Exactly what is needed...

Post Author: jeff.schertzer
CA Forum: Crystal Reports
Hello,
My product uses Crystal 11, we do basic reporting, excel exporting, and some graphing. My question is this: Exactly what is needed from crystal to get those 3 functions working? Right now, we include in our installation process a file named CR115_NET_2005. Everything works fine, but to me, it seems a bit of overkill. That file is 2268 files and 257 mb. Just to do reporting and graphs? That file is larger than my entire application. If this is truely what I need then so be it, but it seems excessive just to do some reporting.

A printer that supports Airprint:
http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4356

Similar Messages

I would like to create a wavy line (the zig zag feature is not exactly what I need here) to outline

I would like to create a wavy line (the zig zag feature is not exactly what I need here) to outline a shape and then fill it with a solid color. Any ideas?
This is approx what I want; however the undulation needs to be more round and less peaked

Barbara,
If you wish to create a gap between the wavy line and the underlying object, you may:
1) Select the wavy line and Object>Expand Appearance;
2) In the Appearance palette flyout tick New Stroke, drag it beneath the original stroke and increase the Stroke Weight as desired and change the colour to white.
If you wish to make the gap transparent, you may:
3) Select the wavy line and Object>Expand Appearance and Ungroup;
4) Select the white path and the underlying object and in the Transparency palette flyout tick Make Opacity Mask with Clip unticked and Invert Mask ticked.
It may be done in other ways, too.

I need to replace the cable to my 3rd generation iPad, charger to iPad. The ones currently available seem to have a different end. Can someone tell me exactly what I need to purchase?

The cable from the power adapter (charger) to my 3rd generation iPad is fraying, but it looks like the available cables now have a different end on them. Can someone tell me exactly what I need to purchase to replace the cable (adapter too?). I also noticed the power adapters are now 5 or 12 watt, but the one that came with my iPad is a 10 watt. Is this going to be an issue?

Using stevejobsfan0123's link, searching the Q&A for "length" shows the cable is roughly 2 feet long.
http://store.apple.com/us/question/answers/product/MA591G/C/what-length/Q9YKTPUH JJYA7HD2D?fnode=3a&qt=length
UPDATE: I see an answer further down in the search result that says it's 1 meter long. I think this is more accurate.

Exactly what cables and hardware do I need to connect my early-2008 MacBook Pro to a flat-screen TV monitor to have both video and audio?

Hello--
I'm trying to figure out how to connect my 15" MacPro Book from early 2008 to a Sony flat screen TV monitor. I've been told I need a "Mini DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter" and a "HDMI to HDMI" cable, but I've also been reading that some cables only work with 2010 & 2011 laptops and that I may need additional cable/hardware to obtain audio. Could someone advise me on exactly what products I need to purchase?
Thank you!

Which MacBook Pro 15" do you have?
With the silver keyboard (Early 2008)) or that one with a black keyboard (Late 2008)?
If you habe the Late 2008 you can use a miniDisplay Port + Audio to HDMI like that one (stereo sound) or that one (5.1).
If you have the Early 2008, it's not so easy, because you need a DVI + Audio to HDMI like that one (the Audio Channels had to be converted to Coaxial!) So much more adapters! Maybe there is a manufaturer which has the all in one solution)
Both MacBook Pro DOESN'T support audio on the video output! The later ones (Mid 2010 and later) supports Audio output within the miniDisplay Port.

I have iPhoto Version 8.6, and and want to upgrade to Version. I can't find a download for Version 9.0.0. Exactly what version do I need to download and or buy, and where do I find it. Every version of 9 that I download tells me I need an earlier one.

I have iPhoto Version 8.6, and and want to upgrade to Version 9. I can't find a download for Version 9.0.0. Exactly what version do I need to download, and or buy, and where do I find it? Every version of 9 that I download tells me I need an earlier one.

There is no download aside from the one in the Mac App Store available to people running Mac OS X 10.6.6 and newer. The other way of getting iPhoto 9 is to purchase iLife 11 on DVD. As iLife 11 requires Mac OS X 10.6.3 or newer, it's usually best to update to 10.6.8 for free and then use the Mac App Store version.
(61916)

Problems running basic text in aftereffects faster than 19fps... what exactly do I need?

OK, so I finaly upgraded my computer into the mild 21st century, and to my disapointment, I cannot seem to run anything as smoothly as I had thought.
These are the specs for my computer...
ASUS m5a99x EVO motherboard
8 gigs ddr3 1600 ram
NVIDIA 9800gt 1 gig ddr3 gpu
AMD Phenom II x4 B50 Processor at 3.2ghz (IE its an AMD athlon II 450 X3 3.2ghz with its fourth core unlocked (of which i have had no problems with thus far, as it seems to be very stable)
150 gig 7200 sata 2 harddrive (OLD)
200 gig 5400 sata 2 hard drive (OLD AS SH*T)
300ghz portable usb2 hd (7200) (2 years old)
Basicly, I cant seem to run even basic text in after effects faster than 19 FPS.
I've tried to change the resolution to half, and even a fourth, and that didnt work at all, infact it made it run about 1 frame worse.
I tried changing the Open gl texture memory, raising and lowering, but to no avail, Ive changed the ram usage in after effects to use 2 gigs per core, then one gig, then turned off multiframe rendering alltogether, and nothing.
I feel like ive tried everything in my power.
Now the Imacs at my school, they run the program smooth as hell... and they arent that much better, spec wise than my computer.
Even my friends Imac can run it smooth, and he only has an I5 cpu at 2.4ghz, which is fine and my understanding of cpus is that those are better proccessors, but its not that much better, and even still, why would that be neccesary just to run text scrolling accross the screen?
Even more so, why would changing the resolution not have any effect?
What exactly do I need to run after effects smoothly for a basic text scroll at say, 720P?
I need to know what to upgrade, soon I plan to get cs6 and I would like to have a computer that can edit basic HD properly.
What I realy dont get is that I know people with laptops that are running AE smoothly and these are much worse than the specs on my machine, some even with only 4 gigs of ram...
Is there something wrong, do I have some sort of frame limiter thats capping at 19 fps? is there some sort of memory leak?
Any help would be much apreciated.
Now the only thing I can think of thats holding me back is the crappy hard drives, every thing else seems like it should at least run text on after effects at 30 fps.

thanks, that at least is enough to get me started, lol I have a deadline tomorrow and have been burning a lot of time on just trying to get this to run smooth.
BTW, I am running the project off of the portable, I switched from the old, but faster harddrive that was sata2 to the portable given I thought that might increase the speed, which it didnt.
what I might do is crack the case and just plug it straight into the computer, though I am hesitant to do so as if I were going to do that, I might as well just purchase a usb 3.0 one and do that so i can get sata 3 out of it, since those cases dont exactly just snap back together.
When I say basic text, I mean layered text, just word after word in order. I honestly dont have any plugins that I know of, (if I had the money for them I would have spent it on a better computer probably) so what I have is what came with the master collection.
And when I say 19 FPS I mean spacebar...
NOW I KNOW, that Im not garunteed 30 fps when running the preview, but when I use the mac, it previews fine... and i just looked up my CPU in comparison to the I5 in the IMAC that I was refering to, and mine is actualy faster according to some benchmarks, granted its not faster than the vast majority of I5s and I7s, but the particular ones in the computers I was refering to, mine is actualy faster over all, so I figure its not a CPU thing (unless its a -our software only works right on INTEL- thing).
Now as far as the 3d camera, yes I am using it, but even when I run the text without a camera function (ie the thing that you have in your comp) or any sort of 3d layering it runs just as slow.
The Audio might be a problem, I used to have a soundcard, but that died about a year ago so I have been using onboard sound (realtek HD something) which truly sucks in comparison to a proper sound card, but I cant imagine the IMACs have anything better, I mean the sound from the Imac kinda sucks alltogether, dosent even have any sort of virtual surround... But a driver issue it could be, realtek is kind of ghetto in that regard.
I will try some of the tips above (the open gl and the preview output and such), and thank you very much.
*EDIT*
OK, so with the preview output, I have computer monitor only? is that what you ment?
*EDIT*
OK, so I did the OpenGL thing, removed it, and for a brief few secconds, it started to run at a mix of 25 to 30 fps, then, when I went to play it again, it was back at 19.

I am confused about Icloud. I have a 5 year old Macbook, a 2 year old macbook and a 5 year old mac mini. What exactly do I need to do to get all this connected via Icloud. I also have an Iphone 3G. Help please!

I am confused about Icloud. I have a 5 year old Macbook, a 2 year old macbook and a 5 year old mac mini. What exactly do I need to do to get all this connected via Icloud. I also have an Iphone 3G. Help please! Also, I still don't understand exactly what the benefits are. At the moment it seems a lot of hassle to change a system that's been working perfectly well and that I'm very happy with. I'm not at all sure whether the mac mini (1.66 GHz INtel Core Duo) can be brought up to the relevant spec to run ICloud. Any thoughts?

There are two aspects to iCloud. One is simply getting an account, or migrating a mobileme account to iCloud. The second part is using the various features of iCloud to sync contacts, calendars, use music match or photo sharing, and store iWorks documents.
First to get an iCloud account:
If you have a mobileme account, you can migrate by simply logging onto www.icloud.com (ignore any references to Lion and just click through to complete the migration). If you have OS X Lion or an iOS 5 mobile device, you can create an iCloud account on that device using any valid AppleID.
Once you have an account, you can use JUST the mail account if you wishi - it is a standard IMAP account so you would set it up like any other IMAP email account you have, in whatever client program you use to read email.
To use the OTHER feautes of iCloud, your computers will have to be running OS X Lion (10.7). Your iPhone 3G will never be able to use iCloud as it cannot run iOS 5 (you need a min. of an iPhone 3GS to run iOS 5).
The requirements for OS X Lion are here - http://www.apple.com/macosx/specs.html You need a min. of a Core 2 duo processor so you mini is not capable of running Lion.
So, in your case, the single reasons for iCloud would be if you have a mobileme account, then use the online www.icloud.com to migrate your account so you do not lose your @me.com email address. You can use iCloud email (without using any other iCloud features) by setting it up as IMAP mail with these settings - http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4864
If you want an iCloud account and do NOT already have a mobileme account, you will need to upgrade one machine at least to Lion in order to be able to create an iCloud account.

Can someone lay out exactly what the certificate for UM/Lync 2013 needs to be?

Ok, so I spent 480 minutes on my cell phone dealing with this same problem with MS a few weeks ago and they fixed it without telling me exactly what was wrong. I'm doing another Lync 2013 install and still can't get it to talk to UM.
I need to know the following:
Does the cert for the Exchange 2013 UM services need to be issued from the CA or do I use one of the existing Exchange certs?
What does the subject name need to be?
What needs to be included in the SANs?
After the cert is created, do any changes need to be made to the Lync server, or is the cert simply assigned to the UM roles via Exchange Admin Center, restart UM services, and it works?

You can issue the cert from an internal CA or use a self signed cert as long as it's trusted by Lync.
The subject name should be the server's FQDN.
Nothing else really needs to be a SAN unless you're assigning this cert to a service outside of UM, for example if you needed it to also have a webmail.domain.com or autodiscover.domain.com for the CAS role.
Your best bet is to just let the Exchange certificate wizard create it for you, and nothing really needs to change on the Lync server side, but when you bring the services up you might want to do it during off hours. I've seen an issue where for the
UM server takes a moment longer to get up to speed and rejects calls sent at it for 15 or so minutes. But, it should just work.
Please remember, if you see a post that helped you please click "Vote As Helpful" and if it answered your question please click "Mark As Answer".
SWC Unified Communications

Need Help in Knowing Exactly What is Installed & Upgrading RAM & HD

Hello-
I am not very tech savvy, so I am calling for some help here. I might be getting in over my head, but I think with some help here and from Apple articles, I should be able to correctly upgrade to the max RAM and the best quality and largets HD. I have a brand new cMBP. I wanted 16 GB (or need 16 Gb of RAM) but that configuration was not possible. I understand one needs to install RAM that is compatible with the existing RAM, which I do not know how to figue that out too. I need to figure out how much RAM is currently installed, and either take the existing RAM out and install sticks of the best RAM I can get for this cMBP that equals 16 GB of RAM. I would like some recommendations on where to go to get the RAM, how to know what type I need (I know there are several numbers/letters that identify the RAM), and I think I found the link that shows me how to change the RAM. I do not have the proper screwdrivers so I will need to get those, but my main concern is to know what to do with the existing RAM. I know that I did order the least amount of RAM I could get since I knew I needed 16 GB so I was gong to upgrade. I did read the RAM has to be evenly divided but I am not sure exactly what that means since I do not know how many slots it has. I stayed with the least expensive HD because I knew I was going to try and upgrade to the largest SSD (or Flash Drive-not sure of the difference). If it is difficult to swap out the existing HD 5200rpm for the best SSD, I have not been able to find that Apple article, but recommendations on a website to get these drives for the MBP I just received would be really helpful.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Remember I am not savvy in this type of stuff so I need as much detail explanation as one can give me.

As for the 'old' RAM - I have a drawer full of old sticks, carefully labeled. Because RAM is so cheap just now, you're not able to get much for it: maybe hand it down to a friend in need?
Yes, the 512GB is one of the largest consumer SSDs made. OWC has a 980GB, but it's only for 3Gbps speeds and we have 6Gbps speeds on our MacBook Pros. For some good information and a 'buyer's guide' to SSDs, see Sean's SSD Buyers Guide & Information Thread. One of the drives that he recommends is the Crucial m4 series.
I do use my Thunderbolt port - I've an Apple Thunderbolt Display and just recently (this month) added a LaCie 2Big Thunderbolt 4TB disk (it's actually 2 disks - it comes formatted as RAID 0 but I 'unraided' it and now have two 2TB disks). Lightening fast - I use one drive as a Time Machine backup and the other as my 'working' drive for any and all projects that I'm currently working on.
Because my Denon reciever has AirPlay, I don't have external speakers for my computer any longer. My first pair were some Harman Kardon Soundsticks and they were good, but I bought the Bose Companion (it was at III then - I believe that they're at 5 now) speakers in 2006 and found them to be unsurpassed. They work great with Apple products. The Bose are expensive, but worth it.
Try Amazon for both the Crucial RAM and SSD - they have a slight discount, anyway, from what you'd pay ordering directly from Crucial.
Good luck,
Clinton

What exactly do I need to upgrade??

I am a little confused about software (DVDS) I would need to get in order to upgrade to OS X 10.4. Currently, I have a g4 ibook running 10.3.9, and a imac g4 running 10.2.3. I would like to upgrade both to 10.4. I have been looking on ebay and I don't know the difference between upgrades, full install, retail version, etc. There are many different versions for software as being machine specific as well. My imac is only 800mhz so I couldn't do 10.5 which is what is in stores now. I have never upgraded before. Also, I do not own the boot discs for the imac because I got it used and never had to reinstall (yet). So, I would like to figure out what I need to cover all basis and make the best purchase. Could something serve as the boot discs as well as upgrade??
Thanks!!

Hi,
To Upgrade you need a full retail DVD of Tiger, it looks like this:
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/3183/tiger1dk1.jpg
Any Grey machine specific disk, upgrade, drop-in etc. won't work.
You can use this single DVD to install OS X Tiger on both of your macs. I recommend you use the erase+install feature not 'upgrade'.
Legally though, you are only meant to install Tiger on one computer per DVD unless you buy the family pack (5 licenses). There is no difference physically between these packages though (Same single DVD, but you pay a little extra so you have enough licenses). since Tiger has been discontinued I'm not sure how Family packs are sold.
Once you have this DVD you can use it to re-install the OS as many times as you like so the original disks that came with your machine(s) won't really be necessary.

BEFW11S4 for Bridge/ Repeater/ Client/ What- exactly- do- I- need- really?

I have a BEFW11S4 (hooked up to a DSL Modem) as the basic router/hub of my home network. I have a laptop that connects wirelessly, but all the other machines in my network (e.g. a network printer) are wired into the BEFW11S4.
I would like to wire up some more machines to a switch in another room, and hook up this network to my main network wirelessly. That is, this new group of machines needs a gadget that can talk wirelessly to the BEFW11S4 in order to extend my home LAN, and allow any machine on one wired segment to access any machine on the other wired segment.
First, a question of terminology: what do I need? A Bridge (whatever that is, and what is it anyway)? A Repeater? A Client? Something Else?
Second, implementation: What gizmo will do what I need, and how do I configure the BEFW11S4 to work with it?
I note, for example, that with the later versions of firmware (I have 1.52.02), there does not appear to be any way to determine the Wireless MAC address of the BEFW11S4 (I can only see the WAN address and the wired LAN address). This observation was prompted by a reading of the manual of a product of a competitor, which basically said that such an address would be needed for the setup of their equipment as a Bridge-or-Repeater-or-Client (I don't know which as the descriptions left me completely in the dark about the differences.)
Thanks!
(Edited subject to keep threads from stretching. Thanks!)
Message Edited by JOHNDOE_06 on 10-15-2008 07:43 AM

You want a wireless bridge like the Linksys WETs.
You can also get a versatile wireless access point which can be configured as wireless bridge like the Linksys WAPs.
For a standard wireless bridge (i.e. linking a wired LAN through a wireless link to an existing LAN) you don't need the MAC address of the main access point. All you do is setting up a standard client connection to the access point. A WET will you to scan the environment for networks and it will list all networks including the MAC addresses of the access points. Any wireless network scanner like NetStumbler will also show you the mac address if you need it.
You only really need the MAC address if you want to set up a wireless distribution system (WDS). This is when you want not only a simple wireless bridge but a roaming wireless network and the bridge at the same time. A WDS access point will connect wireless to the main access point. The WDS access point will also accept incoming client connections and repeat those signals to the main access point. As you can have multiple WDS access points you have to set up the topology of your wireless network by defining the access points to which they should actually connect to. But for your purposes you won't need that.
You should also be able to guess the MAC address simply by looking at the WAN and LAN interface MAC addresses. Usually, the MAC addresses of the WAN, LAN and wireless interfaces are in sequential order.

Exactly what partitions is the BIOS checking for when starting a HP mini 110?

My niece has a HP mini 110 that failed one day. On doing a bios hard drive check it failed (7 on read). I though I'd have to get a new one so I ordered another. While waiting for this to arrive I got access to a SATA usb bridge and as the opperating system was beyond repair and the disk unreadable by the HP mini, I decided to try to repair the disk. So I reformatted the old drive using my desktop computer. Windows had no problems with the drive and it seemed to run fine.
I also had to order the recovery disks (windows 7 intro).
Anyway on trying to reinstall using the recovery disks via USB DVD drive. It kept coming back with error 17 - which I found to be a hard drive error. I also tried installing using a Windows XP installation disk and this was more self explanatory it said there was either NO hard drive installed - or 'it didn't match the hardware specs for the unit' (or words to that effect)
On getting the new hard drive - same problem. Even though both of these hard drives work as USB drives connected to my main desk. SO, my conclusion is that on boot up the BIOS inspects the hard drive, checks to see the configuration of the formatting. i.e. the size and partitions etc. and when these are not matching the BIOS idea of proper specs it rejects the hard drive and considers there is none installed. Or perhaps there needs to be some basic files on the hard drive. Whatever the case, the bios concludes there is no hard drive and will always return a 'fail' in the bios hard drive test.
Any ideas on this? I need to find out exactly what partitions are expected by the bios. Does anyone have these specs, or perhaps you have a HP mini and can examine your hard drive and tell me the partition amounts and sizes?
Unless I can get the bios to recognise the hard drive I can't see how I can reinstall the OS on to it. Any and all help much appreciated.
Thanks
When it comes to fixing computers the longest word in the English language is "JUST" . . . as in 'you just do that and it will work' :-)

beevo you have used your logic to come up with the answer but in this case you are just a little bit off. The hard drive error you see in the BIOS is a SMART error. This is read out by a chip inside the hard drive itself working in conjunction with the BIOS. The chip stores data and is constantly testing the drive and if the read time or seek time or such such parameter is out of whack it reports that to the BIOS and you get a SMART error. It is a pure hardware thing and has nothing to do with any partition scheme or anthing else to do with the actual contents of the drive. A blank hard drive (written with all 0s) will still throw off a SMART error if there is such an error. SMART errors vary in severity but my rule of thumb and the mainstream thinking on this is treat a SMART error like a diagnosis of an incurable cancer. The patient might live a while but his days are numbered. Back up, as stated above, and buy a new hard drive which you have apparently already done.
A drive with errors will sometimes format fine in Windows and work just fine as an external type drive with a usb connection but you would not want to use it for an operating system.
The fact that WIndows XP is not seeing the drive on installation is a Windows XP thing. Windows XP does not recognize SATA hard drives. You need to slipstream in a SATA driver while you run XP installation by either modifying the install CD or using a usb external floppy disk.
To be clear, have you tried the recovery disks with the new hard drive and you still get the error or you have only tried to install XP on the new drive? If you are getting the error 7 with the new drive, you may have bigger problems such as a bad storage controller on the motherboard. That kind of error can cause the BIOS to read out a SMART error, too. You might want to try a hard reset on the computer by removing battery and AC adapter, hold down the power button 30 seconds and then try to start it with the AC attached. You can also boot it with no hard drive in and try resetting the BIOS to default settings and try the hard drive again.
Also to be clear, is the error 7 actually showing up in the BIOS or is it showing up during installation from the recovery disks? Are the recovery disks Windows 7 or XP?

I have been trying to download ios8. I dont remember exactly what happened but at some point I ended up unplugging my phone from my computer because there was an error. Every since then it has not been turning on or responding to iTunes. When it d

I have been trying to download ios8. I dont remember exactly what happened but at some point I ended up unplugging my phone from my computer because there was an error. Every since then it has not been turning on or responding to iTunes.
When it does respond to iTunes it tells me that I have to restore my phone. I click restore and it says "Extracting Software". It gets all the way to the end and then says that there is an error; something about a disk being full?
I have no idea what is going on and I could really use some help.
Thanks.

1. You did not get an error message telling you that your iPhoto library was getting full. You got a message telling you that your HD was getting full, right?
OS X needs about 10 gigs of hard drive space for normal OS operations - things like virtual memory, temporary files and so on.
Without this space your Mac will slow down as the OS hunts for space on the disk, files will be fragmented, also slowing things down, apps will crash and the risk of data corruption - that is damage to your files, photos, music - increases exponentially.
Your first priority is to make more space on that HD. Nothing else can be done until you do.
Purchase an external HD and move your Photos and Music to it. Both iPhoto and iTunes can run perfectly well with the Library on an external disk.
Your Library has been damaged from being run on an overfull disk.
How much free space on it now?

I want to know what I need and then how to take a pdf form I created in word and add the blue boxes so that anyone can type into my form

I want to know what I need and then how to take a pdf form I created in word and add the blue boxes so that anyone can type into my form

Hey john@adobe,
Could you please specify how exactly have you created your form.
You might need to have Acrobat installed on your computer to convert a word document to PDF.
Do you have Acrobat installed? If yes, what version? If no, then please try using the trial version of Acrobat DC (latest version) and access its features:
Download Adobe Acrobat free trial | Acrobat Pro DC
Also, let me know what kind of blue boxes are you talking about.
If you want others to edit your PDF form, then you need to make it a fillable form by choosing 'Form Editing' option from Tools pane.
Let me know more on this so that I can help you out.
Regards,
Anubha

2 GB of RAM in the eMac? Exactly what type please/

OK. So I'm just finding out now that my 1.25Ghz eMac is actually capable of running with 2 GBs of RAM, rather than the 1GB max that Apple publishes.
Assuming that this will actually work, it is welcome news for me.
1. Are there any problems that I should expect to see?
2. Exactly what type of RAM sticks should I be looking for?
[I know they're 184 PIN. It also looks like I should be asking for "PC2700", whatever that means.]
3. Are there any other labels that I need to make sure the RAM I buy has?
4. Is it possible to get a 1GB "184 PIN PC2700" RAM stick with that won't work in my eMac's RAM slots?
5. How unreliable is used RAM?
Any help appreciated.

Hi,
I too am in Toronto. I have been using Macs for more than 2 decades; and shopped around for the best deals for just about everything in the way of Mac parts.
Regardless of where you buy, PST and GST are added to whatever price is listed, thus the extra cost of buying elsewhere is the shipping.
For RAM, I have had excellent results buying from Ramdirect. So much so that I no longer even bother to compare prices. (For the record, I have no relationship of any kind with the company other than as a satisfied customer.) Even with the shipping cost added, I was not able to do better for price.
http://www.ramdirect.com/
You can email me if you want to carry on this conversation off-line - click on my name.
And thanks to Allan Jones who sent me an email alert about a fellow Torontonian looking for advice!

Exactly what is needed...

Similar Messages

Maybe you are looking for