DV6 Power supply

The power supply for my DV6 makes this quiet, yet noticeable crackling noise. I bought the laptop a month ago, and I started to notice this noise about 2 weeks ago, it happens all the time when the laptop is plugged in. I'd imagine this isn't supposed to happen, but I'm not sure what the exact problem is. Do I need to have it replaced and if so, what would I have to do to do that (It should still be under warranty).
Thanks.

mine does this too- haven't found any solution yet...

Similar Messages

HP Pavilion dv6-1355dx not turning on using AC power supply.

1. Product Name and Number:
VM222UA#ABA "HP Pavilion dv6-1355dx"
2. Operating System installed (if applicable):
Windows 7 64bit
3. Error message (if any):
Dose not turn-on on AC power or charge the battery
4. Any changes made to your system before the issue occurred:
None
Summary of the poroblem:
Facts:
1) The laptop works perfectly fine using the battery.
2) The battery dose not charge using the AC adapter that came with the laptop.
3) The battery dose not charge when the laptop is turned on or off.
4) No chaging light turns on when pluged into AC.
5) When the battery is pluged into the battery slot on the laptop, the white AC power led on the dc jack turns off.
6)The very second I remove the battery from the computer, the white AC power led on the dc jack turns back on!
7) With the battery removed and the AC power supply pluged into the laptop, the laptop won't turn on, and the white AC power led on the dc jack remains on.
Tests done:
1) Used another adapter with the laptop, but had the same problem.
2) Used different battery, but had the same problem.
Interesting fact:
When the battery is completly drained out, the white AC power led on the dc jack turns on, but I still cannot turn on the laptop on AC power supply.
Note:
I Have a multimeter that I want to use to test the power supply and charging circuit on the motherboard, but I don't have a schamatics of the mother board, so I am stuck.
Any suggestions from the HP community would be appriciated. Thanks.

The laptop has a modular DC jack that plugs into the motherboard with a cable and does not require soldering. The first thing to try is a replacement of that jack. Here is the Service Manual:
Manual
You need this part:
Power connector cable 533465-001
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Power-Jack-w-CABLE-HP-PAVILION-DV6-1355DX-DV6-1030US-/140598729337?pt=Lap...
$7 on eBay, shipped.

Pavilion DV6 1311el power supply ok, power led does not light up

I own a dv6 notebook model 1311el that works just fine with a charged battery but it wont accept charge from the charger. The led next to the power jack does not light up, i have removed the power button bezel and keyboard and then i used a multimeter to measure the voltage between the wires of the power jack cord and there were 19.5 and 15 volts as it should... I am sure that the power supply works because i gave it to a friend of mine which has the same hp model.

Hello Nessuno,
I see your AC adapter is not charging your HP Pavilion dv6-1311el Entertainment Notebook, your battery indicator LED is not lit. I would like you to start here, this will help you determine if it is the battery or the power supply: Battery Does not Power Notebook or Hold a Charge.
A battery that does not charge might be the result of a power adapter failure, a system board failure, or a battery failure. Please perform the steps listed in the troubleshooting document in order to diagnose the failure.
I hope this is helpful.
Thank you,
HevnLgh
I work on behalf of HP
Please click “Accept as Solution” if you feel my post solved your issue, it will help others find the solution.
Click the “Kudos Thumbs Up" to the left of the reply button to say “Thanks” for helping!

Dv6-3181nr, installed clear windows, all time hot on power supply

Hey. I have a HP Pavilion dv6. I format my drive and lost factory recover. Now I have a clear windows 7, download a driver from official webstie HP and my lapotp all time hot when on power supply. I change past and clean inside laptop.
When instaled a HP Power Plan all time see not respondet.
Need a facotry resore, recovery .
Information my laptop :
dv6-3181nr, serial CNF110389N, product number LS954UA#ABA
On website HP if write my zip code to order, not found my country (Poland)
Do you have OEM HP to my laptop?
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit
Sorry for my english.

Hello dudek564,
Thank you for writing in. Your English is much better than my Polish.
Take a look at this page, which provides restore information. Please let me know if this helps.
Good luck!
↙-----------How do I give Kudos?| How do I mark a post as Solved? ----------------↓

Replacing my dv6-1260se power supply, need help.

I am in need of a new power supply for my laptop and was wondering which one would be the best. i believe my options are the 90w smart ac power adapter and the slim power adapter. any suggestions?

So what's the issue you're having?
I have never heard that rumor, a volt is a volt, an watt is a watt.
If you like my post, or solution to your issue/question, go ahead and click on the little star by my name and/or accept the post as the Solution. It makes me happy.
I'm NOT an employee of Best Buy, or Geek Squad, though I did work as an Agent for a year 5 years ago. None of my posts are to be taken as the official stance that Best Buy will take on your situation. My advice is just that, advice.
Unfortunately, that's the bad luck of any electronic, there's going to be bad Apples... wait that's a horrible pun.

Dv6 6121se, wont start, power supply OK, caps lock blinking

Hello,
Can someone help me? I was playing a game when suddenly the laptop just restarted by itself and the next time it booted the caps lock key is just blinking, with the monitor off ( not even a small backlight on i ) but the lights on keyboard and mouse is lighted., i am running it on a Dynamic set of GPU so i was using that time a high performance GPU, power supply is also plug and the battery is also in. 1 out of 10 i tried starting it but it only opens for a 10 to 120 sec running time after that it restart again and same thing happens, the caps lock key just keep on blinking, i can turn off the blinking by pressing the right shift key, but thats it nothing happens, just the caps lock key. i just resenly reformat it because one of the integrated graphics cards were not performing will, but it has been 2 weeks already since this happen. i cant even go to start up test to see whats happening thru test. i was thingking and a friend of me said my hard drive could have been crashed or my cpu is burned? i hope not..

Hi,
Try the steps listed in the below link
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Pavilion-dv6-Entertainment-Notebook-PC-series/5082212/model/5...
"I work for HP."
Please click the "White Kudos" star to say thanks for helping.
Please mark "Accept As Solution" if my help has solved your problem.

Power supply get very hot!

I just bought a Pavilion dv6-6c35dx laptop and have noticed that the power supply gets really really hot, to the point that it scares me and I disconnect the laptop. Does anyone has the same problem?

Same problem here on my dv6-6c35dx.
I didn't know about the power cord recall, and I bought a new ac adapter, power cord and replaced the battery. No change, the adapter gets really hot, too hot using the 2 second rule! Experienced chefs use it to determine if a grill is hot enough by touching it for no more than 2 seconds.
I'm now putting it on a ceramic plate to make sure it doesn't smoke something when its charging. I hope HP knows this is a problem. Maybe the battery charging rate can be slowed and this may help.

I need help picking the correct power supply for my HP Pavilion a1000

Hello,
I need to replace my power supply on my HP Pavilion a1000. It currently has the original (A Bestec Model: ATX-300-12Z CDR. The HP P/N is 5188-2625.
I found one on ebay that has the same numbers but instead of CDR, it says DDR. I don't really know what that means. The listing is below. Will this work? If not, could you give me a link that would work?
Thanks ahead of time for your help!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Not-Noisy-Replacement-PC-Power-Supply-fo-Bestec-ATX-300-12Z-DDR-HP-P-N-5188-...
This question was solved.
View Solution.

jimmycaps wrote:
Hello,
I need to replace my power supply on my HP Pavilion a1000. It currently has the original (A Bestec Model: ATX-300-12Z CDR. The HP P/N is 5188-2625.
I found one on ebay that has the same numbers but instead of CDR, it says DDR. I don't really know what that means. The listing is below. Will this work? If not, could you give me a link that would work?
Thanks ahead of time for your help!!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Not-Noisy-Replacement-PC-Power-Supply-fo-Bestec-ATX-300-12Z-DDR-HP-P-N-5188-...
Hi,
Yes the PSU will be ok. It's a desktop so you don't have to use exactly the same PSU. It can be even more powerful but make sure there are all compatible connectors. It looks like the CDR version is only 300W and the DDR 400W. The connectors are the same..
http://www.newpowersupply.com/bestec_atx_300_12z_cdr_300w_300w_24_pin_ps2_replacement_power_supply_p...
Dv6-7000 /Full HD/Core i5-3360M/GF 650M/Corsair 8GB/Intel 7260AC/Samsung Pro 256GB
Testing - HP 15-p000
HP Touchpad provided by HP
Currently on Debian Wheeze
*Please, help other users with the same issue by marking your solved topics as "Accept as Solution"*

Dv7 3190eo power supply

Hi HP
My mom has a DV7 3190eo that has been working like a charm until recently when the power supply stopped working. I looked around on the net for a replacement, but couldn't find a power supply on 120W, which the specifications for the laptop says it has.
My question now is... Is a 120W PSU needed for the laptop or can I simply replace it with a 90W one?
This question was solved.
View Solution.

Bonnicksen wrote:
Hi HP
My mom has a DV7 3190eo that has been working like a charm until recently when the power supply stopped working. I looked around on the net for a replacement, but couldn't find a power supply on 120W, which the specifications for the laptop says it has.
My question now is... Is a 120W PSU needed for the laptop or can I simply replace it with a 90W one?
Hi,
I have got a 90W charger for a Core i7 Dv7-3000 but I think even a 65W charger might work on your Core i5 processor. I suggest to get a genuine HP charger from ebay. It's more expensive than the non genuine ones but still genuine. The connector must be 7.4x5mm.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-ORIGINAL-HP-PAVILION-DV3-DV4-DV5-DV6-DV7-CHARGER-ADAPTER-90W-ROUND...
Dv6-7000 /Full HD/Core i5-3360M/GF 650M/Corsair 8GB/Intel 7260AC/Samsung Pro 256GB
Testing - HP 15-p000
HP Touchpad provided by HP
Currently on Debian Wheeze
*Please, help other users with the same issue by marking your solved topics as "Accept as Solution"*

DV63250 Power supply Problems

My son is a new marine in training and bought a New Hp dv6-3250us and tried to charge it to no avail. He is unable to call or ship it out, he is in a very stressful time of his training and wanted this to keep in contact to the outside world. He stated that the laptop shows the charger registering but no lighting bolt or charging green lights. Please HELP! HP Customer support keeps saying he needs to call. HE IS IN THE MILITARY TRAINING FEILD, he can't. How can I help him, I have all the warranty information, serial numbers and so forth. Please advise!

Ask him to unplug the power supply and remove the battery.
inspect the battery to ensure there is no plastic covering the gold contacts and if any is found, remove it
and then put the battery back in place and start up the notebook with the power adapter.
Calibrate the battery
Best regards,
erico
****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

I had an Intel-iMac fried by lightening. UPS, surge protectors but it happened as I was reaching to unplug. Cold now. Could it just be the power supply? Can I replace that myself?

This is the full question since I couldn't get it all in the box.
I have some complex questions regarding an iMac, a Time-Machine backup, and iTunes on an iPod.
I live about halfway up an extinct volcano about 12 miles north of San Jose Costa Rica. Some months ago, we had a thunderstorm and as I reached to unplug my computers lightening struck about 50 meters from my house. I had an iMac with a 3-Tb external backup drive, a PC laptop and a laser printer on the same power strip. There was a definite surge and the light brighten and then power was lost for a few minutes.
When power was restored, the PC and the laser printer seemed to work fine but the iMac was cold.
First questions: Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk.
Next question: Do I need to replace the hard-drive before taking it for service? How hard is that, can I do it? I have seen videos of the drive replacement on-line.
Those are my iMac questions, now the questions about backup restoration.
If there is a saving grace with this it is that the Time-Machine backup seems fine although I have only accessed the data through Finder. I replaced the iMac with a Macbook Air with significantly less mass storage and I can't just move files to the Macbook. My problem is that I have an iTunes library of some 10,000 songs on the backup and until recently on a 160 Gb iPod which was old and it crashed. I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
Thanks for any help you can give.

Is is possible that the power supply was fried and not other essential parts? Would it be worthwhile to replace the power supply? Can I, with limited experience and tools do it or need I take it to a technician? My concern is that if the hard-drive is good, there is personal information on it that I don't want to risk
Quite possible, but working on iMacs is not easy, & PSU might be prohibitive.
Hopefully the Drive might have info on it, but even pulling that out can be a chore.
If you don't know the model, find the Serial# & use it on one of these sites, but don't post the Serial# here...
http://www.chipmunk.nl/klantenservice/applemodel.html
http://www.appleserialnumberinfo.com/Desktop/index.php
How to find the serial number of your Apple hardware product...
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1349
I have replaced the iPod but have not tried to restore the iTunes library to it because of my confusion about how to do that. Can anyone tell me how I might do that or give me any insight into the process?
I'd get an external drive & restore the whole works to it, then boot from the External drive.

Shock Therapy - An Athlon64 / FX Power Supply Guide

I used to make a hardware list of all the components I would like to incorporate in my next
computer build. Normally...at the bottom of that list would be the power supply, not that I
didn't think it was important, it's just that my other hardware was so interesting! Today, power supplys
seem to take a back seat to blazing-speed CPU's, Dual-Cored processors, glitz and glamour
video cards...not to mention supersonic, heat-sinked RAM and modular, gizmoe'd PSU's promising not
only over-achiever specifications, but eye-candy as well. The lowly PSU....tucked up somewhere inside
it's dark and lonely loft....effortlessly supplying us with the energy required for important 3D imaging
or just funning with the latest games.
What a power supply does is rather simple. It converts your office or home's socketed electricity to
usable 3.3v, 5.0v and 12.0v energy...that's all. A power supply that cannot efficiently do this will-
over time-cause computer crashes, continuous reboots and shutdowns, and worse...expensive component damage.
And now, with faster processors such as AMD's Athlon64 and FX line of CPU's, never has there been a time, when
choosing the right power supply is so important! This article is written for those using these high-powered CPU's!
Well...Do we have your attention!?
If you are experiencing these problems, or still scratching your head over that last RMA....could be
your PSU is trying to tell you something.
To begin with, a power supply's ratings refer to its maximum output under ideal conditions. No power
supply is 100% efficient. In high-quantity manufacturing, power supplys may not put out any more than 60% of
their advertised specifications. In any PSU, that rating can be further reduced by the effects of heat
and electro-magnetic radiation. That's where "switching" power supplys come in. A switching power supply draws
only as much current that is needed from the AC input. Buying a hefty PSU with this feature will guarantee
that you will be paying no more for electric service, than you would with a cheaper, less powerful unit.
One of the most common causes of power supply inefficiency, and ultimately failure is dirt. Dust and
foreign materials can cause the beginning of the end for a power supply, by attacking the fan first.
It begins by slowing the fan down...thus creating heat through friction, then ultimately burning it out.
PSU's with high-quality ball bearing fans are a must. They are far more durable, and not as likely to
become noisier as time goes by.
As a general rule...a failing PSU will usually emit abnormal sounds, followed by unstable voltage readings....
then the computer crashes or lock-ups, with random shutdowns, and sometimes...refusal to even power-up.
If you think your power supply is on its last leg...better to deal with it now, or face the more serious dilemmas later on.
APM (Advanced Power Management)
APM is a feature originally developed by partners, Microsoft and Intel. It relates to a systems ability
to utilize different states in regards to a systems utilization of power. On, Off, Standby and Suspend
are examples...these are BIOS features, not PSU functions. APM only requires of the power supply, the
function to turn power on or off through an electrical signal, and the presence of stand-by voltage.
All ATX power supplys are required to incorporate this feature. However, if some components in a computer
are not APM-compliant, your system may encounter errors or freezes when going into hibernate or stand-by
modes.
ACPI (Advanced Control Power Interface)
It's the latest power management control that was developed by a conglomeration of IT corporations. This interface
is O.S. derived, rather than BIOS, and all ATX power supplys should be ACPI-compliant. You should not have to be
concerned about this feature.
Line-Conditioning Circuitry
A power supply component that helps control power levels, spikes and surges in
the most unreliable of home sockets.
EMI Filter
This circuitry smooths the fluctuations of incoming AC currents, also known
as Electro-Magnetic Interference - EMI filters are usually found in higher-end power supplys.
PFCC
Power Factor Correction Circuitry...smooths out sudden, initial spikes in power
delivery - reducing amplitude and preventing circuit overloads.
Connectors
There are five main connectors found on the latest version ATX power supply.
1) ATX main power connector - 20-pin, 24-pin, and 20 to 24-pin adapter.
2) ATX 12v power connector (4-pin to CPU)
3) Molex peripheral power connector
4) Floppy power connector
5) Serial ATA power connector
On newer SLI-certified power supplys, you'll find two 6-pin video card connectors.
Know What You Need
When purchasing a power supply, make sure your parts list is all-inclusive...know ahead of time, what you expect to
install in your system. You should also visit the motherboard manufacturer's site, as well as the CPU's. Most of the
products will have specifics regarding power supply requirements needed for that specific component. Unfortunately, you
really won't know how well the PSU performs until it is installed and running your system (hopefully!) This is the main reason we
recommend the most popular brands - power supplys that have shown a duration of manufacturing quality over the years. Those are
as follows: Antec, Enermax, OCZ, PC Power and Cooling, Tagan, and a few newcomers such as SeaSonic and Silverstone are
worth looking into.
If you believe you have found the PSU of choice, remember this: AMD recommends a minimum 350 watt power supply to run
Athlon64 and FX CPU's. To that, add the 30% for power lost to heat, and the subsequent electro-magnetic radiation. Hold on with that
calculator...throw in an additional 40% to 60% for the "potential" inaccuracies of specifications inherent in mass-produced electronics.
Pay special attention to outputs on either single, or dual rail +12v lines. A motherboard, CPU, and graphics card can consume up to
150 watts alone - before hooking up your remaining components. If running an SLI configured board, look for a PSU that is certified
to run that configuration...there's only a few PSU's that lay claim to that!
Broken down, you can look at it this way: An Athlon64/FX processor can use up to 90 watts off the +12v rail. High performance RAM
can take in about 25 watts for each stick of 256MB system memory from the +3.3v line. PCI cards will use about 10 watts each, while
an AGP video card can consume about 50 precious watts alone from the +5v or +12v. Hard drives? A 7,200 RPM drive...about 15 watts
each, taken from the +5v and +12v rail. Finally, but not absolutely is the optical drives...robbing about 20 watts each, also from
the +5v and +12v lines. So you see....not only is the +12v amp ratings of concern, but also the +5v line!
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Modular Power Supplys:
The pins that are used for the modular plugs are not very good at passing current. It's basically electrical resistance between the male and female components, and voltage "drops" are likely. In real world events, they will become loose, dirty, corrosive, and eventually burn. You can figure about 10% less efficiency with a modular power supply.
Now you can understand how manufacturing "tolerances" that are inaccurate by 40% to 60%, can have such a devastating effect on
the performance of your new system. If you follow these simple guidelines, bearing in mind the hardware you will be using, and what
your intended use of the computer is for...then it will be one less dramatic incident when pushing the power button for the first time!
Here's a neat little tool....a bit out of date - that can give you a basic idea of what you'll need in a PSU.
You can apply the percentages above, for an even more accurate assesment of your PSU requirements!
http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/Power_Supply_Calculator.php?cmd=AMD

Quote
In doing the math...on a system incorporating an Athlon64 (say a 4000+), 2 sticks of high-end RAM, 2 or 3 PCI cards, 1 mid-to-high
end AGP video card, 2 ~ 7,200 RPM hard drives, and a couple of CD/RW or DVD/RW opticals...you're looking at a "base" requirement of 270 to 325 watts. That's for a running system...now figure boot-up loads, 30% for heat and radiation bleed-off, then a 40% safety factor for manufacturing inconsistencies...you've got a power supply in the 450 to 520 watt range!
Well, except the CPU, my system has all that you mentioned there (I even have 3 optical drives). And my 350W PSU has been rock solid for more than a year (BeQuiet, = Tagan, IIRC). I don't think a 4000+ needs 100W more than my 3200+ . And that link you posted says that the minimum recommended PSU for my system is 506W xD. Come on.
Oh, and in the place I work there are 6 amd64 with GeForce 6800 GT and 2GB RAM with 380W Antec PSUs. All 100% stable, of course.
I would only go for >400W if I wanted to do extreme OC (with overvolting), or SLI. Otherwise, a good brand 350W PSU is more than enough.

MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU power supply problem

Hello !
I am a lucky owner of MSI KT3 Ultra-ARU motherboard but have one problem. My power supply Fortron (FSP Group) 300-GT 300W seems to have some kind of incompatibility with this motherboard. In my case, the computer can't be shutted down by software. With BIOS version 2.5 it was impossible to shut it down with button too. With 2.6 it is possible to turn the computer off by button but software shutdown still don't work. PSU is working on ALL other boards I have tested so far normally. Somewhere in discussions (not in this forums) I discovered that also some kind of weird sounds occurs with Fortron supply on this board and that it is incompatible. Have anyone some clues to solve this PSU problem ? I am not able momentally to buy some other kind of PSU because Fortron is the only brand from higher category to obtain, so I would be like to solve this.....
Thanks for any info !

Voltage readings from sensors (current data):
w83697hf-isa-0290
Adapter: ISA adapter
Algorithm: ISA algorithm
VCore: +1.76 V (min = +0.00 V, max = +0.00 V)
+3.3V: +3.34 V (min = +2.97 V, max = +3.63 V)
+5V: +4.89 V (min = +4.50 V, max = +5.48 V)
+12V: +11.89 V (min = +10.79 V, max = +13.11 V)
-12V: -12.44 V (min = -13.21 V, max = -10.90 V)
-5V: -5.01 V (min = -5.51 V, max = -4.51 V)
V5SB: +5.51 V (min = +4.50 V, max = +5.48 V)
VBat: +3.42 V (min = +2.70 V, max = +3.29 V)
fan1: 4560 RPM (min = 1500 RPM, div = 4)
fan2: 2033 RPM (min = 1500 RPM, div = 4)
temp1: +40°C (limit = +60°C) sensor = thermistor
temp2: +44.5°C (limit = +60°C, hysteresis = +50°C) sensor = thermistor
PSU is powering Athlon XP 1700+ processor, the other big power consumer is GeForce4 Ti 4200 GPU. I am not able read currents for specific voltage outputs, so I am not able to measure whole power consumption. Computer is working normally, it is NOT overclocked (but it is stable overclocked too) and the only problem is PSU shutdown by software (win & linux, both of them has this problem). From BIOS v2.6 it is possible to shutdown the computer by power button. If it is tried by software, computer resets itself and three beeps occurs.

Power Supply and Graphics Card Question for HP Pavilion a6432p

Hello!
I have the HP Pavilion a6342p, and I'm wanting to install an NVIDIA Graphics Card either 512MB or 1GB. However, I'm not sure what is the power supply to this model (most graphics cards are saying 300-350W supply required).
Can anyone tell me what is the power supply to this model, and what would be a good graphics card model to look at to upgrade my graphics card to with this model? I believe the expansion slots are PCI-Express, but I'm not sure on the power supply so I can get the right graphics card.
Thanks!
Nathan

Quote
Originally posted by thegrommit
That 9100 doesn't even have a fan, correct? It should have no problem running on that motherboard with that PSU.
Also, the links in my sig may prove useful.
[edit] err, the 9100 is an integrated video chipset. Are you sure that's the correct number?
No the 9100 is not just an integrated video chipset and is available in both AGP & PCI form.
The Antec is a good PSU but I would recommend getting something better such as the OCZ or Enermax as they have a higher +12v rail amp.

MAC Pro 2.66 quad core Intel Xeon Power supply

Does any one perhaps know how many watts this MAC's power supply is ?
Can not find it anyware.
Thanks
Freddie

Thank you
Freddie

DV6 Power supply

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