Ever claiming for the poor quality of mackeeper software. It is a scam.

Ever claiming for the worst quality of mackeeper software. It is a scam.

Follow these instructions to uninstall MacKeeper. They have been tested with the most recent version of MacKeeper (v 2.8). Earlier versions than the one released in 2012 require more extensive work to uninstall all its components.
If you used MacKeeper to encrypt any files or folders, use MacKeeper to un-encrypt them first.
Quit the MacKeeper app if it is running.
Open your Applications folder: Using the Finder's Go menu, select Applications.
Drag the MacKeeper icon from your Applications folder (not the Dock) to the Trash.
You will be asked to authenticate (twice):
You do not need to provide a reason for uninstalling it:
Just click the Uninstall MacKeeper button. You will be asked to authenticate again.
After it uninstalls you may empty the Trash and restart your Mac. All that will remain is an inert log file that does nothing but occupy space on your hard disk.

Similar Messages

I recently purchased a MacBook Pro with Retina. Which adapter do I purchase to connect it to a Samsung TV for the best quality?

I recently purchased a MacBook Pro with Retina. Which adapter do I purchase to connect it to a Samsung TV for the best quality? Thanks.

Doesn't matter. All HDMI cables should work, some are considered better than others, I had a $5 ebay cable work just as good as a $20 monster HDMI cable.

I've imported a giant cd collection for my work in wav format for the best quality audio using iTunes version 11.1.1. I need to transfer this library to our Music workstation using iTunes 11.0.1. That workstation version of iTunes can't be upgraded for

I've imported a giant cd collection for my boss in wav format for the best quality audio using iTunes version 11.1.1. I need to transfer this library to our Music workstation using iTunes 11.0.1. That workstation version of iTunes can't be upgraded for compatability reasons with other software using iTunes. When I try to transfer the library I lose all of the CD metadata and end up with only track names. Is there a way to transfer everything along with the metadata?

Not easily. WAV format does not store tag information in the file. Realize both AIFF (equivalent to WAV) and Apple Lossless (full quality but smaller files) do, so WAV was unfortunately the worst format to chose.
If you have to go with what you have you will have to explore exporting the library as .xml, moving it and the files to the other computer, then rebuilding a lower version library with the two sets. I am not sure if you can do it with the library.xml file that already exists or if it too differs according to version. You may end up having to export the files as a playlist. You will, of course, lose artwork too, though you can try fetching it from the iTunes Store later.
Some of what you need to do is outlined in these articles though you have the added limitation that you are not building a library of the same version. (It really is a piity you choose WAV, otherwise you could have simply added the ripped files and most of the data would have traveled with them.)
https://discussions.apple.com/message/20401436 - turingtest2 11/2012 post on rebuilding empty/corrupt library after upgrade/crash from previous iTunes library file.
iTunes: How to re-create your iTunes library and playlists - http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1451

2 days ago i rented The Avengers, beside it took almost 7h to download, at the end it did not get fully downloaded... 20 last minutes were not there. I know is just 5 dollars, but, how can i make a claim for the amount paid?

2 days ago i rented The Avengers, beside it took almost 7h to download, at the end it did not get fully downloaded... 20 last minutes were not there. I know is just 5 dollars, but, how can i make a claim for the amount paid?, what if I buy a movie later? i will get the same problem!!! still I do not know how the avengers ends!! please do not tell me haha, focus on the problem here!

Welcome to the Apple Community.
Apple's policy on sales of digital content is that all sales are final. If however you wish to appeal to Apple, select the content which is causing a problem and use the 'Report a problem' button in Your Purchase History on your computer.
Currently, if your purchase happens to be your most recent purchase you will not be redirected to the report form, in this case use the report a problem option from the invoice that was emailed to you.
I believe your issues are probably a network issue, which unless you resolve are likely to be repeated again.

I have just finished editing a feature length documentary for theatrical release. How should I output it for the highest quality finished product?

I have just finished editing a feature length documentary for theatrical release. How should I output it for the highest quality finished product?

You may find this article. interesting.
Good luck,
Russ

Is it possible to improve the poor quality of DVD's?

I started my presentation in Keynote and exported the file as a quicktime movie (high quality). I then moved the quicktime movie into iDVD and when I previewed the project, the quality looked crisp...so far so good. I then proceeded to burn directly to DVD and the quality was, for lack of a better word, crap. I tried creating a disc image and using Toast but unfortunately it's not rearly as sharp as it was within iDVD.
This has been bugging me for about weeks now. I've been reading the discussion boards for a while and haven't found a solution to my problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,
I'm also a very frustrated user experiencing the same problem with iDVD 6. This was not seen when I was using iDVD 5.
I've made a .dv file with imovie 6.0.1, and upon "Sharing" to idvd, I didn't see any drop in quality during preview. Its only when I've the DVD disc image file where iDVD compresses the .dv format to mpeg2 that a significant loss in video quality can be seen.
I've also tried out different methods of encoding the .dv file using other software:
1. Toast 7.0.1 : Same poor quality mpeg2
2. ffmpegX : I tried tweaking different settings, (video bitrate, etc), but only very insignificant improvements were seen. ( Anyone out there with success in finding the right combinations of options, please post reply!)
3. JES Deinterlacer : I don't think the problem lies with interlacing, as I don't see much improvements here either.
Anyway, has anyone checked out this website:
http://www.kenstone.net/fcphomepage/idvd_6stone.html
I've actually contacted the website owner Ken Stone via email, asking him if he has seen this problem. He replied to me that he did not experience quality loss since he did not work with imovie.
I'm pretty baffled here, as I thought the problem clearly lies with the process of dv to mpeg2 encoding, and not the software that was used to create the movie or .dv file?
Anybody out there has a workaround or a definate solution?

Need serious help about understanding settings on photoshop for the best quality- please reply is you know a lot about this.

Ideally I'd like to speak to someone from the UK as I feel I can't write out everything I want to say because it's too confusing and it isn't just one question.
I need help with setting photoshop so the images are the best quality on screen and for websites and printing and how I can change that etc I've heard different things and I just need some clarification and advice.
Obviously I'm sure some of you wont want to give personal details out that's fine but I'm generally just in need of some advice, let me know if you can help:)

I don't change any settings. For 1X web images I always use Save for Web. PS remembers which web settings you used the last time. This doesn't effect other files or formats.
Image optimization — Web Fundamentals
Improving Images for Hi-Res Retina Displays
A guide for creating a better retina web - Ivo Mynttinen / User Interface Designer
Serving Hi-Res images only to High Density Displays with PHP
Retina Images
Seriously, you can drive yourself crazy with all this Retina display stuff. I don't see much upside to it except for very special situations.
Nancy O.

For the picture quality which one i should choose, canon 700d or 60d??

Hey guys, im planning to buy a camera...
because i'm not have so much money so i'm interested at 2 models.... EOS 60D and EOS 700D
60D are old one than 700D... If i want a better picture which camera I should choose??
I usually shooting at JPEG mode....
And if I saw the spec the processor are quietly different (DIGIC 5 on 600D and DIGIC 4 on 60D), is the processor affect very much on the picture quality.....
and my notes, i dont like to buy twice so I would buy for the best....... thanks guys....
---HarrY---

The 700D has more "gee wiz" features (touch-screen, etc.) But the 700D is more of an "entry" range body and the 60D is a "mid-range" body (Canon has entry level bodies, mid-level bodies, and pro-level bodies.)
On a "pro" and "mid-range" body, the body has two dials... one just behind the shutter button and the other on the back of the body. These are strategically located so that when shooting in manual mode, you can put your index finger on the front wheel (usually to adjust shutter speed) and you can but your thumb on the rear-dial (usually to adjust aperture/f-stop). This allows for fairly rapid use in manual mode without needing to take your eye away from the viewfinder.
The 60D has that layout (more like a pro body). The 700D does not.
The imaging senssors on those two bodies are actually the same generation (both use Canon's 18MP sensor). You wont actually see any significant difference in image quality between the two bodies.
The 60D is "weather sealed" (I put that in quotes because you should NOT confuse this for meaning it is water-proof. It is not waterproof ... do not submerge it. That would be very bad.) Weather sealed means that openings in the body for buttons and dials and body seams all have gaskets or o-rings which are generally regarded as being good enough to seal out water or dust as long as it's not under any pressure. If you get caught in the rain... not a big deal. Just towel it off (do not open the body until you towel it off... it's obviously not sealed when doors are open or your lens is removed.) Many of Canon's "L" series lenses (not all of them) are also weather sealed. So keep in mind that while the body may be sealed and able to deal with some rain... the lens may not necessarily be able to deal with some rain.
DIGIC V does have better JPEG processing than DIGIC IV... although you may not necessarily be able to notice the difference.
I've seen (and so have you) stunningly gorgeous images coming from very old and very basic DSLR bodies. The largest difference in image quality will be you... your skill. Buying a Canon 1D-X flagship body will not ensure your images look fantastic no more than buying a Steinway concert grand piano will help you play beautiful music... if you never learned to play a piano. You ultimately have to learn photography, exposure, and how to take advantage of your camera.
If you plan to learn to shoot in manual mode, you will likely prefer the control and ergonomic layout that the 60D offers. If you prefer to shoot in automatic, semi-automatic, or scene modes, then you will likely prefer the 700D.
Tim Campbell
5D II, 5D III, 60Da

Exporting for the best quality

I am making a highlight tape of my children with some music. What is the best way to export the sequence for DVD with the best quality? DO I export it using the "Quicktime" option and make it a "Self contained movie" or do I uncheck this box? (There is no chapter markers in my film).
Thanks

You should export as QuickTime Movie. Don't use QuickTime Conversion.
Also, if FCE and iDVD are on the same computer, you don't have to make a Self-Contained movie. Uncheck the box and your export will go much faster, with no loss of quality.
In iDVD Preferences, check the box for "Best Quality"

FCProp 6: Which setting for the best quality encoding (capture)?

Hi everybody,
i am producing contents from HDV cam (Sony Z1) and i just saw one of my colleagues (journalist too) working on Adobe Premiere having a really better final report than my one (using the same tape).
i just wonder if someone could explain what would be the best workflow to get the best quality on a standard DVD (not the next generation)?
our reports are based on Fashion, so we are using some filters for some of the images. i heared about the RS422 or something like that wich is the new aple encoder ? am i right ? is this what should be used for the capture and rendering files ?
what about the export encoding setting? movies are all under 10min duration
Thank you very much for your hightlights
Sam

I use FCPX/iDVD regularly to make DVDs. Workflow is to edit 1080i project in FCPX, add chapter markers, and export video using Share -> Master File (default) with no changes.
The resulting .mov file is then imported to iDVD with various themes, etc. and "Save as Disk Image" is used to create a burnable file for creating DVDs with Disk Utility.
Be aware that the titling of chapter markers is flaky and you may have to retitle them in iDVD as the name from FCPX is not always saved. No big deal.
I also use MPEG Streamc;ip to create a 128//720 mp4 file which goes readily into iTunes and then i synced to my iPad for portable show and tell. Have to confess that I have Compressor too, but have never used it and from following the forums get the impression that it's not easy to use. MS works fine for my limited purposes

Analog capture into DV format. Why such small files? Why the poor quality?

I am capturing 8mm video cassettes with an "ADVC 3000" converter, using an S-Video into the converter and then via FireWire into my PowerMac G5.
All is almost going well, but the files seem to take up so little space on my Hard Drive. That's a good thing, but I'm wondering if it's recording into Digital Video or not since the files seem so small. Smaller than normal for DV at least, or maybe I'm just paranoid.
In the scratch files, when I press Command-I for information, the Codecs on the QuickTime files are DV/DVCPRO-NTSC, Interger (Big Endian), Timecode.
So I'm guessing they are DV files even though they look like crap.
My question is this though. When I put these old analog tapes on iDVD, burn it, and put it in my DVD player, the quality of my video looks pretty crappy on my hi-def television. But when I watch them on my computer in a tiny window (the tinier the better), the video looks great. A large window, or my Television, gives a bad picture. My theory is that it's my hi-def television and computer monitor, and that on an old Analog TV set, the videos would look much sharper.
Should I play 8 mm analog video, converted to DV in Final Cut Pro, on an older Analog T.V. set for best viewing results?
Anyone have any comments to share on the science of this?

Yoshiman,
Forgive me if you did know this, the TBC is a Time Base Corrector. (I am pretty sure corrector is right). Anyway, the 8mm has time code striped on it with the image information. If the playback device is not able to read the time code, the picture quality suffers. (remember tracking adjustments?).
The TBC will intercept the time code coming from the tape and provide accurate, consistent time code to the system. I use one from DataVideo, and have been happy with it whenever I have to work with old tapes. If you have a lot of tapes to capture, you might look into one.
My two disclaimers: this is a very general explanation, I simply don't know the physics of what's going on, and secondly I am not a power user of FCS, but have gotten so much from this forum I am trying to give a little back. Take what I bring to the table with that in mind - I'm proficient, but not an expert.

What do I need for the best quality external display?

Greetings all,
I purchased the Intel i5 15inch Macbook Pro around July this year and I am wanting to use my external ldc monitor, which happens to be a Samsung Syncmaster 226cw, to act as my main display for the system. I tried asking an individual at Best Buy what would be the best quality way to ensure that my Macbook Pro will effectively use my monitor's native max resolution of 1680x1050, and he seemed rather clueless. So here I am. I know there are a lot of other users who have a lot of experience with this sort of thing and I'm placing myself in your hands for help and guidance.
If it helps, here is the factory description of my monitor I am wanting to use:
http://www.samsung.com/sg/consumer/pc-peripherals-printer/monitor/lcd-monitor/LS 22MEXSFV/XSS/index.idx?pagetype=prd_detail&tab=specification
If anyone can point me into the right direction I'd be very appreciative!

The specs say DVI-D so your best bet is the minidisplay port to DVI adapter then the appropriate DVI-D male to male cable.
http://store.apple.com/au/product/MB570Z/A (the adapter)
http://www.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Product_Id=363050 (the cable)
Note your display is only 1050 high so you wont get a full HD image - my LCD HD monitor (BenQ 24") is 1920 x 1080 pixels which is "full size".

The poor quality outcome from project to .mov

first of all, here is my spec:
running on : win 7- 64bit
processor : core i5 [email protected]
RAM: 4GB approximately
graphic card: ATI Radeon HD 4600 series 1GB
BIOS: version: 08.00.15
using AE CS5, installed with quicktime 7.7, K-lite 7.5.8(update version)
well, the problem is when i was add my project to render queque, the video quality is very good,however the sound is horrible
it's kinda some lag on it whenever i played it with several different video player.
Moreover, when i was attempting to convert it (with full license video converter such as AVS&Any Vid Conv) to avi,mkv. whatever the setting is, the result have no more lag,but THERE WAS NO AUDIO AT ALL.
I rendered it to .mov file( compression type "photo-JPEG") and i also checked a check box of audio output( 48.000KHz-32 bit-stereo)
the project is about only 27 second!
sum1, help me please!!

ooww ya, one thing
i just switch into windows XP SP3, i have dual booth on my PC
Inside XP, there are AE CS4 and then i tried to render the broken video .mov(800MB) into the same setting (.mov & 48.000KHz -16bit-stereo& compression "photo-JPEG"). my XP was installed with quicktime 7.3.1.70 and XP codec pack( not K-lite codec pack)
the outcome performance is pretty good, NO LAGS,no glitches .but somehow, the video size was decreased dramatically (200MB). what's going on actually? is the source in CODEC? thx b4

Problem of the poor quality of print as booklet

I hv encounter the problem about the output quality .The file is quite low in resolution while i choose print in booklet,
I use the SAME pdf output setting. The output pdf file from "export (pdf)" it is abvious better than the one from " print as booklet"
How can I fix this problem ?? THX A LOT

O.T. For The Poor - Or The D.I.Y Enthusiast

http://www.lenshoods.co.uk/
This site contains PDF documents that can be printed and cut out to make lens hoods for a variety of 35mm and digital SLR camera lenses.

Some posters have talked about installing Leopard on a FlashDrive, but I have seen no feedback.
Leopard requires 8 or 9 GB for the system, so the 16GB would be necessary, if you intend to install anything else.
For Tiger, you might be able to get away with the 8GB, but why take the chance? Especially if you later decide to upgrade to Leopard.
The install should be simple, just select the FlashDrive when asked for a drive during the install.
Let us know if you go ahead with it and how it worked out.
There are many interested in this but few seem to want to spend the money and experiment with actually doing it.

Ever claiming for the poor quality of mackeeper software. It is a scam.

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