EOS 70D - nowhere to attach sync cable

Hi everyone, just hoping to get some direction re triggering studio lighting with my Canon 70D that's just arrived.
A long time photographer I am however just venturing into the world of studio lighting and have this month just set up a small home studio. With no formal training I'm learning as I go (thank goodness for youtube!) and tomorrow will be my third studio shoot so definitely lots to learn.
For my first couple of shoots I used my Canon 40D with a sync cable but my 40D died last week and I have just received the 70D which I have just found out does not have a plug for a sync cable.
I believe that I should be able to use my speed light to trigger my strobes but am a complete novice when it comes to such things and must say that I don't find the settings on the speedlights to be very intuitive.
I've read that another option is a hotshoe adapter that will allow me to plug my cable in to it. Perhaps there are even more options? If I can avoid having a speedlight attached I guess that would make my life easier, easier to move around, less weight etc.
My ultimate goal is to have only the strobes fire and not the speed light itself.
My lighting equipment is as follows:
1 Digiliter YJB-G300 (which can be used as a slave)
1 Bowens Prolite 41A (which I've only used as the master connected to my camera with a sync cable)
1 430EX Canon Speed light
1 550EX Canon Speed light
All suggestions gratefully accepted.

The good news is that you have lots of options, but that's probably the bad news too
The easiest answer is that yes, you can get an adapter that slides into the hotshoe and has a PC port if you want to go old school and use cables. It's simple enough and cheap enough, but there are much better options.
One option is to use a flash as a master flash to signal the others. The 550 can be used as a master, but your 70D's built in flash should be able to do the same. But you'll only be able to use the Canon speedlights using this function (unless your monos have an optical sensor, but you can buy these). You can also set it so that the flash fires to trigger the other flashes, but doesn't affect the exposure.
The option above is dependent on line of sight, which can become a nuissance if using modifiers. Using radio frequency triggers gets past this limitation, and is the standard method these days. If you're ok using manual only (the monos are only manual anyways) you can get really cheap triggers. Pocket Wizards are the gold standard, but expensive. Yongnuo is the 'gold standard' of generic options. I highly recommend the RF-603 II. They're about $30 for a pair, you'll need 5 total (one goes in the hot shoe as a trigger, the other 4 will trigger your 4 flashes).
There's a lot of good information out there, as you've found on YouTube. I highly, highly recommend going through the Strobist blog. It's geared towards using speedlights, but there's some discussion of studio lights, and much of the information is universal anyway:
http://strobist.blogspot.com/2006/03/lighting-101.html

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I am unable to download my picture from my camera canon eos 70d to my computer.

I AM UNABLE TO DOWNLOAD MY PICTURE FROM CAMERA CANON EOS 70D TO MY COMPUTER. I HAVE INSTALL THE SOFTWARE FROM CANON EOS SOLUTION DISK 28.2.

"...The question then came up whether repeated removal/insertion of the card (in the computer and camera) might eventually wear out the contacts on the card, or worse the camera..."
Yes, there will be wear and tear over time. It also is possible to force a card into the slot crooked and damage the socket.
Are these much of an issue?
In my opinion, no. I change memory cards fairly frequently (mostly Compact Flash, which are probably the most easily damaged), sometimes use 12 or 15 memory cards in a day's shoot and have been doing that shooting digitally for ten years... And have never had even one card wear out or managed to damage a card or socket myself.
Note: I have pulled a card out too quickly, while it was still writing, and lost about 1/3 of the images on the card... Once! I also have had one "bad card" right from new, from a major manufacturer. Three other identical cards are working fine.
I do have one older DSLR with a "bent pin" in the Compact Flash socket.... But I bought it that way for $15 in hopes of fixing it. Unfortunately I think the particular pin that got bent managed to short out some of the other electronics in the camera, so it's probably not practical to fix (makes a nice paperweight). I've seen other cameras, particularly those using Compact Flash memory, with bent pins. Some were pretty easily fixed. Others needed a new socket or more.
Just looking at the posts on various discussion forums, I suspect it's a much more frequent issue for the USB cable or the USB socket in the camera to wear or get damaged. Plus camera batteries are only good for a certain number of charge/discharge cycles (I've heard 400X is typical, but don't really know).
So personally I'd be more concerned about directly linking the camera with the USB cable and leaving the camera powered on while downloading.... Feel better just pulling the memory card and using a card reader.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif., USA
"Walk softly and carry a big lens."
GEAR: 5DII, 7D(x2), 50D(x3), some other cameras, various lenses & accessories
FLICKR & PRINTROOM

EOS 70D display screen not working because of humidity - Canon cutomer service totally unhelpful

Hi!
I have purchased an EOS 70D last October. Everything was working perfectly until I took it to the Caribbean, where on the second day the display screen stopped working. I could still take photos, but nothing was shown on the screen. I currently live in Canada. I took the camera to the store, where they told me that I have to send the camera (that still has warranty on it) at my own cost to the official repair centre. After a week, i got a letter from them, saying the following:
"We have received your equipment for evaluation and repair. Upon further examination it was determined that we are unable to repair your equipment therefore
Canon has suggested a replacement product to you in exchange for your original unit at the cost detailed below. Please respond to this estimate promptly to
avoid having your equipment returned.
We will replace your equipment with a EOS 70D. The new serial number is not yet available.
Upon inspection, technician found unit is beyond repair due to moisture damage. Estimate has been adjusted to reflect replacement suggestion."
I am furious. They are offering me to buy a new camera for the same price. I called customer service and asked them to explain the letter. They said they will send me photos of the inside of the camera, where they have found mositure. I asked them to re-check it, as I didn't misuse it, I didn't drop it in the water, or anything of that kind. They said the camera must have been used in a very humid/or very cold place. Can they be serious? Is that really my fault? I mean, I bought the camera to be able to take pictures anywhere I go. I didn't do anything extra to it or with it. I will take this as far as I can, I just don't find this a normal response. Any suggestions??? Anyone had the same problem before?

Every post ought to have a learning opportunity so I am attaching a list compiled by a Canon technical advisor addressing the problem of handling photographic equipment in hot weather.
Hot Weather Photo Equipment Handling Tips
Compiled by Chuck Westfall, Technical Advisor/Canon U.S.A., Inc.
1.) Avoid Condensation:
This is a biggie. If temperature and humidity differentials are high enough, condensation may occur when moving photo equipment from a relatively cool environment such as an air-conditioned vehicle, to a warmer one. When condensation forms inside a lens, for instance, internal elements can fog up, preventing clear images. When condensation gets bad enough inside a camera body, it can cause short circuits resulting in unexpected shutdowns. Worse yet, when equipment temperatures finally equalize to the warmer environment, water droplets on glass surfaces inside a lens may dry out and leave spots, mildew or fungus that can’t be cleaned by the photographer.
Similarly, when condensation dries up inside a camera, fungus, mildew, rust or corrosion may be left behind on printed circuit boards, viewfinder eyepieces, shutter curtains, or other internal components. If any of this happens, the equipment may be permanently damaged.
Incidentally, no matter how good it is, ‘weather sealing’ cannot prevent condensation, nor was it ever intended to do so. Damage caused by condensation is considered a user error, and it will void warranty coverage. One of the best methods to avoid condensation is to allow photo equipment to warm up gradually before exposing it to a hot environment. If this is not practical, consider placing the equipment in an airtight, resealable plastic bag with silica gel packets inside before exposing it to heat. (Don’t forget to squeeze as much air as possible out of the bag before you seal it, otherwise this technique may not work.) Using this method, the condensation will form on the bag instead of the equipment. Once the condensation on the bag has dried out, it should be safe to remove the equipment and start using it.
On a related matter, in hot and humid conditions, perspiration may cause condensation to form on your camera’s viewfinder eyepiece. Some camera manufacturers including Canon offer anti-fog eyepieces to prevent condensation from forming.
2.) What To Do When Condensation Has Occurred:
Use a soft, dry clean cloth to remove moisture from exterior surfaces. If possible, place the equipment in a dry, well-ventilated area to prevent further condensation from occurring.
3.) Cover Equipment When Not In Use:
If you must leave your camera equipment exposed to high heat and/or humidity conditions for long periods of time, consider covering it with a dry white towel when it’s not in use. Even when condensation is not an issue, heat absorption is another big concern for professional cameras and lenses, and especially digital SLRs. Cameras are designed to operate within a specific range of temperature and humidity conditions. For instance, the EOS-1D Mark IV professional camera has a high-end temperature rating of 45C/113F and a humidity rating of 85% or less. Since most camera bodies are black, internal temperatures can exceed this limit even when the ambient temperature is below it.
4.) Avoid or Limit the Use of Camera Settings that Generate Heat:
Heat build-up caused by ambient temperatures is one problem, but the other side of the coin is heat build-up caused by the camera itself. This has become more of an issue recently with professional digital SLRs due to the incorporation of new features such as Live View and HD video recording. These features generate heat from several camera components including battery packs, image sensors and LCD screens. If you plan on using Live View or recording video outdoors in high-temperature environments with your digital SLR, there are a couple of things you can do to minimize heat build-up inside the camera:
Limit the use of Live View for still shots. This will minimize heat build-up from the image sensor and LCD screen.
Use an external monitor when recording video. This will shut off the camera’s LCD screen.
Use an AC Adapter Kit. This will reduce heat build-up by eliminating battery packs.
Set the camera’s Auto Power Off setting to a reasonably short interval. Let the camera help to minimize heat build-up by allowing it to shut down automatically after a minute or two of inactivity. This will also conserve battery power.
5.) Storing Equipment in Hot Weather:
In high temperature environments with ambient humidity over 80%, use silica gel packets in your gadget bag or equipment case to absorb excessive moisture and protect your camera gear. Silica gel packets can be purchased in quantity from professional camera dealers and chemical supply houses, and are available in clear or moisture-indicating varieties. For long-term storage, consider storing camera equipment in Tupperware or similar sealable plastic containers with silica gel packets to absorb moisture and prevent fungus and mildew. In severely humid environments, even silica gel packets may be insufficient; so-called “camera dry cabinets” from manufacturers such as Toyo Living are available for such conditions. No matter what kind of storage container you use, ideally the humidity level should be less than 60% for maximum protection. Relatively inexpensive hygrometers of the type used for cigar thermidors are available to monitor humidity levels inside the containers. Remember to test hygrometers at least once a year, and recalibrate them if necessary.
6.) Store Battery Packs Separately and Keep Equipment Clean:
To prevent corrosion of your camera’s electrical contacts, remove battery packs prior to long-term storage. Also, as a matter of good housekeeping, clean cameras and lenses regularly and thoroughly. This is especially important in hot and humid weather, or after your camera equipment has been exposed to rain or condensation, to prevent mildew and fungus from forming.
© August, 2010 by Chuck Westfall
http://blog.photoshelter.com/2010/08/keeping-your-camera-gear-safe-in-the-heat/

Photobooth live preview gives No-Signal (Canon EOS 70D)

I have a Canon 70D which is being used as a Photobooth. There is no software used. The Camera is connected to a LCD via HDMI for live view and the photos are clicked using a remote.
The connection is good over HDMI and the photos are being clicked too. The problem is loss of HDMI signal. After clicking 5-6 photos, the LCD signal goes off and comes back only if the photo is clicked again or if we press the live preview switch on the camera. Sometimes, the signal looses after single shot also.
I have checked the quality of the HDMI cable and it is very good. The camera and LCD are connected by Adapters and no battery is being used, so there is no chance of power being turned off.
Please let me know what is the solution for this.
Thanks,
Girish

Thanks for your EOS-70D camera info and videos. When is the camera available in North America?

Brand new ipod nano will work when attached by cable either to a power adaptor or usb port but stops immediately when disconnected, despite being put on charge with different adaptors. Battery indicator remains constantly on lightning flas symbol and whit

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You can request replacement online here: https://selfsolve.apple.com/GetWarranty.do
You can also get the iPhone stereo headset replaced by making a reservation with a Genius, at a local Apple retail store, or by calling AppleCare.
http://www.apple.com/retail/geniusbar/
U.S. iPhone technical support: 1-800-MY-IPHONE (1-800-694-7466)
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When I first attached a cable from iphone6 to hdmi on tv, I was able to read kindle on tv. After watching movies and playing Pandora from iphone to tv through the cable, I can no longer read kindle through it. What settings do I need to change?

When I first attached a cable from iphone6 to hdmi on tv, I was able to read kindle on tv. After watching movies and playing Pandora from iphone to tv through the cable, I can no longer read kindle through it. What settings do I need to change?

Hi,
Already mentioned on the following post:
http://h30434.www3.hp.com/t5/Other-Notebook-PC-Questions/VGA-on-laptop-HDMI-on-TV-needs-connected/m-...
You need a CONVERTER, not ADAPTER The setup:
The following list may help:
http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/sis.html?_kw=HDMI+To+VGA+COMPONENT+Adaptor+A+V+Digital+Converter
Laptop (VGA) ---- Converter from VGA to HDMI ------ TV
You also need sound, you can buy a converter with sound OR connect sound directly from laptop to TV.
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**Click the KUDOS thumb up on the left to say 'Thanks'**
Make it easier for other people to find solutions by marking a Reply 'Accept as Solution' if it solves your problem.

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Check these tips:
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Update 10.2.2. I updated to 10.2.2 and my older ipod/iphone sync cables no longer work. Im talking about the cables with the longer connector and the connector locks not the new style that is a short plug with no lock. Anyone else having this issue?
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On your computer go to the control panel (hover in the lower right corner) then programs, add/remove programs
Uninstall iTunes, Apple Mobile Device Service, Apple Application Support then go to apple.com and redownload and reinstall iTunes and try again.
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Photoshop, Bridge, CS4 Lightroom 4 don't recognize CR2 raw picture from new camera Canon eos 70d -

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Have you tried here:
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I have Photoshop Elements 9. I downloaded the plug in 6.0 and it works on the RAW files from Canon EOS 60D, but not with Canon EOS 70D. I cannot download higher versions of plug in, because I have Windows Vista and it is not supported.

You could try using the DNG converter 8.7 on Windows vista:
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Lightroom 5.2 vs. Canon EOS 70D RAW

Hello,
I am testing the trial version of Lightroom 5.2. My new camera is a Canon EOS 70D. When importing RAW files into Lightroom the colors of some photos are wrong. RAWs from my older 450D are fine.
For example on one photo the sky isn't blue but turquoise. When using the DNG Converter I get the same color. The sky was blue though. When opening the file in Digital Photo Professional by Canon, the sky is blue as it should be.
It happens on some other photos as well. Mostly if they have a high blue content. If in Lightroom I increase the blue content and decrease the shades it almost looks as it should.
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I managed to calibrate my monitors with a friend's hardware calibrator. The display of the photo in LR didn't change much. Still way too greenish sky.
Now I noticed that depending on the export option in LR (sRGB, aRGB, ProPhoto) I get pretty different colors in the exported JPEG files if I view them in IrfanView. None of them looks like the original that I see in LR. Funnily I noticed when writing this post that all exported images in the browser look the same - as each other and as in LR. looking at the LR-exports in LR they look the same - greenish sky. Looking at the LR-exports in DPP they look the same - blue sky. I managed to set IrfanView to enable color management with current monitor profile. Now I get the same view in LR, Irfanview and Firefox. I guess that's a plus. Furthermore I found an option in DPP to use the monitor profile - the sky looks a litlle green but there are differences to LR still.
LR sRGB
LR aRGB
LR ProPhoto
DPP aRGB with color management
Now that I managed to get the photos to look (almost) the same in all the applications that I use (FF, LR, IV being the most important) and having the monitors calibrated I can go back to my original question.
How comes that the sky looks so green although it wasn't when I shot the photo? Are there any more settings that I can make to get the colors on import better? Can I simply and with good conscience move my sliders now so that the image looks the way I like it and others will see it the same way (mainly on a website)?
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LCD live viewing & copy work with EOS 70D (W)

Hi,
Can anyone please provide insight, guidance, solutions to accomplish this efficiently?
Goal/operation:
I want to use the camera for copy work: portfolio, flat art, photos, objects etc. I have old family photo albums I want to copy/photograph each image separately without removing/disturbing/damaging the images in the books.
The camera is mounted on a vertical copy stand shooting down (subject is mainly flat art).
I want to be able to view through the LCD in live view (camera is 90º facing down at copy board), have manual control, set up & align the subject and shoot the photos using the flash lighting system in quick efficient production process.
Equipment used:
Camera EOS 70D (W)
Minolta Copy stand
Novatron 240 portable light system, 2 lights with polarized sheet film
synch connections:
wireless - Pocket Wizard Plus 2 Transceiver.
wired - Nikon AS-15 Hot shot cord adapter
PROBLEM
I am having issues being able to view through the LCD, set up & align the subject and shoot the photos - without jumping through hoops.
It seems I have to switch to Av from M after shutter release to view subject in LCD, then switch back to M for the next shot, camera fails to shoot and shows error message: “Press start/stop button to activate movie shooting”. This doesn’t make sense as I’m not movie shooting.
If I change the mode to “Flash off” and back to “M” then it appears to work, however once I switch to Av mode to view the subject again, it starts the process all over.
There must be a better/easier way.
Could this be a potential bug in the camera? or am I missing something? I don’t see solutions in manual.
Will mode setting “C” Custom allow “Live viewing” w/ custom “Manual control” to bypass the need to use “M” manual setting that wont allow LCD viewing?
Camera settings:
Shooting with LCD (live view shooting)
mode setting:
Av - for live viewing and setup of subject
Then switch to M - Manual for manual control and shutter release
Also - I would like to connect to Apple Mac Laptop computer, live view on screen, and if possible have the option to record the photos direct to computer hard disk. Can this be done with this camera? IF so, what is needed?
Best regards,
J

-Canon 70D have built-in Wifi, so you can connect your camera with your computer wirelessly for tethered shooting. I have PC so the instruction may be different, but you need to install Canon EOS Utility.
-You can do everything in M mode even Live View. I think you are doing something wrong here, you may need to re-read your manual regarding this problem.
-C mode is customized M mode, so you can do everything in C mode also. With C mode, you can save all the setting so you can come back later. It's a great use in your case where you can make your C mode has all the settings for your work, then when you take the camera out to shoot something else, use other mode. Later, when you come back, just switch back to C so you don't have to change anything.
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EOS 70D - nowhere to attach sync cable

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