DVD-R no Worky - I am in Coaster City

I am in Coaster City here, as my brand new Quad G5's DVD-R drive seems to be defective. Almost all the discs I burn are bad, either giving errors along the way or on verification. Burning in Toast (7.0.1) or Finder, or changing burn speed, makes no difference. Using silver generic media or white coated makes no difference, even though these have always worked fine for me in the past. Macs need to be more reliable than this. I am too busy with this machine, a production machine, to return it.
Has anyone found a fix for this?

Just try some branded disks like Verbatim or TDK.

Similar Messages

Why does my dvd drive spit out disk

I'm trying to burn a video and when I insert a blank dvd-r it sounds like it's reading it and then spits it out.

Hi s,
Mac SuperDrives are very picky about what they'll eat. Try a different brand of DVD. I've never had a coaster or a problem with gold colored Maxells. You can also try cleaning the drive.
You could purchase a CD/DVD drive cleaning kit, or you can try with materials you may already have on hand. Use a credit card, or something similar, and wrap it with an LCD cleaning cloth type product (basically a thin micro-fiber type cloth). Gently slide the "cleaner" in and out a few times in the left side of the optical drive opening. Make sure you can hold onto the cloth so it doesn't get stuck inside the drive. This cleans the lens, which may be all you need.

IPhone5 switches to west coast time from Chicago time every day it is set on automatic

iPhone5 switches to west coast time from Chicago time. Settings are automatic. Have 2 phones and both switch times

Rbentley01 wrote:
iPhone5 switches to west coast time from Chicago time.
I'm not sure what the desired result is ... are you on the west coast?
I'll assume Chicago time is incorrect and west coast time is what you want.
Try this: Go to Seetings > General > Date & Time and do these two things:
1. Turn "Set Automatically" off. Then set "Time Zone" right below it to a west coast city, say, Cupertino. If the time is shown incorrectly, do "Set Date and Time" and correct it
2. Turn "Set Automatically" back on.
If these steps don't correct it, contact your cellular carrier, as setting time automatically is in their hands.

Can someone please answer this question!! re: bootcamp 3.0 from dvd

does anyone know if bootcamp 3.0 drivers are the same on all OEM DVD's?
the reason i'm asking is because i had to do a bootcamp install for a friend on her macbook late 2009 and she didn't give me her dvd, so i pulled bootcamp 3.0 off of my macbook pro (mid 2009) install dvd. i've done the 3.1 64 bit update as well, and manually installed some drivers to get the sound and network adapter working.
i know supposedly the dvd's are machine specific, and i know that with windows 7 x64 there are lots of outdated drivers, and i know the two machines have some hardware differences...
but it also looks like bootcamp 3.0 has bundled all kinds of extra drivers just in case, so it's hard to tell if each dvd has it's own bootcamp 3.0 that's machine-specific.
reason i'm asking is that after all the hacks and workarounds, i've got windows 7 x64 basically running ok on this macbook unibody white, but it doesn't seem to work as perfectly as a similar install i did on a macbook pro 15". for example, the trackpad...i don't have functionality for expose for example like i do on the mbp 15. and no headphone audio.
so i'm wondering if i'm missing some machine specific drivers from my friend's dvd that are not on my MBP dvd..., even though both show "bootcamp 3.0"
thanks.

yes, but my point is if they updated Bootcamp on a newer DVD, would it still be called Bootcamp 3.0??
i'm using my mid 2009 MBP dvd to install Bootcamp 3.0 on a late 2009 white macbook because my friend never gave me her dvd and she lives half way across the city (13 million people).
i'm not into hacking things, but i haven't seen a single post in this forum where anyone successfully installed Bootcamp with Windows 7 x64 on any machine without having to screw around with drivers to get sound or network adapter working.
i've posted several questions regarding various things without getting much of an answer.
i've done many bootcamp installs that seem to function perfectly, but for some reason this one is giving me problems (windows 7 x64 on a white macbook).
i'm asking general questions now because i suspect maybe the initial windows bootcamp 3.0 install (with subsequent 3.1 update) isn't giving me all the drivers i need.
i can't confirm this 100%, but i'm still without headphone sound and some other things seem to me a little off. NOBODY that i know of has gotten the correct sound driver from the dvd to work with windows 7, everyone seems to have to install something newer...and from what i've read, the 3.1 update doesn't solve everyone's problems.
that's why i'm wondering about the specifics of the dvd. if her OEM dvd and her version of bootcamp 3.0 is what's needed from the start, i won't proceed any further and do a complete mac os x and bootcamp clean install from scratch as soon as i get her dvd, but i'm not sure if it will make a difference or not.
thanks.

Burning coasters about 50% of the time recently

Anyone else having this problem? As far as I can tell it took place at the same time as the 2.6.19 upgrade and the switch to cdrkit. My IDE dvd-rw drive is loaded as sr0/sg0 as I understand it should be after 2.6.19, and all of the required modules are loaded (sg and sr_mod - correct?) Running wodim -scanbus, things look fine. Here's the relevant error dump of a recent failure in k3b:
System
K3b Version: 0.12.17
KDE Version: 3.5.5
QT Version: 3.3.6
Kernel: 2.6.19-ARCH
Devices
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-4163B A104 (/dev/sr0, /dev/sg0) at [CD-R; CD-RW; CD-ROM; DVD-ROM; DVD-RAM; DVD-R; DVD-RW; DVD+R; DVD+RW; DVD+R DL] [DVD-ROM; DVD-R Sequential; DVD-RAM; DVD-RW Restricted Overwrite; DVD-RW Sequential; DVD+RW; DVD+R; DVD+R Double Layer; CD-ROM; CD-R; CD-RW] [SAO; TAO; RAW; SAO/R96P; SAO/R96R; RAW/R16; RAW/R96P; RAW/R96R; Restricted Overwrite]
K3b
Size of filesystem calculated: 2126059
Used versions
growisofs: 7.0
growisofs
Executing 'builtin_dd if=/dev/fd/0 of=/dev/sr0 obs=32k seek=0'
/dev/sr0: "Current Write Speed" is 16.4x1352KBps.
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 455:50 RBU 100.0% UBU 2.9%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 651:11 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 846:33 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 1107:02 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 1302:23 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 1562:52 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 1758:14 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 1953:35 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 2214:04 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 2409:26 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 2604:47 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 2865:16 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 3060:38 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 3255:59 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 3516:28 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 3711:50 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
1114112/4354168832 ( 0.0%) @0.0x, remaining 3907:11 RBU 100.0% UBU 100.0%
:-[ WRITE@LBA=220h failed with SK=0h/ASC=00h/ACQ=03h]: Input/output error
:-( write failed: Input/output error
/dev/sr0: flushing cache
:-[ SYNCHRONOUS FLUSH CACHE failed with SK=4h/ASC=A0h/ACQ=80h]: Input/output error
I'm also seeing the following in messages.log:
Dec 17 17:07:48 pinkwater ata1: soft resetting port
Dec 17 17:07:48 pinkwater ata1.00: configured for UDMA/33
Dec 17 17:07:48 pinkwater ata1: EH complete
Not sure if that's standard or not, but I don't recall ever seeing it before.

I'm starting to think this is definitely a bug and not flaky media. I've seen postings on LKML about people having problems with similar issues, though not specifically the same. I added "earlymodules=piix" to my kernel options, and this changed my drive back to /dev/hda. I then burned a couple disks in a row w/o any problems, but then encountered this issue:
Dec 17 22:57:30 pinkwater ide: failed opcode was: unknown
Dec 17 22:57:32 pinkwater hda: status error: status=0x58 { DriveReady SeekComplete DataRequest }
Dec 17 22:57:32 pinkwater ide: failed opcode was: unknown
Dec 17 22:57:32 pinkwater hda: status error: status=0x58 { DriveReady SeekComplete DataRequest }
Dec 17 22:57:32 pinkwater ide: failed opcode was: unknown
Dec 17 22:57:32 pinkwater hda: status error: status=0x58 { DriveReady SeekComplete DataRequest }
Dec 17 22:57:32 pinkwater ide: failed opcode was: unknown
Dec 17 22:57:32 pinkwater hda: status error: status=0x58 { DriveReady SeekComplete DataRequest }
Dec 17 22:57:32 pinkwater ide: failed opcode was: unknown
Dec 17 22:57:32 pinkwater hda: status error: status=0x58 { DriveReady SeekComplete DataRequest }
Dec 17 22:57:32 pinkwater ide: failed opcode was: unknown
...snip...
During this, K3B was reporting zero FIFO buffer but finished burning the disk like it was good, and even reported success. My DVD drive was basically spinning full speed, and showed no signs of stopping - I let it run for nearly 5 min. I could not eject the media ,even as root, and eventually had to reboot the box.
My mobo has an ICH7 chipset that I've never been able to get to boot while using AHCI, so I've been using IDE mode. I have one SATA drive on the on-board controller, and one IDE drive (my DVD-RW) - I also have a 3ware 9xxx card with a raid5 setup in a PCI-X slot. Prior to recent changes, I've had the occasional hiccup, but this is the first time I've actually been killing discs (the discs all claim to still be empty after a failed burn, but they have been hit at least briefly with a laser, and even trying to multisession on these discs will fail. Coaster city.)
I guess I'll keep googling.

Too Afraid To Upgrade!

So what's the deal with all of these Apple commercials about how, +"it just works,"+ when I read endless posts about how Leopard seems to be bottoming out a whole bunch of savvy Mac users with the latest hardware to boot (pun intended)?
I mean the poor Vista guy getting castigated by the pretty OS guru while Mr. Leopard (Drew Barrymore's boyfriend) there is just cruising along with no mention about all of the incompatibilities and other issues that seem to be plaguing Mac user after Mac user after running the upgrade, is just the latest disavowal by the Apple marketing people of some real problems that are going on with this latest release.
Don't get me wrong, I'm all for creative marketing campaigns and Apple has some of the best, starting with the 1984 Orwellian commercial that started the whole phenomenon. But after reading post after post about how Leopard is causing all kinds of problems -- especially with users who have similar hardware as mine -- I'm left with a sense of being: Too Afraid To Upgrade.
I purchased a retail copy of Leopard just after it came out in Nov. of '07, and was expecting to throw on the upgrade like I've done in the past (both client and server versions) and watch it do its thing and get rolling with a new and improved "hot" OS on my bad a*s MacBook Pro. And like a diligent former UNIX Sys Admin and a former member of the Apple Consultants Network, I did a lot of reading up first before the upgrade was to commence and that's what stopped me "butt cold."
I mean when you're reading things like the user accounts no longer have administrative permissions after the upgrade, or the built-in Airport stops working with 802.11g wireless networks, or all kinds of software including Parallels (which is what I've got running on my system) tank or stop functioning, and let's not forget peripherals stop working after the we come up to Leopard, that's just freaks me out.
Also, all of the extraneous ways proposed by very learned users on how to upgrade that involve the old archive and install, clean install, or even the more radical target disk install, seem to me to *totally defeat* the "it just works" slogan and years of simple and easy upgrades that I've been doing since System 7.6! Even going from 9.2.2 to OS X was a snap on my old G4 500MHz AGP Sawtooth. Actually, I've thrown a number of upgrades and wacky configurations on that system including bumping it up to OS X Panther Server which runs just fine (except for the known USB 2.0 upgrade card/sleep issue that is intermittent and I've learned to live with).
So why is Leopard totally "off the rails" here? And more importantly for me, what the h*ll do I do now?
I really don't want to go the archive and install route because that would entail reinstalling a ton of my software (fully licensed), and trying to get Windows XP/Parallels back on there and hope the Microsoft activation protection doesn't kill my reinstall. Also, I really don't have the darn time to spend a whole weekend trying to get both mine and my wife's user accounts back to the same state as they were with Tiger before the upgrade. Sure backing up is fine with me and I'm hoping that Apple's backup software will do the trick, but going the +"whole nine yards"+ with the thing seems a little too excessive for me; I'm not that 30 year old Mac guru I used to be, I'm in my forties now and I just want the thing to work, you know? Which is why I'm all about Apple and the Mac to begin with.
So are there any success stories out there? Or is Justin Long and Steve Jobs pulling my leg?
My other question is, if I go "commando" and say "forget it" and just slap on that upgrade, and then attempt to pump it up from 10.5.0 (which is the retail DVD that I got, like most people) to 10.5.2, am I just fooling myself into thinking that all will be well and when the computer restarts I won't get the evil WINDOWS Blue Screen Of Death?
What should I do? Just wait for 10.5.3? or, wait for OS X Lion (if that's what they're going to call it)? Should I just use the DVD of 10.5.0 for a coaster? Should I let the geniuses at the Apple Store handle this one for me at a cost that I shouldn't have to pay over and above buying the software? I've been in the Mac game for many years and always come to this discussion board first when I need answers and I usually find them (and have given a few of my own); however, this time I'm at a total loss and am +stopped dead in my tracks+ before I've even begun.
_You all scared me!_
I need some reassurance that upgrading to Leopard is worth it and that I can do it without having to rebuild my whole system.
As Pink Floyd once said, "is there anybody out there?"
Thanks a bunch,
Nick from Boston

Nick, I see you're running OS X 10.4.11. Working OK for you I assume? Try going back at least a year in the forum posts and you will see the very same posts about the very same problems in the version of OS X you are running now. Go back farther and you will the very same posts about the very same issues for EVERY version of OS X that was ever released. Some people have issues with anything they attempt to do and they post here about it for help. Think about it for a second. If Leopard were really "off the rails" you wouldn't be able to login to this forum because it would be overloaded.
Apple's commercials are indeed correct. Macs "just work" for 99% of users. You know all the voodoo people post abut here? Repair permissions, don't do an upgrade, do an archive/install instead, do this, don't do that? Most of it is pure baloney. My Mac shipped with OS X 10.3.6 in 2004 and I have applied every single update, every patch, every security update since then. I installed OS X 10.4 Tiger right over the top of 10.3 with no issues what-so-ever and have applied all patched and updates since then. This past weekend I installed OS X 10.5 right over the top of 10.3 and 10.4. Then I applied ALL of the updates since then in one massive Software Update session. I came up on a fully patched Leopard installation without ANY issues. I can even type upper case letters in Google Mail (which some people claim was broken by the latest security update. It wasn't).
Luck? Not hardly. Those of us who seem never to have many problems or issues have several things in common. We know precisely what we have installed on our systems at all times. We tend to stay away from most of the little add-on "thingies" that are supposed to enhance OS X because we know they almost always break when a new update comes out. And most importantly we do our homework before applying any update. We check to make sure our hardware and software is in absolutely perfect condition. We make backups. We check with third party developers.
Yes, if you took to heart all the wailing and gnashing of teeth around here you'd be afraid to update anything. Most of the heartache is self-inflicted however. Know what you have going on before you upgrade and you will not have a problem. Trust those who know.

To Toast or to Burn in SP- that is the question.

I know many of you recommend doing the project build in DVDSP and then burning with Toast. I recently started using Toast 6.1.1. to burn my project, but I don't see any appreciable quality difference than burning it in DVDSP 3. I used best quality settings and burned at 1XDVD. Are my settings askew? Is the difference that negligible when burning between the 2 programs? I know that Toast does a verify and DVDSP does not, but I've burned over 100 DVDs in SP and only produced 1 coaster! Thanks in advance for the input.
Steve

Hi Steve,
Yup...David is right. use Toast to burn as 1xDVD and the compatability is said to be better.
I use Toast exclusively.
Just build out of SP...test the build with the DVD player (I don't know why some folks wouldn't just in case something is messed up)...then burn 'from video_ts folder'...drag your audio and video over; select the 1xDVD speed and click the button. Good luck!
Cheers,
Keebler

PluginCoder error:no plugin DLLs

I completed a video project and am attempting to burn it to a DVD. After encoding the entire project, and burning up to 99% I receive the following message: PluginCoder error:no plugin DLLs. The DVD tray opens, and a shiny, new coaster is presented.
I have run a Check Disk and Defrag on my hard drive.
No more than a month ago, I successfully burned a DVD from Premiere Elements while running a trial to evaluate the product.
I'm burning an NTSC DolbyDVD (I've tried both standard and widescreen).
I have successfully burned to a folder on my computer without an error.
My DVD-RW drive is a Plextor PX-L890SA running the latest firmware available from Plextor.
I have over 100 GB of free space on my hard drive (the drive where scratch space is identified).
Any ideas why I might be getting that error?

aperture14
If you delete the Adobe Premiere Elements Prefs file and/or the 13.0 whole folder in which it existed, it is essentially impossible to loss your existing project files.
Did you go word for work through
Go for the Adobe Premiere Elements Prefs file deletion and, if that does not work, then delete the whole 13.0 Folder in which it exists.
Local Disk C
Users
Owner
AppData
Roaming
Adobe
Premiere Elements
13.0
and in the 13.0 Folder is the Adobe Premiere Elements Prefs file that you delete. And, if that does not work, then you delete the whole 13.0 Folder
in which it exists. The key to doing this is to work with Folder Options Show Hidden Files, Folders, and Drives enabled so that you can see the whole path
cited. In Windows 8, the path to the Folder Options dialog/View Tab and that option starts with the File Explorer.
I just did a run through again of the above with my Premiere Elements 13 and deleting the 13.0 Folder in the path cited. None of my projects were lost.
So, not sure what could have happened in your case unless you went off the path somehow. But, did you try to find your missing projects in the Recycle Bin and Restore them from there?
To try to find a possible Timeline flaw, you could try making copies of the original and using copies of the original for the following mini test runs...do you have any
DVD-RW for this...they can be used again after you give the program permission to erase prior content before doing the next burn to on the that disc.
1. Copy 1...delete the last half of the project and go for the burn to disc.
2. Copy 2...delete the first half of the project, move the remaining to the beginning of the Timeline and go for the burn to disc.
3. Copy 3...delete all the content from audio tracks, leave everything as is.
4. Copy 4...delete all the content from the video tracks, leave everything as is.
Did 1, 2, 3, 4 burn to disc successfully?
We will be watching for further developments.
ATR

Green / static screen with iDVD playback?

I get a green static screen (sound is okay) when I burn discs from iDVD 7.1.2 on to DVD Rs. This green/static screen happens when I play back on my iMac and on a Blue Ray DVD player. I've disabled the "sleep" function that was an issue on earlier iDVDs. I have a 2 year old iMac. How do I fix this? Thank you.

I could have guessed.
• Memorex a notorious problem maker - I only use Verbatim (More organic dye in this = Better)
• DVD+R is a more modern type - but works on fewer DVD-Players (Blu-Ray-players seems to be more picky) - I use DVD-R (only)
• As You don't mention Burn Speed - My guess is that You've not done nothing to it so if You use x16 DVDs then iDVD tries to burn it as this = Many Burn Errors = Play's badly or on fewer players
• Keep NTSC from Camera to final DVD = Better than changing in iMovie or iDVD - if You must do this use JES_Deinterlacer (free and gives near top result - alt. costs astronomical and gain in view barely visibly.
• Best Performance - most often are not - I only use Pro Quality (only for movies < 45 minutes in total (menu included) - Best Performances can do better)
iDVD 08, 09 & 11 has three levels of qualities. (version 7.0.1, 7,0.4 & 7.1.1) and iDVD 6 has the two last ones
• Professional Quality
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - BEST (but not always for short movies e.g. up to 45 minutes in total)
• Best Performances
(movies + menus less than 60 min.) - High quality on final DVD (Can be best for short movies)
• High Quality (in iDVD08 or 09) / Best Quality (in iDVD6)
(movies + menus up to 120 min.) - slightly lower quality than above
Menu can take 15 minutes or even more - I use a very simple one with no audio or animation like ”Brushed Metal” in old Themes.
About double on DL DVDs.
• 16 x 9 = OK - I've done too
• SL-DVD - Yes 100% only DL became a coaster (disaster) to me
• Size - 3,78Gb - DOESN'T Guarantee anything - iDVD Only Cares about DURATION - Movie time PLUS Menu Time (Menu can be 15 minutes or even more). I have movies on 500Mb that DO NOT FIT and on 50Gb that fit's nicely. Only Duration !
Also important is - free space on Start-Up (Mac OS) hard disk - I never go under 25Gb free space to let iDVD and Mac OS work OK. Free space on other hard disks of NO Importance as this use for temp. files can not be addressed elsewhere.
Yours Bengt W

LCD TV for MBP Question - PAL/NTSC ?

I want to buy an LCD TV (not plasma) to use with my MBP. If possible from the USA as the exchange rates are so good it would be a real bargain.
My question is: are US LCD TV's compatible with European TV signals ?
The US uses NTSC and we in UK use PAL. I know the old CRT TV's are not compatible unless they are multi system.
Could someone with an LCD TV in the USA check if they can input a PAL signal as well as NTSC ?
Many thanks.....

Syntrak,
My 2 cents, it might be difficult for you to find a seller that ship out of the US (specially for TV). I took the liberty to reply to your post because I spent 8 ear in the US until last september.
You are right about NTSC vs. PAL, it's going to be more difficult to find in the US a TV that is PAL than here in Europe to find a TV the accept NTSC.
I just check Amazon.com and they do not show NTSC/PAL compatibility (one TV shows ATSC, to receive HD signal from the air), look here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FA0DFM/ref=dpcp_ob_title0/102-3583852-2110522
Here is more info about ATSC signal: http://www.answers.com/topic/atsc (read the wikipedia article).
Also I'm afraid that no TV sold in the US will have a SCART input, I do not really know if UK use that input plug.
You are going to have hard time to find a TV that also work in 220V (US is 110Volt), not a lot of TV (contrary to DVD player) accept 110/220Volts.
Check Circuit city (www.circuitcity.com) Best Buy (www.bestbuy.com) for information as well as Amazon.com but none will ship out of the US (as far as I know).
Good luck and you have a lot of homework to do.
Thierry

Widget won't updatae.

For example the weather widget. I flip it over put in my zip code or city, click search and click done. But whenever I open the weather widget it always fails to give me the weather for San Francisco rather than the East Coast city that I live in.

After you type your zip or city, hit your enter key (you meant this instead of "click search" right?) and hit Done, does the Weather widget report the correct data? If so -- and you close the Weather widget -- then yes, it will forget your setting and next time you open it will show you a default city based on information it saved when you registered your Mac. The trick is to keep the Weather widget open in your Dashboard.
(or, if I misunderstood you and the problem appears ftaer you hit Done, can you tell us what city or zip code you are trying to enter?)

Time & Calender problem

I have been trying to fix the time on my iphone. Following these steps:
settings --> general --> date and time
But still there is a problem that my calender shows date of 1970 year.
I couldn't set it on 2014 year.
Please , need help. I want to change it from 1970 to 2014.
Thanks all in advance.

Check under Settings for Mail, Contacts, Calendars. There is an option called Time Zone Support. If it is turned on and you have defined a city, the calendar will show you the event dates and times in terms of the time zone of that city. If it is turned off, then the calendar will show you event dates and times in terms of your current location (network/iPad time).
Does that help? If I am understanding you correctly.... It sounds as though you might want to turn Time Zone Support off or define it to a city in Germany - is it set to a US West Coast city?

Expert coaster maker needs help! AVI plays - DVD issues??

The problem is that there seems to be a piece of footage that doesn't want to play right on the TV/DVD. It plays perfect in AVI format and through Encore preview (also Premiere).
Not all the video/audio is bad and stuttering - just a few parts. But, these parts pause/stop/start the playback.
History of the footage:
Four DV tapes imported Used Premiere (all products latest CS3 with latest updates) to edit video (multiple camera angles, etc)
Exported attempts: Microsoft DV AVI, Uncompressed Microsoft AVI and direct to Encore
I've even just worked with the problem section with same results.
Note: all footage plays perfectly within Premiere, Encore and Windows media player.
There is nothing different about this piece of footage - in fact it's within a large clip that plays right up to the problem.
Any ideas?
If there is other information I can offer please tell me what it is.
Thanks upfront for all the ideas and help!!
Kevin

Try using RW - no coasters.
Is it the exact same section of footage that causes problems every time? Or are there minor variations?
Try different hardware/software DVD players.
Try different blank media.
Try burning at a slower speed.
Try building a disc image, then burning that through another program like
ImgBurn

DVD no worky in standalone DVD players

I cannot get my burned DVD to play in any players. It will play in DVD Player on my G4, but thats it. I've tried 2 different brands of disks also. What really chaps my hide is that i did the EXACT same thing this time last year and it worked. No problems. And all my software is identical (with the exception of a newer QT) Here is what i did. Does anyone see anything wrong with this???
Step 1: Created a movie in Flash
Step 2: Exported as quicktime
Step 3: Created new iDVD project
Step 4: Dragged aforementioned QT movie onto Autoplay portion of DVD map
Step 5: Chose "Loop Movie"
Step 6: Burned DVD

hi bazooka,
to add my sad commend:
I onced used a Pioneer102 as external/internal drive (some... hardware voodoo with a Cube, a looong story...)
exactly 2 years (warranty) + 4 days (no warranty) after purchasing, that drive begun to start as odd as yours: first, DVDs had "hickups", finally didn't play on my trusty 49€ DVDstandalone.. then audio-cd showed the same symptoms... finally, even the drive itself could not read media it created...
problem: I have no clue, how to test a drive!
maybe Sue has something in her library.... ?

DVD ROM/CDRW on same channel, no worky

I have a CD-RW (set as SLAVE) and a DVD Rom (set as MASTER) connected to IDE2. Only the DVD is reading media. If I remove the DVD and make the CDRW master, it will then read media. The device manager shows no problems with either device. They work fine independently, just not on the same IDE channel.
Any ideas?

Thanks for the tip.
Both devices work fine on seperate channels.
I've switched my drives' master/slave jumpers back and forth. I've replaced the IDE cable. Checked the BIOS and the Device Manager and there were no conflicts or problems in general. Windows does see both drives (as location 1 and 0). However the CDRW will not read media as either a slave or a master on the same channel as the DVD Rom. The DVD on the other hand can read in either state. Would there be any reason my CDRW wants full priority perhaps? I'm drawing a blank. Oh and the CDRW is a Lite On 40125s

DVD-R no Worky - I am in Coaster City

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