FiOS Quantum Speed Problem

Several months ago we upgraded to FiOS Quantum. Our Internet speed has not improved at all, in fact recently the quality has become worse. This is very frustrating because we have been paying the extra $10 a month. Normally, there is one computer, and three phones connected to the wireless network. Recently, the phones haven't been connecting to the network, the phone says avoided poor connection. So last cycle, we used too much data because we weren't aware our phones weren't connecting to WiFi. Wireless downloads max out at 2MB/s, and that's on a good day. Usually wireless downloads hover around 500-800 KB/s. When I connect my computer directly to the router with an ethernet cable, the max download speed I have seen is 7MB/s. This is very annoying because we are currently paying for 50/25MB/s. I saw that there is a better router with a red band and two antennas, and I'm not sure if that is supposed to come with FiOS Quantum or not, but if so we do not have that one. We have a router with a silver band and one antenna. Hopefully I can resolve this issue soon, but if not we are definitely going to cancel the plan.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

GreyXephos wrote:
I don't want to have to plug in an ethernet cable to have good internet. Even plugged in its not as fast as advertised and I've been paying for better internet speeds for months. What I'm asking for is if I was supposed to get the router with the red band and double antenna but didn't, and if that will help my situation.
Okay. So just to ensure, you're seeing 7MB/s correct? If so, that is roughly 55Mbps on the download. ISPs like Verizon sell speed tiers in terms of Megabits. When you see a download rate, most are expressed in Megabytes. There are 8 bits to a byte, so with that said, while wired you are getting what you pay for. 55MB/s is nearly a half of a Gigabit, which would mean you would have to pay for Verizon's 500Mbps tier to hit those kinds of speeds.
For router supplied, the ActionTec Rev. I is supplied to those who pay for 150Mbps or more, since the router includes a Gigabit Ethernet switch. It does come with wireless N support, but only at 2.4Ghz and 130Mbps throughput. You can expect half of that 130Mbps under the best conditions. You can buy one, or ask Verizon to give you one with a monthly rental fee. My advice is to just get an access point or another router and simply hang it off the ActionTec to get better wireless as IMO, the Rev. I ActionTec has poor wireless. Otherwise, my recommendation is to wire up.
========
The first to bring me 1Gbps Fiber for $30/m wins!

Similar Messages

Fios quantum gateway router problem

Hello, when I connect my coaxial cable and power adaptor to my old verizon mi424wr router, the internet works fine. But when I connect my coxial cable and the power adapter that came with the fios quantum gateway router, the internet doesn't work. On the router, the internet icon keeps blinking white for about a minute, then it just becomes a solid non-blinking red internet icon. Assisstance would be greatly appreciated.
Solved!
Go to Solution.

Your problem may be that you didn't release your WAN IP address before switching routers. It's necessary to do so.
To release your IP address you could power off the new router, wait 2 hours, or overnight if that's more convenient, and then power the router back on.
Or to release the IP address more quickly, with the Actionec in place, follow the steps in this link:
http://forums.verizon.com/t5/FiOS-Internet/How-am-I-able-to-change-my-ip-address/m-p/703336#M47733
After releasing your WAN IP, wait about 10 minutes and then fire up the Quantum router. You should have a new WAN IP address and be connected back to the Internet.

I recently upgraded to Fios Quantum and have a new ActionTech router. As a result my PC is no longer communicating with my APPLE TV.It must have a firewall or ports beegin blocked preventing the homesharing and communication even though the APPLE TV is on

I recently upgraded to Verizon Fios Quantum high speed internet and was given an ActionTec router. I sucessfully installed all and connected wth my Apple TV. Although it worked initially it no longer does. Something appears to be blocking the Homesharing between my PC and the AppleTV even though the Apple TV is successfully connected to my home network. I spoke with an Apple Support Tech who was unable to help me becuase I have a PC! He admitted this is a common problem with FIOS and PCS. There must be a port that needs to be opened in the router. I do not beleive it is anything to do with my antivirus software or Windows Defender as i uninstalled all and still not communication. Must be a port within the routter that is blocking tis communication. On my Itunes you can see that it does not see the Apple TV. Please advise.

I'd have to agree. I set my vms and two clients on Saturday in one hour. I think the picture is better I did not see an issue with the brightness. For the heck of it I recorded five channels at once to test it. I've also noticed when playing a recorded show on the client everything responds a lot quicker. So I am impressed and curious to see what new features come later.
Kudos to verizon.

You can bridge the Fios Quantum Gateway Router

Long story short. I could not figure out how to disable SIP on the Fios Gateway Router and some my Intercom Video Door station in use by my Control4 uses SIP. The router was causing conflicts and Control4 advised that SIP needs to be disabled on the router. Disabling SIP is a very common answer to people using IP based video conferencing or VOIP phones. That left me with 2 choices. Get the Fios Quantum Gateway to bridge and install my own router where SIP can be disabled, or get rid of Fios and use an ISP that does not require a combo "modem"/router. I didn't want to give up on Fios so easily. My installation was new and I am happy with the uptime and performance. I spent 2 days trying to get my Fios Quantum Gateway to Bridge. I am writing this up so that someone else doesn't have to live the pain I've lived. First up, after multple days of looking, their are limited instructions on getting the Fios Quantum Gateway router to bridge. The instructions you can find are for the Actiontec router. It's "almost" the same router but not 1:1. Most step by step guides say that the steps for the Actiontec will work for a FIos Quantum Gateway. That's not inaccurate, but isn't fully accurate either. Their are steps involved in the Acitontec instructions that do not apply to the Fios Quantum Gateway. First - this link is the baseline instructions I found that mostly work: http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r27666920-How-to-Make-Actiontec-MI424WR-Revision-I-Rev-I-a-Network All credit to the authors that came before me. I didn't discover these steps. I hijacked them and tested them with some revisions for a Fios Quantum Gateway router. I take not credit or responsbility for any action you take based on my post. It "works for me" and continues to work after 24 hours. My please note that I am using Coax/MoCa from the ONT to the Router and that Ethernet was not an option. I am going to repost the steps verbatim, but add some notes along the way where my experience was different in bold. I highly recommend you read the entire thing one time before starting with the step-by-step. You can replace the word Actiontech with Quantum Gateway in the below. Their are subtle differences in termonligy between the Acitontec and the Quantum. If you see a step in the guide and can not follow because your Quantum doesn't have the same display, you must find the nearest equivelement or ignore it entirelly. First get your Router and Actiontec set up like so: ONT -> Coax -> Actiontec Coax Port -> Actiontec LAN Port 1 -> My Selected Router WAN Port. Unplug the cable from the WAN Port, but keep it nearby. I was actually in LAN Port 1 on the Quantum Gateway but I don't think it will actually matter.
Now we need to obtain the WAN MAC address of each Router device.
For the Actiontec go to: Top Menu – Advanced – MAC Cloning – Set Mac of Device – Broadband (Coax). Here you should see the MAC Address, write this down on a paper or something. This is critical. You need to do this. Without the clone, I was unable to bridge. Note that I did not have to STAY cloned. I just had to clone until the lease expired even though I believe I had released the IP successfully. For your own router: You need to look this up yourself. The ASUS RT-N56U (w/ custom firmware) has a spot that just displays my WAN MAC address for me. I'm using an EdgeRouter from Unfi. Nobody can help you here except the forums for the router you are using because how you do this is different from router to router (generally speaking.)
Once you have both of these pieces of information, it is time to start.
1. Hardware Reset Actiontec Router I wouldn't do this. I didn't. I would actually save a copy of the configuration you have on the router before going any further, in case you have to hardware reset and restore your router.
2. Log into Router using [ admin/password ].
3. Change admin login info and set a different password. There should be a link on the side.
4. Top Menu – My Network – Side Menu – Network Connections – Network (Home/Office) – Settings – IP Address – Setto 192.168.x.1 where x is not used on your LAN – Apply
*NOTE*: Upon changing the default gateway IP of the Actiontec from 192.168.1.1 to 192.168.x.1, you will need to [ ipconfig /release ] and [ ipconfig /renew ] from Command Prompt, so your computer can quickly reconnect to the Actiontec. I changed this to 192.168.0.5 because my DHCP starts at 50. The Fios default is 192.168.0.1 and not .1.1.
5. Log back in to Actiontec router with new IP and new password you previously set.
6. Top Menu – Wireless Settings – Side Menu – Basic Security Settings – Wireless Off – Apply 7. Top Menu – Firewall Settings – Side Menu – General – Minimum – Apply
8. Top Menu – My Network – Side Menu – Network Connections – Advanced 9. Top Menu – My Network – Side Menu – Network Connections – Broadband (Coax) – Settings – Release – Apply
*NOTE*: If your IP address is not released properly you will need to wait 2 hours for your lease to expire or you’ll need to call Verizon Tech and get them to restart your system.
10. Broadband (Coax) – Settings – IP Distribution – Disable – Apply 11. Broadband (Coax) – Settings – DNS Server – No DNS Server – Apply 12. Broadband (Coax) – Settings – IP Address – No IP Address – Apply
13. Top Menu – My Network – Side Menu – Network Connections – Network (Home/Office) – Settings – IP Distribution – Disable – Apply 14. Network (Home/Office) – Settings – DNS Server – No DNS Server – Apply 15. Network (Home/Office) – Settings – UNcheck Box to Left of Wireless – Apply
*NOTE*: The old guide will tell you to uncheck the box to the left of “Coax” here. Unfortunately, in the Rev. I, Ethernet and Coax are stuck together as “Ethernet/Coax” and you can’t split the two. If you uncheck the box to the left of “Ethernet/Coax”, you will lose connection with the Actiontec Router and you will be forced to hard reset and start all over again.
16. Network (Home/Office) – Settings – Check Box to Left of Broadband (Coax) – Apply 17. Network (Home/Office) – Settings – Check STP Box to Right of Broadband(Coax) – Apply The Quantum Gateway didn't have an STP box to uncheck. I ignored this step with no adverse effects. 18. Network (Home/Office) – Settings – Network – Broadband Connection – Apply
19. Top Menu – Advanced – MAC Cloning – Set Mac of Device – Broadband (Coax) Using the information you gathered at the beginning: a. Set the WAN MAC of your selected Router to the MAC address listed here. b. Set the Address here to the WAN MAC of your selected router that will be connected to the Actiontec to avoid conflicts.
20. Plug the cable from Actiontec LAN Port 1 to your Routers WAN Port. Your router should be getting a WAN IP from Verizon. Test to make sure your WAN is established and that you can connect onto the internet, browse pages. Run a speed test to make sure everything is peachy.
*NOTE*: If your router did not get a WAN IP, you have a problem. I would recommend trying to re-trace your steps to see if you missed anything or just start all over and hard reset. :\
21. If everything worked out fine, connect a cable from your Router’s LAN Port 4 to the Actiontec LAN port 4. Again, I was using Port 1. But it shouldn't matter. I haven't tried other ports.
22. Power cycle your STB if you wish. You should see your STB show up in your DHCP list and it should be getting VOD/Widgets. This wasn't neccessary for me as I don't use Verizion TV service. Your millage may very. -V

NOTE: about bridging the Quantum Gateway G1100 Information about this is in DSLReports.com - Verizon FiOS FAQ. SEE: Verizon Online FiOS FAQ -> 3.2 Moca -> Can I get an ethernet connection in a room with only coax? There is a list of instructions for bridging routers, but the Verizon Quantum Gateway is not included there. Follow down the instructions and at step 2.5 here is added information that is not in the FAQ yet.
Instruction 2.5...
2.5a) The Verizon Quantum Gateway G1100 is slightly different from the Actiontec MI424wr. If your primary router's broadband connection is provisioned over coax, you need to disable the remote router's coax WAN connection to prevent it from attempting to become the primary router. If your broadband connection from the ONT to your primary router is ethernet, this step may be unnecessary.
Click on the MY NETWORK icon at the top.
Select NETWORK CONNECTIONS from the menu on the left.
If you’re using the Verizon Quantum Gateway G1100 as the remote router the Network Connections panel will show Broadband Connection (Ethernet/Coax) instead of Broadband Connection (coax).
Click on Broadband Connection (Ethernet/Coax)
The next panel displays Broadband Connection (Ethernet/Coax) Properties as its title. There is a Disable button at the top of the panel. There is also a Settings button at the bottom of the panel. You will come back to the Disable button.
Click on the Settings button.
The next panel displays the same title as the prior panel: Broadband Connection (Ethernet/Coax) Properties
In the middle of the panel next to the heading Enable/Disable Coax Link: there is a button labeled Disable.
Click on Disable.
Click on the Apply button at the bottom of the panel.
You will be taken to the Broadband Connection (Ethernet/Coax) Properties panel that you saw before.
At the top of this screen there is a button labeled Disable
Click on Disable
Click on the Apply button at the bottom of the screen.

FIOS Quantum Setup

After reading all of the negative comments posted on the forum, I decided to relay my experience with the FIOS Quantum TV upgrade.
The entire process works "when you follow the directions."
I actually save money by changing my previous equipment, which consisted of 2 DVR's, replaced by one Media Server and 3 clients in the new setup.
Equipment arrived in one box, efficiently packaged, including return label for old equipment.
The new system required me to change the router which was the only semi-problem I encountered. The router was not part of the initial shipment and after calling customer service, I recieved it via one-day shipping.
Excellent guides came with the equipment, walking the customer through each and every step of the process.
It works great, and good job developing the experience for self-help customers looking to save money on installation.

rj2014 wrote:
After reading all of the negative comments posted on the forum, I decided to relay my experience with the FIOS Quantum TV upgrade.
The entire process works "when you follow the directions."
I actually save money by changing my previous equipment, which consisted of 2 DVR's, replaced by one Media Server and 3 clients in the new setup.
Equipment arrived in one box, efficiently packaged, including return label for old equipment.
The new system required me to change the router which was the only semi-problem I encountered. The router was not part of the initial shipment and after calling customer service, I recieved it via one-day shipping.
Excellent guides came with the equipment, walking the customer through each and every step of the process.
It works great, and good job developing the experience for self-help customers looking to save money on installation.
congratulations on your self installation. we had no choice on having self installation here in Maryland. was told we had to have tech installation due to this was NEW to our areas so no self installation was available.
4 hours, numerous issues not to mention service that doesn't work as advertised (pause live tv whole house and view anywhere, fios digital voice not accessible via the TV)

Fios Quantum VS Fios Wireless

I'm planning to switch to Fios double play (50/50 internet) and i have quesiton choosing the modem. I'm planning to use my own wireless modem (have powerful AC netgear router) . With this in mind, will i be good with Fios wireless router?
Fios quantum gateway, the only difference between this 2 is the wirless speed (dual band) Is this is correct ? Is there are any other benefit to with quantum gateway for my either internet or tv services?

DigitalIP wrote:
And yeah, FIOS is accessed via a modem built into the router
That's incorrect. The MI424-WR and the G1100 are MOCA (ethernet over coax) capable routers. They are not a modem/router. Just because it connects to coax, does not make it a modem. People forget that the original ethernet implementation ran over coax and did not use modems.

My FIOS App for iOS and FIOS Quantum Gateway

I have a new FIOS Quantum Gateway G1100 with a new firmware update including guest Wi-Fi. When I try to use the My FIOS App on my iPad Air 2 and then access the Router and Wi-Fi information I get an error message unable to retrieve Wi-Fi Details. When I try to manage the FIOS Quantum Gateway I get an error message IPAddress Missing for VZID. I'm also unable to access any of the router settings from this app and nothing happens when tap the > symbol.

Make sure you have the latest version of the MyFios app. It's version 3.9.2.10, which you can find on the "App Settings" menu or in the App Store's update page. Updates are handled through the App Store.
Enjoy.
If a forum member gives an answer you like, give them the Kudos they deserve. If a member gives you the answer to your question, mark the answer as Accepted Solution so others can see the solution to the problem.

WiFi extender with FIOS Quantum Gateway

Hi, I have a Netgear WN1000RP wifi booster that worked fine with my old Verizon modem/router. I recently got the new Verizon FIOS Quantum Gateway G1100 router, and the wifi booster no longer works. I read on another forum that this could be due to the MoCA standard being different. The G1100 supports MoCA 2.0; whereas, most boosters only support MoCA 1.1. According to the G1100 user manual, the G1100 supports MoCA 1.1 also, but I don't know how to set it to use MoCA 1.1 instead of MoCA 2.0. Does anyone know? Has anyone else found solutions for using a wifi booster with the G1100? Thank you!!

I am also having a similar problem. My older third generation router plays and communicates nicely with my MoCA modems around the house. They are a bit older (and I'm not sure how easy it is to get MoCA 2.0 equipment anyway), so they are probably the 1.1 standard. The new G1100 doesn't see them at all though everything else works. I assumed from the manual that 1.1 support is automatic and couldn't find anything in the configuration menus to make it downgrade to 1.1. Perhaps it is a bug in the firmware or hardware. It would be interesting to hear if others have gotten the G1100 to work with older MoCA equipment.

Why Does FIOS Quantum Offer Less than Comcast Xfinity?

It is coming time for my FIOS contract to be renewed and I am having a hard time justifying renewing it. FIOS Quantum was a huge disappointment for us because:
1. The Remote control lag is terrible, even trying all the reboots etc. IR remotes have been around for ages, this should work, AND it's ridiculous to have to shutdown and reboot all the set top boxes to fix a memory leak at this stage of programming.
2. Althoough the VMS1100 has eSATA ports, they are not enabled. You cannot export shows to a computer or an external hard drive, both of which I could do with TiVo.
3. ALthough FIOS has an app for my iPad, all I can do is "see" and set up recordings, I can't watch anything from my DVR on my iPad or a Windows PC, AND the FIOS app ONLY works when it's on the same WiFi Network as the DVR, it doesn't;t work over the Internet.
In theory at least Comcast Xfinity does all of the above.
So my question is, why should I stick with FIOS? I hve read the forums for months and there is no word from Verizon that they acknowledge these deficits to Xfinity, much less that they have any plans to address these shortfalls in the future.
Without the hope that Verizon is addressing their shortcomings, maybe it is time to move on to what seems to be the better wide area connected service.

I agree. They have stolen more of my life then that even.

Fan speed problem Power Mac G5 Dual 1.8 GHz PowerPC - please help

Please HELP, I have a fan speed problem with my Power Mac G5 Dual 1.8 GHz PowerPC
This is a NOT an Intel machine. I am running Mac OS X v10.5.8
Power Mac G5 - PowerMac 7,2 - Power PC 970 (2.2) - 1.8 GHz with 2 CPUs - L2 Cache (per CPU) 512 KB - Memory 8 GB - Bus Speed 900 MHz - Boot ROM version 5.1.5b1
I have included below Links to download a sound file (.m4a) that I recorded of the fan speed problem and both a .pdf and .spx files of my system profile.
download sound file
http://homepage.mac.com/rep3/filechute/myG5dualsFans.m4a
down load .spx file of my system preferences
http://homepage.mac.com/rep3/filechute/systemProfileREP3-G5dual.spx
down load .pdf file of my system preferences
http://homepage.mac.com/rep3/filechute/systemProfileREP3-G5dual.pdf
When did the fan problem start?
After I replaced the mother board on the computer.
Why did I replace the mother board?
Because the experts at apple agreed with my diagnosis that the major crash problems & kernel panics must have some thing to do with a logic board gone bad. They would not work on it, because this Power Mac G5 dual 1.8 GHz machine is now a legacy model.
What I have done to attempt to fix my fan speed problem? yes I checked the obvious things, here is a list:
1) yes I checked to be sure that the new mother board was the same part number as the original one, and that all things that were unplugged from the old mother board - were actually plugged into the new mother board.
2) all the fans work, I can see them spinning if I use a flashlight and look at them (cover on and off to get at some of them)
3) check all RAM to make sure: a) it was installed properly b) that the RAM worked using TechTool Pro c) even started the machine with only the original RAM that came with it.
4) I installed a Temperature monitor - to see if there was something reading as very hot inside that was causing the machine to continually run the fans at a high speed. No, no heat issues that I can see. Here are the reading from the sensors in degrees fahrenheit, 2009-10-11 16:11:01 -0500
CPU A Die Temperature: 75.7℉
CPU B Die Temperature: 81.5℉
Drive Bay: 68.9℉
Main Logic Board Air Inlet: 64.8℉
Main Logic Board Ambient: 73.6℉
Main Logic Board Backside: 76.3℉
Memory Controller Heatsink: 93.2℉
Processor Card A Ambient: 77.5℉
Processor Card B Ambient: 77.0℉
5) zapped the PRAM
6) followed the SMU reset instructions for
Power Mac G5 (Late 2004)
To reset the SMU on a Power Mac G5 (Late 2004) computer, simply do the following:
• Turn off the computer by selecting Shut Down from the Apple menu or by holding the power button until the computer turns off.
• Remove the power cord from the computer.
• Wait two minutes.
• Plug in the power cord.
• Turn on the computer.
7) followed the SMU reset instructions:
Resetting the Cuda/PMU
How to reset the PMU:
• If the computer is on, turn it off.
• Disconnect ALL cables from the computer, including peripherals and power.
• If possible, move the computer to a place where you are not standing on carpet.
• Open the case and ground yourself by touching part of the metal frame inside the computer.
• Find the Cuda or PMU button
• Press the Cuda or PMU button ONCE. Do not press the button more than once before starting the computer up again.
• Wait 10 seconds, then reconnect the cables you removed in step 2 and turn the computer on.
• If the computer still does not respond after resetting the PMU, the computer may require service from an Apple Authorized Service Provider.
8) ran disk utilities, repaired permissions
9) found a setting in the system preferences that a chat room person suggested had something to do with fan speed. In Energy Saver, under options, processor performance was set to highest, I set it to automatic - this did not change anything that I could tell - BTW I checked my other G5 (a single processor that works fine) that is the setting that that it is set to, and it is nice and quiet.
10) restarted the machine, ..
11) found a Fan Control System Update - but it did not install when I tryed to install it -
12) booted from OSX install disk and ran that disk utility
13) used OnyX to fix disk permissions, clear caches and temp items
Nope - still have the same high speed fan problem. ... PLEASE HELP!!
I have been reading in the MacInTouch reader reports - found this: some one said to use this - thermal re-calibration using the Apple Authorized Service Providers' disk - but that's not available, at least I can not find it - anyone? have an answer to finding this - or can do it for me? I am in Chicago.

The Genius at the downtown apple store said that because it's a "legacy machine" they would not work on it, .. so should I push them?
Well, I personally think that's ridiculous, I'd Push them, I'd call AppleCare & talk up the chain if need be... there the ones that have or should have that Disc... man o man... Personally I'll never visit an Apple Store again in my lifetime, maybe try an independent AASP if none of that helps!..
http://tinyurl.com/ykomqkn
Man-o-man, pop my cork before I explode on that one, if I had anything to do with it I'd close that store.

Athalon XP clock speed problem

I hav just installed a K7N2 Delta Mobo in my system, but I'm having CPU clock speed problems.
The Bios and the Infoview program both state that the CPU clock is running at 1105 Mhz. I am sure this should be 1533 Mhz for an 1800xp.
I updated the bios using MSI live update, and the first time I booted the system, the bios displayed the speed as 1533 Mhz, but on every subsequent boot up it is back down to 1105 Mhz again.
How can I get my processor to run at the correct speed?
Thanks
Trev

Sorry, just realised I have posted in the wrong forum.
Please forgive me

Extender for Fios Quantum Router

Fios quantum installed a month ago... Not crazy about ..I had better coverage with the old system. I bought the net gear 350 wireless extender because wifi coverage was poor. Didn't work. Should I buy the one Verizon sells? Hate to waste the money if they will not let me return it if doesn't work. Any suggestions. TY

The Verizon wireless extender will work as long as the extender gets the new firmware update. It should take about 10 minutes to update and connect if it has the old firmware.

K9N2 Sli Platinum + SSD OCZ Vertex 3 = Slow Speed Problem [PARTIALLY SOLVED]

Hey folks,
I have a problem with my new SSD. I only get sequential reads of 140MB/s and writes of 114MB/s.
I think it is a driver related issue. I once got faster SATA2-like speeds but cannot reproduce the system settings again... Everything back to SATA1-like speeds after reboot.
First my pc specs:
MSI K9N2 Sli Platinum, BIOS v3.9
- 6 SATAII ports by nForce 750a SLI
- 2 ESATA (External-SATA) ports (back panel) by JMB363
- Supports storage and data transfers at up to 3 Gb/s
AMD Phenom II 965 Black
Patriot PV224G8500ELKB Viper II Series DDR2 4GB (2 x 2GB, CL5 PC-8500/1066MHz)
SSD SATAIII OCZ Vertex 3, 120GB, FW v2.11
LG Internal BlueRay BH10LS30
Windows 7 Ultimate x64
I only get very slow speeds with the SSD. I tried so many things that I am getting very frustrated now, I am even thinking about getting a new board and ram just to get the SSD up to speed...
1)
I installed Win7 first with all the default settings in Windows Setup from DVD. Default "IDE ATA/ATAPI controllers" driver was "Standard AHCI1.0 Serial ATA Controller".
SSD was connected to SATA1-port, On-Chip Sata Controller AHCI enabled in BIOS, Extra RAID/IDE Controller disabled.
All fine, but whichever benchmark I used (AS SSD, HD Tune Pro, Atto Disk Benchmark, CrystalDiskMark; other tools used: DriveControllerInfo, AIDA64/Everest, CrystalDiskInfo ) I got e.g. 140MB/s Read and 114MB/s Write sequentially (CrystalDiskmark, similar with random data AND only zeros ).
Trim working (it seems) with AHCI driver. I also changed to nvstor64 driver (nforce driver setup 15.56), with is marginally faster but not what you would expect from a SATAIII drive on SATAII controller.
2)
I installed Win7 using "diskpart" (Shift-F10) during disk setup, setting a cluster size of 64k instead of default. No real change.
3)
After reinstall of Win7 x64 (again...), I changed from SATA1 port to SATA6 port, also enabled Extra Raid/IDE controller set to AHCI as well.
Nothing changed. With all settings to default in Windows (ahci default driver), I then manually updated the ahci to nvstore64 driver in Device Management, rebooted.
Then a minute later after reboot I got the following Sequential speeds with CrystalDiskMark:
273MB/s read and 137MB/s write (random data) + 274MB/s read and 220MB/s write (with zeros) !!!
While I ran this benchmark Windows came up with a message: "You must restart your computer to apply these changes - Restart Now/Restart Later".
After the previos reboot, when I changed manually from AHCI to NVSTORE, I had changed nothing in the current session, apart from running CrystalDiskMark.
I did reboot and I was back to the slow SSD speeds again = 140/114 MB/s...
4)
I have tried every possible combination of mainboard SATA ports, drivers changing with nvidia setup/manually, deleting and disabling controllers (incl BSOD and startup repair :D ), chaning bios settings around, but I just cannot get back the faster speeds
There is never any change in speed, whether I use ahci or nvstore64, whichever benchmark I use, whether random or zeros...
5)
Could the SSD be broken, something internally preventing it from faster speeds (with this one random exception)?
Could it be that my K9N2 SataPorts only allows for / reduced to SATA1 speeds?
Am I missing something with the driver setup?
Do I need additional drivers for the extra JMicron Controller when using SataPorts 5/6 ?
I have no other mainboard to test this with...
Please guys, I am going to jump out of the window if I can't fix it... :(
Thanks, Mike

Hey guys - problem 'solved':
I tested the OCZ SSD Vertex 3 120GB with following sata3 controller card http://www.lycom.com.tw/PE-115H.htm.
The card itself works immediately (needs at least PCIe x4 slot, will work slower otherwise but still faster than the OCZ SSD @sata1 with nvidia chipset).
There is some raid setup, doesn't apply to me, the boot even with the card is really only a few seconds longer and not annoying at all. Windows (7 x64) needed a driver, supplied on CD (which is cheap and making noise like h**l). The card works w/o the driver but doesn't harm to install it...
Also, just to clarify, this sata controller card did not need any specific setup at all. Just put it in, plug in sata cable (I use akasa sata3-rated), maybe change boot device in BIOS (I didn't even have to), done - booting Windows as usual.
Benchmark CDM with sata controller card Lycom PE-115H:
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/3845/cdmpe115hahci0x00.png
http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/7549/cdmpe115hahcirand.png
Speed is much better than before with nvidia chipset 750a SLI controller: sata1 (sata2 whenever it randomly worked):
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/505/cdmahci0x0.png
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/6258/cdmahci0x0sata6contnv64.png
Final thoughts:
Well, I am happy with the SSD speed now (PCIe limited to 5Gbps). However, I had to spent quite some time to get it working on my sata2-cabable mainboard. Finally, I had to buy a extra controller card to get it working reliably at speeds faster than sata1. There is hardly any useful information on why this problem occurs with (older) nvidia chipsets and OCZ (sata3) SSDs. I still think that OCZ must know about this problem, but regards this issue as low priority, while at the same time not planning on giving up on sales to people with nvidia chipsets. Maybe OCZ should just make a big sticker on the box the drives come in with something like "Does/Might not work with nvidia chipsets, please use third-party sata controller card or different SSD manufacturer". But then none of these potential customers would buy OCZ SSDs...
I will keep the sata3 controller, anyway handy to have, but return the OCZ Vertex 3 120GB and replace it with a SSD from a different manufacturer (Corsair Force GT, Patriot and OWC are not that great to get around here). The benchmarks for most people will not achieve the maximum advertised OCZ speeds anyway, so why not go with a brand that allows for some plug'n'play with some customer support.
Hope this post helps others like me with their nvidia chipset + sata1 speed problem
Cheers, Mike

Java Audio Metronome | Timing and Speed Problems

Hi all,
I’m starting to work on a music/metronome application in Java and I’m running into some problems with the timing and speed.
For testing purposes I’m trying to play two sine wave tones at the same time at regular intervals, but instead they play in sync for a few beats and then slightly out of sync for a few beats and then back in sync again for a few beats.
From researching good metronome programming, I found that Thread.sleep() is horrible for timing, so I completely avoided that and went with checking System.nanoTime() to determine when the sounds should play.
I’m using AudioSystem’s SourceDataLine for my audio player and I’m using a thread for each tone that constantly polls System.nanoTime() in order to determine when the sound should play. I create a new SourceDataLine and delete the previous one each time a sound plays, because the volume fluctuates if I leave the line open and keep playing sounds on the same line. I create the player before polling nanoTime() so that the player is already created and all it has to do is play the sound when it is time.
In theory this seemed like a good method for getting each sound to play on time, but it’s not working correctly.
At the moment this is just a simple test in Java, but my goal is to create my app on mobile devices (Android, iOS, Windows Phone, etc)...however my current method isn’t even keeping perfect time on a PC, so I’m worried that certain mobile devices with limited resources will have even more timing problems. I will also be adding more sounds to it to create more complex rhythms, so it needs to be able to handle multiple sounds going simultaneously without sounds lagging.
Another problem I’m having is that the max tempo is controlled by the length of the tone since the tones don’t overlap each other. I tried adding additional threads so that every tone that played would get its own thread...but that really screwed up the timing, so I took it out. I would like to have a way to overlap the previous sound to allow for much higher tempos.
I posted this question on StackOverflow where I got one reply and my response back explains why I went this direction instead of preloading a larger buffer (which is what they recommended). In short, I did try the buffer method first, but I want to also update a “beat counter” visual display and there was no way to know when the hardware was actually playing the sounds from the buffer. I mentioned that on StackOverflow and I also asked a couple more questions regarding the buffer method, but I haven’t received any more responses.
http://stackoverflow.com/questions/24110247/java-audio-metronome-timing-and-speed-problems
Any help getting these timing and speed issues straightened out would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Here is my code...
SoundTest.java
import java.awt.*;
import java.awt.event.*;
import javax.swing.*;
import javax.swing.event.*;
import java.io.*;
import javax.sound.sampled.*;
public class SoundTest implements ActionListener {
    static SoundTest soundTest;
    // ENABLE/DISABLE SOUNDS
    boolean playSound1 = true;
    boolean playSound2 = true;
    JFrame mainFrame;
    JPanel mainContent;
    JPanel center;
    JButton buttonPlay;
    int sampleRate = 44100;
    long startTime;
    SourceDataLine line = null;
    int tickLength;
    boolean playing = false;
    SoundElement sound01;
    SoundElement sound02;
    public static void main (String[] args) {
        soundTest = new SoundTest();
        SwingUtilities.invokeLater(new Runnable() { public void run() {
            soundTest.gui_CreateAndShow();
    public void gui_CreateAndShow() {
        gui_FrameAndContentPanel();
        gui_AddContent();
    public void gui_FrameAndContentPanel() {
        mainContent = new JPanel();
        mainContent.setLayout(new BorderLayout());
        mainContent.setPreferredSize(new Dimension(500,500));
        mainContent.setOpaque(true);
        mainFrame = new JFrame("Sound Test");
        mainFrame.setContentPane(mainContent);
        mainFrame.setDefaultCloseOperation(JFrame.EXIT_ON_CLOSE);
        mainFrame.pack();
        mainFrame.setVisible(true);
    public void gui_AddContent() {
        JPanel center = new JPanel();
        center.setOpaque(true);
        buttonPlay = new JButton("PLAY / STOP");
        buttonPlay.setActionCommand("play");
        buttonPlay.addActionListener(this);
        buttonPlay.setPreferredSize(new Dimension(200, 50));
        center.add(buttonPlay);
        mainContent.add(center, BorderLayout.CENTER);
    public void actionPerformed(ActionEvent e) {
        if (!playing) {
            playing = true;
            if (playSound1)
                sound01 = new SoundElement(this, "Sound1", 800, 1);
            if (playSound2)
                sound02 = new SoundElement(this, "Sound2", 1200, 1);
            startTime = System.nanoTime();
            if (playSound1)
                new Thread(sound01).start();
            if (playSound2)
                new Thread(sound02).start();
        else {
            playing = false;
SoundElement.java
import java.io.*;
import javax.sound.sampled.*;
public class SoundElement implements Runnable {
    SoundTest soundTest;
    // TEMPO CHANGE
    // 750000000=80bpm | 300000000=200bpm | 200000000=300bpm
    long nsDelay = 750000000;
    long before;
    long after;
    long diff;
    String name="";
    int clickLength = 4100;
    byte[] audioFile;
    double clickFrequency;
    double subdivision;
    SourceDataLine line = null;
    long audioFilePlay;
    public SoundElement(SoundTest soundTestIn, String nameIn, double clickFrequencyIn, double subdivisionIn){
        soundTest = soundTestIn;
        name = nameIn;
        clickFrequency = clickFrequencyIn;
        subdivision = subdivisionIn;
        generateAudioFile();
    public void generateAudioFile(){
        audioFile = new byte[clickLength * 2];
        double temp;
        short maxSample;
        int p=0;
        for (int i = 0; i < audioFile.length;){
            temp = Math.sin(2 * Math.PI * p++ / (soundTest.sampleRate/clickFrequency));
            maxSample = (short) (temp * Short.MAX_VALUE);
            audioFile[i++] = (byte) (maxSample & 0x00ff);
            audioFile[i++] = (byte) ((maxSample & 0xff00) >>> 8);
    public void run() {
        createPlayer();
        audioFilePlay = soundTest.startTime + nsDelay;
        while (soundTest.playing){
            if (System.nanoTime() >= audioFilePlay){
                play();
                destroyPlayer();
                createPlayer();
                audioFilePlay += nsDelay;
        try { destroyPlayer(); } catch (Exception e) { }
    public void createPlayer(){
        AudioFormat af = new AudioFormat(soundTest.sampleRate, 16, 1, true, false);
        try {
            line = AudioSystem.getSourceDataLine(af);
            line.open(af);
            line.start();
        catch (Exception ex) { ex.printStackTrace(); }
    public void play(){
        line.write(audioFile, 0, audioFile.length);
    public void destroyPlayer(){
        line.drain();
        line.close();

Thanks but you have never posted reply s0lutions before ?? And F 4 is definitely not 10 times faster as stated before I upgraded !!

WRT54gc speed problem

hy. i've got more of a question than a problem to be honest. and i must also say i understand the technical terms in networking but i ain't that good and i'm sorry if i can't really make myself clear.
until about 5 days ago my Internet Connection was made through a modem which was connected to the router thus having internet to 4 computers (2 LAN, 2 Wireless). during this time, my router was configured with Automatic DHCP (or something like that) and a MAC clone of my PC.during this time and after about 4 years of fidelity , my internet connection was of about 6MB => ~700kbs download.
now, my ISP provider "upgraded" my connection and have direct cable connection. anyway, i now have a user name & a password. i switched the connection type to PPoE but i did not change anything else. the other settings are the same: MAC clone, open ports,Wireless MAC filters.
So here is my problem:
-if my PC is directly connected to the internet, i can achieve an efective download speed of 10 MBs (100 Mb connection or something like that) and upload speed of 1,6 MBs (12 Mb connection)
-if i connect through the router i can only achieve about 3 MBs download speed (only 2,5MB the other PC LAN connected -> weird i'd say).
As far as i know, the router should allow speeds of 10 MBs for 1 PC if the other computers aren't connected or don't need internet at a given time.
So i was wondering if this speed problem could be related to the fact that i still have the other settings (mostly the MAC clone of my PC; this is the only one i can think of that might create a problem) or it might just be hardware related (doesn't allow me better speeds or something).

well, since yesterday, i've reseted the router and only added the user name & password provided by my ISP but still it doesn't work as it should.
about my connection, as far as i can say, my contract with my ISP has been modified from the cable contract to a fiberlink contract, most likely the cheapest (they have 2 kinds of contracts). but even with this cheap-fiber contract, i still should have a total 10MBs download speed! yet, my exact connection is of about 3MBs DL speed total. i know this because i used for download 2 PCs and have 3MBs DL and 1,5MBs UP.
anyway, if it help here is how i think my contract looks like:
Maximum bandwidth in your town -> 50 Mb / s
Maximum Internet bandwidth -> 50 Mb / s
Traffic with maximum bandwidth on internet -> unlimited
is it possible that the router only uses the Internet bandwidth ??? if so, is it possible to configure it so it uses the other one too?
or is it just hardware limitations ?
Message Edited by dejeuro on 03-03-2010 02:39 AM

FiOS Quantum Speed Problem

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