Editing Film in Low Light Setting

Hi,
I have some video that was unfortunately shot with poor lighting. I am trying to determine the best way to edit this to bring out the subject's face without making the footage too grainy. What would you suggest I use in FCP6 (I have tried Color Correction and Contrast, both help only a little)? Would using Color help me at all? Thanks!
Ben

It is rather difficult to say what filter or software would be best to use and how efficient they can be without seeing how much underexposed your images are, however, 3 way color corrector is the basic tool to start with (take a look at [this link|http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/cc_legalfcp4.html] for your own interest).
Color is of course a very good option if you have it. I would suggest to read and watch tutorials if you are not used to it. Again best result depends on many factors including how you use the tool.
Keep having a look at [kenstone's web site|http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/fcp_homepageindex.html#color] or use google (i.e. check out Nattress filters).
G.

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About Canon HS system of low lighting

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Thank you Mike,
I have a older Canon A720 IS Powershot camera and it don't take great low light pictures and I have to use exposure setting button on the camera if I don't want to use flash that have liging from a lamp. It takes great outdoor and indoor pictures just not great on low liging and when you want to not use flash. It have a CCD sensor and the ELPH 330 HS have a CMOS senor that in DSLR's. There is a lag with the camera in wanting to take next picture when it writing to the memory card. I have messed some improtant shots because of the lag.
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FILMING WITH REBELT31, OPTIONS FOR RECORDING IN LOW LIGHT.

Hi there everyone. My question is that I want to know about a lenses that supports me good definition and quality in low light conditions. I am recording with a Rebel t3i. Thanks in advance.

bebefle_89 wrote:
This is my first DSLR and I am recording weddings and parties. For the nature of these events, most of them have low light conditions. I also need advice of a gadget to record everything without changing SD cards. Thanks.
The solution is a bigger (higher capacity) SD card. =) They go up to 64gb and 128gb now which should provide A LOT of recording capacity.
bebefle_89 wrote:
At the time, I've been working just with the 18-55 (the one that comes with the camera package), but I need an aditional lense because this lense I have, is graining all my videos because of the adjustment of ISO.
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Is LED flash used for taking pictures at low light?

I recently bought 4s iphone, currently when i take pics in the night or low light the image is not clear due to LED flash light. Does LED flash is used only for notification /alerts or is it mainly used for creating better pictures in low light?
Thanks
Ravi

or is it mainly used for creating better pictures in low light?
That is correct.
* Double check if there is a plastic film covering the camera and the flash.
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Message was edited by: impious-rocker

How to disable Wifi and Network access in low level setting for security ?

Hi
New to here
One of our final customer bought imac last months. OS 10.9, SN is c02*******J4i
Since they are security printing, all the necessary ports accessing to outisdes need to be disabled in low level setting(not the ons just like turn on and off ).
The ports including USB storage, Network and WIFI.
I googled and found the following
Open the /System/Library/Extensions folder.
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Open Terminal and enter the following command: $ sudo touch /System/Library/Extensions The touch command changes the modified date of the /System/Library/Extensions folder. When the folder has a new modified date, the Extension cache files (located in /System/Library/) are deleted and rebuilt by Mac OS X.
Choose Finder > Secure Empty Trash to delete the file.
Restart the system.
I want to confirm this before sending to final user. Since I didn't have mac on hand, just wonder whether there are similar kext files for network and wifi to remove.
Just like step 2 described.
I would like customer to backup these files before permanently removed.
Many thanks
Kevin
<Edited By Host>

chiqui wrote:
Is it possible to disable Internet access point and WAP as when I use WiFi some connections to WAP server of my provider are still made and I get charged. I am looking for the option not to delete it entirely from the access point list, but rather disable it as I might need connection when WiFi is not available and I want to be able to enable it as once I delete the server name and setting I won't know it.
Is it possible to do it and how?
You could delete WAP accesspoint. Not all providers (carriers) allow this.
‡Thank you for hitting the Blue/Green Star button‡
N8-00 RM 596 V:111.030.0609; E71-1(05) RM 346 V: 500.21.009

Tips for avoiding "noisy" images in low-light

Hi all,
I noticed that there are a lot of users here who are complaining of noisy images especially in low-light. I'm not a professional photographer or anything but I have been playing a lot with the camera of my Xperia Z1 and I did have noisy images also at first.
Here is my tip: Use these settings:
Go to Manual Mode.
Shoot in either 8MP 4:3 or 16:9 (don't worry about not making use of the 20MP, because its still doing oversampling to improve the quality of the 8MP image by making use of the whole 20MP sensor).
Set Stabilizer to off
ISO to Auto (if you prefer more detailed images, set ISO to a lower value but take note of the exposure of the image and that there is a chance of motion blur due to the longer shutter speed necessary to capture low light at low ISO)
WB Auto (or your preference).
With the setting I use above, I've seen improvements on low-light capability (indoors, artificial lighting, or night outdoor scene for example) and quality of my camera pictures. Note though that this will not be applicable for extreme low-light. Its very normal to capture really noisy images when shooting in extreme low-light (even my dedicated compact camera has troubles too).
Here is my theory why its taking noisy images by default. In Superior Auto, I analyzed the EXIF data of the pictures I've shot. It seems that Superior Auto is really excessive in bumping up the ISO (thus resulting in more noisy images) to compensate for having a faster shutter speed (reduced motion blur). Thus what you get is a noisy image that is bright and freezes the motion. For example, test it out that in Superior Auto, even minute movements of the phone will trigger the Sports Mode (running man icon near the button) prioritizing a faster shutter speed at the cost of a higher ISO.
Another reason I have for turning off the Stabilizer in Manual Mode is the same. In contrast to Steady Shot used in recording movies (sensor based shift to compensate for handshake movements), I think the Stabilizer option basically just bumps up the ISO also to compensate for handshake movements. I"m not entirely 100% sure but so far, I've been satisfied with taking images with the Stabilizer Off.
Please feel free to test it out and report the results if there have been improvements. I'm still testing it out too! One of the things I wish for Sony to put in the Camera App are just these 3 things:
1.) Holding Shutter Key will open the Camera app with the LAST CONFIGURED SETTINGS
2.) Maximum ISO can be set in Manual Mode
3.) Scene AUTO mode for Manual Mode (I know it might be redundant but it would be nice to have Auto mode for 4:3 orientation images).
Again, hope to hear from others what are their settings or if they notice any improvements in images captured.
Thanks!

Hi, there is a FAQ related to this topic.
http://talk.sonymobile.com/t5/FAQ/Capture-better-photos-in-low-light-conditions/m-p/395397#U395397
Don't forget to mark correct answer as Accepted Solution.
If you find the post helpful, press Kudos.

Nokia Lumia 925 with Black update - When low light...

The ambient light sensor doesn't seem to be correctly used in low light conditions.
In low light, with the phone "locked", just push the middle unlock button. The screen show the usual unlock screen, but at high brightness, for what seems to be a variable time (every time I do this), but not longer than 100-200 ms. Then the ambient light sensor starts to work, and reduces the display brightness.
This has only started since the black update. My Lumia 925 was working fine before, and now this display brightness problem has started. It only happens in low light conditions. If there is enough light (eg. daylight), the screen doesn't start with max brightness to begin with.
It doesn't matter if I'm using "glance" either. With this feature turned on or off, in low light conditions, this problem is the same.
I am now not using glance (I wasn't really using it before the update anyway), and I've set my screen brightness to a set value as a workaround.
OS version 8.0.10517.150
Frimware: 3051.40000.1345.1001
Hardware: 0.5.6.1
Radio: 3.2.04047.1
SOC: 8960
Solved!
Go to Solution.

So I've played with my phone more ... and I don't think there is a big problem. If I move to a room that is darker, and wait a few seconds, the phone unlock screen isn't bright when I hit the unlock button. It seems the phone now needs longer time to get used to the light conditions it is in.
Maybe the Lumia was always like this, or maybe the ambient light sensor has a slower response time now, and isn't polled as often for its reading, like it was before. More likely is that as I have been playing with the glance screen, I've been locking and unlocking quickly, while walking around. The phone hasn't had enough time to update the ambient light settings.
Interestingly, with the glance set to interval, I can still wake up the interval screen when placing my hands on the screen. I had left my phone for sometime on its own, then I lifted it up. Either my fingers or the movement triggered the glance screen to turn on. Or its has a timer as such, and just happened to turn on at this point in time ! Who knows (well I'll search for more info about the new glance settings now).
So it looks like there is no problem. Either its always been like this, and I'm testing the ambient sensor polling to the limits by pressing the unlock button often. Or the polling rate has been reduced (maybe to help increase battery life).

Trouble with low light action shots on 70d

I just went from a T3i to a 70D. I seem to have trouble with action shots in low light situations, any suggestions on setting...
Solved!
Go to Solution.

"I just went from a T3i to a 70D"
... and didn't upgrade your lens inventory? Although the 70D will be better in most cases compared to a Rebel T3i, it is the lens. It is always the lens.
EOS 1Ds Mk III, EOS 1D Mk IV EF 50mm f1.2 L, EF 24-70mm f2.8 L,
EF 70-200mm f2.8 L IS II, Sigma 120-300mm f2.8 EX APO
Photoshop CS6, ACR 8.7, Lightroom 5.7

6D low light video

Hello,
I'm trying to shoot video in low light and I'm getting some extra hue and contrast. When I shoot stills, what I see on the screen is what I see on my computer. When I flip over to video (with out changing ISO or WB settings) the images are darker and have a green hue.
I need what I'm seeing on the screen of the camera to be what I see on my computer monitor after I download of the card.
Any ideas?
Current setting: Exp 1/30, ISO 8000, WB 3200, f-stop 2.8
What I've tried: IPB and All-I compression, different SD cards rated for different speeds, formatting the card with the camera, and shrinking still images to 1920X1280 - Same results ever case

RobertTheFat wrote:
Skirball wrote:
I don't know about you, but my stills (RAW) are always darker than they are on my camera (6D); which is a jpg and might be part of the source. It wasn't near as noticable on my 450D. I just learned to adapt my eye and I check my histogram anyway. But I'd say the actual image looks about a 1/2 stop darker on my computer than the camera. I don't think it's abnormal to have small differences between the camera screen and computer. THere are too many variables to deal with to be consistent.
The most obvious explanation for that phenomenon (which means that you've probably already considered it and ruled it out) is that you've turned up the brightness of the camera's display screen. That setting is independent of all else, and it's easy to turn it up when the ambient light is high and then later forget that you did it. And maybe you didn't have the screen turned up as high on your 450D.
Also, of course, even a RAW image gets darker if subjected to any white balance correction (because that correction can only subtract, not add, light). I'd expect the screen to display the corrected image, but conceivably it doesn't.
Yes, that was the first thing that crossed my mind, but not just that the setting was turned up, but that the display is simply brighter. Although my old 450D seemed to be closer to the actual exposure it was terrible in the shadows. Things would look black on the camera but I'd still have detail on the actual photo.
I didn't bother looking for a brightness setting on my 6D for several reasons. 1) the brightness is really nice when you're out in bright sunlight; 2) I recognize there are far too many variables to expect any consistency between a small jpg with settings applied on a 3" backlit LCD to a full sized RAW file on a calibrated IPS monitor in a dim room; 3) I check my historgram constantly, I never trust what I see on the image, it's just a preview to get you in the ballpark; and 4) the IQ and recovery on the 6D is so good that I know if the image looks decent on the camera then I'll be able to make it work in post.

10.6.7 bugs "Illuminate keyboard in low light conditions"

After I update to 10.6.7, my backlight keyboard from my MBP, make problems.
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Message was edited by: Dorin Andreescu

Hi, here I have the same behavior, and I also think it's a BUG, because if I configure the machine to manually adjust the intensity of something, I expect the machine to behave like I want and not like it WANTS.
This is almost the same as the first time I installed Windows 95, that shi7 take over the control of my computer!
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IPhone Camera - distorted vertical stripe in low light

My iPhone 5 camera (on rear side) recently started showing a distorted vertical stripe down the left side of the screen in low light. It starts as a yellowish stripe, and as the light gets lower, it turns more distorted with pinks and blues (see attached screenshot). In sunlight outdoors, there is no visible stripe. Any ideas on
what can be done about this?
Message was edited by: met_fan

Hi there met_fan,
You may find the troubleshooting steps in the article below helpful.
iPhone: Hardware troubleshooting
http://support.apple.com/kb/ts2802
Camera isn't functioning or has undesired image quality
If the screen shows a closed lens or black image, force quit the Camera app.
If you do not see the Camera app on the Home screen, try searching for it in Spotlight. If the camera does not show up in the search, check to make sure that Restrictions are not turned on by tappingSettings > General > Restrictions.
Ensure the camera lens is clean and free from any obstructions. Use a microfiber polishing cloth to clean the lens.
Cases can interfere with the camera and the flash. Try gently cleaning the lens with a clean dry cloth or removing the case if you see image or color-quality issues with photos.
Try turning iPhone off and then back on.
Tap to focus the camera on the subject. The image may pulse or briefly go in and out of focus as it adjusts.
Try to remain steady while focusing:
Still images: Remain steady while taking the picture. If you move too far in any direction, the camera automatically refocuses to the center.
Note: If you take a picture with iPhone turned sideways, it is automatically saved in landscape orientation.
Video: Adjust focus before you begin recording. You can also tap to readjust focus while recording. Exiting the Camera application while recording will stop recording and will save the video to the Camera Roll.
Note: Video-recording features are not available on original iPhone or iPhone 3G.
If your iPhone has a front and rear camera, try switching between them to verify if the issue persists on both.
Issue not resolved
My issue is still not resolved. What do I do next?
Contact Apple Support.
-Griff W.

5D Mark III HSS Problem in Low light

We have a somewhat serious problem with our two Mark III's...or some obscure setting.
When the light level get's too low, they over expose when HSS is on. We can slow down the shutter so it turns HSS off and everthing is perfect. But, once you speed up so HSS is on, it is way over exposed (about two stops). This happens with both cameras and an ST-E3-RT, a 600EX-RT and/or a 430EX - off-camera or on. It doesn't seem to matter what ISO setting or exposure setting, once it goes below a certain light level it over exposes. We are normally around ISO 10,000, F2.8, 1/250. At this point, flash compensation has no effect, camera exposure compensation does change it but then you can't go back to regular light levels or no flash without switching it back. Another hint is that I can change the off-camera 600EX-RT compensation on the flash itself and that will help. But again, if it goes back to regular flash, it'll be too dark.
So, there is a clear difference in exposure between HSS and regular, or no flash at low light levels.
We've used this method with the original 5D and the 5D Mark II and all was fine. This is new with the Mark III.
It is possible we have some obscure setting incorrect...hopefully. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

mortontd wrote:
We have a somewhat serious problem with our two Mark III's...or some obscure setting.
When the light level get's too low, they over expose when HSS is on. We can slow down the shutter so it turns HSS off and everthing is perfect. But, once you speed up so HSS is on, it is way over exposed (about two stops). This happens with both cameras and an ST-E3-RT, a 600EX-RT and/or a 430EX - off-camera or on. It doesn't seem to matter what ISO setting or exposure setting, once it goes below a certain light level it over exposes. We are normally around ISO 10,000, F2.8, 1/250. At this point, flash compensation has no effect, camera exposure compensation does change it but then you can't go back to regular light levels or no flash without switching it back. Another hint is that I can change the off-camera 600EX-RT compensation on the flash itself and that will help. But again, if it goes back to regular flash, it'll be too dark.
So, there is a clear difference in exposure between HSS and regular, or no flash at low light levels.
We've used this method with the original 5D and the 5D Mark II and all was fine. This is new with the Mark III.
It is possible we have some obscure setting incorrect...hopefully. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
There's definitely something wonky about this situation. If anything, the photo should be DARKER when using HSS. And flash compensation has no effect, but exposure compensation does? That doesn't make much sense with regard to the flash power. Exposure compensation should have no effect on the flash at all if you're shooting in Av mode.
Try shooting in manual, and do a "factory reset" of your camera body and reset all custom functions.

FS300 in low light

Anyone know the best settings to use in low light. Last year, I tried filming inside Pirates of the Caribbean and the Haunted Mansion and the end result was garbage. I'm going back this year and would like to try again, any suggestions?

The best mode to use when shooting at night or in low light where you are shooting is the Night Mode. However, there are some drawbacks noted in the manual.
Moving subjects may leave a trailing afterimage.
Picture quality may not be as good as in other modes.
White points may appear on the screen.
Autofocus may not work as well as in other modes.
Low light shooting has certainly improved over the years since the FS300 was released. Have you considered one of our newer VIXIA models?
Did this answer your question? Please click the Accept as Solution button so that others may find the answer as well.

HOW DO I RESET MY LOW LIGHT SETTINGS

How do I reset my I Pad back to regular settings from low-light settings (everything is low light)

Are you talking about display brightness? If so, double press the Home button (or use the multitouch gesture) to lift the Dock and then swipe right. The slider that appears in the revealed controls is for display brightness.
Otherwise there is also an Auto-brightness setting that you can turn off or on found in Settings/Brightness & Wallpaper.

Editing Film in Low Light Setting

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