DVD to iPhone App Encoding:  what is the best workflow?

I am making an iPhone App. I take the video from a DVD.
Naturally I would like to obtain the best image quality for the smallest file size.
I know that the Compressor pre set for iPhone makes:
H.264, 640 x 360, Millions, AAC, Stéréo (G D), 44,100 Khz
So my guess is that I need  to convert my MPEG-2 movie to a m4v, H.264, 640 x 360
This is the info of the DVD MPEG-2:
224 MPEG-2, 720 × 480, 4:3, 29.97 fps, 7.50 Mbps, lower field
On one Mac (PowerPC), I have FCP 6.0, Compressor 3.0, MpegStreamClip 1.9.2, QT 7.2
On my other Mac (intel), I have QT 10
I can either use Compressor 3 or buy Compressor 4... I wonder if a QT MPEG-4 Export could do the job?
Of course the movie needs to be compatible (format and video data) to all iPhone iPod Touch and iPad models...
Any suggestion would be great, thanks.

OK great!
So:
MpegStreamClip > ProRes 422 > Compressor > iPod Touch and iPad preset
The MPEG-2 is letterboxed 720 × 480. When cropping the letterboxed area via the geometry pane, I get a 640 X 380 (ideal for me)
Can I use this 640 X 380 size with the iPod Touch and iPad preset ? Will it show up fine on the iPhone 4 and other devices? Should I crop in a different size?

Similar Messages

  • For iPhone and Android, what is the best file format for watching videos?

    For iPhone and Android, what is the best file format for watching videos?

    You can try these setting. They are from CS5.5 but should work in CS4.
    Make sure you check Use Max. Render Quality.

  • Why jpeg file exported from Aperture with 300 dpi's it opens with 72 dpi's on PS ( image size)? I've tried several combinations and all give different results. And I am confused on what is the best workflow for me.

    Ok.
    My workflow is
    RAW > Aperture Library > export jpeg high resolution 300 dpi's > one file on PS > edit > Save us jpeg. The I realised that files from PS were being save in a smaller size from the ones exported form Aperture. That is when I went o see <image size> on PS and files were with 72.
    Since ten I've trying different things
    1. Aperture > export as PSD > open on PS > edit > Save us jpeg = small file (around 15 MB)
    2. Aperture > export as jpeg high resolution 300 dpi's > open on PS > CHANGE dpi's to 300 on <image size> edit > Save us jpeg = big file (Huge, actually)
    What am I doing wrong? Would someone give me guidance and tell me what is the best workflow, considering I edit photos to deliver to my clients and I shall give them 300 dpi's.
    Thank you

    This is a known Aperture issue: Problem with Aperture 3.6 preset exports. | Apple Support Communities
    Benjamin

  • What is the best workflow procedure for importing DV SP 16x9 footage into FCP7 and then exporting the best quality 16x9 to standard DVD so that it looks great (or at least good) on a 50" Samsung LCD TV ?????? Please help! anybody?? Thanks!

    We are using a Sony HDV-Z7U camera for acquisition. We recently recorded an event using the camera's non HD capabilities. We set the camera to record "DV SP" 16x9 settings on both Mini-DV tape and CF card.
    To import the DV SP footage into FCP7 we chose the "DV NTSC anamorphic" setting in the log and transfer settings window. After a successful transfer from the CF card (the CF card held approximately 83 minutes) we checked the size of the file and found it to be 16 Gigs! Why so big? An 83 miniDV tape shot in SD should easily fit on a standard 4.7 gig MPEG2 DVD.
    We need to burn DVDs of this show - we sent it to compressor and got horrible quality.
    What is the best setting to use in FCP7's log and transfer settings window to import DV SP 16x9 standard def. footage and what is the best method for exporting for outputting this footage to DVD that preserves the original quality of the DV SP footage?? Anyone? Many thanks

    > Why so big? An 83 miniDV tape shot in SD should easily fit on a standard 4.7 gig MPEG2 DVD.
    No it doesn't. DV is 13GB per hour.
    In any case, a Video DVD uses the MPEG 2 codec, not DV.
    >What is the best setting to use in FCP7's log and transfer settings window to import DV SP 16x9 standard def.
    DV NTSC anamorphic.
    >what is the best method for exporting for outputting this footage to DVD...
    Use the Compressor DVD preset "Best Quality 90 mins".
    >...that preserves the original quality of the DV SP footage?
    Not going to happen, you are compressing by a factor of 1:4. Shooting as HDV would have given you better quality material to start with. DV is at the bottom end of the scale.

  • What's the best workflow for Home Movie Importing and Enjoying?

    I'm new to iMovie (and the mac) and have started importing all my home movies from my camcorder into iMovie. I quickly realized that movies take a huge amount of disk space and it may or may not be reasonable to import all my movies and keep them on the hard disk in .dv format. At 12GB/Hour I would need 1.2 Terabytes of storage (plus backup). If that is the best workflow, i'm happy to invest in a few terabytes of storage and back up. But before I do that, I want to check to see if there is a different workflow I should follow given my use case.
    Here is my use case:
    I have 100 hours of 8mm and miniDV tapes already and plan to continue creating more.
    I want to import them all into the iMac for ease of organization, searching for the clips of interest, and watch them either on my iMAC and also on my TV (via TIVO).
    I may do some editing, but this is not a big priority for me at this time. I may do more editing in the distant future when I have more time. My editing for now will be limited to rejecting portions of clips I don't want.
    I plan to watch the movies from my iMac on my TV via my TIVO (i've already ordered the Roxio Toast software that I understand I need, per the Tivo web site).
    The final piece of my use case is back-up. I'd prefer to back up my movies on disk this way I maintain any editing i've done in case of a disk failure. Depending on what video format is recommended, this may bump me into a RAID multi-terabyte system as both working and automatic backup?
    Here are my questions:
    Should I maintain my event library in .dv format? (and bite the bullet on the storage)
    Or is the .dv format intended only for temporary editing and users are expected to compress into another format after editing? if so, what format and which tool is recommended? (keeping in mind that I want to view the clips via Tivo and Roxio/Toast).
    If I need to byte the bullet and invest in storage, my quick math suggests I'll need about 2 terabytes for the library and 2 more for back up for a total of 4 terabytes!?. Is a RAID system recommended for this? (I was surprised that the Apple store did not carry such a system, so perhaps that is not the best option). What would you recommend?
    Anyone out there with a similar use case? I know I've asked a lot of questions here. I'd appreciate any recommendations you may have, even if you cant answer all of them.
    Thank you.

    I am in a similar mode, though about half as much existing DV footage.
    +Should I maintain my event library in .dv format? (and bite the bullet on the storage)+
    Short answer, yes; long answer:
    I did "bite the bullet" since 1T drives are at or just over $100. I'm using a MacBook Pro so I bought an 2 port eSATA card for my cardbus slot ($34), and a 1T eSATA/Firewire/USB drive ($119). I don't plan to "back up" as I am not going to get rid of my Mini DV tapes/vhs/analog tapes, etc. Those will be in an off-site dark cool closet elsewhere. I don't want to do RAID or such as it still puts everything in the same drive unit, in the same location. Basically I'm splitting my video import to two different physical drives. So if lightning, thieves, personal incompetence or whatever strikes, there's more chance it'll only affect one of the drives. I've thought about a Drobo, which you might consider. It is unique device that offers a spin on RAID that offers some advantages.
    Everything I read here on these boards suggests that it is best to grab the source video in the original format whenever possible. Since storage is cheap, makes sense to me.
    It is likely you wouldn't compress your video unless you were going to edit it. For example if you wanted to make a video of the kids growing up to give the relatives you'd likely end up compressing to burn them a dvd. You would compress if you were going to use MobileMe, YouTube, etc. to post some footage. Whether you watch the video from home, or output to DVD for others, or post online, at least you'll have the source video in it's best possible original format to work with.
    This is an aside, but might be useful, I imported one tape at a time, let iM09 create a new event and split per each day. THen I renamed every event based on what the content was before doing the next tape. This really helps later on once yo realize you have a hard drive with 50 hours + of everything in your life on it. I included the year in the name in some way, for example, John's wedding 1994, Hawaii 2000, Hawaii 2004. Then I ended up drag/dropping Hawaii to one event.

  • What is the best workflow for Final Cut Pro X across multiple computers?

    I travel on a team that is in a different location every week, so all of our video editing has to be fairly moble. We have 3 macbook pros and would like to use final cut X on all of them. What would be the best workflow for us all to work on the same project and sync it across the computers? (eg, one of us editing the footage, one editing the sound, one working on visual effects?)

    My first question would be how well 5.1 would work with SL. People have reported problems.
    As far as cameras are concerned, I would guess most any tape-based camera would work and so much depends on the kind of projects you work on that I wouldn't want to start guessing at your needs.
    If you want broad access to tapeless and advanced formats try to locate and purchase an upgrade disk to 6 or 7.
    Good luck.
    Russ

  • Internet on my MacBook Pro, via my iPhone 3G ? what's the best app ?

    Hello you all,
    I live in the middle of nowhere in Argentina. I have an iPhone 4S plus 3G contract with Movistar-Telefonica, and a MacBook Pro under Lion.
    In your experience what would be the best app to get internet on my MacBook Pro via my iPhone  4S ?
    And in that case where can I get the operation manual ?  :-)
    Best results with ? Airport Express Base station ? Bluetooth ? what else ?
    Many thanks  for your help !!!
    Richard
    two minutes advertising  ;-))
    http://www.zangzing.com/rdsck/zen-and-the-art-of-unimog-maintenance

    There is no separate app, necessary or possible. If your carrier offers a tethering plan, the iPhone will support it directly. See:
    http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4517
    If your carrier does not offer such a plan, then no app can change that.
    Regards.

  • What is the best workflow for AVCHD with iMovie/iDVD 09?

    I am recording AVCHD video with a Sony HDR-SR11. I don't have a blu-ray burner yet, so I want to create the highest quality DVD's I can from this source video using my MacBook and the software I have (iMovie 09 and iDVD 09).
    Currently I am importing the video clips into iMovie 09 at the 1920x1200 setting. After creating a 16:9 movie I choose "Share to Media Browser" and export at the highest setting I see (I think 1280x720, I'm not on the MacBook at the moment).
    After a long while this completes and I launch iDVD 09. I drag the movie I exported above into the theme and burn at Professional Quality. After another long wait I have my DVD but I'm quite disappointed with the video quality.
    Even taking into account that DVD is not a hi-def disc format it seems like the video quality should be better. Is there a better workflow I should be using with this combination of software? Maybe some way to avoid scaling/compressing the video twice? Or is this as good as it gets with iMovie 09 and iDVD 09? I may have access to iMovie 06, if that would help.
    Thanks,
    Gerald

    3) Share to Media Browser with Best Quality
    For folks like me that wonder exactly how did you do this:
    (I don't know what Media Browser is yet.)
    I did this: (I got some warnings - did you?)
    In iMovie:
    Selected my 1280x720 "HD" video in the Project panel,
    Share->Media Browser...
    - if HD is greyed out, you already shared this size to Media Browser, go to next step,
    or select "Remove from Media Browser, check HD, click Remove"
    - if HD is not greyed, but is not check marked,
    select Computer icon, then uncheck Mobile, Med, and Lrg, leaving only HD checked
    With HD checked, Click Publish - watch "Creating the HD movie.."
    Bring up iDVD, Select Create a new project, browse for location and enter project name
    If Themes at bottom right is not selected (Dark), click it
    Double click a theme - for example under Revolution, choose Chapters.
    At bottom right, select Media, At top right, select Movies
    Under iMovie should be your iMovie project - mine says "My First Project" (I didn't name iMovie proj)
    Select your iMovie Project,
    you should see a thumb of your video with dimension, size listed
    (movie duration is down at bottom right.)
    Drag the thumbnail onto the iDVD preview window (I don't what that window is officially called)
    drop it under the theme title "Revolution Chapters" for this example
    You should see a running preview of your video with the project name below it.
    Important step: Project->Project Info, Under Encoding: select Best or Professional Quality
    Ok re-encoding warning, close Proj Info window.
    File->Burn DVD... Popup says "Warnings in Project", select Continue Burning
    Insert DVD (Apple designed sharp edges on the SuperDrive on purpose?)
    I used Staples 4x DVD-RW first.
    Watch process proceed till DVD is ejected...Don't believe "Time remaining: about one minute"
    My DVD-R120 player-recorder would not load the disk. It played fine on iMac, a WindowsXP laptop, and a Windows XP desktop. This DVD machine only likes old 1X RW media for some reason. I wish someone made a standalone Blu-Ray recorder/player. I burned a second copy to some gold Sony 1X/2X DVD-RW media, and this disk played fine.
    Picture quality is soft compared to HD material, but the moire patterns on some edges is only somewhat reduced over the Share to iDVD version. This Share to Media Browser version is acceptable for folks that won't go to Vimeo or YouTube to see my videos in HD.

  • Aspect Ratio issues getting 16:9 to look right, what is the best workflow?

    Hi all,
    I am having trouble getting my 16:9 footage to look right when I export, especially when playing on DVD. I shot the footage with a Sony HDR-HC1 which apparently shoots in 16:9 anamorphic. Originally when I imported the footage it appeared it the FCP viewer and canvas in 4:3 letterboxed form, the image did not look squeezed or stretched but appeared with black stripes on top and bottom.
    I have tried several experiments with exporting this footage to dvd with the following results:
    Using Compressor with 4:3 setting in export:
    DVD Studio Pro track settings to 16:9 looks extra squashed vertically
    DVDSP track settings to 4:3 image looks in proper aspect ratio but displays with black stripes on all 4 sides.
    Using Compressor with 16:9 settings in export gives the same results.
    In conclusion, if it appears in 4:3 letterbox in FCP viewer and canvas there is no way to get it to export and display in DVD with proper 16:9 aspect ratio.
    I have also done some experimenting with re-capturing some of the footage from the tape.
    For one sequence I recaptured the footage and it displayed in 4:3 without the letterboxed effect (filling the whole screen) but appeared squeezed, I am guessing that this is because of the anamorphic nature in which my camera captures the footage. No pixels were missing. In the FCP viewer and canvas it looked squeezed and did not display in the correct aspect ratio, however when it was exported via Compressor in 4:3 and then in DVDSP Track Settings put to 16:9 Letterboxed, it is displayed perfectly (letterboxed vertically, the image filling the width of the screen without the extra stripes on the sides).
    So I thought that I had my solution here, although that did involve re-digitizing and batch capturing all 18 tapes used in the project, so its not exactly a quick fix.
    This is where it gets a bit confusing. In order to understand where I had originally gone wrong in my workflow I did some more experiments, this time with the settings on the camera (which I use for a deck in batch capturing). I found the function on the camera where you can set the "TV Type" to either 16:9 or 4:3. I switched the TV Type to 4:3 and when batching it went back to the original letterboxed look (in the batch preview screen that you see while capturing), however when put into the viewer and canvas it was too letterboxed and looked squashed vertically. So then I switched back to TV Type 16:9, now it looks 4:3 squeezed in the batch preview screen (no letterboxing, no missing pixels), however when it goes into the viewer and canvas it becomes letterboxed like the original footage that I had described earlier.
    So now even though I have switched the camera back to its original settings it will not display in that 4:3 squeezed look in FCP viewer and canvas.
    So after all that my main questions are, in 16:9 can I view it in the FCP viewer and canvas in its correct (anamorphically converted) aspect ratio and still export it without the black bars on all sides?
    (The FCP canvas seems to only display in 4:3)
    If not, what setting do I need to capture in FCP in the 4:3 squeezed look I have described earlier?
    (This is the only setting that I have found that displays properly when anamorphically stretched via DVDSP)
    I know that this is a long essay so thanks for making it this far. I have spent weeks experimenting trying to find the best solution so please help me if you know how! I will be very appreciative.
    Thanks
    Liam

    Hi there,
    I am not sure if it is necessarily a bug, but its a matter of understanding all of the settings needed. I had the same problems for a while but after a fair bit of trial and error have found some workable settings.
    It probably has more to do with the export settings rather than what viewer options have selected (I don't think that viewer settings affect your export).
    What program are you using to export?
    I am using compressor to export with aspect ration set to automatic 16:9. Then use DVDSP with the track set to 16:9 letterbox, it seems to export to DVD with the correct aspect ratio that way.
    I am having trouble with the image strobing, looks like some kind of interlacing problem, but at least I have got it in the right aspect ratio.
    Its typical video, solve one problem and it just creates another.
    I am yet to find the absolute best workflow.
    In response to Andy above, the original letterboxed footage probably did have something to do with the downconverting settings on the camera, as when I import without downconverting it does not letterbox. In the HDR-HC1 there is an option in the menu called "TV Type" with options of 4:3 or 16:9. I was reviewing my footage on a 4:3 television so I most likely had it set to 4:3 which created the letterboxing in the viewer when I then imported the footage.
    Importing the footage in HDV solves the issue of aspect ratio, but creates a new problem with the image strobing.
    I hope this was some kind of help to you.
    Liam

  • What is the best workflow for Ultimate Sharpening w PSE 8?

    I shoot a lot of flowers close up and also birds. Both have lots of detail, feathers or stamen, so I rely heavily on sharpening. With birds, sometimes they are flying or distant or both which makes it challenging to get the pics sharp. Recently I have learned more about sharpening and now I am suffering from, "The more I know, the more I know I don't know." Also, some of my information is based on rumor and I would really appreciate any advice. How about if I discuss my workflow and ask some questions here and there.
    I shoot RAW with a Canon 7D and I almost always downsize my pics to nnnn x 1080 for this conversation, lets assume I always do this downsizing. I've heard that downsized pics should never be sharpened until after they are downsized. Is this true? Should I set all of the ACR sharpening sliders to zero? Should I also keep the Clarity slider low in ACR or is it more mid-tone contrast and less sharpening? Is there another way to improve Clarity in PSE, not ACR?
    When I am done with ACR and open in Elements, the first thing I do is crop and resize using Image, Resize, Bicubic Sharper. Then I fix blemishes. Next I select out the subject(s) and adjust with Color Curves and then Luminous Sharpening which seems to give me better results than Enhance- Adjust Sharpness. (After two years of using Elements I just found this Luminous sharpening and it is so good. I sure wish I would have notice that in Brundage's book earlier. I makes me wonder what else I am missing.) After the Luminous Sharpening should I try High Pass sharpening additionally or any other kind of sharpening? Are there any rules of thumb on when what type of sharpening works best in which application? For example, I heard another rumor that sharpening highlights or dark shadows just increases noise. Is there a good way to handle those situations, like select them out or use a special blend mode?
    After I am done with the subject, I usually inverse to the background and de-noise and/or blurr and desaturate to punch up the subject.
    Is full Photoshop required to get the best sharpening tools or is the sharpening similar and other aspects are more powerful? I use so little of Elements 8 that I would assume and hope that Photoshop or Lightroom would be overkill at this point.
    Thank you for reviewing this! If you can think of any way I could improve I would really appreciate any comments.
    Doug

    Hi Barbara,
    I am humbled to be communicating with someone who wrote such and incredible book! Ok, enough blathering.
    This will also answer Andrewzaye's question about output.
    Maybe I shouldn't be resampling but here is my rationale. Most of my best pics I like to show occasionally on my HTDV which has a resolution of 1920x 1080. I resample my pics to get them down to that 1080 vertical resolution so that they will fit the native resolution of the screen. (The sides often don't extend the full 1920 but I don't have a problem with the black space on the sides.) This is based on my believe that images on LCDs look best at the LCDs native resolution (and I like to think I know about this because, as a sales mgr for Toshiba, I used to sell notebook computer LCDs by the tens of thousands to big computer companies.) Sometimes I resample and downsize again to email pics as n x 680. It seems to work fine with decent results but I am certainly open to suggestion.
    If I eventually decide to print out a photo, it will be to hang on a wall and for that I save the original CR2 file and the post ACR dng files. If I like something enough to print it, I don't mind editing it again and making sure I am getting it as good as possible. Of course I would keep as much resolution as possible for printing.
    Ok, those are my excuses. I would love to hear your thoughts on my sharpening questions.
    Doug

  • What is the best workflow for AVCHD and iMovie/iDVD 09?

    I am recording AVCHD video with a Sony HDR-SR11. I don't have a blu-ray burner yet, so I want to create the highest quality DVD's I can from this source video using my MacBook and the software I have (iMovie 09 and iDVD 09).
    Currently I am importing the video clips into iMovie 09 at the 1920x1200 setting. After creating a 16:9 movie I choose "Share to Media Browser" and export at the highest setting I see (I think 1280x720, I'm not on the MacBook at the moment).
    After a long while this completes and I launch iDVD 09. I drag the movie I exported above into the theme and burn at Professional Quality. After another long wait I have my DVD but I'm quite disappointed with the video quality.
    Even taking into account that DVD is not a hi-def disc format it seems like the video quality should be better. Is there a better workflow I should be using with this combination of software? Maybe some way to avoid scaling/compressing the video twice? Or is this as good as it gets with iMovie 09 and iDVD 09? I may have access to iMovie 06, if that would help.
    Thanks,
    Gerald

    I am recording AVCHD video with a Sony HDR-SR11. I don't have a blu-ray burner yet, so I want to create the highest quality DVD's I can from this source video using my MacBook and the software I have (iMovie 09 and iDVD 09).
    Currently I am importing the video clips into iMovie 09 at the 1920x1200 setting. After creating a 16:9 movie I choose "Share to Media Browser" and export at the highest setting I see (I think 1280x720, I'm not on the MacBook at the moment).
    After a long while this completes and I launch iDVD 09. I drag the movie I exported above into the theme and burn at Professional Quality. After another long wait I have my DVD but I'm quite disappointed with the video quality.
    Even taking into account that DVD is not a hi-def disc format it seems like the video quality should be better. Is there a better workflow I should be using with this combination of software? Maybe some way to avoid scaling/compressing the video twice? Or is this as good as it gets with iMovie 09 and iDVD 09? I may have access to iMovie 06, if that would help.
    Thanks,
    Gerald

  • What is the best workflow for me, need heavy post production

    Hi,
    I recently filmed a video where a person was in front of a green screen. The camera broke the video up into several clips. I am going to chroma key out the green screen and there are a lot of effects I want to do.
    I'd like to skip straight to AE because I know it better and I have a lot of work there to do. The problem is, I can't hear the audio and it plays real slow.
    Is it possible to start in AE or should I start in Premiere? Can you recommend a short series of steps I should take to make this work?
    Thanks
    Stan

    I recently filmed a video where a person was in front of a green screen.
    Using what kind of camera?  What's the footage's acquisition codec?  I'll assume that you're well-versed in lighting for green screen.
    I'd like to skip straight to AE because I know it better and I have a lot of work there to do. The problem is, I can't hear the audio and it plays real slow.
    It appears you need to know a little more about AE, specifically about RAM previewing:
    http://help.adobe.com/en_US/aftereffects/cs/using/WS3878526689cb91655866c1103906c6dea-7ec9 a.html
    It would also be good to know what you mean by "skip straight to AE".  How are you capturing this video you shot?
    Is it possible to start in AE or should I start in Premiere?
    I don't know what the rest of your project is like, but for just about any project I've ever heard of, the workflow is to capture video, edit the video, and export the parts that require work in AE.  The fact that you have a ton of green-screen clips doesn't have a lot of bearing on that workflow.

  • What's the Best Workflow to Add Footage to Existing H.264 files?

    I have some ready-made clips for the Internet already spec'd to H.264 at about 640x480. The audio is AAC. I would like to add bumpers to the beginning and end of these clips. Would you simply import them into FCP, make a 640x480 timeline add the bumpers, render and export? Or, is there a better way?
    I ran a test where I imported the H.264 file into FCP, added my bumpers and re-rendered. The results were not that bad however I'm getting interlacing issues when uploading to Vimeo. I tried using 'Progressive' in Compressor to rid of the of the lines but no luck. Then I took a look at the'De-Interlace' filter in FCP but it appears that the original H.264 file is what contains the lines and the filter doesn't remove them. Any ideas. Here's the result on Vimeo:
    http://vimeo.com/1893904
    In case you're wondering, I no longer have the original, 720x480, SD files. The 640x480, H.264 is all I have to work with.

    Open your main movie and its bumpers in QuickTime Player.
    Make sure the Timeline on your main movie is sitting at frame 1 then click your intro bumper to bring it to the front.
    Press cmd & A keys (select all). Press cmd & C keys (copy). Press Option, cmd and V keys (Add to Movie).
    Move the timeline of your main movie to the last frame then click your outro (is that a word?) bumper to bring it to the front.
    Press cmd & A keys (select all). Press cmd & C keys (copy). Press Option, cmd and V keys (Add to Movie).
    Save As... (makes a new file - better than overwriting the old version.)
    Quick and dirty, but it gets the job done.

  • What is the best workflow with SVN and Developer Data Modeler.

    I am workin on strategy to fullfill next tasks with Data Modeler:
    * Posibility to work on paralel branches for model
    * Merging changes from different branches
    * Generating upgrade scripts for changes (from one commit till other)
    * Maintaining posiblity to fast build empty database for any version of model
    What are your ideas?
    Do you use some database for thease operations or you do it only using Modeler?
    Does SVN merge works fine with Modeler?
    How you work with versioned Modeler and many versions of different development DBs.

    Hello,
    We work with SVN and DM too, but do not use branches for DM to prevent merges.
    If multiple developers work on the same design, each developer checks out the design. A lock can be used to prevent the update of the same object by multiple developers (if you want).
    If you commit changes in SVN, the other developers get informed on these changes by the 'Pending changes'. They can decide whether or not they include those changes.
    If you synchronize with the other developer changes, you can create alter or create scripts by importing the target database and generate scripts.
    If you want to build a historical version of the model, you check out a version of the design with a specific revision (you can specifiy this during checkout). You build create scripts based for this version.
    Joop

  • What is the best workflow to duplicate adjustments across many clips and export them separately?

    Hi,
    I'm pretty new at this. I have 30 or so clips comprising about 90 min of HD AVCHD video. I'd like to adjust color and lighting and export them separately as max quality MP4s(h.264). In terms of PE, no real fancyeffects, the adjustments panel meets my needs. I plan to apply the same adjustments to each clip at least as a starting point. I own Adobe the Elements Family ver 12 (Premiere, Photoshop, and Organizer) and LightRoom. Can you advise me on what the most expeditious workflow would be?
    I'm not sure about any of this but here is my thinking so far:
    Premiere Elements:
    Pro:  Offers good adjustment control.
    Con: I'm thinking adjustments only apply to clips on the timeline or storyboard. If I remove the clip from the time line, adjustments won't stick in the assets panel. Export, exports everything on the time line. I'd have to go through the adjustment and export process individually for each clip. Not sure if I can save a development preset?
    Elements Organizer:
    Pro:  Can work with and export clips as separate files. Adjustments can be duplicated across clips(?).
    Con:  Not as many adjustment controls as Premiere Elements.
    LightRoom:
    Pro:  Can work with and export clips as separate files. Adjustments can be duplicated across clips.
    Con: Not sure if it has as many adjustment controls as Premiere Elements or not. Any others?
    Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
    BillyB

    I've had a few awarenesses since writing this post. Thought I'd write them up before a generous soul spent time answering my above question.
    It has become evident to me that I should be using one of the databases to accomplish this task rather than the video editor. ie EO or LR rather than PrEl. (I started with PrEl, therefore my confusion.)
    Organizer vs. LR is a question that I brought up before with lot's of helpful replies. No need to repeat all that. I guess one remaining question that would be helpful to know, however, is which library has superior video editing for a single video and for application of edits across multiple videos, Elements Organizer or LightRoom?
    thanks for reading!
    BillyB

Maybe you are looking for