Dual G5 with 1 CPU failure

hi, has anyone had this happen to them? I've got a Dual G5 2.5GHz machine which now appears to only have 1 CPU. confirmed this in System Profiler, but for the past two years I had 2 working CPUs. does anyone think I have something going on other than a real hardware failure. btw, I ran Hardware Test from the CD and all tests passed.

Do you have CHUD tools installed? It use to be that you could do a stand-alone download, but lately, with 4.4, no longer available. With it you can disable one processor. There is also an Open Firmware command that will disable a cpu that retains that setting through restarts.
Clearing the "cpus" Setting
The cpus setting is set in NVRAM and will affect all system restarts until the setting is changed or cleared. Use the instructions above to set "cpus" to a different value. To clear the cpus setting, there are three options.
1. Use the Terminal application to clear the boot-args configuration variable. For example, you could enter the following command within the Terminal application:
% sudo nvram boot-args=""
This command sequence clears the value of boot-args.
2. You can clear boot-args by "zapping PRAM."
Restart the system and hold down the "Command-Option-P-R" keys until you hear the boot beep a second time. Release the keys and the system will restart normally with all CPUs recognized. Keep in mind that this also will clear all other custom NVRAM settings.
3. Finally, you can clear the "cpus" setting by running System Preferences and clicking Startup Disk.
Then switch the startup disk to a different volume. This clears all contents of the boot-args configuration variable and is similar to using the Terminal application to clear this setting.
http://developer.apple.com/qa/qa2001/qa1141.html#Clearcpus
Mac Pro 2GHz 4GB 10K Raptor 23" Cinema   Mac OS X (10.4.9)   WD RE RAID Aaxeon FW800 PCIe MDD-G4 APC RS1500 Vista

Similar Messages

  • G5 Dual 2.5 CPU Power PC will not boot unless I remove the Plastic Sheild.

    G5 Dual 2.5 CPU with 4 gb of memory will boot everytime if I take the plastic sheild out. I bought it from a guy who would turn it on then let it sit until the fans revved up after about 5 to ten minutes. I figured out that it would boot everytime if I removed the plastic sheild. Now I am trying to find a permanent fix for this issue.
    Thanks for any assistance anyone can give.

    I don't think its just a plastic shield and door - there is a contact switch that signals when these are removed and the fans rev up to a higher speed. My guess is its the higher speed of the fans that's keeping things cool during the power surge of the boot stage thats allowing it to startup.
    When the doors are on and the fans are kept low there must be some hardware failure that is occurring during boot up - that seems to be prevented when speeding the fans up. And after the initial boot up power surge, things run cool enough that I can safely put the plastic shield and door back on and the computer keeps running fine (it ran OK all night).
    I can think of no other logical explanation at this time.
    Any other ideas?
    What puzzles me, is I use this computer to do some heavy 3D graphic renders and have run it intensely for days at at time with absolutely no sign of failure during operation once its booted up. I've never had a freeze or anything like that. So when its so reliable during operation, why so fragile during boot up?

  • MDD dual 1.25 CPU DEAD- WHICH MOTHERBOARDS had COMPATIBLE CPU's?

    I've just finished (after much help from Japamac, Grant Bennet and others) diagnosing what's wrong with my MDD.
    *FRIED CPU.*
    My Logic board is marked 820-1476-A. I found a good used dual 1.25 CPU pulled from a MDD motherboard that's labelled (the motherboard is labelled) 820-1472-A.
    ANYONE know if the motherboards are compatible, i.e. if a cpu pulled from that motherboard will run on my motherboard?
    If noone knows, any ideas where I could find that info?
    From my research so far, some MDD motherboards with nearly similar numbers CAN interchange CPU's, others cannot.
    ANY help appreciated, especially now that I've got the issue isolated.
    Tom

    mddthing wrote:
    Have you isolated why the processors fried in the first place?
    If its heat I would advise the dual 1.42GHz heatsink and using arctic silver paste...
    Ah yes... the question of the millennium. What caused the first snowflake to fall...
    The fans are all fine.
    Here's the sequence of events:
    I was experiencing a series of system corruptions & freezes forcing me to do hard shutdowns when this happened.
    The only way to shut down a GUI freeze that I know of is to hard shut down (not good).
    The day the full cascade happened, I'd just finished my *8th or 9th hard shutdown.*
    I was trying to reboot from another partition on another disk that wasn't corrupted & repair the startup volume.
    +*That's when I got a steady pitched tone upon restart. I had no idea what it meant.*+
    +*After two more freezes the computer wouldn't startup at all.*+
    My insurance would pay only IF I took it to a tech center, and they said "bad power supply, get another computer. It's not worth it."
    I did end up get a used G5 but began to attempt a repair... I NEED a MDD for my music interface cards, circa 2000, which after my G5 purchase discovered that none of the cards work. That's my entire music interface; A MOTU 1208 with a 5 volt PCI card required to use it, and and "ADAT edit" card (same era).
    The new G4 PSU (and a new power switch) got something happening, but I discovered that one of 2 seagate drives in the "front" cage was dead (only 1 year old).
    Long story short, seagate sent me a new drive and, in researching the problem, I learned (*from seagate*) that their PATA barracuda drives run *really really hot.* I had TWO in the front cage, and two "pre-seagate" maxtor drives in the rear "wall cage".
    *My estimation is that it WAS a heat problem, in one way or another that caused everything.*
    I do music and drive the system pretty hard. There was thermal compound on the processors, but I wasn't the original owner, so I also have no idea if it was applied sufficiently, or how the computer was treated before I got it.
    My concern is that the motherboard may have taken a hit as well, since when I first examined the CPU I didn't see the "black dot" I saw after attempting a startup with the new PSU. It *did start once, ran for 5 minutes and that's when I think the CPU shorted.*
    Although (with the new PSU), even after that, all the fans run and the red light comes on, just no startup chime. Other than that I have no test equipment. Also running out of money.
    I'm probably going to try and get a new processor I saw ($114), use only ONE drive in the front cage, get some ice goop, and hope the motherboard survived. Simply can't swing $250 for a used MDD, so I'm trying the processor swap... first.
    I'm also going to find a way to install another small fan in the front cage blowing directly at the heat sink, and cross my fingers... *if I get that far*.
    The fans always cycled up and down when needed, so the system WAS recognizing heat conditions.
    I'm also thinking of drilling open the "cheese grater fake-holes" and setting the tower up off the floor for better air flow in general.
    The heat sinks all seem to have totally different attachment methods.
    Mine has 5 screws and uses a Rube Goldberg wiggy looking flange on the front.
    +*I didn't know you could swap for the "copper tube" heat sink. I assumed the the 1.47 motherboard had different attachment points.*+
    +*This is news to me. CAN I?*+
    My sense is that something in the original "cascade failure" caused one of the 2 processors to fail. But I'm just guessing. Can't be sure until I replace it.
    +*...God I love being broke...*+

  • HP Touchsmart tx2 1015au CPU failure

    My computer is flashing once followed by a pause and then continues with this pattern.  I understand this means CPU failure.  This is the second time this has happened.  I managed to get it fixed last time as it was under warranty. Unfortunately this time i have missed the warranty timeframe by a month.  I would like to replace the cpu myself but I'm not sure what part (brand, product number etc) to get.
    Can anyone help?
    also if you know of a good youtube video that shows how to replace it that would be great.
    I will be buying a new laptop but would  like to get the data off this one.  If there is another way to get it ( put the hard drive into another computer? - not sure if this is what stores all the data and if this is possible) any suggestions would be appreciated.
    Thanks

    You don't need to replace the CPU if all you want is to get your data. You can remove the harddrive and get a SATA connection and access the harddrive as you would an external harddrive (via USB)

  • Dual Booting with Windows 8 and 7 Pro in a G6 - 2235us Notebook

    I have a G6 - 2235us Notebook 64 bit  that came with Windows 8.0  installed.
    I would like to install Windows 7 Pro and make it dual book with Windows 8.0 with 7 as the default to start.
    Would you please give me steps as to how to proceed and also the drivers, etc I would need to download.
    Thank you.
    This question was solved.
    View Solution.

    Thank you Paul. I understad  I just have one more question:
    I found this page that gives info about dual booting:
    http://www.pagestart.com/win8dbwin701181301.html
    From your expertise, would you say the steps suggested on that
    page could succeed for making Win 8 and 7 dual boot in this particular machine?

  • HELP! How can i restore/recover files from Bootcamp with Boot Failure - Missing operating system error?

    Hi,
    I am having a few problems with bootcamp on my imac. When i tried to move the bootcamp partition on windows 7 into free space, it crashed and turned off. Ever since i have had the error 'Missing operating system' and it fails to boot. I have some very important files on the bootcamp partition. Is it possible to recover these files or even to restore the bootcamp partition to it's original state? I do not have a backup of my bootcamp partition. Another problem i have is that ever since i tried to expand my macintosh HD partition into free space, when i hold alt while booting up (to choose which partition to boot like i normally do), the bootcamp partition has stopped appearing. This means that i cannot even boot the windows 7 bootcamp partition anymore!
    So basically here are my 2 questions:
    How can i restore/recover files from Bootcamp with Boot Failure - Missing operating system error?
    How can i make the Bootcamp partition appear in Startup Disk and when i hold the option key while starting up my computer to allow me to boot windows 7?
    Any solutions are very much apreciated!
    Thanks!
    I know that bootcamp (disk0s4) hasn't been fully deleted since it appears in disk utility (i cant do anything to it though)
    And here is the error i see when i try to launch bootcamp (back when i was actually able to boot up bootcamp to the error screen)

    WinClone 3 is OS X and saves Windows image it makes for restore - that should work but you will have to try and you would need to make a new image unless it also works with a native Windows system restore image. It is now supported and has come a long way.
    http://www.twocanoes.com/
    Paragon Clone OS works and does disk-to-disk clone just like CCC you end up with two bootable drives. But does not work with your setup. It would let you clone and move your Windows install to an SSD or another disk drive though and be bootable.
    During its clone process it checks for errors which is very helpful and lets you know - something CCC and others should adopt more of.
    http://www.paragon-software.com/downloads/demo.html
    I wish for our/my sake you had re-read and rewritten the long 'story' and broken it into a brief list of facts we needed.
    OS X
    Windows
    Backup (though external is much safer) and you want bootable OS X clones as well as TimeMachine
    https://support.apple.com/kb/HT1427
    https://support.apple.com/kb/HT1553
    There are a number of things to do like chkdsk and others as well as Windows DVD to do automatic system repairs and find out why.
    AppleHFS - the abilty to mount and read HFS volumes can be notorious.
    I would rearrange and redo your storage setup and how you use the 4-5 internal hard drive bays.

  • Arch does not show up in Grub when dual booting with windows 8

    I just installed Arch linux, dual booting with windows 8 using the beginners guide[https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/Beginners'_Guide] itself. Now Grub is installed and i can only find Windows 8 and I cannot find Arch. Is there a way I can find if arch linux has been installed and show up in Grub.
    Sorry, I am a newbie, but i chose to post this topic here and not newbie corner as it is installation related.
    My windows 8 is installed on /dev/sda1 with ntfs partition type. Arch Linux is installed on /dev/sda6 and it is ext4 partition. I dont know if this info helps.  I am using Thinkpad R61
    Last edited by sutro_droid (2013-03-06 00:30:48)

    ivokosir wrote:It may be that you didn't install os-prober before running grub-mkconfig. This happened to me once, I hope I'm not too late to warn you.
    I am sorry, yes you are too late. I have wiped windows 8 and performed clean install. No regrets. And as a matter of fact, I did grub-config and then installed os-prober. That could be the problem. Thanks. I will try this again another time.

  • [SOLVED] RTC and dual booting with Windows 8/8.1

    I am planning ahead of installing Arch on a windows 8.1 laptop, and need to understand whether or not the known Windows registry hack to get windows to use UTC for the RTC is still valid for Windows 8/8.1?  I have been searching via google and the usual sources of information, but it is not clear to me if there are problems doing this, specifically if arch is dual booted with Windows 8/8.1 rather than older versions of the MS OS. Certainly I have used the technique without any problem in the past when dual booting Windows XP with Arch on several different machines.
    Does anyone have personal experience with doing this on a Windows 8 or 8.1 machine and can report here on whether it works successfully or not?
    Thanks for any advice.
    Last edited by mcloaked (2014-02-11 21:16:21)

    Since there were no replies at this point I thought I would just go ahead and implement the registry hack on the Windows 8.1 O/S in the laptop and see if Windows behaves.  It appears to be OK, with the displayed time being correct after reboot, and time synchronisation remaining fine with no problems seen in the displayed time, although I won't be able to read the RTC directly until I have completed the Arch install in the coming week or two.  I now don't foresee any issues with the time synchronisation between booting Arch and Windows 8.1 so I will mark this as solved.
    Since the RTC is now in UTC then normal clock config in Arch using chrony should perform normally once the install is done and the new system set up.
    Last edited by mcloaked (2014-02-11 21:17:11)

  • Dual boot with Ubuntu 13.0 using bootable USB problem (Y410P)

    Hi I recently bought Lenovo Y410P and have been since trying for hours to dual boot with Ubuntu but I was unsuccessful.
    I formatted by USB drive in FAT format, and created a bootable usb using Pendrive. Then I changed the Boot Mode to Legacy Support and the boot order so it boots from the flash storage first.
    Then it hung on a purple screen like this: http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/3509/dgfdgrunningoraclevmvir.png
    and the keyboard doesn't work and I couldn't go any further from here.
    So I tried to use a different program called Unetbootin, and the problem got worse and it just stopped working at the option screen where you select whether to just try Ubuntu or install it, etc.
    I read it somewhere the recent version of Unetbootin doesn't work, so I got the 474 version of it, and finally I was able to select from the option menu and it didn't hang. However when I clicked on Install Ubuntu, it just stopped there for a while, and then the boot failed and moved onto Windows 8 again.
    I looked at the USB drive, and I realized the folder and some config files are names isolinux instead of syslinux, so I changed them, and now I'm getting the "SYSLINUX 3.86 2010..." words on the black screen and it hangs there.
    I saw a similar message before using Pendrive and it was like "SYSLINUX 4.10 2012...". That was because the flash drive wasn't formatted in FAT (it was FAT32). So I re-checked the drive, but it is indeed formatted in FAT so I'm not sure why now I'm getting a similar message.
    It will be much appreciated if you could give me some suggestions as to how to solve this problem.
    Thanks

    Something else you could try.  Not sure it will make any difference.
    Skip the boot creation tools and just boot the thing in UEFI mode.
    Use the latest (12.10 or later will work, IIRC) 64-bit Ubuntu ISO.  Format your flash drive as a single FAT32 partition.  Extract the contents of the ISO to the flash drive.  Use 7zip for Windows, or your favorite Linux de-archiving tool.  That's it.  
    [edit] I don't believe the partition needs to be set active, but haven't tested that.
    Set BIOS boot mode to UEFI.  Even secure boot mode should work withe a new enough Ubuntu - but isn't necessary.
    Give that a try.  If it still barfs at the same place, mess around with the start-up graphics options.
    Z.
    The large print: please read the Community Participation Rules before posting. Include as much information as possible: model, machine type, operating system, and a descriptive subject line. Do not include personal information: serial number, telephone number, email address, etc.  The fine print: I do not work for, nor do I speak for Lenovo. Unsolicited private messages will be ignored. ... GeezBlog
    English Community   Deutsche Community   Comunidad en Español   Русскоязычное Сообщество

  • Help - How to install Win XP in dual boot with Win 7 (first installed)?

    Hi everybody!
    I'm having some difficult in install a win xp in dual boot with win 7 (which came with the G550 notebook).
    I modified the D: (Lenovo) partition to a primary partition to install the XP.  Also I installed the EasyBCD to manange the boots and both S.O. load fine. 
    The problem is that Win XP is seeing a partition (the first partition on disk) with 200MB that is hidden for Win 7 !   So this partition takes the C: letter in XP and mess all the configuration once that many programs uses the C: as a default letter. 
    The disk is divided in (aprox):
    200 MB hidden partition (from factory)
    160GB with Win 7 installed
    40GB with Win XP installed
    19GB hidden partition (Recovery - from factory)
    Is anyone has some idea who to solve this problem or make install XP from the beginning without problems?
    Thank a lot! 

    jay4baps wrote:
    Are you sure VMWare Fusion 6 is Launched???  give me link then i download it...
    It's version 3.1

  • Which is better? 2.5ghz dual i5 with 16g ram or 2.3 quad i7 with 8g ram?

    Which is better? 2.5ghz dual i5 with 16g ram or 2.3 quad i7 with 8g ram?

    You are welcome!
    If is best to buy from a reputable supplier that actually test RAM in Mac's and guarantee there upgrade kits.
    The two most recommended here are OWC and Crucial

  • IPhoto 6 - STILL freezing on a Dual G5 with 370 images

    What is it with iPhoto?! I've paid for another upgrade after promises of finally sorting out the sluggishness. Yet, with a library of only 370 images, each not bigger than 2MB, I can STILL only scroll through half of the thumbnails before the beachball comes in. I wait. I wait some more. Then I force quit.
    Could there be a problem with my images which is causing this? Most of the images were imported from elsewhere on my machine, rather than a camera (can't imagine how this would have any impact on performance).
    How is iPhoto supposed to cope with 250,000 images?! I have a Dual 2G with 2.5GB of RAM.

    Do you have DiskWarrior? If so I'd boot into it's CD and rebuild the directory files. Then boot into the Single User Mode and run the file system check - fsck as follows:
    FSCK - File System Check
    To start up in single-user mode
    1. Restart the computer.
    2. Immediately after the startup sound, press and hold both the Command (Apple) and "s" keys on your keyboard. The computer will display a series of text messages, at which time you may release these keys.
    When the computer has started up, it will display a command line prompt (#). The computer is now in single-user mode.
    How to Run the File System Check from the Command Line
    Once you have reached a command line, follow these steps to use fsck:
    1. At the prompt, type: fsck -fy (NOTE, there is a space between the k and the “-”)
    The fsck utility will go through five "phases" and then return information about the disk's utilization and fragmentation. Once the check is finished, if no issue is found, you should see "** The volume <name of volume> appears to be OK."
    If fsck alters, repairs, or fixes anything, it will display the message:
    **** FILE SYSTEM WAS MODIFIED ***
    IMPORTANT: If this message appears, repeat the "fsck -fy" command until this message no longer appears. It is not unusual for your computer to require several "passes" of fsck, because first-pass repairs may uncover additional errors. Run it until you get two consecutive times with an "OK" result.
    3. When fsck reports that no problems were found, type: reboot
    4. Press Return.
    Also run OnyX to clear all of the user caches and run the Maintenance scripts.
    See if that will help.
    Since you're using iPhoto for clients may I suggest the following:
    Create a new library for each client. That should keep it fairly small and allow you to burn the iPhoto Library folder via the Finder to a single disk, CD or DVD. Then is a client comes back at a later date and wants another book, all you got to do is copy that folder from the disk to your HD, open it with iPhoto and order another book. OR, just create a separate library for each book and save those libraries to CDs, again via the Finder.
    Also, before completing the order for a book find and copy the pdf file that iPhoto creates for uploading and printing. You can use this for proofing before completing the order and as a record of the book for future reference. (There's a way you might be able to use that file to order a duplicate book at a later date even with totally different library but that's another thread).
    Hope this has been of some help.

  • I just bought Mac Book pro; trying to hook up dual monitor with Samsung syncmaster 2033 but no signal; I am using dvi to hdmi converter. Please assist.

    I just purchased a Macbook Pro but unable to set up dual display with samsung syncmaster 2033 via DVI to HDMI port.
    Thank you in advance for help.

    There has been quite a lot of discussion here about driving twin displays with the mini, and more recently about the potential for USB video adapters to facilitate this, particularly in the light of several vendors claiming they have suitable MacOS devices and drivers 'almost ready'.
    The DisplayLink solution seems to be the one most suggested as viable, though it's a pity they have not yet been able to move their drivers from beta - I suspect that puts a few people off. It's therefore good to hear of a real-world experience that should help others decide whether or not to go this route!

  • Alittle help with dual-setup with ati radeon 5770

    Hello everyone, I have been trying to setup a dual display with 2 flat panel monitors.
    1. A WestingHouse Digital Electronics "17"
    2. A Goldstar Company Ltd "23" (Main Display)
    Im currently running the gnome desktop, what im trying to setup, is have both the gnome desktop show up on both monitors. For example if I wanted to move something from my main monitor to the smaller one to the left of me, I want to NOT be able to do that, and only have the mouse be able to move accross the 2. 2 Seperate desktops one 2 seperate screens. Im not quite sure what its called, Im thinking maybe its a clone Desktop? Anways, The graphics card Im using is an
    Ati Radeon 5770, has 2 vga ports. I currently have the "video-ati" driver installed and works well with my main screen, but im unable to get my secondary screen (to the left of me) working. I tried going into System>>Preferences>>Monitors, and tried tinkering with the display, and tried enabling the 2 monitors and moving them from left to right, to see if that would possibly let it show up or start to function, but only the main screen works. I generated a new xorg.conf, since I didnt have one prior to installing Arch, I was following these to guides
    http://en.gentoo-wiki.com/wiki/X.Org/Dual_Monitors
    http://en.gentoo-wiki.com/wiki/X.Org/Dual_Monitors/ATI
    both are very nice, but Im still not quite understanding yet. Defiantly am trying. I edited my xorg.conf a few times, but got the same results each time, just the screen going blank and X crashing.  I have here a copy of my xorg.conf, Xorg.conf.log, and xrandr output
    Xorg.conf
    http://pastebin.com/hbmdKrfv
    Xorg-logs
    http://pastebin.com/USZvtAMJ  (Im thinking the Vsync and Hsync have something that might help)
    Xrandr
    http://pastebin.com/2cV95Ef4
    Thank you guys!

    An xorg.conf may not be necessary, but I still find it nice to have the control that the file provides.
    In looking over yours, I see several things that could be causing your problems.
    First off,  I notice that you have Screen0  that is using Card0 and Monitor0.  This part looks ok. 
    When I look at Screen1, I notice that you are using  ATI Graphics Adapter1 and Monitor1.   I don't see entries for either of those, although you have an ATI Graphics Atapter2, but there is no entry for your second monitor.
    I also notice that you are trying to use both radeon and fglrx as drivers.  As far as I know (and I don't have an ATI video card at the moment), you can use one driver or the other, but not both.
    After you have these things fixed, then you can put in the Screen section in your server layout to describe the positioning of your second monitor.
    All in all, the issues that you have to fix are minor,  but frusterating if you are too close to the situation. 
    Good luck.

  • Dual monitors with macbook closed

    i am running dual monitors with Macbook Pro and would like for my Macbook to be closed.  How do I change that setting?

    How do I change that to two separate extended screens.
    I don't believe you can. Check with Matrox, but my understanding is that the external monitors running through the Matrox box will always function as a single extended desktop in two parts.
    If you do check with Matrox about this, please post back with your findings — I'll be interested to know, whether I'm right or not.

  • Problem with CPU Voltage

    Hello
    I build new PC with:
    i5-760
    Noctua NH-D14
    MSI P55-GD65
    G.Skill 2x2GB CL7 ECO
    Antec TruePower New 750W TP-750
    TwinTech GF 9600GT
    I have problem with CPU voltage as even when I set it for example to 1.201v in bios, under load it overshot to 1.256-1268. The best is when I oc`ed cpu to 4GHZ and set voltage in bios for 1.30v it overshot for 1.45v+! Not to mention that temps are skyhigh from that. It doesn`t matter if I try to put BIOS Vcore on 1.1v on stock because under load it still rise to 1.16. I turned off all eist, c-state, turbo boost, phase led and switch phase, set vdrop to low and still something is wrong here. I updated the bios under dos from USB stick to newest 1.9 version in order to update CPU micro code without error and it not helped. I want to know is that even possible to fix or should I RMA MB or CPU.
    Minor problem is with sysfans as they power on for a second and turn off instantly to start working again when I see list on devices in post. After rebot when my monitor is switched off it takes something like 5 sec to power monitor on and another 5 to show bios, is that normal?

    I have similar issues, it's hard to tell which measurement is the most accurate, there are 2 different measurements in the control center that don't match up with the figures set in the bios.  The only way to be sure would be to get an expensive accurate multimeter but If you're only interested in running a stable overclocked computer without knowing the exact figures then get the computer running stable and lower the voltages until it starts to become unstable with prime95,
    Or you could work the other way round, set the voltages so it boots but doesn't run prime95 for long, then raise the vcore and vtt one at a time until your happy with the length of time prime95 runs without errors.  I'd be happy with 24 hours, I seem to remember errors creeping in at around the 9 hour mark on the setting below what I have it set to now.

Maybe you are looking for