Fading a Photo

How to fade a portion of a photo in photoshop elements 11?

If you do you editing on a selection you might want to feather the selection first. Here I selected a circle, inverted the selection, and applied a Levels adjustment to lighten the background.
Here I feathered the selection 35 px before the adjustment.

Similar Messages

HT204022 why delete button is faded on photo stream

Why cant i delete my old photos on my new ipad. The delete button doesn't light up for the function even after ticking my unwanted photos.

Just recently upgraded to IOS 7.
Clicked photo app
went to photo stream album (there is an <Album button on top left then top right you can choose Select Bottom has a Photo's icon and and album icon) no trash icon
Hit select - pick the photos I want deleted.
Only available courses of action now are to cancel top right
or send by message, mail, twitter etc bottom left
or Add to bottom right
In selecting add to there is no trash available only other albums or a new album.

Photos come out real dark when printed on various printers

Im really unsure if this is an Indesign problem or not but most everything I do is created in InDesign along with Photoshop, Acrobat, and other Adobe products. Im just out of ideas on what the problems could be so thought I would take a crack at Adobe being the problem? I just dont know!
When I print things out on our high end Xerox color printer, things tend to come out more on the darker side. Its mostly noticable with photographs but it can also be seen in general solid colors also. I generally make the printer print 85% lighter from its settings and things will usually come out acceptable.
When I send files to out digital plate maker, usually as black/grayscale, the photographs will always come out real dark. For this, I have to over compensate by editing each photo individually so they no longer look normal on my screen, but overly faded just so it will look properly on our DPM.
This is something I have been dealing with for several years and though its basically a part of life now, I still cant stand it! All drivers, patches, and firmware is updated, printer color is calibrated, even paid techs to figure it out...nothing! For both our standard black and white printers, these files usually print out ok, all photos look just as good as they do on screen.
Well we just got a new large color plotter machine for printing large banners and signs. I dont operate it but the one who does seem to know his stuff. He said his program will only work with EPS files. I had created a press quality PDF from InDesign that I then converted to EPS as well as creating an EPS directly from InDesign. All files looked nice and bright on both my screen as well as his. On his first sample printout on the plotter, the images came out dark!!!!! Why???? We made new files where again, I overcompensated by fading the photos out bigtime to where they look horrible on screen but printed out mostly ok on the machine.
This cant be the normal way things are done, Is this an InDesign problem or what??? Any suggestions would be great because we are out of ideas!

I believe Xerox ships the EyeOne spectrohotometer. The companion software for that is Eye-One Match, which gets installed on your computer. I don't know if that's included. If it is, the software will lead you through adjusting the monitor and will then record a profile and associate it with the monitor. Adobe apps will use that profile to display color on screen. Each monitor needs to be profiled -- generic profiles shipped on the install disk for the monitor are useless in a color critical workflow, they match some hypothetical average monitor, or one that was pulled off the assembly line long before yours was built, and every monitor is unique in how it displays a give set of color numbers.
There should be some icc profiles on the support disks for the printers. These are the output profiles you need to target in ID, or you need to output as a standard RGB profile like Adobe RGB and let the RIP do the conversion internally to the Xerox color space.
This is a pretty complex thing to explain in detail here. You should read the Color Management section of the help files, any documentation that came with the Fiery, and I highly recommend Real World Color Management by Olav Kvern and David Blatner which is easy to read without a lot of technical jargon, and clearly explains both the theory and practice of color management in the real world (though it's now a few years old).

FeedBack...

Hello,
here is my feedback after using Flash Catalyst for 4-5 days, on 2 projects, I hope it will help...
Some points are related to the usability, oters are questions, and others are bugs,... (I'm on PC, with Windows Vista)
The current version is really CPU & memory intensive, I think you know it :-)
I really like the Heads-up display !!!
When I import a SWF File that contains symbols (with linkage ID) I don't have these symbols in the library, so if I want to create a button skin for example, I can't use the different symbols from the swf, I need to declare it later in MXML in Flex 4 ...
Also about the swf, I often use the Skin extension for Flash CS3 with Flex 3, the states management is really nice (define states & transition in the Flash IDE) Do you plan to keep it for Flash CS4 & Gumbo ? Is it already possible ?
In the documentation pdf file I have seen that we can select the type of project to create, either Flash Player or Adobe AIR But I can't find it in the beta release ...
It could be nice to add the possibility to organize the library : create folder, sort by name, ... For example : When using package library, it could be nice to be able to group each library in a corresponding folder and not to have everything mixed together ...
I have imported a psd file, I want to add a layer, but I can't do it without adding a folder. If I drag from the library, or if I copy and paste a new layer is created, but it's a strange behaviour in comparison with Flash, Photoshop, ... no ?
Is it possible to define the 9 Slice Scaling guides ? It could be really usefull I think... It could also optimize/minimize the size of the final swf...
Is it possible to work in related-size (%) and not always in fixed size ? I mean, to be able to create a kind-of fullscreen prototype in catalyst with % width & height ...
I've removed a custom component (data list) from the stage, but I hadn't yet link the repeated item, it was not used in my project anymore but I had an error when compiling : "there is an error with the component ..." it was because it was present in the library, so I had to go in Source mode to remove the mxml component manually ...
My mouse Wheel doesn't work to scroll the layer list, or the library list.
Add the number of time an item is used in the project in the library ? So it's easier to clean the library ?
If I want to copy the name of an item in the library by double-clicking on the object and pressing ctrl-c, a strange caracter is displayed
It could be nice to have the hand to move the stage like in another adobe products, I'm used to press the space bar and drag the stage :-)
In the transition Timeline, it could be helpfull to be able to select multiple layer to extend their size to change the length of a transition, like in the Flash IDE.
A crash happened, when I have restarted Catalyst, it asked me to recover my last project, then I tryed to save it again, and it proposed me "null.fxp"for the project name, I renamed it, then it crashed again ...
When I convert a group of layer to a custom component, it could be nice to automatically select the new custom component in the library. For example : if I want to rename it, I can't do it from the layer pannel, so I need to search into the library panel to rename it.
If I right-click on a custom component and select convert to illustration, is it possible to remove the old custom component from the library ? If, for example I made a mistake while doing a custom component, and I want to restart it from scrach, I can't use the same name because the previous one is always in the library ...
When I create a custom TextInput, it could be nice to have other states like focusIn, ... and to be able to remove the default halo, I know I can do the Focus In state by embeddeing the TextInput in a custom component, but it always have the default halo so it's not really usefull :-)
When I double click on an item in the library it could be nice to open it on the stage, like in the Flash IDE.
If I edit a custom button on the stage, I can't change it's layer name, it's in grey, I can always double click on it and change the name but it's not saved, I have to go back on the stage and then update the layer name.
Thanks for the good work !
niko

This is awesome! I think you're the first person to release an app based on Catalyst!
One huge list of feedback deserves another, so here's my (perhaps obvious) feedback, from someone who would really like to use BandGeek:
1. Forced fullscreen mode feels very weird on the Mac.
2. BandGeek won't let me search while another search is in progress. This is annoying - can't it just cancel the existing search? It's especially annoying because BandGeek starts with a random artist, and I have to wait for that to load before I can continue.
3. The experience feels discombobulated. Some things that might help:
Navigation: a breadcrumb bar, back/forward controls, or even a URL bar (that I could use to bookmark a BandGeek page or send it to a friend) would make it feel more continuous.
Optionally playing music continuously - maybe by piping in a Pandora or LastFM station for the current artist?
More pictures. When I search for "Michael Jackson", I get one photo of him, a huge block of text, and a huger white screen with some navigation boxes in it. Why not put pictures or icons in the navigation boxes? Why not put faded-out photos in the background?
Artist-specific branding.
4. The embedded "Chords & Tabs" player is totally sweet, but I don't understand the sheet music. I was expecting either a lead sheet (a la Fake Book), or just chord names and lyrics (e.g. http://www.azchords.com/s/shins-tabs-8023/newslang-tabs-237125.html ). Instead, I got TAB for a random part of the music (the "Beat It" tab was just for the guitar solo, and it didn't actually have the notes of the solo - just the riff that the rhythm guitar was playing (you know - da da da DA da, da da BUM BUM, da da da DA da, da da dum)). What's up?
5. Sections should link to each other - discography should link to related tabs, images, and (ideally) song previews.
6. Do the Shins have a foot fetish? Look at the images on their page...
7. Which brings me to a more general point...the image browser is a bit confusing. Maybe the images should be ordered by relevance, or browsable by album ("MJ at the Apollo '98", "Amherst Talent Show '03").
8. It's really awesome to have all of this information aggregated in one place.
My apologies, of course, if any of these issues are due to Catalyst or Flex limitations =).
Great work! I'm excited to watch this evolve!
-Adam

Lightroom 2.0 Slideshow

Is anybody else having problems with slideshow in 2.0?
It seems to me that photos appear soft on the slideshow.
Also in 1.4 you could hit escape during the slideshow and it took you to the Loupe with the image that was on screen, on 2.0 it takes you to the next photo in the slideshow (not much use if you are playing in random order)

There are a couple of slideshow bugs in 2.0. Like you said, stopping the slideshow results in it landing on a random photo, instead of the one you were looking at. Pressing the next or back arrows results in it no longer cross-fading between photos. And I've noticed sometimes it will repeat photos before going all the way through when playing in random mode.

Cannot login after Lion Update

After completing the Lion update, I attempted to login into my primary account. After getting the spinny for a while in the password box, the screen turned grey with a "faded" login photo for my account, then went completely grey, then I was returned to the login screen.
Fortunately I have a separate account on my machine and have been able to log in with that account.
Both of these accounts are FileVaulted. The administrative aspects of this primary account still seem functional, since I'm able to do things like (once I'm logged into the secondary account) open Software Update. I can also ssh into my primary account. But If I try to User-Switch using the user-switching menu in the upper-right corner of the screen to my primary account, I see very similar behavior. I get a grey screen, followed by a flash of the standard spiral-galaxy background, followed by a grey screen and a return to the login screen.
It seems like trying to go through one of the initialization steps on my primary account is failing.
Obviously, I'm pretty disappointed with this outcome. Anyone else seeing anything like this? Any pointers on how to further diagnose?

From MacRumors Forums. Sounds like a similar-enough issue to give this a try (http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=1191239):
I got the answer here
Ok step 1
Boot your mac with Option + R holding it will boot into recovery mode
Step 2 go into disk util and take terminal
write resetpassword
Choose root and put a password to log on root
Reboot the mac and log in as root and root password that you've done
Go in System Preference then users and group
Create a new account with the SAME NAME and SAME PASSWORD as your old account and put it as an administrator
When you accept it will say that in MacHD you already have an account with the same name do you want to use THAT folder
You say YES it will take 3 mnutes about.
Then log off and your account will be there, select it and put the password
It will log and all your files will be there.
That is what i done and it worked, my desktop docs and itunes is all there
And for the time i took
They refunded my Lion purchase and will send me a 50$ itunes store card
Gotta love it hehe
Sorry for the bad english
Message was edited by: michaelfromeagle

How can I keep a photo image from fading away on my tv using apple tv.

How can I keep a photo image from fading away on my tv using apple tv?

Thanks for you reply. When I paint, I bring up the photo as you suggested. I begin painting. After about 10 minutes or so, the photo goes blank. And, I have to start the process over again to get that same photo. It interrupts the painting process. I think it goes blank due to a sleep function. I have gone into the Apple TV settings and turned off the sleep function. But, this does not seem to work. What can I do to keep the image on the TV screen permanently?

Photos fading

Photos fading altho I'm using genuine HP ink on HP Advanced photo paper on my HP Photosmart 3210 AIO. I thought this combination was to produce at least "near archive" quality that would last more than a year or two. By comparison I have photos printed with refilled cartridges and no name photo paper displayed side by side that show less fading.

Hi
Check this video out, explains it really well and easy to follow
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxBSWaGkdFk&feature=PlayList&p=743FE52951ACB46E&playnext=1& playnext_from=PL&index=85

HT4906 As I set up my iCloud, Photo Stream which is faded cannot be chosen

As I setup my iCloud, Photo Stream is faded. I cannot choose the Photo Stream.Why is that?

This is the iPhoto forum. Since you have a PC you should post your question in the iCloud on my PC: iCloud: Apple Support Communities forum.
OT

How to re colour just the faded areas in photos in photoshop elements 10

i have a lot of black and white photos and most of them have just got very faded in just a few spots,how can i re colour just these faded spots?
i have tried to recolour the whole area but but the faded spots are still there !

That's a question for the Photoshop Elements forum, Few users here are familiar with Elements.
Photoshop Elements forum

Using Color From One portion of a Photo to Correct Color in a Faded Area

I'm a complete noob with photoshop elements 10. The more I look on this forum and in help the more confuesd I get. Here's my problem.
I have an old photograph that has faded from expoesure to sunlight. After removing the photo from the frame there is about a 1/2" portion around the entire picture that isn't faded and has correct color. How do I tell Elements to use that area with the correct color as the basis for fixing the faded portion of the photo?

There's one trick you can try to automate the process somewhat:
Make a duplicate of your original photo, and do all the remaining stuff on that duplicate photo so your original photo is safe.
Open the duplicate photo in PSE.
Use the Rectangular Marquee tool to select the faded area.
Use Edit...Cut to place the faded area on the Clipboard.
Save the image with the remaining "frame" area.
Use File...New...Image from Clipboard to create a new image with only the faded portion, and save it.
Use File...New...PhotoMerge Style Match.
At the bottom of the StyleMatch editing screen, click on the "Project Bin" tab so you can select your opened file to use.
Adjust the settings to suit.
The Help has more info about Style Merge:
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/photoshopelements/using/WS287f927bd30d4b1f-1a883eeb12e2803aa4d -7fce.html
You'll probably still need to do quite a bit of hand work, but that might give you a good starting point.
Ken

Why are my photos printed after work in photoshop coming our with faded color?

I am on a Mac with Maverick, using Photoshop CS6 and Lightroom 5. I am doing a portrait of 24 people and need to combine several photos to get an appealing final product. I move my photos from Lightroom and in Photoshop using mask layers have been combining the pictures. When I transfer them out as a Jpeg, and send them to a commercial printer they come out with a faded color look. I am at my whits end trying to figure out what I am doing wrong. Does anyone know what the solution is to this frustrating problem?

So gator, I am using a calibrator on my monitor and both printers Costco and Mpixpro are giving me the same results. If I dont do more than two layers in my work, I get fantastic results that I am totally pleased with. It is only when I involve multiple pictures and multiple layers. Are you saying to be in ProPhotoRGB unitl I create it into a Jpeg and then change it to a sRBG, for export to the printer. Do my settings look correct to you in LR and PS? Because, the more I here from the Forum, the more I think it is a setting deaper than my knowlege goes. Help please! I am attaching an example of my finished product in LR and it looks the Same in Photoshop as you can see. So I am including a view in my LR of the screen shot, a view in PS w the layers after the layers have been flattened, then a shot of saving it (But I have been saving it in "standard" not "optimized as in this picture) but you notice it is saying it is saving it as a ProPhotoRGB, and the last shot is the screenshot of it as a Jpeg in PS. Also I am including Info shots on the screen of the PS file and the Jpeg in hopes someone will see my problem and know the solution. When I do info checks, they show sRBG about 80% and ProPhotoRBG about 20% even though I have used the same steps? I have tried to capture a bunch of my work in screen shots that you might see the issue. Thanks so much for your time and help!

I want to delete photos that I have backed up from my computer, but when I go to select there is a faded trash can icon which I cant access

I want to delete photos that I have backed up from my computer, but when I go to select there is a faded trash can icon which I cant access

If you copied the photos in question to your iPhone by connecting to itunes on your computer you need to do this again. Start itunes on your computer, connect your iPhone, select your iPhone in itunes and select the photos tab. as long as you are connecting with the same computer you should see, in the Photos TSB, a list of the photo albums on your computer. Those that were synced previously have a check mark and are selected. Deselect those you no longer want on the phone and then click on Apply or Sync. The deselected albums will be deleted from your iPhone but they will remain on your computer.
if you only want to remove a few specific photos from various albums on your iphone, then move those photos out of the albums they are in on your computer. Then sync with iTunes. The photos you removed from the albums on your computer will be deleted from the albums on your iPhone when you click on Apply or Sync.

Watermark added to photos - but the colors are faded now!

Hi!
Hope somebody can help me, cause I couldn't find this problem in the forum yet.
I'm using Automator mostly for resizing my photos and to add a watermark. But after the workflow is finished the colors are always quite a bit faded.
I did the workflow manually with photoshop, but then the photos look normal!
I list the workflow as follows:
1. get selected finder items
2. open
3. add graphic watermark
4. scale image (750 px, 72ppi)
5. render (save as jpeg)
Hope somebody can help me.
Thanks.
lj

Hi!
Hope somebody can help me, cause I couldn't find this problem in the forum yet.
I'm using Automator mostly for resizing my photos and to add a watermark. But after the workflow is finished the colors are always quite a bit faded.
I did the workflow manually with photoshop, but then the photos look normal!
I list the workflow as follows:
1. get selected finder items
2. open
3. add graphic watermark
4. scale image (750 px, 72ppi)
5. render (save as jpeg)
Hope somebody can help me.
Thanks.
lj

How can i re colour just little faded spots on photos?

how can i re colour just the little faded spots in photos?? ive tried to recolour the whole area but the faded spots are always a diffrent colour ?im very new to elements ive only been using it for a few days and i cant find the answer anywhere !

hi ken
thanks for that but its more of a patch really its quite big as well its
a gone a very light grey colour and should be a deep black
>
Re: how can i re colour just little faded spots on photos?
created by photodrawken <http://forums.adobe.com/people/photodrawken>
in /Photoshop Elements/ - View the full discussion
<http://forums.adobe.com/message/4440880#4440880

Fading a Photo

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