Duplicate lg batch raw to jpg

I shoot all photos in RAW format and am wanting to duplicate over two hundred photos to smaller jpg size to be used in Pages, Kepnote, iMovie. Having them still in Raw means the size of my file is over 50mg's and can;t be printed or transferred with ease.
RAW photos of 12mg are to be printed large. So it is in my best intrest to continue shooting large.
thanks for your input.

Will, this is not exactly what you are looking for but maybe this will help you if you own Photoshop CS2 or CS3.
1. Configure LR to automatically update the XMP section of your DNG files.
2. Use LR to tweak the images in your "watched folder"
3. Copy the processed DNG files to the destination folder on your network drive. You can do this manually or use apps like SyncToy on XP.
4. use the ImageProcessor script in Photoshop CS2 to create JPGs. (Ensure that you use ACR 3.7 in CS2)
4.1 specify the folder "customerName/rawfiles/" as source and target. ImageProcessor will create a JPG folder automatically
4.2 (optional) Use Actions within the ImageProcessor script to leverage sharpening solutions like PhotoKit Sharpener which are momentarily better that the sharpening LR offers.
regards
Chris

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Cs6 problem with batch from raw to jpg

hello
I recently have problem when I want to batch raw files in bridge and convert them to jpg. it gives me errow message as: The command "Save" is not currently available. (-25920)
I try all possible ways but it doesn't work. I try to process files - script- image processor but in this way doesn't work eather. different computer works just fine with same files and using same workflow.
Just few weeks back I was able to do all my work without problem. Please HELP,HELP,HELP
Bibi

Andrew Shalit wrote:
I used iPhoto for many years and found it to be cumbersome and more trouble than it was worth. It did not let me manage, organize, rate, tag, and edit my photos in any way approaching convenience.
Hate to say this for the 3rd time, but use Canon's "DPP" (Digital Photo Professional).
With it you can "manage, organize, rate, tag, and edit [your] photos" as well as batch convert to jpeg or othet formats.

Should I shoot RAW or JPG and what ratio should I pick when shooting stills?

I want to take artistic pictures. Does that mean I should shoot RAW and then deal with the settings in Photoshop? I realize I can't for the corporate photo contest because I am not allowed to Photoshop anything for the contest. And pictures at a party that I intend to share or immediately upload, I understand why I would not shoot RAW.
Are there other reasons not to do so?
Many of you know me. I have been shooting video for a while and I am just now starting to shoot stills. These are tough questions for me.
I always assumed I would shoot stills using the maximum frame size possible. However, I have other choices.
When the aspect ratio setting is [4:3]
4608x3456 pixels, 3264x2448 pixels, 2336x1752 pixels
When the aspect ratio setting is [3:2]
4608x3072 pixels, 3264x2176 pixels, 2336x1560 pixels
When the aspect ratio setting is [16:9]
4608x2592 pixels, 3264x1840 pixels, 1920x1080 pixels
When the aspect ratio setting is [1:1 ]
3456x3456 pixels, 2448x2448 pixels, 1744x1744 pixels
Now, to be honest, I can't think of a reason to shoot stills at any size other than the 4:3 based 4608x3456 except to save room on the memory card. But I figured I should probably ask just in case I am missing something. Storage is not an issue as far as I can tell at this time. I bought two 64GB cards and I will be able to use part of my 16GB Smartphone memory card for additional storage should the need arise. Most likely I will have plenty of room until I can copy over to my laptop and then on to an external drive.
For reference: http://www.herviewphotography.com/2012/06/18/raw-vs-jpg-file-formats.html

Steven,
You are correct, that you should not shoot the Holiday Party pics in RAW, as they will only be used to blackmail your boss, and co-workers, so JPEG would be adequate for that (unless you really need to do Photoshop work, to make the images more "compromising... ").
Now, shooting in Camera RAW has several advantages, and really only two disadvantages, that I can think of.
Camera RAW captures everything that the sensor can, but it is in unprocessed form (one of the disadvantages), and then Photoshop with the ACR (Adobe Camera RAW) can "process" your images. I do this, when I have real use for the Images. I have developed a Preset for my Nikon Camera RAW, for each camera, so it's fairly easy to batch process. I always Save_As PSD, since I will very likely do additional work (not useful for the company competition, but CAN be useful for those black-mail pictures, if you have much "work" to do).
I Save my NEF's (Nikon Camera RAW) Images, and then, in a separate folder, my processed PSD's. Those are sort of like duplicate transparencies, but with slightly different data in each. From the first, the NEF's, I could always run them through ACR again, should something happen to my PSD's. The reverse is not true, but at least I would have my PSD's.
For use in Video, I will almost always Open my PSD's, and Scale them, plus possibly do other Image-editing, per my needs. As I shoot at max. resolution (~ 4000 x 3000), I will be Scaling, and then likely Cropping (as most Projects now, are 16:9). If you do any 4:3 Projects, then you are already there, save for the Square Pixel vs Rectangular Pixel issue, but if you Scale the 4:3 material to 640 x 480 Square, it should look just fine in a 4:3 PAR=0.9 Project's Frame.
In camera, I always try to mentally compose the Images into 16:9 horizontal, if I see the potential for Video use. It's like keeping 11 x 17 in the back of my mind, when shooting for potential double-truck magazine use. [Back in film days, I made several Nikon screens, to fit various common uses.]
Though PrPro CS 6 (as of CS 5), with full CUDA/MPE support, can do a great job of Scaling, I still use my PS Actions to batch process entire folders, and usually on Bicubic Sharper, though for some subjects, I choose Bicubic Smoother. This means that I am not "pushing around" a bunch of unused pixels. I Crop each Image, and then Scale it, with the Action, to match the Frame Size of the Project.
Now, back to RAW. That allows you the full capture from the sensor, so you have everything to work with. I shoot in 16-bit, for as much data, as I can get. One step in the process, but usually well after the ARC processing, and Saving_As PSD, will be the conversion to 8-bit Mode, but only after ALL of my processing, as PrPro cannot use 16-bit Bit-Depth, for Video.
For just general shooting (usually "happy-snaps"), with no inteneded high-rez printing, or Video use, I will shoot JPEG, at the highest quality setting (lowest compression), and be done with it.
One disatvantage of Camera RAW is the write time to the card, but with newer cameras, and faster cards, that is less of a problem, than it once was. Still, even high-rez JPEG's, though they do require in-camera processing to JPEG, will allow one to shoot more quickly. [That can be very important with those Holiday Party pics, as who knows what will happen in the next nanosecond?]
To me, Camera RAW is sort of like standing in front of a photograph, with my entire set of cameras. I ask, "Is this really a great shot?" If so, out comes the 4 x 5. If the answer is "maybe," then I grab a Hassleblad. If the answer is "no, but it IS interesting," then the 35mm is my choice. Sort of the same thing, but instead of cameras, it's RAW vs High-rez JPEG.
Just some thoughts.
Hunt
[Edit] PS - what the linked article said.

Comparing RAW vs. jpg in Aperture When Shooting RAW + jpg

I just started shooting RAW + jpg with a brand new camera. I imported these photos into Aperture. The photos all have jpg as the master with the associated Badge indicating there is also a RAW version. Changing each Badge, I can toggle between the jpg and the RAW versions.
However, I would like to compare both versions (side by side). If I don’t like the jpeg version, I’ll post process using the RAW version. How can I do this in Aperture? Ideally, I would like to have these respective RAW and jpg versions of each photo in a single Stack to facilitate comparison.

Sven Erik wrote:
Excellent! However, do you know I can create separate masters after I've already imported?
You can do this either one at a time or in multiple selection:
1 - Select image(s) you want to see both JPEG and RAW masters for (let's say you have the JPEG set as master by default).
2 - Photos menu > Set RAW as Master (this switches JPEG master to RAW master)
3 - With image(s) still selected: 'Photos menu > New version from master'
4 - You now have two RAW versions of each image (the original master version and a new version)
5 - Select all original versions and then: 'Photos menu > Set JPEG as Master'
6 - You should now have a JPEG master and a RAW version of each image (the same as having a JPEG and RAW master side by side). The only difference is that the RAW will have '-version #' after the image name.
7 - You can run a batch change via 'Metadata menu > Batch change...' and use the Version Name Format drop-down / Edit function to change the name on the new masters (I sometimes use the 'Master File Name' and remove all other items from the format field, which leaves the same master name and the file extension).
I use the 'Both (JPEG as Master)' in Tony's screenshot and then just create a RAW version if the JPEG does not meet my needs for some reason.

RAW to JPG file conversions too small?

Hello,
I recently upgraded to CS3 from CS so I'm now using Bridge/ACR to convert my RAW files to .JPGs. What is puzzling me is, if I open one or more RAW files in Bridge, make some adjustments (usually WB, exposure, etc.), then use the Save Image option within Bridge to save the image(s) as .JPGs, I am getting very small file sizes (I'm using the Max Quality setting in Bridge, which is 10). For example, a RAW file goes from 6.5MB to 1.2MB. However, if I open the RAW file in Photoshop instead of Bridge/ACR, make adjustments, then save as a maximum quality .jpg, the file goes from 6.5MB to 4.5MB. My concern is that when using the batch/save option within Bridge I'm losing quality somewhere?
Any ideas?
Thanks,
FTP

Hi Omke,
Thank you for sharing your workflow--very generous and quite interesting.
Yesterday, I barged into an Adobe Forums thread similar to mine and I discovered the reason for the file size difference, it's the 10 setting you get when you select Maximum Quality from the Bridge Save Image dialogue box. Bridge, like PS, actually goes to a 12 quality setting, but you have to type in the 12 manually (a curious requirement) rather than selecting the Max Quality option, which always goes to 10. Once I manually typed in 12, my Bridge-converted (RAW to .jpg) files became precisely the same size as when I convert them using PS.
Here's a link to the thread:
charles badland, "raw to jpeg,jpeg file too small" #36, 30 Sep 2008 1:47 pm
Thanks again for your help and suggestions,
--FTP

Lost metadata in file after attempt to Save RAW As JPG in PS CS3

Someone in other place in this Forum advised me that this will be probably more appropriate place to ask these questions, so I will give it a go. Below is a copy of my post on PS Windows thread (well, two posts really edited into one):
Hi,
I have just found out that after I open RAW pictures from my Canon 5D (but same happens with pictures from Canon 10D) in PS and than try to save them as JPGs, I loose majority of my metadata from the files (after right click on filename in. I can still Windows Explorer and clicking Properties or simply adding additional columns in Win XP Windows Explorer detailed view.
So same picture, without any editing at all, just opened as RAW file (which it is a CR2 or CRW file in Canons), and then saved as JPG, suddenly does not show the date of picture taken, focal length or exposure time are all gone. Does not matter if I try Properties in Win Explorer or say Properties in MS Office Picture Manager.
Was trying to look for any setting in PS that would set the ability to save or abandon saving of this type of information in JPG file but could not find anything of this kind.
What is interesting I went back to my pictures I have saved from RAW to JPG using same PS years ago, and I this was not a problem. Everything was saving OK.
So in summary:
1. This would not be a problem related to camera (it is unlikely that same problem would occur on two different models at the same time - even though both are Canons)
2. It must be a way to force the Photoshop to do that, I f I was able to do it successfully, almost without knowing, before.
Therefore, I would think that either:
1. There is some set of defaults somewhere in PS that I have accidently turned off causing my PS not to save this metadata properly or in full, or
2. That it came as some kind of bug with some of the updates to PS CS3 that I was getting over last year from Adobe.
Has any one else encountered similar problem? If yes, what did you do to resolve this issue?
I will be very grateful for any help, as I am not a frequent user of Adobe Photoshop and may just not be very familiar with the part that regulates that type of issues.
And I do not use the Save for Web option.
I just used (in PS CS3 running on Win XP Professional with SP3) the Save As from File menu.
What is also strange is that if I use File - Open command and get the first window with Open dialog box, where you have some basic options for opening/converting RAW format pictures (this window does not come up when I open JPG files) and I use existing there button to Save (which does not actually allow to do any editing of the picture before such way of saving) all Camera Properties, or that metadata, is actually saved into the newly created JPG quite correctly.
However if I use button Open in that conversion dialog box, and than save already opened RAW file as JPG, the majority of that data is gone (date picture taken, exposure time, aperture, focal length, exposure compensation steps etc).
I can see that RAW file has all this in the sections called EXIF and XMP (under File - File Information) but Save As does not add this info in the JPG files for some reason.

No, not really, because I ma not sure what it is for.
I just used (in PS CS3 running on Win XP Proffessional) the Save As from File menu.
What is also strange is that if I use Open command and get the first window with Open dialog box, where you have some basic options for opening/converting RAW format pictures (this window does not come up when I open JPG files) and I use existing there option to Save (which does not actually allow to do any editing of the picture before such way of saving) the all Camera Properties, or that metadata is actually saved into the newly created JPG.However if i use button Open in that conversion dialog box, and than save as JPG, the majority of that dtata is gone (date picture taken, exposure time, aperture, focal lenght, exposure compensation steps etc).
I can see that RAW file has all this in the sections called EXIF and XMP (under File - File Information) but Save As does not add this info in the JPG files for some reason.

Photoshop CS3, wanting to batch re-size JPGs, going: file-scripts-image processor, the batch images are greyed out can't be highlighted

Hi - I am trying to batch re-size JPGs in CS3. I go: file-scripts-image processor and select a batch of JPGs but these are greyed out and can't be highlighted, therefore can't be re-sized. This function worked in the past and suddenly does not. Reading forums on this topic I find I should remove/trash 'Photoshop Preferences'. But I am struggling to find Photoshop Preferences. Really would appreciate simple instructions written for the layman not a computer savvy individual, on how/where to locate these, please. Many thanks.

A few things to try.
1)Since jpg's are finiky with bit modes, make sure your mode is in 8-bits per channel only. (found in the image>mode menu)
2)you could try resetting the preferences by using the 3 modifier keys at startup. ctrl-alt-shift(windows) cmd-opt-shift(mac) Hold these three keys down when you start photoshop if done right when photoshop starts you should get a dialog box asking if you want to reset the preferences)
3)If these do not help specify the version of photoshop, what OS you have and its version. Then someone can tell you the location of the preference files since it is different on windows vs. a mac.

Bridge cs4 can not open raw and jpg directly by itself

i never did it! i want to open raw and jpg files by camera raw directly with open photoshop. i have made the choose to open by double click in the preference but still can not do.
my brother's computer can open both of them and we are similar xp system.
and i have checked and reinstalled many times and still failed.

A bit of magic (if I'd remember):
1. open PS, from here File > Browse in Bridge
2. open any RAW/DNG - it goes to PS
3. switch to Bridge window (PS still open)
4. R-click, select "open in Camera RAW"
5. Close all
Now opening in Bridge should work :)
Chris

Multiple Black and white conversion from raw or jpgs

Hi All
Any help would be appreciated.
I have 300 wedding images taken on raw and jpg. I now want to convert them all to black and white. Any way I can do this without doing it one at a time (whether using raw or jpg files)?
Hope someone has the answer or else I need to fork out £500 for CS4!!
Clive

Hi
Thanks for reply. I am able to open and convert from raw ok, what I don’t know if I can do is process multiple files that have been changed, i.e. to black and white?
I don’t think PE8 will actually do this.
Clive Wilkinson
Assessment Coordinator
Kirklees Warm Zone
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Images as RAW and jpgs - how to separate?

I shoot both RAW and jpg, that way I have the RAW for detailed editing, and the jpg for quick edits to post on web, as required, or to send a quick copy to friends. I will probably stop this (shooting both) when I get used to editing RAW, but that is part of my evolution and growth in developing my skills in my digital darkroom.
When I first started with LR, I was using the Beta 2 version and simply imported my PS Elements 8 Catalog and that worked okay, because both versions of the image were imported so that I could see both of them and then pick the image I wanted for further editing. I have now upgraded to the new, full version of LR3 and have just downloaded my first set of images from a weekend of shooting - went looking for bluebirds and only found one nesting box with an active pair in it. I will go back for more in a day or so - more images that is. It is strange how the population of nesting bluebirds in my part of the Western Prairies has declined significantly in the past five years, but that is a whole, different story, Anyway to proceed...I downloaded the images from this afternoon's shoot and found that the RAW image (Canon - CR2) and the jpeg show as one image with a title that says IMG_xxxxx.CR2+jpg. I would like to be able to break the two different images out, or at least get at each one separately for editing purposes. For the life of me, I cannot figure this one out. I am still waiting for Kelby's LR3 book that I pre-ordered...maybe this week. Not sure if that will tell me how to do this, assuming I can. If I can't do this, then I will have to import into Elements 8 and then re-import that file into LR3 - a process I would rather not have to do.
Any insight that anyone can provide on how to do this (I assume it can be done) will be greatly appreciated. Maybe it is something as simple as a "switch" on an import preset, or setting up a "custom" import preset (if there is such a thing). Thanks in advance.
Regards,
WesternGuy

Susan, thanks for the insight. I think I will follow your lead and delete the images from my catalog and re-import them. Hopefully I can find the options that you have noted. It would be nice, though, if there was a way to break them apart after loading, but at least I don't have too many to redo.
Regards,
WesternGuy

Last wish, preset converting RAW into JPG with more contrast, saturation & sharpening

A close family member is dying and she has still many RAW files, which of course look slightly lifeless as all RAW files do. She asked me to look for a simple Lightroom preset which will convert her RAWs into Jpgs with more contrast, saturation and sharpening. She has Lightroom 3, but has no experience in making presets and neither do I. She needs the preset to make the RAW files as Jpgs available to her partner & children. No fancy effects; just simple. She cannot work on her computer anymore. Can you help me with a concrete preset or if not can you make one for her?

This forum is for plugin developers - consider posting in 'Photoshop Lightroom' forum instead (at top of page, New -> Discussion -> Photoshop Lightroom).

How to use batch processing with jpg pictures taken with iphone cameras?

How to use batch processing with jpg pictures taken with iphone cameras?

Open the editor . Go to file>process multiple files
Sent from my iPad

Question about RAW to JPG file sizes

Hello all, I have a question/concern in reference to file size changes when converting from RAW to JPG formats in PSE6. I've recently purchased a CANON 50D, and have started shooting in RAW format (actually RAW2+JPG). I have the CAMERA RAW 5.2 plugin and my workflow process is something akin to this:
1. Separate all RAW and JPG images into their respective folders.
2. Open the RAW folder in BRIDGE, and then open up a CR2 file. CR2 file is approx 15MB at this point, as reported in Finder.
3. Perform various corrections in ACR52 to the file, then do as SAVE AS to a DNG file.
4. Next step is to OPEN IMAGE, bringing it up in PSE6.
5. Make any necessary corrections to the picture, and then do a SAVE AS to a new file name and folder, selecting JPG format.
6. Selection MAX QUALITY from subsequent dialogue box, and SAVE.
When the file is saved, its now down to a mere 2.1 or 2.2MB, and when viewing its properties (vs. the same file that came from camera in JPG format), its down from a 44x66" format, to somewhere around 4x6" and 240dpi.
I've been doing some reading on this over the weekend, but cant explain away the severe loss in file size, and whether this is right, or if I'm doing something wrong in the process.
Appreciate any advice or suggestions to help improve my work processes, and ultimately the final photos!

Regarding your file size questions, have a look at this thread and see if it answers some of your questions:
http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/741532/0
> When the file is saved, its now down to a mere 2.1 or 2.2MB, and when viewing its properties (vs. the same file that came from camera in JPG format), its down from a 44x66" format, to somewhere around 4x6" and 240dpi.
Dimensions and resolution are related and multiple combinations can be produced from the same number of pixels. For example, your 50D at maximum image size produces 4,752 by 3,168 pixels. This full-size image could be printed at:
- 19.8 x 13.2 inches at 240 PPI
- 47.52 x 31.68 inches at 100 PPI
- 7.92 x 5.28 inches at 600 PPI
As you can maybe see, talking about dimensions and resolution doesn't make much sense until you are ready to consider printing. Note also that I used "PPI" or Pixels Per Inch since this is the slightly more correct terminology. DPI or "Dots Per Inch" is usually a reference to how a printer lays down the ink drops onto the paper. Many printers actually put more "dots" on the paper than there are pixels. Many people and companies use DPI when they mean PPI.
Now in your case you are apparently starting with an SRAW2 raw file. SRAW2 files from the 50D have a reduced number of pixels and are 2,276 pixels wide by 1,584 pixels high. At 240 PPI this would allow you to print the image at 9.9 by 6.6 inches. If you are ending up with something smaller than that, it means you have either re-sampled the image (changed the image so the same image is displayed with fewer pixels) or you have cropped the image.
Hope that helps.

Raw and jpg as one in Lightroom 3 second try.

When I import the pictures from my camera I get my raw and jpg together as one image. But the pictures I already have in Lightroom 3 are divided into separate folders and show up as separate pictures. Is it possible to merge the raw and jpg together without importing them anew? I have put keywords on almost all my jpg in Elemenst 8 and don't want to do it again if I don't have to. It took me weeks to do.
Any help appreciated.

Thanks!
I'm in no hurry so I'' wait to see if someone comes up with a solution. Otherwise I guess I have to import them anew and tag them again. Not difficult. Just taskes a while. Should have done it correct from the beginning.

Since mountain lion my MBP won't import RAW or jpg files

my MBP won't import RAW or jpg files. Worked fine before. Could it be Mountain Lion?

By way of a double check I just imported photos, both jpg and RAW, without any problems into Aperture 3.3.2 on Mountain Lion without any problems what so ever.
Allan

Duplicate lg batch raw to jpg

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