Dynamic Range Increase

Hi,
I have been reading how by AutoBracketing you can get a dynamic range increase using Photoshop CS. It this possible with Lightroom 2?

I like LR/enfuse by far the best as it doesn't give the super ugly fake looking results, but the Photoshop route works too. Another one that many people seem to like is called Photomatix Pro. They provide a Lightroom export plugin. Both the Photoshop and the Photomatix contrast reduction technique tend to yield really ugly results if you don't tune them from their defaults. Strangely enough this seems to be in vogue currently. You can however tune them to give OK results.

Similar Messages

  • Setting dynamic range?

    ok i'm a video editor. how the heck can i set the dynamic range? its a project starting/ending in FCP, i want it to be broadcast safe, ostensibly want to limit the dynamic range to 7db (-12 to -6 or so) i theoretically understand the compressor/limiter can limit the peak here (altho i haven't really made that work) but is there an effect to bring up the bottom too? or another effect where i can do both? i'm stumped. & in dire need... thanks!

    ok i'm a video editor
    Nothing wrong with that
    is there an effect to bring up the bottom too?
    Usually that's not a good idea. How would your video look
    if you brought up all the blacks to 50%. Yuck.
    The idea is to increase your audio "gamma".
    There are 3 types of processing for audio:
    "Crushing the blacks" In audio terms that would be expanding
    or gating out background noise. Room tone is great,
    but if it's distracting, an expander with a low threshold (say, -40dB),
    will make things sound a little cleaner.
    "Boosting gamma" In audio terms that would be a light overall compression.
    Set the threshold for, say, -20, and the ratio to about 4, to bring those
    details up. Note that this will affect the overall perceived loudness of the track,
    so typically TV commercials crank this up to get it "louder" than the show.
    "Making luma broadcast safe" In audio terms, this would be limiting your
    audio to never go above 0dB. For this you need a limiter, with a high
    threshold, e.g. -3dB, a large compression ratio, e.g. 8, and set very fast.
    Like the video broadcast safe filter, it shouldn't affect the perceived
    loudess (luma) too much. You should already be in the ballpark
    before you apply this safety net.
    There are plug-ins which will do all three, but you can also just
    combine single filters to get the same result.
    Keep in mind that an audio level meter is sampling a moving target,
    so that you won't see all the peaks. For that reason, it is considered
    good practice to set your levels so that speech peaks around -12
    (or -6 for commercial rants).
    Another thing to remember is your intended audience. Are you
    selling cars or telling a sensitive story?
    Bottom line: get digital examples of other videos in the same genre.
    Take a look at their levels. What sounds good? What fits with the genre?
    Hope that helps,
    Les

  • Dynamic Range Compression for Gam

    Hi, all, thanks in advance for any help with this.
    I've recently acquired an Audigy2 Value card, and the specifications on the website stated that the card could perform Dynamic Range Compression. However, now having it home and looking over the software, it seems that that is only true as long as you're watching a movie. Since my PC game-playing room is loud, I have to keep the volume really high. And since I play first person shooter multiplayer games online with my friends, I have to put up with deafening gunshot sounds in order to have it loud enough to hear my sneaky friends' footstep sounds as they sneak up on me in the games.
    The ideal solution would be range compression to either lower the loud noises, or increase the volume of the quieter ones, so I could keep the total volume level more under control.
    Does anyone know of a way to do this, either with the help of the Creative Labs software or some third-party software?
    Thanks!
    e-cheddar

    I don't know if this is possible with your card, but the x-fi has an option called Smart Volume Management, which does what you want.Message Edited by the_One on 0-2-2006 08:6 AM

  • ACR Defaults and Dynamic Range

    The tone curve in ACR has a profound effect on the dynamic range of the rendered image, and often this is not appreciated by users. To demonstrate the effects of the tone curve on DR, I photographed a Stouffer step wedge with the Nikon D3 and rendered the image into a TIFF with various tone curves and determined the resulting dynamic range with Imatest.
    Here is the target rendered with the ACR defaults for this camera, which include a black point of 5 (downsampled and shown as a JPEG):
    http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/422699368_FRdKT-O.jpg
    Shown below is the resulting characteristic curve as determined by Imatest along with the DR and other data. The total dynamic range is only 7.64 stops. This low DR results from the default black point of 5, which rolls off the darker tones as shown on the graph.
    http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/422697342_tnUFo-O.png
    By setting the black to 0, the total DR is increased to 12.3 stops and the useful photographic DR according to various quality levels is shown.
    http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/422697338_5e8pv-O.png
    One can also use a linear tone curve by setting all the basic settings to 0 and the point curve to linear.
    http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/422697332_u59B5-O.png
    For convenience, the tone curves are shown together here.
    http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/422697328_26BFV-O.gif
    One might wonder why Adobe chose a default black value of 5 for the D3, since it severely limits dynamic range by rolling off the blacks. The probable answer is that the full DR can not be reproduced on screen or in print without using a tone curve that would give the image a flat and unattractive appearance. Note that the darker steps of the Stouffer wedge are not distinguishable on the screen but differences can be noted if one measures the values with the eyedropper in PS. The default setting of 5 rolls of shadows which would not be reproduced and enhances contrast in the remaining image.

    >Why? Real World Camera Raw is platform agnosticaside from the fact that most all of the images contained in the book happen to come from cameras Bruce and I had/have and those are Canons. To the best of my knowledge, there is nothing in Camera Raw that is camera model dependent except for the DNG Profiles and the baseline demosiacing and noise reduction which vary camera by camera. Why should I care about the Nikon D3 specifically?
    In 35 mm style dSLRs (which I would venture to say are used by the vast majority of ACR users) Nikon and Canon are the two major brands. One thing that is camera specific is the baseline exposure offset that ACR uses for these cameras. For the Nikon D3 (and other recent Nikon cameras), ACR uses a baseline exposure offset of +0.5 EV. If you don't know this and try to expose to the right as much as possible, the histogram will appear overexposed in ACR when in reality the channels are far from clipping.
    This is demonstrated in the following screen capture using ACR defaults with an Exposure value of 0. The highlights of the target appear blown.
    http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/423897106_wvzqw-O.png
    They also appear blown using the new beta profile, which does not take the baseline exposure offset into account.
    http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/423897066_xeHoi-O.png
    Looking at the raw histogram with Rawnalize, we see that the channels are not blown:
    http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/423898181_md3kC-O.png
    And here are the actual raw values for the red, green and blue channels (highlighted) of Step 1:
    http://bjanes.smugmug.com/photos/423901972_MguxL-O.png
    The raw headroom in each of the color channels (as shown in the raw histogram) also has something to do with the amount of highlight recovery that is possible. I would think that these considerations would be of inerest to the readers of your Camera Raw book.

  • LR dynamic Range Technic?!

    hello everyone,
    i came accross this video which i can't find again that shows some kind of a technic of handeling images.
    and it's as follows:
    taking the highlights all the way down to -100
    takingthe shadows all the way up to +100
    than,
    move the whites up with the alt key pressed untill clipped highlights occur.
    move the blacks down with the alt key pressed, untill clipped shadows occur.
    now i do see what it does to the image, but i wondered if someone is familiar with this technic and can explain furthuer what can be the uses of such a technic?
    thank much

    ShacharOren wrote:
    you said it all
    And yet I could go on for days (but don't worry: I won't - or at least I'll try not to ).
    Perhaps another formula which also has some redeeming qualities (oriented toward more natural results which incorporate exposure and contrast adjustments too):
    * If obviously over-exposed, reduce exposure some, else pass.
    * If obviously under-exposed, increase exposure some, else pass.
    * If obviously overly contrasty, decrease contrast some, else pass.
    * if seemingly under contrasty, pass (note: the distinction here: it's often impossible to tell if a photo is under-contrasty until blacks and/or whites are adjusted).
    then
    * adjust blacks
    repeat.
    The take-aways so far:
    * you can't adjust exposure and contrast in any meaningful (or near-final) way without blacks in the ball-park, so don't try.
    * you must use -contrast to knock overly contrasty shots down, lest you end up with a very unnatural looking photo.
    * you don't want to use +contrast unless a shot really needs it, which you can't tell until blacks (at least) are in the ball-park.
    If I've relayed the importance of not deferring blacks slider too long, then you got most of my point so far.
    Now do something similar but different:
    * If not occupying full (enough) dynamic range on the right, increase whites some.
    * if too bright, reduce exposure.
    * if still overly contrasty (or lacking in highlight/shadow detail), -highlights & +shadows.
    repeat.
    Conceptually:
    * you don't want to rely soley on -contrast for reducing contrast, lest you end up with an anemic looking photo (that's where the -highlights +shadows comes in).
    * You want to use whites slider for maximizing dynamic range without overexposing (and if you crank whites up, you may need to compensate by dropping exposure down - and in doing so, you'll reveal more highlight detail, and thus not need so much -highlights).
    The astute reader will have noticed: I left +contrast out of the formula. Not sure what to say, except in my opinion, increasing contrast is more of a "fine-tuning" activity, than getting blacks/whites/exposure balanced, which is primary. In other words, once one has basic dynamic range and brightness established, they can play with increasing contrast, and/or adding clarity, and tweak the others in concert.., to finish.
    PS - skewing (asymmetrical) highlight and shadow values I also consider a "fine-tuning" activity, at least for normal photos where a fairly normal result is desired.
    Examples:
    * if you want a brighter photo without excessive shadow brightness/detail, and with recovery of stubborn highlights, you may need:
    +exposure -highlights -shadows.
    But if you want a relatively dim photo but without closed-out shadows, you may need:
    -exposure +highlights +shadows.
    If you are after artistic effect, then forget all of this - no rules! (except maybe #5: have fun).
    UPDATE:
    =======
    The original formula, set forth by Adobe/Eric-Chan, Lee Jay, Victoria Bampton, etc. went more like this:
    * Adjust exposure as if it was the only adjustment you'd be allowed to make, until photo looks as good as possible with only exposure adjusted, then
    * Adjust contrast as if it was the only remaining adjustment you'd be allowed to make, until photo looks as good as possible with only exposure and contrast adjusted, then
    * Maybe adjust highlights and shadows...
    * Only adjust blacks & whites if necessary to set clipping points.
    Please forgive if I haven't paraphrased 100% accurately (in the interest of making a point), but the formula was known as "top-down" - and it had that name because the sliders were considered to be pre-ordered as they should be adjusted: most bang for buck at the top, and on down...
    I think this formula was invented due to dependent behaviors of PV2012 sliders (e.g. you don't want to dive into +shadows before considering +exposure because exposure influences range of tones affected by shadows slider), and I also suspect it was at least partly influenced by Revel, which has same sliders as Lightroom, but without the blacks & whites. Nevertheless, such formula so does not work for me, again: YMMV.
    =======
    Cheers,
    Rob
    Message was UPDATED by: Rob Cole

  • Dynamic range: NEED SOME HELP (any help i can g

    here's the reason i am here:so lately i've decided to dump the idea of playing movies on my xbox360 and started using my hometheater PC to play it. since it has a X-fi extreme Music on it. and i do like it better because the xbox360's decoder down samples everything to 640kb Dolby Digital 5.. i want to experience the full quality (if not as high as i can get) of Dolby Digital Plus, and DOlby True HD (both lossless soundstream), and the only way to do that these days are through HDMI or analogue output, since SPDIF nor Optical toslink can provide enough bandwidth required by both DD+ and TrueHD soundstream. so now you know the reason i am here. i do understand Xfi currently does not offically support DD+ nor TrueHD, but at least through the analogue output i believe i can get a better fidelity than my 360. here's my problem:like i said, the sound quality is MUCH better through the Xfi than the Xbox360's internal decoder. but i do havve one problem. because the dynamic range is so high, i find myself regulary adjusting the volume several times through the whole movie. so i started playing with the "Smart Volume" setting, since it alters the dynamic range by compressing it. the result is a HEAVILY compressed dynamic range which is not very ideal. because i can hear the level shifts when there's a high volume element followed by a low bolume element, i can hear a very unatural alteration. is there anyway to adjust the level of the dynamic range? because smart Volume only allows for "on" or "off", i wish there's a level slider. another side problem i just found out with my card is that, apparently, my card is a Dell's Xfi Extrmem Music card, that means i am missing the DOlby Digital EX audio console control, and the DTS ES audio console control panel. i understand that both supposely would allow me to adjust the dynamic range levels. i only found this out when i tried to look up the dynamic range option in Xfi on google and there're?A LOT of angry people who are missing those two features in their Extreme Music card. apparently it has to do with Dell's cost cutting strategy in which all their Xfi cards audio decoder are license from Sonic instead of creative, so hardware wise, there's no differnce. but at a software decoding level, there're som features missing. and the people who bought these cards from Dell are real pissed off because they speficied on their page that's it's an Xfi Extreme Music card just like the retail, what they shoud've done is putting the "Dell's" logo next to it stating it's a Dell's Xfi Extreme Music card, meaning some features might not be the same. anywho, i realize it's a lot to read, but i searched the forum and googled the net, can't find any solution. would it be possible for the next driver update to include a slider option for adjusting different levels of Smart Volume?thank you.Message Edited by howzz854 on 04-08-200704:50 AM

    and i forgot to list my hardware specs:?Athlon64 3200+ @2.6ghzGskill PC4000 2XGB ramGeforce7800GTXFI Extreme Music (Dell's crap_ missing some features that's suppose to be there in the retail versions)DFI NF4 Ultra-D moboDual 0,000 RPM (2 X 74GB)?WD raptors, 0 array, + 2 Maxtor 200GB (for storage)Enermax 600watt PSUNEC 6X DVD romToshiba external HD-DVD dri've?WinXP SP2?Message Edited by howzz854 on 04-08-200704:28 AM

  • What's the dynamic range of PCI-6289?

    Dear Sir:
    Could you tell me the dynamic range of PCI-6289?
    Is there any difference using PCI-4472 or PCI-6289 when measuring vibration signal?
    Thank you!
    Regards,

    Hello,
    The PCI-4472 would be best suited for vibration measurments. It has 24-bit resolution, Simultaneous Sampling, Hardware Time-to-Frequency Domain Conversion, 110 dB Dynamic Range, and hardware filtering. See the following Link for more details on the 4472: http://sine.ni.com/apps/we/nioc.vp?cid=10572〈=US
    The 6289 was not built with vibration analysis in mind, the the dynamic range is not spec'd.
    Let me know if you have any further questions.
    Sean C.

  • How does "High Dynamic Range" Photos work?

    I see that I'm getting two photos from each shot. I suppose that's because I tabbed "on" the selection to keep the regular photo.
    What's going on with "High Dynamic Range" photos and how can I tell which photo is the regular photo and which is the HDR Photo?
    Also, is that something new with iOS 8?

    You're welcome. Here's the HDR from the IOS 7 User Guide.
    “HDR
    HDR (high dynamic range) helps you get great shots, even in high-contrast situations. The best parts of three quick shots, taken at different exposures (long, normal, and short), are blended together into a single photo.
    Use HDR. (iSight camera on iPad 3rd generation or later) Tap HDR. For best results, keep both iPad and the subject still.
    Keep the normal photo in addition to the HDR version. Go to Settings > Photos and Camera.
    HDR versions of photos in your Camera Roll are marked with “HDR” in the corner.”
    Excerpt From: Apple Inc. “iPad User Guide For iOS 7.” Apple Inc., 2014. iBooks.
    This material may be protected by copyright.
    Check out this book on the iBooks Store: https://itun.es/us/fJctQ.l

  • How to create high dynamic range image in Photoshop Elements 2.0?

    I wonder if it is possible to Photoshop Elements 2.0. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    If you are talking about the idea of merging exposures IN ELEMENTS 2 and you are shooting RAW, you can do what Barbara suggests: Open the file once with favorable settings for the bright parts of the image and a second time for the shadows and merge. In Elements 2, the images will not open in 16-bit, and will be converted immediately to 8-bit. You will find that registration is right on, but there will be issues with the process if you want to retain higher bit counts (which to me is really the only way to have higher dynamic range in reality). I don't know where these started to be called 'high-dynamic range', and I think it is really a bit of a misnomer--especially in 8-bit. Even Elements 5 will not support 16-bit images with layers, so the opportunity to get true accentuation of dynamic range is...limited.

  • Dynamic Range in Premiere Pro CS5

    Dynamic Range in Premiere Pro CS5
    I'm working in Premiere Pro CS5 and I've been asked by the client to ensure that the "Dynamic Range" of the audio does not exceed 7dB.  In order to ensure this, should I use an audio filter such as a compressor?  If not, what is the best way to achieve this?
    Below is a link to the requirements:
    http://support.google.com/tvads/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=78931&topic=22413&ctx=topic
    Thanks,
    Mike S
    Macbook Pro 15", Intel Core Duo i7 2.2 GHz Quad Core, 8 GB RAM, 24" HP 2509b Monitor, M-Audio Fast Track to Yamaha MSP3 4" Powered Monitor Speakers,

    Dynamic Range in Premiere Pro CS5
    I'm working in Premiere Pro CS5 and I've been asked by the client to ensure that the "Dynamic Range" of the audio does not exceed 7dB.  In order to ensure this, should I use an audio filter such as a compressor?  If not, what is the best way to achieve this?
    Below is a link to the requirements:
    http://support.google.com/tvads/bin/answer.py?hl=en&answer=78931&topic=22413&ctx=topic
    Thanks,
    Mike S
    Macbook Pro 15", Intel Core Duo i7 2.2 GHz Quad Core, 8 GB RAM, 24" HP 2509b Monitor, M-Audio Fast Track to Yamaha MSP3 4" Powered Monitor Speakers,

  • Dynamic Range Slider

    Hello Everyone,
    I'm using line charts in my VC application and want to change the Y axis values from auto-adjust to dynamic range slider.
    The problem is that in my chart sometimes I have negative values, but the dynamic range slider doesn't allow me to set up a negative value as a minimum. It lets me set up a negative value as minimum, but after deploying it shows 0 intead of the minimum value.
    Like I want a dynamic range slider from -100 through 100, but after setting up this two values as minimum and maximum, after deploying it it shows me 0 through 100, so if I have negative values in my chart they aren't displayed.
    Is it a bug? Does anyone manage to set it up or used any turnaround?
    Thanks,
    Diogo.

    Hi there,
    I normaly use the auto-adjust, but I sometimes use two charts as comparison, and at the look of the eye, the lines from both charts seems much a like, but the scale changes, that's why I wanted a slider adjusted by the user so he/she could have a better comparison.
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    Do you have any idea how to use them to afect your chart scale?
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  • Can someone pls explain what the Dynamic Range setting does?

    Hello All,
    In the STB's Audio menu there's an option for Dynamic Range.  The available settings for Dynamic Range are None, Light, or Heavy.   I'm not noticing any difference in the sound regardless of the option chosen.   What is this option supposed to do?  

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dynamic_range gives you a bit of a winded explantion of what it is.  In a nutshell dynamic range is the difference between the quietest and loudest sound.
    I beleive the dynamic range setting is designed is to help users that have a certain connections (eg HDMI) deal with fluctationing volume.  Heavy compresses the highs and lows to a narrower range, light uses less compression and none of course is no change.  If you have trouble hearing some channels and commercials are loud you might want to try heavy.  Keep in mind that heavy distorts audio the most and none the least.
    My audio system is a Pioneer Amp with a Polk 5.1 speaker system.  I've noticed no difference but to be fair I don't think I've tried it under condtions that I would notice it.  In addition I'm currently using an optical connection for my audio which apparently doesn't change with dynamic range.
    There is a few other threads that discuss this including ....
    http://forums.verizon.com/t5/FiOS-TV-Technical-Assistance/anyone-else-having-problems-with-volume-ou...
    http://forums.verizon.com/t5/FiOS-TV-Technical-Assistance/Intermittent-Audio-Distortion-with-HDMI-ho...

  • Dynamic Range Compression

    Are there any DRC plug-ins or add-ons for iTunes or the Mac in general? I watch movies on my MBP, and in a lot of movies, the dialog is way too quiet compared to the loud bits.

    I'd suggest you look into Rogue Amoeba's Audio Hijack Pro. It can accept VST and Audio Unit plugins of which there are both compressor and limiter plugins available.
    There are other audio processors such as JoeSoft's Hear, but for just working with dynamic range I think Audio Hijack is the best tool.
    Regards.

  • Dynamic Range and Exposure

    Hi,
    This is slightly off topic, but I'm hoping someone might be able to shed some light on issues that I'm experiencing with noise and and posterisation in the shadow areas of shots taken in dimly lit situations. The effect is most noticeable on indoor portait shots - and is common despite correct exposure information in my Canon 5D. I understand the need to bias exposures towards the right of the historgram to ensure maximum dynamic range, but I'm finding this quite challenging to accomplish in practice, without blowing out the highlights.
    I'm using fast and expensive glass (e.g. EF24-70 F/2.8 L), and am lead to belive that the 5D has one of the best low light sensors around.
    No amount of tweaking in Aperture seems to help (e.g. Chroma Blur) - so I'm running out of ideas (I've tried a variety of ISO settings etc. on the camera). Is this a case of camera technique ? Should I surrender to the flash - or is there anything else I can try.
    Thoughts appreciated.
    Paul

    Hi Paul
    Do you have an sample image uploaded some ware that I could have a look at.
    I am making the assumption that you are shooting RAW. I am not studio based but have shot a lot of low light images with the 1D/1D MKII/s and I tested a 5D that I had on loan from Canon, the 5D is probably the best low light camera I have used so far.
    One trick you may wish to try is running your image trough Noise Ninja!! This seems to pull detail out of the shadows as well as cleaning the noise.
    Powerbook 1.5, PowerMac Quad, MacBook Pro   Mac OS X (10.4.8)  

  • Dynamic Range and Native ISO information

    I manage the mobile app "Formats" (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/formats/id890528993?mt=8), and I'm looking to find information on a number of Canon camcorders. In particular, I'm trying to verify the dynamic range and native ISO of the following cameras:  XF100XF200XF300 I called Canon customer service and was told they "dont publish that infromation". Can anyone help me? Thanks!

    zakray wrote:
    I manage the mobile app "Formats" (https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/formats/id890528993?mt=8), and I'm looking to find information on a number of Canon DSLRs. In particular, I'm trying to verify the dynamic range and native ISO of the following cameras:  5D Mk II5D Mk III6D7DT5i I called Canon customer service and was told they "dont publish that infromation". Can anyone help me? Thanks!Dynamic range varies depending on the definition used.You might want to check clarkvision.com.

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