Dual 20s on a PC

At present I've got a Apple 20 ACD running on a BFG 6800GT in my PC. I will be upgrading to a 6800 Ultra (as soon as it arrives) and I am going to at some point get a second 20 inch. Now the problem is that the DVI connector for the ADC is larger then other DVI connectors and this causes a problem with having two Apple DVI connectors side by side see this web page for example.
http://213.239.205.233/synapps/bin/view/Main/CinemaDisplayWindows
I did a little research and found a few DVI adapters that should allow me to hook the two of theses up. I know someone has had to have run into this on a PC and was curious as to the solutions they might have come up with other then the Creative solution of taking off the connectors casing.
Any thought suggestions?
BTW
System: Alienware Area-51
OS: Win XP SP2
Video: BFG 6800GT OC

http://www.synapps.de/synapps/bin/view/Main/CinemaDisplayWindows.
Scroll down to "Two Displays". It's a brute-force method, but it's free and gets the job done

Similar Messages

Photographer upgrading from Dual 2.5Ghz to 8 core

Hi there. I hope someone can help me with this dilemma. I am a photographer who has been working with jpg's since the inception of digital photography. I am now at the point where I want to switch to RAW (bigger better files) as memory and storage prices now make this an affordable option.
The machine I have at the minute is a dual 2.5Ghz with 4.5Gb of RAM and an ATI Radeon 9800 256MB graphics card. It is just a bit slow when processing RAW in Adobe Lightroom to the point where I'm always waiting for it to catch up with my adjustments of large batches of files.
The question is --- will an 8 core Mac Pro make a big difference and if yes then what would be the ideal configuration be to make it work the fastest?
After reading the post by Badlydrawnboy and in-depth answers, I think it is a no-brainer as to how to arrange disks. So I guess this question is all about machine specs.
Any help appreciated.
Al

Having moved from the quad G5 to this machine i have noticed a large improvement in speed, particularly in Aperture. The graphics card determines to a large extent the performance of Aperture. So if moving to the MacPro, order the x1900. Stripe 0 your library across 2/3 of the internal drives (WD Raid edition 2's with 500 or 750GB'ers).
My test raw file took ~2m20s to render full screen and on my MP its 20s. If you edit in Aperture mostly in order of the adjustments showing within the HUD you will be very impressed.
Intel will be launching new procs within the next 6 months, with a 1600MHz Front side bus, over todays octo xenon's 1300MHz and more on-chip cache. If they make their way into MP's then there should be another speed bump.
But its an if/or when scenario. Today's octo MP is quite a beast and i'm hoping the core-swapping of Tiger is improved with Leopard. Also hope that Aperture's next release becomes more threaded (unlike search's solo-core task!).
I can heartily reccommend the MP and in particular the octo for Aperture and video work. Read the forums for optimal memory configuration, particularly Hatters and Ned's comments.

SX20 Dual displays- How to mirror

Hi,
I have several SX 20s with dual display licenses and 2 displays installed.
I want both displays to show the same thing with both video and presentation shown on each display.
I've tried setting the same role on both monitors with no luck.

Hi,
I tired the settings you suggest with no luck. I'm running 7.3.2
When not in a call I see video and content on monitor 1 and a clock and booking info on monitor 2
When in a call I see content and video on monitor 1 and a black screen on monitor 2.
Thanks,
David

Dual Buffering problem at FMS 3.5

I am trying to configure Flash Media Server to support dual Buffer Strategy. I have read lot of posts here, but no answers.
Audio 80Kb live broadcast.
I want to quick start play after 2 seconds and then expand buffer to 10seconds.
Dual Buffering Strategy.
When i test wowza 2.0 it works like a charme.
But if i test the same player code with FMS 3.5 it quick start play but instead of expand buffer it empty 10s buffer...
What is wrong? Why can i play at wowza and not with FMS3.5?
WOWZA 2.0:
TIMER EVENT
BUFFER LENGTH: 11.215
BUFFER TIME: 9.9
TIMER EVENT
BUFFER LENGTH: 11.215
BUFFER TIME: 9.9
TIMER EVENT
BUFFER LENGTH: 11.169
BUFFER TIME: 9.9
FMS 3.5:
FMS 3.5
BUFFER LENGTH: 9.253
BUFFER TIME: 9.9
TIMER EVENT
BUFFER LENGTH: 7.212
BUFFER TIME: 9.9
TIMER EVENT
BUFFER LENGTH: 5.257
BUFFER TIME: 9.9
TIMER EVENT
BUFFER LENGTH: 3.217
BUFFER TIME: 9.9
TIMER EVENT
BUFFER LENGTH: 1.203
BUFFER TIME: 9.9
Why this behaviour?
I Want to use FMS3.5 but with this issue i will have to change to WOWZA if not solved

Hello,
This was exactly my problem Henry. With Wowza didn't have to change nothing and the behavior was what i was expecting. The live broadcast starts imediatly and the buffer is something like 8s-10s. With FMS i simple couldn't do it, just with DVR.
Jay : "Let's look at it from the other direction... why are you trying to create delay on the live stream?"
I now the concern jay mentioned about the low latency aspect but sometimes low latency is not an issue, live broadcast without any kind of cuts , yes that's an issue that is important for me. Ok BUFFER of 30s = LATENCY of 30s but if someone unplugs the network cable i want that the live broadcast should be able to play for 30s, this means that the application can be more stable with several bandwidth fluctuations.
The main question is, how to avoid cuts on the live audio stream and have a low latency ?
What's the point of this article ? Does this article http://www.adobe.com/devnet/flashmediaserver/articles/fms_dual_buffering.html really solve this issue ? For me it didn't, I'm streaming an AAC feed with FMLE and set initial buffer 2s; extended buffer 15s and the buffer length was always
1.7
1.8
2.1
1.9
It never raised to 15s
For me to have a extended buffer of 15s it means that we have to make some kind of latency of 15s in the live broadcast, and the "low latency" settings that come by default with FMS simple make this scenario...not possible.
The solution
Ok now I've implemented the DVR (checked the box on FMLE for DVR Recording...etc...etc...and had to change the code on the player to play the DVR stream ) Now it starts to play on the fly and with a buffer of 20s ..... But why did i had to implement this feature ? What are the negative impacts on the FMS Server ? Doesn't this solution is specific for seeking and going back on the audio features ? I don't know..in fact it solved my problem but will i have performance issues on the FMS server ? Will it store the broadcast indefinitely ?? should I be worried ?
It feels that just for a solution as simple as an extended buffer of 15s with an instant play on the flash player should be easier to implement.
Appreciate any feedback and tks for the post
pemicabe

Ultra 20 dual-core upgrade: when and what?

Does anyone know when Sun will make a dual-core upgrade kit for the Ultra-20s available? From what I understand, it shouldn't take much more than a new processor and some BIOS changes.

Call Sun, the only CPU related CRU currently available is the fan/heatsink!

How large of a hard drive can I install on dual G5, and do I need more RAM?

I recently had a situation in which my dual-processor 2.0 G5 was completely refurbished by Apple repair-new logic board, both processors, video card, thermistor, all new. Finally it has been working well after a month of trips back and forth from the Apple store. I have two internal hard drives installed on my G5, both 300GB, one for OS applications, and one for audio. I am running out of space on my main hard drive, and so I recently purchased a Maxtor 1TB hard drive, now manufactured by Seagate, from Fry's. After having my G5 refurbished, I was having an issue with my Samsung 930B monitor going into sleep mode when I boot-up from a CD, but other than that G5 was working fine. I removed the main 300GB hard drive from slot #1 and put it into slot #2, from which I had removed my audio hard drive. I installed the Maxtor drive in slot #1 and reformatted it for Mac using my laptop with ATA/USB cables previously purchased for data transfer. This took about 14 hours as I used the "zeros" option. After that I hooked up the internal cables to both drives and tried to boot up from Leopard in order to install it on the Maxtor drive, but again my monitor went into to sleep mode. We went to the Apple store to try to see if there was an issue with the computer, but everything worked fine with their monitors and CD's, as well as my CD. So there is some kind of issue with my monitor, probably software as it works fine when booting up from the main hard drive, and also was fine when I did its self-test function. While at the Apple store, they installed Leopard from their hard drive which took about 30 minutes.
My problem is this: When I arrived home, I turned on my G5, which had been set to boot from my new Maxtor drive and complete the Leopard setup process, which we had decided to do at home as it would have taken another 20 minutes in the Apple store. The G5 turned on, chimed, I got the Apple screen with the wheel, but then after that my monitor goes into sleep mode. I can hear Leopard's setup intro playing through the speakers, but the screen is in sleep mode. So I reboot holding down the option key so I can boot up from my old (300GB) main hard drive, now in slot #2. This works and the monitor screen does not go to sleep. However, as I am browsing on the web to check for issues concerning this monitor, the G5 freezes, and I get a screen with black bars with writing in them and various technical language across the screen. This happened several times after rebooting. Finally I shut the computer down. I am going to try removing the new hard drive and putting both old ones back in and see if the G5 stops crashing. I think the monitor issue is a separate issue, and I am more concerned with the crashing, as previous to the new hard drive installation the G5 was working fine, monitor fine, other than the issue when booting up from a CD. Do I need more memory? Is the 1TB hard drive too large for my dual-processor 2.0 G5 and overloading it? Would I be better off with a 500GB drive? Would appreciate advice from persons with experience in this area. Thank you.

I have replaced my 5 year old G5 with a Mac Pro, as the G5 just had too many issues, even after replacing all major components (logic board, both processors, video card, etc.) Once I took out the 1 TB hard drive from my old G5, it stopped having the kernel panic issue. Nonetheless I had been through a lengthy repair process previous to this issue, so I didn't care to trust an older machine any longer, especially since being told by an Apple tech that the "new" parts were really just older parts stockpiled from a central location. Could be new, could be refurbished. Apple was kind enough to credit the money we had spent on the G5 repairs towards the purchase of my Mac Pro.

Running Dual boot windows 8 and win 7 pro with xp mode installed!! I love it!!

It took over 2 days to figure out how to adjust the bios to get my win 7 pro DVD to boot and install dual boot on this GREAT MACHINE!!
Step 1: using diskmgmt.msc you have to shring the C partition. I shrunk it so I had 80GB remaining as unallocated space.
Step 2: You have to enter the machine Bios adn set the BIOS to Both and UEFI as first
Step 3: Connect your usb dvd
Step 4: Put your win 7 pro dvd in the usb dvd drive
Step 5: Reboot your machine and when it starts press F12 to get the boot menu and select the usb dvd drive then press enter
The machine restarts
Message on screen says press a key to boot from cd/dvd
Press space and it boots up the win 7 pro DVD
After files copy and load the setup screen asks to accept the agreement and where to install win 7
BE SURE TO SELECT THE 80GB location
Then follow thru the win 7 prompts to load it.
When the machine restarts you will see a dual boot screen with Windows 7 on top as first selection and Windows 8 below it as 2nd selection.
Make sure to hit enter with windows 7 selected
The win 7 installation completes.
You will see many items with drivers not installed dont fret.
You can load most of the drivers by highlighting the device in control panel/device manager and pick update driver then select BROWSE for DRIVER and be sure to put in drive D:\ which is now the windows 8 drive and hit search.
Many of the windows 8 drivers installed with no issue.
The Realtek driver was an exception .. goto to the lenovo site and pick the x100e tablet and download the LAN driver from there about (4MB). Copy it to flash drive and install it in win 7 from the .exe file. The driver for LAN will install sucessfully. The version of the driver is 7.46 something the 7.11 versions do not workl.
I have only 3 drivers that I could not find - 2 list as unknown and are related to ACPI or power management and 1 lists as USB controller but all the USB stuff works without it.
Be sure to either shutdown the system or sign out of win 8 when your done so you get the dual boot menu. If you shutdown while logged into win 8 the next time you start up it will go right to win 8 until you signout and restart.
Just to let you know an easy way to shutdown is go to the desktop and press ALT + FN + F4 and a shutdown menu comes up on the desktop.
Once win 7 pro is installed you can download the XP mode free from Microsoft and install it.
This is of course AFTER you have ACTIVATED WINDOWS 7 ONLINE with YOUR ACTIVATION KEY(you supply).
ENJOY! This is the BEST machine I ever had!

It's been many, many years since I don't do dual boot anymore. Don't find the reason to do it, either. Different kinds of virtualization should be enough. Anyway...
dfw1417 wrote:
It took over 2 days to figure out how to adjust the bios to get my win 7 pro DVD to boot and install dual boot on this GREAT MACHINE!!
ENJOY! This is the BEST machine I ever had!
WHICH machine?
Cheers.
If I helped you, please give me some kudos! ^^

X11 on a single screen in a dual monitor setup

Same problem as posed here: http://discussions.info.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=2260647&tstart=0
I was excited when I read the following:
I fiddled with Apple's X11, which I'd installed on my Desktop, to no avail. Nowhere could I disable the screen-spanning behavior. On a hunch, I decided to try out XDarwin, however, and lo and behold --- a checkbox for enabling/disabling Xinerama! In addition, XDarwin seems to be better behaved than Apple's X11 when it comes to correctly sourcing some of my $HOME/.X* configuration files (e.g., I always had to run xmodmap ~/.Xmodmap manually under X11, even after putting the command in my .xinitrc).
I only ever use Xquartz(currently XQuartz 2.6.0 (xorg-server 1.9.3)) which is Xdarwin now. But I do not see the mentioned checkbox for enabling/disabling Xinerama.
Which sounds exactly like what I want to do. I want to have my macbook air(mba) to display full screen Xquartz on external 27" Dell monitor only. On the macbook screen I want to show the OSX desktop with open applications not blacked out by X11.
Any pointers to this checkbox's location would be great. Or any other way to configure this setup would also be good.
I'm not looking for solutions that keep the laptop monitor off in any way as I have seen suggested many times. This is because I want to use it to view state of other OS X apps on the macbook screen while working in full screen X session on the external monitor.
The xnest solution sounds inferior for the same reasons pointed out by Michael C. Lee in the post I mentioned above.

Hi Andy,
I really appreciate your help!
I believe you're correct in that I wouldn't be able to start the X server and have it only produce output on one of my monitors, as they are necessarily part of a single "display" (in OS X, at least). Barring that, however, I wanted to be able to at least keep X11 from creating a single screen that spanned both my monitors (the problem with this is that it doesn't recognize the separate monitor geometries, so large chunks of the virtual spanning screen were inaccessible, and it also made dealing with X apps that are none dual-head friendly a pain). On my linux machine, I was able to get this behavior by default (i.e., separate screens named '.0 and .1' under a single X display), and could get monitor spanning only after enabling the Xinerama extension.
I fiddled with Apple's X11, which I'd installed on my Desktop, to no avail. Nowhere could I disable the screen-spanning behavior. On a hunch, I decided to try out XDarwin, however, and lo and behold --- a checkbox for enabling/disabling Xinerama! In addition, XDarwin seems to be better behaved than Apple's X11 when it comes to correctly sourcing some of my $HOME/.X* configuration files (e.g., I always had to run xmodmap ~/.Xmodmap manually under X11, even after putting the command in my .xinitrc).
Anyway, that basically gave me what I needed, so I'm a happy camper. Just thought I'd post this in the unlikely event that someone else is in the same situation. Oh, and if you're curious, the reason I needed to do this in the first place was because I wanted to run the ratpoison windows manager fullscreen --- great for dealing with ADD!

How to remove windows 7 safely from my dual boot win7/win8 pc ?

i have a pc which is dual boot with windows 7 ultimate 64 bit & windows 8 pro 64 bit, my pc had four drives C: D: E: F:, windows 7 is on "D:" drive & windows 8 is on C: drive(i had set win8 as current & default OS), now when i opened
disk management i found that the D: drive where win7 is residing is marked as
system,active,primary partition, now i don't want win7 anymore , i want only win8 on my pc, i want to format & get back clean empty D drive to use for other stuff (i don't want to delete the D drive partition), can any one explain me the steps
needed to achieve this safely.

Since you've selected as default OS as Windows 8.1 you can go to disk management console and format the drive as required.
You can remove the Win 7 entry from boot loader:
To launch msconfig:
Click Start
In the Search text box, type msconfig
Launch msconfig by selecting it from the search results above the search text box.
After msconfig is launched:
Go to the Boot tab
Slect the boot entry you want to delete.
Click the Delete button and then click OK.
Arnav Sharma | http://arnavsharma.net/ Please remember to click “Mark as Answer” on the post that helps you, and to click “Unmark as Answer” if a marked post does not actually answer your question. This can be beneficial to other community members reading
the thread.

Power Mac G5 Dual 2.5 freezes up, Power Mac G5 Dual 2.5 freezes up

Hello
I inherited a Dual 2.5 PPC Power Mac G5 from my sister. She was having problems with it suddenly freezing up. She replaced the hard drive but that didn't fix it, and sicne she had a newer Macbook Pro she gave up on it. When I got it I replaced the video card on it with an ATI Radeon, and it seemed to run fine for a while, and then the problem returned. It seemed to have returned after I did all the Apple software upgrades on it (It's running Leopard), but that might be a coincidence. I noticed under Diagnostics on the power up test that some RAM had failed. I also noticed that it was running on 1 gb of RAM even though 2 gb were installed. I removed the faulty Ram (4 256 mb dimms) and hoped that that was the problem. Unfortunately it wasn't. I also installed a temperture reading program. It showed that CPU A is running around 80 C at times and is usually about 10C hotter than CPU B. I'm not sure though if 80C is normal for a G5 or not. I noticed that when it was unplugged that it wouldn't retain the time and date, and took a look at the battery, and sure enough it was starting to leak (but hadn't leaked on to any components). I've ordered a new bttery for it.
I ran a check with Disk Utility and found the HD was ok, but permissions were a bit messed up. Disk Utility wasn't able to fix some of the permissions, but i don't think this is the underlying problem.
I've also opened it and gave everything a thourough vacuuming and cleaning and reseated any removable parts. I took the cover off the liquid cooling unit and vacuumed out the dust. There didn;t seem to be any coolant leaks I could see.
Any suggestions on where I should go from here? I unfortuantely don't have any of the disks for it, so I can't run the AHT until I find one for it (the one for my Macbook Pro wouldn't work).
Sometimes it just freezes. Other times it freezes and the computer fans go on high. It will finally get to a point where it shows the grey multi-language restart screen (where it says to hold down the button to shut it off and the restart).
It was frustrating because on my workbench it was running fine after I switched the video card, and it didn't freeze at all. When I moved it to our computer desk though, the problems returned. Tonight it was to the point where it didn't last 5 minutes.
My thoughts are:
1. Maybe All the RAM is bad
2. Maybe the dead battery is messing it up?
3. When it is heating up with use, something is expanding and not connecting any longer.
What are your thoughts?

Hi Curtis,
I'm not sure though if 80C is normal for a G5 or not. I noticed that when it was unplugged that it wouldn't retain the time
Nope, not normal, way too hot, above 70°C... If you have any temps in the 70°C/160°F range, that's likely it.
Have you blown the dust out of everything with high pressure air?\
1. Maybe All the RAM is bad
The Memory test can really only be trusted if it finds a problem, not if it doesn't find a problem.
Memtest OS X...
http://www.memtestosx.org/joomla/index.php
Rember is a freeware GUI for the memtest ...
http://tech.kateva.org/2005/10/rember-freeware-memory-test-utility.html
If you're sure the RAM is good, try the Hair Dryer trick...
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=13240047#13240047
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15223603#15223603
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15499912#15499912
https://discussions.apple.com/message/15613068#15613068
It can show on any G5, and even many other computers & electronic devices of the period.
http://www.macintouch.com/reliability/pmg5.html
http://lowendmac.com/ppc/power-macintosh-g5.html
2. Maybe the dead battery is messing it up?
Might be time to replace the PRAM Battery, 4 years is close to their lifespan, far less if ever without AC power, & can cause strange startup problems, thoigh not once vooted as a rule...
See which one your G5 has...
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/CR2032/
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/BAA36VPRAM/
3. When it is heating up with use, something is expanding and not connecting any longer.
Could be the lead free solder issue with the RAM slot, and/or the thermal paste between CPUs & heatsinks need replacing...
https://discussions.apple.com/message/16223700#16223700

I don't have a dual-layer drive, can I install Tiger or Leopard?

Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
Mac OS X 10.4 Tiger, and Mac OS X 10.5 Leopard come on what appear to be larger than 4.7 GB discs. This does not mean you need a dual layer drive to install them. Some Macs capable of installing Tiger or Leopard came with a built-in CD-RW, or CD-ROM drive. For those a compatible Firewire DVD drive for booting Mac OS X can work instead of replacing the internal drive. Tiger also came in a limited edition Media Exchange Program CD installer package, which you may be able to find in the open market. The limitation for each is dependant on other hardware:
1. If your Mac shipped new with no Firewire, you may be able to install Tiger a special third party addon software known as XPostFacto.
2. If your Mac shipped new with less than 867 Mhz built-in processor (including dual processor 800 MHz or less), you may be able to install Leopard with a special third party addon software known as Leopard Assist.
3. If your Mac shipped with a processor upgrade card installed, and #2 is true, a firmware update may be available from the processor upgrade card vendor that allows Leopard's installation.
4. Tiger needs at least 256 MB of RAM.
Leopard needs at least 512 MB of RAM.
If you have a lot of dashboard widgets, you may need to increase RAM to improve performance on either operating system. The RAM needs to follow Apple's specs to ensure smooth operation. Only get RAM with a lifetime warranty.
5. Officially you need for Tiger:
"At least 3 GB of free disk space; 4 GB if you install the XCode 2 Developer Tools" from: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1514
And officially for Leopard you need:
"9 GB of available disk space or more" from http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3759
However, I would add to that if your hard drive doesn't have at least 15% of the drive free in addition to that, you may experience significant slowing down in the operating system function. This number has been arbitrarily discovered by many users.
6. When installing Tiger or Leopard, if your machine shipped with Panther (10.3) or earlier, be sure to get the retail Tiger or retail Leopard.
The Tiger installer is a san serif gray and white X with a spotlight on the center of the X on a black background.
The Leopard installer is a san serif black and gray X on a pink galaxy centered on a black background.
This is the 1st version of this tip. It was submitted on Dec 23, 2009 by a brody.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information.

Disclaimer: Apple does not necessarily endorse any suggestions, solutions, or third-party software products that may be mentioned in the topic below. Apple encourages you to first seek a solution at Apple Support. The following links are provided as is, with no guarantee of the effectiveness or reliability of the information. Apple does not guarantee that these links will be maintained or functional at any given time. Use the information below at your own discretion.
Mac OS X 10.4 Tiger, and Mac OS X 10.5 Leopard come on what appear to be larger than 4.7 GB discs. This does not mean you need a dual layer drive to install them. Some Macs capable of installing Tiger or Leopard came with a built-in CD-RW, or CD-ROM drive. For those a compatible Firewire DVD drive for booting Mac OS X can work instead of replacing the internal drive. Tiger also came in a limited edition Media Exchange Program CD installer package, which you may be able to find in the open market. The limitation for each is dependant on other hardware:
1. If your Mac shipped new with no Firewire, you may be able to install Tiger a special third party addon software known as XPostFacto.
2. If your Mac shipped new with less than 867 Mhz built-in processor (including dual processor 800 MHz or less), you may be able to install Leopard with a special third party addon software known as Leopard Assist.
3. If your Mac shipped with a processor upgrade card installed, and #2 is true, a firmware update may be available from the processor upgrade card vendor that allows Leopard's installation.
4. Tiger needs at least 256 MB of RAM.
Leopard needs at least 512 MB of RAM.
If you have a lot of dashboard widgets, you may need to increase RAM to improve performance on either operating system. The RAM needs to follow Apple's specs to ensure smooth operation. Only get RAM with a lifetime warranty.
5. Officially you need for Tiger:
"At least 3 GB of free disk space; 4 GB if you install the XCode 2 Developer Tools" from: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1514
And officially for Leopard you need:
"9 GB of available disk space or more" from http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3759
However, I would add to that if your hard drive doesn't have at least 15% of the drive free in addition to that, you may experience significant slowing down in the operating system function. This number has been arbitrarily discovered by many users.
6. When installing Tiger or Leopard, if your machine shipped with Panther (10.3) or earlier, be sure to get the retail Tiger or retail Leopard.
The Tiger installer is a san serif gray and white X with a spotlight on the center of the X on a black background.
The Leopard installer is a san serif black and gray X on a pink galaxy centered on a black background.
This is the 1st version of this tip. It was submitted on Dec 23, 2009 by a brody.
Do you want to provide feedback on this User Contributed Tip or contribute your own? If you have achieved Level 2 status, visit the User Tips Library Contributions forum for more information.

Time Capsule disk access SLOW! 2TB - Dual band

I have a Time Capsule (2TB, Dual Band, Firmare at 7.4.2)
Its been working like a dream, backing up 3 Macs for the last 8 months.
I also use it for connecting two or three other disks via USB and then making those accessible over the LAN, and there is also about 100GB of data on the Time capsule disk itself that i use as a dump for files so i can get to them from anywhere on my LAN.
Lately I started to notice EXTREMELY slow disk access, even when i am connected via ethernet (1000 base) - and equally when I am connected via wifi (n)
for example, copying over a 2Mb photo can take minutes when it should take seconds.
i've been trying to figure out whats going on here for a while and so i checked out the sizes of the backup files.. the sparseimages that time machine creates.
one of them was nearly 1TB, while another was around 500GB and the other was around 120GB
that plus my data meant there was only about 300GB free on the 2TB disk.
I have a feeling the slowness could be down to extreme fragmentation of the drive... ??
so i decided to dump the backup files and copy off my other data and do a erase of the disk and start again.. but get this.. i can't even delete the 1TB file ! I have been trying for about 3 days now and it just will not delete.. i get the Deleting msg box and it just sits there, literally ALL night...
i know it isn't just hanging on the Mac (10.6.4) because deleting the other two images also took a long time (but not this long!)
i can't just wipe the disk now because i can't get my other data off either.. I have tried copying it over the network and onto a USB disk connected directly to the Time Capsule, but 3 days later and i'm still copying files..
to put some context into this, I copied over 1.8Gb today and it took about 4 hours...
has anyone had this problem before?? what on earth is going on?? is it down to fragmentation, or something else?? the TC has been working fine up until a few weeks ago when i started to notice slow speed.
any ideas ?
thanks
Adam

if anyone ever has this issue ....
it must have been EXTREME fragmentation. I bought another 2TB external disk, connected it to the TC, did a complete archive, which took around 24 hours... then i wiped the TC and put stuff back... it now works fine again...

Dual boot win7 & 8 on t430

Newbie here needing some help. Just got my t430 fresh out of the box and I want to dual boot win 7 and 8. The installed system was 7, but came with windows 8 recovery disks in the box. I thought dual boot would be pretty straightforward, but I haven't been able to get it going. Any advice?

Hey there giovanni8807, welcome to the forums!
I found some perhaps helpful starting information for you to look over that will help guide you into the process. It is important to note, that you check to see what drivers and utilities are available for your machine for Windows 8. This will give you an idea of what is and what might not be available to function completely in that particular OS environment. Of course, take advantage of the Lenovo Solution Center for driver and utility updates for your machine once getting into Windows 8.
Drivers for the T430
How to Dual Boot Via PC world
How To Dual Boot Via CNet (I personally found this one to be a tad bit more clear.)
Good Luck, and keep us posted on your progress.
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Convert PXIe-8135 controller to dual-boot Windows 7 and LabVIEW RT

Hello. I have a PXIe-8135 controller that originally was just running Windows 7. We are trying to convert it to a dual boot system to also run LabView Real Time. (There is host computer that will run LabVIEW 2014 with the RT module, and the controller will become a target).
I have created a FAT32 partition on the hard drive of the controller. Now, I’m trying to install the real-time OS with a USB flash drive made using the MAX utility, but I cannot boot using the USB drive for some reason. I keep getting the message “waiting for USB device to initialize”.
In BIOS, legacy USB support is [ENABLED] and boot configuration is set to [Windows/other OS]. I’ve tried removing the drive, waiting, and reinserting. I’ve tried two different USB drives (both 8 GB, different brands).
I’m not sure what to do next. Apart from the USB boot issue, is converting the PXIe-8135 even possible? I read about SATA/PATA hard drive issues with older controllers, but I don't know about this one.
Thanks, in advance, for your help!
-Jeff
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Per Siana's licensing comment, more information on purchasing a deployment license if you do not have one for this target can be found here.
The RT Utility USB key is used to set up non-NI hardware with LabVIEW Real-Time, but you should not need it in this situation to convert to dual-boot (*). Try this:
1. Since you already have a FAT32 partion created, go into BIOS setup and change to booting 'LabVIEW RT'.
2. The system will attempt to boot LabVIEW RT, see that the partition is empty, and switch over into LabVIEW RT Safe Mode. (this safemode is built into the firmware, which is why you don't really need the USB key).
3. The system should come up correctly and be detectable from MAX, and you can proceed with installing software.
4. To switch back to Windows, go back to BIOS setup and choose 'Windows/Other OS'
(*) One area where the USB key is helpful on a dual boot system is with formatting the disk. If you want to convert from FAT32 to Reliance on the partition designated for LabVIEW RT, the USB key lets you attempt to format a single parition and leave the rest of the disk untouched. If you format from MAX, the standard behavior is to format only one RT partition if found, but if not found, it will format the entire disk. Formatting from MAX on a dual boot system is consequently riskier and you could lose your Windows partition.

Dual boot windows mac mini

I got a Mac mini and in general I'm happy with it but found out that there's some software I use regularly that is just much better on Windows. They barely support OS X although technically they do. So I would like to dual boot Windows as it seems like this is supported and not crazy.
I followed the bootcamp and some guides I found via Google. I have the mac mini 2014 with 8 gig ram and 1 terabyte of space. I have dual monitors setup and a logitech mouse and a logitech gaming keyboard G110 - both USB. (I also own a wireless apple keyboard which I occasionally use with my iPad). My first problem was a DOS screen telling me I can't boot up on the specified disk but I did get some help off Google telling me to hold down option while booting (this should be in the guides ;p) but it was easy to fix.. however I'm stumped on what's happening now.
When I click the Windows partition, it starts booting up Windows 7 Premium 64 bit setup and all looks good. Then a screen pops up asking me what language/region I am. The default is United states (perfect). On this screen my keyboard and mouse are useless. Or it's frozen. I think the former. I think the computer just can't recognize them. And I cannot figure out a way around this. If anyone can - please help I will be very thankful.
I've tried booting up using the Windows 7 DVD I own and an ISO installed on a USB flash drive per the Bootcamp installer. Results are the same.

Use Boot Camp!! Sounds like you have the install disc. Make sure you completely erase a USB 2.0 Thumb Drive format it as one MS DOS Master Boot Record partition. Download Drivers to it. I checked this box in boot camp only.
Having install disc and driver thumb drive ready. Insert Windows install disc and plug in Thumb drive.
Open Boot Camp uncheck first 2 boxes. Continue
Size the BOOTCAMP partion you want it to be by sliding the bar. Or split your HD is an option.
After that is complete. You will be asked where to install. Select BOOTCAMP partition
Click Drive Options (advanced). Click Format. Click OK. All goes well you click Next and it will format as NTFS
Follow instructions to to install, set up and configure Windows.
GO TO APPLE SUPPORT no where else. PRINT BOOT CAMP Installation & Setup Guide. It is in my binder with my Windows 7 Professional Disc. You'll need this, I'm afraid, to have on hand. When Windows is up and going, Antivirus 1st, Install Windows express updates only. Do not update Apple drivers for Windows. Running Windows 7 Pro on my Mac Mini since I bought it in August. Use it for those outdated programs I can't run on Mac or Windows 8. Love it.
GET THE MANUAL Please. Have fun with it.
Oh, try left clicking your USB Mouse to make it work. If not use keyboard strokes. i.e. I a ccept the license agreement (note that the a is underlined. hit "a" on the keyboard to check box.

Dual 20s on a PC

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