First Post - Qt Pro Question

We create 360 images from 2 stitched together fisheye photos. The software we use creates a full spherical (cubical) quicktime file (mov). We would like to add test inside of the MOV file, is that possible with quicktime pro?

Not sure what "add test inside of the MOV file" means, but you can do somethings in javascript and the Apple proprietary language. I started here: http://www.apple.com/quicktime/technologies/interactivity/qtjavascript.html
I am pretty new to this so I hope this helps.

Similar Messages

  • Please read my question carefully, this is, I think, a question for the experts. It's not the usual name change question.   When I setup my new MacBook Pro, something slipped by me and my computer was named First-Lasts-MacBook-Pro (using my real first and

    Please read my question carefully, this is, I think, a question for the experts. It's not the usual name change question.
    When I setup my new MacBook Pro, something slipped by me and my computer was named First-Lasts-MacBook-Pro (using my real first and last name).
    I changed the computer name in Preferences/Sharing to a new name and Preferences/Accounts to just be Mike. I can right click on my account name, choose advanced, and see that everything looks right.
    However, If I do a scan of my network with my iPhone using the free version of IP Scanner, it lists my computer as First-Lasts-MacBook-Pro! And it lists the user as First-Last.
    So even though another Mac just sees my new computer name, and my home folder is Mike, somewhere in the system the original setup with my full name is still stored. And it's available on a network scan. So my full name might show up at a coffee shop.
    Can I fully change the name without doing a complete re-install of Lion and all my apps?

    One thought... you said the iPhone displayed your computer's old name? I think that you must have used the iPhone with this computer before you changed the name. So no one else's iPhone should display your full name unless that iPhone had previously connected to your Mac. For example, I did this exact same change, and I use the Keynote Remote app to connect with my MacBook Pro. It would no longer link with my MacBook Pro under the old name, and I found that I had to unlink and then create a new link under the new name. So the answer to your question is, there is nothing you need to do on the Mac, but rather the phone, and no other phone will display your full name.

  • First Generation Mac Pro (in the shop please help)

    My first generation Mac Pro is in the shop and I am hoping one of the experts on the list can give me a good reason to have them go beyond what they would normally do. Effectively it is six months out of AppleCare Warranty but I was told that if there was a problem related to an earlier fix they would take care of it.
    The story:
    I bought this machine with two 500 GB hard drives with one to run XP on BootCamp. I only intended to run XP software on this machine and only went back to mac due to the "do everything on your Mac that you could do on you PC" campaign. The other drive was for /eventual/ use of OSX.
    About a year and a half in I bought two extra gigs of RAM to boost XP 3D software performance. I ran this for about a couple of weeks did not see much change and tried to verify that it was seeing the 4 GB. It was seeing two. I spend a couple of weeks sorting this out with Crucial (who said it was a "special issue") and then I got through to Apple and eventually sent the 2GB back.
    Later I found out from a technical forum that I could "flip a switch" and get XP to recognize an extra gig of RAM via some technical settings. I bought the two GB of RAM again, installed it, and tried to run the software switch. After /endless/ go rounds with MAC I was told that the MacPro will do "anything that a PC will do" (which I tried to indicate was not the case) and that I basically had to consult the Forums. At that point I got in touch with Cupertino was told that this was a Firmware issue that could not be fixed.
    I was told by the tech that I should just wait until Windows 7 comes out.
    So I waited. About eight months ago I set down to upgrade the Office with a new MacBookPro with Windows 7 and I went to upgrade the MacPro with Windows 7. No go. I looked this up on a technical bulletin that described "Late 2006" Mac Pros as not running WIndows 7 (mine is 2007) and spent more time troubleshooting this.
    Again after getting through to Cupertino, and having them consult the serial number I am told that this machine will not run Windows 7. Huh? I am stuck with a computer that I bought for apparent durability and endless RAM expansion and I am stuck with only 2GB or RAM which came out of the gate from the factory?
    It is now in the shop for an apparent dead power source. It was previously in the shop for a weird, hairy and extremely difficult to troubleshoot (again more time) issue with the display. First it was thought to be the display, then the mother board, then something was loose, then it was the display, then we replaced the Video Card, and eventually we settled on a bad mini DVI converted they had to give me because they busted my Display when it was in for fix and had to give me another one (not complaining). After this was fixed the computer had to go in for a bad CD/DVD drive.
    The question is - can I argue in any way that there is something defective with this machine and base the new problem on an old one?
    Longer term, I am thinking about trying to sell it for one that will run Windows 7.
    Do these things last as long as they /look/ like they should last over the long haul?
    Thanks for any help,
    Jonathan

    Hi. Look.
    I do have an IT guy but I have to first be able to explain the problem to him and to do this I have to understand it myself. [BTW let's also not go down the road where I get insulted about my perceived lack of technical skills. This gets very old very quick and if you knew what I did for a living you would feel a little silly talking to me about "a couple of latches" etc. etc.)
    I /also/ have to figure out what questions to ask and attempt to get some minimum amount of support from Apple. Even the Tech Supervisor at the Apple store told me two weeks ago he remembered how hard it was to get good information on this issue. The guy /works/ for Apple and he's probably /does/ have some degree in computer science.
    The point is I don't have the TIME to address this issue and this will be the sixth or seventh time I have looked into it. I think this machine is not doing what it was advertised to do and I think in the past Apple would have done something for the consumer about it. It doesn't make sense for me to not say so - and it doesn't make sense for us to argue about this. The only reason something is not being done is because there is a very small class of people who are having this problem. If there were a larger class there would be a ton of comical takes on the PC Guy Ads on YouTube and they'd /have/ to do something just for the sake of the bad PR.
    Perhaps I can ask you to post the links to the procedure for doing this if I get the time and decide it is worth it? Can you also clarify if this applies to both Win 64 and Win 32?
    Thanks.

  • First post! Hard drive space available

    I've searched mac forums and other but I can't figure this out!
    Myd dad bought my macbook pro and I thought, until very recently, that it had a 60GB HD as this is what Activity Monitor always told me, as you can see below.
    Once I get close to 60GB I have to start deleting loads of stuff. I thought that this was my max storage space but when I got Checkup it said: Hard Drive 149.0GB capacity and apparently I'm already using 144.3GB! It says it has 2 partitions and shows my Macintosh HD's capacity as 51.9GB...
    But Disk Utility doesn't show partitions when I look at my Hitachi HD.
    At the bottom it also tells me that the hard drive capacity is 160.04GB
    When I look at Macintosh HD it says at the bottom that it's capacity is 159.7GB and I have used 48.33GB but only have 7.37GB available. Activity monitor is roughly the same saying I only have 7.63GB left.
    My question is why is it like this and how can I make Macintosh HD bigger. I really don't need that much free space outside Macintosh HD and I would rather be able to use the entire approx 160GB hard drive in Mac OS X. I think you're meant to be able to resize the startup partition but i can't see the 2 partitions! I'm pretty sure the blue shading shows the amount of space I have used and is not a separate partition. How do I fix this? Sorry about all the pictures but I wasn't sure I could explain properly without them. thanx in advance, any advice is greatly appreciated even if you just tell me I'm crazy.
    first post btw

    The pictures are a good idea, especially with such odd results ! MacBook Pro's don't come with 60Gb drives ...
    Have you got a full backup of your current data because if so I'd advise you to wipe and reformat the entire drive and then restore your data from the backup. (Boot from the Install DVD by holding C then run Disc Utility, re-parition the drive and write zeros to it once and you should see the full capacity)

  • Please make this a good experiance for my first post on any board.  READ ME

    Hi all. Well first off, let me start by saying that my whole life I've owned PC's. And I'm not hacker Elliet. But I've gotten to know them pretty well. All the way from Windows 3.1 that came out a long time ago (more than 10 years ago)
    So after a while of hearing about MAC's I decided to start small and get an iPod (since they are so popular here in NYC) and see what apple was about. Well I really saw that Apple had a great product and started asking about their computers. And did plenty of research. And before the new Intel Macs came out, I was going to get a powerbook. But I had a feeling a new laptop was coming out and waited a lil while and sure enough. The Macbook Pro came out. So I went out and did all my research (as to this being the first real purchase of a Apple product and knew about the possible implications of a new first gen Intel chip in a apple product litterally making history) I knew I might become a new beta tester.
    So I started looking on these boards and did 2 weeks worth of hard research to see if the Mac Book Pro (MBP) was for me. And after all the problems i saw (ex: The whine, Right speaker distortion, heat coming from it, white line at bottom of screen, etc) I never saw or read anything about AOL connectivity problems. And I know, I know... alot of you are probably going to gripe and complain about AOL sucking and yada yada yada, but please. Cut me some slack. I actually like AOL. I got on it back in 92 when it came out, and really enjoyed it. And have been on it since. I like chatting on there, and so forth. And I hope you help with my problem instead of telling me to go get "a real ISP" I do have a real ISP, but I like my AOL too.
    So now to my problem....
    I have a Sony Viao 1.8ghz PC with 512 ram, 80 gig hard drive, 10/100 ethernet port. Connected to a Belkin Router (more info below on specs of router) connected to Opt Online Broadband Cable internet with VoIP. I use my macbook pro on the wireless network at my home.
    I got a mac book pro 1.83 ghz running 512 ram on Tiger OSX 10.4.6 I thought that I would wait till a connectivity patch (which I thought would have been 10.4.6) fix the airport problems came out till I posted something. But now that I've tried everything, I'm hoping you open this thread and help me and possibly someone else out there as well. I just d/l'd and installed the 10.4.6 update last night and it did'nt help. So here's more info on my specs. I have a belkin router wireless G 2.4 ghz 54mbs router and I have configured the router with it's firewall, wap2 encryption (as it's the only selection the router has that is available that matches what airport comes with in encryption) I hid my network, and have tried to upgrade the firmware on the router.
    Now Here's the real problem. I can connect to AOL on my MBP when I connect the actual ethernet cable to the MBP's Ethernet port (after I have let the cable modem do a hard reset to configure itself to a mac) I can connect to AOL. But when I disconnect the cable and return it to it's normal config, I can't connect to AOL. I can connect to the internet via safari, and firefox, and even AOL's IM on iChat. I can use Itunes all kinds of things. I can even play warcraft 3 wirelessly on battlenet. But connecting to AOL is a pain in the @$$. It's the only proggy I have that won't allow it to connect. I keep getting the error message "Your AOL connection ended because the AOL host was unable to start a new session. Please try to sign on again." Of course All i see for a while is the spinning black and white circle. And it goes through step 1 and 2, goes straight to 6. Then it goes blank, and BAM! That message pops up. And what's so frustrating is that I've tried every possible configuration on AOL, my router and even system preferences, for it to let connect. I even went into system preferences on the mac and went down the the Internet & Network "Sharing" icon and tried 100 possible combinations on that in the services tab, and firewall tab. I've turned them on, off, tried to make exceptions ETC. And no matter how much I play with the personal file sharing and windows sharing advanced settings and sigh every possible combination to make AOL connect via wirelessly. And nothing. I then even tried to fix the connection under AOL in setup. I've gone through and selected TCP Script, Airport Script. Cable Script, And practically every script I can think of. And nothing. I even went on to AOL and downloaded thier alleged fix to wireless accessing AOL. And nothing. I've been searching all over google, AOL's website, and all over these discussion boards and no mention of anyone even having the same problem. But please, someone out there with their infinit knowledge of how Macs run and having more experience than me, Please make this a good experiance for my first post on any board anywhere reguarding a mac. A MBP at that too.
    An update to this, But amazingly enough, I actually got it to connect to AOL wirelessly for the first time yest. But I have no Idea how i did it. I tried for 3 hours to reproduce it and no luck. I was accessing my router at it's website config screen and somehow I clicked on connect to AOL and while it was trying to connect to it, i reset the router and BAM, it connected to AOL. And I was in shock. I thought I solved it. Somewhere while it was reseting the router it connected and stayed connected to AOL till I signed off and tried to sign back on to see if I could now connect, and guess what. The same dumb message keeps popping up "Your AOL connection ended because the AOL host was unable to start a new session. Please try to sign on again." And all I did was sign off to test it, thinking I had fixed the problem. I tried for 3 hours like I stated above, and BAM got it connected to AOL wirelessly again (somehow while the router was resetting). And thinking I fixed it, or figured out the trick to getting it to work, signed off... I kissed aol goodbye again. And have been unable to reproduce the "glitch". SIGH Can someone out there please help me?
    I think I've made this message as detailed as possible, but please, can someone give me some constructive criticism on how to fix my AOL wireless connectivity problems. Do you know if it's my router? My MBP? AOL software? BTW, I got AOL software version 10.3.7 (Rev 4136.310 US) The latest version I D/L'ed from the AOL website. Anyone know If I should turn on or off some things such as personal fire sharing on, or firewall off or on? ANYTHING. Please. I've put alot of time into writing this post and making it as detailed as possible. And been having this problem for the past 3 weeks that I've had my MBP, and have waited long enough to use my AOL. If you need any further information or suggestions on making AOL work, please let me know. Thank you for taking the time to read all of this, and I really appreciate all of you in the time you take in responding back in trying to help me. I'll be monitoring this post almost hourly. So I hope someone out there can help. Thanks so much again. And help me make this transition to Mac a pleasant one knowing that there is a mac community out there willing to help a new mac client. Again, Many thanks
    In Heath and Wealth,
    Bruce
    Mac Book Pro 1.83 GHZ 512 Ram   Mac OS X (10.4.5)  

    I FIXED IT!
    FYI for the rest of you that might be having the same problem. DON'T USE A BELKIN ROUTER WITH AOL ON A MBP!!!!! It ***** wirelessly. or even hard connected, it won't connect. I went to best buy today, and got a refund on the belkin. I then went to J&R and got a D-Link router. And now it works perfect. I can now chat on AOL yet again, and I tried all the other web browsers I have and messengers, and warcraft 3 online via battlenet. And it works great. I want to give you guys a special thanks for taking time out to answer back to my post. FYI! Belkin wireless G routers do not connect you to AOL wirelessly on MBP's. No matter how much you mess around on them. I highly recommend a D-Link Router. They are easy to set up as long as you READ ( AND I MEAN IT!!!) read the instructions before you set anything up on it. Use the CD that it comes with, and you'll be good to go. Set it up and it works great Almost no dead zones in the house, and now I can use the MBP with all it's cababilities. Thanks people. I really appreciate it.
    P.S. I called belkin last night when i decided to get a refund on my router for today and when i talked to the tech, after puersuading him to tell me the truth. And stop BS'ing me, he broke down and admited that AOL does not work wirelessly on MBP's. So to make a long story short this time, There you go. And one last note, I'm very happy now with my d-link router. I honestly thought it would suck. Not being a brand name router or anything. But amazingly, it works like a brand name item! Again, many thanks all.
    Bruce

  • First Gen MacBook Pro and no firewire 800. Suggestions for capturing video?

    My first gen MacBook Pro only has one Firewire 400 port and nothing else (I got in a argument with a mac store clerk regarding the truth of this statement). My external hard drive has one Firewire 400 port, two Firewire 800 ports, and 1 USB. So far as I know the standard for most video cameras are still Firewire 400, in which case daisy chaining is out of the question (considering I will be using that port to connect to my computer). Any suggestions on how to capture video straight from a deck to my external hard drive?
    Thanks!
    MacBookPro1,1   Mac OS X (10.4.9)  

    I think you can use a FW800/400 adapter and daisy chain your camera to the drive.
    http://www.amazon.com/Sonnet-FireWire-800-Adapter-FAD-824/dp/B0000CDJPQ

  • Ram and Final Cut Pro Questions...

    Ok, so I have a 2.66 Mac Pro with 2GB of RAM. I am now starting to work with HD content, so I just got 2 more GB of RAM from OWC. But I've been reading that I should probably have more than 4GB of RAM to work with HD content. I have the ATI card on the Mac Pro btw.
    I just want peoples' opinion on this. Is 4GB enough? If not, I get confused about the Ram's performance on the Mac Pro. Don't I have to get to 8GB of Ram in order to get the RAM to act quickly? I'm not sure how all that works, but I just remember reading on here ram should be doubled for its bandwidth to reach max potential. Does that mean 6GB of RAM will be fine? Or does it have to be 2, 4, 8, 16 GB of RAM for it to be the fastest it can be? Does it slow it down if I use 6GB of RAM?
    I can probably afford 2 more GB of RAM, but I don't want to put 6 in my system if it actually slows it down. Thanks for your help!

    Well, the system came with 4 X 512MB of Ram, so I'm
    getting 2 x 1GB of Ram in the mail. That'll give me
    6 DIMMS. I could've sworn that I had to match DIMMS
    top to bottom for it to work. But you're saying to
    put 4 DIMMS to fill up the top tray and then just
    place the remaining 2 DIMMS on the bottom tray? Am I
    understanding that correctly?
    Yes. Each riser board has two pairs of slots, numbered 0 through 3. You MUST match 0 and 1 with the same type and size of RAM if you fill those slots on a board, and you MUST match 2 and 3. Otherwise, you can put whatever pairs you want on whatever boards.
    Performance-wise, though, you get the best results by:
    1) Filling both RAM boards' 0 and 1 slots with the same size and type of RAM. Same with 2 and 3 on both boards.
    2) Placing dual rank (usually 1GB or higher capacity) RAM in 0 and 1 on both boards, as those are the slots that are usually hit first, and dual rank RAM is faster.
    If you can afford it, you might consider getting an additional 2x1GB pair of the same brand you already have. Then, you could put those 4 modules in the 0 and 1 slots on each board and the 512 modules in 2 and 3. This will put your faster dual-rank RAM in the lower numbered slots, and will make sure that module sizes are matched across boards, which will maximize performance.
    Also, I tend to have a lot of software open when I
    edit. Soundtrack, Motion, Livetype, FCP, soon CS3
    and other random software is usually open when I edit
    (like iChat and Mail). Will 4GB still be enough you
    think? I didn't mention all that in my first post,
    so I apologize.
    If you're running all of that, you might well find that extra RAM is helpful, particularly if you're processing in the background. Even if not, switching between applications will be smoother and faster with more RAM. This is another good reason to think about getting another 2x1GB pair.
    Also, this whole Ram bandwidth thing has me confused.
    If I do end up getting 6GB of Ram (4 x 1GB and 4 X
    512MB)does that slow down my Ram? Does the fact
    that I have 2 different types of DIMMS slow down my
    Ram? It's all so confusing
    A tiny little bit that you may not notice, and no.
    Right now you have 4x512MB in your 0 and 1 slots. This is pretty optimal for a setup of 512 MB modules, because having the same type of RAM paired across boards in the same numbered slots increases your memory performance.
    If you add 2x1GB in the 2 and 3 slots on one board, your existing memory (the original 4x512MB modules) will still be able to transfer data at just as high a rate as before. The 2x1GB modules in 2 and 3 will be slower because they're not paired with another 2x1GB pair on the other board, but that will only affect accesses to the data stored in those modules, which the system will tend to use last.
    What will slow down somewhat is that each request the CPU makes to transfer data from your existing 4x512MB RAM will take a bit longer to start because you have put modules in the 2 and 3 slots on one of the boards. Once it gets going, the transfer will happen at just as high a rate, but the setup time is longer by a small amount.
    Chances are, the performance improvement you'll see with the extra RAM running all those apps will totally overwhelm any such slowdown. Note that I don't know of anyone who's benchmarked a real impact of that, all the discussions I've seen about such a slowdown are just theory.
    However: those 1 GB modules in 2 and 3 will operate at a slower rate than they could because you don't have another 1 GB pair on the other board matched up with them. That's why I suggested getting a 2nd pair of 1 GB modules for the other board.
    Finally, if you do get 4x1GB, swapping those 1 GB modules into the 0 and 1 slots will ensure that they get used first, and since most 1GB modules are substantially faster than the 512 MB modules, you'll want that for best performance. However, unless you get a couple of additional 1 GB modules to fill out the set of four, I would not recommend swapping the 512 MB modules into different slots. The fact that you have a matched set of 4x512 in slots 0 and 1 is a big speed benefit if you don't get a matched 4x1GB set for your expansion.
    I hope that I haven't confused the situation...
    -- Mark
    4-core 3 GHz Mac Pro w/ 4.5 TB HDD and 10 GB RAM, 17 Macbook Pro 2.16 GHz

  • Where can high-power video cards be installed on a first-gen Mac Pro?

    I have a first-gen Mac Pro with a Radeon X1900 XT in Slot-1 and a Geforce 7300 GT in Slot-4. The x1900 XT powers a 30" monitor and the 7300GT powers 2 x 20" monitors. The 7300GT card died and is being replaced with an 8800 GT.
    Now it seems fairly obvious that for gaming the 8800 GT is superior to my X1900 XT. Ideally I'd like to just throw my new 8800 GT in Slot-1 and use it for my 30" monitor and then run the 2 20's off the X1900 XT in Slot-4. The problem with that is that the x1900 XT is a huge card and physically won't fit in Slot-4 because it runs in to the hard drives above it.
    *Now, on to the questions / clarification:*
    _Question 1_: Is the first-gen Mac Pro the same as the new Mac Pro in that high-power cards can only be used in Slot-1 and Slot-2? If so, why does it come in the standard configuration of:
    Slot-1: x16
    Slot-2: x1
    Slot-3: x1
    Slot-4: x8
    It would seem that Apple purposely did this so you would run 2 high-power cards in Slot-1 and Slot-4 and keep them away from each other for heat reasons. The new Mac Pro has x16 bandwidth on Slot-1 and Slot-2 and it would make sense why they say to only install high-power cards in Slot-1 and Slot-2 for it.
    _Question 2_: PCI-e configurations. There are a few ways I could tweak the configuration of the expansion slots to make this setup work. I'm curious as to which you would think is best:
    *Option 1 (default PCI-e config, only works if a high-power card can be installed in slot 4):*
    Slot-1: x16 - Radeon X1900 XT - 2 x 20" monitors for minor tasks / programs
    Slot-2: x1
    Slot-3: x1
    Slot-4: x8 - GeForce 8800 GT - 30" monitor for major tasks / gaming
    Now, the first issue is can the 8800 even run in Slot-4 due to the supposed power problem? If so, would there be a difference in performance for gaming at x8? I know this is backwards because you'd want the "primary" card to run on x16 but that's just not possible with this PCI-e configuration. If there is a difference in performance would an 8800 GT at x8 still run significantly faster in games than an X1900 XT a x16? I'd think so, but that's assuming the x8 isn't a real bottleneck.
    *Option 2 (the only solution if the cards have to be installed in the first 2 slots):*
    Slot-1: x8 - GeForce 8800 GT - 30" monitor for major tasks / gaming
    Slot-2: x8 - Radeon X1900 XT - 2 x 20" monitors for minor tasks / programs
    Slot-3: x4
    Slot-4: x4
    You still have the issue of the 8800 only running at x8 (if it even makes a difference, not sure). The benefit I see here is that instead of the X1900 XT dumping all of it's heat in to the 8800 GT (since heat rises) you have the 8800 GT on the bottom where it might run cooler. The X1900 XT would then also be limited to x8 but it's not even being used for gaming so it wouldn't matter at all. The X1900 XT is huge and would cover up Slot-3 but I don't use the other 2 slots so I don't mind.
    *Option 3 (only works if Slot-3 can actually power an X1900 XT):*
    Slot-1: x16 - GeForce 8800 GT - 30" monitor for major tasks / gaming
    Slot-2: x1
    Slot-3: x4 - Radeon X1900 XT - 2 x 20" monitors for minor tasks / programs
    Slot-4: x4
    This seems ideal only because this is the only setup that can get the 8800 to run at x16. The issue now is can Slot-3 run a high-power card? The card doesn't really NEED the power since it's just for running basic apps and not gaming. Again, the X1900 would cover up Slot-4 but it's not being used so no worries there.
    *At the end of the day, the most important thing to figure out is:* where can high-power cards be installed in a first-gen mac pro? Once we know that we can figure out Question 2. The instructions that come with the 8800 GT say it can be installed in any of the 4 slots, but I don't know if I really believe that.
    Thanks in advance for your help!

    Thanks for your help, I think we've beat this horse to death :P. I'm glad I got it all figured out though.
    Now the only question is if the gaming performance of the 8800 is actually enough better than the X1900 to warrant making it my "primary" video card. As long as Adobe CS3 apps don't rely on core image like some of the Apple Pro apps do I think it will be fine. If they do I'd have to probably just stick with the X1900 since I use CS3 every single day and only play video games once a week if I'm lucky.
    What are your thoughts on the X1900 vs the 8800 GT for CS3?
    Edit: This just occurred to me... Since I'm going to have to run them as x8, x8, x4, x4 there isn't really going to be a "primary" card since neither will be at 16x. I guess I could technically just plug my 30" monitor in to either one of them depending on what I feel like doing. If I'm going to play a game I just plug in to the 8800 and if I'm working I plug in to the 1900. The computer is up on the desk so moving the monitor from one card to the other takes about 10 seconds. I could just plug 1 20" monitor in to each so there's always a free DVI port on either one.
    It's not the most elegant but I guess it would be a good compromise if I wanted the "best" performance in either situation. I realize the Radeon 3870 is probably the best of both worlds but I really don't want the noise. I already modified my 1900 with this after 6 months of listening to the lawn mower that was the stock 1900 cooler: http://www.arctic-cooling.com/vga2.php?idx=147
    I'm just hoping the 8800 isn't too loud .

  • If you need help quickly... Guideline for posting an effective question.

    Whenever you have a question that you would like answered, do pose that question effectively.
    First, do not assume that because you have tried many, many times that your question is understood by someone else. What is obvious to you may not be for another. So please state in a very detailed and structured way what steps you have taken to cause your problem, how you can replicate this problem, under what circumstances on what hardware/software.
    The fact that you have nearly given up because of your problem does not mean that someone else can readily understand this problem. When you go to your doctor and say: "I have a pain in my stomach" he will ask you a lot of questions. Same applies here. Your doctor may need to know about any medication you have taken, your blood pressure, history, etc. If you want help, be as PRECISE and ACCURATE as possible.
    Second, this is a USER TO USER forum. So ranting will not help. What may help is a STRUCTURED approach to describing the problem you have.
    Third, do a thorough search of posts here, on other fora and with Google before repeating what has been asked a thousand times and has worn out the patience of regulars here, who have answered your question a dozen times already. Use the FAQ and the Wiki to find answers to questions that have been posed and answered repeatedly. Do not assume you are unique with your problem. Well, you are unique, the problem you have most likely is not.
    Fourth, realize that even though it may be highly frustrating to you to not be able to solve YOUR problem, by posting your question here, you are dependent on fellow editors to help you on their free time without compensation, so bear with them to help identify what EXACTLY is your problem. If you lack that decency, you may forfeit their help, so why did you come here?
    Fifth, consider your work flow in light of the purpose of Premiere, an editing package. If you have problems with rotoscoping, programming with APL, spreadsheets in general, word processing on a mobile phone, importing Panda bears into a local zoo, feeding nearly distinct whales in the Alps, or anything far removed from the purpose of PP, you may be better off in posting your question elsewhere.
    Last:
    Everybody has to learn, has the right to ask questions and be helped.
    If everybody has the decency to pose their urgent, life threatening or other questions in a detailed, structured and comprehensible way, it will vastly improve the chances of speedy and helpful replies, without the need for sarcasm, bundles of to-and-fro posts without meaningful help, just wasting bandwidth.
    I know I have been rightly accused of such behavior, which was the result of sheer frustration with absolutely meaningless and often pointless questions without details, structure and the like. Maybe this can be a general guideline for posters on how to ask questions, in addition to Eddie's links and How to ask questions the smart way
    The most frustrating issues one can encounter are hangs, BSOD's (blue screens of death), system errors and other cases of seemingly random erros that require rebooting, restarting or similar actions, only to be confronted with the next hang, BSOD or system crash.
    These errors are often difficult to locate, due to the large variety of systems, components and driver or software versions in use. This is often further aggravated by sheer lack of expertise, understanding of what needs to be communicated in order for others to help solve the issue at hand. And that list is very long.
    So, in order to make it a bit simpler for the average user who encounters these problems, follow the following steps when posting a problem:
    1. Clearly describe the main problem in the topic, but be brief. Not so brief as to only say: "Help!" or "URGENT" or another meaningless statement but get to the point, like: "PP crashes on opening, requiring a reboot" or "Using DL the system hangs upon return to PP". You get the point.
    2. Briefly describe your hardware, software, OS and versions in use, including disk setup, video card and driver versions, etc.
    3. Describe source material, including codec (not AVI, which is not a codec), project settings and other relevant info.
    4. Describe as accurately as possible what you did, what steps you took, what happened at what moment and what you did to try to resolve it.
    5. Go to Start/Run, type in DXDIAG, enter and save all information to a TXT file. Include a link to that file in your post.
    6. Go to Start/Run, type in MSINFO32 (or similar for 64 bit OS), enter and save the results as a .NFO file. Include a link to that file in your post.
    7. Download Process Explorer , and either post a screen shot or a link to the results.
    8. Make a screen shot of the results of SpeedFan or HW Monitor and include that in your post.
    When you perform these basic steps, you avoid endless questions about your system and people may be able to help you faster.
    If you feel up to it, take a look at The Case of the Unexplained to start your own troubleshooting.
    Hope this helps to post more meaningful questions and get an answer much quicker.

    Whenever you have a question that you would like answered, do pose that question effectively.
    First, do not assume that because you have tried many, many times that your question is understood by someone else. What is obvious to you may not be for another. So please state in a very detailed and structured way what steps you have taken to cause your problem, how you can replicate this problem, under what circumstances on what hardware/software.
    The fact that you have nearly given up because of your problem does not mean that someone else can readily understand this problem. When you go to your doctor and say: "I have a pain in my stomach" he will ask you a lot of questions. Same applies here. Your doctor may need to know about any medication you have taken, your blood pressure, history, etc. If you want help, be as PRECISE and ACCURATE as possible.
    Second, this is a USER TO USER forum. So ranting will not help. What may help is a STRUCTURED approach to describing the problem you have.
    Third, do a thorough search of posts here, on other fora and with Google before repeating what has been asked a thousand times and has worn out the patience of regulars here, who have answered your question a dozen times already. Use the FAQ and the Wiki to find answers to questions that have been posed and answered repeatedly. Do not assume you are unique with your problem. Well, you are unique, the problem you have most likely is not.
    Fourth, realize that even though it may be highly frustrating to you to not be able to solve YOUR problem, by posting your question here, you are dependent on fellow editors to help you on their free time without compensation, so bear with them to help identify what EXACTLY is your problem. If you lack that decency, you may forfeit their help, so why did you come here?
    Fifth, consider your work flow in light of the purpose of Premiere, an editing package. If you have problems with rotoscoping, programming with APL, spreadsheets in general, word processing on a mobile phone, importing Panda bears into a local zoo, feeding nearly distinct whales in the Alps, or anything far removed from the purpose of PP, you may be better off in posting your question elsewhere.
    Last:
    Everybody has to learn, has the right to ask questions and be helped.
    If everybody has the decency to pose their urgent, life threatening or other questions in a detailed, structured and comprehensible way, it will vastly improve the chances of speedy and helpful replies, without the need for sarcasm, bundles of to-and-fro posts without meaningful help, just wasting bandwidth.
    I know I have been rightly accused of such behavior, which was the result of sheer frustration with absolutely meaningless and often pointless questions without details, structure and the like. Maybe this can be a general guideline for posters on how to ask questions, in addition to Eddie's links and How to ask questions the smart way
    The most frustrating issues one can encounter are hangs, BSOD's (blue screens of death), system errors and other cases of seemingly random erros that require rebooting, restarting or similar actions, only to be confronted with the next hang, BSOD or system crash.
    These errors are often difficult to locate, due to the large variety of systems, components and driver or software versions in use. This is often further aggravated by sheer lack of expertise, understanding of what needs to be communicated in order for others to help solve the issue at hand. And that list is very long.
    So, in order to make it a bit simpler for the average user who encounters these problems, follow the following steps when posting a problem:
    1. Clearly describe the main problem in the topic, but be brief. Not so brief as to only say: "Help!" or "URGENT" or another meaningless statement but get to the point, like: "PP crashes on opening, requiring a reboot" or "Using DL the system hangs upon return to PP". You get the point.
    2. Briefly describe your hardware, software, OS and versions in use, including disk setup, video card and driver versions, etc.
    3. Describe source material, including codec (not AVI, which is not a codec), project settings and other relevant info.
    4. Describe as accurately as possible what you did, what steps you took, what happened at what moment and what you did to try to resolve it.
    5. Go to Start/Run, type in DXDIAG, enter and save all information to a TXT file. Include a link to that file in your post.
    6. Go to Start/Run, type in MSINFO32 (or similar for 64 bit OS), enter and save the results as a .NFO file. Include a link to that file in your post.
    7. Download Process Explorer , and either post a screen shot or a link to the results.
    8. Make a screen shot of the results of SpeedFan or HW Monitor and include that in your post.
    When you perform these basic steps, you avoid endless questions about your system and people may be able to help you faster.
    If you feel up to it, take a look at The Case of the Unexplained to start your own troubleshooting.
    Hope this helps to post more meaningful questions and get an answer much quicker.

  • Inherited first gen Macbook Pro

    Hey everyone, I have a somewhat vague question. I recently swapped computers with my wife, inheriting her first generation Macbook Pro, which has surprisingly withstood the test of time. Right now I'm trying to maximize the performance so that I can make it through to the next product cycle. It can handle basic tasks. Ideally, I would like to be able to run multiple programs (Powerpoint/Keynote, large PDFs, Chrome, Word), but the computer tends to lag down. The specs are in my signature; the hard drive is about 90% full (93 gb capacity), not sure the RPM. Activity monitor typically shows >1 gb of RAM free.
    Would you recommend running any diagnostics, new software or hardware? Is there a cost effective way of installing SSD, or am I better off waiting for prices to go down? My goal is to become more Mac savvy and autonomous, so if you can point me towards any good (ideally free) resources, I'd be very appreciative!
    Thanks, and happy New Year.

    Welcome from me too!
    Definitely replace the hard drive with a bigger one--100 GB is just not big enough, and besides, it's likely getting to the end of its useful life as it must be 5 years old now. You can likely look up the specs on the manufacturer's web site using the serial number.
    You could try running SMART Utility:
    http://www.apple.com/downloads/macosx/systemdiskutilities/smartutility.html
    You can download the demo and run it several times for free. It is somewhat more critical than Disk Utility, and may pick up impending hard drive failure sooner.
    You can use any SATA drive that is no more than 9.5 mm tall, which means you cannot use any of the 1 TB drives that are 12.5 mm tall. There are many 500 GB drives around, including a hybrid from Seagate which is supposed to be very fast. There are even some 750 GB drives around that are 9.5 mm tall.
    If the old drive has your wife's stuff on it, you can just put it in an enclosure and give it back to her. Then you can set up the new drive with your stuff. You might check on OWC's web site--they have drive kits, which includes an enclosure for the old drive. Also check with Newegg and Tiger Direct, as they often have specials on drives.
    There's even one on theSeagate hybrid:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148591
    Western Digital's Scorpio Black is also an excellent drive, and not nearly as expensive:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136692
    It seems to be sold out, but I'm sure they will get more in.
    Do you want to install the drive yourself? Check out ifixit for step by step directions. If you don't, your local AASP can do it for you.
    There is a ton of free resources on the Apple site, including many video tutorials for new Mac users. ifixit and powerbook medic are also free resources if you want to work on your Mac yourself, with lots of step-by-step instructions.
    Good luck, and happy New Year to you too!

  • First post but hey

    ok this is my first post here, i have mainly been a lurker looking around see what problems can be resolved by what methods... (my specs are at the bottom of my post)
    the only problem that I seem to have is with HitMan 2, which i have not found a solution too...
    seems that when i am playing the game it crashes back to the desktop, and then i have to relaunch...
    this is kind of annoying, another thing is the temp of the CORE on the vid card, its sooo high, around 48C... is this normal??
    Thank you so much for the help, I know you guys try, and with only 4 mods, its probably hard to answer all these questions...
    EDIT:
    oh and i am thinking about getting a better PSU, which one do you guys recommend??
    CoolMAX 550w Aluminum PSU
    or
    Power Maxx 520w Aluminum PSU
    or
    Antec 480W True Blue PSU
    System Specs:
    Enermax Case
    350watt PSU (came with the case)
    AMD Athlon XP 2100+ @ Stock
    Volcano 7 w/modded 80mm Fan
    Soyo KT400 Ultra Platinum
    512MB Kingston PC2700 DDR @ Stock
    80GB Maxtor HD w/8mb Cache @ 133 ATA
    MSI GeForce 4 Ti4200 128MB DDR AGP @ Stock
    D-Link 10/100 Lan Card
    OnBoard Sound
    48x24x48 LiteOn CDRW, 16x LiteOn DVD
    External Temp - Idle: 42c ~ Load: 48c via BIOS & MBM5
    CPU Core - Idle : 51c ~ Load: 61c via BIOS

    http://www.anandtech.com/showdoc.html?i=1774&p=1
    antec for me wins in most cases by the 3 year rather than 12 month warrety most others have
    i regard 30 pounds a year as a sound investment
    and there is no reason it would not last longer
    make sure sound as well as vga drivers are up to date
    all the bsod crashes with some games and the nforce games were sound drivers not vga at all
    try turning things like eax of,lower sound acceloration
    and get any patches out for the game

  • New number of posts bug(?) + question; no #100, and total # of posts vary

    New number of posts bug(?) + question; no number 100, and total number of posts vary
    Intrigued by Tuttle's new attempt to join Niel's old habit to keep his own total number of posts count, I went and start counting my posts since the New Discussions. Because I saved my latest Old Discussions Post-and-Points info, I can see what are the previously-still-online ones (the pre- 14-Nov-2005 01:31 GMT ones), and I know exactly what was my "real" total number of posts before 14-Nov-2005 (2446).
    My New Discussions posts number however, is quite uncertain.
    Firstly, when I use the "My Posts" link on the right, then clicking on and on on the "Next" link,
    my "Viewing 91-100 of 586 -- Pages" shows 91-99 instead of 91-100
    (= should show 10 posts, shows 9 posts)
    then I go on clicking Next Next Next, and I see the same missing counts happen elsewhere:
    my posts number 100, 259, 260, 370, 390, 520, 558, 559, 560, 578, 579, and 580 are missing too.
    Note that I wouldn't bother doing all this, and I would have thought it's just very old posts that are automatically deleted like in the Old Discussions,
    BUT,
    the problem is that when I choose to see all my posts together on the same page
    (by using the start=0&range=600 suffix in the URL)
    I get a total number of posts that is different (570).
    A third way to quickly see all posts without having to load too big page
    (using the start=0&range=300 suffix in the URL then only one "Next" click)
    shows yet another, different again, number of total posts (573).
    And my "official" total number of posts is (586).
    Dear HOSTS,
    - If this can be used as a bug report to fix a counting problem, glad to help.
    - If there is no bug, I have two(+) questions then:
    1) Was my post number 100 deleted?
    (should be around 27-Nov-2005 18:00 GMT)
    Also:
    I thought the Total Posts number that we see in "My Public Profile" or under the avatar in each post (586), was only the number of posts still online.
    - if it is the case, then there are no automatically deleted old posts anymore?
    - if old posts are automatically deleted like before, this number should vary?
    - if it doesn't vary (it just grows by one per new post), AND at the same time old posts are actually automatically deleted,
    it has to show the "real" total number of posts then,
    (as it is now, a total starting from the Old-Discussions-still-online-posts, it makes no sense),
    that is,
    the total posts in the New Discussions PLUS the total posts since first registration in the Old Discussions.
    So,
    2) What does it show exactly?
    Thanks again for all the great work!
    Axl
    220? 221?

    Thank you Andreas,
    Your confirmation about the "post #100 bug" does help.
    "As for your other missing posts - I guess Tuttle's assessment that they might be deleted is probably right..."
    Yes, that makes sense and that's what I'm trying to figure in my OP, but then,
    after I posted my "#221/2667 post" (11-Dec-2005 21:51 GMT), my originally missing #
    259, 260, 370, 390, 520, 558, 559, 560, 578, 579, and 580
    should have become
    260, 261, 371, 391, 521, 559, 560, 561, 579, 580, and 581
    right? (forget the #100: this one we know for sure it's a bug)
    Or if the software counts them from the first (now that would have been a good start) instead of starting from the most recent,
    they should become
    258, 259, 369, 389, 519, 557, 558, 559, 577, 578, and 579
    Well, that's not what happened. Now the missing # are
    259, 260, 370, 390, 400, 520, 559, 560, 570, 579, and 580
    (in addition to the same #100) (#558 and 578 not missing anymore).
    As you can see, there is no logic:
    It doesn't work as a simple numerotation of StillOnlinePosts, no matter the order
    (otherwise there would simply be a straight count from 1 to 575 (=587-12).
    It looks indeed like it shows which old posts are being automatically deleted. That the numbers are quite the same would simply show that the old posts dates were so close, of course they are deleted (six months later) almost at the same time,
    BUT,
    if it was the case, there would never be LESS deleted posts between two StillOnlinePosts, like it happens for example between my StillOnlinePosts #557 and #561.
    Please note: of course I stick to the same method to make all my counts. Not manually modifying the URL, just using the default Next-Next-Next- clicking...
    Modifying URL would add yet more differences in the differences!..
    Dear Hosts,
    Too bad it doesn't help looking yourself at my "My Posts", as everything changes each time I'm adding a reply somewhere.
    Perhaps a good way to troubleshoot this would be to start from a very simple basis:
    --> "name" the posts with a number, starting from the oldest.
    This way, for example my "#1" post (11-Dec-2005 21:51 GMT in this thread) would be named "221" in the New Discussions, or "2667" if you start from my Registration date.
    At the moment, it is very difficult to figure what fault comes from the "#100 post bug" and what fault comes from another possible counting bug...
    Then the New Discussions "fluctuating" refreshing delay too, possibly messes the counts...
    Thanks!
    Axl
    223/2669

  • Illustrator help - first post....

    Hi,
    First post on this forum although I've benefited much from the Dreamweaver forum over the past 12 months.
    I've been in the process of re-training and have now got around to Illustrator CS5 classroom in a book course this past week and I now find myself asking a couple of questions. The main question is as follows:
    1) Is there a book that would come very highly recommended along the lines of 100 things you can/should do with illustrator in the real world of web design?
    I'm mainly focussing on web design and will most likely be using Illustrator (as skills allow!) to create images/backgrounds/logos for use in sites that I build. My challenge is that I'm not "arty" really at all so would hugley benefit from something that I can use as a reference guide for logos, images making etc. I have similar for CSS, HTML & J-Query and hope the same exists for AI.
    Sorry it's a very basic question but I really want to set off in the correct direction.
    Many thanks.
    Regards
    Rob

    Agreed but I would like to cover off some of my own
    Design work going forward to I'm going to push on with  learning some more design fundamentals.
    My challenge with art school is I've also just moved to France and learning the language as well challenges all round!
    Thanks for getting back to me.
    Cheers
    Rob
    Sent from my iPhone

  • Replacing nvidia with ati in first gen mac pro

    posted this in the using osx forum but realized this might be a better
    place for this issue.
    i'm debugging a problem system, a first gen mac pro, that has a 7300gt
    in it. i also have a second gen mac pro that has no problems. i've
    made many changes to the problem system and am coming down to my last
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    the issue is that, on boot, my external sata box hangs when recognizing
    the box's four channels. this does not happen on the second gen mac pro.
    i'm down to the last three things:
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    logic board differences between first, second gen
    osx 10.4 vs osx 10.5
    i'm now testing the graphics card as a possible solution. i've gotten
    conflicting reports as to what graphics cards might work with a first
    gen mac pro still running 10.4.11.
    a tech told me that the 2600xt i have in my second gen will not work
    in the first gen. on the other hand, someone here said they were using
    one. will the 10.4.11 system have any necessary drivers for this card?
    also, the 3870 has been recommended. i've also thought about the 4870.
    i've also seen a lot of discussion about driver problems (that they're
    unavailable) with regard to the 4870, that the drivers would be included
    in a 10.5.7 update. if these drivers won't be available until 10.5.7,
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    the 3870? will my 10.4.11 system be able to use this card?
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    BabaG

    Trial and error, creative troubleshooting.
    Take that one 4-drive RAID across two channels. What happens if all four are on the same channel? what if the firmware - there is firmware for the case, right?
    Does Norco offer replacement PSUs?
    Convert the Apple RAID to SoftRAID (I'd do that regardless anyway).
    http://www.softraid.com
    AND, their support people have helped me with multiple problems, even to help pin-point the er, "culprit" even when it was controller or drive (one vendor blamed Maxtor Atlas drive, then blamed Apple, we came out though showing it was their firmware on their controller card, and a new firmware was released 3 months later - it took me and SoftRAID weeks to nail it.
    Some drives have delayed or staggered spinup, some do not. And some are optimized for RAID. You don't want to use drives that are not. And you want to test each drive before it is put into production (I would give a drive a week of testing before using any drive today).
    Remember where SCSI controllers would also list what drives that they had certified for use with, and were known to work with? or which were not? You don't see that as much, but some do.
    AMUG mentioned using the DS1220 with Sonnet Tempo E4P I think. Sonnet has their own line of rack mount storage. Get them in on the discussion. Try their controller after asking (Niel) what he thinks and knows about Norco.
    You don't mention what you use or have done, but swapping out controllers, and having a spare or backup is often helpful. Even a "given."
    Put a good watt meter (if it logs all the better) to see what kind of current draw or peak inrush your setup exhibit. Put the Mac and the storage rack on separate UPS, either APC SMART or RS800VA, and line conditioner (ZeroSurge).
    12 x 25W and I'd probably want as large a PSU and high efficiency unit.

  • A Compressor/DVD studio pro question

    Hi all.
    I have a Compressor/DVD studio pro question.
    I have a compressor setting that is just the standard DVD MPEG 2 best quality 120 minutes. I have only changed the video setting to Pal as I am in Australia.
    When I go to import the rendered product into DVD Studio Pro I get an error message saying "incorrect format". I even tried importing the rendered file into Toast Titanium and I get the same message from that program.
    Can anyone help with this problem?

    In DVD SP you have to set the format, NTSC or PAL first. Then import the clip. If there is already footage from one format already in the project you cannot flip it to the other. You have to remove the footage first. Then try flipping to PAL. Sometimes it doesn't work. Generally only video footage is ID'ed as PAL or NTSC. Audio just has frequency.

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