Editing H264 in low res

Hi there,
I'd like to know how I can edit my H264 footage from my EOS 550D in low res because I can't read more than 2 or 3 seconds in a row without automatically stopping...
Very hard to work...
thanks for you answers.
steve

I suppose what you want is to use proxy editing.
There are two parts to this:
1- create proxy media for your footage
The easiest way is to have everything set so that it is created when footage is imported: go to
Final Cut Pro->Preferences; under "Import", make sure that the box "create proxy media" is checked.
For footage that you have already imported, you can still create proxy media - select the clips in the event browser, go to File->Transcode media, make sure that "Create proxy media" is checked and click ok.
2- set the preferences to use proxy media:
go to Final Cut Pro->Preferences; under "Playback", click "use proxy media"
Remember, before final export of your edited video, to revert back your preferences to "use original or optimized media": this will ensure that you'll share from the higher quality version.

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Premiere Elements 9 - editing in low-res then rendering in HD

Hi all,
Just started using Adobe Premiere Elements 9, editing together a 3 minute music video (so not an epic!). Half way throughand having all sorts of problems as the footage is running slowly or not running at all.
Just bought a brand new laptop with i5 core processor, 4 G RAM and 7,200 rpm, so don't think hardware is the problem.
Question 1.
How can I edit in a low res version and then render in HD (is this called editing by proxy?)? A friend with Premiere Pro said there should be a very simple button that does this. It would seem a basic requirement of any video-editing software. But I can't find how to do it and the only internet search have brought up very confusing and long-winded processes.
Question 2.
Having trouble rendering. I tried rendering as a WMV and the image was very pixilated even though it looks fine on the editing screen. File size was also huge and computer struggled to render it. Also tried FLV, which didn't work at all.
Would appreciate help as I've put hours into the editing process already.
Many thanks,
Christina

>don't think hardware is the problem.
If you want to open and edit a single photoshop picture file... you are fine
For video (which is, in effect, 30 picture files per second, plus sound) you are not fine at all
Trying to use only ONE Hard Drive for Video Editing
You are a music conductor, with a baton that you use to point to various parts of the orchestra... this is like Windows pointing to various parts of the hard drive to do Windows housekeeping or to load program segments for various functions
Now, at the same time and with the same hand... while still using the baton to conduct the orchestra... pick up a bow and play a fiddle... this would be doing something with your video file at the same time as all the other work
You as a person cannot do both at the same time with the same hand
A computer is a LITTLE better, in that it can switch from one kind of task to another very quickly... but not quickly enough for EASY video editing
You need AT LEAST two hard drives (separate drives, never a partition http://forums.adobe.com/thread/650708?tstart=0 for more) with Windows (or Mac OS) and software on your boot drive, and video files on a 2nd drive so the boot drive is not slowed down by trying to do everything
I find that the three drives I use work very well for me, for editing AVCHD video... some people use a 4th drive, so video INPUT files are on drive three and all OUTPUT files are on drive four... I only bought a mid-tower case instead of a full tower case (my bad... but had to fit in the space available on my office desk!) so I use the three drives that will fit
Depending on your exact hardware (motherboard brand & model AND USB2 enclosure brand & model AND external hard drive brand & model) AND the type of video file, you may... or may NOT... be able to use an external USB2 hard drive for video editing
Steve Grisetti in the Premiere Elements forum http://forums.adobe.com/thread/856208?tstart=0 and Jim Simon in the Premiere Pro forum http://forums.adobe.com/thread/856433?tstart=0 use USB externals for editing
A USB3 hard drive connected to a motherboard with USB3 is supposed to be fast enough for video editing (I don't have such, so don't know) but eSata DOES have a fast enough data transfer for video editing... I have not used this eSata Dock... for reference only, YMMV and all the usual disclaimers
http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-BlacX-eSATA-Docking-Station/dp/B001A4HAFS/ref=cm_cmu_pg_ t

Editing low-res proxy, then applying changes to high-res

Hello
I'm developing one continuous image for a large wall that will be seen from about 1-2 feet viewing distance. It has to be about 100 dpi.
My image is currently 21,600 x 8100 pixels at 8 bits CMYK. It may get bigger. I don't have to do much manipulation, but a lot of it is using brushes and the smudge tool.
2 issues:
1) I have a 12-core Mac Pro with 24GB RAM. The smudge tool is sloooooow when working on this image (like one smudge at max brush size takes 15-20 seconds to take effect).
2) IS there a "warp mesh" tool that I can use in place of the smudge tool?
Is there a way for me to edit a lower-resolution version of this image, then apply the changes I made to the high-res version? then I can use the smudge and brush tools and finessé my work without the machine bogging down, and the imagery will look correct. I'm looking for a way to use these tools more in real time while working with this big image.

This appears to be the solution (at least, it is for me). I can apply my changes to the low-resolution proxy by saving the mesh and then applying that same mesh to the high-resolution image. The large brush sizes (in comparison to the image resolution) that I am afforded in the low-res version are brought across to the high-res because the changes are not applied as brush strokes, but rather as alterations to an overall mesh. the changes to the mesh are what is transferred when I export and import.
Applying the mesh is pretty slow, and it requires a few tweaks at the high-res level, but it gets me 95% of the way there. I think this is workable.
To recap - here are the steps:
1) I make a low-resolution version of the image (like 1200px wide)
2) I make my edits to the image using Liquify
3) before committing the Liquify changes, I "Save Mesh" in the Liquify tool
4) I open my high-resolution image
5) I use liquify, but I do not use any brushes, but in stead load my saved mesh from the low-res
6) profit.
thanks for the help folks!
--------------S

Iphoto saves edited photos to a low res image

Whenever I edit a image and save it, Iphoto displays a low res photo. How can I have Iphoto display a high res edited photo?

What type of editing did you perform on the file? And is the file a jpg or RAW? If it's a 5 MB RAW file then iPhoto creates a jpg modified version of it for display and further editing. Maybe that's why you're seeing the lower file size.
I have a couple of 7 MB RAW files that, when imported, created a 2.5 MB jpg right off the bat. It's the nature of the beast.
I just ran some editing tests on a jpg and I'm finding that a simple exposure change to a 2.7 MB file results in a 2.5 modified version. I'm also seeing an increase in file size, from 4.0 to 4.1, when applying several edits at one time, like increase exposure, adjust highlights and shadows and tweak the histogram. This surprised me as generally there's no way you can edit a jpg file and not encounter some additional jpeg compression. However, with iPhoto's nondestructive editing you only encounter a one time compression no matter now many times you edit the photo.
Unless you're producing mural size prints it will be difficult to see any degradation in the image.
TIP: For insurance against the iPhoto database corruption that many users have experienced I recommend making a backup copy of the Library6.iPhoto database file and keep it current. If problems crop up where iPhoto suddenly can't see any photos or thinks there are no photos in the library, replacing the working Library6.iPhoto file with the backup will often get the library back. By keeping it current I mean backup after each import and/or any serious editing or work on books, slideshows, calendars, cards, etc. That insures that if a problem pops up and you do need to replace the database file, you'll retain all those efforts. It doesn't take long to make the backup and it's good insurance.
I've created an Automator workflow application (requires Tiger), iPhoto dB File Backup, that will copy the selected Library6.iPhoto file from your iPhoto Library folder to the Pictures folder, replacing any previous version of it. It's compatible with iPhoto 08 libraries and Leopard. iPhoto does not have to be closed to run the application, just idle. You can download it at Toad's Cellar. Be sure to read the Read Me pdf file.

Editing in lower res for lower end hardware?

Hi guys
I just got done shooting 6hrs of footage of an event with the XH-A1. It was the first time I'd ever shot in HD and I'm finding that my laptop can't handle it. In premiere it's pausing and skipping, etc.
I have captured the video from the XH-A1 with HDSplit. The resulting files are .M2T Is there a way to somehow convert the clips I need into a lower res for editing, but then when I come to encode the result, it uses the full HD files?

ok thanks, this is starting to make sense now. One point. I converted some files to h.264 MP4 files. It appears that I can't add meta data to these mp4 files and indeed I may not be able to edit them in Premiere? Is that right? (I'm away from my PC at the moment, so can't check it).
If this is true and I can not edit h.264, then what should I convert to? Can I down sample the HDV M2T files to a SD format without loosing too much of the quality (over and above the obvious differences between HDV and SDV

Can you edit in Low Res then conform to High Res

A producer told me she wanted to edit in Low Res, then do an online to replace the sequence with High Res media. I haven't done this since I started using Final Cut: I've edited in High Res all along.
Is it necessary? And how would it be done? Many thanks for any knowledge you can share.

ProRes 422 is a mastering codec. It's is a format that you do convert many camera formats into. But it is a full resolution mastering codec. Tutorial? No...but the manual:
http://documentation.apple.com/en/finalcutpro/usermanual/#chapter=2%26section=2% 26hash=apple_ref:doc:uid:TempBookID-ReplacedWhenAssociatingWithMessierRevision-4 4032FMT-1008869
http://documentation.apple.com/en/finalcutpro/usermanual/#chapter=C%26section=12 %26hash=apple_ref:doc:uid:TempBookID-ReplacedWhenAssociatingWithMessierRevision- 44035VDF-1013573
https://documentation.apple.com/en/finalcutpro/professionalformatsandworkflows/i ndex.html#chapter=10%26section=3%26tasks=true
How did he deal with all that video? Well, he had HUNDREDS of hours...adding up to 54TB. So he had to work on the project in sections, with 12TB loaded at a time. It was tricky, but far less tricky than offline/online would have been. Less time consuming too...all the time to convert ALL of that footage to offline resolution, long time.
You're iMac is plenty powerful for ProRes. My 7 year old MacPro could deal with it fine, and your machine is more powerful.

Low res pictures on iphoto

i have been trying to develop digital pictures from my iphoto library and when i develop them with snapfish or walgreens they are blurry (i.e. low res/low pixels). it's not the camera b/c i developed the same pics months ago and they were fine.
is there a way to change the resolution of the photos in my iphoto library? also, does it matter how many pics i have stored?
thanks.

Just to be sure, check iPhoto's Preferences > Advanced and look where it says "Importing: copy files to iPhoto Library folder when adding to library." As long as there IS a checkmark in that box, you are running iPhoto in its default mode and all should be well. If that box has been UNchecked, please reply (and disregard the following), as there are some very big differences with the library in that case.
Once you have imported the photos into iPhoto it is safe to delete them from the camera. As long as you haven't deleted them in iPhoto or trashed the files in iPhoto Library/ Originals they are still there. You can check the size of the photos that are in your library. Click the little i near the lower left corner of the iPhoto window to open the info pane. Select a thumbnail from your library, and you'll see its info, including pixel dimensions, in the info pane. To double-check, select a thumbnail and right-click (Control-click). Then choose "Show File" or "Show Original File" (for edited photos). A Finder window should open with the file already selected. You can use that window to trace the path of the file. If this doesn't work for you, please post back with your results.
Be careful that you don't make any changes to the files and folders inside the iPhoto Library folder from the Finder (or any other application). iPhoto is a database application and has its own filing system, which must be left alone. Always manipulate your photos using iPhoto, or export copies from the library for use outside of iPhoto. If you think you may have damaged your library, you can spot check your photos. See if they display with the size slider all the way to the right (largest size). Double-click to see if they open in Edit mode. Right-click and choose "Show File" to see if iPhoto knows where they are. If these things function, then your library is in good shape. If not, post back for the steps to repair it (or start fresh).
what you said about the data folder is exactly what i did. can you explain again what the best thing for me to do is.
Step by step:
Use iPhoto to select the photos you want to upload for printing.
Tip: Shift-click the first and last photo to select a contiguous range;
Command-click to select or deselect discontiguous photos.
Tip: It can be convenient to create an album to gather your photos, then Select All photos in the album.
From the iPhoto File menu choose Export, then be sure the "File Export" tab is selected. Set the Format, Size, and Name options. You'll want the full-size images for best printing. Click the Export button.
A new dialog box will open so that you can choose the location for the exported copies. The easiest, most convenient place is the Desktop. Click the Desktop icon, then click the "New Folder" button. (Too many loose files on the Desktop can crash the Finder.) Name the folder, click Create, then click OK to export the photos to that folder.
When you are logged onto your Snapfish or Walgreens account, select the Desktop folder as your source when uploading the photos for printing.
When the upload is complete, you can drag that Desktop folder into the Finder Trash and delete it. Exports are copies - iPhoto retains your files.
If you wanted to burn a CD to take to a developer, the process is very similar. You would export to a Desktop folder, then burn that folder to the CD. You can use this method to back up your photos to disc. A disc made this way will only contain the photos, with no keywords, album info, or other iPhoto Library structures. It can be used with a computer that does not run iPhoto.
If you want to create a backup disc that does retain the iPhoto albums, keywords, and other metadata, you burn it using the iPhoto Share > Burn command. A better backup method is to save the entire iPhoto Library folder to an external hard drive.
Regards.

Photo quality low res in iMovie. I can't fix it.

No Matter what the quality of my image (jpeg), after I import it (from iPhoto or any other way, for that matter) the photo is low res and I cannot get a crisp image in iMovie 6.0.1.
iMovie 5 did a fine job of reproducing my images. Now, I am at my wits end. I cannot get a project started with iMovie 6 because the images look so horrible.
Is there something I'm missing?

You can use the "screenshot" method, which means just screenshot the picture when only the picture shows. Not any of the white spacing with edit and such on it. Then use the screenshotted picture as your background.

T400 boots in low res, then changes to high res once windows boots

when i boot windows vista it boots into a low resolution, and makes everything bigger. Once windows boots up the screen flickers and it changes to a higher resolution. how do I make it stay in the higher resolution?
T400
Intel® Core™2 Duo T9400 2.53 GHz__Windows 7 Professional__3GB Memory__160GB, 7200RPM Hard Drive__14.1” WXGA+TFT-CFL__ATI Mobility Radeon™ HD 3470--

This appears to be the solution (at least, it is for me). I can apply my changes to the low-resolution proxy by saving the mesh and then applying that same mesh to the high-resolution image. The large brush sizes (in comparison to the image resolution) that I am afforded in the low-res version are brought across to the high-res because the changes are not applied as brush strokes, but rather as alterations to an overall mesh. the changes to the mesh are what is transferred when I export and import.
Applying the mesh is pretty slow, and it requires a few tweaks at the high-res level, but it gets me 95% of the way there. I think this is workable.
To recap - here are the steps:
1) I make a low-resolution version of the image (like 1200px wide)
2) I make my edits to the image using Liquify
3) before committing the Liquify changes, I "Save Mesh" in the Liquify tool
4) I open my high-resolution image
5) I use liquify, but I do not use any brushes, but in stead load my saved mesh from the low-res
6) profit.
thanks for the help folks!
--------------S

ID CS 4 exporting PDF books with low-res graphics

I've been exporting ID CS 4 documents to PDF with absolutely no problems, but today I created a book containing multiple documents, and I'm running into a snag when exporting.
If I open a single document and export as PDF, everything is fine. All the images in the document are rendered in high resolution.
If I open a book containing that very same document as well as another document, then I export the book as PDF, many, but not all, of the graphics in the original document are rendered in very low resolution. See image below.
Why? I didn't change a single thing in the dialog box for exporting to PDF.
I did several tests and it appears that if I open all the documents which comprise the book, all the images in the exported PDF are high resolution as desired. However, ultimately I want to create a book with 120+ documents, and there's no way I can keep them all open in memory without ID crashing. Yes, I suppose I can open a subset of the documents, export them, then combine the PDFs in Acrobat, but that's a cludge workaround.
Surely ID CS4 should be able to properly export as PDF a book containing a lot of documents with images, but damned if I can figure out what's causing these low-res images to appear.
If anyone has a solution, I would be very grateful if you'd share it with me.

I don't have a lot of files to test with, but I have one book that has about a dozen component files and around 200 images that's still in CS4. I just tried and export withthe docs closed here, and ID opened them all, as expected, exported, and reclosed them. I see no signs of image degradation, but these are not scaled images -- they were all converted to the correct profiles and scaled in Photoshop and then re-linked during the editing process, and I run Windows, and I'm only at 6.0.5 because this book has a number of Illustrator charts that I spent hours getting right in the first edition and I didn't want to risk them changing, so it may be an apples to oranges comparison.
The last thing I have for a suggestion to try would be a manual prefs replacement (so you can put your current set back when it turns out to be irrelevant). See Replace Your Preferences
Other than that, I'd say you may have found yourself a bug, and there's not a chance in the world that it will ever be fixed for CS4.

Album artwork-how do i get rid of old low res images and get new artwork?

Before apple introduced the new artwork download, I spent ages searching the internet for album sleeves and copied them to itunes, but the quality of the images in some cases was very bad. I am trying to replace this artwork with the downloadable high quality images but I can't work it out. I have tried going to the itunes folder in the music section of the finder and deleting all album artwork and then starting a new album artwork download, but all my old crappy low res pictures turn up again after I have done it. Any clues please? I am sure I am missing something.
thanks

Select all the muisic you want to remove artwork from.
Right click - Get info.
iTunes willask if you wan tot edit info for multiple items at once. Click OK.
ONLY tick the box next to Artwork then Apply.
It should delete all artwork in those songs.

Ideas and Suggestions for Working with Low Res Video Files

Hi,
A client has asked me to take all of her low res videos she shot with her iPhone and put them on a DVD.
I've made her aware that the end result is not going to be a Hollywood production. I even did a test for her to show the difference between a low res clip and a HD clip. You can see these clips here:
http://designerandpublisher.com/hs/lowrestest.mp4
and
http://designerandpublisher.com/hs/hdtest.mp4
She understands and will fix her camera to shoot high-res next time. Anyway, the footage (330 minutes) I have looks like this when imported into Premiere Pro CS4:
I first just set up a 640x480 timeline and imported one of her clips. It doesn't look too bad. I'm not sure why that green bar is there:
Then I went into the timeline's properties to see if I can somehow enhance it once it goes onto a DVD via Encore:
But i'm not really sure if it's worth fiddling around with a customized timeline. I don't have my hopes up though but I'd appreciate it if anyone could tell me what they did in this type of situation. It seems like the 640x480 timeline, once brought into Encore and transcoded for the DVD, may work best.
Any ideas are appreciated. Thanks.
The Deaf Guy

I don't edit video from a cell phone, and you don't mention any particular problems loading/editing... but in case you do have general problems with any of the files, some reading to keep in mind
Iphone won't edit easily because it uses a variable frame rate - A fix in message #22 http://forums.adobe.com/thread/934466

How do I replace low res media with the hi res version of the same media?

How do I replace low res media with the hi res version of the same media without doing all my work all over again?
Message was edited by: Lemmontage

Assuming you used Smart Objects, just replace contents with the highres file.

Capturing Low Res?

Im new to Final Cut... i have used Avid for years... but i am now trying out Final Cut Studio... so far so good... but i have one problem. Is there anyway to capture low res footage? I am shooting on a Canon HV20 mini dv tape... and when i capture say 1 minute of footage its about 400mb??? at the size i cant fit anything on my computer... is there a way like with avid i can capture and edit in low res then when i'm finished with the project upres? Im using a Macbook (black one) 2gig i think. I dont want to have to haul around 20 500 gig drives!!! There must be a way right?

You didn't say what you were shooting, but my 1TB firewire drive will hold about 70 HOURS of DV footage at full resolution.
Don't know about your workflow but I sure prefer working with footage once and not having the hassle of downrez/uprez the way we used to have to do it in the dark ages.
In any event, you do not want to capture to your system drive, media should always be separated from the drive your operating system and programs are on.

1080p DLSR workflow issues( which low res format to use ? )

Hey, Im shooting on a DSLR (60D) I have adobe cs4 and Im on an acer 5738z specs are here http://www.amazon.co.uk/Acer-Aspire-Pentium-Processor-Premium/dp/B00284C97S.
So as you can guess my laptop wont let me playback in realtime which is no use. I have a video converter, and my plan is to edit the video I need in a format different from the native quicktime files, something low res that will allow me to playback, when finished my timeline, create a new project and import the old sequence timeline, when Im asked where the files are ill select the origianl high res quicktimes and export it. Im hoping this works but What low res format should I edit with and under what setting should It in, dv pal. and then the original hd files? avchd 1080p, or hdv 1080p or something else?
any input or advice on this subject would be gratefully appreciated.
Thanks.

I actually found out how it works:
1. Import HD content to FCPX (no proxy, no optimization)
2. Add .LRV file to Final Cut Events/YourEvent/Transcoded Media/Proxy Media and rename files to .mov
3. Restart FCPX (this was my mistake… FCPX showed "changed file")
4. Edit using proxy media, then change back to original media
5. Export
Exporting still takes ages but I only have to wait once
Best
Matt

Editing H264 in low res

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