Fix double exposure

I have a photo of a friend and I from a few years ago and it would be a really great picture, except it's double exposed and the second exposure is super light and covers our faces. I was hoping someone had some tips on how to fix it.
Thanks!

Sorry, but this
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useful suggestions if you repost your question in the Photoshop forum
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or related ones.
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Similar Messages

How do I fix a double exposure?

I have some photos I took years ago, and then took some more, on the same film, not realizing I already had photos on the frames, resulting in double exposures. I want to keep both sets of photos - two different locations, some light scenes, some darker, of people and objects. How can I best correct these? I have Adobe Pkhotoshop Elements 9, I believe it is.

See here:
http://forums.adobe.com/message/4568487#4568487
What is Photoshop CS# (PSCS)?
Photoshop is a professional tool used throughout many industries as the standard for digital image manipulation and painting. It has very rich, and often complex, tools and options. As such, it comes with a professional price tag.
What is Photoshop Elements (PSE)?
Photosohp Elements is a consumer product. It's made for users who don't need as many features and complex options. It has a simpler design, guided workflows, and an organizer to help you manage your files.
What are the some of the specific differences?
This side-by-side comparison provides an overview on the differences between the various versions of the Photoshop Family of products:
Adobe Photoshop family – Comparison guide
Here is a list of some of the major differences between Photoshop Elements and Photoshop:
Adobe Camera Raw differences between Photoshop and Photoshop Elements
Photoshop Elements comes with a database driven Digital Asset Management application called Elements Organizer. Photoshop comes with Bridge, a file navigation system that operates much like Windows Explorer or Macintosh Finder. While there are several functions that both Organizer and Bridge use, they are fundamentally different applications and serve different purposes.
Photoshop Elements does not support the following color modes: Duotone, CMYK, Lab, Multichannel
There is very little 16-bit support in Photshop Elements. You cannot create or convert an image to 16-bit, only open images that are already 16-bit. While working with a 16-bit image you cannot work with layers. The following tools do not work: Magic Wand, Selection Brush, the family of Type tools, Recompose, Cookie Cutter, Straighten, the brush based tools (Paint Brush, Eraser, Dodge, Blur, etc), or the shape based tools (Rectangle, Ellipse, Custom Shape, etc). Many filters do not work, mainly those featured in the Filter Gallery.
Photoshop Elements does not fully support Smart Objects. While you can open files that already have Smart Object layers, you cannot create Smart Objects nor open the files embedded as Smart Objects.
Photoshop Elements does not have a Channels panel. Nor does it have the Channel Mixer Adjustment/Enhancement.
Photoshop Elements cannot merge multiple/bracketed photo exposures into an HDRimage. There is no support for 32-bit images. However, Photoshop Elements does offer Photomerge Exposure as a similar function.
Photoshop Elements does not use the same range of Content-Aware functions. While the Spot Healing Brush includes the Content-Aware option in both applications, Photoshop Elements does not have Conent-Aware as an option in the Edit > Fill Layercommand (known simply as Edit > Fill in Photoshop). However, Photoshop Elements does use a Content-Aware Fill option when creating a Photomerge Panorama, this is not an option in Photoshop. Photoshop CS6 introduced the Content-Aware Extend and Move tools, which are not available in Photoshop Elements.
Photoshop Elements has fewer vector based tools. The Pen family of tools are not available. The Shape tools do create a vector shape layer, but the vector points cannot be edited individually. There is no Paths panel.
The licence from a boxed purchase of Photoshop Elements is multi-platform (as of version 9). This means you can install on either Windows or Macintosh or both without having to purchase a separate version. This is not true with Photoshop.
Photoshop Elements does not have the Subtract or Divide blending modes that were introduced in Photoshop CS5.
Photoshop and Photoshop Elements can both Transform selected pixels in the following ways: Scale, Rotate, Skew, Distort, and Perspective. Photoshop Elements does not have the Warp Transform option.
The Photoshop Elements Color Picker does not include the following options available in Photoshop's Color Picker: the Not a web-safe color alert icon, the Add to Swatches and Color Libraries buttons, and the Lab and CMYK models.
Photoshop Extended CS6 has the following panels that Photoshop Elements 11 does not: 3D*, Brush, Brush Presets, Channels, Character, Character Styles, Clone Source,Color, Layer Comps, Measurement Log*, Notes, Paragraph, Paragraph Styles, Paths, Properties, Styles, Timeline, and Tool Presets.
Photoshop Elements does not support Extensions such as Mini Bridge and Kuler.
*These features are only available in Photoshop Extended and are not available in Photoshop Standard. See the Comparison Guide above for more feature differences.
[EDITORS NOTE: This is a work in progress, this list is not yet comprehensive]
Message was edited by: station_two

Camera shake reduction filter - double exposure blur problem

I am having a problem using the camera shake reduction filter to work on a digital image of an old photo which had a clear cut motion blur which formed a
double exposure when the camera motion stopped... this can be seen when the image is enlarged. Is it possible to sharpen these type of images ?

Can you post a small bit of it?
Usually the Shake Reduction tool will improve an image some, especially if you hunt around with the position, size, and shape of the analysis region until it gets it just about right, but there's really not a magical fix for motion-blurred images. Such an image, with whatever recovery mechanism, will not ever look as an image that's well-exposed to begin with.
-Noel

Effect or trick to allow full double exposure

hi sports fans,
I'm looking to try a double exposure style camera trick and I can't figure out how to pull this effect off in FCP. So here's the story.
I will be shooting (on miniDV) an actor who will have a few lines. After he says his lines, WITHOUT MOVING THE CAMERA, I will have him run through some other lines in a different position within the frame.
I'm trying to find a way to lay these two clips on top of each other so it will appear that he is interacting with himself. Just taking the opacity down on one clip won't do the trick. I want both images to be strong and not transparent.
Is there an effect in FCP that will allow me to have both images on the screen at 100% opacity?
Any help is super apprciated!
I also have Motion, is there anything in Motion that might fit the bill?

In the olden days, we'd have done this with a matte box in the camera, film camera.
You could do it in post using a wipe pattern that might be hidden by a set piece, say, a vertical post.
In addition to the suggestions already given, try looking up DIFFERENCE MATTE. It's difficult to get the shooting situation precise but it will absolutely give you the results you want.
The effect you describe has been for many decades in lots of different ways. It is popular in music videos and many of those have blogs or how-we-did-it Web sites for the artists or producers.
bogiesan

Double Exposure

Hi, I have a double-exposed b&w family photo from 1961, no negative as far as I can find, just the printed photo, that is a double exposure.
In the foreground, so to speak, is me at 3 months holding a rattle while lying on my parent's bed. In the background (though it's hard to say which pic was taken first) are my brother and an older sister having a snowball fight with a not far off barbed-wire fence and distant treeline with snow covered fields... The snow really blends into the bed spread and light colored walls of the bedroom...
Does anyone have any tips or techniques or pointers to such, for accurately separating the two images into separate photos using Photoshop? I'll be working with shades of gray, which may make things easier or maybe harder.
Thanks!

Both exposures are now a single image.
All that you can hope to do is to try to isolate a single item (like the baby) and clone out the overlapping objects that are "over-printed" over its surface.

Double Exposure RAW Files Poorly Processed

I have an Olympus OMD-EM5. I'm shooting double exposures and when I import the RAW files into Aperture, once the Aperture preview is generated the picture becomes horribly over processed. Saturation seems maxed out on things like leaves, but also colors shift: a pale blue flower turns deep purple. I tried shooting RAW + JPEGs and the JPEGs of course look fine in Aperture as they do in camera and are not reprocessed in any apparent way. So the glitch seems to be in processing RAW double exposures.
Is anyone else working with double exposures seeing the same problem with their RAW files? Any ideas and what is happening?
Thanks

atnbirdie wrote:
The camera manual says "a RAW image recorded on a card can be overlaid with multiple exposures and stored as a separate image.
It might be -- iirc, this is how Canon does it -- that the resulting "separate image" is a JPG (or can be viewed correctly only as a JPG).

Problem Exporting versions ---I get double exposures

To make calendars for Christmas gifts, yesterday I made a file on my Desktop to export images into. As in the past, my choices were: Export -> Versions - Jpeg Original 300. Problem: This time, all of the photos exported as double exposures - the double in all was the same, a photo from another project, appearing in the upper left corner, about 1/2 size. I first noticed this problem with a blog posting of 2 photos I did on Dec 6th. `Didn't think much of it then, and didn't do export any more versions until yesterday.
Background: I use Aperture 3, and it has been updated to 3.1.1 I tried Repairing the database and Rebuilding the database. Neither solved the problem. I considered moving the Album of Calendar photos into a whole new Library, but didn't know how to move them and maintain their size, without the Export Versions step - and hence having the same problem) F.Y.I. When I exported a Master, instead of a version, there was no double exposure.
Not one to give up and anxious to get the calendars ordered, this AM I went at it again ... same problem, but I found one way around it. i.e. When I use Export -> Version -> Original Size* --- there are no double exposures. (*vs Original Size 300) So, I'm back to the calendars adding photos via this route.
All explanations and problem solving suggestions will be appreciated. THANKS.

I didn't intentionally set up that watermark, and don't recall ever playing around to do so. But it was definitely there! Thanks to you, the problem is now solved. THANK YOU! THANK YOU! Happy Holidays!
Noreen
P.S. If I ever want to set up a watermark, I now have a sense of how to do it ... somehow scaling the watermark to be smaller and less invasive!

Double exposure effect

Hi,
I was trying to find a way to imitate analogue photography's double exposure but I failed. I did not find any useful online help neither. Of course I know about layers' blending options (multiply, screen) etc. What PS gives me at the moment are not at all satisfactory at all as the result always shows an 'effect' instead of seeing the two images merging into each other.
Any ideas will be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
Peter

I do this with Blend If sliders under Layer Options.
Simply double click the layer, and then move the sliders on "This Layer" or "Underlying Layer". You can split my channel color frequency, or by a global luminosity setting. This way you can target the exposed areas to blend only in shadows (like in film) or on highlights. It gives a lot of creative freedom and play. Once you start mixing hte Blending Modes, and the Blend-If sliders you can get a lot of the effect you're after.
Here is a video to see how I made this one that I just grabbed real quick from my machine. Double Exposure Tutorial.mp4 - Google Drive

Double Exposure Photograph

Is it possible to unscramble a photograph which is an accidental double exposure using any version of Photoshop elements V5 onwards, to get back to the original pictures. For example take a picture, landscape format, then rotate the camera and take a picture, portrait format. Then realise that the picture is a double exposure. Question...... is it possible using the functions of PSE to somehow obtain two separated layers from what is in effect a flattened image.

Plstsn wrote:
Sounds like you're trying to make a HDR from two images.
The minimum number of photos should be three.
http://help.adobe.com/en_US/Photoshop/11.0/WSfd1234e1c4b69f30ea53e41001031ab64-78e5a.html

Fixing Double-Checked Locking using Volatile

Oooh - what a scandalous subject title! :)
Anyhow, I was expanding my knowledge on why the double-checked locking idiom used in Singleton classes fails (after reading that JSR-133 is not going to fix the problem!), when I read http://www.cs.umd.edu/~pugh/java/memoryModel/DoubleCheckedLocking.html and found a spicy section titled "Fixing Double-Checked Locking using Volatile" (at the very bottom of the document).
As it is quite hard to find information (all sources revisit all the basic problems), I was wondering if anybody could back this up/refute it.
Just one more thing. I anticipate that many people who are researching this matter would like to have this clarified, so it would be beneficial to keep posts very much on topic. There is already a lot of information available about double locking failures in general.
The problem this post faces lies in a lot of statements saying "using volatile will NOT fix double-checked locking" that refer (I think) to the current JDK.
Thanks heaps!

Volatile only checks that not more than one thread is accessing the variable at the same time (amongst other things of course), so in the example, it could cause problems. Let me explain a little here. Given a situation where two threads wish to aquire the Helper:
Step 1: Thread 1 enters the method and checks the helper status
and sees that it is null.
private volatile Helper helper = null;
public Helper getHelper() {
if (helper == null) { // <!-- Thread 1 requires helper, and sees that it is null
     synchronized(this) {
        if (helper == null)
           helper = new Helper();
   return helper;
}Step 2: Thread 2 enters the method, before the lock can be
acquired on the this-object and notices that the helper is
null.
private volatile Helper helper = null;
public Helper getHelper() {
if (helper == null) { // <!-- Thread 2 requires helper also
     synchronized(this) { // and it is still null
        if (helper == null)
           helper = new Helper();
   return helper;
}Step 3: The first Thread creates a new Helper
private volatile Helper helper = null;
public Helper getHelper() {
if (helper == null) { // <!-- Thread 2 waiting for lock realeas
     synchronized(this) {
        if (helper == null)
           helper = new Helper(); // <!-- Thread 1 creating new Helper
   return helper; //
}Now for Step 4, there are a few possibilites here. Either Thread 1 returns the helper it created, or Thread 2 can create the new Helper before the Thread 1 returns the Helper. Either way, the result is unwanted.
private volatile Helper helper = null;
public Helper getHelper() {
if (helper == null) {
     synchronized(this) {
        if (helper == null)
           helper = new Helper(); // <!-- Thread 2 creating new Helper
   return helper; // <!-- Thread 1 returning Helper
}The code can also create interesting situations (deadlocks?) due to the synchronized(this) statement used in a ... creative way in this case.
I might be wrong of course. Just my �0.02.
Tuomas Rinta

Double exposure effect using rotoscope? Please Help!

I would like to create a double exposure effect like this one done in photoshop
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GesHc9y_zVY
I can't quite figure out how to do it, lets say the face is moving slightly, so I would rotoscope a mask around it, however how to I keep the background image within this mask? Can I use the same mask twice?
Thanks for any help

Use the face as an Alpha matte on the other image.
Mylenium

Mail: OS X 6. fixed double spacing when composing

Just upgraded MacMini from the first generation to 2009 and Snow Leopard. I'm disappointed that Mail is giving me the same problem that the old one did: when composing an email it sometimes double spaces and there is nowhere to fix it that I can find. What to do?
Appreciate your help.

Oww, Dennis, too much to do and too little time, sorry. I found another "solution" that has worked:
quote
found another thread on the same issue.
my 2008 2.66ghz 15" mbp was running at 91C (hot)
took a screen shot of the dock (using command-shift-3 and/or grab
cropped pdf screen shot so it was only the dock picture
deleted the user>library>preferences>com.apple.dock.plist file
forced quit on dock
new standard dock was created
opened dock pdf and then rebuilt the dock like it was before
problem solved
unquote
perhaps this helps
Lex

How To Fix Double Holiday Entries

Dear Volunteers,
Thanks for your help!
I have an issue with lightning calendar displaying
double holidays i.e. 2 Veterans Day notices.
Would you know how I might fix this?
Gratefully,
John Thomas

Hi Matt,
Thanks for your reply!
I think I have 1 instance of the holiday calendar installed and another that I subscribed to as a recommendation from Mozilla.
Would you know the complete file path so that I can check this and delete one of the holiday calendars?
Gratefully,
John

Superimpose one existing jpg photo onto another so it looks like a double exposure

Hi, I'm brand new to these forums & to Photoshop Elements. I have an older version 2.0.2 which Adobe no longer supports. I'm not in a position to upgrade. So, I'm begging for help.
I scanned two old photos and saved them to jpg files. I want to create one photo that has both images in it (like they do in some school & wedding photos where the full main image is center or slightly off center and a head shot is up in one corner.
I'm sorry if this doesn't make any sense, as I said, I'm brand new to this and I just don't know the proper terminology. I tried using help and following the instructions for layering. Only problem with that was when it said click on "move", I didn't know where move was. Plus it looks like layering wouldn't be transparent (but what do I know?). Anyway, I hope someone will take pity on a newbee and walk me thru this. Thank you!!

There are lots of ways to fix grainy pics. It all depends on the particular case. You might want to post yours at the free service http://www.pixentral.com (the one I used for my example). After you upload the pic, copy its pixentral url and put it in your message. I and other reader of this forum would be happy to offer suggestions.
There are also many downloadable noise reduction tools, some of which are stand-alone and some PSE add-ons. I have had good results with Noiseware. A free version is available at http://www.imagenomic.com/
As to internet tutorials, the best I've seen is Jay Arraich's PSE Tips at http://www.arraich.com/elements/psE_intro.htm
Other good ones are:
about.com tutorials and resources -
http://graphicssoft.about.com/od/pselements/Photoshop_Elements_Tutorials_and_User_Resource s.htm
Janee's tutorials -
http://myjanee.home.insightbb.com/tutorials.htm
I really think you should get a book on PSE2. Even though version 2 is out-of-date you can still find version 2 books online. I just did a Amazon book search on "photoshop elements 2" and it returned a ton of hits; the first was "Adobe Photoshop Elements 2 Complete Course". I also found some at eBay at rock-bottom prices.

How to fix double vertical scroll bar in responsive output

After implementing the solution provided for the question 'Responsive HTML5 Output: How to auto adjust the screen resolution for all devices?', the function bar in output does not appear and also another vertical scroll bar in the output. I edited the max-width value in the layoutfix.min.css file and fixed the function bar issue. How can I do away with the additional vertical scroll bar?

I've looked into the issue.
@Delennish: In your case, the size of the iframe is too large, or you have an extra empty element below the iframe. You can try 2 things:
1. Best solution but may have side effects: In the main.css, add the following code:
div.contentholder { overflow: hidden !important;}
For this option, please check for undesired side effects.
2. Works, but is ugly: In the main.css, add the following code:
div.floatholder iframe.wTopic { height: 95% !important;}
Try playing with the height setting until the 2nd scrollbar disappears.
@CarolW: The layout you're using is very old. I've made a new responsive layout with TOC only. Please use that one instead: http://www.wvanweelden.eu/sites/default/files/attachments/Theme1_Standard_TOC_Only.zip (I'll update my site with this new version later.)

Fix double exposure

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