Elgato TV tuner - advice needed?

I know this isn't strictly about AppleTV but I couldn't find the right place to post a topic about Elgato...
Hope someone can help me out here.
Thinking about getting Elgato eyeTV for christmas and I can't work out what's the best solution for me. I want to be able to watch and record TV on my mac, possibly while my kids are watching kids TV on the main television.
I'm in the UK and I've got an iMac OS X.4 and have a set-top cable TV box from Virgin (formerly NTL). Can I connect a Elgato TV tuner to one of these? Is it straight forward?
Or do I need to?
is it easier and better to simply use the tuner?
will this give me digital channels?
if so, do I need a roof aerial as I haven't got one.
If someone can advise me on what to buy that would really help.
Thanks very much in advance....

Not sure how you would, or even if you could connect to the cable top box you have, if you go the RF route you are most likely to need a roof top Ariel. The tuner does come with a small mobile Ariel but I haven't found them so good (not too bad if you are sat in a field with your laptop though)
You'll get much better answers though over at the eyetv lounge.

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Elgato TV Tuner for G4 Powerbook 17"

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PowerBook 17" & G4 Quicksilver desktop Mac OS X (10.3.9)

I've had my ElGato TV tuner for several years. I really like it. It works like a charm on my pb G4. You get three choices of picture size, smalll, medium and full screen.
Now I'm trying to figure out how to connect the pb to the TV. Somehow, I just can't figure out how to connect the S-video and the audio. Or, is it all contained in the S-video? Can anyone explain and/or tell me what kind of cable and connections I need?

HP HDX 16 (p/n: NK133AV) laptop with the built-in TV Tuner and need a replacement TV antenna

I have an HP HDX 16 (p/n: NK133AV) laptop with the built-in TV Tuner and need a replacement TV antenna..
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Hi,
You can order from HP directly on their webpage or you can use information in this document (page 3-5) to order the right part (or eBay).
Regards,
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**Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

Advice needed on buying iphone as gift

I went to apple store, they do not want to sell iphone to me unless I sign AT&T 2 years plan. I thought AT&T has locked the phone and users must subscribe in order to use it. Why Apple store still not allow me to buy?
Please advice, if I want to buy online iphone for my brother, do I or my brother have obligation to sign out AT&T plan?
One more advice needed, I found the shipment takes weeks, do I have option to arrange for self-collection?
My brother birthday is coming soon, I need above advice urgently.
Thank you very much

Tamara wrote:
I'm guessing English is not your first language. It's possible that you misunderstood them. Apple Store employees won't refuse to sell you an iPhone and you don't have to sign up for service in the store.
Well that's not entirely true.
Apple Stores have been instructed not to sell you an iPhone if any of the following is true:
You state that you will not be signing up with AT&T.
You do not have an ID from a US state, also indicating you will not be activating with AT&T
You do not have a credit card
For example, I've seen US Apple Store managers refuse to sell iPhones to European residents because of the AT&T lock-in.

Video intensive work on Mac Pro? Advice Needed

Hi everyone,
I've been originally saving up for a while now for an iMac 24" as it offers the best specification price wise. But now I leaning on the Mac Pro and therefore need some advice.
I know that there are alot of posts on advice - need to buy mac etc. so therfore I would really appreciate if I am afforded some help.
I am mostly going to do ALOT of video encoding (via handbrake) and I am looking for the best configuration available to achieve lowest waiting time.

I think you should go back and look at the other threads with advice, your budget. There is "ideal" and "affordable."
Will it pay for itself in 24 months so you can afford the next revision at that time?
Start with an 8-Core 3GHz.
Add a Port Multiplier controller and two drive cases, 5 drives each, nearly 400MB/sec RAID.
Throw in 8GB RAM.
Add in costs for software upgrades, two sets of backups, four internal 500GB drives.
Seagate has 750GB, as does WD. Hitachi has their $450 1000GB monster.
Give yourself time to build, test, and optimize your setup, and expect to change it over time as you learn more.
Can't afford that? then trim the 8-core. But Apple has shown how efficient next generation applications already are for video when it comes to 3GHz 8-core Mac Pro.

Had to have a rebuild of my laptop....advice needed!

Had to have a rebuild of my laptop....have now lost all my music from my itunes, but I can't transfer back on from my ipod. Also had to register my laptop (same) as another computers, so now no music showing as purchased, though I have. Also have hours of uploaded music from my own purchased, legitimate CDs, but won't transfer from ipod...it says it will erase. So very frustrated....thanks mr technician! PLEASE ....help, advice needed!

I believe that if you do a clean reinstall from your HD's recovery sector (D) or Recovery disks, the hard drive sector C is wiped clean. Everything goes, apps, data, address books, music, pix, viruses
Is that what you did?

I am using InDesign CS5. I have a body of text which is ranged left with tabbed indents. My client now wants the copy to be justifed, keeping the tabbed indents. Help and advice needed please!

I am using InDesign CS5. I have a body of text which is ranged left with tabbed indents. My client now wants the copy to be justifed, keeping the tabbed indents. Help and advice needed please!

Hi
That screen grab helps a lot. There’s a much easier way of doing what you’re doing.
Remove all your tabs and set the text in justified paragraphs.
I’ve typed in dummy text in the example I made below, but after “19.1” put in a space and put your blinking cursor after the space and before the ’N’ of ‘Notices'.
Then hold down the Command key and hit Backspace (on Mac at least - it’s the key between the Inverted commas/ apostrophe key and the return key).
The text will jump into place the way you want it to.
Hope that helps
Paul
PS You can set a tab, instead of using a space, in the description I gave above. So, after 19.1 or 19.2 or 19.185 etc etc insert a tab, then hit the Command Backspace after every paragraph number and they'll all line up exactly together. You'll find that editing text within the paragraphs
after you've set it will be LOADS easier this way.
You can put the tab anywhere you want it to be using 'Command-ShiftT' and putting a 'left align' tab just after the number. Just type the Command Backspace after the paragraph number and it'll work

MOVED: Various advice needed to overclock cpu using my MSI k8n platinum sli

This topic has been moved to Overclockers & Modding Corner.
Various advice needed to overclock cpu using my MSI k8n platinum sli

what HSF for cpu/ cooling for the case do you use? And also, where are the flashing lights?

Advice needed on suitability and hardware requirements...

Hiya folks...
I'm after a bit of advice...regarding whether or not Aperture will be suitable for me, considering my current Apple hardware and my current "workflow".
I'm fairly new to digital SLR photography (hobbyist only)...but have had a variety of non-SLR digital cameras over the years.
I shoot in raw and jpeg, maybe about 100 shots when I go out (landscape and general outdoor shots mainly, some wildlife). After I have deleted the stinkers, I'm usually left with 30-50 decent shots that I keep...my iPhoto library has about 1000 images that I like, and I'm assuming that Aperture wouldn't have performance issues with a library of that size, on my hardware.
From the library, I create web galleries, print out to A3 (max...usually 8"x6", some A4) and create photo slideshows on DVD/CD media.
I've been using a mixture of iPhoto, Photoshop Elements 3, and Photoshop CS.
iPhoto for photo import and organisation ; Photoshop Elements 3 for raw image manipulation, and minor tweaks ; Photoshop CS for the bulk of image processing. (The raw images produced by my camera, a Nikon D50, are not supported with the Camera raw plugin for Photoshop CS.)
Having to utilise 3 separate programs does grate after a while...and ideally, I would like to use a single program.
Aperture sounded ideal, but the £350 price is a little steep for a program that I may end up using as "iPhoto-on-steroids".
An alternative would be to upgrade to Adobe Photoshop CS2...although I'm not sure whether my software would meet the upgrade criteria...my copy of Photoshop CS was purchased via eBay (authentic CD, box and manuals), but the serial number, I later found out after purchase, has been distributed on P2P networks.
The combination of Adobe Bridge, the raw manipulation and editing features would mean, similar to Aperture, potentially a single program to cover all my needs.
So my options are...
1.Purchase Aperture for £350, which may be unsuitable (overkill) for my use (although I'm sure that over time I would use its features more and more)
2. Risk paying £150 for a Photoshop CS2 upgrade that may baulk at my dubious serial number for the "original" Photoshop CS.
3. Keep with my current software workflow...but dropping Photoshop CS, as my conscience is shouting fairly loudly. I'd miss the curves feature, and be out of pocket to the tune of £125...but that's my fault for not assuming the eBay offer was too good to be true...
4. Any other alternatives...?
So...knowing my "workflow", usage and requirements...can anyone offer any advice?
Thanks for your time.
iMac G5 (20" Rev B) Mac OS X (10.4.3) 2GB RAM

Rob, I'll take a quick shot at this for you.
I'm fairly new to digital SLR photography (hobbyist
only)...but have had a variety of non-SLR digital
cameras over the years.
First, welcome to digital SLR photography.
I shoot in raw and jpeg, maybe about 100 shots when I
go out (landscape and general outdoor shots mainly,
some wildlife). After I have deleted the stinkers,
I'm usually left with 30-50 decent shots that I
keep...my iPhoto library has about 1000 images that I
like, and I'm assuming that Aperture wouldn't have
performance issues with a library of that size, on my
hardware.
You shouldn't have any performance problems with a library this size.
From the library, I create web galleries, print out
to A3 (max...usually 8"x6", some A4) and create photo
slideshows on DVD/CD media.
I've been using a mixture of iPhoto, Photoshop
Elements 3, and Photoshop CS.
Sounds pretty standard so far (except for using both Elements and CS).
iPhoto for photo import and organisation ; Photoshop
Elements 3 for raw image manipulation, and minor
tweaks ; Photoshop CS for the bulk of image
processing. (The raw images produced by my camera, a
Nikon D50, are not supported with the Camera raw
plugin for Photoshop CS.)
Pretty much the same thing I have done (only I use PS CS2 for everything). One note. If you are considering Aperture, I would strongly suggest that you put some samples of your images on a flash card and take them down to somewhere that has Aperture loaded and available for evaluation. Judge for yourself how Aperture handles your images. This is what I did with my D2X images and was happy with the results.
Having to utilise 3 separate programs does grate
after a while...and ideally, I would like to use a
single program.
Keeping in mind that Aperture was never meant to be a replacement for either Elements or Photoshop. It does offer some correction capabilities, but more along the lines of Adobe Camera Raw (though not as full featured.) Also, there have been a number of posts here where people have noted that the adjustments that they are making in Aperture aren't as good as with ACR. I can't see any difference on my system using my D2X files.
Aperture sounded ideal, but the £350 price is a
little steep for a program that I may end up using as
"iPhoto-on-steroids".
Again, I HIGHLY recommend you go somewhere where Aperture is loaded and you have the chance to use it yourself to see if it is indeed "ideal", before you buy.
An alternative would be to upgrade to Adobe Photoshop
CS2...although I'm not sure whether my software would
meet the upgrade criteria...my copy of Photoshop CS
was purchased via eBay (authentic CD, box and
manuals), but the serial number, I later found out
after purchase, has been distributed on P2P
networks.
This, I can't help you with.
The combination of Adobe Bridge, the raw manipulation
and editing features would mean, similar to Aperture,
potentially a single program to cover all my needs.
As I noted, I have CS2. I still use Bridge and ACR. In fact, prior to getting Aperture, Bridge was the answer to my organizational prayers, letting me easily sort through shots from a shoot to get the few I really wanted to keep. To me, adding Bridge and upgrading ACR in CS2 was worth the upgrade cost of the program.
So my options are...
1.Purchase Aperture for £350, which may be unsuitable
(overkill) for my use (although I'm sure that over
time I would use its features more and more)
True. But, you need to determine if it is for you now.
2. Risk paying £150 for a Photoshop CS2 upgrade that
may baulk at my dubious serial number for the
"original" Photoshop CS.
Again, I can't help you here.
3. Keep with my current software workflow...but
dropping Photoshop CS, as my conscience is shouting
fairly loudly. I'd miss the curves feature, and be
out of pocket to the tune of £125...but that's my
fault for not assuming the eBay offer was too good to
be true...
Your call.
4. Any other alternatives...?
Maybe someone else has one to offer.
Good luck.
Jeff Weinberg

Advice needed with mix of Bass sound.

Apologies to all as I'm sure this is a 'newb' question, but I need help!
I'm at the final stages of mixing a track. It's all sounding great, apart from one small section in the middle, where the only sounds playing are the kick drum and bass sound.
It's House music, the bass sound is a regular fingered bass.
The problem is when certain lower notes are played, there seems to be too much 'sub-bass' and the speakers vibrate quite annoyingly. I've tested it, and it happens on nearly all speakers I've tried it on.
In the rest of the track, when other sounds are also in the mix with the bass, it is fine. It's just when the bass is alone it seems to cause this result.
I've tried EQing out the lower bass frequencies and fiddling a bit with compression, but I always seem to end up filtering out too much bass (in fact, even when I remove nearly all the lower bass frequencies, the 'annoying' vibration is still there), or removing all life from the original sound.
I know it's very hard to offer advice when just going off a flakey description, but any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

Create a cycle containing your middle section. Open the channel EQ, and click the 'analyze' button. the analyze display should give you an approximation where the troublesome frequency is. Then select the appropriate band, and set the Q very narrow (higher number, probably around 50), and drag down the level to cut. Be quite extreme in cut dB.
Now slooowly drag the cut left-right around the frequency in question and you should be able to find the point where the resonance is reduced. Now tweak so that your cut is the minimum you can get away with, and fine tune.
Hope this helps.

Reporting database advice needed

I need some advice from you folks that have been doing this a long time.
I've implemented a reporting database using materialized views. It runs on HPUX 11.23, using Oracle 10.2.0.2.Bottom line is that the performance on it is HORRIBLE. I'm talking on a scale of 1 to 10, it's a 1.
Are there any other options to doing a reporting database that updates nightly from the production database?
I'm getting hit hard to get this thing up and functional. But it's so poor, that people won't use it. I've run the sql through the tuner, and it comes back good. Is there some other way of looking into this thing to see where the brick wall is?
I had thought about using a standby database, running in read only mode. But I learned that once brought online in read only mode, it doesn't update the logs anymore. I guess I could run some nightly scripts to bring it back off line and into recovery mode to update all the logs, then return to read only?
Is there better options out there? I'm at a loss at this point.
Thanks.

Being that the bad performance is coming off a different server, if I understand the environment, have your compared the hardware capability including cpu, memory, and disk?
What kind of disk do you have, is it stripped, etc ...?
Are both databases using the same version of Oracle?
Are both databases running on the same OS and version?
What do the OS level IO, memory, and cpu statistics look like?
What kind of network connection do you have between the two machines? Has anyone verified that the network card is set to full duplex? Has anyone even looked at the network for this situation?
HTH -- Mark D Powell --
PS - Is the second server physical or virtual? There are a lot of things that can impact performance. You have not provided much in the way of what the environment looks like. Reviewing the answers to the above questions may allow you to spot the problem.
Edited by: MarkDPowell on May 8, 2009 5:02 PM Add PS

Advice needed on Waits and Timeouts - 8i on HPUnix

I need some straight advice...We are running 8i on HPUnix. We have been tuning this thing for 6 weeks now and have most things under control (disk I/O, various cache hit ratios, etc.)...but...we still see a large number of waits...at least I think its a large number.
Question 1. If the instance has been up for 72 hours and I see a count of io done waits for DBW0 of 2,966,179 with 78041 timeouts (as an example), is this a large number? Nothing I have seen in the Oracle documentation gives me a sense of scale.
Question 2. What events do we have the ability to tune?
Question 3. For those that we can tune...how do you tune them?
Kurt
813 483 2153

I need some straight advice...We are running 8i on HPUnix. We have been tuning this thing for 6 weeks now and have most things under control (disk I/O, various cache hit ratios, etc.)...but...we still see a large number of waits...at least I think its a large number.
Question 1. If the instance has been up for 72 hours and I see a count of io done waits for DBW0 of 2,966,179 with 78041 timeouts (as an example), is this a large number? Nothing I have seen in the Oracle documentation gives me a sense of scale.
Question 2. What events do we have the ability to tune?
Question 3. For those that we can tune...how do you tune them?
Kurt
813 483 2153

Multiple device syncing advice needed and appreciated.

Hey everyone, happy holidays to everyone
I need some advice from you Apple lovers out there if you can spend some time replying. Thanks alot in advanced
My devices and current status
13" Macbook Pro with 8gig RAM with lion OS - Mosty used for word processing, DJing, low Internet usage now that i have Ipad, photo management, DVD ripping etc etc - i use this as my main device to organise emails and i purchase most apps, music and films on this device too
Ipad2 - Mostly for media content, web browsing, Youtube, playing games, FB, watching films. I use this device for fun not functionality or work related things
Iphone 4 - Usual phone usage, I use my phone as my main device for iCal, contacts, checking emails/messages on the move
2GB time capsule - brand new in the box as yet unused
Generally speaking i get confused or change my mind frequently about what to sync to which device, i started off using icloud but then things got confusing and i had things real messed up, multiple same contacts, apps on differnet device, differnet music on all 3 devices so now for the moment i think of my Macbook as the main device with both my iphone and ipad backed up to the Macbook. I then back up all of this on a regular 500g external Hard Drive.
So my questions are as follows
1. Can and should i use icloud to back up my devices and if so how should i do this effectivly
2. What syncing procedure would suit me best
3. How should i integrate Timecapsule to my devices
Any other suggestions would really be apreciated
Thanks again

The second part puzzles me - excuse me (but i honestly don't know) do both units give off a wifi signal of roughly equal 'amounts'?
Yes. Since both are connected by "Ethernet" each base station is its own wireless network and you have a few options on how best to configure them.
One of those options is to give both wireless networks the same Network Name (or SSID) so that you can, for example, "walk" a laptop from one to the other and stay connected. This is known as a roaming network.
If this is something that you don't desire or have a requirement for, then leaving them as two separate wireless networks would work just as well.
So what i am asking - i guess - is can i increase the distance the wifi signal reaches of the second unit (the time capsule - that is wired to the airport extreme)
To extend the wireless range of the Time Capsule (TC) you would need another 802.11n AirPort, like the AirPort Express Base Station (AXn). This should get a stronger signal out to the garden. Of course, it would really depend on the distance from the TC to where you would like to place the AXn to get the best results.
Let me know if you need help configuring the base stations.

I have constant K8N Neo2 problems advice needed. (long) Update

I need some advice on what my problem might be and if I need to RMA the motherboard or power supply.
I have a new Athlon 64 3500+ processor, MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum BIOS v1.3 motherboard, with 2 512MB DIMMs of Corsair Value Select Memory. I have had and am still having a series of crashes and lock-ups I will list below. FULL SYSTEM SPECS BELOW AT BOTTOM.
I initially installed the motherboard with a SINGLE 120GB hard drive from the old machine and the installed the memory in memory slots 1 & 2 to try dual channel memory mode. I then formatted the C partition and did a clean install of Windows XP Professional with SP2, installed the MSI drivers on the installation CD that came with the motherboard (Nvidia nForce3 Version 5.03 System Drivers, Realtek gigabit ethernet driver, Realtek AC97 audio driver) & the GeForce v66.93 video driver. I then got my first blue screen "MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION" crash, I ignored this crash and rebooted. I shortly got a black screen crash which I also ignored.
I then installed a new 200GB hard drive and a old 120GB so I could transfer the data from the old 120GB to the new 200GB drive. The data transfer went fine. As I was preparing to install some applications I then got my second blue screen "MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION" crash. Suspecting the Corsair Value Select Memory could not handle dual channel I ran Memtest-86 for 2 passes and got NO errors with the memory in dual channel mode, so I left it.
With my data backed up on the 200GB new drive I removed the new 200GB and the second 120GB hard did another clean install of Windows XP Professional with SP2, this time with Nvidia’s nForce3 Version 5.10 system drivers, the Realtek gigabit ethernet driver and Realtek AC97 audio driver from the motherboard installation CD & the GeForce v66.93 video driver. I downloaded the latest version of Core Center and installed it and got it working. CPU temperatures were showing a low of around 29C, average of about 44C, and spikes at full loads of about 55-57C. I then ran Ghost to back up the boot partition. I installed all my applications, reinstalled the 200GB and 120 GB hard drives moved some data around with no crashes.
I then installed Rome Total War and played for about 2 hours and had one black screen crash after the reboot played for 4 more hours with no problems so I shut down and went to bed.
In the morning I got up started the computer let it run for awhile the CPU temperatures were in the low 30Cs to low 40Cs I tried to copy some files from the D partition to desktop and the screen freezes I waited about 5 min. with no change and no drive light activity so I hit the reset button. Upon reboot I got a ‘no system disk found” error, I went into the BIOS and checked the drive set-ups and boot priority, everything was correct. I tried for a half hour to get the system to boot with on luck. I used the Ghost to restore the partition image I had made earlier and still no boot. I finally decided to reinstall XP again put in the installation CD and when I got to the screen where you decide where to install Windows I changed my mind quit and bingo the machine boots into the restored Ghost partition???? I started to reinstall my applications got one more blue screen"MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION" crash and another screen freeze that I had to reset.
So I decided to start from real scratch I removed the new 200GB and the second 120GB hard drive ran Killdisk on the boot drive, made a new clean 20GB C partition and did another clean install of Windows XP Professional with SP2, this time with Nvidia’s nForce3 Version 5.10 system drivers, the Realtek gigabit ethernet driver and Realtek AC97 audio driver from the motherboard installation CD & the GeForce v66.93 video driver. I installed the latest version of Core Center and installed it and got it working. CPU temps were as before.
I tested the memory with Memtest-86 again 2 passes no errors. Just in case I then moved one of the memory DIMMs to memory slot 3 out of dual channel mode and to a slower speed and ran Memtest-86 for about 20 hours with 21 passes with no memory errors, so I think memory can be ruled out as the problem.
Next I installed my applications I got one screen freeze that I had to reset. I reinstalled the other 200GB and 120GB hard drives. After I got all my applications install and Ghosted the boot partition. I have had one more one screen freeze that I had to reset.
I have a problem I simply cannot figure out. The memory is obliviously fine. While I have seen CPU temperatures spikes as high as 57C the CPU temps as reported by Core Center averages in the high 30Cs or low 40Cs and most of crashes/lock-ups don’t seem to occur during high CPU load/temp. The power supply might be a little light for the system but many of the crashes have occurred with only one hard drive in the system. The fact after one for the lock-ups the system would not boot for awhile and then magically just booted gives me concern there might be a motherboard problem.
Any solution ideas would be appreciated. Should I RMA the power supply, the motherboard, or both.
Full system specs:
Processor: AMD Athlon 64 3500+, Socket 939, 0.13 Micron, with retail heatsink and fan.
Motherboard: MSI K8N Neo2 Platinum BIOS v1.3
Memory: Corsair VS1GBKIT400 1GB (2 x 512MB DIMMs) Kit DDR400 PC3200 CAS2.5 Value Select Memory - one 512MB DIMM in memory slot 1 and one 512MB DIMM in memory slot 3 running at DDR333 speed.
Video Card: Chaintech GeForce4 Ti 4600
Drives:
Maxtor 6Y120L0 120GB hard drive as master on IDE channel 1. 3 partitions C (boot partition), D, & E.
Seagate ST3200822A 200GB hard drive as slave on IDE channel 1. Single partition.
Maxtor 6Y120L0 120GB hard drive as master on IDE channel 2. Single partition.
Sony DRU-500AX DVD-RW as slave on IDE channel 2.
SATA disabled in BIOS.
No PCI cards.
Case: Antec SX 835
4 80mm case fans (2 fans in front blowing in, 2 fans in rear of case blowing out).
Power Supply: Thermaltake W0008RUC Silent PurePower 420W w/Active PFC
Power Supply Specifications:
Maximum Power: 420W
PFC: Acitve
Power Good Signal: 100-500ms
Hold-up Time: > 16ms at Full Load
Efficiency: > 65%
Over Voltage Protection: +5V trip pointInput Voltage: 100 VAC / 240 VAC
Input Frequency Range: 47-63 Hz
Input Current: 8.0A
Output: +3.3V@30A;+5V@40A;[email protected];+12V@18A;[email protected];+5VSB@2A

Quote
I then installed Rome Total War and played for about 2 hours and had one black screen crash
Great isn't it (although not without the occasional crash)
Would you say it's better but not there yet ? or the same ?
I thought the same as Ibn Quote
Your PS unit is a little weak for that much hardware, but I doubt thats your problem as well
re your PSU, given youv'e got a less hungry Graphic Card, thought it was at worse marginal, have seen worse.
To investigate further it may be worth diconnecting one of your HD, maybe the 200gb for a time.
It's a small thing but it may be slightly better to have both your maxtors together on IDE channel 1, given their identical.
good luck - keeo us posted

Mid 2010 MacBook Pro - Logic Board Failure - Advice Needed

Hello all,
I could really use some advice.
I have a MacBook Pro that I bought through the Apple Online Store roughly around September of 2010. A couple of weeks after buying it I had to take it to the Apple Store in London's White City due to a keyboard backlight issue. About a week later I collected the MBP and the following day had to take it back as the technician that worked on it had not tightened the display brackets up leaving it a bit floppy.
Now I have serious issues with it. Recently the MacBook has been suffering from freezing up, booting issues and the display randomly shutting off (going black, no pixelating or anything) to the point the machine has become unusable. 2 days ago I took the MBP along to an appointment at the Genius Bar at London's Regent Street Apple Store, I also took along a copy of an Apple knowledge base article regarding this very issue. The knowledge base suggests that on any OS below Mountain Lion a software update is required, for ML or Mavericks an appointment with a service agent is required. During the appointment the Mac Genius suggested it may be a software issue, they would wipe the system and re-install Mavericks then test the machine, I told him I had done this a few days earlier but I guess they have to follow process. He then went on to suggest the display may be faulty, I told him I had no reason to suspect that was the case and moved the screen forwards and backwards at varying speeds without a glimmer of a flicker. At this point after reading about this issue on various forums prior to the appointment I felt that the guy was trying to imply anything maybe at fault but deliberately steering clear of suggesting the logic board, this is just my gut feeling however and i'm perfectly capable of being wrong but I do not feel I am! Anyhow I then proceeded to demonstrate the issue whilst the machine was on, warmed up and right in front of him. I gently and slightly lifted the front left corner of the machine a little way off of the counter, just enough to obviously flex the logic board by a minuscule amount and immediately the display went into a frenzy of going off and on.
So I left the MBP with them for the guys to do their thing. Today I received the following email:
"We have attempted to repair your machine by erasing all the data off your machine and reinstalling the latest operating system, Mavericks. This has not resolved the issue of the screen going black when in use. The issue has occurred again for a very short and brief few times once the machine had fully turned on and after testing the issue did not appear again.
I'm sure the issue will more likely occur again, to repair the machine we would need to replace a part known as the main logic board. This repair is very expensive and will come roughly to £418.80."
£418.80 GBP, that's pretty much 25% of the original purchase price of the machine new, a Premium 'Pro' labelled machine just 3 years old at that. I cannot possibly afford to pay for the repair. I really despair.
This MBP has done no work hard enough for it to get stressed. It is used for some web surfing, online shopping, email, online flash based games but mostly for my kids homework. It has spent it's entire life on a table in our living room with the exception of it's Genius Bar trips.
I love Apple products, it's why as a family we own so many off them. Too many to list on a public forum as I don't want would be burglars inviting themselves around sometime. This issue has tainted my perception of both Apple and it's products. Not so much because of the fault, machines become faulty. No because it's a premium machine that cost me £2100 new and is little more than a paperweight at present just 3 years down the line. Some part of me if i'm honest was wishing but more than that expecting a company like Apple to say along the lines of "This has happened, it shouldn't have and will be repaired at no charge". There are many people suffering this kind of problem with this model and the existence of the knowledge base article must mean Apple knows it too. Just 3 years, £300 PCs last longer than that i'm sure. It does seem to be a very short lifespan for such a high end machine.
My apologies for droning on but I can neither afford the repair or do without the computer, my son is in his final GCSE year at school and my daughter in her pre GCSE year so a computer is critical for school homework research etc. I just do not know how to move forward, I haven't even picked the machine up yet!
This isn't a stomping Apple, one man crusade. I just need my MacBook fixed.
If anyone has had this problem and had it satisfactory resolved, knows who to speak to that may help resolve the issue please let me know.
Any other advice will be more than welcome.

Ive repaired 1000s of laptops over the years (translate: diagnose and replace parts).
Its not that old, Ive owned 100s of laptops (most were free) ....some I still have are nearly 13 years old and still perfect, ....some extremely expensive ones died in under a year.
other than becoming obsolete at some point, there isnt really any "will spoil on" data like Milk for solid state computer parts, ....alas.
You can have a $5000 laptop die in 4 months, and a junker one keep kicking after 10 years.... Ive seen that firsthand countless times.
Common logic dictates that "very expensive = long life" in computers,..... but all the repair people will tell you just the opposite.
I know you have a gripe, I get that all too well honestly .

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