Express versus Extreme for network extension and computer connection?

I have an older Mac Pro that I have moved to a location that does not have a convenient wired connection to our home network. We do have one Airport Extreme box on the system, so I was thinking that I could kill two birds with one stone and purchase a second box to not only give the Mac Pro a wireless connection, but also to extend the network.
Will either the Airport Extreme or the Airport Express work equally well for this purpose?

Will either the Airport Extreme or the Airport Express work equally well for this purpose?
Yes, either will work.

Similar Messages

Express extending Extreme's Network, Xbox Live not connecting.

Hey Everyone!
I have an Airport Express (n version) extending my Airport Extreme's (n version) wifi successfully. My Xbox is connected to my Express via ethernet. My Xbox was able to successfully download a system update, but fails when attempting to update an Xbox Live update. I checked Microsoft's website to make sure Xbox Live was running properly, which it is. My network test on the Xbox tells me that it can connect to the Network, it can connect to the internet, but CANNOT connect to Xbox Live. My ip address does start with 10.0.x.xx, I'm wondering if that is part of the issue? I have never had any issue downloading things on the internet via my laptop. My other idea is that I haven't updated my Xbox in about 6 months, so maybe there's just a large amount of updates and it's receiving a bug of some sort? Can someone help me out here?
-Nate

First, have you had an opportunity to try some of the connectivity troubleshooting options provided by Microsoft for Xbox LIVE? For example, either Xbox LIVE Connection Problems or Xbox LIVE Connection Solution (aka Connection Wizard)? If so, what was the exact error(s) that either were reporting?
Typically, when your console is able to access the Internet, but not to Xbox LIVE, the issue can be one of at least three things: 1) ICMP, 2) NAT, or 3) MTU errors. Were any of these reported when you ran the connectivity tests?

Hi, I'm thinking of buying the Airport Express or Extreme for my school dormitory, would i need to plug them into the already existing school internet via LAN cable or do the products just work by themselves?

Hi, I'm thinking of buying the Airport Express or Extreme for my school dormitory, would i need to plug them into the already existing school internet via LAN cable or do the products just work by themselves?

Welcome to Apple Support Communities
AirPort stations aren't modems, so they have to be connected to the modem you are already using. The AirPort Extreme and Express have a WAN port, where you have to plug an Ethernet cable that has to be connected to the modem.
After doing this, you can set up the AirPort station by using AirPort Utility. If you have Windows, download AirPort Utility from the Apple website > http://support.apple.com/kb/dl1547

Network locations and Airport connection

I've just installed Leopard on my MacBook Pro (late 2008) and did all the software updates (including AirPort Extreme Update 2008-004 which - as I found out too late - seems to cause a lot of problems).
Network System Preferences show funny beaviour: Every time I try to switch off AirPort connection for a new network location the network location will disappear completely and settings will switch back to the last active network location. So it is impossible to create a network location with AirPort inactive.
Apart from that, my System does not connect to my AirPort Base Station (Dual Ethernet, 802.11b) wireless LAN (not public, WEP-encrypted, MAC address filter). My other Macs (OS X 10.4 Tiger) connect to the AirPort wireless LAN without any problems. (I double-checked all the settings of course.)
Has anybody had similar problems? Thanks for your help.

Re: network locations and Airport connection
Posted: 06-Nov-2008 09:07
Hi: located in england bought a new macbook pro upgraded leopard to 10.5.5 with that upgrade that got pulled very quickly.
I also have an old g4 with 10.4.11
The g4 works perfectly in recognizing the airport network and is up and running in no time. no problems.. the macbookpro with leopard has problems recognizing and logging in tothe the same router. it needs help or I just i there waiting. there is no set way of getting it back to working. but I tend to go into network preferences and it says airport logged on but no connection. the g4 is happy and set up. I then turn off airport and turn it on. eventually I am back and running just fine but do not go to sleep or close the machine cheers
ps. I work from locations with different routers and different isp's same problems......
therefore it must leopard...(or the airport card in the machine)

I am unable to update either iTunes or iPhone or iPad or ipad2. After timing out I am instructed to check network setting and ensure connection is active. Connection is ok, all other downloads work ok as does iTunes and sync. Any suggestions?

I am unable to update software for iTunes, iPhone, iPad, or iPad 2. Installation times out and recommends I check network settings and the connection is active. It is There are no problems with other downloads/installs. iTunes, sync and devices work fine otherwise. Any suggestions?

Could you post your diagnostics for us please?
In iTunes, go "Help > Run Diagnostics". Uncheck the boxes other than Network connectivity tests, as per the following screenshot:
... and click "Next".
When you get through to the final screen:
... click the "Copy to Clipboard" button and paste the diagnostics into a reply here.

The connection to our airport express says it has time out and lost connection?

the connecton to airport express say it has timed out and lost connection. can not hear music from airport express speakers. only the computer

What is your overall network configuration with the AirPort Express? That is, is the Express configured to join a wireless network provided by another router or is it your main router? If it is joining another router, what is the make & model of this router? Which model of the Express do you have? Finally, if you have another router, where is the Express located related to this router? Same room, different room, different floor?

Airport express or extreme for home wireless network

My Mac Pro is hooked up to my internet upstairs. I would like to hook-up my sony bravia to the internet through a wireless bridge. Do I need the express or extreme? My PS3 is already hooked up to my mac pro through internet sharing. What is the best way to set up an internet connection for my tv and PS3?

joek1 wrote:
My Mac Pro is hooked up to my internet upstairs. I would like to hook-up my sony bravia to the internet through a wireless bridge. Do I need the express or extreme? My PS3 is already hooked up to my mac pro through internet sharing. What is the best way to set up an internet connection for my tv and PS3?
an airport extreme base station has 3 LAN ports ...

Article to setup Extreme for N only and optimize settings?!?!

I just replaced an older b/g AIrport Extreme with a newer dual band N version of Airport Extreme. I also replaced my Express b/g with an N version as well. I have the Extreme connected to my Verizon FIOS modem by ethernet and manually configured to "bridge" mode with the goal of maximizing the FIOS speed that can be obtained (versus extending the FIOS wireless network from the Verizon router). I am totally confused about what steps to take to ensure that my new "bridged" network with the Extreme and, subsequently, the Express, only use N and not a/b/g WiFi for the network. I have Airport Utility v5.5. Is there an article or another post that goes through this step by step... for dummies I have found a bunch of posts that address this general topic, but the feedback provided to the OP is usually assuming I know some piece of info that I just don't actually know... one step ahead of me. Thanks for any guidance or feedback to point me in the right direction!

You mentioned in your post that you had manually configured the AirPort Extreme (AEBS) to act as a “bridge” for your Fios router, so I assume that you have likely already configured some other aspects of the AEBS at this time, so I will not go into a lot of detail on some items that are normally fairly intuitive.
If you have not already installed the software that came on the CD with your AEBS, it would be a good idea to do so as some of the most recent dual band products are using a version of AirPort Utility that is not yet available for download from Apple’s site and its also likely that you have a more recent version of the firmware for the AEBS which is also not available for download.
In general, I think it helps most users to temporarily connect an ethernet cable from their computer to one of the LAN <-> ports on the AEBS to configure the device rather than trying to use wireless. So, if you are having difficulty with wireless in trying to configure the AEBS, use the ethernet option.
Speaking of ethernet, you mentioned that you wanted the best performance possible for your network and that would start with the ethernet cables. Make sure they are either CAT5e or CAT6 cables to take advantage of the Gigabit speeds that the AEBS is capable of handling.
Open Airport Utility and click Manual Setup
Click the Base Station tab below the row of icons to enter a name for your device and a device password along with time and time zone settings
Next, click the Wireless tab next to the Base Station tab to display the wireless settings page
Wireless Mode would be Create a wireless network
Wireless Network Name is your choice
Put a check mark in the box next to Allow this network to be extended
Radio Mode should be 802.11n only 5 GHz to provide the fastest speed possible.
You may need to hold down the “option” key on your computer while you click on the selection box to display all the available choices. If you later find that the 5 GHz setting does not penetrate as well as hoped, you will need to return to this area to change the setting to 802.11n only 2.4 GHz
Channel…hold down the option key again when you click on this box. Select one of the higher numbered channels.
Wireless Security would be WPA2 Personal
Wireless Password is your choice
Click the Wireless Options button and make sure there is a check mark next to Use Wide Channels and click Done
Click the Internet icon in the row of icons and check the Connection Sharing setting at the bottom. It should be set to “Off (Bridge Mode)”
Click Update at the lower right and the AEBS will restart in 20-30 seconds and the light should turn green.
Now, take your Macbook and test to make sure that you can get a good internet connection near the AEBS. If so, move your Macbook to the room and position it as close as possible to the location where the AirPort Express (AX) will be installed and check to make sure that you get a good internet connection.
Hold down the “option” key on your computer while you click on the fan shaped Airport icon at the top of your screen. Look for the Transmit Rate number and jot that down for future reference. Move your Macbook around to other locations between the AEBS and the AX location and you will see that the Transmit Rate changes. It will be higher near the AEBS and will fall off as you move away from the AEBS.
Also, please download Air Radar and use the Scan feature at the lower right of the window to get a different look at the signal strength of your AEBS network. Air Radar is not free, but there is a 15 day trial period. Look at the Fios network as well in terms of signal strength where the AX will be located.
You can also use Air Radar to locate any other visible wireless networks in the area to help identify them in case you experience wireless interference issues.
At the tentative AX location,
What is the Transmit Rate that you see?
How strong is the signal from the AEBS in terms of percentage using Air Radar?
How strong is the signal from the Fios router in terms of percentage using Air Radar?
If you connect your Macbook to the Fios network, can you get a Transmit Rate number for that?
Please post back on your results and any questions you have to this point and we’ll decide how best to tackle the “extend” challenge. There will likely be some compromise choices to be made on this next step.

Using an aiport express + airport extreme for printing.

I have an airport extreme to which I connect a lexmark color laser printer. Everything works well. I just moved and am now using DSL. There is no phone jack in the room where I want to put my printer. Can I use the airport extreme for my wireless internet through my dsl phone line and then use an airport express to hook up my printer and print wirelessly? Can I use a second airport express for a second printer which will go in yet a different place?

Another option would be to setup the Express units as clients on your Airport network especially if you don't need to extend your network.
You will still be able to print, but avoid the bandwidth hit that using WDS (extending the network) has.
iFelix

Old Express, new Extreme, two networks simultaneously?

I have 2 Mac Pros and one iMac. All of them are connected to my Airport Extreme (802.11n) network.
My iMac has all my music in the iTunes library (280 GB!), sits right beside my stereo and is connected to it via a regular cinch cable connected to the Headphone jack of the iMac.
Unfortunately I have to move the iMac to the other side of the room, no more cable. I could buy an Airport Express, connect that to the stereo and feed it wirelessly from the iMac.
However: I already have an Airport Express, unfortunately an older one (802.11 g), and I understand connecting it to my network will slow it down. Not an option.
Is there a way to keep the Airport Extreme as a feed for all three Macs for internet use, sharing files, etc. and additionally use the Airport Express as a wireless feed from the iMac to my Stereo? Like a second wireless network?
I would be willing to change to a different network every time I switch from music to internet, but I was told that what I want is principally impossible.
Is it really?

The g offers “up to” 54 Mbps and the n offers “over” 100 Mbps. In daily life the data rates are different (I heard of about 25 Mbps for a “g” and 140 Mbps for a “n”).
But, of course, I never measured the real speeds. This is what I meant by my words “hard numbers”.
My download speed (Cox Cable) I measured by Cox’s own test (http://test.lvcm.com) at 18 Mbps average.
So I absolutely agree with you: An “n” network would probably be a waste for internet surfing unless I upgrade my provider’s speed.
We have, however, some data transfer between our Macs over the “n” net: One of our Macs is used as a “Master” and all documents are saved on that one. If someone wants to access or change that document from the other Macs he works on it on the Master-Mac and leaves it there. Additionally we make a backup of the Master via Time Machine.
Therefore I would hesitate to reduce my “n-net” speed.
Thank you so much for your info and help.
I am from Germany (living in the “former colonies” now). Back in Hamburg, Germany I was fortunate to use for some weeks a connection via a fiberoptic cable with a copper cable for the last 500 feet that reached 300 Mbps(!), but first the company charged 146.93 $ per month, and second my Airport did not support that speed.
It was nice, however, to see the average 140 Mbps work. Brought most providers to their knees…

What is the best product for network mapping and monitoring? I am an inexperienced user). Mac 10.9.2 laptop

I have lots of questions, but the gist is that I want to know the best product, preferably from the app store, that I can use for network mapping mapping and monitoring.
I want to get their mac address or other police trackable etc info so I can use my computer safely.
I am also being cyberbullied.
I try just using ethernet but still get intruded on, for instance, messages that "other devices are using my ip address". The only other device I own is an iPod that I keep sahut off plus wifi turned off then.
(NOTE: You can skip the rest of this message if you want. It regards hacking attempts etc, a little out of the scope of discussion, perhaps).
Also a home intrusion where computer was thoroughly hacked with router(s) set up "very very close to me," according to Apple.
Also, hackers get into my Facebook and gmail and yahoo mail, really, no matter what I try to do on my computer and how many times I change passwords it does no good.
Also, The ip addresses for google and the one in syste preferences and the one looking up my ip address on ip chicken always gets three different results.
More worrisome it that hackers got into my Wells Fargo account a week after the intrusion even though I changed all account #'s and pw plus notified bank. They also broke into paypal using my new account numbers.
Also, stuff like Facetime pops up on my computer without my clicking on it even though I'm using ethernet to connect. I've given up on Time Capsule because I'm told that's how the hackers hacked my computer so thoroughly duriung the intrusion.
Thanks.

Aubry,
why don't you send your sequences straight to Compressor first, encode your movies as MPEG 2 and AC3 audio and import all assets in DVD studio PRO?
G.

Best Practices for Using Photoshop (and Computing in General)

I've been seeing some threads that lead me to realize that not everyone knows the best practices for doing Photoshop on a computer, and in doing conscientious computing in general. I thought it might be a good idea for those of us with some exprience to contribute and discuss best practices for making the Photoshop and computing experience more reliable and enjoyable.
It'd be great if everyone would contribute their ideas, and especially their personal experience.
Here are some of my thoughts on data integrity (this shouldn't be the only subject of this thread):
Consider paying more for good hardware. Computers have almost become commodities, and price shopping abounds, but there are some areas where spending a few dollars more can be beneficial. For example, the difference in price between a top-of-the-line high performance enterprise class hard drive and the cheapest model around with, say, a 1 TB capacity is less than a hundred bucks! Disk drives do fail! They're not all created equal. What would it cost you in aggravation and time to lose your data? Imagine it happening at the worst possible time, because that's exactly when failures occur.
Use an Uninterruptable Power Supply (UPS). Unexpected power outages are TERRIBLE for both computer software and hardware. Lost files and burned out hardware are a possibility. A UPS that will power the computer and monitor can be found at the local high tech store and doesn't cost much. The modern ones will even communicate with the computer via USB to perform an orderly shutdown if the power failure goes on too long for the batteries to keep going. Again, how much is it worth to you to have a computer outage and loss of data?
Work locally, copy files elsewhere. Photoshop likes to be run on files on the local hard drive(s). If you are working in an environment where you have networking, rather than opening a file right off the network, then saving it back there, consider copying the file to your local hard drive then working on it there. This way an unexpected network outage or error won't cause you to lose work.
Never save over your original files. You may have a library of original images you have captured with your camera or created. Sometimes these are in formats that can be re-saved. If you're going to work on one of those files (e.g., to prepare it for some use, such as printing), and it's a file type that can be overwritten (e.g., JPEG), as soon as you open the file save the document in another location, e.g., in Photoshop .psd format.
Save your master files in several places. While you are working in Photoshop, especially if you've done a lot of work on one document, remember to save your work regularly, and you may want to save it in several different places (or copy the file after you have saved it to a backup folder, or save it in a version management system). Things can go wrong and it's nice to be able to go back to a prior saved version without losing too much work.
Make Backups. Back up your computer files, including your Photoshop work, ideally to external media. Windows now ships with a quite good backup system, and external USB drives with surprisingly high capacity (e.g., Western Digital MyBook) are very inexpensive. The external drives aren't that fast, but a backup you've set up to run late at night can finish by morning, and if/when you have a failure or loss of data. And if you're really concerned with backup integrity, you can unplug an external drive and take it to another location.
This stuff is kind of "motherhood and apple pie" but it's worth getting the word out I think.
Your ideas?
-Noel

APC Back-UPS XS 1300. $169.99 at Best Buy.
Our power outages here are usually only a few seconds; this should give my server about 20 or 25 minutes run-time.
I'm setting up the PowerChute software now to shut down the computer when 5 minutes of power is left. The load with the monitor sleeping is 171 watts.
This has surge protection and other nice features as well.
-Noel

Ideas for lastest chipsets and computing hardware

i have many ideas for silicone based builds and i would like input from everyone if you wish.
discrete graphics are great and i believe that both Intel and AMD have made great recent leaps in this architecture and i give them both respect.
i believe low cas is the way to go for memory to assist in optimal multi-core usage and rendering capability.
3-d technology looks amazing to me although i have yet to try it out myself as well as a lot of the newest touch screens.
i would like to see 4-8 system threads with high physics per thread and as low of frequency as possible for less power draw after all if we are going to be innovative we should be energy efficient at the same time.
my point of view is from a gamers and over clocking perspective with little understanding of the hard work that goes into the programming and server end of the computing industry.

In before Mike!
Unfortunately your post is off topic here, in the TechNet Site Feedback forum, because it is not Feedback about the TechNet Website or Subscription. This is a standard response I’ve written up in advance to help many people (thousands, really.)
who post their question in this forum in error, but please don’t ignore it. The links I share below I’ve collected to help you get right where you need to go with your issue.
For technical issues with Microsoft products that you would run into as an
end user of those products, one great source of info and help is
http://answers.microsoft.com, which has sections for Windows, Hotmail, Office, IE, and other products. Office related forums are also here:
http://office.microsoft.com/en-us/support/contact-us-FX103894077.aspx
For Technical issues with Microsoft products that you might have as an
IT professional (like technical installation issues, or other IT issues), you should head to the TechNet Discussion forums at
http://social.technet.microsoft.com/forums/en-us, and search for your product name.
For issues with products you might have as a Developer (like how to talk to APIs, what version of software do what, or other developer issues), you should head to the MSDN discussion forums at
http://social.msdn.microsoft.com/forums/en-us, and search for your product or issue.
If you’re asking a question particularly about one of the Microsoft Dynamics products, a great place to start is here:
http://community.dynamics.com/
If you really think your issue is related to the subscription or the TechNet Website, and I screwed up, I apologize! Please repost your question to the discussion forum and include much more detail about your problem, that could include screenshots
of the issue (do not include subscription information or product keys in your screenshots!), and/or links to the problem you’re seeing.
If you really had no idea where to post this question but you still posted it here, you still shouldn’t have because we have a forum just for you! It’s called the Where is the forum for…? forum and it’s here:
http://social.msdn.microsoft.com/forums/en-us/whatforum/
Moving to off topic.
Thanks, Mike
MSDN and TechNet Subscriptions Support

Best Export Settings for DVD burning and Computer viewing

Hello,
I am trying to export a 1 hour video that I need to be compatible with standard DVD players as well as viewable on any computer.
Original footage was shot with a Canon 5d Mark ii in 24fps.
I have done all of my editing in Premiere Pro CS6. From there, I exported a high quality file to bring into Media Encoder (for trials of best output). My master file from Premiere was exported with the Preset MPEG2. The only thing I changed in the preset was VBR from 1 pass to 2 pass.. This gave me a 6.2 GB file.
I then brought that file into Media Encoder where I have tried the following presets:
MPEG2-DVD - Match Source Attributes
MPEG2-DVD - NTSC 23.976fps Widescreen High Quality
MPEG2 - HDTV 720p 23.976 High Quality
MPEG2 - NTSC DV High Quality
These settings have encountered various issues.. some have significant banding, but most importantly, none of them will play on my DVD player when I burn them to a disc.
The discs I am using are Sony DVD-RW with a 4.7GB capacity.
Where am I going wrong here? From what I've read, the format needs to be MPEG2 to be viewed on DVD... Sorry if I sound ignorant! This stuff is tricky..

First off, don't export your timeline and then take the result to AME to re-encode, this is compressing your video twice and degrading quality (not to mention takes extra time and hard drive space). Always export direct from Premiere to Media Encoder. If you must use an "intermediate" file as part of your workflow, perhaps to archive a completed video that might later be exported to other formats, then use a lossless codec such as UT or Lagarith (free downloads).
For DVDs, you MUST use "MPEG-2 DVD". Other forms of MPEG-2 are not appropriate, as the official DVD specification requires that the MPEG-2 file has certain attributes. Not recommended to use "Match Source" for ANY export, just choose an appropriate setting as needed.
This should be correct for your application - MPEG-2 DVD > NTSC 23.976fps Widescreen High Quality
If you want to encode a DVD file over 1 hour in length, then you will need to adjust the encoding bitrate so the resulting file will fit the disc. Rule of thumb is 560/minutes = bitrate, but you might round down the result a bit to allow for menu overhead and such, depending.
Once you export the "MPEG-2 DVD" file, you can NOT simply burn that file to DVD media. That is only creating a DATA disc and it will not be playable in a DVD player (though a computer or PS3/PS4 may work since they can play most media files). To make a DVD that works in all DVD players (and meets the spec), it MUST be "authored" in a program like Adobe Encore. This compiles your content and menus and all that and then writes the result to the disc in certain way so that DVD players can read the disc. If you open any DVD on your computer, you will see a folder called "VIDEO_TS" and inside that there are .vob files and others. That is a proper DVD. And once you have a proper DVD, you can't simply copy the VIDEO_TS to another disc (as DATA), you must tell the burning software to create as a "VIDEO DVD" and not DATA, or it again won't be readable in a DVD player. Very picky spec, sorry.
When using AME to export MPEG-2 DVD, it will create two files, audio and video (.m2v and .wav), you will then Import both of those into Encore together. Note that you CAN import other formats into Encore, such as .avi but Encore will then transcode that to the correct MPEG-2 format anyway, so best that you take charge and create the right media in the first place in AME before you get to Encore.
EDIT: In AME, any time that your source is higher resolution than the destination, such as HD to DVD, you can check the "Max Render Quality" button in AME to provide the best downscale quality.
EDIT 2: I see you're using DVD-RW media. That is fine for experimenting, but for delivery to clients always use good quality DVD-R or DVD+R media. DVD-RW may not have the best compatibility with players and costs more anyways. DVDs are so cheap now that I just proof to DVD-R and toss the bad ones, up to you.
Thanks
Jeff Pulera
Safe Harbor Computers

Firewall: allow for AD Group AND computer name

I am not sure if there is a more specific forum for windows server 2012 R2 datacenter firewall rules; if there is, then I am thankful for a pointer.
We have to define firewall rules that allow connections to certain ports only if: the user is member of an AD group AND the connection attempt originates from a computer in a list of allowed machines. The AND operator is where I fail to define the rule;
I can allow AD Group abc to access the ports and I can allow machines x, y and z to access the ports, but I don't know a way to allow connection only if both rules are met: e.g. the user is in AD group abc and uses machine y.
Is this doable? We would also consider third party tools if that is required, business wants the rule (no matter our arguments against it, e.g. the additional effort to maintain the list of computers).
Thanks in advance for any hints,
Tim

Hi Tim,
Windows Firewall is a built-in, host-based, stateful firewall therefore it can not control user access policy, may you can use TMG as internal firewall to realize that.
The related article:
How to configure Forefront TMG to block AD users from accessing internal resources
http://blogs.technet.com/b/edgeaccessblog/archive/2010/01/19/how-to-configure-forefront-tmg-to-block-ad-users-from-accessing-internal-resources.aspx
I’m glad to be of help to you!
Please remember to mark the replies as answers if they help and unmark them if they provide no help. If you have feedback for TechNet Support, contact [email protected]

Express versus Extreme for network extension and computer connection?

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