E45-4200/Locking Cable

I cannot locate the hole to insert a locking cable into my laptop. I went to Best Buy and the guys looked at all the Toshiba Ultrabooks.....no one can find the hole to insert the locking cable. I'm traveling next week and want to secure my laptop.
Thank you in advance.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

After an exhaustive search, I found many ultrabooks do not have a Kensington slot (aka security slot) for a typical laptop lock. I think I am going to have to invest in one of the locks as shown below:
http://www.kensington.com/kensington/us/us/p/1479/K64994AM/microsaver%C2%AE%C2%A0ultrabook%C2%AE%C2%...

Similar Messages

MSI 4200 Locking Ups

Problem:
Installed new MSI 4200 v/c and now when I start any game that uses 3d graphics the entire system locks within 15-90 seconds . One of two things happens everytime - The screen freezes or the screen goes black and the sound continues. With my older v/c ASUS 7700 there are no such problems on this computer.......it is smooth
Setup:
-350 Watt power supply (bought today just in case old one was not strong enough)
-Gigabyte GA-7VRX with newest bios (R6)
-Athlon XP 1800+ CPU
-2X256 DDR RAM (PC2700 if I remember right)
-Dlink 10/100 NIC
-Creative LIVE Sound Card
-CDROM & CD-RW (Plextor)
-Windows XP pro with SP1 and all other updates
-Mcaffee retail 6 virus scanner
** Nothing over clocked or tweaked in the Bios **
So Far:
- Updated to Detonator 40.79 drivers (also tried MSI ones)
- Updated Via 4in1 drivers to 433V
- Added Via test Driver 1 (recommended by others on another site)
Please advise how to make this card work or tell me where and how to get a full refund. The retail store I got it from wants a 25% restocking fee if it is returned, which I'm not willing to pay because my older card is fine. So it is this MSI card or a compatibility issue and I meet all the base requirements and more.
Thank you,
Kent

Did you see the number?
Quote
If you contact Gigabyte at 626-854-9338 you can obtain an RMA # to have your board reworked. To my knowledge, they are not replacing motherboards for newer revisions. If you are adamant about getting your board replaced and not reworked, you should contact your vendor, but please do not expect the vendor to go beyond their normal RMA policies to rectify this issue. They just sell the board. They will end up having to send back a number of motherboards for reworking just like the end users.
I realise that the article is dated July of this year but you could at least see where it gets you.
Otherwise, pay the restocking fee. You could end up without your system for some time if GGBite allows the RMA. You then have to ask yourself if being without the board is acceptable. What is your downtime worth?
Man that really sucks :(

Is there a Security Lock Cable available for iPad?

The Kensington security cable used for Apple laptops connects through a specific port. Does that Kensington cable also work for iPad? If not, is there a security cable for iPad?

YES! I found this iPad Security Case for a design client of mine who was concerned about theirs getting stolen.
Tryten Technologies shows them here: http://www.tryten.com/Apple-Mac-Security-Locks/iPad-Security-Case
You buy the iPad Security Case and you just need a standard "Kensington-style" security slot lock (which they sell online) and it's now secure.
It's totally worth it compared to losing your iPad. Went online yesterday and pre-ordered 5 online because they are taking pre-orders right now.
I hope I was of help.

HP Spectre x360 Security lock/cable?

I recently bought a notebook security cable thinking that it would work with my new HP Spectre x360. I couldnt figure out where it goes though. Does the Spectre x360 not have a kensington lock port? My sister's HP has one and I thought mine would too. If it doesn't have one, is there an alternative to the kensington port that I can use to lock up my computer?

Unfortunately there is no security lock on the Spectre x360. Why HP made such a glaring omission on this wonderful ultrabook is beyond me.

Cable lock for ipod touch?

I need to physically secure my ipod touch to the desk in our coop gallery so it won't walk away. Targus had what looked like the perfect item, but they say it's not currently available. Any suggestions?

I need the same thing. Funny thing is, Apple has it, in their stores. A cable that has a little lock icon on the dock connector -they are using it to secure their ipads and iphones etc. Totally need this same thing. Too bad they don't appear to sell this cable - they probably don't want the unlocking mechanism to be made public. Sure could use me a locking cable though.
FWIW if a superstick thing on back doesn't bother you this might work - but then you still need to have a second power cable. Lame. http://www.maclocks.com/index.php/imac-locks/ipad-platelock.html

Msi g4 4200 64meg overclocking probs..

using xp pro as my OS. When I go into the msi tabs under display properties, and hit the tab to auto adjust the memory clock, the circle test runs into some kinda failure and therefore i cant adjust my memory clock. What gives and does anyone know how i can fix this. When i boot using 98se it works fine...i hate windows.
any advice would be greatly valued. i dont think i need to overclock this beast, but not being able to really bothers me
amd 2100+
msi k7n2
512m kingston 2700
creative 5.1 live
g4 4200
broadband cable connection
...who wants to smoke and who wants to get smoked.

scottyrox,
Download the latest Detonator4 Drivers from the nVidia Website. Install them.
Delete the file msicpl.dll from your windows directory.
Use notepad to make a new file and put in it what I quoted below and then save it with the .reg extension.
quote:
Windows Registry Editor Version 5.00
[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINESOFTWARENVIDIA CorporationGlobalNVTweak]
"Coolbits"=dword:ffffffff
"NvCplEnableAGPSettingsPage"=dword:00000001
"NvCplEnableAdditionalInfoPage"=dword:00000001
"NvCplEnableClearViewPage"=dword:00000001
That will open all the extra options in the Detonator4 Drivers including the Core and RAM Speeds for your GF4.
Take Care,
Richard

Can anyone tell me where to find a firewire cable that fits snug in a macbook pro?

I have tried many different 9-pin firewire 800 cables. All work there way out of the port on my 2010 Macbook Pro. It's very frustrating because it can ruin the data. Sometimes the repair doesn't work. Most of the time the drive goes offline. The best cable I've found is the firewire cable that came with my Western Digital Passport Studio drive. The cable has metal connectors. It seems to help keep the cable in the port better than any other I've found.
It's a shame that a firewire lock cable can't be designed for these computers to prevent this problem. Besides tape or glue, does anyone have a suggestion? Perhaps a better cable? The firewire cable that came with my Seagate free agent drive is also quite good. But that cable is proprietary to the drive.
Thank you for your help!
Paul

No one here knows what you have tried in the past.
The suggested solution was a possibility. One that some folks wouldn't think about. You have already ruled out a new cable as a solution 8 times.
My mixture of 9 pin FW cables are all snug to the fit - all appear to be different vendors.
My apologies for having made a 'foolish' suggestion.
MJ

What's the Best Securirty Lock for Powerbook?

I just got the new 17" PowerBook and am looking to buy the best security lock cable for it. I have read some posts before indicating some locks damaged their PowerBooks. I would appreciate your comments on your experiences and your recommendations. Thanks.

George,
There are a variety of locks out there so you can pretty much pick any one. Important to note is whether you want a combo lock or one with a key. For me I use a combo lock since it's one less key I have to carry on an already crowded key chain. Most locks come with plastic washers of various thicknesses. Do not discard these. Basically they are included because even though all lock slots are standard kensington, case designs vary. Some are thicker than others. The washers take up the slack in the lock so it mounts flush to the case. For the PB it provides a dual purpose as it keeps the metal lock from scratching the side of the PB case. I forgot to use mine the first time and I have a small half-circle scratch where the lock rubbed against the side of the PB case..'sigh', causing yet another blemish on my otherwise pristine PB. Oddly enough the only other blemish was also caused by my lock. I accidentally dropped it while standing over my PB and now there is this little pinhead sized gouge to the right of the trackpad near the SuperDrive slot.
Jrsy

Security lock is different from iBook G4?

I must have made a mistake in assuming that the security lock would be the same for both machines.
I switched from an iBook G4, and I can no longer use my old security lock cable. It isn't one of those cheapy Kensingtons, but it uses a real padlock (you insert a metal pair of 'scissors' into the slot, open them up to prevent being able to remove them, then put the lock through the hole in the 'scissors'). I'm sure there's a name for this lock style but I am unaware of what it is.
It worked flawlessly for my iBook G4, but it doesn't fit in my MacBook. I can barely get the 'scissors' to close, and when I do, they pull the plastic frame out, bending it.
Anyone else have this problem, or have a good, solid lock that they can recommend?

I have used a Kensington Microsaver which I have occasionally used with my previous compaq laptop, my old iBook G4 and my current MacBook without a problem.
I believe the standard for the lock is set by Kensington, so their locks should work with all notebooks.
I'm not sure which way the kensington lock is supposed to be insecure, but if you're referring to the 'pin tumbler bumping' lockpicking method, I believe the kensington should be unable to be picked this way. Then again, I'm no locksmith - and the lock is a bit unique.
As with most locks, the most important thing is to give the impression 'keep your hands off'. Notebook thieves don't want to raise suspicion by tampering with a lock at all.
Martin
MacBook 2GHz, 2GB RAM Mac OS X (10.4.8)

Security Cable - what works?

All suggestions seriously considered. What are others using?
Tim...
20" Intel iMac 2GRam/500G-HD, 13" BlackBook 2GRam/120G-HD, Black Vid iPod 60Gig Mac OS X (10.4.6)

A follow-up. I went to a large computer store and found an excellent security combination lock cable. Thanks to those who responded for the suggestion. I use it constantly.
The original post was inspired by an event in a local coffee house. I came in with my BlackBook over my shoulder and snug in a canvas carrying case. I noticed a young lady at a table with a new white Macbook happily typing away. I approached her and congratulated her on the new MacBook. With the eyes of a panicked deer she threw her arms around it. It was a replacement after her earlier purchase had been stolen 'right off the table'.
She retold her tale of how she was typing away when two hands reached from over her shoulder and grabbed her MacBook. The thief ran out the door despite her screams of theft. "Now I have this..." she said and pointed to a laptop security cable attached to her MacBook and to the table's iron pedestal. "but even with it I'm still very protective..."
So I thought it wise to get one myself.
Tim...
20" Intel iMac 2GRam/500G-HD, 13" BlackBook 2GRam/120G-HD, Black Vid iPod 60Gig Mac OS X (10.4.6)

Please help me decide on an all-in-one

Hoping to buy an all-in-one soon mainly for uni work. Will also be using it for general web browsing, youtube, watching movies, etc. No gaming.
These are my options so far. If anyone could please help me decide it would be much appreciated as I am just a student and don't have that muh money.
Just thought I'd also add that I'm located in Australia and the prices below are in AUD.
Lenovo E73z 20" All-In-One $899 (directly from Lenovo Australia)
http://shopap.lenovo.com/au/en/desktops/thinkcentre/all-in-ones/e73z/]ThinkCentre
Processor
Intel® Core™ i5-4430S Processor (6M Cache, up to 3.20 GHz)
Operating system
Windows 8 64 bit
Display type
20.0" All In One HD+ 1600x900
System Graphics
Integrated Intel HD Graphics
Total memory
4GB DDR3 1600MHz SDRAM
Hard drive device
500GB / 8GB SSHD
Optical device
DVD Recordable
Bluetooth
Bluetooth 4.0 (included with WiFi module)
Lenovo m92z 20" All-In-One $899 on eBay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lenovo-ThinkCentre-M92z-All-in-One-20-Desktop-PC-Intel-i5-500GB-4GB-Win-7...
Processor
3rd Generation Intel® Core™ i5
Operating System
Windows 7 Professional 64
Memory
4GB (DDR3)
Storage
500GB (7,200 rpm) SATA
Form Factor 20.0"W AIO
Display
20.0" wide LED 16:9 (1600x900) – non-Touch only
Graphics
Intel® HD graphics
Webcam
2.0MP HD
Audio
2 3W Integrated Speakers
Digital Array Microphone
Optical Drive
Slim DVD-ROM/Slim DVD Recordable
I/O (INPUT/OUTPUT) Ports
Side
2 USB 3.0
Microphone jack
Headphone jack
Rear
4 USB 2.0
1 PS/2 and COM Port(optional)
1 Display (input)
1 Display (output)
WiFi Connectivity
IEEE 802.11a (5GHz)†
IEEE 802.11b/g/n (2.4 GHz)
Bluetooth® 4.0
Keyboard
Ultra Slim Plus Wireless Keyboard (optional)
Lenovo Preferred Pro Full Size Keyboard
Lenovo Preferred Pro Fingerprint Keyboard† (optional)
Mouse
Ultra Slim Plus Wireless Mouse (optional)
Enhanced Optical Wheel Mouse (USB)
Physical Security
Kensington Lock
Cable Lock
Intrusion Switch
Ethernet
Integrated 10M/100M/1000M Gigabit Ethernet†
Lenovo m92z $600 + $30 shipping (SSD included)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-Lenovo-All-in-One-ThinkCentre-M92z-20-i3-3240-4GB-RAM-128GB-SSD-Windo...
Operating system: Windows 7
Processor: Intel® Core™ i3-3240
Chipset: Intel Q77 chipset
Memory: 4 GB RAM
Display: 20.0" wide LED 16:9 (1600x900)
Graphics: Intel® HD graphics
Webcam: 2.0MP HD
Internal Drive: 128 GB SSD
Power Supply: 150W 85 plus
Optical Drive: Slim DVD-ROM/Slim DVD Recordable
Standard I/O Ports: 2 x High speed USB 2.0 (Front)
4 x high speed USB 2.0 (back)
2 x audio connectors (microphone and headphone) on front panel
1 x integrated VGA port
2 x audio connectors (audio line in and audio line out) on rear panel
1 x RJ45 connector
Pretty good price I think. Not sure how much of a difference the SSD will make.
Last option: Lenovo C560 (Import from the US) $700 + $77.42 intl shipping
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Lenovo-C560-All-in-one-Computer-Intel-Core-I3-I3-4150t-3-Ghz-57327365-/39...
BTS 2014 - Lenovo C560; Mainstream AIO; 23" 16:9 LCD w/ LED backlight 1920x1080 (FHD); Intel Core i3-4150T 2 cores 3.0GHz 4 threads 3M cache H81 chipset 35W; 6GB 1600MHz DDR3 SoDIMM; 1TB 3.5" 7200rpm; Intel HD Graphics 4400; DVD Rambo; Windows 8.1 64bit; 802.11BGN 10/100/1000M Bluetooth 4.0; 2x 3W speakers Dolby Advanced Audio V2; USB Keyboard Black; USB Optical Mouse Black; 4x USB 2.0 2x USB 3.0 HDMI out 6 in 1 card reader (SD SHC SDXC MMC MS MS-Pro) Kensington lock headphone jack microphone jack; Black w/ Graphite Stand
Biggest screen out of the 4, not so great i3 processor (don't know if it makes much of a difference), plus risk of shipping from US and the product potentially having probems working in Australia in terms of compatabiliy, or for whatever reason..

Toruk_Makto wrote:
If you want peace of mind I vote against imported C560. I am not sure C560 has worldwide warranty as first. It seems Idea and value AiO are not sold in Australia, so spare parts availability might be an issue in any case.
It looks nice, but overall engineering, cooling and (mechanical) parts quality is way behind ThinkCentre (M and E series).
If you are student, you can buy E73z at educational pricing directly from lenovo - the first option costs 863 or so then, not 899. If you will use it just for "normal" work, then i3 might be just fine (it is 100$ cheaper). Any M92z is also good choice (just CPUs are one generation old)
The M92z is now on sale on ebay for the next three days for $539. That is a heck of a deal assuming it is not refurbished. The only negative as Toruk mentioned is the processor is one generation old. But I have an i5 processor in an M90z and I use it for the exact same things mentioned in the original post in this thread. I don't have any issues.
The E73z is on sale on the Australian Lenovo website right now for $799. It comes with everything probably neede including an i3 processor.
http://shopap.lenovo.com/au/en/desktops/thinkcentre/all-in-ones/e73z/
Machine Type: M90z AIO ; Product: 3091CTO (Custom), CPU: i5-650, Video Card: Intel(R) HD Graphics, Memory: 4.00 GB,
Network Card: Intel(R) WiFi Link 1000 BGN, OS: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit

Connecting External Amp to Macbook

Hi, sorry if this is one of those "dumb" questions, but I know Macs well but not electronic equipment...
I have a multi-media show that needs some BIG sound to it. In the past, I've hooked up my office speakers to my Mac, but that just doesn't cut it. I have a pretty nice Roland piano amp, is there a way to hook that up to the Macbook, and what would I need? Or if I could score a nice PA amp like a JBL, could I hook that in somehow? What would I need to do on that?
Thanks for any help.
Mark

FWIW, I am a live performance sound mixer by trade & I have had very good results using the 1/8" stereo jack audio output on my new Macbook to connect it to a large, professional audio system of about 20,000 watts. However, keep these tips in mind for best results:
1. Garbage in = garbage out. IOW, use high quality audio sources wherever possible. A highly compressed MP3 audio file will never sound as crisp & detailed as a 24 bit, 96KHz AIFF file, & the differences will be much more noticeable on a high quality, high power playback system. If you use iTunes to import CD tracks, make sure you set the import preference to "Apple Lossless." Better still, use an app like Audacity to import the tracks or other source material directly into a high quality AIFF format. Do any necessary mixing in that uncompressed format & only compress the final mix if necessary to make it compatible with your presentation playback format.
2. Do not directly combine the left & right signals in the stereo mini-jack to get a mono signal. For instance, don't use a stereo-to-mono adaptor plug (which really is suitable only for splitting a mono signal into two outputs, regardless of what the guy at Radio Shack or wherever tells you). Instead, use a specially designed adaptor with resistors in it that isolate the two outputs, or (much!) better still, use a mixer with separate inputs for each channel.
3. You can also use just one channel of the stereo signal, as described in another post, but keep in mind that hearing only one channel of a stereo signal may not sound right. Avoid using a mono 1/8" plug in the stereo jack if you do this. This will short out one of the channels. It won't damage the Macbook, but it may introduce a noticeable amount of distortion in the channel you use. Instead, get an adaptor with a stereo 1/8" plug that splits the channels into separate outputs & use just one of them. (If you are using a musical instrument amp, you can use a 1/8" stereo plug to two 1/4" jacks adaptor & a standard 1/4" to 1/4" patch cable.)
4. Set the Macbook's audio output level to near maximum & leave it there. Never try to reduce its output to adjust the volume of the attached system -- you will just increase the hum, noise, & residual distortion of the output relative to the signal. If you are using a mixer, it will have an input gain control or "pad" switch that can be used to match the output of the MacBook to its input requirements. If you are using a musical instrument amp, use an input designed for synthesizers or other similar devices if available. If you must use a guitar input, you should obtain a "pad" adaptor that reduces the signal strength by about 20 dB. Basically, the MacBook outputs a "line level" signal, so your playback equipment should be capable of handling that without having to turn down its primary or channel volume controls to nearly off to keep from overdriving anything.
5. To avoid stress & strain on the MacBook's jack, use an adaptor cable rather than a one-piece adaptor that results in a long, inflexible plug & adaptor combination hanging off the side of the MacBook. If you need to use a security lock & cable in the MacBook's security slot, you will have to avoid the fat, solid adaptors anyway, since the slot & jack are closely spaced. (If you use a typical security cable with a rotating locking head, also be careful not to allow it to rotate around & apply side pressure to the plug.)
6. Use good quality cables & adaptors. You don't have to spend a fortune on over-priced "audiophile" cables because the MacBook's audio outputs are low impedance, relatively high current ones quite capable of driving normal, run-of-the-mill cables, but you do have to have good connections to insure a clean signal. Mostly, this is a matter of using mechanically well-made plugs & jacks with good contact materials, not the construction of the cables themselves.

Macbook Pro or Macbook Pro with Retina?

I have been looking into buying my first Mac computer and definitely want one of the Macbook Pro lineups. I am looking for a 15 inch prefferably but is spending the 300-400 extra dollars to get the 15" Retina Macbook Pro worth it? I'm certainly no professional photographer or anything however i do like to do digital drawing as a hobby. I use my computer for more than 8 hours a day doing school, playing games and also watching various video such as Youtube and Netflix. Does the Retina model make that much of a difference? I would appreciate some pros and cons for the models and your opinion on which one you think i should get! Thanks!

It is really simple. Go to an Apple store where they have both systems and you can see them side by side to compare. You are the only one who can tell if the Retina display is important enough to you to pay the extra money.
Do keep in mind that when you buy a MBP with Retina, that the RAM and storage are "fixed" in that you can not upgrade tehm later, you would need to sell your current system and purchase a new one to get more capacity. Also, the Retina model does not have an optical disc, and since you will be at school, it does not have a lock port, so most of your computer lock cables will not work with it. The non-retina system does have the optical drive, the RAM and HDD/SSD are considered user upgradable, and it does come with the lock port. For most people, if you don't need the Retina display, the upgradability options are a better choice.

What Is Small Hole On Back Of 2013 iMac?

I was looking over my new 2013 21.5" iMac, and see a small hole on the lower center back side, just below the AC plug inlet. Having looked at it closer, it just passes through to the air vent below it (I can pass small folded paper strip through the hole and out the vent below it).
I'm curious to know what this hole is for. Maybe just a necessary manufacturing hole of some sort, and nothing to do with any "function" of the iMac's cooling? Does it also appear on the previous 2008-2012 iMac's too?
I would like only those that actually know what this small hole is there for, or what "purpose" it performs.
Please do not respond with any wild quess .... only respond if you really know (iMac tech, Apple employee, someone in-the-know, etc.).
Thank you.

In looking over the Kensington site, it looks like they have actually re-designed a new cable lock system to fit the 2013 iMacs .... it's designed to lock at the round hole on the base stand, and not using the small hole on the back of the iMac (as I indicated):
Kensington - iMac® - SafeDome Secure ClickSafe® Keyed Lock for iMac
New 2013 iMac stands can't be removed from iMac main display unit
(like previous 2008-2012 iMac models could).
The small hole on the back of the new 2013 iMac is no doubt there for those still using the "older kensington style" locking cables and connectors.

Does Anyone Make a Security Device for the Apple TV?

My workplace has a "media room" open to everyone. We recently acquired an AppleTV to connect to the AV system, and people love it.
The thing that worries us is how portable the AppleTV is. It'd slip very neatly into someone's pocket, never to be seen again. I checked, and was disappointed to find that there's no lock cable slot on the unit, so we can't just secure it that way. I've been Googling, but no matter what terminology I use, I get articles about the security of the AppleTV software, hacks, patches, and that sort of thing, absolutely nothing about securing the hardware.
Has anyone seen anything that would help keep our AppleTV fixed in place, please? Links would be appreciated.

you should be able to hook it to any stereo with a 3.5mm Aux input, using the appropriate cable.

E45-4200/Locking Cable

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for