FAQ: How do I choose the right sequence settings?

In general, the settings of a sequence should match those of the primary footage type in the sequence. Though Premiere Pro can mix footage of various types in a sequence and compensate for differences in characteristics, performance and quality are maximized when such conversions are avoided.
See this video for more information:
How do I choose the right sequence settings?
Also see these sections in Premiere Pro Help:
Create a sequence
Sequence presets and settings

Sorry to say this - but you've got the wrong advice from Adobe.
You were right in selecting the profile for Epson premium glossy paper - if that's what you are printing on.
The magenta cast is most probably due to double color management, i.e. color management for your printer was not switched off. You did all the right moves , but still the color management for the printer was not switched off. This seems to be an Epson - Lightroom problem. You are about the fourth poster who has this problem with Lightroom and Epson printers. All of them said that they were sure that they had color management by the Epson printer switched off. There seems to be a hidden setting that prevails or is called by Lr.
The magenta cast is typical for double color management.
Read this - maybe it helps: http://people.csail.mit.edu/ericchan/dp/Epson3800/printworkflow.html#display_calibration
Don't miss the section on  "How to print images from Lightroom".
I don't have an Epson printer so can't give you further insight on this. Except ...
Disable - temporarily - all custom print profiles and templates that you may have created. Move them to a different folder where Lr does not find them. I cannot guarantee that this helps but if the problem persists it might be worth a try.
One of the above mentioned posters said that the problem disappeared after disabling an old print preset that he had created for a prior version of Lr.

Similar Messages

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    I'm new in taking video's and in editing them. I bought a Sanyo HD Xacti Video camera and made a lot of clips in my last holiday. The clips are transferred to my compter and have the format .MP4 1280-720 depth 1280 and 29,97 fps.
    I want to create after editing en DVD which I can show on my TV 16:9 (PAL-Netherlands)
    When I create a new project I have to choose the seetings and I really do not know how to choose!!
    What Project settings should I choose because in the settings I only see 30 fps under de NTSC systems. Is there some where a general explanation how to do?
    Help will be appreciated very much!!
    Greetings Willem

    Before the NTSC to PAL, I believe there are other major considerations.
    1. You are recording 720p30 1280 x 720 16:9 at 30 frames per second, using the MPEG-AVC/H.264 codec). That sounds to me like your are dealing with what they call "AVCHD-Lite". If so, there are major basic problems editing that in Premiere Elements 7. See Steve Grisetti's FAQ
    http://forums.adobe.com/thread/454585?tstart=0
    2. Your remarks would suggest that you want to create at DVD-VIDEO widescree (16:9) of your Timeline.
    3. So before all else, I would determine if you can successful bring your video into Premiere Elements 7 and export the DVD-VIDEO in the NTSC system before you think about converting an NTSC video to a PAL end product.
    4. Typically you select the project preset (new project dialog) to match the properties of your video. Once done that does not stop you from changing the export preset later. In the case of your NTSC 720p30 Sanyo video, I would suggest the project preset (new project dialog) = NTSC HDV HDV 720p30. Think of the project preset as a template from which you can edit your video. Although this 720p is a variant of AVCHD, I suggest the HDV category since there is no 720p preset under AVCHD. Note that the descriptions to the right of where you set the preset.
    5. In Share/Disc/Disc, in the Burn Dialog, then select the preset: NTSC_Widecreen_Dolby DVD. If that is all completed successfully then we can talk about conversion of NTSC 1280 x 720 16:9 to a PAL DVD-VIDEO (720 x 576 25 frames per second with a 16:9 flag to stretch the video on display after encoding).
    6. You may find the following link helpful:
    http://www.camcorderinfo.com/content/article_converting_ntsc_pal.htm
    ATR

  • Cant fiquer out how to choose the correct sequence settings for HD

    I edit for over 50 shooters whom I never have contact with. I get every possible file format & never the parameters they shot in. In FCP all I had to do was drag the footage to an empty sequence & it would automatically adjust it to the exact sequence parameters. In PP I always get either a yellow bar or red bar on everything I try to edit and the footage in the program window is always very strobey whether I set it for field or frame display. (All DV footage I have no issue with, it's only HD files)
    In Premiere CS5 I am finding it frustrating. Is there a program that cam read all the important codec info so at least I can dig for a sutible sequence? I tryed gspot but it doesn't tell much & PP CS5 clip properties doesn't seem to be of much help either.
    Am I missing something in my approach?

    Footage like DVCPROHD (P2 MXF) and XDCAM EX show no bar in sequences with matching parameters; they'll show yellow lines (hardware MPE) and red lines (software MPE) in non-matching sequences. Footage like DSLR H.264 from a Canon T2i, for example, show yellow bars, even in matching sequences. So, you can't really rely on the yellow bar/red bar as an indicator of footage matching the sequence. Typically, the "drag to New Item" action will generate a sequence that matches your footage, though it might not always use the editing mode that matches the footage (e.g. P2 with P2 media).
    Ultimately, knowing a little bit about your footage helps. I like using MediaInfo much more than GSpot for video file snooping; it much more modern, gives more helpful information (in my opinion), and integrates nicely with your operating system (e.g. tool tip popups, right-click "MediaInfo" items).

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    Use Carbon Copy Cloner to clone your present OS X boot partition (no Bootcamp or Filevault) to a blank external drive, you can hold the option key down and boot from this clone.
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    http://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos/
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  • Choosing the Right Power Supply

    First things first. If you've got a poor-quality and/or faulty power supply, nothing else you do will work to solve your problems. Stick to the basics before you go further...The short answer is to buy a hi-powered, brand name supply, like the new ENERMAX line (430 W or higher) or ANTEC True550. Almost nothing else will do with today's computers. In over 30 years of electronic/computer service, I have found that 85% or more of problems were power-related.
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    Choosing The Right Power Supply
    If you’re reading this, there’s a good chance that one of my colleagues or I believe that you could be experiencing problems with your power supply, based upon the symptoms you mentioned in your post, and provided you with this link. Relax, you’re not alone. In 30 years of electronic and computer troubleshooting, I’d say that the majority of the electronic, mainframe, mini, and microcomputer problems I’ve diagnosed and repaired were with the basic power the problematic device was receiving. The symptoms often included random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc.
    (As the national support technician for few major computer service companies, working US Defense contracts, I was often the person that had to fly in and correct the problem, or “walk through” the on-site technician as he closely followed my instructions. I achieved success in my career by carefully reading the manuals, knowing where to go for more information that was otherwise unavailable to me, and/or systematically troubleshooting until the problems were discovered and repaired. I never had the option of giving up.)
    The most overlooked component when building or upgrading a PC is the power supply unit (PSU). Some people use their old case and PSU when they upgrade. Some use the PSU that came with their new case. Some people even buy a new PSU. And most inexperienced builders all make the same mistake: The PSU that they’re trying to use is simply inadequate for the job.
    Suppose you’re upgrading to a new motherboard, CPU, ram, and video card, but still using the old case and PSU. It’s most likely that you’re upgrading in order to build a machine that is more powerful, faster, has a more colorful display, can number-crunch more quickly, play the latest games, etc. These gains in performance all have one thing in common: They require more raw power. However, have you thought about where that power comes from?
    Suppose you’re building a new system with a new case and PSU. Has it occurred to you that the company that you bought the case/PSU from might make more money if they skimp on the supply, even if the supply has a large wattage rating? Most bulk power supply manufacturers don’t make good PSU’s. They use older, cheaper technology, and slap on labels that represent the PSU’s peak outputs, and not their continuous output rating. These companies are intentionally misleading you in order to sell you an inferior product. Brands I avoid when building/repairing my friends’ and family’s computers: Allied, Q-Tec, Chieftech, and many others.
    For those of you who bought a power supply separately, did you know that you’re only supposed to run a power supply continuously at 30-70% (with 50% being optimal) of its continuous rating for maximum efficiency (which means less heat to you)? Most inexperienced builders either buy PSU’s that are matched to their equipment’s continuous power usage, or ones that are even less powerful than they need. Why? Because they’re trying to save money.
    I mean, what’s the fun in a power supply? You don’t get any games with it, there’s no more storage, hardly ever any more bells and whistles, etc. A power supply is boring, and it’s supposed to be, because it’s supposed to provide a stable, reliable platform upon which the rest of the equipment can easily access the amount of power it needs, and when it’s needed. In almost EVERY review of powers supplies, the same point is stressed: Better safe than sorry.
    But what does safe vs sorry mean? It can mean that you don’t have to waste money on the wrong PSU in the first place, but it can also mean that you don’t have to replace your expensive ram, CPU, video card, etc. NEEDLESSLY, or because your cheap PSU destroyed them. What? A cheap power supply can wreck your computer? YES IT CAN. A cheap power supply can cause thermal damage, not only from the heat it produces, but also the heat it can create in your components as well. RAM is especially sensitive to heat, and there’s RAM in your CPU, your video cards, and, well, your RAM too. A cheap switching power supply, run at its maximum, or peak, continuously can also destroy components by creating RF (Radio Frequency) signals on your power rails, signals which the components on your peripheral devices were not equipped to handle in the first place.
    So this begs the question, how does one choose the right power supply? I’ll illustrate this using my own PC as the example. This is my setup that I use for video processing:
    K7N2G-ILSR
    Athlon 2500+ Barton @ 2125Mhz
    AMD Retail Heatsink/Fan
    2 - 512MB DDR333 w/Thermaltake Spreaders (slot 1&3)
    MSI TV@nywhere Video Capture
    ATI Radeon 9600
    120GB Maxtor DiamondMax Plus 9 SATA
    30GB Quantum IDE
    TEAC DV-W50E DVD/CD-R/W
    BTC DVD-ROM Drive
    Artec CD-R/W
    Using this Power Supply Calculator link:
    http://www.jscustompcs.com/power_supply/
    I plug in all my equipment values, but some of this can be a little tricky. For example, since I often run the CPU like an XP 3000, I choose the 3000 as my processor; it’s the same chip run at the faster rate. I also choose the ATI Radeon video card, and I select the RAM wattage for 2 sticks of DDR. I also choose every card I have, like my video capture card, but I also select the boxes for the separate cards that correspond to the functions that my ILSR provides as well (and that I use), like sound, USB, Firewire, NIC, etc.  Although I use the onboard SATA controller, I don’t select the SCSI PCI card, because, in truth, I’ve probably made up for it by selecting all the other corresponding devices, including cards that the motherboard replaces. I check the boxes for the fans and drives I use, and I’m done, right?
    Not yet.
    I just remembered that I plan to upgrade soon, so I go back and change the values to reflect my impending changes. I mean, I want to make sure that I have enough power to begin with so that I don’t have to replace the power supply again, right?
    Ok. Done. I look at the bottom and see that it tells me that I need a 468 watt PSU. So a 480 watt supply will do, right? Wrong.
    Remember that, for efficiency, long-life, and less heat, you want your actual power consumption to fall between 30-70% of the PSU’s rating, so add 30% (minimum) to the 468, and you get 468 + (468*.30)= 608 Watts! Holy Cow!
    However, I’d only need a 608-Watt supply if I was using all the devices at once, and I don’t. But, in truth, with video and audio processing, I often get close when I process, burn, and monitor at the same time. (Hardcore gamers also get close a lot, as they blast the sound and push that video to its limits.) So, let’s take off 10% (maximum) of 608, for a total of 541 Watts.
    I need a 550 Watt supply, but not just ANY 550 watt PSU. I need a supply that can give me enough power on the critical 3.3, 5, and 12V rails combined. I also want a supply from a trusted, name-brand manufacturer, so I start hitting the many online reviews. Here are just two from Tom’s Hardware:
    http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20030609/index.html
    http://www6.tomshardware.com/howto/20021021/index.html
    Read these in their entirety. I didn’t post them because they’re pretty links.
    In the end, I chose Antec, because they’ve got the reputation, the recommendation, and because the Antec True550 has better specs than the rest of the 550 Watt competition. I also bought it from a reputable company I found on Pricegrabber.com, for the lowest price I could find, $95.00 shipped to my door. (In truth, I wanted two mini-redundant supplies, like the hospitals and military use, but they were too expensive.)
    The result? Not only are the random reboots, crashing, the BSOD, lockups, etc., gone like magic, but I also now have “peace of mind” in that whatever might happen to my equipment in the future, I know almost for certain that the PSU is NOT the problem. I also bought an UPS, because the East Coast Blackout proved to me that even the Antec True550 isn’t going to provide me any power for emergency shutdown if it doesn’t get its power from somewhere.
    Even if your problem doesn’t lie in the PSU completely, it gives you a GREAT platform for troubleshooting further. If you’re not reasonably certain that the supply is the cause, borrow one, or buy one that you can return once you’ve solved the problem. But, above all else, BUY THE RIGHT SUPPLY before you do anything else! Otherwise, you could be plugging and unplugging components, buying and blowing up expensive memory, and causing even further damage, until you give up or die.
    I mean, I assume you built your own system to enjoy “more bang for your buck,” right? What’s the fun of a random reboot in the middle of Unreal Tournament 2003?
    William Hopkins
    Former Staff Sergeant, USAF
    B.A., B.S., with Honors
    The University of California, San Diego
    [email protected]
    P.S. It should be noted that while Enermax, ThermalTake, Zalman, Fortron, and others make great PSU’s, and I compared and considered them, the Antec still won out overall in my critical evaluation, like it did in so may others’ reviews. You’d probably be ok if you went with another reputable manufacturer as listed above, but pick a supply that gives you at least 230 watts on the 3.3 and 5V lines combined, and still meets the 30% criteria as stated above. Remember, if the manufacturers don’t give you maximum combined specs up front, they’re untrustworthy right off the bat. With power supplies, you definitely end up getting what you pay for. Don’t say nobody warned you.
    P.P.S. Update! After recent developments, it looks like Enermax is the leader, but only the latest line of PSU's.

    Ok, as an electrical engineer...I have to step in here! LOL
    First, these amp rating are for 2 +12 rails. That is why you see a protection of around 15-18A on the +12 rail. That means each Rail is allowed up to 18A lets say for the new Enermax 1.2 version like the one I have.
    Now, Lets say 18A for 12V....well as you know the Abit NF7-S uses the 12V for powering the CPU.
    Lets say you have a Barton like me and you want it stable at around 2.4-2.5Ghz. You will have to put lets say around 2V to the cpu to get it stable at that kinda speed, specially if you have high FSB like I do. So 12V * 18Amps = 216W ....well the converter on the NFS-7 is really bad, its loss on the step down convertion is probably around 25% along with the PSU lost cuz its not running at 25oC (another 15%)....you will actually only get around 100-120W for the CPU.
    Now, if you go into Sandra and see how much a Barton eats up at 2.4Ghz you will see its around 110Watts.
    So, if you wanna push more, dont even think about it! Prime Power test fails and your +12 rail will drop as low as 11.60 Volts.
    Now, lets say you got yourself a AMD 64 bit chip and you wanna overclock it....I bet it will need more than 110Watts.
    So, what im saying is, dont buy nothing less than a 500 Watt PSU!
    You really need around 20-22 A on the main +12 along with really really good cooling on the case and PSU so it is running at a 100%.
    http://forums.amdmb.com/showindex.php?s=&threadid=287828
    i found this quite interesting especially the bit re the power loss turning the 12v into 1.6v or what ever cpu needs

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    Hello all,
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    my question:
    I need some help in choosing the right specs for my mac pro. I am looking for a computer that will help me in running my small business and keep my art portfolio organized. I'll probably be running several programs at a time (ex. mozilla, itunes, adobe bridge, dreamweaver, illustrator, and photoshop). More specifics below
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    Hello again washleyill,
    The defining factor, which you haven't mentioned in either this or your original question, is what your overall budget is.
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    However, Adobe UK made me an offer I couldn't refuse! The full boxed Photoshop CS5 edition for half price!
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    Regards,
    Bill

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    Debbie
          From: sukritd15 <[email protected]>
    To: Deborah Karr <[email protected]>
    Sent: Friday, February 13, 2015 5:35 AM
    Subject:  While editing a scanned pdf, Acrobat will not recognize the current font & change to very different font. How can I choose the font I want to match the current document?
    While editing a scanned pdf, Acrobat will not recognize the current font & change to very different font. How can I choose the font I want to match the current document?
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