Edit 2 sided flier
I'm a novice user of Indesign CS6. I've made my away around pretty well, thanks to all of the forums and help guides. However, I'm stumped by one thing. I've downloaded an IND file created by an outside source that I'd like to modify. It's a two sided flier. I've had great luck editing one side, but I cannot find the other side. What am I missing or overlooking?
Please delete all of your personal info when replying by email...
Window > Pages. Do you see two page icons in the lower half? If you do you should be able to scroll to the second page or double-click on it.
Similar Messages
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Final Cut Pro 5: How do i delete the preference files
Wen trashing prefrences, out of Final Cut Pro Obj Cache and Final Cut Pro Prof Cache what one do i trash?
Oddly enough, according to Apple's Knowledge Base article (for FCP 5), the answer is neither. <shrug> (this must be new for FCP 5)
Once you're done with that, go ahead and download FCP Rescue - graciously hosted by Patrick Sheffield - so you don't have to get your hands dirty the next time you're forced to do this.
edit: beaten to the punch by Mr. Sheffield!
Message was edited by a flying monkey who types too slow. -
Reconciliation between two sources
I have two tables A and B. There are around 5 crore records in table A. In table B i have a column called id. In all there are 25 ids and there are 6000 records for each id. So in total there are 150000. I want to join all the 5 crore records of table A with all the records for each id in table B one by one. i.e. 5 crore join with 6000 of id 1; then 5 crore join with 6000 records of id 2 and so on... can u please suggest a solution with optimized performance as it is a performance critical case?
Unless your join is on columns that represent a unique key in atleast one of the tables, you will find that your result contains duplicates*.
This is because SQL is multiset based and not set based.
SQL is supposed to be declarative. In that if you want to join tables A, B on columns x,y,z then you just do so, and leave the optimiser to worry about the "optimal implementation".
We all know in practise that this isn't the case, and this is why there are always clowns writing bad code and well paid jobs to fix the circus SQL.
However in a join between two tables, especially one not involving unique keys, there is no logical optimisation, although you will additionally to DISTINCT your result which will degrade performance further.
I suggest you revisit your table design and try to get some unique constraints on there, so that the optimiser may be enabled to do it's job for you and you may leverage the innate power of the set.
*unless of course either of the tables is empty, or contains only one row. Or the join columns happen to represent an unenforced unique key, in which case you'd better get an actual constraint on there before someone breaks it.
Message was edited by:
The Flying Spontinalli -
Premiere 7.2.1 white noise with Audition import
I'd edited an audio clip in Audition and was reconnecting the clip in Premiere. I played the clip in my timeline and it blaseted my ears at full volume with white noise. I tested the symptoms a couple more times before the clip refreshed and the sound went back to normal. Took about 30 seconds from when I reconnected to when the issue resolved itself.
I think I'm going to go make some coffee while my ears recover. And in the meantime, I'm going to be more careful when playing new things in my timeline. But at this rate, I'm going to need hearing aids before I turn 40.I've been experiencing the same issue mattslote has described. Like OP, the clip eventually "refreshes" and plays normal instead of as white noise. For me, the "refreshing" took several minutes to occur.
My process was clicking on a clip in the timeline, choosing "Edit clip in Adobe Audition," saving the edited file in Audition as *file name* Audio Extracted.wav, and playing back the clip now with replaced audio in the timeline. I experienced the same issue last night, of the replaced audio playing back as white noise. However, last night the clip did not ever "refresh" after a period of twenty minutes or so (during which I did clear the cache), so I deleted the new audio from the timeline. I did not delete the edited audio .wav flie, which played normal in an audio player program.
Clip specs:
Type: MXF
File Size: 527.9 MB
Image Size: 1920 x 1080
Frame Rate: 23.976
Source Audio Format: 48000 Hz - 16 bit - Stereo
Project Audio Format: 48000 Hz - 32 bit floating point - Stereo
Total Duration: 00:01:25:12
Pixel Aspect Ratio: 1.0
MXF File details:
Wrapper type: MXF OP1a (type: SingleItem SinglePackage MultiTrack Stream Internal)
File generated by: CANON, XF100 (1.00)
MPEG-2 422 Long-GOP
Sequence specs:
Timebase: 23.976fps
Video Settings
Frame size: 1920h 1080v (1.0000)
Frame rate: 23.976 frames/second
Pixel Aspect Ratio: Square Pixels (1.0)
Fields: No Fields (Progressive Scan)
Audio Settings
Sample rate: 48000 samples/second -
Studip question....which requires a simple answer......
If I have a variable defines as:
l_count NUMBER(6,0)
What is the maximum precision (or number) allowed before the 06502 - Number precision too large error is thrown??
thanksIt's annoying.
Because
(1) the way Oracle document this.
(2) inconsistency in how this works
Oracle say:
NUMBER[(precision,scale)]
Where:
"precision is the total number of digits"
"scale, which is the number of digits to the right of the decimal point."
Which of course is not the correct definition of precision and scale.
However to answer the question:
NUMBER(precision) -- same as NUMBER(precision,0)
NUMBER(6,0)
SQ> declare
2 v_number NUMBER(6,0);
3 begin
4 v_number := 100000;
5* end;
15:54:06 SQL>/
PL/SQL procedure successfully completed.
SQL>declare
2 v_number NUMBER(6,0);
3 begin
4 v_number := 1000001;
5 end;
6 /
declare
ERROR at line 1:
ORA-06502: PL/SQL: numeric or value error: number precision too large
ORA-06512: at line 4
However, you not that although "scale" is set to "0" then you do not have equivalent scale overflow:
1 declare
2 v_number NUMBER(6,0);
3 begin
4 v_number := 1.1232323232423423423;
5 dbms_output.put_line(to_char(v_number));
6* end;
15:55:13 SQL>/
1
PL/SQL procedure successfully completed.
added:
You know I say "this is not correct definition", by which I mean "not the accepted/mathematical" definition.
Of course as in many other area, Oracle are free to define these things how they like.
I just mean that if you have some understanding alread of this concepts, then it can be confusing/misleading that Oracle chose not to observe accepted standards on these definition.
Now I await ensuing flame war, and possible rebuttal using wooden furnitures and the like.
Message was edited by:
The Flying Spontinalli -
I am switching from AVID Xpro with Mojo to FCP for most of my future projects. I am making the switch for various reasons, but one element that has me worried is the quality of slo mo in FCP. I do a lot of sports and good slo mo is important. AVID does a great job compared to FCP. Could I be doing something wrong? It looks blurry or ghostly in FCP. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks much.
Yeah, FCP's internal slo-mo gets poor grades. Though it takes longer, try using Compressor (version 2) to do your slo-mo work, as detailed in this thread:
Compressor for Slow-mo gives fantastic results...
Message was edited by a flying monkey, to fix the [broken] link -
How do I get rid of dried water marks and dirt from photos taken through Airline windows?
I recently bought Photoshop Elements 5. I use it to process mostly Aviation photographs that I take as a hobbyist. I have a Windows PC and use XP Media Center Edition. When flying around the world, I usually take photos of airports, aircraft and scenery through the window of the aircraft that I am on. Most times the windows on commercial airliners are dirty, scratched up, have sun glare or have dired water marks. Is there a way in PS Elements 5 or other PS software to remove the layer containing the window of the aircraft so that what is left is the beautiful picture I am trying to take? If it is possible, can anyone be kind enough to show me how on a step by step basis or point me to books, texts or tutorials where this topic is covered?
Thank you
Ken.> Is there a way in PS Elements 5 or other PS software to remove the layer containing the window of the aircraft so that what is left is the beautiful picture I am trying to take?
Not on this planet. Image data from a camera is on just one layer - whether it's what you want to photograph or stuff that got in the way.
You could certainly retouch the photo to improve matters, but that can be a lengthy process requiring a lot of practice and skill. -
New to HD Editing and CS, building a PC to suit requirements of HD edit. Experienced help wanted :-)
Firstly let me say hi and thanks in advance to all that read and assist with my questions
A Bit about me..
I have recently acquired the need for video editing at a much higher level with both having a family now (baby daughter) and a very active hobby (rc heli flying at a sponsored level). With this in mind I bought a HD video camera some time back without the realisation that, to effectively edit such footage requires horsepower!!.... so i have saved up for a new computer and ended up here after much reading on various forums (toms hardware, video guys etc etc).
Where I am up too....
I have started by firstly implementing a NAS into my Home network which is primarily used to store and stream media (Gigabit LAN) around the home. It is setup in RAID 5 with 5 x 2TB disks (so about 7TB of storage). I have done this so there is some backup of photos, movies, home video etc (if I lose a disk , hopefully i will not lose the lot). I have also acquired adobe Premiere Pro CS 5 and now need a workstation that will allow me to edit in confort ( the one I have will not even run it!! .
My aim is to store original files and completed work on the NAS (or burn to Bluray etc).
I am looking at a PC solution, as I can obviously get more horsepower for less $$ than a laptop solution.
I have built PC's in the past but not with high frequency and this will be the biggest budget one I will have attempted. I have been researching alot over the last few weeks about sytems and components and found this forum to be very good in dealing with hardware specs and requiremnts in a very proffesional way.
I am now at the point where I getting a little muddled with which way to go and still have a lot of research to complete. My approach is to tackle each of the components needed one at a time in a fairly hierarchial manner.
What the PC will be used for..
This PC will be used primarily for the video editing and some gaming (when I have time). AlLso any other horsepower intensive apps if needed (I have a laptop and other comps for general duties).
Budget
My budget is fairly rigid at $2500 AUD (so I am not looking at a Zeon solution LOL). The budget is to include:
Case ?
CPU Intel I7 2600K (based on my research this seems to be the best way to go with my budget and needs)
CPU Cooler Standard Intel supplied Cooler (seems to perform reasonably well even when moderately overclocking (~4.0 - 5.0 khz)
MOBO ?
RAM ?
Graphics Card ?
BLURAY Writer ?
PSU ?
HDD Storage 1 SSD and 3 HDD's with 2 in Raid "0"
OS Windows 7 64 Bit
23 inch Screen ?
Questions
Motherboard
I guess my issues with MOBO slection revolve firstly around which chipset to go with Z68 (newer) or the P67? It seems the Z68 is feature rich, however I also seem to feel that the Quick sync and SRT would be better disabled with what I am setting the machine up for? So therefore what advantage is there with going with Z68 if any? or am I better off getting a more established P67 chipset based board?
I also see that some boards have the Nvidia NF200 for expanding bandwidth on the restrictive 16 PCIe lanes available on the 1155 socket boards given I am only looking at one decent Graphics card is this a chip I should avoid (as I have read this can cause latency with only one graphics card)?
Another thing I have noticed is some boards have a PLX PEX8608 chip which seems to manage the limited PCIe lanes better if other cards are plugged in?
I also see some boards have the Marvell Sata 3 controller on them that does not seem to perform as well as the native Intel Sata 3 controller on the Southbridge in tests. I guess I have no real idea of when I would be looking at stretching the bandwidth and wonder whether I need to concern myself with 4 x sata 3 connections (2 intel and 2 Marvell)?
One last question I see there is now MOBO's available with PCIe 3.0 available (even though there are no devices that can utilize it) is this even worth being a consideration or is it not really of any importance to the slection process?
In summary it appears there is lots of goodies on offer with different chipsets and boards, however I do not want to waste budget on things I have no use for or gimmicks.
CPU Cooler
It is my intent to start with the factory supplied Intel bundled cooler and invest the money not spent on this item on better graphics card etc. For moderate Overclocking it seems to perform ok.... am hoping this will be ok?
HDD Storage
At this stage I am not up to speed with the exact storage devices I need, I am initially looking at whether my ideas for a storage system have merit? Please bear in mind I am not a CSpro user as of yet and so some of this is just based on research with no base knowledge....?
1 x ~120Gb SSD for OS and Programs
1 x ??Gb/TB HDD 7200 rpm for Media Projects
2 x ?? Gb/TB HDD 7200 rpm in raid "0" for Media Cache and Preview Files
Will the onboard Raid controller accommadate the above adequately?
Graphics Card
I am looking at Nvidia as far as I can tell so that I may make use of the CUDA threads and as far as type I assume I pick the best one of the approved list (adobe approved list)? I am still confused ast to whether there is any benefit from a using a twin GPU card, its unclear to me whether the CUDA can tap into both of the GPU's on such a card? Of course budget restraint will come into play here.
Ram
I am looking at 4 x 4gb dual channel Ram cards to give a total of 16Gb total (DDR 3) as for brands, types and frequencies I have no idea yet and need to cover off some of the above first before my research gets too wide?
PSU and Case
I am hoping for a modular device for this, however I was thinking this and the case are a low priority at this stage (until some of the other solutions are verified).
Blur Ray writer /reader
With me using my NAS for media streaming I will not be burngin to many Blu ray disks, however I will be reading a few so that I can upload them onto the NAS via this unit. I have no idea what is a good or bad unit or what to look for in this area?
Monitor
I have found some cheap solutions in the 23" sizing for a main screen (~160 AUD) supported by my existing 17' monitor, however is there anything I should be looking for in particular with the monitor I choose?
I will update each section with what is decided on so that it may help others who are having the same tough decisions to make?
Even if we just tackle the Motherboard first I would be greatfull...
Thanks for reading and again all assistance is appreciated.
Regards
JodyOk well after much reading I have got the following as the setup that shoe horns in at $2500 ish...
Interested in thoughts for Premiere pro:
Component Model $ each Stat Ice Store
Case
UNKNOWN AT THIS STAGE BUDGET $200
Power Supply
FSP Aurum Series 750W Modular Power Supply $139.00 PCCASEGEAR
Motherboard
ASUS P8P67 Deluxe REV 3 $212.00 I-Store
Processor
Intel I7 2600k Gen 2 $324.00 All needs Computer
CPU Cooling
Thermalright Silver Arrow CPU Cooler $89.00 PCCASEGEAR
Memory
G.Skill Ripjaws X F3-12800CL8D-8GBXM (2x4GB) DDR3 $79.00 $158.00 PCCASEGEAR
OS/Programs Drive
Patriot 120G Wildfire SSD SATA3 $289.00 Umart
Capture/work Drive
2 x Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ setup in Raid "0" $54.00 $108.00 Green Box IT
Render to Drive
2 x Samsung SpinPoint F3 1TB HD103SJ setup in Raid "0" $54.00 $108.00 Green Box IT
Dual/Quad Head Video
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 580 Super Overclock $589.00 PCCASEGEAR
DVD-RW
LG BH12LS38 Optical Media (OEM) $68.71 Mega Buy
Operating System
Windows 7 64 Bit Pro $129.00 Umart
Monitor
Samsung S23A300B 23in Widescreen LED Monitor $149.00 Netplus $2,362.71
Total
This will be supported by a 10tb 5 disc NAS on Gigabit connection for long term secure storage. -
This is a test of the Edit button
I am using Harm's original guide posts to see what's happening with the edit button
How do you set up your editing machine in terms of disks for maximum performance and reliability? (SSD's are left out here.)
This is a question that often arises and all too often one sees that initial settings are really suboptimal. These rules are intended to help you decide how to setup your disks to get the best response times. Of course the only disks in an editing machine must be 7200 RPM types or faster. No GREEN disks at all.
Rule 1: NEVER partition a disk. You may ask why? First of all, it does not increase disk space, it just allocates the space differently. However, the major drawback is that for a partitioned disk the OS must first access a partition table at the beginning of the disk for all accesses to the disk, thus requiring the heads to move to the beginning of the disk, then when it has gotten the partition info move to the designated area on the disk and perform the requested action. This means much more wear-and-tear on the mechanics of the disk, slower speeds and more overhead for the OS, all reducing efficiency.
Rule 2: Avoid using USB drives, since they are the slowest on the market. Do not be tricked by the alleged bandwidth of USB 2.0 advertisements, because is just is not true and remember that the alleged bandwidth is shared by all USB devices, so if you have a USB mouse, keyboard, printer, card reader or whatever, they all share the bandwidth. Stick to SCSI or SATA disks or e-SATA. If needed, you can use Firewire-800 or even Firewire-400 disks, but they are really more suited for backups than for editing.
Rule 3: Use at least 3 different physical disks on an editing machine, one for OS/programs, one for media and one for pagefile/scratch/renders. Even on a notebook with one internal drive it is easy to accomplish this by using a dual e-SATA to Express card connector. That gives you an additional two e-SATA connections for external disks.
Rule 4: Spread disk access across as many disks as you have. If you have OS & programs on disk C:, set your pagefile on another disk. Also set your pagefile to a fixed size, preferably somewhere around 1.5 times your physical memory.
Rule 5: Turn off index search and compression. Both will cause severe performance hits if you leave them on.
Rule 6: If the fill rate on any of your SATA disks goes over 60-70% it is time to get a larger or an additional disk.
Rule 7: Perform regular defrags on all of your disks. For instance, you can schedule this daily during your lunch break.
Rule 8: Keep your disks cool by using adequate airflow by means of additional fans if needed. You can use SMART to monitor disk temperatures, which should be under 35 degrees C at all times and normally hover around 20-24 C, at least in a properly cooled system.
Rule 9: If people want raid, the cheapest way is to use the on-board IHCR or Marvell chip, but it places a relatively high burden on the CPU. The best way is a hardware controller card, preferably based on the IOP348 chip. Areca ARC and ADAPTEC come to mind. 3Ware uses it's own chipset and though not bad, they are not in the same league as the other two. Promise and the like in the budget range are no good and a complete waste of money. Expect to spend around $ 800 plus for a good controller with 12 connectors internally and 4 e-SATA connectors. Important to consider in a purchasing decision is whether the on-board cache memory can be expanded from the regular 256/512 MB to 2 or even 4 GB. Be aware that 2 GB cache can be relatively cheap, but the 4 GB version extremely costly ($ 30 versus $ 300). For safety reasons it is advisable to include a battery backup module (BBM).
Rule 10: If you can easily replace the data in case of disk failure (like rendered files), go ahead and use raid0, but if you want any protection against data loss, use raid 3/5/6/10/30/50. For further protection you can use hot spares, diminishing downtime and performance degradation.
In general when you get a new disk, pay close attention to any rattling noise, do perform regular disk checks, and in case of doubt about reliability, exchange the disk under guarantee. Often a new disk will fail in the first three months. If they survive that period, most of the disks will survive for the next couple of years. If you use a lot of internal disks like I do (17), set staggered spin-up to around 1 second to lessen the burden on the PSU and improve stability.
Hope this helps to answer some basic questions. If not, let me know. Further enhancements and suggestions are welcome
==============================================================================
For AMD setups, disregard the mentions of sockets and the like but the general recommendations still hold.
When you need a new PC for editing purposes, you basically have three choices:
1. Buy an off the shelf system from companies like HP or Dell.
2. Buy a custom built PC from a specialist company, like http://www.guygraphics.com/
3. Build it yourself.
Solution 1 can offer good prices if you stick to their standard configurations and it is easy. But remember that these companies make their profit not on the base system, but on all the options they offer. If you follow their recommendations and upgrade memory, hard disks, or choose a better video card or a faster processor, they steal you blind.
I have nothing against HP or Dell, I have bought systems from them, but usually that was because of a great offer with all the features I needed at the time and applied to notebooks, desktops and servers.
Solution 2 is usually costly, but you get what you pay for. You get the expertise of the seller/builder in selecting the right components, he builds it, installs the software and tests it before delivery. The downside is that often these specialists have their own favorite hardware, like Matrox or Canopus and try to get that into the deal, which increases the price.
Solution 3 is usually the most cost effective and the most flexible, but the largest drawback is that you need to choose all the right components, to be aware of potential incompatibilities and build it yourself. Many see that as a major stumbling block, but really it is not difficult. Another drawback is support. You have to do it yourself.
The first steps to take are twofold:
1. What material do you want to edit and how do you want to deliver the results?
To put it bluntly, if you want to edit material, recorded with a mobile phone, a digital still camera, recorded off the internet from YouTube or similar, recorded from TV, grabbed from the screen, encoded with any unsuitable codec like DivX, XVid, or the like, or ripped from DVD, and that is your major purpose, no need to read this further, just use a consumer application like Windows Movie Maker or Magix for your editing.
This guide is for people who use a VIDEO camera and want to edit that.
So for people with video cameras, what is the main format you use? DV, HDV, DVCPROHD, AVCHD, XDCAMHD, other?
Do you deliver for the web, on BR or DVD or all of those?
2. What is your budget?
Once you have answered these two basic questions for yourself can you start the selection process.
It will require you to read quite a lot about PC's. Good general sources of information are:
http://www.tomshardware.com and http://anandtech.com
As a general rule of thumb you can say that the minimum requirements in terms of CPU, despite what Adobe mentions as minimum requirements, are:
1. For DV: Core 2 Duo
2. For AVCHD: i7 with HT or dual Xeon's 55xx
3. For other HD formats: Core 2 Quad
It generally does not pay to get the fastest CPU, unless you have an unlimited budget. Their price/performance is usually not the best and you will find a step down gives you nearly the same performance at a much lower price. And there is always overclocking, but I'll come back to that later. To give an example, the Core 2 Extreme QX6850 is currently more than 4 times as expensive as the Core 2 Quad Q9550, but does not deliver any noteworthy performance improvement. And both are quad cores.
To help you narrow down your choices, it is worthwhile to have a look at these charts:
http://www.tomshardware.com/charts/desptop-cpu-charts-q3-2008/Cinema-4D-Release- 10,835.html
Likely a new version for Q1-2009 will come out shortly.
In deciding on your shortlist, keep in mind that for video editing FSB speed and cache size are very important. First look at FSB speed (the higher the better, so if you have the choice between 1066 or 1333 FSB, always choose the higher one if it fits your budget). Next narrow down your choices by selecting the CPU with the largest cache. 6 MB L3 cache is better than 3 MB.
Let's assume that after studying all these sites and reading a lot about CPU's, you have made a shortlist of possible candidates, that fit the minimum requirements indicated above, you have to identify what socket the CPU uses. Is it a 775 pin socket (Core2), a 1366 pin (i7 or Xeon 55xx) or a 771 Xeon 54xx or lower (old generation) socket. This will largely determine your choice of motherboard and memory type you need and as a consequence the case and cooling you need.
In general the chipset on a 775 mobo uses DDR2, dual channel memory, which is widely available and relatively cheap. On a 771 mobo the memory used is FBDIMM (fully buffered DDR2) with ECC (error correction) which is much harder to get and significantly more expensive. On a 1366 mobo the memory is triple channel DDR3 which is faster than DDR2 but also more expensive. For Xeon 55xx based boards memory used is FBDIMM's triple channel with ECC, which is hard to find and costly.
The main difference between DDR2 and DDR3 is that dual channel requires two populated memory banks for dual channel operation, whereas triple channel DDR3 requires three banks populated. That is the reason that mobo's with DDR2 usually come with 4 or 8 GB RAM and DDR3 mobo's with 6 or 12 GB RAM. DDR3 is faster (at the same specs) than DDR2. To complicate matters further, most 775 mobo's offer 4 memory slots, 1366 mobo's usually offer 6 memory slots and 1366 dual socket Xeon boards usually offer 12 memory slots.
I see you are losing interest, this is getting way too complicated. Well, I'm sorry but if you want to make an informed decision on what your next system should be, you need to understand these basics or buy a Dell or HP or even Alienware (a Dell subsidiary). And I continue to bore you with these technicalities in order to help you make a good purchasing decision.
When selecting a mobo for the CPU you have selected, read tests on TomsHardware or AnandTech to help you find the good performers that have the right set of features for your job. Good brands are ASUS, Abit, Gigabyte and MSI for single socket use, for dual socket the best one to check out is SuperMicro or possibly Tyan.
Pay attention to the features a board offers, like dual NIC's (network interface controller), dual firewire, number of SATA ports, chipset used for the SATA controller, IHCR and/or Marvell raid capability, on board sound, etcetera. Pay special attention to the board layout, where the PCI-e slots are located in relation to PCI slots. I have once built a machine where I knew I had to use a PCI firewire board and due to the location of the PCI-e slot and the size of the video card (dual slot size) the PCI slot was no longer accessible. It caused me quite some headaches to find a PCI-x firewire replacement board, because I had forgotten to have a close look at the mobo layout. Just a warning, so you don't fall into the same trap I did.
Ok, we have now decided on the CPU and the mobo. Let's have a look at memory.
General rule: Get as much as you can and don't spend it on higher clock capable versions! You will gain more from slower memory in large quantities, than from faster but less memory, even with 32 bit apps like CS4. One of the side effects of more memory is less use of a pagefile, which is far slower than RAM, so even if the application can not access more than 4 GB, your pagefile use will be much lower with more memory installed.
Memory is offered with various ratings. Often in marketing jargon these are dubbed as PC3-8500 or PC3-10600 or PC3-12800 up to 16000. This is all hype. The price tag increases significantly with higher numbers but the performance gain is negligent, in the order of 1 or 2 %. Your best bet is to get memory that is suitable for the FSB speed you have. If you have a FSB of 1333, use memory for 1333 FSB (10600), if you have a FSB of 1066, get 1066 capable memory (8500), it is a complete waste of money to get 1600 capable memory if your FSB does not support it. What is important however is to get the best timings you can find.
The lower the CAS latency, the better. Also look at tRAS (ROW-ACTIVE-TIME) results. These timing figures may give you better performance than spending money on higher clocked memory. On my system I have 6-6-6-18 timings for memory (even when overclocked by 35% and without increasing the voltage), which gives far better results than 9-9-9-27 timings. BTW, timings are usually measured in CAS, RAS-to-CAS, tRP and tRAS sequence. The lower these numbers, the better it is.
In general get at least 4 GB on a 775 or 6 GB on a 1366 mobo, but you may benefit from doubling these figures if you are multitasking, for instance having PR, AE and EN open for dynamic linking, or changing to PS for text or still manipulation.
Next: Storage. I point you to a previous guide I made which gives you the basics about disk setup:
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/427772
Next cases. I suggest to only look at big towers or server towers, depending on the mobo of your choice. For dual CPU sockets a server tower is almost always a must, decause of the use of e-ATX size mobo's and the requirement for specialized cooling, often using an air duct, which is only available in server cases. SuperMicro is a prime supplier and my personal favorite in terms of build quality, expansion capabilities and reliability. Be aware however that the power supply in those cases are pretty noisy. For single CPU solutions there are many choices, often based on looks. What is much more important however is the expansion room and the airflow in those cases. You don't want to pimp your editing machine with LED illuminated fans, transparent sides and the like. It needs to be functional. Antec, CoolerMaster, Lian Li and ThermalTake are common brands and worth having a look at. Looking at smaller cases with a sexy look will often lead to disappointment in the future, since they often lack the capability to add additional disk drives or burners internally or get so full with equipment, that cooling is going to be a real problem. Do take into consideration that you may need 1 or 2 5.25" slots for burners.
Warning: COOLING is essential for reliability and longevity of your system. We'll get to that in a minute.
If you work long form projects, have a multitude of projects or other situations that may require a large number of disks in use or for backup, it is worth to have a look at cases that offer SAS backplanes and (hot-)swappable disk cages. Often on various sites you may find entries to case modding, where you can find other disk cages that allow you to use four 3.5" disks in the space for two 5.25" slots. In my case I had 6 3.5" slots as is was delivered. I have modded my case to now contain 14 3.5" disks just on the front with room for another disk. To avoid disappointment in the future and a lot of work of rebuilding your PC into a new chassis, plan ahead for the storage requirements you may have in the next years. If you start out with 4
disks now, but expect to use 8 next year, be sure that they fit in, even if it requires different disk cages. Make sure that there is adequate cooling for the disks in the disk cages, preferably with 80 or 120 mm fans in front of the disks and use a replacable dust filter.
By this stage we have found the CPU, mobo, memory, hard disks and case. Time to have a look at video cards.
General: CS4 will not significantly benefit from a high end video card. The marketing hype wants us to believe that the nVidia
Quadro CX will give enormous benefits for encoding H.264, but that is just what it is: "Hype".
For general NLE work you are better served with more CPU power, more memory and more hard disks and possibly a better raid controller with more cache than with a video card that costs you at least $ 1 K extra in comparison to very good cards. Better spend the money where you benefit from it. SLI or CrossFire is a complete waste of money and only applies to gamers. Everybody serious about video editing will NEVER install a game on his machine so forget about those things.
If you make sure that you have at least 512 MB on a decent modern video card, you will be hard pressed to see significant differences in performance. ATI Radeon 4xxx and nVidia GT 2xx series are all well up to the task for editing. If you use GPU intensive plug-ins like Colorista or Magic Bullet you may be wise to choose for the more powerful versions of these cards, since these plug-ins are very demanding when rendering.
These video cards get very hot in practice and especially under load. If your case is very full or you have another card in the next PCI-e slot, reducing airflow to the video card, you may consider exchanging the stock cooler on the video card by a special cooler like the Accelero Twin Turbo from Arctic Cooling to keep temperatures in hand.
Now go to http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp and use the PSU calculator to roughly decide what your power supply needs to deliver in terms of Wattage. I strongly suggest to get the PRO version (it is cheap!) but it saves you from fatal mistakes. A PSU (power supply unit) is one of the most overlooked and neglected components in a PC and very often the cause for all kinds of mysterious faults, hangs, BSOD's, restarts etcetera. Let me tell what nearly happened to me when building a new PC. I had checked the power supply requirements, checked reviews online and found one PSU that appealed to me, based on the reviews. It was a Zalman 1000 W. Great, looks good and in stock at an attractive price. I then got the pro version and rechecked, with the extra info on the various rails. The Zalman did not have enough power on the 5V rails that I needed. So I had to change the PSU, otherwise I would have been in for a lot of strange, unexplainable and foreall unexpected hangs, restarts and the like, apart from the reduced life expectancy of the PSU.
Now, we're finally getting somewhere. Only cooling is left, then all the hardware components have been chosen.
CPU cooling: Again check sites like AnandTech. They regularly perform extensive tests on CPU coolers. Be aware that test results differ widely from site to site, but some of the names to consider are Noctua, Scythe and Thermaltake. It is best to choose a vertical heatsink cooler with 'push-pull' configuration, meaning one fan in front to push the cooling air in to the heatsink and the other fan at the rear to pull out the air. That generally delivers the best cooling performance. These things can be quite heavy so they are not suggested for LAN parties. Install it and leave your PC where it is, otherwise the weight may damage your mobo. When installing the heatsink be very sparing in applying cooling paste (Arctic silver is a good
suggestion).
If you have followed my advise in getting a big tower you have room for additional fans in the case. There may not always be holes to attach screws for mounting, but what also works quite effectively is using heavy duty double sided tape to attach fans to a side, on the PSU (if it is mounted at the bottom of the case). Scythe has some very good fans that give a large airflow at reasonable RPM's and low sound levels.
Once you have built your system you need to decide what OS to use. 32 or 64 bit? The point seems moot now. 64 bit Vista is your best option currently. No driver problems anymore, somewhat decent stability and the use of all your installed memory. Windows 7 is only a RC currently, so I would not advise that on a production machine, but on another machine I would definitely try it. It is as stable as Vista is now, but drivers are still somewhat lacking. XP is out, despite the best stability on a clean and mean system, due to the 32 bit nature.
After installing the OS, first check your device manager. Make sure that all your devices are working and there are no warnings. Then update Windows, drivers and other system utilities. Then check your hardware, using CPU-Z and HWMonitor, check the cooling and voltages. Your disks should be below 35 C at all times. Then tune your Bios. Once you have completed these steps, proceed with installing your software. Start with essential system tools like Process Explorer, Beyond Compare, etc. and then continue with tuning Windows, removing sh*t you never use on an editing machine, like MSN or Games, setting unneeded services to manual, disabling Windows Defender and installing Symantec Endpoint protection if you have it, and only then start installing CS4 and related programs.
When all is well, you may consider to start overclocking. TomsHardware and AnandTech have published several articles on how to do that. If you do it right you will not lose stability and may get significant performance gains. It does require more attention to the temperatures in your case.
When I recently built a new system, my first PassMark (a common benchmark testing program) score was around 3600. After finetuning the system, optimizing Windows and overclocking, I got a PassMark score of 4733.8, which even after a month is still number two in the worldwide ranking.
For my system specs, look below, maybe you can derive some ideas from it for your next configuration:
http://www.millcon.nl/Harm/PCResults.jpg
I hope this has been informative and that you can profit from my remarks.
I'm sorry this was so long and taxed your patience to the extreme.
Further suggestions and enhancements are welcome.
================================================================================
Yes, I'm going to tax your patience again. This is a guide to setup Vista 64 for NLE work, well it actually applies to any kind of work, but NLE machines may profit more than an Office/MSN machine. One caveat: What I suggest here is a lean and mean machine that is mainly dedicated to NLE work.
First: It is always best to start with a clean install and a complete reformat of the disk. That will ensure that your registry is clean and leaves no leftovers from a previous install. Do not partition the drive, format the whole disk as one.
After installation has completed, first select Control Panel and Personalize. Select Change Desktop icons and ensure that at least Computer is selected. You can choose other icons as well if you want to. I have all 5 selected.
Next check Device Manager (right click This Computer, select Properties and then Device Manager) that you have no problems with drivers for any of your hardware. If there are any yellow exclamation symbols, solve these issues first by having Vista search for drivers and if it comes back with the message that no drivers could be found, get the latest 64 bit driver from the internet for this device.
Once Device Manager has no more problems, go to Windows update and install all critical updates. Nothing more at this moment. After installation and rebooting, again check Device Manager for problems. There should be none. Otherwise get on the internet again and reinstall the latest Vista 64 drivers. Next right chick This Computer and select Manage and go to Event Viewer. Open the Windows Logs and click on System. Scroll through the events and check out any errors or warnings you see. Search the Microsoft Technet for solutions. This is the link to the very informative Technet site to help you solve any issues you may have: Microsoft Technet
Next go to Control Panel, select Programs and Features and select turn Windows features on or off. You may not need anymore than these Windows Features and possibly less, for instance if you don't use a network printer. Also this may be a good moment to turn off User Account Control via Control Panel/Security Settings.
Next go to Vista Services and use the instructions and the table shown to modify the services, so only those are started that are needed in your situation. Anything not needed will only increase boot time and will consume resources, placing a higher overhead on the system than needed.
After rebooting, update all your drivers if you have not already done so. For instance, if you have an ATI card, download the latest drivers, but remember you can do without the Catalyst Control Center. Their drivers are typically denoted by y.m (year, month) so currently the latest is version 9.5
Now go to Control Panel, System and select Advanced system settings, select Visual Effects and select Adjust for best performance, apply and then select the Advanced tab, click on Performance settings, select the Advanced tab, Select Adjust for best performance of programs and then change the Virtual memory. Setup your pagefile with a custom size with equal numbers for Initial and Maximum size on another drive than your C disk and set the C drive to No paging file. If you have read my Storage rules for an editing rig guide, you know you need a fixed size of around 1 to 1.5 times installed memory, unless you have lots of RAM, then you can easily go lower.
Reboot and right click on This Computer, select Manage and select Disk Management. Select drive C, right click Properties and make sure that Index this drive for faster searching and Compress this drive to save disk space are both turned off. Click Disk Cleanup and clean what can be deleted. Repeat these steps for all of your drives. Next go to the Tools tab and select Defragment Now and defrag all drives. While you are at the Disk Defragment window, setup a daily defragging schedule, for instance during your lunch break. That will keep your disks optimized.
This will make sure that the space previously occupied by the pagefile on the C drive is reclaimed and that the new pagefile on another drive is not fragmented and at the very beginning of the drive in the fastest location (at least if the disk was newly formatted and not used).
If you haven't done so yet, completely turn off the Sidebar and do not have it autostart.
No application has been installed yet, so it is time to start with some essential utilities.
The first thing I do is turning off Windows Defender and install Symantec Endpoint Protection.
Next I install Ccleaner. A very handy freeware tool to keep your system and the registry clean and to remove or disable registry based auto startup programs.
The next one to install is the Sysinternals Suite and most notably Process Explorer, Process Monitor and Autoruns. Depending on your use, other utilities in the Suite may be nice to install as well. Installation is done by extracting the relevant files to the C:\Windows directory. Run Process Explorer once and in the Options menu select Replace Task Manager.
Other utilities I install (but of course you may have different favorites) are Beyond Compare, HWMonitor, SpeedFan, SnagIt and 1ClickPCFix
You are now ready to install your regular software. After installation, registration and activation of all your software use Ccleaner, Tools to check for unnecessary Startup entries in the registry. Disable or remove them. Next check your registry by scanning for issues and fix selected issues. Defragment all your disks again and make a restore point.
If you want to get rid of the ridiculously large shortcut arrow at this moment, go to this site: Remove Shortcut Arrow and follow Method 1.
Reboot and you are ready to go with a hopefully much faster and efficient Vista machine.
If you encounter difficulties and have problems that want to ask about on the forum, be prepared to include a screenshot from Process Explorer and either HWMonitor or Speedfan and a link to DXDIAG.txt
Thanks for your patience and I hope you have found some tips and tricks to improve performance.In general theory, one now has the Edit button for their posts, until someone/anyone Replies to it. I've had Edit available for weeks, as opposed to the old forum's ~ 30 mins.
That, however, is in theory. I've posted, and immediately seen something that needed editing, only to find NO Replies, yet the Edit button is no longer available, only seconds later. Still, in that same thread, I'd have the Edit button from older posts, to which there had also been no Replies even after several days/weeks. Found one that had to be over a month old, and Edit was still there.
Do not know the why/how of this behavior. At first, I thought that maybe there WAS a Reply, that "ate" my Edit button, but had not Refreshed on my screen. Refresh still showed no Replies, just no Edit either. In those cases, I just Reply and mention the [Edit].
Also, it seems that the buttons get very scrambled at times, and Refresh does not always clear that up. I end up clicking where I "think" the right button should be and hope for the best. Seems that when the buttons do bunch up they can appear at random around the page, often three atop one another, and maybe one way the heck out in left-field.
While I'm on a role, it would be nice to be able to switch between Flattened and Threaded Views on the fly. Each has a use, and having to go to Options and then come back down to the thread is a very slow process. Jive is probably incapable of this, but I can dream.
Hunt -
HP Officejet Pro 7680 and double-sided printing
I just got this yesterday, but I cannot get this to print double-sided in my Macbook Pro (10.5.1). I checked the feature in the printing preference (system preference), but the double-sided option in the print dialog is always grayed out on all applications.
My previous HP 7310 didn't have any problem printing double-sided.
Also I get the error message related to hpsuppliestool program every time I try to print. I keep pressing ignore to get rid of the dialog but it's annoying.
Any one with similar experiences or solutions?
Message was edited by: ksrhee24
Message was edited by: ksrhee24I'm updating this so that others can benefit from my experience.
I got everything working now-duplexing, scanning, etc.
I found the beta scanning software on the forum, and installed it. It works. I can scan multiple pages using the ADF w/o any problem.
I found the beta printing software for HP OfficeJet Pro 7300 in the forum and installed it according to its instructions. Now duplexing is back.
I found the HPsuppliesTools.app in my Library/printer folder and deleted it. No more error messages.
So, now everything is working 100%!
Thanks for HP folks to post things on this forum! -
I am trying to make only the main content editable in a template.
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Nancy O. -
How do I use pan and zoom on vertical photographs without editing out most of the photo?
I am trying to make a slide show. When I have a vertically oriented (portrait) photograph and try to use pan and zoom, the feature eliminates much of the photograph. It seems the pan and zoom feature only works for horizontally oriented (or landscape) photographs. Is there a way to use pan and zoom on vertically oriented photographs to capture all or most of the photograph and zoom in from there?
gtavetian
I decided to use a different strategy to convey the principle. It is most likely that your photos will be 4:3 and you may or may not be taking them into a SD widescreen or HD widescreen project. With all those variables, to get the basic ideas across, I am going to use two models with a generalized scheme.
For this post....
NTSC DV Standard Project - Portrait Oriented JPG, in this case 2448 x 3264 3:4. Could be any Portrait Oriented JPEG any pixel dimensions. But best plan ahead for what you have and what you would like.
Manually set the project preset to NTSC DV Standard.
File Menu/New/Project and, in the new project dialog, set for NTSC DV Standard.
Before exiting the final dialog in that area, put a check mark next to "Force Selected Project Setting on This Project". Close out of there.
Next go to the Edit Menu/Preferences/General and remove the check mark next to "Default Scale to Frame Size". Close out of the preferences.
In the opened Premiere Elements Expert workspace, use Add Media/Files and Folders/Project Assets to get your portrait oriented JPG to the beginning of the Timeline.The 2448 x 3264 3:4 will overwhelm the space in the Edit Mode monitor. That is to be expected. The Timeline Indicator is at the beginning of the Timeline @ 00;00;00;00.
a. Click on the Timeline jpg to select it. With Motion Panel/Scale property (with Constrain Proportions with check mark), you want to scale the image so that the whole is shown within the mode space. You want to see the image's bounding box. See the next screenshot. The bounding box is the white outline around the image. It has handles.
After the scaling to get that look, the important information that you want is on the right in the Motion Panel
Position values 360.0 and 240.0
Scale value 14.6%.
The next phase is as before (See post 21 of this thread...but much of that is repeated below and modified for what is being described at this moment)
With Timeline Indicator at the beginning of Video Track 1 (00;00;00;00), go to Tools Menu/Pan and Zoom and click on it to open the Pan and Zoom workspace.
In the Pan and Zoom workspace, you will see that the feature has created the initial two Focus Frames for you.
Do not do anything to Focus Frame 1 in the bin below the image window.
Click on Focus Frame 2 in the bin below the image window and set the Focus Frame as wanted.
Click on New Frame in the panel to the left of the image window to create a third Focus Frame which will appear in the bin. Set Focus Frame as wanted.
Click on New Frame in the panel to the left of the image window to create a fourth Focus Frame which will appear in the bin. Set the Focus Frame as wanted.
Click Done to the Pan and Zoom workspace so that you are back in the Premiere Elements Expert workspace with its Timeline.
In the Expert workspace,
Move the Timeline Indicator to the last frame of the selected pan and zoom clip 1. In Applied Effects Tab/Applied Effects Palette/Motion Panel expanded, (Toggle Animation should be active at this point), make sure Position settings are 360.0 and 240.0 and Scale = 14.6% (with Constrain Proportions used).Then go to Tools Menu/Freeze Frame and set the freeze frame for 3 seconds and hit Insert in Movie.
Then move the Timeline Indicator to the first frame of the selected pan and zoom clip 1. In Applied Effects Tab/Applied Effects Palette/Motion Panel expanded (Toggle Animation should be active at this point), make sure Position settings are 360.0 and 240.0 and Scale = 14.6% (with Constrain Proportions used). Then go to Tools Menu/Freeze Frame and set the freeze frame for 3 seconds and hit Insert in Movie.
Render.
The Timeline content sequence from start to finish should be:
Freeze Frame 3 seconds First Frame of pan and zoom clip 1
Pan and zoom clip 1
Freeze Frame 3 seconds Last Frame of pan and zoom clip 1
Freeze Frame 3 seconds First Frame of pan and zoom clip 2
Pan and zoom clip 2
Freeze Frame 3 seconds Last Frame of pan and zoom clip 2
A Dissolve/Cross Dissolve Video Transition (1.00 seconds) is placed between end of Freeze Frame Last Frame of pan and zoom clip 1 and beginning of Freeze Frame 3 First Frame of pan and zoom clip 2.
Additional pan and zoom portrait oriented jpgs to the Timeline would be treated as above.
What was done above can be applied to any photo with any project preset. The basic idea is to
a. Start with determing the whole picture Position and Scale values as described with the Default Scale to Frame Size option disabled.
b. Do pan and zoom with Pan and Zoom Tool in its workspace
c. Return to Premiere Elements workspace to apply your Position and Scale values to the last frame of pan and zoom clip so that the last frame presents in full clip view. Then go to the first frame of the pan and zoom clip, and apply the Position and Scale values to it so that the first frame presents in full clip view.
d. If you want the whole view to present for more than that one frame, do the freeze frame at each end, with the wanted duration.
e. Apply emblessments as wanted, such as video transitions, an animated graphic flying through the last scene, etc.
We could take this same clip into a NTSC AVCHD Full HD 1080p30 project and do the same, except the Position and Scale values and the Scale % determined at the beginning and used subsequently will be different than in the NTSC DV Standard project.
Please check out the above and see how you do with it. If problems, please indicate where and we will work through them.
Thanks.
ATR -
How to insert a flying image in a video
How to insert flying images in a video...someone it's speaking in the left side and in the right side some flying pictures are coming, staying for 2-3 seconds one by one....some ideas???
Like the weather forecast...you have someone in the left side speaking and she is showing some images in the right side.
Please let me know if you know how it can be done this in after effects or with another video editor...
Thanks!!!It can be done in either. There are 3 steps.
Learn about greenscreen (keying) including lighting, filming, best formats for video (the way they do it in the weather segment) or masking and roto.
learn about image editing including sizing images, color correcting, applying effects
learn about controlling motion and editing duration of stills in a NLE or After Effects
When you have a few of these basics down and have designed your production you then load up the video and the stills, key out the background or mask around your talent to separate the talent from the background, add your photos to the time line and animate their duration and position.
This is extremely basic stuff that can be accomplished in a NLE or in AE. You can basically reproduce just about any effect you've ever seen in a movie in AE with the right planning and plug-ins. You can do just about anything you've ever seen in a news broadcast in any modern NLE. -
Flying RC helicopters on Boot Camp or at least trying to!
After lots of grief and a trip to the Mac store, I finally got my MacBook Pro (MBP) up and running again.The Mac Store replaced my optical drive and I have added another drive externally.
I just installed Boot Camp in a 32 MB partition and it's running fine!
However, I am still having problems installing Hanger 9's FSOne Simulator for Radio Controlled Model Airplanes.
The program comes on four disks. I have installed or witnessed the installation of this program on a couple of other Pee Cees. Each disk takes several hours to load and when each disk has finished it automatically ejects and asked for the next disk in the series. Some computers take 5 or 6 hours to complete entire installation.
However, when I start with installation disk #1, it works normally up through the identification number. I enter the number, it's accepted and for about 50 seconds it shows data going from disk to hard drive normally. However, at about 50 seconds I get a message saying it wants data on disk #2, but it doesn't eject #1. To get control back I have to abort the installation and go back to square. I have even tried putting disk 2 into a second drive and pointing to that drive when asked, but that did not work either.
Is there anybody out there who is successfully flying hanger 9 in Boot Camp mode?
Anybody got any good ideas as to what might be my problem? Very frustrating!
Thanks
Dan PageYour title caught my attention, but I am actually using Realflight.. I actually only installed a bootcamp partition because of that software..
You haven't said what version of windoze you installed. Bootcamp it not an OS, it is just a set of drivers that allow a mac to run windoze..
Your installation problems may be more related to whatever windoze OS you are using, as opposed to anything with your Mac or Mac OS or Bootcamp..
Also, I suspect you can get some more direct advice by looking for a FSOne Forum...
Message was edited by: flommer -
How do you get Workforce 840 to print two-sided
I can't figure out how to get my new Epson Workforce 840 to print two-sided (iMac running Mac OS 10.7.2). From MS Word the two-sided option (in Layout) is grayed out. In Mail and other Apple applications the Preset for two-sided printing is off and I can't figure out how to turn it on. The two-sided print function works as expected when I print from Windows 7 software (Bootcamp) or if I use the LCD controls on the printer to have copies printed two-sided. Probably something obvious, but I'm a newbie to the Mac world, would appreciate some help. Thanks.
I am not sure if it is still valid for OS X 10.7, but check the User Guide. Go to Output Settings
Then make your choces:
All instructions and images are from the online Users Guide on the Epson US website.
Message was edited by: Matt Broughton
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