Floor-dropped wireless mouse

I dropped my new wireless mouse on the floor and it stopped working -- no red light underneath. Naturally, this isn't covered under warranty or AppleCare, so my question now is if this is do-it-yourself fixable. I've taken the cover off the mouse but can see nothing loose or obviously out of place. Is there any hope for this thing or is the only solution to purchase a new one (I've hooked up an old faithful USB mouse for now)?
Thanks.
Lynn

I suppose not, but the deed's been done. Anyway, I don't think it's really worth lying about. Surely my mouse wasn't the first to fall off a table, and I naively assumed that Apple had built them to hold up to such occurrences and would replace/repair it, especially since it was practically still new. So much for naive assumptions. I don't think I'll get another of these mice unless Apple can show me that they'll survive at least a couple of falls.

Similar Messages

  • Wireless mouse intermittently drops out/stops working

    I have just bought a Mac Mini. I'm not a fan of Apple keyboards or mice, so I've bought a third party keyboard and I'm using a mouse that I already had (Microsoft Wireless Mouse 1000). Whilst it works fine with my Macbook Pro and PC, with the mini I get drop outs in the form of jerky movement and occassionally stopping long enough to see it just isn't moving. The mini works fine with a wired mouse.
    My gut feeling from playing around with the different mice and computers is that it is actually the aluminium case shielding the signal from the mouse (as both are on the desktop and the mini sits at the back of the desk with the USB ports on the back and a great chunk of aluminium therefore in front of it.
    I have a USB hub built in to the monitor, but that seems to have the same problem - the USB ports are behind the panel and associated electronics. Sadly, my keyboard (Ducky Zero DK2108) doesn't have a hub built in, so I can't connect the dongle to that either.
    I'm just surprised I haven't seen (after a lot of googling) other complaints about the same. I may have to reluctantly buy a Bluetooth mouse as the BT antenna is of course outside of the Alu case. An alternative may be to use a small USB hub that can be positioned with line-of-sight to the mouse. It seems absurd I would have to do either of those things.
    Can anyone else comment on their experiences?
    Thanks!

    Maybe this:
    https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5230278?tstart=0
    and
    http://www.macobserver.com/tmo/article/usb-3.0-hard-drives-can-cause-wi-fi-inter ference
    and
    Troubleshooting wireless mouse and keyboard issues
    I use an Apple KB and mouse on mine and have no problem. I do not use any USB 3 accessories

  • Whenever I click on my wireless mouse, a menu drops down containing several choices, and blocks the item that I clicked on.

    I have an iMAC with the Yellowstone OS installed.  This problem existed on the previous OS as well.  Whenever I click on my wireless mouse, a menu drops down with several options on it.  This menu then blocks my ability to click directly on the desired item.  This is very irritating.

    Try running this program and then copy and paste the output in a reply. The program was created by Etresoft, a frequent contributor.  Please use copy and paste as screen shots can be hard to read.
    Etrecheck – System Information

  • Dropped magic mouse on floor now it wont scroll down or swipe..broken or buy new one

    dropped magic mouse on floor now it wont scroll up or down or swipe..broken or buy new one?

    Buy a new one.  They are not repairable (to my knowledge).
    Barry

  • HP all in one: can I connect a non-wireless mouse to the computer

    I have an all-in-one desktop computer (HP pavilion with Windows 8) with wireless keyboard and wireless mouse. What happens if the mouse drops to the floor and breaks? Do I need a new mouse or can I connect a normal mouse with a USB to the computer? Or does the computer work ONLY with a wireless mouse?
    This question was solved.
    View Solution.

    You can connect a USB mouse to your all-in-one PC.
    You won't need to find any drivers since Windows 8 will provide the driver as soon as you plug in the mouse. 
    ****Please click on Accept As Solution if a suggestion solves your problem. It helps others facing the same problem to find a solution easily****
    2015 Microsoft MVP - Windows Experience Consumer

  • I plan of buying a new wireless mouse. Can I trade-in my old wireless mouse?

    I have a wireless mouse with serial number 8B9412FU6485A purchased several years ago. I may have damaged and dropped it on the floor. It does'nt respond anymore when prompted. I intend to purchase another mouse. Can I possibly trade-in my old mouse? I can go to the store if that would be the case. Thank you.

    Would I be right to assume you have tested the batteries and checked out the cleanliness of the contact points.  

  • Have to connect my wireless mouse each time

    Hi,
    I happen to be one of those people who shuts down my iMac at the end of each day of work. When I arrive the next morning and turn it on, it always says it cannot find a mouse to connect to.
    (I'm using Snow Leopard and a mouse that's probably more than a year. Also use a wireless keyboard which always connects automatically.)
    Even though my mouse is switched on, I always have to shut it off and turn it back on. Then my iMac finds it and connects to it.
    I have tried clicking the mouse to make the green light come on (I'm guessing that's what "make it discoverable" means--activate it in some way??)
    So is there any way to remedy this? It's getting really tiresome. Thinking of going back to the wired mouse.
    (I actually had this same problem when I first starting using the wireless mouse and stopped using it because I didn't want the hassle.)
    Thanks for your help!

    No. I, myself, made the mistake of assuming Discoverable meant the mouse, or whatever Bluetooth device you have paired, is discoverable and, therefore, needed so the computer can find it. That's not what it means. It means the computer is discoverable by other devices. And, other devices would include someone else nearby attempting to hack in by way of Bluetooth. I suppose if you live on a farm in Utah with the nearest neighbor fifty miles away, it's a moot point.
    I just realized what discoverable means because someone's SMART Phone in a nearby apartment yesterday was attempting to pair with my computer, I think quite by accident. I got a message to that effect and denied. It may also have meant that they left their phone, unwittingly, on Discoverable. In any case, Discoverable should be disabled
    On further research, I found that it's also advisable in Bluetooth Prefernces> Advanced to leave "Blutooth-PDA-Sync Modem" in "Serial ports that devices use to connect to this computer" unchecked (the default is checked, so uncheck it) and "Share my Internet connection with other Bluetooth devices" unchecked, as well.
    "Open BT Setup Assistant at startup".... "Allow BT device to wake" and "Prompt for all incoming audio requests" should all be checked.
    If your mouse is paired and made a Favorite, you should not drop the connection. Mine is now set up as above and I'm not having any issues staying connected.
    Perhaps leaving "Open Bluetooth Setup Assistant...."  checked, the default, presents a security risk. For the time being, I'm leaving it checked.
    See (scroll up a bit to page 17 to see the beginning)
    http://books.google.com/books?id=x3jWs7735WgC&pg=PA18&lpg=PA18&dq=uncheck+Blueto oth-PDA-Sync+modem+osx&source=bl&ots=JRvkm-rB17&sig=ITTmnKr3sKUWsR0Ge0RLW2kTw2Y& hl=en&ei=Z2dxTv_aH8Pb0QG-042OCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2&ved=0CB4Q 6AEwATgK#v=onepage&q&f=false
    On a related note, in SysPrefs>Sharing, uncheck everything, if not needed.

  • This is my secound wireless mouse and it is intermittent, what can i do?

    I purchased  last April an iMAC,and  in  four months ,the wireless  mouse became intermittent. Apple replaced it for me. Now i am having the same problem.
    Whats going on..I have never droped it to the floor,or bang on it hard.
    ruben

    Make sure rotation lock is not turned on.  Depending on how its set up, it is either in Control center, or using the side switch.
    If roattion lock is not on, try a reset.
    Hold down on the Home and power/sleep buttons at the same time until the Apple Logo shows up. Let the iPad reboot. No data should be lost.

  • Sleep Problem - Microsoft Wireless Mouse

    Hi Folks!
    I have a MBP Unibody, summer 2009, and I installed Snow Leopard last week.
    My computer won't sleep unless I close the cover. I know what the problem is, it is apparently my Microsoft Wireless Laser Mouse, which is plugged into my USB port. Removing the transmitter from the USB port solves the problem.
    Anyone know how this problem can be fixed? I like my wireless mouse!
    WJD

    I have a very similar problem. I have a 15" MBP March 2009. SL 10.6.1. I have a logitech Optical Mini Mouse, when I close the lid it trys to sleep, once the snoring or breathing led starts dimming, it wakes up and then trys to sleep again in a loop, an endless loop.
    I installed the logitech driver 3.1 for OS X 10.6, and that did not help, it behaves the same with and without the driver.
    removing the usb dongal solves the problem, and it sleeps just fine.
    Also drop down lists in firefox flash quickly and are nearly unusable, but work perfectly once the dongal is removed.

  • Since installing Lion, I have not been able to utilize Time Machine (does not recognize the back-up drive); my wireless mouse does not function properly; I have experienced unreasonable delays in the system.  Is there a fix or upgrade coming?

    Is there a fix or upgrade to deal with the many problems I am experiencing since I installed Lion?  I can no longer utilize Time Machine (Does not see the back-up drive); my wireless mouse does not work properly; my iMac has slowed down considerably.  I am reminded of having a PC machine again.  Bummer!

    Either downgrade to Snow Leopard or try reinstalling Lion.
    Reinstalling Lion Without the Installer
    Boot to the Recovery HD: Restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the COMMAND and R keys until the menu screen appears. Alterhatively, restart the computer and after the chime press and hold down the OPTION key until the boot manager screen appears. Select the Recovery HD and click on the downward pointing arrow button.
    Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions: Upon startup select Disk Utility from the main menu. Repair the Hard Drive and Permissions as follows.
    When the recovery menu appears select Disk Utility. After DU loads select your hard drive entry (mfgr.'s ID and drive size) from the the left side list.  In the DU status area you will see an entry for the S.M.A.R.T. status of the hard drive.  If it does not say "Verified" then the hard drive is failing or failed. (SMART status is not reported on external Firewire or USB drives.) If the drive is "Verified" then select your OS X volume from the list on the left (sub-entry below the drive entry,) click on the First Aid tab, then click on the Repair Disk button. If DU reports any errors that have been fixed, then re-run Repair Disk until no errors are reported. If no errors are reported click on the Repair Permissions button. Wait until the operation completes, then quit DU and return to the main menu.
    Reinstall Lion: Select Reinstall Lion and click on the Continue button.
    Note: You can also re-download the Lion installer by opening the App Store application. Hold down the OPTION key and click on the Purchases icon in the toolbar. You should now see an active Install button to the right of your Lion purchase entry. There are situations in which this will not work. For example, if you are already booted into the Lion you originally purchased with your Apple ID or if an instance of the Lion installer is located anywhere on your computer.
    Downgrade Lion to Snow Leopard
    1.  Boot from your Snow Leopard Installer Disc. After the installer loads select your language and click on the Continue button.  When the menu bar appears select Disk Utility from the Utilities menu.
    2. After DU loads select your hard drive (this is the entry with the mfgr.'s ID and size) from the left side list. Note the SMART status of the drive in DU's status area.  If it does not say "Verified" then the drive is failing or has failed and will need replacing.  SMART info will not be reported  on external drives. Otherwise, click on the Partition tab in the DU main window.
    3. Under the Volume Scheme heading set the number of partitions from the drop down menu to one. Set the format type to Mac OS Extended (Journaled.) Click on the Options button, set the partition scheme to GUID then click on the OK button. Click on the Partition button and wait until the process has completed.
    4. Quit DU and return to the installer. Install Snow Leopard.
    This will erase the whole drive so be sure to backup your files if you don't have a backup already. If you have performed a TM backup using Lion be aware that you cannot restore from that backup in Snow Leopard (see below.) I suggest you make a separate backup using Carbon Copy Cloner 3.4.1.
    If you have Snow Leopard Time Machine backups, do a full system restore per #14 in Time Machine - Frequently Asked Questions.  If you have subsequent backups from Lion, you can restore newer items selectively, via the "Star Wars" display, per #15 there, but be careful; some Snow Leopard apps may not work with the Lion files.

  • Wired and wireless mouse problems...

    Hey, looking for someone who can help me with a mouse connection problem I'm having with my G4 powerbook. Originally I was using a bluetooth wireless mouse and it would seemingly loose its connection. Example, I'm surfing Safari and I go to click a link with my mouse and then the cursor disappears up into the left corner. I have to move it around a bit before it gets its connection back. To test this I put the computer with hot corners to start expose. I would be surfing and BAM expose is activated.
    Ok potentially crappy mouse. I plug in my USB mighty mouse and BAM, it does the same thing. I still have apple care on the laptop, but the nearest apple store is an hour away so I was hoping someone might be able to shed some light on this annoying problem.
    Anyone...?

    I have the same issue. Left and Right buttons are programed as "primary" and "secondary" respectively, but any action on the mouse activates the right button drop down menu. I changed out my wireless mouse to the wired mouse, rebooted and changed USB ports but not change. My keyboard is not typing either?
    Looking forward to some GURU type insights here....?

  • Solution found for waking up wireless mouse after it goes to sleep

    I've seen a couple posting saying they were having the same problem with the wireless mouse that comes with the Lenovo Enhanced Performance Wireless Keyboard and Mouse
    Problem:  After a period of time the mouse goes into a sleep mode while the keyboard appears to be functioning.  Sliding the mouse back and forth does nothing to awaken it.  Most people report having to mash the little yellow sync button on the mouse and usb dongle.
    Solution:  Pick up the mouse just far enough to break the surface that it is sitting on and 'drop' it back down.  Mouse turns back on.
    I've tried the above steps several time on three seperate setups that we have and it has worked each time.

    You do not have a RAM disk unless you set one up. Currently, Mac OS X does not support the creation of a RAM disk except through third-party utilities such as ramBunctious. Basically, a RAM disk is a virtual disk that you can store files on for very fast access or to reduce disk usage while running on battery power. This disk is based in RAM, and so will be lost (unless written to disk) when power is removed. In this case, "losing" the RAM disk would mean forgetting that one was set up to be created in memory.
    If you're getting the beeps and LED flashing, that sounds like a hardware problem—specifically RAM. (Support article)
    PowerBook G4 12" Mac OS X (10.4.6) 1.5 GHz

  • Wireless mouse lock-ups (Rapoo 1620)

    Hi,
    I've been using my wireless mouse more recently (Rapoo 1620) on  my 64-bit installation of Arch Linux (64-bit, using XMonad), and it generally works okay but with a frequent slightly annoying issue - it tends to stop working after I switch to typing on my keyboard then try to use my mouse again. Once it does start working, as long as I keep using it it will very rarely (if at all - I can't entirely recall) lock up again - only after I go back to using the keybaord and my mouse remains inactive for a period of time.
    Has anyone come across this issue before? Any insight would be greately appreciated.
    Thanks!

    I would be concerned that you may have a power supply going bad. Unfortunately the only way to test this theory is to replace it. If you do replace it may sure you get one that is rated at a high enough wattage to supply your system. I use a 500 watt power supply. I have had power supplies to go bad on me in the past. Sometimes the power supplies will not go entirely out, they just stop producing as much power as they normally would. This can cause some weird things to happen in your system. I've had one go bad and it was providing enough juice to let my computer cut on, but the video card wasn't getting enough?juice to operate thus I was getting a blank screen. I would also like to know if you are overclocking. Sometimes overclocking can cause heat issues that could cause a similar problem to what you are having.

  • When i wake my iMac there is no wireless mouse or keyboard functionality. I have to reboot the computer to make them work.

    If my imac is left sleeping for any length of time there is no wireless mouse or keyboard functionality and the imac keeps returning to sleep. I have to hold the power button to wake the machine as the mouse and keyboard do not work. T o rectify the problem i have to hold the power button until the mac switches off and then re-boot the machine.

    Don't sleep the computer and its HDs, just the display. I've been doing that for years, run 24/7, and never have an issue, but then again I only use wired keyboards and mice.

  • Macbook Pro Retina (15") can't connect to wireless mouse and external USB keyboard

    Hi All,
    I got my new MacBook Pro Retina (15 inch) about 3 weeks ago. It works fine. I got a 30" Dell screen that I am using via thunderbolt/usb adapter. Also, I am using a thunderbolt ethernet adapter. Both adapters work fine without any problems.
    I have an apple usb keyboard connected to the USB hub of the screen, as well as my iphone cable. It is a regular, full size apple keyboard. In addition to this, I have a logitech nano connected directly to the right usb port of the macbook pro.
    This setup was working well until a few days ago. I lost connectivity with my mouse. Initially, I thought the batteries are empty. After replacing them, I still had no connection (again, the usb receiver is *directly* connected to the macbook).
    I changed a few cables here and there and noticed that I can get either the keyboard to work or the mouse but not both at the same time. A reboot did not help.
    Did anybody encounter such a strange problem already? If so, what could I possibly do?
    Thank You,
    --Martin

    Hello nikkig00,
    It is certainly difficult to use the computer if your wireless keyboard and mouse do not connect.  I found a few resources I recommend for this issue.
    I recommend reviewing this article first:
    Troubleshooting wireless mouse and keyboard issues
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3048
    If the issue persists, I recommend reviewing the section titled "Top troubleshooting tips" in the article below.  Step 9 specifically stands out to me for the issue you described:
    9. Restart your computer
    Sometimes a simple restart of your Mac is all it takes to get things running smoothly again. You may also want to try resetting your computer's PRAM and NVRAM.
    Bluetooth Quick Assist
    http://support.apple.com/kb/ht1153
    Thank you for using Apple Support Communities.
    Best,
    Sheila M.

Maybe you are looking for

  • Dynamic credit

    Hi All, Now surprisingly  when i create a sales order  i noticed that output tax MWST  is populated in item level but not in header level. As i continue to save the order and then in change mode i noticed that MWST is dissapeared from item level also

  • How I Got my Windows PC to recognize my Ipod Nano 3rd gen

    Much like many of you, I could not get my computer to recognize my brand new Ipod Nano 3g. I was able to fix it, and now hope that this post will help others: *The Symptom:* After plugging Ipod in, Windows recognizes a new USB device had been plugged

  • Problem filling Arch infostructure for COPA2_S001 - field catalog?

    I'm not sure I'm posting this ti the correct forum, but I'll give it a try. Archivingobject COPA2_S001 is used to archive Copa data (account based CoPa). As the profitability analysis archiving objects depend on the operating concern (generated by th

  • HTML inside Flash a joke?

    I'm not really sure what's going on here...I've had some bad HTML tranlation on flash's behalf before, but never as bad as this. It seems all my carriage returns are getting displayed and all my <br> tags are being ignored. I'm setting htmlText for s

  • Error by console with jvm of sun

    Hello everybody: I have an application makes with applets, but I get the next error by console: java.lang.ClassCastException: sun.plugin.AppletViewer cannot be cast to java.awt.Frame      at onda.gui.AppValidacion.init(AppValidacion.java:82)      at