E51 DTMF - surely there is a way to just push a ke...
Hi,
I have a new e51. It seems that the only way to "press 1 for sales" etc. is to go through a series of options and pick "send DTMF". What is going on? Surely it should be possible just to "press 1", no? This doesn't make any sense to me! Is there any reason such a simple procedure has been complicated?
Many thanks,
Paul
Make with Warp
Make with Mesh
Also with Warp
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I want to download a previously purchased album that had an "error" and isn't complete. I have an older Mac and don't have iCloud. Surely there is some way to get the music I paid for!
Hi,
See this http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2519
Jim -
I've recently lost lots of data and purchases due to Iphone 4 crashing... Surely there is a way to recover "lost" music, apps, and audiobooks which I PURCHASED from ITunes in the last 1.5 months...? Greatly appreciate any suggestions or direction in this matter!
Note: Previously purchased music is only available through iTunes in the Cloud in Australia, Canada, Cypress, France, Ireland, Luxembourg, Malta, Mexico, New Zealand, Spain, the United Kingdom, and the United States."
Downloading past purchases from the App Store, iBookstore, and iTunes Store -
I have two apple accounts, but can only access one. I did all the steps to recover the older account's password but nothing worked. I need to access the older account to update apps. Also would there be a way to just combine both accounts?
Were you able to reset the account's password ? If not then how did you try to get it reset e.g. http://iforgot.apple.com (which would have sent it to the rescue email address if you have one on that account) ? You can also try contacting iTunes Support in your country to get it reset : http://support.apple.com/kb/HT5699
And no, accounts can't be merged nor content transferred between accounts. -
My desktop PC recently crashed and I'm trying to recapture all of my iTunes library playlist and songs. I was able to successfully capture the library, however when I tried to play a song, all have the exclamation mark "!" on them and ask that I locate the song. I successfully located some, but there has to be an automatic way to do this, rather than finding each one. I have thousands of songs located in multiple folders of my exteernal hard drive and need a way to find all songs automatically. Can someone help? Thanks!
This "original file cannot be found" thing happens if the file is no longer where iTunes expects to find it. Possible causes are that you or some third party tool has moved, renamed or deleted the file, or that the drive it lives on has had a change of drive letter. It is also possible that iTunes has changed from expecting the files to be in the pre-iTunes 9 layout to post-iTunes 9 layout,or vice-versa, and so is looking in slightly the wrong place.
Select a track with an exclamation mark, use Ctrl-I to get info, then cancel when asked to try to locate the track. Look on the summary tab for the location that iTunes thinks the file should be. Now take a look around your hard drive(s). Hopefully you can locate the track in question. If a section of your library has simply been moved, or a drive letter has changed, it should be possible to reverse the actions.
Alternatively, as long as you can find a location holding the missing files, then you should be able to use my FindTracks script to reconnect them to iTunes .
tt2 -
Computer is now downloading to real tunes rather than itunes and i cant find a way to change that. any ideas? fslocumb
3.2 you can make multiple clocks, each clock can have a different alarm.
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Can someone please tell me how to get those songs if I even can. I do not want to have to rebuy these songs that I already payed for
Hello Olivia,
Thank you for the details of the issue you are experiencing with your iTunes purchases. It sounds like you may have been looking in the Account Information page, but there is a separate Purchases section you can download the songs from.
I recommend downloading your purchases directly to your computer using the Purchases page in the iTunes Store using these steps:
Download previous iTunes Store purchases to an authorized computer
Click iTunes Store near the top of the iTunes window.
Click the Purchased link at the right of the iTunes Store homepage (below Quick Links).
In the page that appears, select a category.
iTunes shows you which of your purchases are available for download. You can view all of your past purchases, or just the ones not currently in your iTunes library. Items already in your library aren’t available for download. If you select Music, you can view your purchases by song, artist, or album. If you’re viewing by album, click an album to see which songs on it are available for downloading.
To download all available items, click Download All.
iTunes 11 for Windows: Download previous purchases from the iTunes Store
http://support.apple.com/kb/PH12491
Additionally, you can download the songs to your iPhone using the steps in the section titled "iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch" in this article:
Downloading past purchases from the iTunes Store, App Store, and iBooks Store
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht2519
Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
Best,
Sheila M. -
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You can try contacting Apple and explain that you have been using Windows PCs that last only a few months before failing. Perhaps they will make an exception to the 12 month wait.
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Is there a good way to update album art directly on my ipod?
Hi, new here.
So I have an ipod nano 5th gen: 16GB.
I have ~1500 songs on it and have been facing a slew of interesting issues with my album art.
1. I prefer to add songs manually as I tend to want only some of an artist, genre, or similar, and I like the control it gives me. The problem that I've been having is that there is no efficient way to add artwork to the songs / albums on my ipod that I have ripped from CDs, and are already on my ipod. Going through all my songs and seeing if they have art would be tedious and time consuming, and the only better way to do this seems to be deleting songs off of my ipod and re-copying them. Normally, I would just delete all my songs and re-copy them all, and go do something else for half an hour or so, but there are some songs on my ipod that may not even exist on my computer anymore, and I can't get them again. Is there a better way to just synch songs with the ones in my library and update those that have had art added? (The synch button at the bottom of the ipod tab / window doesn't seem to do that.)
2. At one point, I tried manually adding artwork to albums using Wikipedia images / etc, and I know that many people like to put their own artwork for their albums. The problem I had is that adding the artwork directly to the album only updated the firts track, and the rest still had the big note on them. Is there a way to adress this and make it apply the picture to the whole album?
3. When I was finally able to update my images because they required an apple id, and I didn't have a credit card to give, the custom images on the albums stayed. Is there a way to override this? The artwork that was downloaded looks better then what I had.
I know this is a lot, but I think these questions are related enough.
Thanks in advance for any help!See this older post from another forum member Zevoneer covering the different methods and software available to assist you with the task of copying content from your iPod back to your PC and into iTunes.
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/2452022?start=0&tstart=0
B-rock -
TS1368 don't have PC right now - is there any other way to synch my iPod with iTunes?
This is likely a dumb question but I need to ask...
I am in between PC's, meaning I don't currently have a home computer (actually looking to purchase a MacBook but not for another 1-2 months). I want to synch my iPod with the music we've been purchasing via my iPad.
I am figuring it is possible to go to a friend's house and use their computer to access my iTunes account and synch...is there any other way? Just asking, just in case...
Thanks so much!The only way to clear off the passcode is to restore the device. You could always try the restore process on another computer that has iTunes just to get the iPod working again, then you could plug it back into your comptuer to sync all of his content back on the iPod.
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Just want to replace some video with photos, but LEAVE AUDIO THERE. No way?
Is there no simple way to just replace some video with other video or photos, but not affect audio? I have an interview, and they're talking about places, and I want to put in photos of the places. Pretty basic stuff.
Thanks for whatever help...OK, yeah, CUTAWAY. But, I have the audio "purpled". Should it be? And my photo is sitting ABOVE the place where I want it. How do I get it to go down where it's supposed to? I really need a step-by-step here. I see how to manage the duration of the cutaway, but I don't see how to actually get it INTO the track, and how to "un-purple" the audio track.
Thank you! -
I just purchased a MacBook Pro off of someone. They left a lot of their information on it, email, photos and all that. Is there an easy way to just delete everything on it and start fresh?
Before buying a second-hand computer, you should have run Apple Diagnostics or the Apple Hardware Test, whichever is applicable.
The first thing to do after buying the computer is to erase the internal drive and install a clean copy of OS X. You—not the original owner—must do that. Changes made by Apple over the years have made this seemingly straightforward task very complex.
How you go about it depends on the model, and on whether you already own another Mac. If you're not sure of the model, enter the serial number on this page. Then find the model on this page to see what OS version was originally installed.
It's unsafe, and may be unlawful, to use a computer with software installed by a previous owner.
1. If you don't own another Mac
a. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.4 or 10.5, you need a boxed and shrink-wrapped retail Snow Leopard (OS X 10.6) installation disc from the Apple Store or a reputable reseller—not from eBay or anything of the kind. If the machine is very old and has less than 1 GB of memory, you'll need to add more in order to install 10.6. Preferably, install as much memory as it can take, according to the technical specifications.
b. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.6, you need the installation media that came with it: gray installation discs, or a USB flash drive for a MacBook Air. You should have received the media from the original owner, but if you didn't, order replacements from Apple. A retail disc, or the gray discs from another model, will not work.
To start up from an optical disc or a flash drive, insert it, then restart the computer and hold down the C key at the startup chime. Release the key when you see the gray Apple logo on the screen.
c. If the machine shipped with OS X 10.7 or later, you don't need media. It should start up in Internet Recovery mode when you hold down the key combination option-command-R at the startup chime. Release the keys when you see a spinning globe.
d. Some 2010-2011 models shipped with OS X 10.6 and received a firmware update after 10.7 was released, enabling them to use Internet Recovery. If you have one of those models, you can't reinstall 10.6 even from the original media, and Internet Recovery will not work either without the original owner's Apple ID. In that case, contact Apple Support, or take the machine to an Apple Store or another authorized service provider to have the OS installed.
2. If you do own another Mac
If you already own another Mac that was upgraded in the App Store to the version of OS X that you want to install, and if the new Mac is compatible with it, then you can install it. Use Recovery Disk Assistant to prepare a USB device, then start up the new Mac from it by holding down the C key at the startup chime. Alternatively, if you have a Time Machine backup of OS X 10.7.3 or later on an external hard drive (not a Time Capsule or other network device), you can start from that by holding down the option key and selecting it from the row of icons that appears. Note that if your other Mac was never upgraded in the App Store, you can't use this method.
3. Partition and install OS X
a. If you see a lock screen when trying to start up from installation media or in Recovery mode, then a firmware password was set by the previous owner, or the machine was remotely locked via iCloud. You'll either have to contact the owner or take the machine to an Apple Store or another service provider to be unlocked. You may be asked for proof of ownership.
b. Launch Disk Utility and select the icon of the internal drive—not any of the volume icons nested beneath it. In the Partition tab, select the default options: a GUID partition table with one data volume in Mac OS Extended (Journaled) format. This operation will permanently remove all existing data on the drive.
c. An unusual problem may arise if all the following conditions apply:
OS X 10.7 or later was installed by the previous owner
The startup volume was encrypted with FileVault
You're booted in Recovery mode (that is, not from a 10.6 installation disc)
In that case, you won't be able to unlock the volume or partition the drive without the FileVault password. Ask for guidance or see this discussion.
d. After partitioning, quit Disk Utility and run the OS X Installer. If you're installing a version of OS X acquired from the App Store, you will need the Apple ID and password that you used. When the installation is done, the system will automatically restart into the Setup Assistant, which will prompt you to transfer the data from another Mac, its backups, or from a Windows computer. If you have any data to transfer, this is usually the best time to do it.
e. Run Software Update and install all available system updates from Apple. To upgrade to a major version of OS X newer than 10.6, get it from the Mac App Store. Note that you can't keep an upgraded version that was installed by the original owner. He or she can't legally transfer it to you, and without the Apple ID you won't be able to update it in Software Update or reinstall, if that becomes necessary. The same goes for any App Store products that the previous owner installed—you have to repurchase them.
4. Other issues
a. If the original owner "accepted" the bundled iLife applications (iPhoto, iMovie, and Garage Band) in the App Store so that he or she could update them, then they're irrevocably linked to that Apple ID and you won't be able to download them without buying them. Reportedly, Mac App Store Customer Service has sometimes issued redemption codes for these apps to second owners who asked.
b. If the previous owner didn't deauthorize the computer in the iTunes Store under his Apple ID, you wont be able to authorize it immediately under your ID. In that case, you'll either have to wait up to 90 days or contact iTunes Support.
c. When trying to create a new iCloud account, you might get a failure message: "Account limit reached." Apple imposes a lifetime limit of three iCloud account setups per device. Erasing the device does not reset the limit. You can still use an iCloud account that was created on another device, but you won't be able to create a new one. Contact iCloud Support for more information. The setup limit doesn't apply to Apple ID accounts used for other services, such as the iTunes and Mac App Stores, or iMessage. You can create as many of those accounts as you like. -
Boolean to String - surely there's an wasy way!
How do i convert a boolean to its String represetation?
This is how I do it:
boolean primitiveBool = false;
Boolean objectBool = new Boolean(primitiveBool);
String booleanAsString = objectBool.toString();
Surely there is a shorter more efficient way?
Thanks.boolean bool = true;
String asString = "" + bool;I think better would be Boolean.toString(boolean) or
String.valueOf(boolean) as you're not creating an
extra, unused String object.Plus a StringBuffer object.Moreimportantly (IMAO), the code is more directly expressing your intent. "Give me a String representation of this boolean" vs. "Give me a String that is a concatenation of the empty string and the string representation of this boolean." -
Because I only have satellite internet available to me, I have to download YouTube files in my download window. Several times now, one or two of maybe five or six files, all being downloaded simultaneously *to the same directory*, will abort with an error message "<filename> could not be saved because an unknown error occurred. Try saving to a different location". However, you don't get a chance to save it to a different location, the whole damned file has to be downloaded again from scratch. This is actually with IceWeasel 17.0.10, a thinly-disgusided version of Firefox 17 LTS, running on 64-bit Debian 7.1 multihome.
I realise this may be a plugin problem rather than a Firefox problem, I'm not sure of the exact relationship between the two, but I'm using TubeEnhancer 2.6 to do the downloads.
Whatever the 'unknown error' might be (and it's not a permissions problem, other videos being downloaded at the same time will save correctly to the same directory!) it seems beyond belief that it's not possible to give the user a chance to save the file somewhere else, as the error message suggests. It's so frustrsting to have to go through the whole download process again. Surely Firefox is storing a copy of the file on the hard drive as it downloads, is there really no way that this can at least be recovered when the error occurs, even if it's not possible for some reason to give the user a second chance to pick a directory and filename?OK, so I tried disabling the other addons and (I'm sure this is coincidental!) the problem actually got WORSE, not better, i.e. more aborted downloads.
This is a long-standing problem with both Firefox and Thunderbird, both programs will happily tell you *during* the download process that they've downloaded X MB of Y MB, but if the download aborts, then there's no indication that it's done so on the dowload page. All that is needed is to retain that expected download size figure when the download has terminated, so that you can easily see whether unattended downloads completed or not.
Yes, I suppose those of us who have to use satellite internet services are in the minority, but the only hours when I can download anything are between 0200 and 0700 my time, and I do like to get SOME sleep at nights! -
EXIF Dates - how to add/change using exiv2 . . . is there a better way?
Hi, everyone!
INTRO: I'm new to Lightroom. I've gone through a few books and lots of tutorial courses on lynda and youtube, so I feel quite comfortable with LR 5's import process. This post and question is a pre-import/organizational issue.
I have more than 30,000 old, digitized (scanned) photos dating back to the 1950s. Obviously, most of were taken with old, analog cameras. These are now organized into folders by date.
GOAL: I want to import these photos into LR and be able to find them by metadata dates (Capture Date & Time).
PROBLEM: Obviously, old scanned (or even more recent manipulated) photos often don't have the correct EXIF creation date info. Even worse, many (or most) of these old images don't even have an EXIF date field!
WHAT I'VE LEARNED: Using exiv2 filename or evix2 -pt filename immediately shows whether there is or is not date info for the photo. If there isn't, exiv2 -pt filename shows nothing. If there is an EXIF date field, it will be shown.
For all these images with no date field, if I import them into Lightroom, there of course is no date info that shows up in the Metadata panel (under Default or EXIF), nor can you change the date (because the field isn't even there).
If exiv2 -pt filename DOES show the Exif.Image.DateTime field, then in Lightroom, you will see the Capture Time and Capture Date fields, and you will see an icon to the right of those dates that allows you to change that date.
If exiv2 -pt filename DOES NOT show this Exif.Image.DateTime field, you can ADD this field by using the command line:
exiv2 -M"set Exif.Image.DateTime Ascii 1965:01:25 15:45:00" filename (or whatever your date/time is).
Now if you import this image into LR, you will find the Capture Time and Capture Date fields under the Metadata > Default panel...AND you can edit them if needed. That is, the above exiv2 -M command added the EXIF date field that LR needs in order to search by date.
WHAT'S MY POINT, AND WHAT'S MY QUESTION? I have no problem using exiv2 to add/change an EXIF creation DateTime field one folder at a time prior to importing them into LR. This will enable me to search on those date fields**.
My question is this: Is there an easier method?
Surely there must be tens (hundreds?) of thousands of "older" photographers like myself who have troves of old photos that have incorrect EXIF creation date fields, or missing the date field entirely (in which case, as I stated above, cannot be added/edited using LR, PS, FileMultiTool, Graphic Converter, etc.).
I realize that I could look at images based on the folder names or file names, or I could enter dates into tags, but such methods of finding images are not nearly as convenient as using Metadata. Therefore, if I know that an image was taken in June 1962, then I'd like the EXIF metadata to have this info so that I can search on it. To have no EXIF date field or to have a date field that is incorrect is useless.
I'D LOVE YOUR COMMENTS! If there is an easier or better way, I'd love for you to help! There are so many experienced photographers on this forum, and more than likely many of them have old photos with incorrect or missing EXIF date fields that they've brought into LR.
THANKS! I'll really appreciate any and all help you can offer.
David
** there are other EXIF date fields that can be changed using exiv2: Exif.Photo.DateTimeOriginal, Exif.Photo.DateTimeDigitized, etc. But the principal date that LR uses to search for files is the one described above.
P.S. I've also tried jhead -ds1965:01:25 filename (or whatever your date is) to change the date. This works ONLY IF there is already an EXIF date field present. If not, jhead will report an error and not create one. exiv2 -M will create the field.John,
Thanks very much for your help! I had tried the plugin, exiv2, exiftool, and LR's Metadata menu option only on a single photo.
You are 100% correct about LR's menu option assigning different times! Thank you for pointing this out.
When I set the date and time for about 10 photos, LR's menu option assigned (seemingly random!) times to all of them. Why would LR do this? I can perhaps see offsetting each photo by 1 second (00, 01, 02,...), but simply assigning random times makes no sense at all. At least in the tests I just did, LR didn't shift the time by the same amount, but assigned totally (random?) times to every photo.
Another problem that I found with the LR menu item is that it failed to change the date/time at all for several of the images I selected! The Capture Time To Exif plugin, exiv2, and exiftool had no problem at all with the same photos.
I also looked at the ExifMeta by Rob Cole that you mentioned. It looks very powerful (and is free), but much more complex than what I need at this point.
Therefore, I purchased the Capture Time To Exif plugin, and it works great on multiple photos.
I now have good methods to change the date for multiple images:
1. Prior to import: exiv2 or exiftool
2. After import: John's Capture Time To Exif plugin
Thank you again for your help!
This brings me one step closer to importing my photos in a logical method.
David
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