Export Audio to QT Movie -- Expected Behavior and Other Questions

In the past I've reported that the Export Audio to QT Movie function didn't work correctly in LP 7.1.1. Well, it still doesn't seem to work correctly, but this time around I'm at least getting some kind of result. It would be kinda cool if I could get it to work according to play.
I'd like to get comments on this procedure, i.e., what kind of behavior should I expect; am I doing something wrong, etc.
• The movie (25 minutes long) starts with a 19-second slug (no timecode burn) followed by first picture with timecode burn starting at 00:00:19:00
• Movie Start Time = 00:00:00:00.01 (the extra bit is to work around a bug)
• SMPTE time for bar 1 1 1 1 = 00:00:19:00
• L & R locators set to the position & length of audio I want to export to the movie (L = bar 1 and R = bar 14)
• Cycle = ON
• Selected a single region of audio (track 1, outputs 1/2)
When I invoked the export function, I was presented with a dialog:
Immediately I notice that there is no 24-bit option (comments?)
Then I encountered this message:
The file listed there is the dialog track for the movie. No problem there. Now, keeping in mind that my file is only 13 measures long (at a fairly fast tempo),
Logic then performed a very long "bounce" procedure, followed by a long "converting" procedure, followed by a "saving" procedure (in which it was writing the new QT movie file).
In the resulting movie (which BTW was the full length of the film) the audio was waaaaaaay out of sync. But aside from that, is it normal to expect that the full-length of the film will be exported? I was expecting that perhaps only the first 13-measures-worth of movie would be exported. (comments?)
So I tried again. This time I moved the song end marker to bar 14 and invoked the export function. I got all of the same dialogs as above, but the "bounce" procedure took no time at all. Neither did the "converting" procedure. I expected this, as now Logic was set to think that the song was only 14 measures long. But the "saving" procedure took as long as last time.
In the resulting movie (which was again the full length of the film), the audio was again out of sync, though not by much. Still unusable tho. Again, should I expect that only a short clip of the movie would be exported? Or, should I expect the full length movie to be saved? (comments?)
-=iS=-
P.S. BTW, the reason my movie start time is set to 00 and not 19 seconds is because... well, that's the subject of another thread, but save to say that the above settings were the only way I could get first picture to line up with bar 1 of my song.

Thanks for your reply George.
I normally use QT Pro to embed audio into picture also. Thought I'd try this route one more time tho.
Regarding my movie start time, I'm finding that if I set my movie start time to 19 seconds (where the burn-in first becomes visible, and which is indeed 19 seconds into the film), my SMPTE offset has to be 38 seconds. This means that Logic's t/c counter doesn't jibe with the film. So to make it so I have to enable the SMPTE view offset in the synchronization pane. But enabling it there doesn't automatically switch it on for the Giant SMPTE counter transport display.
Anyway, back to the subject at hand. I'll try the settings you suggested and see if that makes a difference.
Bouncing a chunk of movie always works perfectly here <<</div>
Can you clarify something? I know you said that you end up with a null file when you try the export thing, but in your above statement, did you mean that when you've tried this that it did in fact export a chunk of the movie, but without audio?
Cheers!
-=iS=-

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Can Logic Export Audio into a Movie PORTION?

I am a film composer. I'd like to export as a quicktime movie, my cue(song mix) with the appropriate portion of the movie that it is synced up to. Preferably at a user defined resolution and compression setting (ie: so I can create little preview quicktime movies to show my directors over the net).
Can this be done?
And if not, what application would be best to insert an audio file as a soundtrack into a Quicktime movie and get frame accurate results? Does PRO TOOLS do that?
Thanks in advance,
Evan EVans

sorry mate, can't be done. what you can do is;
1. with quicktimepro, extract the section that you want to do it with. you don't have to save the all the information, you can save it as a file referenced to the orginal film. when you do that, the file will only be about 165k as opposed to Gbs. so it's quick. you can then open that in logic and put your music onto the film and sync. (BTW depending on the codec you are using, you can still use movieplayer that came with authoring goodies back from OS 8 days, and that works in classic, though it doesn't play back very well, you can make the referenced file that works just fine in os x)
2. import it into imovie and edit out the bit you need, but at that rate you might as well bring the cue into imovie as well. the advnatage there is that you can export the great new codecs with first class quailty and tiny file sizes.
finally, to my knowledge protools does not allow you to extract and bounce a portion of a quicktime movie. it is a quicktime thing. you have to have quicktimepro.

Exporting Audio with Quicktime Movie - Error 29562

There was a prior post about this that the OP marked as 'Answered' but it really wasn't for myself and a few others, so I'm posting a new topic. Sorry if that's inappropriate.
Using Logic 8.0, I've scored a section for a film and want to bounce that scene for client approval. I have the scene set with cycle region and I go to Options>Movie>Export Audio to Movie... I'm leaving the settings at their default states, and Logic runs through the process of bouncing the file, but at the end I get "Unknown System Error. Result Code=29562"
I've searched around and can't figure out what's going on. This worked fine for me on the last project I did in Logic 7 a month ago, but for some reason not working in Logic 8. Haven't applied the latest Logic update as some folks were complaining about it and I'd already started this project. Anyone know if it's addressed there?
Otherwise, thanks for any help!

Just installed Logic 8.0.1 and the problem has disappeared! That's the only thing I've tried since the update, so I'm assuming it's fixed anyway. Now to see if anything else goes screwy....

Audio midi sync error in logic and other apps

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please note all of this was not happening before the update and the exact same projects played back fine before. i'm positive it's something to do with midi. for example ableton live has been creating text files to its preferences folder titled midijitter etc. etc.
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I am used to running Logic Audio 6 on my old Imac in System 9 so the new or apparent lack of Logic Folders etc is quite bizarre for me. So if anyone can also throw me some pointers on:
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Crossover Settings Confusion and Other Questions

Equipment is as follows:
- LG 55-inch 55LH90 LED TV
- Denon AVR-590 A/V Receiver
- Klipsch HD 500 5.1 Speakers
- DirecTV High Def Satellite Receiver/DVR
Long story very short is that I hit a button on the receiver remote about two weeks ago, unknowingly changing the existing audio settings to something along the lines of Matrix or Direct or Stereo. I'm not one to fool with trying to customize settings on equip. like this... I usually just use the very basic functionality in controlling the equipment, as that's why I paid money 1.5 years ago to have everything professionally installed and calibrated.
Upon accidentally hitting that remote control button, my audio went to pot, was very muffled, volume was minimal, sound was hissy, etc. Sounded like I was listening to $15 speakers.
Had no idea what had happened, didn't want to fool with trying to figure it out myself, contacted the receiver manufacturer to explain what had happened, they recommended immediately that I reset the receiver and thought the processor had locked up. Did the reset and that of course unfortunately scrapped all of my custom calibration settings that the installers had configured a year and a half ago. Sound still not improved. Recommended that I send the receiver in for repair. I held off for a few days on doing that and finally found the likely cause / solution on a message board, clicked the same button on the remote that I'd likely clicked by accident a few weeks earlier, and the sound was back to a more normal level.
However, now I'm left without all of those custom calibrations via the Audyssey stuff that was erased, and I'm lost as can be as to how to get our system sounding like it did prior to all of this happening approx. 2 weeks ago.
I'm lost on the crossover frequency settings and what they should be, what the dials on the rear of the subwoofer should be set at, what the crossover settings for the front / center / rear surround speakers should be, etc.
I ran the Audyssey configuration using the supplied microphone that came with the receiver, but the resulting sound just still doesn't sound at all like it did originally after the installers did all of the setup / configuration back in Aug. 2009.
Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my front L/R speakers to 120 HZ. Audyssey sets the crossover level of my center channel to 110 Hz. Audyssey sets the crossover levels of my rear L/R surround speakers to 120 Hz. In what I seem to remember is the "bass management" area of the receiver settings, the crossover for the subwoofer is set at 80 Hz. I believe another setting for the subwoofer is LFE+Main, too.
With the above in mind, I have no idea at all (1) if the crossover values are appropriate for the various speakers and the subwoofer in the mix to distribute high/mid/low sounds appropriately between the speakers and the sub, (2) I have no idea what the "Level" knob on the rear of the subwoofer should be set to (values range from Min to Max), (3) I have no idea what the LowPass (Hz) knob on the rear of the subwoofer (ranges from 80 to 100) should be set to, and am just very confused / frustrated that with the accidental click of a button on the receiver remote 2 wks. ago and then Denon's tech support recommending the most drastic solution to this issue in resetting the receiver's processor and erasing all of the custom Audyssey settings. I'm left with very sub-par sound as a result of all of this and can't seem to get the re-run Audyssey calibration routine to get my system back to sounding as phenomenal / balanced as it did for nearly 1.5 years straight after the initial setup / calibration of everything back in Aug. 2009 by the Best Buy professional installers.
Any explanations of what the crossover settings for all of my speakers and subwoofer, knob settings on the rear of the subwoofer should be (in general, mind you, as I know all situations / environments / listening preferences are different), or any other helpful recommendations are GREATLY appreciated. I'm very frustrated that Denon's tech support didn't first have me see if I had accidentally adjusted the sound properties via the remote via an accidental button click as opposed to taking my receiver back to square one. I'm not a technical master of this stuff and have no idea what I'm doing wrong in trying to get everything back to sounding like the great system it used to sound like.
Thanks in advance for any clearly-explained suggestions / recommendations on all of this. My last resort is to contact Best Buy and pay them to come back out to re-calibrate everything themselves if I can't figure out where my calibration settings / adjustments are wrong.

As I said in my first post in your other thread "you changed a setting the receiver and speakers are fine" <- not word for word but close to what I said LOL. I knew from what you described thats what it had to be. I do have a concern about the phase issues and the distance readings but that could be placement of mic or if your speakers are facing straight out instead of being slightly faced inward. May I ask where did you place the mic and was it on a tripod? I suggest either borrowing or buying a camcorder tripod for this. I answered your questions below in blue.
Also before ever doing a reset on any piece of equipment check the internet for some ideas as it could save you a lot of headaches.
bmccollum wrote:
Okay... stayed up late last night running through the Audyssey calibration routine. Took several tries at the calibration routine, as it kept on coming back saying I had phase issues with various speakers (it bounced around between telling me the phase issues were with the Front Left, the Front Right, and the Center Channel). I just kept on re-running Audyssey until it finally ceased telling me some of the speakers had phasing issues.
Before I continue, I can't thank you enough again for reading through my posts and offering your suggestions... really do appreciate the assistance!
While I'm thinking about it, I determined why the sound qualities / volume / etc. got so poor all of a sudden about 2-3 weeks ago. I apparently accidentally hit one of the buttons on the receiver remote that changed the sound setup from whatever it had been set on forever to something like "Virtual" or "Direct" or "Stereo" or something like that, as opposed to Dolby Digital or whatever it had been set on forever. I unfortunately went through the recommended Microprocessor Reset procedure on the receiver per their tech support's recommendation & that's why I lost all of the original Audyssey calibrated settings from August 2009, when all along, I could've just resolved the audio issues if I'd known that I'd accidentally clicked a button on the receiver remote, and had known I just needed to re-click another button to get the audio back to what it was normally set on. Here are the results that were set by the Denon AVR-590 via the Audyssey calibration. Note: Before beginning the Audyssey calibration process, I had the volume level knob on the rear of the sub itself turned halfway to the 12 o'clock position, and the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub turned all the way to the right (I believe 160 was the value). I ultimately turned the volume knob on the rear of the sub to about the 10 o'clock position as I re-ran the Audyysey calibration multiple times, as the dB values being shown for the sub were coming back at - 12.0 db or close to that with the sub volume set at the 12 o'clock position. The sub dB value got closer to the desired 0 dB value (as shown below) with the sub volume knob set to the 10 o'clock position.
* Speaker Configuration Check    *
- Front Speaker                 Small
- Center Speaker              Small
- Subwoofer                       Yes
- Surround Speaker         Small
- S. Back (Preout)             None
* Distance Check                 *
- Front Left                         0.1 ft                     (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) is the speaker facing slightly in
- Front Right                       1.3 ft                     (this should seemingly be more like 15.0 ft) "  it should be                             "
- Center                               14.7 ft                   (this seems accurate)
- Subwoofer                       16.3 ft                   (this seems accurate)
- Surround Left                 8.0 ft                     (this seems accurate)
- Surround Right               8.7 ft                     (this seems accurate)
* Channel Level Check            *
- Front Left                         + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Center                               + 2.5 dB
- Front Right                       + 12.0 dB Lower this to about 2 or 3 db below the center channel
- Surround Right               + 2.0 dB
- Surround Left                 + 2.5 dB
- Subwoofer                       - 2.0 dB
* Crossover Frequency Check      *
- Front                                  60 Hz                    (seems low... not sure...) Set to 80 hz
- Center                               120 Hz                   (seems reasonable... not sure...)you can leave it or set it to 80 hz
- Surround                          150 Hz                   (seems high... not sure...) again leave it or set it to 120 or 80 hz
- S. Back                               None
Okay, I've made the following minor adjustments thus far post-Audyssey calibration, as noted below:
- SW Mode:                        LFE+Main set to LFE only
- LPF for LFE:                      120 Hz
- Sub Volume Knob         Left sitting around the 10-11 o'clock position on rear of sub
- LowPass Knob                                Left sitting at max setting to the right on rear of sub (I believe value is 160)
- Front Left                         15.1 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 0.1 ft
- Front Right                       15.3 ft. is now what I've set the distance chk. at manually, as opposed to 1.3 ft.
So there we are... ANY additional insight you may have on any of the values I've reported to you and whether or not they seem reasonable or completely out of whack is greatly appreciated. My main concerns/questions are the various Crossover Freqency values set by Audyssey and whether or not they should likely be manually adjusted by me to better utilize/distribute the sound between the various speakers / sub, and secondly, why/how did Audyssey so incorrectly set the distance of my Front Left & Front Right speakers and was it likely wise of me to have set them to what they should be w/a new distance setting now of around 15 ft. for each of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
Here are my questions in a nutshell now. I'm probably overanalyzing things now since having experienced this audio issue a few weeks ago and now I'm prob. hyper-sensitive to all aspects of the home theater sound I have at present.
(1) Why do commercials seem to have expanded sound using all speakers whereas just you plain ol' TV programs seem to use fewer speakers and just mainly the center channel aside from some occasional applause and such coming out of the Front Left and Front Right speakers?
The commercials are most likely broadcast in stereo instead of surround sound. The receiver will switch from dolby digital to stereo and you won't even notice it except for the sound.
(2) Why would I hit the "STD" button on the receiver remote to choose Dolby Digital vs. when
to hit the "SIMU" button on the receiver remote to select "5 Channel Stereo" or other options via that "SIMU" button?5 Channel stereo is just that, Its 2 channel stereo being output through all 5 channels. It is not 5 channel surround. Standard give you Dolby digital, Prologic II etc. Simulation gives you 5 channel stereo, Matrix, Hall and the other simulated surrounds. You want to hit the standard button.
(3) On rear of subwoofer, I've set the LowPass knob all the way to the right, assuming that the "LFE +Main" and "LPF for LFE = 120Hz" settings override the LowPass knob on the rear of the sub, therefore having that knob turned all the way to the right to allow the settings for the sub in the receiver itself to control the LowPass / Crossover stuff. Correct. As long as the sub accepts LFE signals the receiver will send anything lower than 120hz directly to the sub. If not that is why you are setting it to the highest setting.
(4) With Audyssey Crossover Frequencies set as shown above, are these reasonable/appropriate values to where all speakers are utilized properly for the equipment I have in distributing all low/mid/high frequencies appropriate between the various speakers / sub without audio drops and so forth? The Crossover Frequency stuff is probably the most confusing part of all of this to me.
Again, I can't thank you enough for your help and any additional recommendations you can make regarding my situation.

Document Classes and other Questions

Basically, i am working on an application that will eventually be deployed to the desktop as an AIR application.
I am wanting to create an Analogue clock and Digital clock with a button that toggles the display between either one when pressed. As well as this, i will be wanting to display the Date below, i am having a number of issues however.
I have the code sorted for three of the four components, i have not attempted to figure out the button thus far as i would be more than happy to have the digital clock, analogue clock and date all being displayed on a drag and drop desktop application first. When i say i have it sorted, i have a fully working analogue clock which i have managed to display on the desktop through air on its lonesome, however, i did not include the drag and drop function. For the digital clock and date components i am not sure how to configure them into document classes. The main issue i am having is i do not know if you can reference a dynamic text box within a movie clip to a document class.
This is the code to show the date
[code]{
var currentTime:Date = new Date();
var month:Array = new Array("January","February","March","April","May","June","July","August","September","Octo ber","November","December");
var dayOfWeek:Array = new Array("Sunday","Monday","Tuesday","Wednesday","Thursday","Friday","Saturday");
date_text.text = dayOfWeek[currentTime.getDay()] + " " + currentTime.getDate() + " " + month[currentTime.getMonth()] + " " + currentTime.getFullYear();
[/code]
I have put the actionscript frame inside the movie clip file, and i have given both the movie clip, and the dynamic text box within the movie clip the instance name "date_text".
Basically, i am just struggling in how to put this code into a working document class, since the digital clock and date functions are both, some what similar, i feel the solution to one will more than likely lead to me discovering the solution for the other.
The other problem i am having, i do not know how i will display all of the components on one air application. I am assuming, that you create one other document class file which links the other four together? i have tried to do this by just linking a new FLA file with the analogue clock, but it does not work. The code for that is below.
[code]package
          import flash.events.Event;
          import flash.display.MovieClip;
          public class time1 extends MovieClip
                    public var now:Date;
                    public function time1()
                              // Update screen every frame
                              addEventListener(Event.ENTER_FRAME,enterFrameHandler);
                    // Event Handling:
                    function enterFrameHandler(event:Event):void
                              now = new Date();
                              // Rotate clock hands
                              hourHand_mc.rotation = now.getHours()*30+(now.getMinutes()/2);
                              minuteHand_mc.rotation = now.getMinutes()*6+(now.getSeconds()/10);
                              secondHand_mc.rotation = now.getSeconds()*6;
[/code]
That is the original clock document class (3 Movie clips for the moving hands, and the clock face is a graphic, which i may have to reference somehow below)?
[code]package
          import flash.display.MovieClip;
          public class main extends MovieClip
                    public var hourHand_mc:time1;
                    public var minuteHand_mc:time1;
                    public var secondHand_mc:time1;
                    public function main()
                              hourHand_mc = new SecondHand();
                              addChild(mySecondHand);
                              hourHand_mc.x = 75;
                              hourHand_mc.y = 75;
                              minuteHand_mc = new SecondHand();
                              addChild(mySecondHand);
                              minuteHand_mc.x = 75;
                              minuteHand_mc.y = 75;
                              secondHand_mc = new SecondHand();
                              addChild(mySecondHand);
                              secondHand.x = 75;
                              secondHand.y = 75;
}[/code]
This is my attempt at creating the main document class in a seperate FLA file to attempt to load the analogue clock, and later on the Digital Clock, Date Function and Toggle Display button in the same AIR application.
Any help on this is much appreciated, i have been reading up a lot on it through tutorials and the like, but i can't seem to fully grasp it.

why do you have code in a movieclip?
if you want to follow best practice and use a document class you should remove almost all code from timelines. the only timeline code that might be reasonably used would be a stop() on the first frame of multiframe movieclips.
so, you should have a document class. that could contain all your code but it would be better to just have your document class create your 2 clocks and date objects and possibly manage toggling between the two clocks. you could have a separate class the tracks the time and date and that class is used by your two clock classes and your date class.

Does Final Cut Express 4 work with mac mini and other questions...?

I have a few questions I need help in answering... I would appreciate opinions on the following:
I am about to make a purchase of a new mac. I already have a mac mini PPC, but it is too slow...
Here is what I am thinking.
Mac mini, 2GB mem, 160GB hard drive. Will this new mac mini work with Final Cut Express 4?
Or should I go with the more powerful iMac?
I like to make movies on my mac but I hate iMovie 08 so I constantly use iMovie HD 06. Should I go to Final Cut Express 4 or just stick with iMovie HD 06?

There is no doubt that FCE 4 will run on an Intel mini - the GMA graphics processor is compatible. There is also no doubt that an iMac would give you somewhat better overall performance, though it's important perhaps to note that as complex as FCE is, it is actually a little less demanding on hardware than iMovie has traditionally been, so the difference between a mini with 2Gb RAM and a similarly equipped iMac will not be all that great in FCE, though it will become a little more noticeable if you continue to use iMovie 6.
The main reason for the performance difference between iMovie and FCE is that in order to provide a reasonably sophisticated video editing package that will run on very basic hardware, Apple relied heavily on caching techniques, meaning that while FCE basically spools from video and relies on CPU power, iMovie constantly moves data to and from the hard drive. The mini's hard drive is a (relatively) slow device in comparison to the iMac's - thus the iMac runs iMovie rather more seamlessly. In FCE, the difference is, as said, rather less clear unless you were to go for the top-end model.
If your budget can stretch to an iMac it makes sense to go that route simply because the extra power and overall performance (and the better graphics processor) will give you greater flexibility down the road. On the other hand, if funds are tight and you need to spend as little as reasonably possible, a mini will do fine, and is sufficient;y inexpensive that in a couple of years could be sold off and replaced without severe financial implications.
In terms of the choice between FCE or iMovie, beware that if you haven't used FCE before, the transition is not easy, and the learning curve for it is pretty steep. That said, it has far greater power and flexibility in terms of what you can achieve with it than has ever been possible with iMovie.
That said, for casual and home use, iMovie (version 6 at least) has plenty of power and tools for the majority of projects. iMovie 8 is, in many ways, deeply flawed for those who want that sort of power and workflow tools, being that it is designed for quick and easy creation of movies, not creative and considered productions. It has it's uses, but if you have experience with iMovie already, v8 is really not intended for you at all.
All that said, I've used iMovie 6 on systems will a lot less power than the current Intel minis, and have found it stable and workable, so I have no doubt it would work well on any current Mac.

Using iCloud as iDisk, and other questions . . .

Friends,
I am used to keeping my iDisk on the desktop of all my computers, so with one quick click I can get to all my stored documents. I travel a lot and keep all my work documents on the iDisk.
The iDisk icon still shows on my 27" iMac, but no longer shows on my macbook (both running Lion).
I know that Apple wants everyone to move to iCloud (and I still don't know what the difference is--what features iCloud has over Mobile Me), but here's what I want to do . . . can anyone help?
1. Keep my iCloud drive on my desktop just like I do with iDisk.
2. Still have access to "gallery" so I can host photos. As I understand it, this feature is going away with iCloud. True?
3. I am using iCloud on all my devices (at least it's on all my devices, turned on), but the MacBook isn't syncing. So, if I remove bookmarks on my iMac, the MacBook isn't getting them.
4. *** does iCloud offer me (of value) over MM?
Thanks.

Here to answer questions.....I thought WC was longer with us....good answer.
I agree MM had the features I really liked (am was a very long time .mac member). iCloud will only get better at least that's my dream. I don't miss iDisk but certainly miss keychain and mail preferences sync. I hate the thought of making a new encrypted spare image then saving the keychain on my other computers.
Just wait...............................I think iCloud will evolve into super sync for all Apple devices. Thats what all Mac users yearn for (wait for OS 11.0 code name Cirrus).
Cheers

Sound Blaster Z headphone gain and other questions, Help Please

Hello all, I recently installed a Sound Blaster Z on my msi z77a-gd65 board running windows 8.1 and using the latest driver.
I want to use the sound card for gaming via my headphones, but am running into several issues.
1.The first is that it appears that my Headphone gain is set to high. I cannot set lower volumes correctly via headphone as it appears to go from very quiet to very loud and its only on 10 in windows. Ive looked through the Sound blaster control panel but have not found a setting to remedy this.
Any help or tips with this problem will be appreciated.
2.Also I use TeamSpeak 3 while gaming and it appears the surround effects are being applied to this voip program making people very difficult to hear.
Is there a setting or a way to avoid this?
3. Since I have to setup my speakers to 5.1 surround for the surround effects to take while in headphone the problem arises that while im back using the desktop speakers I will have to set the speakers back to stereo to get proper sound.
Is there a way around this?
Any help with any of these issues woukd be greatly appreciated.
Thanks to all.

Originally Posted by Anarion
This card is loud as hell. I have to use line out at 10% and then use ACM at around 66% if I want to keep my hearing. Headphone out is basically unusable. What makes this annoying is that they do no allow putting card in headphone mode and output the sound through line out so I can't use headphone mode but I'm still using headphones.
You haven't found a way to change this?
The sad part is that I really like the sound it makes through my headphones, its just to ****ed loud. Its really defeating the whole porpoise of purchasing tis audio card in the first place.

MacBook Pro 13" Hard Drive and other questions

Hi there,
I've just purchased a 13" MBP which I absolutely love but have a few questions about upgrading it. I want to swap out the hard drive for a larger capacity but just want to make sure I purchase one that will fit.
I'll number the questions for ease of answering.
1. Will this hard drive be correct? I know it's a 2.5" SATA but I didn't know if the dimensions are ok for the 13" MBP.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-Scorpio-Black-WD3200BJKT-internal/dp/B001FBJJQ4
2. Will the difference between a 7200rpm 16MB cache drive and a 5400rpm 8mb cache drive be noticeable? I can get a 500gb slower speed drive for the same price and while the capacity increase would be useful, I would prefer a faster drive if it's noticeable.
Many thanks

That article I believe to be incorrect! The author never mentions which Scorpio drive....Blue or Black. The Blue does not contain a free fall sensor option as the Black is available with our without free fall sensor. The free fall sensor will interfere with the Sudden Motion Sensor (SMS) built into the Mac. SMS can be disabled but my experience first hand with the Scorpio Black in my MBP 13 was not good even after disabling the SMS and merely using the free fall sensor in the Black. If you want a 7200 RPM drive and you like West Dig get the Black without the free fall sensor. You will be much happier. I run the Black in several Windows Laptops and it streams fast then the 7200.4 which I also have in a windows laptop and the scorpio black performed better and more stable! I just dont think I personal would not use it on the MBP 13...I took mine out for it was problematic!! If you want a 500 GB go with the Fujitsu or the Hitachi...even the the Western Dig Scorpio Blue with does not have a free fall sensor. The author of that article mentioned ShockGuard that is not a Free Fall sensor and only engages durring spin up or down as well as parks when it is off. This does not sense a fall like the SMS or a built in free fall sensor. Many MBP unibody owner have used the Blue and it has been hugely successful!!! My experience which is very extensive with Seagate as of late has not been favorable. I do not like the latest generation of drives they are producing we are seeing extensive failures (higher % compared to other OEMs). Stick with those three.
If you want battery life, the Fujitsu or Hitachi are very good choices Fujitsu being a little better
For speed the WD Blue is best on synthetic tests but it is a little power hungry. I am sticking with the Fujitsu in real world test it seemed to do better than the others...H2Benchw it wasnt as good. PCmark it did very well. The Gaming, Video and other test it seemed to do well on but not as good in the h2Benchw.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/mobile-hdd-notebook,2305.html
Great info!!!

Windows File compatibility, my iPod, and other questions

After years of gripping about doing Video and Photo editing on my PC, I am considering switching to a Mac. But, given I have a heavy investment in PC hardware, I want to make sure I can leverage everything the best way possible. So...
1.) I have a 20GB clickwheel iPod...any problem using this with a Mac? Need to be reformatted or anything?
2.) Can you access ActiveX based websites without problems?
3.) I have a Windows XP machine with 4 drives in RAID format. Could I use this as a common storage network drive for both Mac and PC's at the same time (for instance, store MP3's on it, and access and play them from either the iMac and other Windows PC's without a problem?). What about jpg formatted pictures? Any nuances between PC and Mac formats? (or is jpg really just jpg on either machine...I can open up the same picture on a Mac and a PC and see the exact same picture, without major color changes, etc.).
I realize I need to reformat to FAT, but other than that, are their other problems I should know about? (I would like to use the RAID configuration to make sure I don't lose any data)
That should start for now...
Thanks - Jeff
Windows (for now) Windows XP Looking at an iMac
Windows (for now) Windows XP Looking at an iMac

1.) I have a 20GB clickwheel iPod...any problem
using this with a Mac? Need to be reformatted or
anything?
You can use it, and it will need to be reinitialised formatted for the Mac.
2.) Can you access ActiveX based websites without
problems?
No you can't access ActiveX websites with a Mac
3.) I have a Windows XP machine with 4 drives in
RAID format. Could I use this as a common storage
network drive for both Mac and PC's at the same time
(for instance, store MP3's on it, and access and play
them from either the iMac and other Windows PC's
without a problem?).
Yes
What about jpg formatted
pictures?
Yes
I realize I need to reformat to FAT,
If the computer will still be running Windows and acting as a server then no you won't need to reformat to FAT.
iFelix

Pixel Bender custom multiply blend and other questions

I am creating photo editing application on iPad and i am using Pixel Bender to calculate effects. But ive got a problem with multiply blend mode.When i run it in CPU/GPU mode, it runs fine(result looks absolutly 1:1 as from photoshop). But when i switch to Flash Player mode, it dont want to render properly. I dont get any compilation errors. Ive got also some other questions:
1.How does PB performs on iOS ?
2.If my problem is becouse of incapability of FP, is there any other solution to this ? I cant afford AS3.0 computing, becouse it is really slow even on PC.
3. Can be Pixel Bender 3D sollution to this ? If yes, when will it come out to iOS ?
4. How are filters computed in FP ? CPU or GPU ?
here, you can see the difference : http://ponozka.php5.cz/gpuMode.jpg http://ponozka.php5.cz/flashMode.jpg
Thanks
source code :
<languageVersion : 1.0;>
kernel MultiplyLayer
<   namespace : "Your Namespace";
    vendor : "Richard Molnar";
    version : 1;
>
    input image4 src;
    input image4 layer;
    output pixel4 dst;
    parameter float4 param <
        minValue:float4(0.0,0.0,0.0,0.0);
        maxValue:float4(1.0,1.0,1.0,1.0);
        defaultValue:float4(1.0,1.0,1.0,1.0);
    >;
    void
    evaluatePixel()
        pixel4 pix;
        pixel4 pix2;
        pix = sampleNearest(src,outCoord());
        pix2 = sampleNearest(layer,outCoord());
        dst.r = pix.r - pix.r * (1.0-(pix2.r))*param.r*pix2.a*param.a;
        dst.g = pix.g- pix.g * (1.0-(pix2.g))*param.g*pix2.a*param.a;
        dst.b = pix.b -pix.b * (1.0-(pix2.b))*param.b*pix2.a*param.a;
        dst.a = 1.0;

Ok, so i already know, that CPU/GPU and flash are giving different results. So lets have a situation, where you need to display transparent image without transparency. On GPU/CPU, you will need only this :
dst.r = src.r;
dst.g = src.g;
dst.b = src.b;
dst.a = 1.0;
but for flash, you will need this :
dst.r = (1.0/src.a)*src.r;
dst.g = (1.0/src.a)*src.g;
dst.b = (1.0/src.a)*src.b;
dst.a = 1.0;
First kernel on GPU will show the exact same result as second kernel on flash. But the question remains : is it bug ?

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