External iSight not working on iMac, works on Macbook despite same software

Hello!
I have an External iSight that when I plug into my Macbook (running latest Mac OS) works just fine with iChat AND Adobe Flash Webchats...
However, when I plug it into my new iMac, the green light will turn on, but the it doesn't show on ANY applications that there is an External iSight available.
The only difference is that I am connecting the iSight with an 4 to 8 pin adapter: When I plug it in, it acts the same as it does with the MacBook--the green light turns on, it makes a sound, and is ready for usage. However, I can't get it to work with any programs on my iMac.
My PRIMARY concern, is I need it to work with Adobe Flash Webchats. Help!

Hello, macboyme
Consider the following in any order you find relevant for your system:
(0) You write that you are using a 4pin to 8pin adapter. However, I think you mean 6pin to 9pin adapter.
External iSight is a Firewire device that uses a 6pin Firewire 400 connector. 
Newer Macs have only 9pin Firewire 800 connectors, so it is common to use 6pin to 9pin adapters similar to the one I normally use:
  http://eshop.macsales.com/item/Newer%20Technology/FIR1369AD/
The only 8 pin cables and adapters I could find were USB. They won't work on Firewire devices.
4pin Firewire is a mini connection that I have only seen in cameras. If you really are using a 4 and/or 8 pin cable, I suggest you try a different Firewire adapter method.
My suggestions below are based on using a 6pin to 9pin adapter like that mentioned above or cable like this one I have also successfully used:
  http://store.apple.com/us/product/TP320LL/A
(1) Test in another User Account on your iMac. Be sure to also consider all the other suggestions for external iSight from:
  http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2090
You do not say which of your Macs has only FW800 ports that require a Firewire adapter. To remove as many variables as possible, test the same cables and Firewire 400-800 adapter on both Macs if it is possible to do so. If you only use the adapter on one Mac, it is possible that the adapter is the cause of your trouble. If one of your Macs has only FW400 and the other has only FW800, test with a different adapter or use a 6pin-9pin cable to test both your Firewire iSight. Also, test another Firewire 400 device to eliminate the possibility that your problem is caused by one of your connections.
(2) For additional ideas on how to test external iSight, consider the additional suggestions here:
  http://www.ralphjohns.co.uk/EZJim/EZJimpage4.html
Unless the software and connected peripherals are EXACTLY the same on both your iMac and your MacBook, be sure to consider possible hardware or software conflicts with something else installed in or connected to your iMac. A link to more info about conflicts is included in the "How to test..." page.
(3) If you can rule out both possible conflicts and connection problems in the iMac, the problem must be either in your iMac's user account or in the system software used to operate your external iSight.
You can rule out problems with the user account by testing in several different accounts.
If the problem is EXACTLY the same in any user account you test on your iMac, your system software is suspect. Backup all your important files, repair permissions, and apply the 10.6.4 Combo Update:
  http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1048
Follow the restart that completes the Combo Update with another permissions repair. Then test iSight again.
(4) Once your external iSight works correctly with your iMac's QuickTimeX, iChat, etc., it will work as well with Flash video websites as it does when you are running it from your MacBook.
EZ Jim
Mac Pro Quad Core (Early 2009) 2.93Ghz w/Mac OS X (10.6.4)  MacBook Pro (13 inch, Mid 2009) 2.26GHz (10.6.4)
LED Cinema Display  G4 PowerBook  1.67GHz (10.4.11)  iBookSE 366MHz (10.3.9)  External iSight

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    Yup, that is WHY you never buy WD external HD, they cheap out and save 50 cents by making the controller board and SATA bridge card the same unit
    Toshiba is now doing the same thing, avoid them as well
    Purchase Seagate and Hitachi to avoid that (Hitachi are the best ext. USB drives without doubt)
    see here all about it:
    Your dead external hard drive is likely fine! Great hope for your 'faulty' external HD
    There is a way, any way to put this drive again working, in another drive case or whatever?
    ONLY if you had another identical HD you could swap the controller boards.
    . It is my time machine backup drive, so I am kind of upset...
    You never should have let yourself be in the position of having a single external DATA copy, ever
    hard drives are way way too cheap to let that happen.
    i bought this one january/2013 in LA. How old are they?!?! gosh...
    That doesnt mean anything
    Hard Drive Warning (all makes and models)
    Ironically but logical, new hard drives are far more fragile than one that has been working for several months or a couple years. So beware in your thinking that a new hard drive translates into “extremely reliable”!
    Hard drives suffer from high rates of what has been termed "infant mortality". Essentially this means new drives have their highest likelihood of failing in the first few months of usage. This is because of very minor manufacturing defects or HD platter balancing, or head and armature geometry being less than perfect; and this is not immediately obvious and can quickly manifest itself once the drive is put to work.
    Hard drives that survive the first few months of use without failing are likely to remain healthy for a number of years.
    Generally HD are highly prone to death or corruption for a few months, then work fine for a few years, then spike in mortality starting at 3-4 years and certainly should be considered end-of-life at 5-7+ years even if still working well. Drives written to once and stored away have the highest risk of data corruption due to not being read/written to on a regular basis. Rotate older working HD into low-risk use.
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    Given the second law of thermodynamics, any and all current mfg. HD will, under perfect storage conditions tend themselves to depolarization and a point will be reached, even if the HD mechanism is perfect, that the ferromagnetic read/write surface of the platter inside the HD will entropy to the point of no viable return for data extraction. HD life varies, but barring mechanical failure, 3-8 years typically.
    Hard drive failure and handling
    The air cushion of air between the platter surface and the head is microscopic, as small as 3 nanometers, meaning bumps, jarring while in operation can cause head crash, scraping off magnetic particles causing internal havoc to the write surface and throwing particles thru the hard drive.
    Hard drives are fragile in general, regardless, ... in specific while running hard drives are extremely fragile.
    PDF: Bare hard drive handling generic instructions
    hard drive moving parts
    Some of the common reasons for hard drives to fail:
    Infant mortality (due to mfg. defect / build tolerances)
    Bad parking   (head impact)
    Sudden impact   (hard drive jarred during operation, heads can bounce)
    Electrical surge   (fries the controller board, possibly also causing heads to write the wrong data)
    Bearing / Motor failure   (spindle bearings or motors wear during any and all use, eventually leading to HD failure)
    Board failure   (controller board failure on bottom of HD)
    Bad Sectors   (magnetic areas of the platter may become faulty)
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