator.
For general maintenance of Windows poor codec management, grab this noninstalling executable http://www.nirsoft.net/utils/installed_codec.html to determine if Windows believes it has the same codecs you thought it did and you'll likely be surprised by the fine tuning you'll need to perform.

IMac with Blu-Ray or HD-DVD drive. When?

Is there any info about when iMacs with Blu-Ray or HD-DVD drive will be available?

Apple sits officially in the Blu-Ray camp so HD-DVD is less likely.
A slot-loading drive exists but only Apple know when and if they choose to use it in the iMac.
At this time even the Mac Pro doesn't have it as an option (unless you install yourself for $700, although that does inc Toast Ti).
mrtotes

Sync Problem with Blu Ray

I have a sync problem when using Premiere Pro CS5 to burn Blu Ray DVDs and wondered if anyone has had similar problems and has found a simple solution.
Equipment: Panasonic HMC-150 (AVCHD), shot at 59.94 fps, 720. MacPro with operating system up to date, quad core, 16 GB RAM, Nvidia Quadro 4000. PP CS5 also has all current updates downloaded.
When the AVCHD files are imported, they tend to be out of sync by 8 to 22 frames. I manually resync and edit. Then burn a Blu Ray DVD using Encore and end up out of sync again. I must be doing something wrong but can't figure it out. At this point, the only solution I can think of is to try to figure out how far out of sync I am once the DVD is burned and offset the audio that amount before transcoding.
Has anyone encountered this problem before? Any suggestions?
Thanks.

I have done some more tests and have determined that the problem only exists with Blu-ray. When I burn a non blu-ray dvd, video and audio remain in sync. I attempted to export to Final Cut Pro 7 using the export xml feature, but it doesn't work. I brought the original footage into FCP and burned a portion of it to blu-ray using the Share feature and there was no sync problem. So I guess my only alternative at this point is to re-edit the entire video in FCP.
In Premiere Pro I've checked to make sure that both the camera and the intake were set for no drop frame and they were. I've tried double checking the audio sync using the audio line out from the Mac rather than the firewire out to the Mackie Mixer, just in case there was a latency problem, which didn't seem logical and there wasn't any difference. It can't be a problem with the blu-ray burner since it works in FCP7. I'm running out of ideas of things I can tweak in Premiere, other than guessing just how far out of sync the program pushes the audio and then unlinking audio and pushing it the same number of frames the other direction before burning the blu-ray, but that will be hit and miss and it will start getting expensive throwing away blu-ray disks.
Any other ideas would be appreciated. Thanks. Jon

Doesn't record consistently with Blue Fire recording ap ?

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