Fax modem for new iMacs

Are there fax modem options for the new iMacs and Snow Leopard. I don't need a fax service, a modem would be better for my needs.

Should have paid more attention.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/411345-REG/AppleMA034Z_A_USB_ModemExternal.html
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013FDLM0
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&safe=off&client=firefox-a&rls=org.m ozilla:en-US:official&hs=rT4&q=appleusbmodem&revid=1158204700&resnum=0&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=9832728713848179501&ei=RL3gSvz MKILCNqErMMI&sa=X&oi=product_catalogresult&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CB8Q8wIwAw#ps-sellers

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Fax Modem for Mavericks

Are there any fax modems that will work on my new iMac running Mavericks 10.9

I finally got the message below from USR. I followed their instructions & it worked!!
Thank you for choosing USRobotics.
Your case number for this issue is: 301667052
Your initial email was replied to on November 13, 2013. Below the reply we provided you to configure the modem:
After reading your e-mail I understand that you would like to know if the modem is in fact compatible to Mac OSX 10.9 Maverick. Yes the USR5637 is compatible with Mac OSX 10.9.
If you will use the modem for a dial up connection to the Internet follow these steps:
1- In the System Preferences, open the Network.
2- Once in the Network section, click on the USB Modem and click on Advanced.
3- Make sure that under Vendor and Model the USR5637 is correctly selected.
4- In the PPP tab make sure the Use Verbose login check box is checked.
5- Fill the Username, Password and Phone number with your ISP information and click on Connect.
If you will use the modem for faxing follow the steps below:
1- In the System Preferences, open the Printer & Scanner or Printer & Faxes depending of your Mas OSX version.
2- Once in the Printer & Scanner or Printer & Faxes, if the devices shows up as an external modem you need to remove it. If the device is not listed skip to step 3.
3- Click on the add button and on the window that comes up, click on the fax tab at the top of the window, you should see a USB modem listed.
3- Complete the on screen steps to Add a USB modem.
I hope this helps.
Again, thank you for choosing USRobotics.
Re: Fax Modem for Mavericks

How much RAM should I install for new iMAC ?

Hi,
How much RAM should I install for new iMAC* running Logic Studio? It comes with 4 GB - is that enough? (can you run in 64 bit mode..)
*(The 21.5" 3.06GHz Intel Core 2 Duo)
Also, I was planning to get the stock 1 TB Hard Drive & save projects to an external drive.
Does that sound reasonable?
Any other recommendations?
Thanks,
Wm Heart

Unless you plan on running huge projects with enormous sampled instruments, 4 GB will do (very) fine. And your disk plan is sound. Choose an external Firewire drive, rather than USB. FW is easier on the CPU and can handle more tracks than USB.
What you should get, instead of more memory, is a (24 bit) external audio interface, if you want to do serious recording and playback.
What type of audio interface you'ld need, depends on what you want to do with it and of course your budget. From decent to brilliant costs from roughly 100 to several 1,000's of europounddollars. Avoid the 16 bit ones, they're worse than the inbuilt audio chip of your iMac. You can recognize 16 bit Audio Interfaces (in webshops) by their prize (often under 100€£$) and the lack of mention of their bitrate.
HTH
Regards, Erik.

I just swapped old modem for new model. Says I'm connected but airport flashing amber and no connection. Do I have to configure a new network???

I just swapped out old modem for new model. Airport flashing amber. Wi-Fi connection good but airport not responding. Do I need to configure a new network connection? Change anything in airport utility?

Welcome to the forum!
I'm a big fan of resetting in situations like this. Who knows what boxes you've ticked where...
Use the hard reset button with a paper clip on your Airport express. Hold it til the light starts blinking, then let it reset.
While it's resetting, go into your Network prefs and make sure you're set up to connect via Airport. Delete any references to your prior wireless network in the preferred networks section. Go into your keychain utility and delete any passwords there. (this is assuming you were using some form of wireless security).
After your AE has restarted, choose it from the Airport pull-down menu and run the Airport Setup Assistant utility. Once you've got it up and running, use Airport Admin utility to set security and passwords.
Seems drastic, but after all the poking around you've done, these steps should be pretty simple to perform. I'm guessing your original "Looking for PPPoE host" was a temporary problem with your IP. Maybe the ethernet cable was unplugged from AE?
Good luck

Finding a dial-up FAX modem for iMac Intel Core Duo

I know that Apple has its own modem with USB dongle, but I've also heard that this modem may have some peculiar problems.
How can I find (conveniently) other V.90 or V.92 FAX modems which are supported on the iMac and in OS 10.4.7 Tiger?
Anyone have any comments -- positive or negative -- about any modems -- Apple, US Robotics, Global Village, other?
Thanks
Jerry
P.S. I primarily want the modem to be able to send and receive FAXes with the iMac.

Hello,
I have always preferred US Robotics modems. But, you are going to find your options a bit limited these days.
The problem is that most manufacturers are no-longer producing drivers for the newer Mac OS versions. So, you would need to locate a modem who's driver is already integrated / built-into OS X.
Fortunately, the drivers are provided for a large number of modems out there. But, you won't necessarily get any support from their manufacturer since the drivers in OS X are provided by Apple.
That said, I would personally go with either a US Robotics modem (since that would be a very established standard and the drivers are supplied by Apple in OS X).
But, if you are not comfortable purchasing a modem that does not come with Apple drivers in the box for OS X 10.4.7, then you really should just buy the modem from Apple so that you know it is supported by the current version of OS X.
I hope this helps.
Let us know if you have other questions.
P.S., if you'd like, go ahead and click the "Helpful" or "Solved" buttons on any of the posts / replies above if you feel they were helpful or adequately answered your question.

Leopard discount for new imac owners?

Just wondering if there is a discounts offer on the new OS for people who purchased the new imac in the last three months? Anyone know?

It's been covered here several dozen times already, but the standard Mac OS Up-To-Date upgrade package is available to all customers who purchased a qualifying new Mac system from Apple or an Apple Authorized Reseller on or after October 1, 2007 for a shipping and handling fee of $9.95 (US). See this web page for details:
http://www.apple.com/macosx/uptodate/
Note that the program ends on December 29, 2007. Your order must be postmarked or faxed by January 4, 2008, so if your system qualifies, don't delay in getting your order in.

What printer and fax modem for leopard

Since updating to leopard I`m having a lot of trouble with my Canon MP 780. I have tried new drivers and everything else I can think of including reading these forms for a solution ever since leopard was released.It seems to me that apple forgot all about faxing and printing when they developed leopard. So my question is, is there a multifunction printer that works well with leopard. Seems nothing can save my MP 780. Also I need a fax modem but it seems they are far and few between that play nice with leopard. A few suggestions would be greatly appreciated.It seems as though leopard is apple`s Vista when it comes to printing and faxing. Sorry I`m just really tired of this.

I'm using a HP Officejet 7780 which works great, the bad news is it was recently replaced by the OfficeJet 8500 series AIO. HP make 3 versions:
1. Base model with ethernet & USB connections
2. OJPro 8500 Wi-Fi with touch screen, wi-fi (in additition to ethernet and USB connections) & duplexing
3. OJPro 8500 Premier with touch screen, wi-fi, duplexing, touch screen, dual paper trays and 2 complete sets of ink, legal size scanning etc.
The new OJ 8500 series also uses ink that is designed to be water resistant and offer a lower cost of printing than a similarly priced laser printers.

Best Practices for new iMac

I posted a few days ago re failing HDD on mid-2007 iMac. Long story short, took it into Apple store, Genius worked on it for 45 mins before decreeing it in need of new HDD. After considering the expenses of adding memory, new drive, hardware and installation costs, I got a brand new iMac entry level (21.5" screen,
2.7 GHz Intel Core i5, 8 GB 1600 MHz DDR3 memory, 1TB HDD running Mavericks). Also got a Superdrive. I am not needing to migrate anything from the old iMac.
I was surprised that a physical disc for the OS was not included. So I am looking for any Best Practices for setting up this iMac, specifically in the area of backup and recovery. Do I need to make a boot DVD? Would that be in addition to making a Time Machine full backup (using external G-drive)? I have searched this community and the Help topics on Apple Support and have not found any "checklist" of recommended actions. I realize the value of everyone's time, so any feedback is very appreciated.

OS X has not been officially issued on physical media since OS X 10.6 (arguably 10.7 was issued on some USB drives, but this was a non-standard approach for purchasing and installing it).
To reinstall the OS, your system comes with a recovery partition that can be booted to by holding the Command-R keys immediately after hearing the boot chimes sound. This partition boots to the OS X tools window, where you can select options to restore from backup or reinstall the OS. If you choose the option to reinstall, then the OS installation files will be downloaded from Apple's servers.
If for some reason your entire hard drive is damaged and even the recovery partition is not accessible, then your system supports the ability to use Internet Recovery, which is the same thing except instead of accessing the recovery boot drive from your hard drive, the system will download it as a disk image (again from Apple's servers) and then boot from that image.
Both of these options will require you have broadband internet access, as you will ultimately need to download several gigabytes of installation data to proceed with the reinstallation.
There are some options available for creating your own boot and installation DVD or external hard drive, but for most intents and purposes this is not necessary.
The only "checklist" option I would recommend for anyone with a new Mac system, is to get a 1TB external drive (or a drive that is at least as big as your internal boot drive) and set it up as a Time Machine backup. This will ensure you have a fully restorable backup of your entire system, which you can access via the recovery partition for restoring if needed, or for migrating data to a fresh OS installation.

Use older 2008 iMac as second monitor for new iMac

Hi all,
I have one of these older machines that has no real purpose
http://support.apple.com/kb/sp485
but would serve me very well as a second monitor for my brand spanking new iMac.
The specs seem to note that there is a video output - but I'm not seeing anything about video IN.
Is it possible to use this older iMac as a monitor?

that looks cool, and there is a free trial.
I am not keen on using the WiFi to do this - my old iMac has firewire but the new one doesn't.
Besides using the ludicrously expensive Thunderbolt <-> Firewire 800 convertor
http://store.apple.com/uk/product/MD464ZM/A/thunderbolt-to-firewire-adapter
is there any other way to create a wired connection between these devices? I'm not sure if there is such a thing as a USB <-> USB network connection.

Cable to connect old iMac as second screen for new iMac

Just bought the new iMac 27" with thunderbolt port. I understand I can hook up my old iMac (24" Mid 2007) and use it as second monitor. My challenge is confirming that, and then figuring out which cable to use.
The manual says the old iMac has a "Mini-DVI video out port", making it sound like it won't accept input. True?
If it will indeed accept input, what cable do I use to connect the two Macs?
If indeed I can't use the second iMac, I'll purchase a separate monitor. What should I look for in monitors that will easily attach to the thunderbolt-only new iMac? I won't be buying the Apple monitor.
Thanks for any help in advance.
Bob

Most new monitors will support standard DVI and VGA connections. Some may support Mini-DVI ports. That's about all I can tell you.
As for other factors I would look at monitor reviews - as many as you can - for the size and resolutions in which you are interested. There are a lot of products out there. You might try first doing a Google search to learn more about the meanings of the various specs the manufacturers provide so you might wade through the smoke and mirrors in search of meaningful information.

Windows 7 or 8.1 for new iMac 27 in?

Just got a new iMac 27 inch about a week ago. I am new to Mac and still need to have access to Windows for some games and also want to use Office 2013 full MS version. I have purchased Parallels 9 and am currently testing with Windows 8.1 Preview version.
Now ready to purchase a full sytem builder Windows version to install and wondering which may be best, Windows 7 or newer Windows 8.1? Are there that many improvements or new features in 8.1 that i should go with the newest version? Has anyone else recently installed one of these with Parallels?
Thanks!

Just get Office for Mac instead of the Windows version, it doesn't make any sense at all to use the WIndows version. As for your games it doesn't matter what you get, Windoze is Windoze, just be prepared to keep it save by running anitvirus softare and any other tools you need to keep it running OK. Don't worry about the OS X side though, even if the WIndows side becomes diseased it will not affect OS X.

Power converter required for new iMac?

I have taken my new iMac to Germany. The provided power cord does not have a converter like the Mac laptops have. Do I need to purchase a power converter that will step down the voltage when plugging into the outlets in Germany, or is there a control on the computer to adjust for the increased voltage?

To add additional clarification, I understand that I will need a plug adapter and have used one before without issue for my macbook laptop as the provided cord allows for switching the plug end to match the european outlets. The converter box on the cord (the white box) then steps down the voltage so the laptop can run safely being powered by the 220v outlet. The new desktop iMac, as I mention above, has a cord without the converter box. I am concerned that if i just use a plug converter, the computer will not be able to handle the additional voltage.

Suggestions for new iMac, hard drive and Thunderbolt vs FW800 vs USB3?

Ordering a new iMac 27" and leaning toward fusion drive, and wondering if anyone has any suggestion or experiance with this drive? Any suggestions for drives would be welcome.
I am going to have to decide what to do as far as storage and I assume USB3 will be the best choice - been using FW800 and lots of new things coming.
Thanks for any input and suggestions.
Don

anybody have any comments on the use of Thunderbolt vs USB3? I am using FW800 not and will be changing my 2 external drives. I have to keep FW800 on them so I am able to daisey-chain them. My use is normal and wondering if I should stay with USB3 & FW800 for external or make the TM drive a Thunderbolt. Those seem to be priced higher just wanted some suggestions, recommendations.
Thanks,
Don

Line-in mic for new iMac.

I'm like 2-days new to mac-using so stay with me here.
I just got the new iMac 24" 2.4ghz.
I'm having a hard time getting my Logitech standard-in (non-USB) mic to work. The headphones work while plugged in, but the mic doesn't seem to be working. I can get the mic to work on my PC, but I don't have any other mics to try on this Mac.
Anyway: I go System Preferences-> Sound-> Input.
When the built in mic is selected the input level will display incoming sounds. But when I switch over to the line-in with my mic plugged into the line-in I get nothing. Do I maybe have to allow access for this jack to work?
My mic is not muted.
If it means anything: when I am unplugging the mic the input level will display some incoming sound, but only right after jacking-out (hehe). I was able to playback the sound that was being input and it just likes like a book was dropped on the floor. Not anything loud, just a short soft "thud".
I appreciate all ideas, thanks.

The audio-in port on Mac computers requires a line level input. Most PC mics don't work with a Mac unless you run them through a preamp, such as iMic, to boost the signal to line-level.

¿I need antivirus for new iMac (2012)?

It's my first Mac. I want to say if antivirus is necessary in the 2012 new iMac (21'5 ").
If I need one, tell me about the best antivirus and where I download it, please.
Thanx!

This comment applies to malicious software ("malware") that's installed unwittingly by the victim of a network attack. It does not apply to software, such as keystroke loggers, that may be installed deliberately by an attacker who has hands-on access to the victim's computer. That threat is in a different category, and there's no easy way to defend against it. If you have reason to suspect that you're the target of such an attack, you need expert help.
All versions of OS X since 10.6.7 have been able to detect known Mac malware in downloaded files. The recognition database is automatically updated once a day; however, you shouldn't rely on it, because the attackers are always at least a day ahead of the defenders. In most cases, there’s no benefit from any other automated protection against malware. Starting with OS X 10.7.5, there has been another layer of built-in malware protection, designated "Gatekeeper" by Apple. By default, applications and Installer packages downloaded from the network will only run if they're digitally signed by a developer with a certificate issued by Apple. Software certified in this way hasn't actually been tested by Apple (unless it comes from the Mac App Store), but you can be sure that it hasn't been modified by anyone other than the developer. His identity is known, so he could be held legally responsible if he distributed malware. For most practical purposes, applications recognized by Gatekeeper as signed can be considered safe.
Note, however, that there are some caveats concerning Gatekeeper:
It can be disabled or overridden by the user.
It can be bypassed by some third-party networking software, such as BitTorrent clients and Java applets (see below.)
It only applies to software downloaded from the network. Software installed from a CD or other media is not checked.
For more information about Gatekeeper, see this Apple Support article. That being said, the best defense against malware is your own intelligence. All known malware on the Internet that affects a fully-updated installation of OS X 10.6 or later takes the form of so-called "trojan horses," which can only have an effect if the victim is duped into running them. If you're smarter than the malware attacker thinks you are, you won't be duped. That means, primarily, that you never install software from an untrustworthy source. How do you know a source is untrustworthy?
Any website that prompts you to install a “codec,” “plug-in,” or “certificate” that comes from that same site, or an unknown one, is untrustworthy.
A web operator who tells you that you have a “virus,” or that anything else is wrong with your computer, or that you have won a prize in a contest you never entered, is trying to commit a crime with you as the victim. (Some reputable websites did legitimately warn users who were infected with the "DNSChanger" malware. That exception to this rule no longer applies.)
“Cracked” copies of commercial software downloaded from a bittorrent are likely to be infected.
Software with a corporate brand, such as Adobe Flash Player, must be downloaded directly from the developer’s website. No intermediary is acceptable.
Java on the network (not to be confused with JavaScript, to which it's not related) is a weak point in the security of any operating system. If a Java web plugin is not installed, don't install it unless you really need it. If it is installed, you should disable it (not JavaScript) in your web browsers. Few websites have Java content nowadays, so you won’t be missing much. This setting is mandatory in OS X 10.5.8 or earlier, because Java in those obsolete versions has known security flaws that make it unsafe to use on the Internet. The flaws will never be fixed. Regardless of version, experience has shown that Java can never be fully trusted, even if no vulnerabilities are publicly known at the moment.
Follow these guidelines, and you’ll be as safe from malware as you can reasonably be.
Never install any commercial "anti-virus" or "Internet security" products for the Mac, as they all do more harm than good. If you need to be able to detect Windows malware in your files, use the free software ClamXav — nothing else.
Why shouldn't you use commercial "anti-virus" products?
Their design is predicated on the nonexistent threat that malware may be injected at any time, anywhere in the file system. Malware is downloaded from the network; it doesn't materialize from nowhere.
In order to meet that nonexistent threat, the software duplicates low-level functions of the operating system, which is a waste of resources and a common cause of instability and poor performance.
By modifying the system, the software itself may create weaknesses that could be exploited by malware attackers.
ClamXav doesn't have these drawbacks. That doesn't mean it's entirely safe. Using it to delete or move email messages can corrupt the Mail database. Such messages must be deleted from within the Mail application. ClamXav is not needed for protection against OS X malware. It's useful only for detecting Windows malware. If you don't need to do that, avoid it. Windows malware can't harm you directly. Just don't pass it on to anyone else.
It seems to be a common belief that the built-in Application Firewall acts as a barrier to infection, or prevents malware from functioning. It does neither. It blocks inbound connections to certain network services you're running, such as file sharing. It's disabled by default and you should leave it that way if you're behind a router on a private home or office network. Activate it only when you're on an untrusted network, like a public Wi-Fi hotspot, where you don't want to provide services. Disable any services you don't use.

Fax modem for new iMacs

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