DVD/Lightscribe drive for new (late 2010 Mac Pro?
Does anyone know a source for an internal DVD w/ Lightscribe drive for a late 2010 Mac Pro? I want to install it in the second drive bay. I got one from OWC, but the depth of the DVD drawer was about twice that of the original drive that came with the Mac Pro. It would have been able to fit through the drop cover on the front of the Pro, but would not clear the internal rack components. It fit in the rack nicely with the 4 screws lining up properly, but would then not open more than about an eighth of an inch before hitting the internal rack frame, causing it to close. Thanks.
Bummer! The instructions included with the drive did not mention thi. When I called OWC customer service she said that sometimes you had to remove the bezel from the Mac. I told her the Pro had no bezel. She said that the drive info did not specifically say it would fit a 2010 Pro a d gave me a RMA.'nmh bad for not questioning further. Thanks.
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How to use and troubleshoot FireWire target disk mode - Apple Support
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What ARE those clips?
Read Bill Hunt on a file type as WRAPPER http://forums.adobe.com/thread/440037?tstart=0
What is a CODEC... a Primer http://forums.adobe.com/thread/546811?tstart=0
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Best USB CD/DVD 'Superdrive' drive for new iMac
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Having seen the likes of LaCie, Western Digital and Seagate mentioned, I'd appreciate comments/recommendations before I go ahead and buy a new iMac - along with an external Apple? or third party? drive.The new iMacs use USB 3.0 speeds, now.
I would look for an optical drive that uses the new USB 3 connections.
This will be a very fast drive.
If you can't find an optical drive with USB 3.0, then look for a drive that uses FireWire 400/800 and use an Apple FireWire to Thunderbolt adapter to connect the drive.
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Here is one such drive.
http://eshop.macsales.com/item/OWC/MRF82SD24S/
And the Apple adapter.
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Now that I've had time to stew over your comments. I do appreciate what you are saying however there should be another way to remedy this problem without having to purchase anything (ie in the software or an update, new version from apple). I ran a recording studio for Several years. I also did put a lot of thought and research into purchasing my Setup and had many compliments on the sound quality. What I'm saying is that Logic 9 should have no problem functioning on my computer. I think mac has made a poor product. I bet if I purchased the Pro Tools equivalent to Logic 9 that i could record 24 channels till the cows come home and get no errors. What I need to know is if there is something that I havent tried in my settings or software that can fix this. I think 6 gigs of Ram should be more than enough to work with. Here is what Apple has to say:
Minimum System Requirements
2GB of RAM (4GB recommended).
Display with 1280-by-768 resolution or higher.
OS X v10.6.8 or later.
Minimum 3.4GB of disk space. (19GB of optional content available via in-app download).
So why should I have to purchase any Ram when it's supposed to work on only 3.4 gigs?... That's why your answer frustrated me. I meant no personal insult. I just think there has to be a better answer out there. I do appreciate your input though . -
How do I scan jump drive for virus on a Mac Pro?
How do I scan a jump drive for a virus on a Macbook Pro?
Kat52 wrote:
Does a new Macbook Pro come with a virus program?
OS X already includes everything it needs to protect itself from viruses and malware. Keep it that way with software updates from Apple. Robust anti-virus and anti-malware protections have been integrated in OS X since its inception, and have only improved in the many years since then. Mavericks represents the beneficiary of all that experience. There is no separate program to install, but there are features you can use and practices you can observe to customize or augment those protections:
OS X Mavericks: Protect your Mac
OS X Mavericks: Protect your Mac from malware
OS X Mavericks: Keep your information safe
OS X About Gatekeeper
About file quarantine in OS X
If you install Windows on your Mac using Boot Camp or virtualization software, Windows requires its own anti-virus measures. That's nothing new.
The following principles are intended specifically for OS X but can be adapted for any operating system or device.
Never install any product that claims to "speed up", "clean up", "optimize", or "accelerate" your Mac. Without exception, they will do the opposite.
Never install pirated or "cracked" software, software obtained from dubious websites, or other questionable sources. Illegally obtained software is almost certain to contain malware.
Don’t supply your password in response to a popup window requesting it, unless you know what it is and the reason your credentials are required.
Don’t open email attachments from email addresses that you do not recognize, or click links contained in an email:
Most of these are scams that direct you to fraudulent sites that attempt to convince you to disclose personal information.
Such "phishing" attempts are the 21st century equivalent of a social exploit that has existed since the dawn of civilization. Don’t fall for it.
Apple will never ask you to reveal personal information in an email. If you receive an unexpected email from Apple saying your account will be closed unless you take immediate action, just ignore it. If your iTunes or App Store account becomes disabled for valid reasons, you will know when you try to buy something or log in to this support site, and are unable to.
Don’t install browser extensions unless you understand their purpose. Go to the Safari menu > Preferences > Extensions. If you see any extensions that you do not recognize or understand, simply click the Uninstall button and they will be gone.
Don’t install Java unless you are certain that you need it:
Java, a non-Apple product, is a potential vector for malware. If you are required to use Java, be mindful of that possibility.
Java can be disabled in System Preferences.
Despite its name JavaScript is unrelated to Java. No malware can infect your Mac through JavaScript. It’s OK to leave it enabled.
Block browser popups: Safari menu > Preferences > Security > and check "Block popup windows":
Popup windows are useful and required for some websites, but popups have devolved to become a common means to deliver targeted advertising that you probably do not want.
Popups themselves cannot infect your Mac, but many contain resource-hungry code that will slow down Internet browsing.
If you ever see a popup indicating it detected registry errors, that your Mac is infected with some ick, or that you won some prize, it is 100% fraudulent. Ignore it.
Ignore hyperventilating popular media outlets that thrive by promoting fear and discord with entertainment products arrogantly presented as "news". Learn what real threats actually exist and how to arm yourself against them:
The most serious threat to your data security is phishing. To date, most of these attempts have been pathetic and are easily recognized, but that is likely to change in the future as criminals become more clever.
OS X viruses do not exist, but intentionally malicious or poorly written code, created by either nefarious or inept individuals, is nothing new.
Never install something without first knowing what it is, what it does, how it works, and how to get rid of it when you don’t want it any more.
If you elect to use "anti-virus" software, familiarize yourself with its limitations and potential to cause adverse effects, and apply the principle immediately preceding this one.
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Need advice re: Lightscribe drive that will work in Mac Pro
I have the stock superdrive in my Mac Pro upper slot. I had a three year old LaCie 16x Lightscribe Drive that I took from my G5 and installed it in the lower slot. I could not get the MacPro to recognize it. I triple checked the cable connects, tried Cable Select and Slave jumper settings, installed the latest LaCie system extensions for the drive, but it still will not recognize it. It does not show up in Disk Utility or anywhere else.
So.... I bought the Lite-On DH-20A4H08C drive from Amazon. Put it in (Cable Select) mode, and the Mac Pro recognized it right away. The problem is that the tray in the Lite-On drive sits too low in the chassis, and when ejecting, it catches on the drive door of the Mac Pro - sometimes it can get out all the way under it's own power, sometimes I have to pull it out. It retracts pretty much OK. I'm not into the stress that this misaligned drive is putting on components, so I plan to return it.
Can anyone recommend an IDE Lightscribe Drive that will work in the Mac Pro and where the tray will eject nicely through the seemingly slimmed drive doors on the Mac Pro? If not IDE, can I use a SATA Lightscribe Drive? I understand there are two SATA ports on the motherboard beneath the back of the optical drive enclosure.
Looking for some positive experiences here please?
thx -bWell, I found the fix! I ditched the Lite-On and continued fiddling with my better fitting LaCie drive and I found that the LaCie drive has to be in the upper bay (i.e. first in the chain) for it to work. The SuperDrive had to be moved to the lower bay (last on the chain). I have no idea why this is, but swapping positions causes the LaCie drive to be invisible to the Mac Pro. Of course, both drives are set to Cable Select. Even LaCie tech support (which was very responsive BTW) were scratching their heads.
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Late '06 Mac Pro w/ Leopard Shutdown & Sleep Problems
I recently did a clean install of Leopard on a brand new hard drive for my Late '06 Mac Pro. I currently have all updates installed, and the system is running very fast and very stable. But!
I've been experiencing two problems over the week I've had Leopard installed, and I would just like to know if other MP users are sharing these as well...
1. Half the time I wake the computer from sleep, the fans blast off for about 10 seconds before the desktop is shown. Sometimes when the computer goes to sleep, via Energy Saver, my hard drives keep spinning.
2. Shut down takes an excruciatingly long time. My typical shut down lasts around a minute to a minute and a half.
I've read around and have seen a few problems like this, but I want to know if there are a larger majority of people with a Mac Pro who are experiencing either of these in Leopard.
It's not such a nuisance, being I don't have to wait for shut down and I can wait around a few seconds when waking up the computer. Though, here's to hoping 10.5.3 or a firmware update can fix these two issues!
Message was edited by: Anthony Jr.I had re-start from sleep problems on my '06 MP. Root cause was NG ram. Replaced wit hApple ram from OWC.com and it fixed the issue. That ram caused other issue such as frequent spinning beachball and just the feel was not right.
What can you try? i'd suspect ram but first any attached devices such as a 7 port Belkin USB hub which messed with deep sleep on mine and was replaced with a CyberPower USB hub.
Also do a smc power manager reset. Just unplu everything and wait a few mins the attach Apple keyboard and mouse power up and see what happens. One thing at a time. -
Apologies if this is going over old ground.
I'm finally ready to upgrade/replace for Power Mac G5. It's been a loyal and reliable servant (apart from a blown graphics card this year) for 7 years, but it's time to retire.
I mainly use FCP & DVDSP with HD footage and increasingly Motion to produce short promos and corporate videos.
Although, my G5 does the job - it's now very slow rendering HD footage and Motion is almost a non-starter. Running concurrent applications is a painful and nosy experience.
So to new investment. With the obvious upgrading limitations of an imac, how long will it last before needing another upgrade? I'd be happy with 4 years
Or is the added expandability of a Mac Pro worth the extra cash?
I dare say either will blow me away at first.
imac
2.7GHz Quad-Core Intel Core i5
4GB 1333MHz DDR3 SDRAM - 2x2GB
1TB Serial ATA Drive
AMD Radeon HD 6770M 512MB GDDR5
£1399 incl vat
mac pro
One 2.8GHz Quad-Core Intel Xeon “Nehalem”
3 GB (3 x 1 GB)
1TB 7200-rpm Serial ATA 3Gb/s hard drive
ATI Radeon HD 5770 1GB
One 18x SuperDrive
£2041 incl vat
(Obviously also need a good monitor)
Ae there benchmark tests available to compare these two machines?
What say others in a similar position? Which would you go for?New iMac has Thunderbolt, so you'll be able to edit from super fast Thuderbolt drives then they start shipping in about 3 more months. For now you're stuck with FW800 drives which really aren't ideal for HD work. But don't expect Thunderbolt drives to be cheap, not nearly as cheap as internal SATA drives for a tower.
Mac Pro allows you to install better, more powerful grahics cards that will let Motion, Color (and soon FCP X) run better, and you can get more CPU cores (which will impact FCP X, and the next version of FCStudio in beta testing). You'll also be able to add much less expesive internal drives (2TB for not much), which will be fast enough for working with FCS apps.
Either way, you want the most number of CPU cores, fastest CPUs, 8GB RAM, and two 7200rpm drives. You need a second drive as your scratch drive for sure. Best graphics card you can afford.
While I was at NAB, a few companies said they were looking into developing a Thuderbolt PCI card for the current Mac Pro towers. But I'm sure those will be some time before we see them.
Hint, don't get RAM and drives from Apple, go to OtherWorldComputing (.com) and get them much cheaper. Super easy to install, and they'll give you clear directions for doing so. Top notch customer support, also. -
What is the best and reasonably priced external cd/dvd optical drive for an Imac 21.5 inches from late 2009?
A lot of people have a Mac where the superdrive has been taken out to be replaced with a harddisk. Try to find a friend who has done that, give him a beer and take the superdrive, then buy a superdrive container from OWC or another for afew dollars and put it in there. This slimdrive container has a USB connector. There you go.
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Where can I buy a larger hard drive for my late 2008, 15" macbook pro? From reviewing questions and answers on the support community it would appear that having Apple remove the old and install the new hard drive is recommended. But how/where?
Welcome to Apple Support Communities
You can install the new hard disk yourself if you want to. You just need a 2'5" SATA II hard drive, which is compatible with your MacBook Pro. You can buy one at OWC > http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/hard-drives/2.5-Notebook/ You can filter hard drives by computer, so press a "Click to view all...", choose your computer in the sidebar and it will give you the compatible hard drives.
There are different brands for the MacBook Pro. The most recommended are HGST and Seagate, which have good reputation. A 7200 rpm hard drive will give you extra performance -
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You can get Mavericks from the App Store. Before you run the installer, copy (copy, not move) the whole "Install Mavericks" download to a backup location so that you can install it again if necessary. The installer in the Applications Folder will be deleted after installation is complete, so a copy is needed. -
2010 Mac Pro with Apple RAID card - "Drive carrier 00:03 removed"
I've got a 2010 Mac Pro with the Apple RAID card and 4 internal identical Seagate ST32000641AS 2TB drives inside.
I've never had a problem with the RAID card (either battery or in operation) except for one thing:
Almost every time I shut the machine down (which I try to do as rarely as possible), it keeps losing Drive 3, the spare.
(See RAID Utility event log snippet below.)
[I wish I could understand why this Apple RAID card keeps losing the spare across power-cycles/reboots, but I digress.]
So I just adopted it as the spare and it spawns the rebuild and many hours later, everything's fine again.
... until the last time I rebooted (Jan. 2nd).
After the usual "I lost the spare" message upon login, it began the rebuild.
But this time, about 11 1/2 hours later the rebuild stopped and RAID Utility reported "Drive carrier 00:03 removed".
Bay 3 is now missing in the Controller view.
I powered off the system last night, and left it off overnight. Today I took all the drives out, blew the dust off and reseated them.
Same thing. Drive 3 is still missing, and now the rebuild task aborted.
The drive bay location shouldn't matter, right? Can I swap the Bay 3 drive with the Bay 4 drive?
I figure one of two things would happen:
(1) It will report Bay 3 as being there but Bay 4 as being missing, same situation as is now. Meaning the problem is in the Bay 3 spare drive.
(2) It will report Bay 3 as being missing (despite a 'good' drive being present) and Bay 4 will be the (unattached) spare, and the RAID set will be unviable. Meaning the problem is with the drive bay itself, not whatever drive is plugged into it.
If "Drive carrier removed" is trying to tell me the disk is bad, why do I not see any log messages about it? I suppose a spare that never gets used could go bad from lack of use, but ... no messages at all?
Hesitant to plunk down $160 on a new spare disk if the present one isn't actually dead ...
% sudo raidutil list raidsetinfo
Total Avail
Raidsets Type Drives Size Size Comments
RS1 RAID 5 1,2,4 5.23TB 0.00MB Rebuild: 0% complete
% sudo raidutil list driveinfo
Drives Raidset Size Flags
Bay #1 RS1 2.00TB IsMemberOfRAIDSet:RS1 IsReliable
Bay #2 RS1 2.00TB IsMemberOfRAIDSet:RS1 IsReliable
Bay #4 RS1 2.00TB IsMemberOfRAIDSet:RS1 IsReliable
Event log snippet:
Saturday, January 11, 2014 8:15:19 AM PT
Background task aborted: Task=Rebuild,Scope=DRVGRP,Group=RS1
informational
Friday, January 3, 2014 3:50:28 AM PT
Drive carrier 00:03 removed
informational
Thursday, January 2, 2014 4:29:37 PM PT
Marked drive in bay 3 as a global spare
informational
Thursday, January 2, 2014 4:29:28 PM PT
Adopted drive in bay 3
informational
Thursday, January 2, 2014 4:28:34 PM PT
Degraded RAID set RS1 - No spare available for rebuild
critical
Saturday, December 7, 2013 5:35:17 PM PT
Marked drive in bay 3 as a global spare
informational
Saturday, December 7, 2013 5:35:08 PM PT
Adopted drive in bay 3
informational
Saturday, December 7, 2013 5:34:11 PM PT
The "RedundancyScrub" command could not be executed. (Invalid request or invalid parameter in the request.)
warning
Saturday, December 7, 2013 5:34:03 PM PT
Degraded RAID set RS1 - No spare available for rebuild
critical
Friday, December 6, 2013 4:56:47 AM PT
Battery finished conditioning
informational
Thursday, December 5, 2013 9:53:44 PM PT
Battery started scheduled conditioning cycle (write cache disabled)
informational
Friday, September 6, 2013 10:53:11 PM PT
Battery finished conditioning
informational
Friday, September 6, 2013 3:41:33 PM PT
Battery started scheduled conditioning cycle (write cache disabled)
informational
Saturday, June 8, 2013 3:41:35 PM PT
Battery finished conditioning
informational
Saturday, June 8, 2013 8:37:49 AM PT
Battery started scheduled conditioning cycle (write cache disabled)
informational
Thursday, May 30, 2013 4:09:51 PM PT
Marked drive in bay 3 as a global spare
informational
Thursday, May 30, 2013 4:09:42 PM PT
Adopted drive in bay 3
informational
Thursday, May 30, 2013 4:08:59 PM PT
Degraded RAID set RS1 - No spare available for rebuild
critical
Thursday, May 30, 2013 3:32:29 PM PT
Degraded RAID set RS1
warningPower Pig wrote:
"Hesitant to plunk down $160 on a new spare disk if the present one isn't actually dead ...
% sudo raidutil list raidsetinfo
Total Avail
Raidsets Type Drives Size Size Comments
RS1 RAID 5 1,2,4 5.23TB 0.00MB Rebuild: 0% complete
I was talking about this.
This looks like a RAID 5 setup without the parity to me. I would said it basically a RAID 0.
Also you metioned "I guess that previous spare must really have gone 'bad', despite having never been used! "
I wiped everything out, I selected the 3 disks and clicked on "Create RAID Set" with RAID5 selected and the "Use unassigned drives as spares" option checked. The 3rd disk has always been marked as the spare ever since then. You do not have a choice to create a "RAID5 setup without the parity". If I wanted a RAID0 I would have chosen a RAID0! raidutil now says
% sudo raidutil list raidsetinfo
Total Avail
Raidsets Type Drives Size Size Comments
RS1 RAID 5 1,2,3,4 5.23TB 0.00MB No tasks running
Every time the system would 'lose' Drive 3 on boot, I would just keep rebooting until it was 'found', and then manually re-assign the now-'floating' drive as the spare - and the RAID would rebuild.
There was never a problem until the day that prompted this post - when it would not find Drive 3 no matter what I did. I turned the Mac Pro off for several hours until the drives had all cooled down and it still did not find the drive. I left the machine on but unmounted the degraded volume until I got the new replacement drive.
I really don't understand what you are getting at. It's like you are trying to tell me I set it up as a 4-drive RAID5 with no parity(!) and that I was in grave danger because one of the disks was gone. The actual RAID contents (spread across Drives 1, 2 and 4) were never in danger, unless a 2nd disk had failed while the spare was not seen by the Apple RAID card. I wasn't too worried about that happening.
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