"Film Look" effect

Am I crazy or did the iMovie '09 feature list on Apple's site used to mention a Film Look effect? I was so excited to get iLife to use that effect and it is nowhere to be found. Did anyone else happen to see that feature listed previously?

I only see the Aged Film and Film Grain. I am sure I read something about how iMovie '09 would change the FPS to 24 (like motion picture film cameras) and modify the picture to simulate that "Film Look". Maybe I am just crazy.

Similar Messages

Creating a film look in Final Cut Pro 3

I have finished editing my short in and some of the images are too harsh; please advise me on how I can get a more film like look. I shot the short on a Sony PD-150 and edited it on Final Cut Pro 3 using a G4 and running OS X. 2.6
A friend suggested using a filter like Magic Bullet, which doesn't work on OS X. 2.6. Someone else suggested rendering it in 30 frames per second but don't know how to do that in FCP.
G4 Mac OS X (10.2.x)

You're not going to be able to make magic happen with DV footage on final cut 3. Film has a generally softer and murkier look than video, so try bringing down the harsher higlights and desaturing colors somewhat. You're just going to have to play arround with the the filters and color corrector, and eyeball it on a broadcast monitor.
As far as frame rate is concerned, there's nothing you can do. DV is 29.97fps, film is 24fps. Simply changing the framerate (especially to 30) won't make it look more film like. 24 fps pulldown needs to happen in camera to achieve such an effect.
If you're interested in something like Magic Bullet (which you'll have far better luck with), you'll have to find someone who has it.
Honestly, my advice would be to worry about your film looking good more than worry about your film looking like film.

Film Look ...

Hi,
I have been racking my brains as to figure out how to give that 'film look' to PAL video in FCE. Using a clip, I 'selected all' and went into video effects to find de-interlace (or is 'interlace' that I need) ... I clicked on de-interlace and nothing happened.
Is someone going to tell me that PAL is already de-interlaced? Have I got my terminology all wrong?
If so, how can I get the effect I'm looking for?
Thanks for your expertise!

Doing a forum search would give you a plethora of results from people asking about the "film look", so please do your research; that having been said, I think you'll find that Nattress Film Effects is your answer. It's not free, but considering its performance, its completely worth it.
http://www.nattress.com/

Mixing Frame Rates and Creating Old Film Look?

Hello, I'm working with AVCHD footage which is 59.94 fps and have made my sequence settings at this frame rate. I've dragged in a few clips 23.98fps, 24fps, 25fps and 29.97fps, I'm attempting to give it a old film look so was going to render out at 14 fps as this is what 8mm is filmed at, I've never worked with mixed rates so any advice as to whether this is going to work? Should I have my sequence setting at my highest frame rate and the majority of the video is 59.94fps? would it work exporting at 14 or 16 fps?

I've never worked with mixed frame rates, but for the old film look, I like the Posterize Time effect set to 18 (one of the two standards for Super 8 that my camera had) and use Magic Bullet Misfire.

I know.. not another film look question, but here is goes...

Hi all i hope you can help me here.
Im used to doing safety, corporate, induction videos so Ive never been interested in getting the "film look" But now Ive got a music video to do and i really don't want it to look interlaced.
Now i did some test on my HVX200 25p, and read up on it a little. Which brought me to my question.
I know that when shooting with real film cameras AND HD 25p cameras there is the rule not to pan very fast because it becomes jittery. But when i did my tests outside with my HVX200 25p PAL on a tripod (no panning) my footage seem a whole lot more jittery that film movies i see on tv. Its so jittery i cant use the footage! im to scared to do the music video on 25p.
So now i want to know, am i doing something wrong? Is the shutter speed or the way you capture in FCP got anything to do with the jittery? Or is 25p just that jittery?
Another question. Does anybody have some tips to get a better look and feel to my music video? plug ins? or whatever?
Thanks so much for your replies.
Andre Meyer

Hi Meyer,
The reason I said your video still looks jittery is because you have not graded or used any additional adaptors on your cam. Turning on a progressive shutter alone will just make your VIDEO look like 24/25P video! The movement is greatly exaggerated! The point I was trying to make is that once you have graded your footage and if you are lucky enough to use a 35mm adaptor, much of that jitteriness (if that’s a word?!) will not be so noticeable. Remember, if it goes away completely, you are back to square one almost! Its about how acceptable you can get with the 3 components I was talking about in my previous post.
I dont own an HVX200, but I have a V1E (not as good as the HVX200) and I find the cinema Gamma not that great as a default.. I have to tweak it quite a lot to achieve the all important contrast and saturated colours. As for your HVX, just have a play until u get a look u like. The Cinema Gammas on the Cheaper Canons are dreadful and make the cam lose all their contrast! I guess this varies a lot with the mid-priced prosumer cams?!
You don’t need to own a 5D MkII (an ergonomic disaster in my opinion unless u have the full rail kit!) to have that 35mm DOF control. There are quite a few 35mm adaptors out there that have attachments for many types of video cameras. There are users in this forum I think that use these types of adaptors with the HVX200’s. However, such equipment is not cheap.. and of course a good quality stills lens’s are not exactly cheap either!
So to summarise:
1. Use a progressive frame rate 24/25P
2. Colour Grade to film... Best bet is to use Apple Colour... this is a really good colour corrector which has various preset that’s you can tweak and work pretty good as the film look. Of course you will need to experiment to get the effect u want. Alternatively, you can use Magic Bullet Looks.. which can be use used as a Plug-in to FCP, and is like Apple Colour on Steroids! It doesn’t offer the same amount of control as Color, but has some really interesting presets that can be easily tweaked.. and the good things is, this is all done without leaving FCP.. so its quick.
3. If you want to go the whole way and go for a 35mm adaptor.. then do your home work. Do you currently own a select of still lenses? Canon L series or Nikon Pro series? Of course u don’t need the pro lenses, but in this set up the quality of your stills lens becomes really critical! Take a look on YouTube and see the effect these adapter give, they can be quite amazing! Be prepared to spend over £2500 for the adaptor alone!
4. And of course, remember technique when shooting like this.. these adaptors do stop down your camera, you will probably have less light to play with. When u r tracking etc, DOF is really critical and can be difficult to master at first.
I don’t have any 35mm adapter, i try to achieve the film look by using steps 1 and 2..the result, well... its ok but often means I have to mess about with camera distances sometimes to achieve a decent DOF. Swings a roundabouts!

How to get this kind of film look?!

How to get the film look like in this video:
I shoot on the canon 60d with multiple lenses.
Thanks.

Thanks for the answers, finally I've got the result. May be it'll be useful for other people:
So i've used one popular magic plugin for adjusting look with default presets and lowered fps with default effect "Posterize time".
Good luck

Film look and final presentation techniques

I have a feature film that is in the final stages of editing. I recently got the Final Cut Studio package with FCP 5, Studio Pro 4, Motion, Soundtrack, etc.
The movie was shot on DV and looks about as good as it could. I know there are a lot of 'film look' techniques out there, some of them work, some of them look terrible. Unfortunately I don't have the time to experiment at this point, so if anybody can point me in the right direction it would be appreciated.
I also have a copy of Magic Bullet from a couple years ago, but I don't know much about the program. I'm pretty good about figuring these things out with a nudge, though.
Thanks.

Magic bullet does good stuff. There is a new version of that due out soon.
Also go to www.nattress.com and look at the Film Effects filters.
Cinelook is another route.
Welcome to the forums, BTW.
And it would be good if you could do a search for your topic next time, as this question comes up at least once daily, if not twice.

Film look help

Does anyone know of any film look software that will work with ppro cs3? I was using magic bullet movie looks with my ppro 1.5 version but it doesn't work with cs3. I really need to age a few of my shots for effect. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

WMM should get you close and with a few more Effects back in PrPro, you can probably find what you want. Other than WMM Exporting to DV-AVI Type I, instead of Type II, you should not have a problem. PrPro usually handles Type I's pretty well. When there is a slip up, it's often OOS. This is fixed pretty easily, but you may want to keep your existing Audio, and just use the Video output from WMM.
ProDAD's Vitascene has some of the effects that constitute an aged film look. It's farily cheap, and DigitalJuice has had several of the ProDAD plug-in "on sale." Don't know what they are offering right now. Last time that I checked, it was their music/SFX libraries, but it changes often.
Good luck,
Hunt

Film Look Tutorial

Jeff Bellune has just completed a new TUTORIAL for using AVISynth to get a "Film Look" from Video.
Hope that this helps someone.
Good luck,
Hunt

Also remember, a "film look" goes beyond just shooting at 24p. Many other aspects, such as lighting, DOF (Depth of Field) and effective shutter angle, can all contribute to the filmic feel of the video.
Hunt

Film look 2.35 problem new preset cs6

ON ROLE HERE GUYS, ANOTHER QUESTION. I created a new preset 1920x816 for the film look wide screen aspect ratio. When i drag the footage in the timeline it does not fit the screen in the monitor? I have to ctrl alt and drag sideways for it to fit the screen in the monitor. Default scale to frame is checked. What am i doing wrong, anyone... steve England.

Edit in the normal 1920 x 1080 sequence and use this:
http://www.behance.net/wip/118543/239113?share=1&sid=bu2dlapnel6qa13efl8l99sd91
You can crop on export for computer viewing, or add a Crop effect for DVD/BD creation.
http://forums.adobe.com/thread/1010578?tstart=60

Faulty film projector effect

Howdy,
I'm looking to add a 'faulty film projector' effect to a video I'm cutting (remember when the old films you had to watch in health class suddenly came off the projector? I'm looking to recreate that jerkiness). I know - it's cheesy. But that's what the client wants.
Do you know where I might be able to find such a plug-in?
Thanks in advance.
G5: 1.6 Ghz/256/80/Superdrive Mac OS X (10.4)

CineLook2 plug-in
http://www.digieffects.com/products.shtml#C2
CineLook2 is available, and will support After Effects and Final Cut Pro. DigiEffects have sped up the slowest segments of the plug-in, allowing you to render smoothed grain as much as eleven times faster.
DigiEffects have also built in FilmMotion inside of CineLook2, so you don't have to pre-compose your projects in two stages anymore. As well as FilmMotion, they have included Interlace Reduction and a built-in colored gradient in the main CineLook2 plug-in.
CineLook2 also supports unusual frame rates, such as 10 FPS, 12 FPS, 16 FPS, etc... It will support PAL or NTSC sources, and now can add RGB, Monochrome, HSV, CMYK, or YUV grain!
The Custom UI now features a widescreen preview mode so you can get a much better glimpse of the grain as you are working on your clips. The Custom Grain UI also dissects each stage of the grain processing so you can see the influence of each layer of grain and smoothness as it gets added to your input.
Also included with CineLook2 are these other plug-ins:
AcidWash, Adaptive Grain, Banding Reducer, Bleach Bypass, Day for Night, Film Flash, Film Motion (integrated or separate), Fingerprints, Gate Weave, Grain Reducer, Handwritten Text, Letterbox, Light Leaks, SkinnyLook, Soft Focus, Solarize, Vignette - Of course, you also get their award-winning Film Damage plug-in, as well!
Powerbook G4 1.33GHz Mac OS X (10.4.6) 2 GB RAM + I want Seagate Momentus 5400.3 160GB HD

Film Look in FCPHD from PAL miniDV

Hi everyone...
So, I shot a documentary on Pal miniDV (25fps). I'm hoping to achieve a more film-ish look.
I know that you can do this through Adobe After Effects by playing with the gamma curve and creating a small amount of motion blur - http://www.dvinfo.net/articles/filmlook/broadway1.php - though this deals with NTSC rather than PAL.
I have a couple of questions relating to the use of pal here, and I'd really appreciate the help from someone who's more experienced than I (which means just about everyone!)
(1) Does anyone have any comments about creating a more filmish look for PAL minidv rather than NTSC minidv? Is there a preferred method for PAL? With the frame rate at 25fps, you're theoretically 'closer' to film there, but what else can I do and what do I need to do differently?
(2) Is there a way of creating the film look in FCP directly without going over to Adobe After Effects? And does anyone have any opinions about the dis/advantages of the various methods for creating a film look?
(3) If I had to move over to Adobe After Effects to create the filmish look, I'd prefer to stay there to color correct. Anyone have any ideas about the dis/advantages of FCP's against AfterEffects's color correction tools?
If anyone can refer me to any articles with step-by-step instructions about creating the film look, I'd really appreciate that. There seem to be so many different ideas.
Okay, so I know I'm asking a lot and I apologise ...
Thanks so much!
Richard, Los Angeles

Hi Richard,
Part one of the dvinfo net article you referenced is to do with reproducing the motion signature that results when you add pulldown to 24fps film to get to 30fps for NTSC output. It does not apply to PAL footage. In PAL land, material shot at 25fps is simply slowed down to 24fps when printed to film (and vice versa for film material that is bound for video or TV).
So to repeat, pulldown motion signature is not really an issue for PAL projects (I say not really because it can be done, but the speed change is more commonly applied).
In your case however you are not concerned with frame rate changes, I don't think, you just want to apply a film look to your video. There are a number of ways to do this and by all accounts the Nattress filters are top notch for the price.
I'm sure you checked out part two of the article you referred to above, which is the real meat of the piece, so to speak. Personally I prefer to do this kind of curve/saturation/unsharpening etc in After Effects, although you I believe you can do all of this with equivalent filters in FCP. It's a matter of personal choice and AE has a fairly steep learning curve if you're not familiar with it already. If you have AE 6.5, however, check out the included Color Finesse colour correction suite, which is almost a standalone application and is pretty great. In my opinion it's better than AE's colour correction window but again it's a matter of choice as you can do pretty much everything you'll need to in both (especially for DV material).
Someone spoke of applying Motion Blur in the FCP motion tab - forget about that, that applies to blurring composited objects moving across the screen and will have no effect if applied to an entire layer of video. You could experiment with blur filters to soften your video slightly but if you're going this route the Nattress filters will probably be easier.
Good luck with your project!
Edit: on reading your post again I notice you're in LA - so I suppose you DO intend transferring your PAL material to NTSC. D'oh! Mea culpa - in that case as mentioned above I suppose conforming to 24fps then adding pulldown to get to 30fps is the way to go and will automatically give you the motion signature you require. I assume you can do this in Cinema Tools (not familiar with it) but you can also do it in AE by simply interpreting your footage in AE as 24fps and then adding pulldown.

Why can't my HD to SD SHORT film look good? Best Encode?

I have a 12 minute short film on HDV. I imported it to FCP5 and then DVDSP4 and created an HD-DVD and it looked GREAT. Then I found out my computer is pretty much the only DVD player that can play the HD-DVD I had created. Thus began my journey to make a decent SD-DVD, and so far I am not even close...
HERE'S WHAT I'M DOING:
1. I used FCP to downconvert from HDV to DV (I don't have access to the camera to use it downconvert option). I'm sure this step is where the quality drops at least 4 generations!
2. DVDSP5 > Preferences > Mode: Two Pass VBR, Bit Rate: 5.5, Max Bit Rate: 8.5, Motion Est: Best
IMAGE PROBLEM:
Lots of pixelation in darker areas of the screen. Places i could see in HD are now just black and pixelated black at that.
TWO QUESTION:
1. My main annoyance is this: When I burn the DVD, it only burns about 20% of the DVD (HD-DVD would use 60%). I have the space on my DVD-R, why can't I utilize this space and burn 90% of this space with data to make my film look good?
2. iDVD did a better job of making the SD DVD look good. So I know there is something i could do. I've never used Compressor. How can I encode my HDV for use in SD DVD environement in DVDSP5?
Any help will be much appreciated... I hope answers to these questions helps others as well...
Best,
AJ

AJ -
Thanks for your reply -I hope i can clarify below.
Yes i have been editing the sequences using native HDV 1080i.
When comparing the output of the converted formats here is what i did.
I have a Sony a HC1 HDV Camcorder. I captured and edited all clips with native HDV. Then i recorded back the HDV material back into the camera (HUGE issues with doing this in FCP - but ill leave that to another thread)
From there i did two things
1) I sent the native HDV Final Cut sequence to compressor and set it to DVD, 90Min, Best quality, 2pass VBR. I burned a DVD with DVDSP4 with this encoded sequence
2) i played back the HDV Sequence from my sony camcorder back into the television directly - but using the composite video output (not using the high definition component output).
3) I set my Sony HDV cam to output via firewire as standard DV (eg - i let the camera do its own HDV to DV downconvert). from there i recaptured back into FCP, compressed with the same compressor settings, and sent to DVDSP4
I compared side by side the content from all three options. Hands down Options 2 and 3 looked MUCH better than option 1.
Here is what i noticed
1) A lot of motion artifacts with option 1. This especially when the camera pans and moves. I think this has to do with the way interlacing during downconversion happens. If i run the FCP sequence through a de-interlace filter it actually does come out better - though not as smooth since you are loosing 1/2 the frames.
2) A lot of digital artifacts. pixellation and such like. It looks almost like one of those old VCDs in terms of image quality.
I had searched the forums and found that many other people are having the same problems - so i know that i am not alone on this one (unfortunately). I do find it frustrating that a very expensive >$1000 application suite which claims to support HD has so many issues with editing in HD (this is just one of the issues.. others are that you cannot reliably export HDV back to tape, there are issues with editing multi-cam with HDV with more than 3 sequences... etc..).

How many frames should I cut out each second to get a old film look?

Hi,
What is the general rule of thumb (if their is one) of how many frames should be cut every second to achieve a choppy old film look? Or maybe it's not every second? What do you guys do?

you will get a more realistic look if you chop out frames manually
dump the playhead arbitrarily on the time line insert a cut nudge the playhead either i or 2 frames on and cut again discard the frames and either leave the black or butt the clips up for a "skip".
this really doesn't take long to do and is better than a predetermined sequence of chops made by a filter.
CGM do a free filter for aged film to add the hairs, navel lint, boogers etc . .

Frame blending and Film look

Hi everyone,
I'm editing a moutain bike video shot with a sony HDR FX1 in HD and imported as SD.
Editing is finished and if I preview the video on my computer screen its just fine, but if viewed on a TV it has of course that artificial digital look far away from film. now, I noticed that the portions of clips that have been slowed down to 50% and used "frame blending" do look a lot better... by better I mean, they loose a bit of that digital "sharpness". I also played with gamma and colors but I think that the "frame blending" adds a sort of "softness.
I was wondering: if I duplicate my sequence, overlap the original with it's duplicate and play abit with blur (or else?) and make it let's say 30% transparent... would that help?
any suggestions?
I've seen a skiing video presented on QT website shot in HD and compressed H264... and it has that perfect film look.
Would love to know your thoughts.
Thanks
Ciao

Ok,
this is the procedure I courageously undertook:
1. duplicate of my sequence
2. added to the new sequence a level 4 blurr
3. played with color and gamma levels
4. overlapped the two sequences
5. adgusted transparency of the copy sequence according to the different portions of clips... some may result too dark. Transparency goes from 50 to 75%
Result: clearly a less digital look - closer to film -smooth
Downsides: loss of luminosity - everytime I change transparency it takes about 5 hours to render and if it doesn't look how you want it, you have to add another 5 hours.
Raises a problem: on TV it has a look and on a computer screen it has another. Consequently you have to create two separate files according to where you want to play it!
I'm sure there is a better way to do it.

"Film Look" effect

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