Early 2011 MacBook Pro: Purchase or Hold Off

Thinking about purchasing a 15" 2011 MacBook Pro to replace my 2009 MBP. My 2009 has worked flawlessy but I'm really interested in the new graphics/speed capabilities of the 2011. Probably faster than the 2007 MacPro I had. I'm hesitant because of all the issues I've read on the forum about overheating, display problems when connected to a 24" LED display (which I have) and freezes. Hard to gauge if these problems are as wide-spread as noted on the forum. Are the problems as prevalent as everyone is saying? Are there users out there not experiencing problems? Not sure if I should wait until a fix or revision is pushed out.
Here's what I'm think of getting:
15-inch: 2.2 GHz or 2.3 GHz with 8 GB of RAM; 500 GB 7200 RPM; Hi-Res Glossy Widescreen.
Be curious as to what people are going to recommend: purchase or wait.
Thanks in advance.
Tom

Hi,
I've the same configuration Mac but with 128GB SSD. I'm experiencing lot of issues (check my thread here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=2784633&tstart=0), but not sure whether everyone facing all these issues.
My suggestion is wait few more weeks until Apple resolves at least some of these issues. I can't return my product since I exceeded 14 days return policy. So repair is only the option.
WAIT for new hardware builds...

Similar Messages

My Early 2011 Macbook Pro Continues to shut off at random

I own an early 2011 Macbook Pro, 4GB RAM, intel 3000 384mb graphics, 250gb SATA hd. I now have OS X 10.8.2 and my macbook randomly shuts off and its not just once or twice a day. It is more along the lines of over 20 times a day. Can somebody give me some advice to resolve this issue? I used mackeeper and ran every scan and I went to disk utility and repaired the drive. I don't know what else i could possibly do. This issue is making me wish i never bought this mac. The macbook is great and all but now i can't even use it because it shuts off at random. I can't enjoy the macbook if i have to use it in fear that it will shut off at any moment. Can someone please help me with this issue quickly?

If you have Apple Care or are still under warranty, give them a call and get a case number. Otherwise, take the computer to an Apple store or an AASP. Whichever is more convenient for you.

My 17", early 2011 MacBook Pro won't turn off..

I select "Shut Down", then the actual "Shut Down" button on the dialog, the screen goes to light grey (as usual) but it never actually turns off. I have to press the physical on/off button for 6+ seconds to get the machine to actually go quiet.
I have OS X Version 10.9.1 installed and everything is up-to-date. This started a few days ago. When restarting (which I tend to do twice a day on average not liking to leave any machine running unnecessarily) I get the message "You shut down your computer because of a problem" and asks if I want to open applications that were open before etc. Several times I have tried using "Force Quit" before starting the shut down procedure to ensure that NO applications were active apart from Finder but to no avail.
Is there maybe a Preference file I should delete? Anything else I should look for? Some log file somewhere that might point me in a useful direction...?
Many thanks in advance for any help, Brian.

Panic's over - this https://support.apple.com/kb/HT3964 took care of it after a couple of attempts.

Early 2011 Macbook Pro shuts off when charger unplugged. Worked fine yesterday.

Hi,
I have an early 2011 Macbook Pro, which I purchased brand new; it's just over one year old. Yesterday the laptop held a charge no problem for 6 hours or more. Today, when I disconnect it from the charger it goes to sleep. When I plug it back in and press the power button it wakes up, and I can use it.
This cannot be a battery issue, since it was holding a charge without trouble yesterday. Does this appear to be a serious issue? My one year warranty expired 2 months ago yesterday, and I had forgot to purchase AppleCare. Sigh. It almost seems like surgically-planned obsolecense or punishment for not purchasing AppleCare.
I would immensely appreciate any help/suggestions on this.
Thanks.

OK, in that case:
Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
Do the following:
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install the Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.
Upgrading to Lion or Mountain Lion will not solve the problem.

Early 2011 MacBook Pro shutting off all by itself

Early 2011 MacBook Pro 11" shutting off all by itself recently.
I had the logic board replaced 11 months ago because it started to shut off more and more until it refused to boot up again.
Now I am going through the same problem. Is this common?

OK, in that case:
Reinstall OS X without erasing the drive
Do the following:
1. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions
Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button. When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list. In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive. If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the installer.
If DU reports errors it cannot fix, then you will need Disk Warrior and/or Tech Tool Pro to repair the drive. If you don't have either of them or if neither of them can fix the drive, then you will need to reformat the drive and reinstall OS X.
2. Reinstall Snow Leopard
If the drive is OK then quit DU and return to the installer. Proceed with reinstalling OS X. Note that the Snow Leopard installer will not erase your drive or disturb your files. After installing a fresh copy of OS X the installer will move your Home folder, third-party applications, support items, and network preferences into the newly installed system.
Download and install the Mac OS X 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1.
Upgrading to Lion or Mountain Lion will not solve the problem.

Early 2011 MacBook Pro- The thermal paste discussion.

It is my goal to clear up the questions and concerns Apple customers have been having regarding heat or fan related concerns with Early 2011 MacBook Pros. If your MacBook Pro was produced within the last few months the thermal issue has been resolved and it will likely not be in issue for you. If you are still wondering if your computer is effected or what the real issue is keep reading.
The MacBook Cools itself by 2 main methods: active and passive. The active cooling is via a fan that blows air through a heatsync and into a tube called a heat pipe which leads to the back of the computer where the hot air is discharged through a vent at the bottom of the screen behind the hinge. The fan lowers the air pressure inside the case causing outside air is drawn in the case, displacing the hot air inside and helping to cool the other components.
The computer uses passive cooling to remove the residual heat from the processor which comes mostly in the form of radiant heat. Passive cooling is also used to cool the other components of the computer (memory, disk drives, battery etc). Passive cooling works by conductive heat transfer ie. syncing to the case of the computer. Some of the heat then is radiated. Some of it is transferred from the outside of the case via convective cooling; the foot pads on the bottom cover are designed to raise it up just enough to allow air underneath for convection to occur. (Convection is the process in which hot air to rises and is displaced by cooler air.) The rest of the heat from the bottom cover is absorbed by whatever surface you have the computer on.
The processor will not sync to the case very much if the board is assembled properly however the other components of the computer will, requiring the case to be in open air to allow for passive cooling to take place.
If you have some sort of covering such as a plastic snap on case it will likely interfere with passive cooling in all of it's 3 of it forms, this will cause the computer to be abnormally hot. I recently saw someone in the Apple store with a MacBook Air experiencing abnormal heating due to a plastic snap case so this particular problem is not unique to MacBook Pros and it is not the cause of the issue being discussed here. I do not recommend the use or anything that covers the computer while it is running with the exception of something that covers the back of the display panel only. If you are worried about your computer getting damaged go and buy a laptop insurance policy from Worth Ave group. The insurance does not cover cosmetic damage or misplaced items but will cover accidental damage including spills. This insurance also covers theft, vandalism and natural disasters, is quite inexpensive and the claims process and deductible is similar to most phone insurance plans (which they also offer).
User induced overheating can also occur when the computer is placed on an improper surface such as a couch cushion, car seat, bed, pillow etc. Doing this can interfere with both passive and active cooling.
As I mentioned earlier In all likelihood if your computer was produced after May it is not affected. I personally have been in posession of 3 MacBook Pros, one produced before May which had the problem, one after which had no problems and one produced more recently that has mind blowing thermal performance way beyond all of my expectations.
So the question at this point is exactly what is the problem, how can it be diagnosed and how can it be rectified.
After extensive research and testing I have determined the issue to be related to improper application thermal paste. I involuntarily became involved in this pursuit as a result of the problems I was experiencing and I did not initially come at from an objective viewpoint but rather one of cautious skepticism. I had anticipated before purchasing my computer that there may be a thermal issue. This anticipaion came as a result of reading an article on ifixit.com about the disassembly of the brand new early 2011 MacBook Pro. When the technician performing the disassembly removed the main heat sync he expressed concern about how much much thermal paste was present, expressing that it seemed excessive. This lead the technician to question wether or not it would cause heating problems.
Proper application of thermal paste is critical to the functionality of the active cooling system and when applied improperly will not properly transfer the heat to the heat-sync which in turn gets cooled by the fan. Proper application of thermal paste insures the heat is removed from the case as efficiently as possible. Doing this both reduces the speed at which the fan needs to run in a lot of situations and prevents too much heat from the processor needing to be cooled by passive means. If is is not applied properly it will eventually lead to overheating of the case as well as the other components of the computer. This can cause damage firstly to the computer's battery and can also significantly shorten the life computer. (Or any other kind of electronic device for that matter.)
The problem can be diagnosed by testing the computer using a program called System Load or any other software that will put your computers proscessor use up to its maximum and keep it there indefinitely. Placing full load on your GPU at the same time during the test is also recommended. Keep in mind, if you are using your computer the fan will spin up if needed for additional cooling. You should expect the fan go up to its maximum speed during the test, it is not in of itself an indication of a negative result. Make sure to have the computer plugged in, fully charged and on a proper surface. A desk or other flat surface should be fine. Exceptions would include the top of a refrigerator since it has insulation just underneath the metal exterior or any surface that is heated by any means such as a dryer or other appliance.
(The temps to follow are in ºF)
Run the test for up to 1 hour. If the case of the computer breaks 93 degrees your unit is likely affected. Expect the unit to even possibly reach temps approaching and exceeding 100º, if this happens immediately abort the test. Also look for the processor temp shooting up to around 180 in the first 30 seconds and the fan spinning up right away. Typically on a properly functioning unit the temperature of the case will end up being somewhere in the neighborhood of 88-91º. If this test is preformed in a room with a normal ambient room temperature of about 68 degrees. Even after an hour the case of the computer should not be significantly hot, just warm to the touch. On a normally operating unit the fan will start to kick in within 90 seconds or so and may not reach full speed even after several minuets.
At one point the case of my computer actually reached 95º during normal web browsing.
This is a problem that I have had successfully corrected twice by reapplication of thermal paste. The first time was on a machine produced prior to may and the second was after a logic board was replaced at the repair depot. (I suspect the inventory turnover is lower for boards than whole computers resulting in a board from the initial production run being installed in my computer.)
If you forget everything I just wrote remember this. #1 if you are using your computer hard enough the fan will end up running at high speed at some point. #2 This problem is not in any way related to the design of the MacBook Pro, or its use/application. #3 This mostly not a problem of the CPU being too hot; these Sandy Bridge CPUs are rated for 212ºf and will routinely be in the neighborhood of 200º, this is hotter than other chips but well within design limits. #4 I have done everything in my power to make sure that this problem has been corrected and I have every logical and evidenced based reason to believe it has been resolved in machines produced after may. #5 This is not an Apple acknolidged issue. Technicians will tell you that there is no problem because these higher temps are normal and within operating limits and if they weren't the machine would shut itself off. (This is a bit extreme; just like a lot of other devices such as electronics, toaster ovens and space heaters with thermal overload protection this automatic shutoff is intended to occur when damage or risk of fire is imminent because the device is WAY outside of normal operating paramaters.) They will also not tell you when asked what these limits are, that they know what they are or in some cases that such figures they even exsist.
I stake my personal and professional reputation on the accuracy of my findings, it is my job as a private consultant to help my clients to resolve complicated and expensive issues just like this one.
Bottom line if you are having a problem and Apple won't fix it on warranty don't ditch your machine, just pay to have it done yourself. In most cases you can pay have it done at the Apple store. It will probably cost you less than 100.00, and it will not void your warranty as long as the work is done by Apple certified technician. It will be well worth it; after all in spite of this MacBook Pro's are hands down the best portable computers on the market, with an industry leading warranty and support to back it up. On it's worst day Apple's service and support is better than any computer/ consumer electronics company, even on its best day.
I hope this helps to clarify this issue! I also hope it will help anyone affected to resolve the problem instead of resorting to a refund and settling for something else.

hello all
you can try this:
Go to system preferences > settings > built in display > see bottom of window.
check "show mirroring options in the menu bar when available". then click "airplay display" > and select your device.
That's what happened to my MBP - 15-inch, Late 2011 model.

My early 2011 Macbook Pro on start up has wifi, but drops it soon after and never comes back, AHT shows nothing wrong. Multiple wifi's tried and same on all.

My early 2011 Macbook Pro on start up has wifi, but drops it soon after and never comes back, AHT shows nothing wrong. Multiple wifi's tried and same on all. I have also re-installed OSX from scratch and still happens.

I have the same problem. I have a white macbook 2010, with mavericks os. I just found my mac not powering on and then I tried to run it on safe mode by holding the shift button but it will turn off seconds after I let go of the shift button. I am able to access the desktop and use it while holding the shift button the whole time. It's a bit slower than before but I figured maybe it's because of holding down shift button.
I went to the Apple Store to have them look at my mac and I was told it's a failed hard disk. I wasn't told why he was able to conclude that a failed hard disk is causing the problem, I was just told to get a replacement. But the thing is when I ran Disk Utility it says, "disk appears to be okay." So I also feel like it's possible it's not a hard disk issue because it's also the first time it happened. My mac was working perfectly fine before all this.
Do you know anything else that could cause this problem? Were you able to find out what's wrong?
Thanks.

Is there any way to make a snow leopard partition on an early 2011 MacBook Pro that was upgraded to Lion, without the original boot disk?

So I have an early 2011 MacBook pro, I believe it shipped with snow leopard originally, as I purchased and upgraded to Lion fairly early on. I am trying to make a partition right now and have it run snow leopard so I can use programs that have PowerPC.
I should note, I replaced both the RAM and the harddrive in my Macbook pro. I changed from 4 GB of ram (that came shipped) to 8 GB of ram from a 3rd party, that I installed on my own months ago, have registered in the computer and have been working fine for quite some time now.
Also I should note I replaced my harddrive. I went from what ever the standard 500 GB harddrive that shipped with 15 inch early 2011 MB pro's. I now have a 3rd party SSD that's 240GB's that I also installed on my own, (at the same time as the RAM---Black friday items) The harddrive has been working just fine since then.
In installing the harddrive I borrowed a friends external harddrive and used a program called carbon copy cloner to get everything over to the SSD.
Now here is my issue. I have ordered the Snow Leopard (10.6.3) install disks from apple, I have created a partition on my SSD for snow leopard, but when I try to select the install disc for snow leopard at boot I get three beeps.
I know this issue has been posted elsewere but it said answered and the answer is no longer available. I also am unsure if any of the RAM or Harddrive swapping could have been causing the issue. I have the old harddrive and RAM still, but unfortunatley have no external harddrive anymore or money to afford one.
Is there any way I can install a partition that runs snow leopard on my early 2011 MB pro with what I have (new SSD, New RAM, Current version Lion running, no external drive, lack of original snow leopard disks [I lost them ] and the general 10.6.3 snow leopard boot disks).
Let me know If there is anything I can do. I'm a now broke college student so i'd like to spend as little $$$$ as possible
*PS I should also note the DVD drive is working fine, it reads the disk, the disk is brand new, it plays DVD's fine and has never had any issues in the years i've used it for similar tasks*
sorry for the long drawn out post, I just wanted to include as much as possible from what I've seen other people have issues with

BrettGoudy wrote:
...Is there any way I can install a partition that runs snow leopard on my early 2011 MB pro with what I have (new SSD, New RAM, Current version Lion running, no external drive, lack of original snow leopard disks [I lost them ] and the general 10.6.3 snow leopard boot disks)...
As the last post suggests, call Apple and order a replacement original disc for about $17. They will ask you the model and serial numbers.
Your retail version of Snow Leopard OS 10.6.3 will not work on that Mac as it requires a minimum of OS X 10.6.7 to boot and operate.
Another alternative is to again borrow another Mac to install your retail Snow Leopard into an external HD or partition, upgrade it to 10.6.8 and then clone it back to a partition on your MBP.

Early 2011 MacBook Pro logic board upgrade question

I have an early 2011 MacBook Pro 17'. Will a late 2011 logic board fit in the unibody of an early 2011? My logic board crashed and I'm looking to install a new one myself. I just need to see if I can upgrade mine at all. I want to purchase a logic board with a faster processor and hopefully not as prone to the GPU failure. Any recommendations?

You have the problem discussed in a number of discussions on this forum, most notably here -> https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4766577?tstart=0.
Basically the GPU in the machine was poorly soldered onto the logic board. If you take the machine into an Apple Store, they will recommend a logic board replacement. This, however, will not permanently fix the problem. The only permanent fix is to have the GPU 'reballed' - this will cost about $160 and some services offer up to a year's warranty on their work.
I had the problem back in January and, as I was under AppleCare, had my logic board replaced gratis. Once I'm left with no warranty, I will have the GPU reballed.
Take a look at some of the discussion and see some of the photos which are just like yours. The only remedy is the reball.
Good luck,
Clinton

Early 2011 Macbook Pro - Black screen at random

I have an early 2011 Macbook Pro, running Mac OS X (10.7.5). Seemingly at random, the screen will go black and the only way to get it back is to hold the power button down. When it turns back on, everything is running as normal. It's been happening more and more frequently, so I'm wondering is this a problem I can fix on my own? Can it be fixed or is it just a glitch I should just deal with?
(Please explain everything to me as if I were a 5-year-old)

Early 2011 15" Macbook Pro.
Add me to the long list of customers experiencing display issues. HUGE problems with a blank screen when waking from sleep and difficulty starting up (video glitches & hi fan speed). After about 6 months and 2 genius bar visits I finally did a complete HD wipe/clean install of Mavericks with all of the default settings.
The situation has improved only slightly overall, but at first things were great. I was confident I had it licked.
As I restored apps & profile settings things start to get wonky. The last install I did was Picasa (I thought this app was the culprit before the wipe). I successfully restored my Picasa settings and all was fine. I even closed the lid and when I opened it the next day the screen came right back on. Then I tried to sync my iPhone and BAM! Screen goes out and the system is hung (no response to keystrokes or sound events).
Power button shutdown.
Restarted and the Macbook hung as the previously opened apps reopened.
Power button shutdown again.
Restart this time was normal and everything opened just fine. The console logs show NOTHING indicate any issues or that the machine experienced a kernel panic or anything like that.
It's been 1 whopping 36 hours since my clean install and I've already crashed twice.
But now I use my Macbook with anxiety as I never know when it's going to crap out again. Maybe it's time I switch back to Linux on an inexpensive wintel laptop as I won't buy another Apple laptop if this is the what I should expect from a $2000 machine.
Incidently, I also have a 2010 MB pro which had dispaly issues and Apple replaced the logic board at no cost (out of warranty) as part of a replacement program. I've seen MANY forum posts suggesting that Apple should step up and provide the same level of service for the Early 2011 MB Pros... I tend to agree.

Problems with early 2011 MacBook Pro 13" 2.7 GHz / OWC Mercury Extreme Pro

*Has anyone else experienced issues getting their OWC Mercury Extreme Pro SSD working in the early 2011 MacBook Pros?*
I am having difficulties getting OS X installed on the new OWC Mercury Extreme Pro 240 GB. When I install the SSD in place of the factory HDD and boot from the 10.6.6 reinstallation DVD the SSD is not visible to the installation program. If I quit the 10.6.6 installer and run Disk Utility (from the 10.6.6 installation DVD) the SSD is not visible. If I quit Disk Utility and run System Profiler (from the 10.6.6. installation DVD) the drive is visible and firmware and serial numbers are displayed. So like the drive is visible to OS X but the installer / Disk Utility can not see it.
If I put the SSD in an external USB enclosure it is visible - I can format the drive and copy files to it.
I also tried installing the SSD in place of the factory HDD, putting the HDD in a USB enclosure, booting from the OS X installation on the HDD and running the OS X installer from the 10.6.6 DVD. I was able to select the SSD as the target for the installation and the initial file copy was OK, but when the laptop restarted during the installation the SSD would not boot. The grey folder icon with the flashing question mark was displayed instead. Holding down Option while booting only gave me the option to boot from the DVD.
I also tried resetting the NVRAM and SMC of the MacBook Pro - this did not resolve the issue.
I spoke to OWC support who said they did not know of any compatibility issues with the new MacBook Pros and suggested I request a replacement.
The firmware version of the SSD is 350a13f0

This is my exact problem. I have had 2 of these drives so far and both of them have had the same problem with installation internally. The first one I was able to get operational using the method you described, ie: put the OWC SSD in an external case (FW800 was my choice) and install it there. But I encountered the sleep issues, so I sent it back for a replacement.
The second drive I was finally able to install using the second method, but now the computer regularly locks up. So I'm going to call again and hopefully the third try will work.
Just to clarify. The first drive had sleep issues, but had the older firmware. The second drive had the newer firmware (360 I think it is) and didn't have the sleep issues, but locks up while running.
I'm so irritated on how many hours I've spent on this issue. And their support department, though very nice, wasn't helpful at all. It's as if they never heard of this problem.

Can i install OS X Snow Leopard on my Early 2011 MacBook Pro 13' ?

Hi guys , just wondering can i install on my Early 2011 MacBook Pro 13'' OS X Snow Leopard ? i dont like Lion at all . Many Thanks .

You may be able to install SL 10.6.8 (assuming there was no firmware update) if you follow these directions. Check with MacTracker http://mactracker.ca/ and download their free app detailing more info you ever thought you needed to know about Apple products.
- you can re partition partition the mac drive so that you can retain the pre-installed lion install
- or use an external drive
- attach your computer via firewire 800 to a Mac computer (capable of running 10.6.8 )
- boot the your computer holding down the T key to get it into target disk mode, it will appear on desktop as an external drive.
- install SLS v 10.6.3 Retail version from the DVD onto the new partition or external drive where you want Sl installed.
- install the 10.6.8 combo update.
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1399
- Install Thunderbolt Software Update (Snow Leopard) v1.0
http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1452

Is Recovery Disk Needed for Early 2011 MacBook Pro (A1278)

Early 2011 MacBook Pro (A1278)
I'm planning on putting in a new hard-drive (SSD) after a little scare with my factory hard-drive and the mounting bracket coming loose.
The plan was to open it up, install the hard drive, restart with Command-R held down, enter OS X Recovery, and finally restore from my Time Machine back-up.
However... I've heard that my model may not have the ability to enter OS X Recovery without a DVD that was shipped with the hardware. First, is this true? When I had issues with the current hard drive, I was able to use Command-R to enter OS X Recovery. It even appeared to have me connect to the internet and looked like it downloaded the application. Does that indicate that I should be able to do that again? Or did that get pulled from the hard-drive somehow? Second, if I need a disk - I did NOT get a disk from Apple when I purchased my device from the store. I do NOT throw things away (I have all the little inserts and everything still in the box, even the receipt). Can I obtain this disk from Apple for free?

The Early 2011 MacBook Pro supports 16 GB of RAM, although Apple says it only supports 8 GB of RAM.
You can buy more RAM at OWC or Crucial > http://eshop.macsales.com/shop/memory/Apple_MacBook_MacBook_Pro/Upgrade/DDR3_133 3MHz_SDRAM You can find memory compatible with Macs in other sites, but I recommend those two sites because you can be sure that the RAM will be compatible.
If you need help installing memory > http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1270

How can I connect my Early 2011" Macbook Pro 13" inch, with a generic Mini Display Port to HDMI connector, to a LG 32LD340 LCD TV, using Mountain Lion 10.8.2?

I have an Early 2011" macbook pro 13 inch (core i5 2.3ghz 4gb ram 320hdd) with Mountain Lion 10.8.2, and I want to connect it via Mini DP to HDMI connector, and a HDMI cable to a LCD TV LG 32LD340. When I had Lion OS, I had no problems at all.

If you have an external drive equal to or larger than your internal HD, clone your internal to it with either Carbon Copy Cloner or Super Duper. Test the clone to make sure it's bootable. Then upgrade either one. Try it out first.

I have an early 2011 MacBook Pro which has been running slow for a while. After looking at responses to similar problems I have downloaded and run EtreCheck and will post the output. Please can someone help me with what it all means.Thanks in advance

I have an early 2011 MacBook Pro which has been running slow for a while. After looking at responses to similar problems I have downloaded and run EtreCheck. Please can someone help me with what it all means.
Thanks in advance.
EtreCheck version: 1.9.15 (52)
Report generated 19 September 2014 08:07:14 GMT+8
Hardware Information: ?
MacBook Pro (13-inch, Early 2011) (Verified)
MacBook Pro - model: MacBookPro8,1
1 2.3 GHz Intel Core i5 CPU: 2 cores
4 GB RAM
Video Information: ?
Intel HD Graphics 3000 - VRAM: 384 MB
Color LCD 1280 x 800
System Software: ?
OS X 10.9.4 (13E28) - Uptime: 0 days 0:4:29
Disk Information: ?
Hitachi HTS545032B9A302 disk0 : (320.07 GB)
S.M.A.R.T. Status: Verified
EFI (disk0s1) <not mounted>: 209.7 MB
Macintosh HD (disk0s2) / [Startup]: 319.21 GB (147 GB free)
Recovery HD (disk0s3) <not mounted>: 650 MB
MATSHITADVD-R   UJ-898
USB Information: ?
Apple Inc. FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in)
Apple Inc. BRCM2070 Hub
Apple Inc. Bluetooth USB Host Controller
Apple Inc. Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad
Apple Computer, Inc. IR Receiver
Thunderbolt Information: ?
Apple Inc. thunderbolt_bus
Gatekeeper: ?
Mac App Store and identified developers
Kernel Extensions: ?
[not loaded] com.seagate.driver.PowSecDriverCore (5.2.4 - SDK 10.4) Support
[not loaded] com.seagate.driver.PowSecLeafDriver_10_4 (5.2.4 - SDK 10.4) Support
[not loaded] com.seagate.driver.PowSecLeafDriver_10_5 (5.2.4 - SDK 10.5) Support
[not loaded] com.seagate.driver.SeagateDriveIcons (5.2.4 - SDK 10.4) Support
[loaded] com.sophos.kext.sav (9.1.55 - SDK 10.7) Support
[loaded] com.sophos.nke.swi (9.1.50 - SDK 10.8) Support
Launch Daemons: ?
[loaded] com.adobe.fpsaud.plist Support
[loaded] com.microsoft.office.licensing.helper.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.autoupdate.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.configuration.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.intercheck.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.notification.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.scan.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.sxld.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.webd.plist Support
[running] com.trusteer.rooks.rooksd.plist Support
Launch Agents: ?
[loaded] com.divx.dms.agent.plist Support
[loaded] com.divx.update.agent.plist Support
[running] com.sophos.uiserver.plist Support
[running] com.trusteer.rapport.rapportd.plist Support
User Launch Agents: ?
[loaded] com.adobe.ARM.[...].plist Support
[running] com.amazon.music.plist Support
[loaded] com.google.keystone.agent.plist Support
[not loaded] jp.co.canon.Inkjet_Extended_Survey_Agent.plist Support
User Login Items: ?
iTunesHelper
TomTomHOMERunner
AdobeResourceSynchronizer
Dropbox
Internet Plug-ins: ?
FlashPlayer-10.6: Version: 15.0.0.152 - SDK 10.6 Support
DivX Web Player: Version: 3.2.1.977 - SDK 10.6 Support
AdobePDFViewerNPAPI: Version: 11.0.09 - SDK 10.6 Support
AdobePDFViewer: Version: 11.0.09 - SDK 10.6 Support
Flash Player: Version: 15.0.0.152 - SDK 10.6 Support
EPPEX Plugin: Version: 10.0 Support
Default Browser: Version: 537 - SDK 10.9
OVSHelper: Version: 1.1 Support
QuickTime Plugin: Version: 7.7.3
SharePointBrowserPlugin: Version: 14.4.4 - SDK 10.6 Support
iPhotoPhotocast: Version: 7.0 - SDK 10.7
Safari Extensions: ?
Ultimate
Audio Plug-ins: ?
BluetoothAudioPlugIn: Version: 1.0 - SDK 10.9
AirPlay: Version: 2.0 - SDK 10.9
AppleAVBAudio: Version: 203.2 - SDK 10.9
iSightAudio: Version: 7.7.3 - SDK 10.9
iTunes Plug-ins: ?
Quartz Composer Visualizer: Version: 1.4 - SDK 10.9
3rd Party Preference Panes: ?
Flash Player Support
Perian Support
Trusteer Endpoint Protection Support
Time Machine: ?
Skip System Files: NO
Auto backup: YES
Volumes being backed up:
Macintosh HD: Disk size: 297.29 GB Disk used: 160.38 GB
Destinations:
Data [Network] (Last used)
Total size: 2 TB
Total number of backups: 99
Oldest backup: 2012-04-20 17:05:32 +0000
Last backup: 2014-09-18 23:49:25 +0000
Size of backup disk: Excellent
Backup size 2 TB > (Disk size 297.29 GB X 3)
Time Machine details may not be accurate.
All volumes being backed up may not be listed.
Top Processes by CPU: ?
      6% InterCheck
      5% iCalExternalSync
      3% WindowServer
      2% CalendarAgent
      2% SystemUIServer
Top Processes by Memory: ?
152 MB SophosScanD
147 MB InterCheck
106 MB SophosAntiVirus
66 MB Dropbox
57 MB com.apple.iTunesLibraryService
Virtual Memory Information: ?
161 MB Free RAM
1.55 GB Active RAM
1.41 GB Inactive RAM
902 MB Wired RAM
611 MB Page-ins
0 B Page-outs

Uninstall Trusteer software
http://www.trusteer.com/support/uninstalling-rapport-mac-os-x
Remove Sophos
https://discussions.apple.com/message/21069437#21069437

Early 2011 MacBook Pro: Purchase or Hold Off

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