Fan Replacement?

My G4 867DP's fan doesn't come on when it gets to about 134-5F CPU temp...like it always has...As a result, the CPU's temp just keeps going up, so I turn it off before it causes more damage...I don't know which fan is not working and is this a user replaceable thing? Machine works fine except for this....Help!!!

The main fan is behind the front drive bay and blows directly on the processor heat sink. My 1.25G MDD has a small fan in the side door that services the optical drive and two little ones in the power supply. If processor temps are climbing, it's most likely the main fan.
On my newer MDD, the fans run all the time, speeding up slightly when the load gets heavy. When working, did yours stay off until the heat rose and then kick in? If so, there may be a fault with a sensor. If you run Apple Hardware test (on one of the CDs that came with the computer), it can point to sensor failures. That could save the trouble of replacing the fan only to find that the logic board has a problem.
There is a cheaper test: power off and open up the computer. Nudge the main fan with a plastic or wooden stick to see it it's seized up. Sometimes the nudge will get the fan running although it often indicates a need for cleaning at best and a failing fan at worst. The fan is easy to remove and replace and should be something you can do at home.
Often a thorough cleaning and eviction of dust bunnies can reduce operating temps. See this recent post I made about areas to look for airflow problems here: http://discussions.apple.com/thread.jspa?threadID=1999976&tstart=0
I don't have the specs for the fan at hand but will look around. The main considerations are, first, airflow rating and, second, fit. A replacement fan must match the original in its capacity to move air, and obviously must fit the space provided.

Similar Messages

Idle Fan speed 4400 RPM after fan replacement

Several months ago the left side fan on my MBP died as the result of a worn bearing. The computer is covered under Apple Care so I sent it in to have the fan replaced. Ever since the fan was replaced the idle speed on both fans is in excess of 4K rpm even when the CPU shows minimal activity. SMC fan control is set to 2K rpm. iStat Nano widget displays temperature at 120 Degrees Fahrenheit and fan speed at 4500K. I took my MBP back to my local Apple authorized service center and told them what was occurring since having the fan replaced. From Hardin Apple service center in Arlington my MBP was shipped to Houston Texas where Apple Service Technicians replaced the Logic board. I have since reset the PMU by removing the battery and holding down the power button for 5 seconds. I have also run the Apple Hardware Diagnostic test using the install disc which showed no hardware malfunctions.
With the CPU 95% idle the fans should not be running anywhere near 4K. Despite two trips to Apple Service my MPB still has a fan probably which is not only annoying because of the increased noise but it is affecting my battery life as well. If anyone has any ideas as to how to fix this problem which I have not already attempted please post them. I am hesitant to send my MBP back for more service at this time due to their failure to fix the problem the first time or check the results. They were aware of the problem when I sent it in for service and when they returned it to me the same problem persisted. This type of service does not inspire customer confidence.

I'd be inclined to try an "archive and install" of the OS, Jason, and leave off any third party "add ons" like SMC fan control for the moment.
Alternatively if you have an external HD then you could try installing a "clean" copy of the OS on this and using it as the boot drive, to see if this overcomes the problem
There are OS software elements to the process of fanspeed control and if these are corrupted then the fans are likely to run at "failsafe" speed.
Another possibility may be that a temp sensor hasn't been properly re-connected, again resulting in "failsafe" sped operation.
Rod

T43p Cooling Fan Replacement

Hi all,
Have a noisey cooling fan on my T43p-2686-DHU. So, have puchased from Lenovo part 26R9074 "long fan 24".
Before, I open my Thinkpad for the first time. Was wondering if someone has instructions on how to do this repair, pointer to pitfalls, or comments.
Thanks in advance,
Atul
Solved!
Go to Solution.

http://www-307.ibm.com/pc/support/site.wss/MIGR-58791.html
this manual will show all the steps involved. The technicians at depot also follow this manual for most repair processes.
Fan replacement is fairly straight forward.
Regards,
Jin Li
May this year, be the year of 'DO'!
I am a volunteer, and not a paid staff of Lenovo or Microsoft

MOVED: MS 875P Neo System Bd Fan replacement...

This topic has been moved to Intel P4/Celeron boards.
https://forum-en.msi.com/index.php?topic=122757.0

Read this: >> Can anyone recommend me a Northbridge fan replacement? <<

MS 875P Neo System Bd Fan replacement...

Does anyone know where one can purchase the MSI 33mm system replacement fan...it doesn't have to be the Fancy Silver one that came w/ the board...thanks for any ideas...

Read this: >> Can anyone recommend me a Northbridge fan replacement? <<

R61i fan replaced, now goes into standby every 20 to 25 minutes

First post on this forum. Having paid a tech ($$$!) to come to my home to replace the fan, I've had the additional issue of standbys occurring at least once per hour which are without a clean power down option, only unplugging the machine actually works. The tech denies that this issue is related to the fan replacement. Friends (non R61i users) say it's overheating or possibly the heat sink is not correctly positioned. Is this machine worth trying to repair? Yes it's old and an XP but my situation is such that I need guidance as to my next step. Any help appreciated.

I have replaced the fan on my R61 myself 3 times. It failed the first time when it was 4 years old, and each time I replaced it with a used fan bought on EBAY. Maybe they were too used. All you need to do it yourself is a copy of a few pages from the Hardware Maintenance Manual, a tube of thermal paste, a screw driver and about 30 minutes of your time.
The last time it failed, I did not replace it. I bought a can of compressed air, and blew it over the fan blades, which were heavily coated with dust, and it has been working fine since then (although I do have a spare waiting to be used just in case).
I am thinking that possibly, the thermal paste was not reapplied correctly. You cannot have a heat sink not correctly positioned on an R61 as the fan and heat sink are one unit, and fit tightly in position. There are many vidoes on the internet that will show you haw to change a fan.
Good luck.
ThinkPad R61 8932-CTO T8300 2.40 Ghz 3GB RAM Win XP
ThinkPad R500 2714-CTO P8600 2.40 Ghz 3GB RAM Win XP; Two ThinkPad R500's 2714-CTO T9600 2.80 Ghz 4GB RAM Win 7
ThinkPad T500 2241-DB9 T9600 2.80 Ghz 4GB RAM Win 7
ThinkCenter A63 5237-CTO 3GB Ram Win XP; A21m and a pair of 380XD's

Do I need my fan replaced?

My fans recently have started making a much louder, more scratcy noise. It is not the macs fan simply speeding up as it happens even at low rpms around 2000. I am not sertain on this but I think my fans need lunbricating or replacing. Is this covered in the 1 year warrenty that came with the macbook pro. And on a side note does anyone know if apple would repair it even if I have bought it from John Lewis (somethink like best buy for you amercans).
Thanks for your replays in advance.

Your one-year warranty is good at any Apple Store or AASP. You may need your fans replaced if you've already blown them out. I wouldn't try any lubricant - just take your unit into your local Apple Store and let them 'hear' the problem.
Good luck,
Clinton

Portege 3490CT - Fan replacement

My portege has started freezing after about 10-15mins of use and the internal fan doesn't seem to be kicking in any more.
I am assuming it's the fan that is causing the problem as the screen stays the same (i.e probably not graphics problem) and there are no odd blue screens or errors and CTRL ALT DEL does nothing..
I've had the laptop apart and checked for dust and the fan connection and it all seems ok.
Is it possible to pickup a fan assembly on it's own, or does it come attached to the heatpipe (it's back together now and can't remember what it looks like!)
Do the entire 3400 series use the same fan assembly?
Apologies for all the questions but i really need my little laptop working again
Many thanks :)

Hi
It seems that your notebook hangs or shuts down because of high temperature inside of notebook. Mostly this issue happens because of dust and dirt. The fans cannot work with the full performance. I dont think that you need to replace the cooling module. Maybe the full clearing of the module and fans will solve the problems. Check also the settings in the power saver.
Im not 100% sure about the fan replacing on this unit because I dont know if its only a fan or the whole module which must be removed. But the best way to find it out is to contact the Toshiba service. There you can also order the new and compatible parts.

Laptop Fan Replaced But Fan isn't working

Hello Hp forum members, a few months ago my laptop's fan suddenly stopped working (the cause was probably lack of cleaning so the fans were clogged and ended up destroying its own motor) and I received the error messages on startup. So I got my fan replaced but now the error messages are gone but my fans aren't even on so I still have an overheating problem.
My laptop's model is Hp Pavilion DV6-6136TX
15" display
2nd Generation Intel Core i7-2630QM 2.0GHz CPU
4GB RAM
640GB HDD
ATI Radeon HD 6770M with 2GB Dedicated Graphics
Windows 7 Home Premium 64 Bit
I've had this laptop for 2 years and It is like family to me. Please help me find a solution to this I've been trying to fix it for 2 months and I'm really desperate.
In advance, Thank you hp support forum
This question was solved.
View Solution.

@Phileh
The fan part number is 650797-001 can be found on page 30
This one gets here, for example,
Component replacement procedures is on page 90
Say thanks by clicking the "Kudos! Star" which is on the left.
Make it easier for other people to find solutions, by marking my answer with "Accept as Solution" if it solves your issue.

Fan replacements/upgrade for MDD Power Mag G4-suggestions please!

First, I apologize for again bringing up what has been a frequently discussed topic. (ad nauseum?) I tried to do some homework first but I'd like a little help if anyone has some recent experience.
I am looking to change out the large main CPU heat sink fan and possibly the two power supply unit fans in my pair of MDD Power Mac G4s. The specs are Dual 1.25ghz (fw400) MDD G4. One has a 400watt actel PSU and another has a samsung 360watt PSU. Both large CPU case fans seem to be the original delta models installed by apple. Though essentially identical in specs, The 400 watt machine has the thick aluminum finned heat sink and the 360 watt machine has the aluminum heat sink with the thin sheets. The 400 watt machine is definitely louder, but I'm not using either of them for critical audio work, so its just a preference thing on having them run a bit quieter.
Both G4s are pretty loud. The noise bothers me a little, but what I really want to do is to replace what must be now pretty old delta fans with newer, quieter fans that will help extend the life of these 2nd hand computers that I plan to use for a number of years.
I scoured the web and read many articles about MDD mods and fan replacements, but many of the articles date back to 2003 and most of the fans that people have used seem to be no longer produced or available (such as the panaflow model referenced on xlr8yourmac.com I ran into many dead links! Maybe that's because there are better fan options now?
If anyone out there has replaced or upgraded their fans in a MDD recently, could you please reply and let me know...
Where you got them
What size and model number(s) for the fans
Whether you noticed any improvement in noise/cooling
I saw a recent post about replacing fans on an AGP Power Mac...
http://discussions.apple.com/message.jspa?messageID=11628216#11628216
Would these fans be the same? I'm guessing that the MDD wind tunnel might need more cooling than a G4 (AGP) right? SOme places mentioned that the main fans were 119x119x25, while others mentioned that hey were 120x120x25. Is 1mm going to make a difference? I'd prefer not to have to dremel them if I don't need to!
Lastly, if you have a direct link to a reasonably priced fan that you'd recommend, I'd appreciate it greatly!
Thanks for any help!
Dave C

Thanks Japamac!
Thanks for your replies! Those look very good! So many to choose...
Exactly the info I was looking for. I was checking out the panaflow (I was a bit overwhelmed by the number of choices on the 'Performance-pcs' website... if you were buying, which one of those 34 would you get? Assuming a budget of 20 bucks per 120mm fan...)
But a followup question on the Panaflo model you linked to. In the many web articles I read I recall that one being well regarded. ,IF I buy that one, I have a few choices on tail options...
3 pin
4 pin
4 pin male molex with separate 3 pin rpm connector
Am I correct that if I opt for the last option I can get the fan to run at a medium rpm all the time and have it be less likely to ramp up under heavy loads?
Lastly, will this possibly be a problem I might have, simiar to what was noted by a xlr8yourmac fan modder -->
http://www.xlr8yourmac.com/systems/g4mirrored_drive_doors/noise_reduction/g4_ddr_noisereduction.html
"(Updated comments added 7/9/2009)
I have an important update to that G4 fan mod note I gave you.
I noticed that the 120mm fan wasn't pushing as much air as I thought it should, and I realized it was because the 2-pin fan connector on the motherboard wasn't providing enough power. +(3 pin connectors typically are for adjustable/variable speeds. But if it's a constant speed fan then maybe the 2 pin wiring was using only 5V vs 12V? (higher voltage = higher rpm fan speed typically)-Mike)+ I put the 3-pin connector back on and used a 3 to 4 pin Molex adapter adapter to connect it to the 4-pin hard drive power cables -- voila! Lots more air. So... Following the directions in the older article exactly may NOT work depending on the fan you get. Also, using a 3 to 4 pin adapter is much easier than modifying the connector from 3 to 2 pins as indicated in the article."
This was confusing because I thought that there was just a 3 wire lead to connect or splice, with the yellow wire probably just not being used.
Your thoughts?
Dave C

Had fan replaced. Now no sound.

I recently had the cooling fan replaced. Now I have no sound. I have tested the hardware and it appears that each stereo channel responds during the test but no sound is heard. I am running Win 7 Pro (64 bit).

The built-in speaker cable is very easy to crimp or even forget about when putting the iBook back together. This is usually a multi-strand multi-colored cable snaking along the left side of the computer above the top shield, a portion of which can be seen when the keyboard is removed. Check to see that the cable is securely connected (and still in one piece) and you should be home free.

Can anyone recommend me a Northbridge fan replacement?

I have a MSI K8N Neo4-F nForce4 and recently i have been experiencing random crashes and lock ups which i think are due to the northbridge fan failing (it was making horrible noises).
I tried to replace this with the Asaka heatsink/fan combination thing but it didn't fit under the graphics card as there is only about 1.5cm vertical space available. Can anyone recommend a replacement suitable for this motherboard? Preferably a cheap one. =)
Also -i don't know much about chipset- is it safe to run the computer without a northbridge fan installed assuming i don't do anything intensive like games or whatever?
Thanks in advance.

I was sniffing around some other forums,(as you do), when I came across this post. It sounds intresting, and may be worth giving it a try.
Quote
"Repair your noisy cpu and system fans
This is a fix that will last for a long, long time.
Buy some graphite powder and some oil at an auto or hardware store. They come in different packages. For oil, the best is the pen-type as they are easy to handle and only give a small amount at a time. Just about any oil in a pen format will work fine. The graphite powder comes in small plastic tubes. But make sure you get graphite powder, not graphite oil, its too thin for this job! So you need graphite powder in a small tube and oil in a round "pen" that can be squeezed out and placed just where you need it. Also, when the oil is used up in the "pen" you can open it and add your own oil.
First, clean the fan blades off real well. If you have a heatsink with the fan then clean the heatsink off as well. You can even use a bit of your oil and some q-tips for cleaning if needed. Then, take the small circle, it usually has a name on it, but its in the middle of the fan. Peel one edge up carefully and put a very small amount of oil in where you lifted the label up. Now add some graphite powder in the same place where you put the oil, add as much or a bit more of the graphite powder than the oil. Clean off excess oil and graphite and push the label back where it was. You may need a very small amount of duct tape to hold the label in position and to prevent leakage. This is important if the fan is going to "sit up" as opposed to lying flat.
Now put the fan back where you want it and when it starts spinning it may be noisy for a few seconds until the graphite\oil works its way in. Then it will stop and it will stay stopped for many years and you may very well not need to buy a new fan after all!
I experimented a lot with this and this is the very best way to quiet all those fans and have them work well. I have always been a big fan of those removable ide hard drive trays that you can buy. But the fans are the pits, they get noisy real fast. So i had to find a way to fix them as they are very expensive and hard to replace. Now i don't have to. Combo of oil and graphite is the very best, by far. One caution, graphite stains worse than
oil, so be careful! I'm talking about staining your clothes and hands.
You can use this system with all CPU fans, video card fans, system fans, and even fans inside power supplies. But one word of caution, its easy to open a power supply and take out the fan, but do be careful as there are voltages there can can hurt you badly. If you don't know what you are doing then wear rubber gloves to get the fan out and to put the fan back in after the
repair!
Trust me, this will work. If the fan spins my method will work for years and I have even fixed fans that were stuck and wouldn't spin! This is better done with the fan on the table but in those cases where you cant or don't want
to take the fan out of the system, that's where the "pen" with the needle comes in again, but i still find a way to get some graphite in as well, graphite is what makes the oil last a long time! And graphite is also an oil, but you need both together for maximum effectiveness. Oil by itself will only last a few weeks or so and then evaporate, and the fan will get noisy again. Its the graphite powder that does the long term job. The oil really only helps to spread the graphite powder around really well so the graphite can do the job!
Hope you do as well as i have with this info!"
End Quote.
Edit - Additional Info
The type of northbridge fan used on some MSI boards, eg K8N Platinum & Diamond etc, require that you remove the fan from the board first (you will have to remove the motherboard to do this). This is because the top of the shroud is attached from the bottom by two tiny Phillips type screws. Once you have removed the shroud, very gently prise off the fan from the motor assembly. There is no need to try and remove the three other tiny screws that secure the fan motor in place to the bottom half of the shroud. Once removed, you will see that under the fan is a small plastic pin that holds the sleeve bearing in place.
Russell.

PowerBook G4 DVI w/Dead Internal Primary Fan, Replacement Parts Questions

Hey Everyone,
I'm preparing to replace the primary fan on a PowerBook G4 DVI. I have a spare, used primary fan, but lack the rubber pins.
Does anyone know where these little things can be purchased online separate from the fan kit itself? I did some searching on Google with no luck.
Thanks for any leads/suggestions!

Rather doubt they are available separately, but you may want to try these places:
Parts/Repair Sites
ifixit.com
pbparts.com
powerbookmedic.com
dttservice.com
powerbooktech.com
powerbookresq.com
powerbookguy.com
powerbookrepairshop.com

COOLING FAN : REPLACEMENT PART

Hi,
My laptop just keep shutting down... notice that an alarm has been issued during startup stating than the CPU fan is no longer working properly.
For this case, where can i buy a replacement part for this item only.
Pls. advice asap, and probably include pricing if available.
Thank you

MrDLCG wrote:
Hi,
My laptop just keep shutting down... notice that an alarm has been issued during startup stating than the CPU fan is no longer working properly.
For this case, where can i buy a replacement part for this item only.
Pls. advice asap, and probably include pricing if available.
Thank you
You can purchase parts from http://partsurfer.hp.com or any online retailer if you can locate the HP part number. Just type your model number (or Product Number) into the search field on Partsurfer.

Dual 1.8 PSU fan replacement

I have a dual 1.8 Powermac G5 that has one really loud fan (suspect bearing, not CFM noise). I tore down the PSU, blew out the dust bunnies and singled out the bad fan, the 2-wire one. I'd like to replace them both, but am not sure of a good replacement, anyone found one? Currently they are Superred 0.22A, CHA6012CBN-O-R and ...CBN-OA-R Any advice before I order some that are too high of an RPM or too low would be great.

You might take a look at the fans at this link for information. The 5000 RPM fan is about the correct power level. I haven't (and won't tonight) taken a look at how fast the fans are spinning on my "free range" supply when powered up. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a strobotach unit, so I would only be guessing anyway.
(Wow! I hadn't even thought about a strobotach unit in a long time, and it's been several decades since I actually used one, probably in a rotating machinery lab class in the seventies. A fun toy, though.)
You could also Google "60mm square DC fans" and see what you find.

Sawtooth Quieting Project: Fan Replacement - Specs on 120 mm case fan?

So I thought I'd look into potentially cutting down the noise from my Sawtooth by replacing the 120 mm case fan. So, I have three (hopefully short) questions on my mind about this:
a) What are the specs on the original 120 mm case fan? All I can see is that it's manufactured by NMB.
b) Would I have to do anything special to get a replacement fan to work? (i.e. getting around non-standard power connectors, etc.)
c) If anyone's tried this before, are there any recommended fans out there I should look into?
Thanks in advance.

That's something I ran into, too. You see recommendations for certain types of really good fans but you cant find them in local stores.
This is what I did to quiet down my noisy Mac(after this thing was running for about half an hour it was just intolerable to be in the same room with).
I replaced the fan in the power supply.This is about the most difficult thing to do but the noise reduction was immense.This is a 80x80x25 mm fan and I put in a Thermaltake I bought at a PC shop.CFM (37)is lower than what was in there but the air coming out is barely warm.
I replaced the case fan with a Coolermaster ( forget the model)that is much quieter too.Look for a 120 mm fan, take the old one with you to check the size/thickness.
Then I hooked the case fan and the CPU fan ( this is a Quicksilver) up to something to regulate the voltage.I'm using a Radio Shack/ The Source power adaptor that can output either 12v,9V,7.5V, etc with a little switch on the unit.
I also opened up one of the PCI slot cover to let a little more air in.
Instead of running the fans at their rated 12v,I use the adaptor to run them at 9v.The noise reduction is dramatic, the unit does not get hot inside ( when I was testing, I opened it up and touched the heatsink every half hour or so, not hot at all).And you can always flip it back to 12V to run the fans at full speed anytime you want.
This is works great for me, it might not work for everyone if you're not comfortable with working inside power supplies ( potentially dangerous, do some reading on this first)or messing with Apple's precious fans.But I'm talking a 2/3rds noise reduction here with less than $50 worth of parts!
I didnt replace the CPU fan ( yet) because the replacement I bought was actually noisier than the stock one.Smaller fans tend to produce the most annoying noise, the larger the fan ,less irritating the sound.Find a local PC store that sells parts and has a decent return policy.Anything 12V will work in a Mac regardless of which sizes you buy.
Decent fans have the specs clearly marked on the box.Dont get too hung up on CFM ratings.I've found that certain fans are quieter than other regardless of CFM and Noise claims and you just have to try them out in your Mac to find the one you can live with.Luckily , we're talking about cheap parts here and the biggest hassle is dealing with Apple's dinky fan connectors. I just cut them off and splice..red to red, black to black.
If I was running major heat sources like 2 Ghz CPU upgrades or 256 MB+ vid cards, I might think twice about under-volting the fans, but I'm not.This Mac is primarily for music production and recording and I need it to be quiet, otherwise it is useless to me.
Dont be afraid to get in there and replace/fiddle with those fans. The results can be dramatic and very pleasing to your ears.

Fan Replacement?

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