DVD.app and Sonica Theater no sound
Hello,
I have a problem with the DVD.app and Sonica Theater USB 7.1 sound card.
I get sound through the USB sound card with every application, Quicktime, VLC (while playing DVDs also), iTunes...but I cannot get sound through the USB card when using the OS X DVD.app. I've checked the preferences out and I find nothing, only a check-box enabling/disabling Dolby Dynamics...I've checked/unchecked this with no changes.
Also, the DVD.app takes 3 launches for it to stay launched (I know this is a little off topic). This happens on my G4 as well as my G5 in 10.4.2, but it was happening in 10.4 as well.
The Sonica Theater is on a G5 running 10.4.2.
G5 Dual 2, G4 Dual 1.4 GHZ, iBook Graphite SE Mac OS X (10.4)
Resolved the issue...it was an Unsanity pane (Windowshade X) that was causing a conflict. I looked in the crash report log and saw a bunch of Unsanity things, and temporarily disabled them...through process of elimination I narrowed it down to Windowshade.
Thanks for all the replies...Oh yea, there were none.
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DVD-Audio and "can not detect sound blaster card" with Audigy2 Va
I recently purchased an "Audigy2 Value" card from an eBay user, because I recently purchased some DVD-Audio discs. I downloaded the Audigy2 drivers from the website, and the Creative MediaSource player. 5. Surround sound worked fine for me, though sometimes the driver would reset to the default 2/2. sound and I would have to re-select 5. sound, which was annoying.
Then I was completely unable to get the MediaSource player to recognise my DVD-Audio discs, and the EAX functionality of the player would never work. The EAX logo never appeared in the player. When I tried installing the MediaSource player from an install disc, I got the message "can not detect sound blaster card". Then I discovered the world of EEPROM problems.
I followed advice from some other threads, including using ScanPCI to get information on the card, which yielded the following result.
When installed on my machine (Asus A7A266 motherboard) the ScanPCI reads:
Vendor 02h Creative Labs
Device 0008h Unknown
Command 0005h (I/O Access, BusMaster)
Status 0290h (Has Capabilities List, Supports Back-To-Back Trans., Medium Timing)
Revision 00h, Header Type 00h, Bus Latency 20h
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Subsystem ID 0002h Unknown
Subsystem Vendor 02h Creative Labs
Address 0 is an I/O Port : 0000A800h
System IRQ 5, INT# A
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Power Management Capabilities
Supports power state D2
Supports power state D
Current Power State : D0 (Device fully-operational, no power saving)
On another machine (specs unknown, it's a "house pc") I got this (with 3 entries!):
Vendor 02h Creative Labs
Device 0002h EMU0K Audio Chipset (SB Li've!)
Command 0004h (BusMaster)
Status 0290h (Has Capabilities List, Supports Back-To-Back Trans., Medium Timing)
Revision 04h, Header Type 80h, Bus Latency 20h
Self test 00h (Self test not supported)
PCI Class Multimedia, type Audio
Subsystem ID 002002h CT4850 SBLi've! Value
Subsystem Vendor 02h Creative Labs
Address 0 is an I/O Port : 00009000h
New Capabilities List Information :
Power Management Capabilities
Current Power State : D0 (Device fully-operational, no power saving)
Vendor 02h Creative Labs
Device 7002h PCI Gameport Joystick
Command 0004h (BusMaster)
Status 0290h (Has Capabilities List, Supports Back-To-Back Trans., Medium Timing)
Revision 0h, Header Type 80h, Bus Latency 20h
Self test 00h (Self test not supported)
PCI Class Input, type Other
Subsystem ID 002002h PCI Gameport Joystick
Subsystem Vendor 02h Creative Labs
Address 0 is an I/O Port : 00008800h
New Capabilities List Information :
Power Management Capabilities
Current Power State : D0 (Device fully-operational, no power saving)
Vendor 02h Creative Labs
Device 0008h Unknown
Command 0004h (BusMaster)
Status 0290h (Has Capabilities List, Supports Back-To-Back Trans., Medium Timing)
Revision 00h, Header Type 00h, Bus Latency 20h
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PCI Class Multimedia, type Audio
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(Just a note: above you can clearly see that it does not say I have an Audigy, it thinks it is a SBLi've. Is this normal? The card IS an Audigy 2, it says so on the card.)
So, I put the card back on my own PC, thinking this has fixed my EEPROM, but I get the same as before. Subsystem ID 0002h. And of course the install software will not detect the card.
I realise that I could go back to using the web drivers, but this still leaves me with MediaSource not recognising the card and not enabling DVD-Audio or EAX, which is why I bought the card in the first place!
I have heard that the VIA chipset is possibly to blame for the EEPROM problems on the Audigy cards, and certainly it seems like it is not permanent, since it gave different information on the other PC. So now I am seriously considering getting a new motherboard.
Do other motherboards cause this same problem? I don't want to buy another board and get the same trouble. All I want is to be able to install my MediaSource and have it recognise my card so I can listen to my DVD-Audio discs.
Cheers,
Russ.Figured out my problem. Installing the drivers from the web to begin with was a bad idea. They just did not work properly with the card.
The "card not found" problem has gone as well, after installing it in another PC. I am also using the proper install disc now, as the other one I was using turned out to not be for the Audigy 2 value after all, but was an Audigy 2 install disc. That easily explains the "Card not found" error. The differing results from the ScanPCI program are still bizarre, though.
Thanks to all of the people on the forum who posted information in other threads to help me deal with this issue. For now I am sticking with the original drivers from the disc and I am not upgrading. -
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Have you got notifications muted ? Only notifications (including games) get muted, so the Music and Videos apps, and headphones, still get sound.
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THNXAssuming that you havn't turned the volume completely down, then have you got notifications muted ? Only notifications (including games) get muted, so the iPod and Videos apps, and headphones, still get sound.
Depending on what you've got Settings > General > Use Side Switch To set to (mute or rotation lock), then you can mute notifications by the switch on the right hand side of the iPad, or via the taskbar (and similarly for rotation lock) : double-click the home button; slide from the left; and it's the icon; press home again to exit the taskbar. The function that isn't on the side switch is set via the taskbar instead : http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4085 -
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Since it has always been very basic to backup your computer and all it's data, Apple provides no way for you to transfer music from your iPhone back to your computer. As you know, you can re-download all iTunes purchases, but music that you ripped yourself you'll have to just re-rip again.
You can try and find 3rd party applications that might help you. I'm sure you'll pay, however.
Let this be a very important lesson learned.
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Hello PearldiamondMD,
I was thinking of a few recommendations for you. I recommend our iPhone Troubleshooting Assistant found here http://www.apple.com/support/iphone/assistant/phone/#section_1. Start at section 1, if that doesnt fix it, then section 3, and if all else does not work, section 5. At section 3 I recommend closing ALL the apps.
Here is section 1 to get you started.
Restart iPhone
To restart iPhone, first turn iPhone off by pressing and holding the Sleep/Wake button until a red slider appears. Slide your finger across the slider and iPhone will turn off after a few moments.
Next, turn iPhone on by pressing and holding the Sleep/Wake button until the Apple logo appears.
Is iPhone not responding? To reset iPhone, press and hold the Sleep/Wake button and the Home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds, until the Apple logo appears.
If your device does not turn on or displays a red battery icon, try recharging next.
All the very best,
Sterling -
My alarm clock and other apps no longer play any sound. Ringer is still working and i can not find any settings that are turning off the sound. What could cause this?
I know for a fact apple doesn't want carriers fixing their phones. My carrier even warned me that they can't fix the phones only apple stores can fix them. Well guess what I just wasted my whole day by driving to an apple store they "fixed" my phone I got home and it started doing the same **** things they didn't fix **** now I have to waste even more time by finding a ups store to ship my phone to apple so that means I'm going to be out of a phone for over a week because they never fixed it or replaced it like they should have. I'm so upset with apple that if this new phone does the same things were dropping apple and are going to samsung. I wasted 4 hours driving and $40 in gas and 6 hours of my time for nothing. Apple needs to put in more store around the country if their not going to let the carriers fix the phones them selves.
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unable to get sound on my ipad unless I plug in earphones. I reset everything - sound is set to on. No changes have been made. Just no sound.
If you lose sounds for keyboard clicks, games or other apps, email notifications and other notifications, system sounds may have been muted.
System sounds can be muted and controlled two different ways. The screen lock rotation can be controlled in the same manner as well.
Settings>General>Use Side Switch to: Mute System sounds. If this option is selected, the switch on the side of the iPad above the volume rocker will mute system sounds.
If you choose Lock Screen Rotation, then the switch locks the screen. If the screen is locked, you will see a lock icon in the upper right corner next to the battery indicator gauge.
If you have the side switch set to lock screen rotation then the system sound control is in the task bar. Double tap the home button and in the task bar at the bottom, swipe all the way to the right. The speaker icon is all the way to the left. Tap on it and system sounds will return.
If you have the side switch set to mute system sounds, then the screen lock rotation can be accessed via the task bar in the same manner as described above.
This support article from Apple explains how the side switch works.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4085 -
I have lost my iPhone and it has stated that it is offline. I received an email that stated it went online and activated play a sound and lost mode. So I went into iPhone app and it says offline. Is there any way to find ?
Not unless it goes back online. If it was stolen it may have been restored, in which case it will never appear again in Find My iPhone.
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I have apps in my notification center on for notifications (like News apps), with banner and sounds, but i never get the notification from those apps. I tried reinstalling the app and restarting the phone but all in vain
The apps I currently have are for the i phone and i pad but i would like to see this on this computer
On the Mac Air launch iTunes. Then connect either the iPad or iPhone.
Select the iPad or iPhone under Devices left side of the iTunes window in the source list.
Then select Apps from the menu on the right.
If you don't see the apps listed there, from your iTunes menu bar (top of your screen), click Store > Authorize This Computer.
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I downloaded the piano keyboard app....will not work at all....the screen comes up but no a tigon when trying to use...also no sound.
Try a couple of basic troubleshooting steps,
Quit the app completely and restart the iPad. Go to the home screen first by tapping the home button. Double tap the home button and the task bar will appear with all of your recent/open apps displayed at the bottom. Tap and hold down on any app icon until it begins to wiggle. Tap the minus sign in the upper left corner of the app that you want to close. Tap the home button or anywhere above the task bar. Restart the iPad.
Restart the iPad by holding down on the sleep button until the red slider appears and then slide to shut off. To power up hold the sleep button until the Apple logo appears and let go of the button.
Reboot the iPad by holding down on the sleep and home buttons at the same time for about 10-15 seconds until the Apple Logo appears - ignore the red slider - let go of the buttons.
Delete the app and reinstall. You will not have to pay for it again as long as you use the same Apple ID that you bought it with. Hold down on the icon until it jiggles, then tap the X on the icon to delete the app. Tap the home button to stop the apps from jiggling. Go back to the App Store purchased tab and download the app again. -
My computer is running slowly and the DVD app quits on start up
Firefox and Facebook made my computer slow. It started with "Warning unresponsive script error, would you like to stop or continue" this happened all the time while looking at FB. Then it killed my iChat somehow. So while trying to fix iChat, it said in a forum, to delete your cache.... so I did and that made my comp. worse. Now I can't use DVD player or VLC player. They quit during start up. What can I do to fix it and get it back to playing DVD's? I can still use the internet but if I click on something it can take a long time to change tasks. Can I fix this myself or do I need to take it in?
You are certainly welcome!
Good job getting all of that information from your computer, as well! :-)
Now, all of those processes that you "delete" (quit/force quit) from activity monitor should automatically restore once you restart your computer. Before a restart, however, the lack of the quitted processes should speed your computer up a bit.
You said that your second login item was "swf desktop." .swf is a flash file (usually an animation). Do you have some software running that is giving you some sort of motionized desktop image? This is a HUGE CPU hog (I know from experience) and would greatly slow your computer down. I would recommend removing that item from your startup items list.
I am not entirely sure what all of your login items represent, however, I do know that by default from a fresh install of Mac OS X, none should be present. I would actually advise to remove all of those items from your login items folder, unless you know more information about the items. Note: If you want any changes to take effect after removing login items, you must restart your computer and log in.
Clearing your RAM does not involve deleting a single bit of information from your hard drive. To clear your RAM, shut down your PowerBook, disconnect the power adapter (piece of hardware that plugs into an outlet in your wall), pull out the PowerBook's battery (If you have an Aluminum PowerBook, grab a coin of currency and use it to turn the silver disk on the bottom of the computer near the battery to the unlock icon. If you have a Titanium PowerBook, slide the slider on the side of the battery to the right and the battery should "pop" up), and wait about 10 minutes for the PRAM battery inside of the PowerBook to drain, thus erasing all RAM contents and not the hard drive information.
It nothing seems to be helping you PowerBook, a hard drive whipe and resinstall may be the easiest route.
As for backing up your hard drive data, I am sorry you are having errors. There are many ways to get around it, though. One way would be to boot a live CD of Ubuntu Linux for PowerPC. To do this, download the .iso file from http://cdimage.ubuntu.com/ports/releases/8.04/release/ubuntu-8.04.1-desktop-powe rpc.iso. Once the download is finished, you'll need a blank CD to write the file to. To do this, open DiskUtility.app and drag the downloaded .iso file to the left-hand side of the Disk Utility window (where all volumes show up). Select the .iso file within Disk Utility and burn it to a disk. Once the process is complete, insert the CD into the CD-ROM drive of your PowerBook and shut it down. Once it shuts down, press the power button (top right) on your PowerBook and hold down the "C" key on your keyboard. This will tell the PowerBook to boot from watever volume is found in the CD-ROM drive (in this case, the Ubuntu Linux CD). You may be prompted to a black screen with some white text, giving you options on what to boot, as well as some information about your display. Do NOT install Ubuntu Linux, or else it will erase the contents of your hard drive. Choose the option that will allow for you to "live" boot the CD (run without installing). This will probably take a good few minutes to boot. In the event that your display does not work properly, restart, boot from the CD, but use the command where it talks about getting your display to work properly. Once you successfully boot Ubuntu Linux, click on "Places" (top left-hand corner of the desktop) and select your internal hard drive (Macintosh HD, or whatever you named the partition). You can then plug in your external hard drive, and select it from "Places" as well. With the two windows open, drag the wanted files from your PowerBook's hard drive window to the external hard drive's window in order to copy the files. Once the transfer is complete, restart your PowerBook. You shouldn't have to hold any keys down to get it to boot back up into Mac OS X but if it doesn't boot, hold down the option key on your keyboard and select your PowerBook's internal hard drive. Make sure that your files were successfully backed up before you do a reinstallation of Mac OS X.
There are also simpler ways to back up your documents, keeping in mind that you don't HAVE to back up your documents to your external hard drive. You said (I belive) that you could still send email from your PowerBook. Can you just attach important files (possibly indvidual files at a time) and email them to yourself, which would allow you to log onto your other (properly-working) computer and download the files to it's internal hard drive? This could take quite awhile and certainly a last resort.
Another, more-easier and effecient way, in my opinion, would be to transfer the files over your home network to your other working computer (your newly-purchased MacBook Pro). To do this, on your PowerBook, open system preferences, click the "Sharing" icon, and check the box that enables file sharing.
Now, on your MacBook Pro on the same network, conect to your PowerBook over the network. This can be done by (on your MacBook Pro) clicking on the Finder icon (bottom left corner of your computer screen (left-most icon in the Dock)), clicking "Finder" (top of screen in the task bar) and "Preferences." Once the Preferences window is opened, click on the "Sidebar" tab. Check the box that will show "Computer" in the left-hand side of any finder window. Close the preferences window. Click on your computer's name at the top right-hand side of your Finder window. Double click on the "Network" icon (a blue/purple sphere). Double click on your PowerBook's icon. You will most-likely be prompted to enter in some information (username and password). Enter in the proper requested information, and the contents of your PowerBook's hard drive should display in the finder window. Click-and-drag the wanted files from your PowerBook's window to a location on your MacBook Pro's hard drive. Depending on the size of the files and your Wi-Fi router speed, this could take some time. In the event that you are not using a Wi-Fi connection on a home network, let me know, and I will give other options that will allow you to do computer-to-computer file sharing (such as with an ethernet or firewire cable).
This stuff certainly takes time... One might suggest to free up a day with nothing going on to really get things done. Don't get frustrated, as I'm here to help and am fully confident that we'll get this all figured out! :-)
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