Emac power button

hi everyone i just broke my emacs power button when ii was upgrading the hd and the entire cord was ripped in half and need a way of turning it on by monday
thanks
tyler

I'm in WA state, even if time weren't of the essence, freight is hefty on eMacs, I wonder if there's one closer cheaper than freight?
http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/search/sys/?s=999&
This page isn't loading fully for me, so can't see how much it is...
http://www.americanlisted.com/wisconsin_49/computers_and_parts_34/g4_emac_200_16 562485.html

Similar Messages

EMac power button broken off retaining ring!

Well, we managed soldered the broken power button cable I mentioned back onto the logic board (we did this by cutting off the connector and permanently soldering the cables to the correct spots on the board, BUT, the power button itself is now broken! Here are pics...
http://pics.livejournal.com/wile_e2005/pic/00056a89/
Behind the button.
http://pics.livejournal.com/wile_e2005/pic/00057fq6/
Retaining ring.
The cable is fine, but now it's the button that is the problem! Does this need to be soldered back on too, or is there some other way? Or should I shell out $20 for a new eMac power button?
It may be the shortened cable that caused this, and I am not sure how this can be worked around.

Is there a way to start the eMac WITHOUT the power drive temporarily? According to this quote from another website...
{quote} The only way to turn it on now is to place a wire (I used a wire twist tie.) that connects the Black and Red leads on the connector for the power button. This is done by placing the wire on the top of the connector where you can see metal showing. This will turn on the Mac. I would recommend turning on the option to have the mac reboot after a power failure and keep it plugged into a power strip that you turn off. (I use mine as a server so I never usually turn it off unless I need to do maintenance.)
So in other words, does this mean I could put a twist tie on the white connector thingy that goes to the power button retainer ring? Or is it more complicated than that?

EMac power button workaround

Hi,
My emac is a 2003 model, 1Ghz processor, and the power button kept getting dodgier and dodgier over the last year or two, so I started just leaving the emac running and/or relying on the scheduled wake-up to start it. Then my two-year old decided to shut off the power strip it was plugged into recently, and the battery is dead, so the scheduled start wasn't happening, and the button just wouldn't turn it on. I took the shell off to check out the power button, and when I tried to push the button through the ring it sits in the button and the little disc of circuit board that's part of it separated from the rectangular plastic connector piece that connects it to the cable.
I found an archived thread in this community that addressed bypassing the button, with solution identified from another site as follows:
"The only way to turn it on now is to place a wire (I used a wire twist tie.) that connects the Black and Red leads on the connector for the power button. This is done by placing the wire on the top of the connector where you can see metal showing. This will turn on the Mac."
"Spudnuty" on this site then agreed as follows:
"You have to strip the wire and plug it into the red socket and short it to the black. You can also access these at the exposed locking tabs on the side of the connector. Connections are electrically made."
I've tried this with no luck. First problem is the cable to the power button has two black wires (one narrower and shiny, the other slightly larger and dull) and one red (narrower and shiny). But I tried shorting all combinations and nothing seems to be turning the thing on.
Does that mean my problem is more than the power button? I had the shell still off when I was trying this - is there some kind of safety system keeping it off when the shell is off? I'm loathe to spend $40 on a new emac button when something for $3.50 from radio shack to short two wires will do the trick.
Any suggestions are welcome.
Thanks,
kfdc

kfdc,
Here's a pic of the back of the switch itself with electrical connections noted.
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll306/spudnuty/?action=view&current=eMacSwitc hcircuitboardback.jpg&jwidget_action=album
and a pic of the side you push with the cover off:
http://s291.photobucket.com/albums/ll306/spudnuty/?action=view&current=eMacpower switchactionside.jpg&jwidget_action=album
As I recall the shiny black wire is a shield lead, dull black is ground and the red is B+.
You can tell by the way they're connected to the back of the power button.
BTW as I recall the wire I used to do the shorting on the female plug from the eMac was a single strand of wire teased from an 18 GA stranded wire. That thing is teeny!
Also this is from the service manual for the 800-1GHz model. The other was the 1 and 1.25 GHz.
"9 Verify the battery is good before replacing modules. A drained battery may be indicative of a
crashed Power Management Unit. Does the battery measure at least +3.5v? If not, replace
the battery and reset the PMU (see next step)."
"5 Touch the metal surface inside the computer. Then unplug the power cord.This helps protect the
computer from damage caused by electrostatic discharge. Important: To avoid electrostatic
discharge, always ground yourself by touching metal before you touch any parts or install components
inside the computer. To avoid generating static electricity, do not walk around the room until you have
finished the procedure and closed the computer."
"6 Press the PMU reset button (shown below (It's to the right when the PRAM battery is to the left-spudnuty)) once and then proceed to step 7. Do NOT press the
PMU reset button a second time because it could crash the PMU chip.
7 WAIT ten seconds before connecting the power cord and powering the computer on. If the
computer powers on, go to the next step. If the computer does not power on, there is something
else wrong with the computer, refer to the symptom/cure, “No Power” in this chapter."
The other problem could be that that connector assembly is bad/broken. It's very easy to damage that little lead when you take that outer case off (Did that!).
Spudnuty

EMac 1.25 Power button logic board connector snapped

While installing a new HD on my 1.25 eMac, I snapped off the connector on my logic board for the power button. It was held in place by four small bent wires coming out of the bottom of the connector soldered to 4 pads on the logic board. Does anyone have a quick fix, or can forward me a photo of their connector so I can orient the connector properly when I try to reconnect it? No local repair shop will touch it. Thanks for your help!

You have a 1.25 GHz logic board, and your picture shows the underside of the assembly. The connector mounts on the opposite side with the pins passing through the board to the side of it which is pictured, and are soldered to the side which you show. The solid edge of the keyed connector shell faces toward the edge of the PCB, which is identified as side D in your picture.
The connector could not possibly have been mounted to the underside of the board and soldered on the top of it, as you seem to describe. And, no - it would not be properly pinned if you were to mount it on the underside, as the the pins would be reversed.

Keyboard with Power Button - are there any and which ones.

In the process of DIY repair of the SuperDrive, I broke the power connection button on the case of the emac after the repairs were done...I WAS SO close to finishing this repair and now I can't even turn it on.
Please help.
Does this keyboard have a power button?
Kensington Slim Type Keyboard for Mac ( 64366 )
emac 800 mHz Mac OS X (10.4.4)

683/3129
One keyboard I know has a power button is the Matias TactilePro.
But it won't help you because your Mac is one of the new models that can't be powered this way.
Good luck!
Axl

Alternate Power Button?

eMac / OS X 10.4.9
Becoming concerned that power button might be wearing out.
Is it possible to use applescript or some other method to program one of the keys on the keyboard to be used as a power button?
Does anyone know if there is a contemporary keyboard on the market with a key that serves as a power button?
Using an ADB/USB adapter, if I hooked up my old keyboard, which has a power button key, would that work with the eMac?
Thank you.

Thanks for your responses. However, I'm not having a problem with shutting down. This is not an issue with programming certain keys to perform certain functions while the computer is booting. It's mechanical in nature involving the standard procedure of turning on the computer with the power button. It's now necessary to press the power button twice in order to start up. I did some searching on the internet and found other people with this problem. One person said he had to press the power button 10 times. Also, from other items I read, it appears that an eMac won't respond to a power up command from a keyboard. For now, rather than wear out the button even further, I've decided to just use the sleep function.

EMac power headache! :(

I've had my eMac for almost 4 years (this August). Since the beginning I've had problems with the power, but because I'm stupid I didn't get it fixed when it was under the warranty since it had only happened once or twice.
The problem has gotten worse in the last 2 months. Before this, it never really happened. Sometimes it will be a number of days before I can actually use my eMac.
What happens:
I turn it on, I hear it come on, but nothing comes up on the screen. I turn it off by holding the power button, I leave it unplugged for hours and sometimes a couple of days and then I give it another shot. Sometimes it makes these weird beeping sounds, and most of the time you just hear the computer come up but nothing comes up on the screen and the normal "DUNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN" doesn't sound off.
Does anyone have an idea what's going on? I tried looking for a number to call and couldn't find one. I'm just afraid to lose all my music & pictures, I expected better quality from apple

cynzilla,
Welcome to the Apple Discussions!
If the computer is getting power, as idicated by being able to hear the fans running and by the front power LED lighting up (can you let us know if the poer LED does indeed light up or not?), but with no display, there's likely an intermittent cold solder joint somewhere in the analog/CRT assembly. Such faults are nearly impossible to pin down to a specific component and even harder to fix. You can contact an Apple Authorized Service Provider (AASP) to ask about a repair (which would actually be a replacement of the analog/CRT assembly). Unfortunately, that would almost surely cost more than the computer is now worth.
Especially if you or a friend have an old VGA monitor lying about in the back of a closet somewhere, you could try using the US$20 (approx.) Apple miniVGA adapter to connect a VGA monitor to the eMac VGA port. If the problem is in the CRT drive circuitry, that would make the computer still usable. If you take the computer to an AASP for a repair estimate, you could ask them to check if the miniVGA port output is good before buying the adapter.
If you have access to another Firewire-equipped Mac, you can get your personal data (music and photo libraries) off the eMac by booting it as the target in FireWire target disk mode with the other Mac as the host.

EMac Power Issues

I Swapped out the HD on a working eMac this morning but now I can not even get the machine to turn on. This is my first attempt at taking an eMac apart so I made sure that I plugged everything in again and it looks fine...any advice on what I might be doing wrong?

Are you SURE you plugged the power button back in? Does the eMac do ANYTHING when you push the botton?
Patrick

HT1384 My lock screen/power button on my iPod Touch is broken, and I need some assistance.

As the title suggests, I can not use the lock screen/power button on my iPod Touch, it is broken. I can use Adaptive Touch to turn the screen on and off at will, and also turn my device off. But if I turn it off, I don't know how to get it to turn back on. Could I just plug it into a charger and turn it back on, or would I need to plug it into my computer? Please help, in a few days I won't have access to it for 9 weeks, I need immediate help.

If you power off the iPod, it will turn back on if you connect it to a charger like a wall charger or a computer. I just checked with a charging source to confirm. I knew it did it with a computer.

I have frequent instances of my Macbook Pro beeping 3 times and then I have to forcefully shut it down by pressing the power button. What is this all about? Please help. Thank you.

I have frequent instances of my Macbook Pro beeping 3 times and then I have to forcefully shut it down by pressing the power button. What is this all about? Please help. Thank you.
I saw this report being sent to Apple:
Interval Since Last Panic Report: 581719 sec
Panics Since Last Report: 10
Anonymous UUID: F4CF708D-D85C-4EC5-8047-4FC22C6B03AF
Fri Mar 7 13:00:14 2014
panic(cpu 0 caller 0xffffff80002d1208): Kernel trap at 0xffffff800020c590, type 14=page fault, registers:
CR0: 0x0000000080010033, CR2: 0x0000000000000000, CR3: 0x0000000007541000, CR4: 0x0000000000040660
RAX: 0xffffff8000000000, RBX: 0xffffff800d35a870, RCX: 0xffffff800cf55cd8, RDX: 0xffffff80008a8fcc
RSP: 0xffffff805e5f3d60, RBP: 0xffffff805e5f3da0, RSI: 0x000000001dcd6500, RDI: 0xffffff800d168778
R8: 0x0000000000000001, R9: 0xffffff805e5f3e88, R10: 0x0000000000000011, R11: 0x0000000000000000
R12: 0x0000000000000000, R13: 0xffffff800d168770, R14: 0xffffff800d168778, R15: 0x0000000000000000
RFL: 0x0000000000010082, RIP: 0xffffff800020c590, CS: 0x0000000000000008, SS: 0x0000000000000010
Error code: 0x0000000000000000
Backtrace (CPU 0), Frame : Return Address
0xffffff805e5f3a00 : 0xffffff8000204d15
0xffffff805e5f3b00 : 0xffffff80002d1208
0xffffff805e5f3c50 :
Model: MacBookPro8,1, BootROM MBP81.0047.B27, 2 processors, Intel Core i5, 2.3 GHz, 4 GB, SMC 1.68f99
Graphics: Intel HD Graphics 3000, Intel HD Graphics 3000, Built-In, 384 MB
Memory Module: global_name
AirPort: spairport_wireless_card_type_airport_extreme (0x14E4, 0xD6), Broadcom BCM43xx 1.0 5.100.198.104.5)
Bluetooth: Version 2.4.5f3, 2 service, 12 devices, 1 incoming serial ports
Serial ATA Device: Hitachi HTS545032B9A302, 298.09 GB
Serial ATA Device: OPTIARC DVD RW AD-5970H
USB Device: FaceTime HD Camera (Built-in), 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x8509, 0xfa200000 / 3
USB Device: Hub, 0x0424 (SMSC), 0x2513, 0xfa100000 / 2
USB Device: BRCM2070 Hub, 0x0a5c (Broadcom Corp.), 0x4500, 0xfa110000 / 5
USB Device: Bluetooth USB Host Controller, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x821a, 0xfa113000 / 8
USB Device: Apple Internal Keyboard / Trackpad, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x0245, 0xfa120000 / 4
USB Device: Hub, 0x0424 (SMSC), 0x2513, 0xfd100000 / 2
USB Device: IR Receiver, 0x05ac (Apple Inc.), 0x8242, 0xfd110000 / 3

Hmm. The problem still may be the RAM - Apple buys the RAM it puts in its machines from third-party vendors (usually Hynix) so it could be a RAM problem.
There are a couple of things that you can do yourself before taking your machine into an Apple Store or an AASP... download and run an application named Rember that will run a RAM test for you - let it run for a couple of hours or even overnight. If it turns out that your RAM is faulty, Rember will let you know. If it is faulty, then you have a couple of options - replace the RAM yourself or (particularly if you're under warranty still) take the machine to an Apple Store or AASP and have them replace the RAM.
If Rember finds no fault with the RAM, then you'll need to take it into an Apple Store/AASP and get a free diagnosis on the machine. Three beeps do usually indicate faulty RAM, but if it tests good with Rember you likely have another problem - it could be something as simple as the RAM, somehow, not seated correctly or signs of another hardware problem.
Run Rember first... call back with results.
Good luck,
Clinton

I am getting frequent lock-ups and blue screens during boot up. The lock ups occur during normal use and I cannot click anything or force quit. The cursor shows something is loading, but never stops. I have to use power button. Ideas?

I am getting frequent lock-ups and blue screens during boot up on my Mac Pro. The lock- ups occur sometimes during normal use and I cannot click anything or force quit. The cursor shows something is loading, but never stops. I have to use power button.
I had the Mac Defender malware and I have used apple jack but still having issues.

I am getting frequent lock-ups and blue screens during boot up on my Mac Pro. The lock- ups occur sometimes during normal use and I cannot click anything or force quit. The cursor shows something is loading, but never stops. I have to use power button.
I had the Mac Defender malware and I have used apple jack but still having issues.

MBP locks, thus force shutdown w/ Power button, then catastrophic app probs

I have had two unexpected system lock ups which may be releated to low battery power, but have then caused catastrophic application problems. I do not want answers to the individual application problems here, I will refer to other Apple Support pages and forums for those. I'm interested in other users experience of the same catastrophic failures, if at all.
Event 1. (OSX 10.4.8)
I was using the MPB on battery and I knew the power was running low, afraid I can't remember how low but I'm sure it was below 10%. Without warning iPhoto crashed with an exception popup which said that it was related to low power - I didn't note the exact wording. The machine remained on, but I couldn't do anything with it, so I had to shut it down by holding down the power button.
When I next used it, it seemed much of the applications I had had running at the time had all got corrupted;
- iPhoto: my library was gone next time I opened it. All the photo files are still there but some complain they are corrupted when trying to view them. I'd been using iPhoto at the time and rotating a lot of photos. Photos loaded and rotated in that session seemed to have survivied, ones unrotated complain of corruption when I try to view them. Other threads have suggested I need to do a complete rebuild.
- Dashboard: my whole set up has gone and it has reverted to a vanilla original set up.
- Trackpad: my settings had all disappeared and I had to set it up from scratch again.
- Skype: It no longer remembered my login details. This I found interesting as it is not an Apple app.
Event 2. (After 10.4.9 upgrade)
The second time I had left the MBP plugged in and in sleep mode, so it should have been well charged. A friend unplugged it to use the socket. When I went to use it it was still asleep. It was asleep and unplugged no more than 24 hours but my experience is it can live like this for days, so it should not have drained all power.
I could wake it but I have a password set and the system would not register the key presses I made for the pwd in the pwd box. ie. no *'s appeared each time I typed. The MBP was working because as I tried to wake it by doing various key presses I obviously did something which made it play a track from my iTunes library which had been running when I last put it to sleep.
Eventually again I had to shut it down using the power button. This time when I started it up I had the following;
- iTunes: It said my library was corrupted and it had to rename it and set it aside and create a new one, all my Music is there but it looks like I will have to rebuild.
- Mail: When I started Mail this time it requested I set up a mail account as if it was the first time I had used it. It looks like most of my mail files still exist in my Library/Mail folder but I somehow need to recover the mail account.
- Messenger: my icon I used doesn't work and it has defaulted to the icon associated with my MBP account I log in with. I understand this could be because the image I used for my icon came from my iPhoto library and it doesn't take a copy.
I am half way through recalibrating my battery as suggested elsewhere in these forums. After this I will reset the PMU/SMC. However after days of trawling the forums I have yet to find anyone describes problems like these, so I have reluctantly decided to start a new thread to see if anyone has had similar experiences.
My MBP is 5 months old, bought at the London Apple Store in Nov 2006.
MacBook Pro 17" 2.33 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Mac OS X (10.4.9) Memory 2 GB 667 Mhz DDR2 SDRAM
Intel MacBook Pro 17" Mac OS X (10.4.9)

I came to a similar conclusion after trying Disk Utility. It said the disk needs to be reformatted. Unfortunately, I've not been doing TimeMachine backups for 2-3 months due to problems I had with it. one of those "I'll take care of that sometime soon" things where soon doesn't get here.
Right now I'm getting ready to hook up the backup drive and see what I can rescue.
Chuck

Power button and other functions on my Nokia N86 s...

After I downloaded a few applications for my Nokia N86, the slider preferences (i.e. the sound clips that play when opening/closing the slider; the answer/hang up call function; and the key lock) stopped working. Some apps refuse to open (no response). Also, when I push the power button on top of the phone, it does absolutely nothing, thus I cannot turn my phone off.
I am affraid to take the battery out and let the phone power down then up because the power button might not be able to turn it on.
This occurred after I downloaded a few apps off of cnet.com. Here is a list of my downloaded apps with the most recently downloaded ones listed first:
F-Secure (anti virus added and scanned after problem started - no viruses present)
Handywi (wifi locator)
fring (social networking bundle)
DivX player
Google app (m.google.com/app)
Google maps
Opera Mini (web browser that now refuses to open)
HNN Soft Talking Dictionary (Chinese/English that now refuses to open)
What should I do???
(Yes, I have the most current software update)
(Not sure if it matters, but I live and bought the phone in Taipei, Taiwan)
Message Edited by sk8erfrombham on 07-Jul-2009 02:22 PM
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Sorry, if you are not willing to try it then I cannot help you.
Take it to a nokia care point for assitance.
Care points/service centres and repair info:
UK • Europe • Asia-Pacific • USA •
Canada • Middle East and Africa
Elsewhere: Click here, select your country, go to the support section, then select repair.

IMac will only restart or shutdown from power button.

My iMac will only restart or shutdown from the power button, it also will not logoff users. It starts ok, but only after a hard reboot?? I have repaired permisions and no change. I have a clone I can restore from but any ideas whats up here?
The only things that I know I have altered are deleting files saved during migration from Panther (months ago)and running Unbuntu Live CD.
iMac G4 15 Mac OS X (10.4.7) 728ram

Are you booting into Ubuntu Linux? Most of us here wouldn't now anything to do with it. If the problem is occurring when booted into Mac OS X, it may be a sign of data corruption in the power management and user settings. Some corruption is easy to repair such as fixing the directory (which I'd only do after a clone). Here's how according to my FAQ:
http://www.macmaps.com/directoryfaq.html
And I assume the issue is with your iMac G4.

Faulty/stuck power button again! Who was the genius that located the ear-jack hole with the "Liquid Contact Indicator" at the top of the iPhone, so perspiration can accumulate and void the warranty

My Power button is stuck again...... like many, many other owners....like two of my previous iPhones. According to the Genius at the Genius Bar in Reno, Nv., my warranty is void because the LCI which is located in the ear-jack hole on the top, has come in contact with moisture/humidity/sweat. My iPhone has never been dropped or wet. My iPhone4s is in pristine conditon and is in great working order except for the "stuck" power button, but because of a poor quality and location of the ear-jack hole, my warranty has been voided. Everything I have is Apple. The Rep/Genius in Reno while fullly aware on the chronic power button problems, tried to put the stuck button on an exposure to moisture. He said, "It doesn't matter if mositure didn't cause the button to stick or not. Your warranty voided because of the Liquid Contact Indicated turned color. Of course, the "power/sync" hole LCI is perfect. Thank you Apple! I think I'll refuse my iPhone5 delivery on Friday and go buy a "Droid" phone.
Hey, who out there wants to buy my new iPhone5 when it gets to me on Friday???

Thanks for your reply. I too would not rule out moisture damaging the power button, but ...
I guess was being too subtle. My points are:
1. "Stuck" power buttons is a known issue/problem and Apple has been dealing with it since the first iPhone. This is quality problem. The evidence is with other users all around us and all over the web.
2. The "sweat" issue is a design problem and should've been addressed long before the release of the iPhone5 in a few days. Yes, they moved iPhone5's headphone-jack to the bottom/underneath of the iPhone. To say that the "sweat" issue is the users' fault is like saying, Apple iPhones should only be sold to swine or other mammals without sweat glands. We're talking about as little as one drop from someone's temple running down the headphone-jack opening while one is engadged with a phone call. That's all it takes to change the color of the LCI.
3. Also I wanted to make my complaint public on this forum and not Facebook, hoping to both, not only catch the eye of an Apple lurker, but let others know of the danger of speaking on their iPhones while out in the sun, high humidity or driving a car with the top down....... my point being, even the free AT&T Go Phones have protection against the slightest elements.
4. I paid close to $700 for this iPhone4s 64G less than a year ago. I don't like being dismissed with a cut and dry, cookie-cutter answer from a 20yr old without reasonable explanation and then be shoo'd out the door. "Next?"
5. I love Apple products and I'm glad the new release has addressed the jack/perspiration problem although I know there were other factors involved in the decisions to not move/move it.

Emac power button

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