Dual Boot Snow Leopard and Leopard

Hi All
i am looking to Dual boot my Intel iMac with Leopard (10.5.8) + Snow Leopard (10.6) for testing purposes.
How do i go about doing this?
I have the Leopard install disc
i do not have Snow leopard yet and the only version i have seen is an update disc you can buy from apple for about £25 is this ok to use or will i need a copy of the full version?
if i need a copy of the full version where can i find it?
my current hdd setup is:
1 partician very large for data about 255GB
+ another 40GB Partician with Mac OS X
I assume i will need to create another partician about 20GB and call it Snow leopard and use the leopard disc to install onto the new partician then upgrade the newly installed leopard partician with the new snow leopard disc??
Thanks in advance
Regards Sam

Apple has managed to fool a lot of folks with their pricing. If you paid the US$129.00 to upgrade your Mac from Tiger to Leopard, then you qualify for the US$29.00 upgrade from Leo to Snow Leopard. If you did not upgrade from Tiger to Leo, you should buy the US$179.00 box set, which includes Snow Leo, iLife '09 & iWork.
All of this is based on honesty and ethics. The Leo disks are the same. The Leo disk in the upgrade does not look for evidence of Leo, at least not to install. You can erase and install with the Leo disk, or install on a virgin HDD that has never seen Mac OS X.
We create dualboot systems when we seed test Mac OS X all the time. SuperDuper will make Sandbox partition and install just Mac OS X and Apple apps. It leaves 3rd party apps, your data and user accounts and settings on your main Mac OS X installation. Then we lay the new version of Mac OS X over the Sandbox and boot into it. So we have the current Gold Master of Mac OS X and the new version that we are testing, and we can boot into either and they both share our data and accounts.
That may be more tricky when you are using different versions of Mac OS X, as opposed to different updates of the same version. For example, Leo and Snow Leo have different versions of many Mac apps. I do not know how they might handle your stored data if they handled the creation of music or photo libraries differently.
Dah•veed

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    Your best bet would be to use something like rEFInd. It has a "scanfor" option that should automatically detect your BIOS-configured Windows installation and add a boot option for it. Note that depending on your motherboard, you may have to switch to UEFI-only mode and Windows will be unbootable without the assistance of a UEFI program which is backwards compatible with BIOS (like rEFInd).
    Thank you for the link.  Considering I can't get into my install and the actual install only took about 30 minutes,  I think I am going to just start from the beginning again with REFIndr.  It seems much simpler.  I only used Grub because I've used it before with Ubuntu, but my very limited knowledge is telling me Grub is probably the problem.
    MoonSwan wrote:Just an idea:  My bios has a "Boot-up Prompt" which I can invoke when it's POSTing by hitting F11.  This brings me to a menu that allows me to choose which drive I want to boot up that day.  I use it when Syslinux isn't working properly (Which is right now as a matter of fact ...) in order to boot Windows so I can do some SCII, for example.  I, too, dual-boot but I have both OSes on different SSDs.  So my 120GB Crucial SSD has Arch on it and the 240GB Kingston has Windows, SCII, Portable Apps, etc and nary the two shall meet.  It makes dual-booting easier in the case of a corrupt OS or MBR or what-have-you.  You may want to give your Bios a better look to see if you can do the F11 trick.  It probably can and will usually tell you so at POST by printing that information on-screen along with your drives-detected and other messages (I hit Pause sometimes to read all the POST messages).
    This is exactly what I was talking about doing when I mentioned:
    My thinking is that even if it isn't, I should still be able to enter the BIOS boot menu and select which drive to boot manually correct?
    That's good to know, because even if this next install doesn't work I think if I pull the other drives I should be able to get it working fairly easily.
    Thanks again everyone.

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