Flyback Transformer on imac dv400

Hi,
Can anyone advise me whether I can use the external monitor for imac dv400 (Slot loading) if my CRT is already dead due to Flyback Transformer ?I understand the early Imac models able to do so by just unplug the old cables and insert the new one.
I hope that the video adapter is not integrated in the motherboard on this model.
Regards
Malcolm
iMac DV 400 512RAM 10 GB Mac OS X (10.3.9)

Thanks for your reply.Just wonder how you disable the internal CRT display. This model seem to work with only video mirroring when attached with external monitor.Is the DV 400 model same as early imac configuration.Pls see below link for further details.
http://www.djonmac.com/links/flybacktransfor.html

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both the CRT and at least the High Voltage section of the PAV are likely bad. Right?<</div>
No only the PAV sounds like it's going bad. The fact that the CRT lights up means that it's good. The silver box on the back of the CRT that Apple refers to as the Video Board is part of the PAV. In fact when you replace the PAV you want to keep that same Video Board with the CRT so it involves cutting and splicing of 2 wires.
Let the HV on the PAV die and use an external Monitor<</div>
Most likely it's the flyback transformer on the PAV that is going and when that goes it's usually it's the Anode section that dies.
If I go with one of the options using an external Monitor, do I need to disconnect the internal CRT? I mean, I know that I don't have to disconnect the internal CRT to use an external Monitor but would it be better to?<</div>
Well if the Anode section dies then mute point because the HV will be gone anyway.
Replace the PAV, use an external Monitor<</div>
If you replace the PAV (deadly voltages involved! Also working PAVs are hard to come by) you wouldn't need an external monitor because the internal one would then work. My son has a 700 Snow that I dropped a DVD-ROM from a 500 Graphite into. Had to use Pacifist to get it to work. Hooked up an external LCD. Now he's watching Pirates II in stereo. He also uses it for Garage Band.
R

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From the developer note for the Rev A iMac:
Video Display
The built-in video display uses a 15-inch CRT (13.8-inch viewable diagonal). The CRT uses shadow-mask technology and has a dot pitch of 0.28 mm. The display is multi-scan and supports three resolutions. Table 3-2 lists the resolutions and the pixel depths supported with either the standard 2 MB of SGRAM or with expanded SGRAM.
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Resolution Vertical rate Pixel depth (2 MB SGRAM) Pixel depth (4 or 6 MB SGRAM)
640 by 480 117.233 Hz 32 bits 32 bits
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1024 by 768 75.03 Hz 16 bits 32 bits
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Okay, hi everyone.
I've got a second hand iMac G3. It had problems with the hard drive earlier, so that's been replaced...
In the past month and a bit my computer has been abruptly turning off (not completely, the white light of the power button is still on when this happens) with no aparant cause. The screen just goes black like turning of a TV screen and I can't do anything but turn it completely off by holding the power button.
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A lot of the time this has happened when I've just walked away from the computer without it doing anything, other times it happens right in the middle of doing something..
I haven't followed up the problem due to not knowing what it was at first and lack of time, especially this past month since I've been away overseas.
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No Kittytom is referring to his having found that his iMac wouldn't boot right side up but would upside down. Further circuit disturbance showed that it was bad soldering on the Flyback transformer that was the problem.
Also common were bad soldering on the HV capacitors in the area of the FT. Or just bad capacitors.
If your iMac had cap problems it would exibit that behavior.
Slow breakdown in the insulation of the FT would also act like that.
Richard

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[Apple video to VGA adapter|http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Switchable-Apple-Mac-to-VGA-Video-Adapter-TVCS- 183_W0QQitemZ360087077864QQihZ023QQcategoryZ3762QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZVie wItem]
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When my 333 MHz iMac started to do this, it was the analog video board. There's a part on there called the flyback transformer that fails. It could also be the power supply or even a dead PRAM battery. Here's a simple way to narrow down the possibilities.
Remove the bottom plastic panel. There is an internal video cable that connects to the "carrier" with the motherboard, drives, and CPU card. Disconnect that cable, and with that cable disconnected, start the iMac. You won't see any video, but if the iMac "sounds" like it is starting up normally, then the problem is most likely the analog video board. [You can shut down normally by pressing the power button once and the pressing enter.]
If that is the case, or even if it is the power supply board, you can do something that is easier than "cannibalizing." If you have previously upgraded RAM, you should know how to remove the internal "carrier" that holds the drives, motherboard, and CPU card. Just remove it (the whole carrier assembly) from both the 333 and 233 and swap them. I'm assuming that the 233 is otherwise working, of course. There are a few things different, such as no IrDA in the 333, but the 233-333 iMac "bodies" are otherwise interchangeable.
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is this thing going to explode, catch fire? it has never been opened, or anything...
please help, this was my first USB based Mac!!!

That sounds just like symptoms of Flyback Transformer (FBT) failure. A very common problem in early, tray-loading iMacs.
You can fix it yourself, if you are comfortable working around HIGH VOLTAGE. Look here - MacOpz Flyback Transformer repair.
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I have one of the original iMac (bondi) colored which I have used at my school site for as long as they have been out. Two days ago this iMac stopped working. It made a funny sound, then "poof" off it went. It could not be restarted.
I unplugged it and left it alone for a couple of hours. When I plugged it back in and turned it on, it acted like it was going to start up, but it clicked off. I have tried replacing the power cord, but still it does not come on.
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Hi Steve,
Was your iMac display working when you heard a pop? I have seen on this board discussions about the "flyback" transformer going bad and causes the display to stop working. One this happens, it is very difficult and expensive to repair. There are a couple of fixes you can try:
#1. You can use an external display by plugging it into the display port on the underside of the case. (This would work if you can find a monitor and connectors around.)
#2: You can take the HD out of the iMac and install it in another mac to retreive your data.
I found this on the discussion board (I am not sure which topic, I forgot to copy it, but I found it be searching for "flyback transformer"):
The dark screen and a zapping or crackling sound are classic symptoms of a blown transformer.
There is a test you can preform to see if it is the flyback transformer:
1. Unplug the computer and remover the bottom cover of the iMac and disconnect the main video cable. That's the one held in by 2 screws.
2. Try to startup the computer with the video cable disconnected.
3. Listen carefully to the iMac. Does it sound like it is starting up? Do you heard the normal hard drive sounds? If so, then your flyback transformer is dead. If you don't hear the normal startup sounds and it shuts down right away, the the problem is something else. Like a bad power supply or something like that.
If you hear the computer try to start up, this it is the display transformer. If not, you may have a bad power supply.
Home this helps,
Robert

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Hi,
I dumpster dive, gather, restore, upgrade and repair iMacs near Chicago.
These are typically high needs schools. Many have no computers at all!
The iMac is particularly well suited to this application.
A. It has a small foot print and is self contained.
B. Mac software is intuitive and easy for teachers and students to use
right away.
C. The kids think they're cute! I've seen kids hug iMacs! I don't see
that with any other computer.
So I can see why you're so attached to your Lime iMac. My 9 year old daughter calls her's "Pinky" (Strawberry iMac).
Generally the symptoms you're describing are due to a failing PAV board. This is the brown board that you can see under the clear top with all the big parts on it. The most likely culprit is the flyback transformer. The insulation breaks down with long usage when it heats up and starts to fail. Usually shorts out probably the buzzing you hear. Sometimes this will fail but the computer will still run with an external monitor. (spigot is under the perforated grill under toward the back.)
My general repair procedure with these is to pull the logic board and put it into a working 350.
An alternative in your case would be to find a working 400 - 700 used, buy it ($20 - $70 around here in Chicago) and swap the colored parts on your Lime onto that machine.
Richard

IMac abruptly shuts off and makes a clicking noise

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I have been fooling around with it for a while, and have noticed if I put the >computer on it's side, or upside down, it will almost always power up and work >correctly.
Wow that's some good diagnostic technique. Good job.
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eMail me for more info.
Richard

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Oh, and I forgot to mention that I've tried to reset the PRAM as well, it still just shuts down.

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Anyone have any experience with this issue in the original iMacs? I know I can buy replacements on eBay for crazy cheap but I'm quite sentimental about this machine and don't want to call it dead just yet.
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My favorite was the first Star Trek Elite Force game. That pushed that Voodoo card to its limits, and it ran surprisingly well. It was almost unplayable using the stock graphics. I'm sure my 466 MHz G3 upgrade helped too (it's an early pre-bankrupt Newer Tech card before the later G4 products and even before the first Mac OS X release).
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If that works, you can shut it down (after it completes the startup sequence) by pressing the power button and then Return. And that would most likely indicate a problem with the analog video board (aka PAV). It works now because you are bypassing the internal video, and the iMac passes the startup hardware test.

Imac won't boot; needs repair. But what part to replace?

My iMac G3 tray loading 266mhz will not boot.. i press the power button, the screen makes starting noise and the i can hear the cooling fan.. but the screen is still black and the power light is orange.
Tried a new pram battery
Tried resetting the CUDA button and waiting for all power to be drained
Tried switching the ram
Tried new power cable
No keyboard commands work; computer does not boot at all
Now I just need to know what part to replace
Power supply?
Motherboard?
CPU board?
How can I diagnose which part is not working?

Flyback Transformer
The dark screen and a zapping or crackling sound are classic symptoms of a blown transformer.
There is a test you can preform to see if it is the flyback transformer:
1. Unplug the computer and remover the bottom cover of the iMac and disconnect the main video cable. That's the one held in by 2 screws.
2. Try to startup the computer with the video cable disconnected.
3. Listen carefully to the iMac. Does it sound like it is starting up? Do you heard the normal hard drive sounds? If so, then your flyback transformer is dead. If you don't hear the normal startup sounds and it shuts down right away, the the problem is something else. Like a bad power supply or something like that.
Special shout out & thanks to djon for the above valuable information.

Flyback Transformer on imac dv400

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