Fm transmitting and charging in car

i used to have a 20gb b/w ipod w/ click wheel. i used a griffin iTrip to broadcast on my car stereo while charging with a dock connector car charger.
I have upgraded to a 5G 30gb ipod, and to my dismay, my old iTrip is not compatible. i have been looking everywhere for an fm transmitter which i can use WHILE charging in the car, but that does not need to be plugged in in the car to work.
everything i have found either plugs into the dock connector, preventing me from charging my iPod in the car, which will be rough since i drive a lot, or plugs into the headphone jack but requires batteries, or has to be plugged into the lighter outlet to work.
does anyone have suggestions? any good products that you could recommend?
imac 600 Mac OS X (10.4.6) ipod 5G 30gb

http://www.macmall.com/macmall/shop/detail~dpno~180879.asp
this is powered through the ipod and has a usb and firewire port on it, you can just get a car charger plug to usb or firewire
heres a usb one
http://www.macmall.com/macmall/shop/detail~dpno~566878.asp

Similar Messages

Hi there, Will be possible listen and charge at the same time my iPod shuffle in my car?

Hi there, Will be possible listen and charge at the same time my iPod shuffle in my car? I have got a jack going to my sound system the issue i would like to solve is charging at the same time

Since the shuffle (except for the 1st gen shuffle) uses the same "port" (the headphones jack) for sound output and charging, there is no way to do both concurrently.
NOTE: You can charge and play at the same time on the old white 1st gen shuffle that looks like a USB flash drive.

IPad charging in car and connection to CD changer unit at the same time

Hi all,
Firstly, this is my first post here, so apologies if my post is either considered rude or unto wards in any fashion. Apologies also if this question has been covered elsewhere - I have searched the forums to sone extent, but cannot guarantee that I haven't missed something!
I'm looking for a splitter cable for in-car use with the iPad.
The specifics of my car stereo are as such :
no bluetooth
No AUX either.
I have a CD Changer connect at the rear of the car head unit, to which is attached a factory installed cable. This cable is CD Changer plug for the car stereo end, going to 30-pin connector at the other end.
This is a perfect solution for my old iPod photo - it allows me to control the iPod via the car stereo, AND charge the iPod at the same time.
However...
I have an iPad 2 which I would like to use in place of the iPod photo. I wish to plug the iPod (Music app) into the car stereo, and use one of the GPS apps, AND charge the iPad 2 all at the same time.
There is not enough juice coming from the car stereo to allow me to do all this concurrently, as you will probably be aware. If my car journeys were short, I would not be too worried, but I often use the car for journeys that are longer than 10 hours. The iPad, with the GPS and iPod apps running at the same time, will not remain "alive" for this amount of time - the longest I've managed is about 6 and a half hours before the iPad runs out of juice.
So I'm looking for a splitter that I can slot into the dock connection of the iPad and will split into USB for the cigar lighter and into a 30 pin (female) that will go to the 30 pin (male) connector that runs to the CD Changer port on the car stereo.
In other words (and I hope this diagram works) :
                                                              IPad
                                                         USB.     30-pin (f)
                                                        /.                 30-pin (m)
                                            Cigar lighter.                CD Changer plug
I have looked everywhere on line, have contacted various cable suppliers (such as USBFever) but up 'till now I have had no joy.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance.

Thanks, Rudegar, for your reply.
Unfortunately, I wouldn't know where to start, not being terribly technically minded. And I'm not sure that this would be an economic resolution - would this involve buying soldering irons etc.? And would I be able to be sure that I wouldn't mess something up, and cause overheating/other damage to the iPad itself?
Surely this must be a fairly common problem, however? I'm sure that I'm not the only one looking for such thing??
Anyone else have a solution?
Thanks.

Listen and charge your shuffle in a car

please do something about it,
why there always has to be some issue with the mac products?
is it too much to ask to be able to charge your ipod and listen to it at the same time?
what were the the designers thinking when they made the 2nd generation.
please give another 2.5mm connector or make a useable splitter(since there isn't one available yet).
my car is full of cables and plugging and unplugging them does not seem to be in line with the apple's "uncluttered" design concept.
things like this is what ruins apple's reputation.
another thing,
i have an mac air and no way to connect it to wired internet ethernet cable if wireless in not available. ehm.
thanks

coarsair49 wrote:
Hi Ari & Shuffiej,
I'm working on a design for integrating the shuffle for automotive use. It's important to be able to charge (5-volts via a linear voltage regulator) and play analog audio at the same time (via 3.5mm male plug). Do either of you know if the audio out circuits and the 5-volt charging circuit can be utilized simultaniusly. (I can have a plug specially made to physically work but don't know if the circuitry within the shuffle will allow this)
Given that Griffin Technology makes an iPod dock adapter for the shuffle
with a switch for "play" or "charge", I'd be pretty safe in guessing that
the audio and charging circuit can NOT be used simultaneously...

HT1476 Charging an iPhone is there any difference from charging in a car and charging from a wall outlet?

Charging an iPhone is there any difference from charging in a car and charging from a wall outlet?

As long as both chargers meet the required specs, no.

Audi Bluetooth does NOT Work After Update 8.02 and neither my car charger

aAfter Update iOS 8.02 Bluetooth. Audi does NOT Work - Connection is ok bit cant talk with Connection
and also The car charter does NOT work

Hi Lars - I had the same issue - found the help on audi-sport.net - link:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/iphone-6-not-functioning-correctly-when-con nect-to-mmi.227675/
see page 2 of the postings under veeeight's suggestion (7 steps). Pasted from the forum.
1. Rename your new iPhone
2. Delete all Bluetooth phone pairings from the Audi MMI
3. Reset All Settings
4. Reset Network Settings
5. Reset Network Settings again
6. Connect to WiFi on your phone (optional)
7. Do the pairing with the car again.
I was able to resolve this on my 2011 A4 with MMI. That's after I have updated my iPhone 6 with 8.0.2
Hope this helps you and anyone else having the same issues.

IPhone 3G no longer charges from car stereo

Hello all,
I can no longer charge my iPhone 3g from my car stereo since updating to version 2.1.
I have a Panasonic CQ-RX400U with a USB connector on the front. Prior to the update I was able to connect and charge the phone and play the iPod from the stereo using the USB to iPod/iPhone cable. There was a compatibility warning on the iPhone when I did this, but it worked. After the update, the phone makes the initial charging sound, but never gets to the iPod, then repeatedly tries to connect without success and continuing t make the charging chirp sound.
Just wondering if anyone experienced similar issues post 2.1 update.
I'm going to ask Panasonic if the may have an update available as well, to correct the problem.
Thanks,
Bob Y.

I'm afraid that the link is somewhat irrelevant to my problem.
The problem is, that nothing happens whatsoever, when I connect my iphone to my computer. No charge, no nothing.
I connected my fiances iphone to my computer and it charged, and itunes recognized it without any problem.
However, I did try what the link suggested and nothing worked

Battery and charging issues

I have a DROID X and have been having issues for the last few weeks with my phone staying charged and charging. I have had both my home and car chargers replaced. Everytime I charge my phone it says that it is charging bit the battery level does not improve. When I use my roommates charger it charges fine. Also the battery says I have a certain % of battery left then the next minute it goes down 10%andthat that happens whether it is charging or not. I don't know if a certain app could be causing this or if the phone is junk and I need to get it replaced. Its getting annoying that I have to charge it every night and can't be away from home because I wont have a charger. PLEASE HELP!!!

trfalsone wrote:
What app or type of app would you think could be causing the problem? I don't want to uninstall or factory reset my phone...if I wanted to do that I would just get a replacement phone. I do have an ATK on my phone...
From your home screen, press menu>settings>about phone>battery use (unless Moto moved it). This will give you a list of apps with a percentage of how much battery they have used. Also an app called system panel in the market will help you to monitor what is using system resources. I would also personally recommend uninstalling ATK, though not all users would agree with me. Maybe try turning off autokill and see if that helps. I do agree with dirkbonn, though, that it sounds like a bad charger,

TA27749 6th generation ipod nano does not charge in car - Please help!!!!!

I have a 07 BMW 5 series and a 6th generation ipod nano. The ipod plays fine through the car but it does not charge. The ipod I used previously was able to play and charge. Is there a way that I can get the new ipod to charge?
Please help!

See this Apple support document for help and instructions on disabling VoiceOver on your Nano.
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4317
B-rock

USBOTG and Charge Simultaneously on Stream 8

To keep this thread as efficient and productive as possible for all those who it will be useful to: Unless you have in front of you1. A schematic of the Stream 8 USB port (USB port and battery power circuit etc)2. Source code of the BIOS firmware and kernel which control the hardware Please DO NOT reply simpy to say "this is not possible". Given the above being true, you do not have enough info to say "not possible". If no one replys with a solution, let it be called impossible by default. Also please do not reply to say "I don't know how" or "but I know how to do this other thing" thats also not so helpful. A BIOS update or other software update may be required by HP, Microsoft or both to make this really intuitive, and completely possible, functionality available. And hopefully this thread can be a consolidated effort by all of us who have the Stream 8 to bring any such necessary changes about. A majority of other tablet PC are capable of this. It seems that only the Stream 8 and a few others have trouble with it. ~~~~ I desire the ability to use a simple, perhaps standard, inexpensive cable (with minimal active electronics inside) that allows me to host and use one or more USB devices on the Stream 8 via its USB micro B port while this cable can also be connected to a standard charger and charge the Stream 8 simultaneously. This means the cable has a minimum of three connectors. One possible configuration is as follows (leaving the normal charge cable aside): 1. USB Micro B Male - to connect to the Stream 82. USB A Male - to connect to the AC charger (ie the one that came with the Stream 8)3. USB A Female - one or more connectors to plug in USB data stick, keyboard, mouse or even a hub. Connector # 2. above will provide power to charge the Stream 8 via conn. #1 and also supply power to the external USB device(s) via conn. #3 while they are in use - all simultaneously. A plus if the same cable can act as a normal OTG without a charger for when no external power is available. Maybe this will require a switch or some active electrontics inside. The final part of this goal is kind of important for various reasons. I would like HP, the maker of the Stream 8, to state in writing the correct mode necessary to do this so that other manufacturers or even do-it yourselfers can make maximal use of their HP tablet equipment. ~~~~ The neat thing this will alow a person to do with their tablet, is to work at home using the tablet like a desktop PC by connecting a keyboard, mouse, perhaps external display (with USB to display adapter) and work for a long time without being time limited by battery life because the charger supplies the power to everything involved. If there is only one #3 connector on the cable then an additional hub of coarse would be required to provide support for those multiple USB devices at once. However it would be better if there were multiple of the #3 connectors built in to the cable itself. This would be best because a proper USB hub also requires its own power. Only one power adapter would be needed if the whole thing were integrated into one. ~~~~ I would really like replys from anyone who has already accomplished USB OTG plus simultaneous charging with the Stream 8. (independant of any published "correct" way is also welcome) The date today is 2015-01-16. If by 2015-02-16 (one month) no one has posted a solution then lets start to bug HP and Microsoft about it shall we? ~~~~ Technical Background: I understand the possibility that the tablet software and or firmware needs to make a decision about which way power is flowing on the power pins of the USB mirco B port. I know that with proper design the electronic circuit carring these power signals inside the tablet could be sensitive to what is plugged in and safely decide for itself what to do without any need for software control. For example by periodically testing/sensing voltage differentials or current direction to see which sides of the connector can supply power. But that is only one of many "could bes" Furthermore this may be non-standard with respect to the USB standard. What appears to actually be the case with many OTG+Charge cables is that physical cues built into the cable or charger are used to signal to the tablet what the situation is. Then the tablet's firmware/software recieves the signal, interprets what the situation is intelligently and responds by flipping the correct hardware control bits to turn on, or off power flow at the port and also control its direction in or out. I am not familiar with the USB standard. Perhaps I could do more research, if I had faith that HP followed it with the Stream 8 or even that the standard covered this situation explicitly. But to a degree it seems like I am having to invent something that should intuitively just exist as it does with other tablets. No? Maybe I am overthinking but I can't find any USB OTG + Charge cables that specify compatibility with the HP Stream 8. Anyway, I have been made familiar with two methods other tablets use to send the above mentioned signal to the hardware/firmware/software of the tablet to clue it in that it is time to charge vs. time to OTG or both. The first method is a 0 Ohm to 200 Ohm short between USB A pins 2 and 3. Those are the bidirectional, differential data lines D- and D+ respectively. In data mode all data goes back and forth on these lines. When you charge via a data cable, it is the charger module which places this short, not the cable. I have measured the short on three different chargers. It is 0 Ohms on two of them, one of those being the charger which came with the HP Stream 8. The other 0 ohms was generic. The third was for an apple iPad and it measured about 53KOhms. That is probably not the 0-200 Ohm resistor but probably it is the termination impedance indicating that there is some communication intelligent serial port in the charger itself. Let it up to Apple to be different. This method is somewhat moot because this mode of signaling would prevent OTG + Charge because it seems unlikely that you'll be able to OTG when the data lines are shorted to one another and loaded down with such low impedance. I could be wrong about this. . . The other method I have seen suggested to work with some tablets and phones other than the Stream 8, is to short the USB Micro B pin 5 to pin 4 with 0 Ohms to 100,000 Ohms. USB B has 5 pins. USB A only has 4. The extra pin on B displaces the GND pin from pin 4 to pin 5 and makes pin 4 an ID pin. So this signal applies a pull-down to the ID pin (pin 4) or in some cases I have seen it suggested to short it down with 0 Ohms. Dead shorting things always makes me nervous. If ID is a simple high impedance normally high input, a resistor could be used to make the voltage well below the low or zero threshold while also preventing the risk of damage when fooling with a device you don't have the schematic for. Still, 100K is a little high for a "pull down" in most situations I am used to. Even a 10K would be iffy. A 1 K or 2 K seems pretty safe but then things are lower and lower current these days. . . Anything but a dead short though if possible. So it seems possible to me that the device might be able to "identify" by the specific value of the resistor that is here. In other words the resistor is not a pull down but actually an analog ID signature, in which case the exact value will be critical. So if this is the case, a guess isn't going to work. Obviously in any such scheme as described above, some chip inside the Stream 8 would need to be responsible for supporting such intelligence. I am hoping that the Stream 8 has such a chip. Likely a register inside that chip would reflect at all times what the state of the ID pin is with a binary number. All that is needed is for the BIOS to address the chip and the register in it and read that number via the bus to determine what is going on at the port. Finally it would use that info to send hardware control signals to the power electrontics to set the proper direction for power to flow etc. (and change the state of the icon on the screen of coarse) I am not sure if the ID pin method described is a USB standard or not either. There may possibly be a third way. But I do not suspect it would be possible with a non-active external device. In any case too complicated for the novice DIY for sure. The apparatus would need to act is some kind of bus extender. Like an active hub. But it would use the serial USB data lines handshake and in addition to replicating one or more additional USB ports, intelligently inform the tablet to get with the program which is "now we are going to otg and charge at the same time." This requires an intelligent external device with a CPU in it probably. It seems to me that many other tablets have managed accomplish the goal here witho the necessity for an intelligent external device and so the Stream should also be able to do so. There is a device which claims to be able to work with the HP Stream 7 and 8 and even provides ethernet and DVI ports in addition to the USB and of coarse charges the stream as well. But its expensive because it is active. Se here: http://amzn.com/B00OVDE0GC It is called a "Docking Station" A reference for a product that does exactly what I want (possibly without active electronics) is here: http://amzn.com/B00LTHBCNM It is by Kirin and it is a squid type device with four USB ports. It does precisely what my objective is. But reading in the reviews a Stream 7 user indicated that it would not OTG and charge, not exactly clear if it worked as an OTG USB hub or not. Another reviewer indicated that it would not even support a single USB device much less charge on the Stream 8. This device has a switch on it. I forgot to mention that some "hackers" have claimed to succeed with other tablets to trick their devices by using a multi step process to plug things in. Usually in general they would get the tablet connected and charging first, then they would flip a switch or something removing whatever resistor or signal was presented by the first switch position. For whatever reason the tablet would continue to charge. Then the data lines would be free and they would plug in a usb stick and it would mount up correctly even as the tablet was still charging. Its like the power circuit has a latch that will not allow it to flip to "power flow out" mode so long as it senses power is still flowing inward regardless of what software is telling it. Complete guess here. Such tricks seem iffy to me. Changes in the BIOS could change the way this works. Also you can't be sure what is really happening if you don't have a schematic. You could damage your tablet. A lot of people go by the charging icon indicated in the OS to know if the tablet is charging. But I am a low risk kind of guy and my policy is generally to not intereperet indicators to have any meaning at all the once a device is operating in a non standard setting. Especially when its something i didn't build and couldn't fix if I fry it. Hypothetical reasoning: tell me what sensory data actually drives the state of the on screen charging indicator? Does it reflect the hardware control bit that actually programs the power direction and state on the port? Or does it measure the direction of power flow, say in the battery supervisory section of the circuitry? Point is - none of us have a schematic because it is proprietary. To really be safe depending on how smart the hardware electronics are, the port needs to be in a deliberate "power flow in" mode. If it is in a "power flow out" mode and power is being delivered externally as well you wind up with the two power supplies driving the same power nets. In that circumstance, the two opposing regulators which are both attempting to drive 5 V may have slightly different voltage calibrations. That could cause them to fight each other with over 100% of their current capacitiy. For example if one attempts to regulate 4.95 V actual and the other and the other attempts to regulate 5.05 V. Current will then flow to the tune of 100 mV / a couple milliohms in the wires connecting the two. This could be several amps. (a lot) In other words, like I said: You want the tablet to know that power is coming in not going out and to automatically hit the necessary internal switches to make this happen. Probably the tray icon should accurately indicate this but in some goofy situation it might not. There may be a chance the icon could indicate charging and still be burning up or stressing some circuit of the tablet or charger. Another possible thing I could see happening is if you play with those resistor signalled types enough you might find a resistance value that winds up placing the device in an intermittant state. In other words it keeps flipping back and forth rapidly between OTG and charge. It may give the illusion that it works. You may have marginal communication with your USB devices and the battery might even charge. But still lots of stress will be on the power circuit. It is hard for me to risk a perfectly good tablet if I am not sure exactly what I am doing. If some brave individual performs their own experimentation and verifies that it charges and OTGs and you tell the rest of us, then you'll be a hero. Maybe one of you has good knowledge about the USB standard to be more confident in such an experiment . . . like how is the ID pin 4 REALLY supposed to work for example? That is what I know so far. If you think you can help further, thanks in advance, or if this has helped you, then your quite welcome.

To everybody who replied, thanks very much for your input. Firstly, beegmouse those two links are a great find. Lots of good info. Dell™ Micro USB Dongle for Data and ChargingHow To Turn A $99 Tablet Into A Workstation! A few things still worry me. 1. The article is entirely about the Stream 7 not the Stream 8 (minor). 2. In the comments below the article a few people indicate that it charges, but slowly or remains at a steady power state. One of the commenters also provides a link to another similar OTG and Charge Device. Universal usb OTG Charger HUB cable for Tablet PC thinkpad 8,X98, M80ta,WT-8,Miix2,ME-400C,V8P,T100TA,W4-820,V975I,more models One commentor, Martinot states: "I know others who got this one to work with HP Stream:" Then Martinot reposts the same thing but with a slight correction: "I know some who got this one to work with HP Stream 7 and other Windows tablets:" So is it only Stream 7? or other Streams too? The charging "slowly" part kinda scares me. It seems to indicate somethings not right.I don't want to fry my charging circuit and wind up having to RMA it. Of coarse it could just be these people's perception as well. Like watching grass grow. I charged mine and it is normally kindof slow. It takes the whole night to charge when it is shut down and using the supplied cable and charger. Finally from the DIY perspective - Where's the magic? I notice that the Dell device specs say that the Micro B female port on it is dedicated for charging. So you connect your supplied cable and charger to that and the USB device to the other port. (in the absence of a dock or USB hub) I suspect there's an open on the data lines in the female micro B port of the DELL thinger. That way the 0 Ohm short on data +/- that is completed by the charger doesn't make it through the DELL thinger to the tablet. But does the dell thinger replace it with something else? Can't be anything very low impedence or the data to the USB device would be too loaded down to signal. Maybe it puts something on pin 4 the ID pin. Really hard to say. Also difficult to get probes on that little Micro B male. I need to get some push pins or something super tiny to probe those tiny pins. ~~~ Thanks for your post and thread reference leo_kendall.(Parallel Thread on This Forum: OTG, charging and extrenal batery pack works HP stream 7) leo_kendall says that it charges "slowly" using this method as well. Others in that thread report slow charging, but one said no charge at all . . . maybe did it wrong? Interesting that you need to disable the Microsoft ac adapter device driver. Also thank you to eriri-el, I actually saw that entire video even before I posted the first time. Remember that the video demonstrates this with a Toshiba something or other, not a Stream 8. One thing that is clear to me is that tablets all have unique behavior with respect to OTG plus charge. Still to address the idea, I think this may almost be electrically identical to leo_kendall's method. However it could be slightly different at the Micro B end because one begins life as an OTG cable. The other is something different. I researched the Y cable at Startech. 3 ft USB Y Cable for External Hard Drive - Dual USB A to Micro B The purpose of the cable is to provide the ability to connect the USB Micro B end to a single power hungry client USB device - such as external hard drive. The other two branches go to the PC in normal use. One provides the actual USB data connection with the standard 500 mA of power. The other (red one) provides an additional 500 mA of power from a second USB port. The point is to provide double the power to an ext HDD. There are no data wires in the red one. In the linked video, the cable is being completely repurposed. Not that it's an invalid idea, you just have to be careful when trying to be smarter than the designers. Basically both methods place all three ends (Tablet, Charger, and USB Device) on the same common power bus. That is, sharing the same +5V and Ground nets. How these two methods may differ has to do with that fishy ID pin (pin 4). leo_kendall started with an OTG cable. Whatever the OTG cable had on pin 4 before, I think it probably retained in his mod. Be that a resistor to gnd pin 5, a short to ground pin 5 or whatever. Its probably embedded in the molded plastic of the Mirco B connector which was not cut open or modified right? Who knows what is on pin 4 until you get a DMM connected to some tiny push pins and measure pin 4 on that particular OTG cable. Whatever is on there, It makes sense that it signals to the tablet "Hey, I'm an OTG cable, do OTG stuff." In the tablet's sense of the world, I think "OTG stuff" doesn't include charging. Hence why leo_kendall had to disable the ac adapter device driver. Intuitively, to me "OTG stuff" would mean put out power to the connected device not take in power. But they say it works so . . . What this means is connect the Tablet's battery to a +5V voltage regulator with a 500 mA current limiter heading OUTwards on the port. Voltage regulators and current limiters are usually one way things. And trying to put power through them the wrong way should not work at all. If it does its because additional circuitry was implemented to allow it. But can you count out the designer to have gone that extra mile? Unless there is no signal at all on pin 4 or whatever. . . Maybe the power nets of the tablet are smart enough to sense the power level inside and outside and judge from that to determine if it needs to supply power out or drink power in. I mentioned in my first post that "could be" So the difference is .. . eriri-el's Startech Y cable is made for a completely different purpose. It might have the same thing on pin 4 or something different. I can't tell from here. Its not an OTG cable I know that. Does an OTG have some special thing on pin 4? I just don't know. But the guy in the video from eriri-el didn't mention needing to disable his ac adapter device driver. ~~~ So some of you have working OTG plus charge. I am still not 100% convinced of the safety. I know I'm a chicken. But that's just me. Needing to disable microsoft drivers, not unusual. Using Y cables for things they are not intended for, I dig that too. Cutting open OTG cables and twisting wires together. Sure! May I suggest that anyone trying this uses either some heat shrink tubing or electrical tape to completely insulate each wire once its connected. Charging more slowly than normal bothers me. Then again maybe it just charges slow because its booted up and the USB stick uses power as well. ~~~ What progress have I made? Well not much in the way of OTG plus charge. This cable has positively worked for a USB mouse and USB keyboard on my Stream 8: Kirin Micro USB Host Cable Male to 2x Type a Dual USB Female OTG Adapter I know I said not to do that, but it's relevant. I used a DMM (Ohmeter Setting) with alligator clips and some safety pins with a piece of kleenex to insulate them from one another. I measured between the Micro B pin 4 and 5 (ID and GND) on the above Kirin (OTG) cable and got close to zero Ohms in both polaritys. (Red probe on pin 4 while black on 5 AND red probe on 5 while black on 4) I measured 26 MOhms between the D+ and D- (3 and 2)on the Mirco B. (Hi Impedance) The power pins were straight through to both USB A connectors. Because its a dual port, I know it has to be a port replicator (hub) so there are some active electronics between the data lines, and those chips being powered by the +5V bus that shared three ways. So the Micro B end looks just like this electrically: ID Pin Schematic In the Kirin there are of coarse two USB A ports, and the D + and - are not straight through but have a replicator device in the middle. The most relevant thing is pin 4 I think. I have seen it suggested to use a resistor as the ID pin short. This is the first real OTG cable I have had my hands on to put a probe on it and it uses a wire not a resistor. . . go fig. Wire cheaper than cheapest resistor ? yes indeed. I could probably do with this cable what leo_kendall showed without cutting it open by simply connecting the necessary gender changer cable from the charger to one of the Kirin's USB As. But if that cable puts through both D +/- lines the D+ to D- short seen at the charger might (digitally) do strange things to that port on the replicator. A homemade USB A male - male power only cable then. Now I just have to tell myself its safe to try. Another thing I noticed about the Kirin's Micro B male is that the pins are recessed at three different levels so as to create contact in a sequence vs all at once. Level 1 being the first to contact, then 2 and 3 last.1. +5V2. D+ D- GND3. ID One final link USB Micro B Pinout for Hosts The last sentence on the page above is my favorite part "Additionally, most devices can receive power in host mode, even though this is not part of the standard." Well I have had enough of this for today. I will be sure to update if I get this working. For now be safe with your tablets all.
Thanks again for your ideas and input.

Bogus Account Changes And Charges + Lack of Support

This is a formal dispute of my charges per your agreement, although you have done away with any means to email you as stated in said agreement. Your customer service is not willing to assist me with this. You have made unauthorized changes to my account, you have for months charged erroneously to my account per these unauthorized changes, you recommended an incorrigible phone, your web site is notoriously difficult for users, and your customer support is aggravatingly difficult to get in touch with.   At one point some companies grow too big and begin to ignore their customers. Has Verizon reached that nexus?
1. Since my bill dated 5/24 - 6/23, 2013 you have erroneously charged for texting on the phone ending in 1675. You turned on text messaging on this phone without my authorization. I made it very clear in my discussion with your rep. on 6/10/13 that this phone was NOT to have text messaging. That rep. blocked "Premium Messaging" which I am now told does not allow to block other text messaging. To the user a text is a text is a text. It doesn't matter what you want to call it. I said at that time NO text messaging on that phone period! The user of that phone was not aware that I did not authorize it and thought it was a normal course as most users now have and use texting. NOT on that phone. I made that clear to Verizon.
Bill 5/24/13 - 6/23/13     $00.40
Bill 6/24/13 - 7/23/13     $36.45
Bill 7/24/13 - 8/23/13     $45.80
Bill 8/24/13 - 9/23/13     $35.15
Bill 9/24/13 - 10/23/13   $Unknown as bill not submitted at the time of this posting.
Plus additional fees, surcharges, taxes and other charges.
                      Total at least $117.80 plus most recent bill charges plus surcharges, fees, taxes, and other charges related.
2. Since my bill dated 2/24 - 3/23, 2013 you have erroneously downloaded applications for mobile email and college pix to the phone ending in 4010. On Jun 10, 2013 I talked to that same rep. about this and was told that it was taken care of in that it was turned off and the charges would be refunded. It was not! The apps are still there. This user absolutely DOES NOT go to the internet on this phone. There should be NO data charges, and NO app downloads, and no relationship to the internet whatsoever. For that matter neither does the phone ending in 0016 and I explained that at the time also. THESE ARE PHONES ONLY. We have computers for the internet. Your service support supervisor on 10/10/13 suggested that the user of this phone has downloaded them and I will tell you that is false. More about this phone in number three below.
Bill 2/24/13 - 3/23/13     Data: $1.99     College Pix App: $4.99
Bill 3/24/13 - 4/23/13     Data: $1.99     College Pix App: $4.99
Bill 4/24/13 - 5/23/13     Data: $1.99     College Pix App: $4.99
Bill 5/24/13 - 6/23/13     Data: $11.94   College Pix App: $4.99
Bill 6/24/13 - 7/23/13     Data: $1.99     College Pix App: $4.99     Mobile Email App: $5.00
Bill 7/24/13 - 8/23/13                               College Pix App: $4.99     Mobile Email App: $5.00
Bill 8/24/13 - 9/24/13     Data: $1.99     College Pix App: $4.99     Mobile Email App: $5.00
Bill 9/24/13 - 10/23/13   $Unknown as bill not submitted at the time of this posting.
Plus additional fees, surcharges, taxes and other charges.
                    Total at least $$71.82 plus most recent bill charges plus surcharges, fees, taxes, and other charges related.
Additional charges: Billable hours are $48.68 per hour at 2.83 hours is $138.27 for one hour on the phone with customer rep. and supervisor 10/10/13 and one hour and 50 minutes searching agreement record and submitting this message.
Total estimate to date: $327.89
3. This "Pantech Jest" is a piece of junk phone. Your rep. suggested it for this user. She has had nothing but difficulty in attempting to answer this phone nearly from the start. We call her and and she either cannot hear or cannot answer (the button just does not work). I doubted her until I tried it. The store blew her off.   I have witnessed this phone arbitrarily dialing from in her purse. Could this phone also then be activating the internet? I would bet on that. I was not told on 6/10/13 by your rep. that we would have to remove the apps from her phone. The very same apps that she didn't download in the first place. Neither did the rep. whom I spoke with on 10/10/13 say so. It was the supervisor I spoke with on 10/10/13 who finally told me that I would have to remove them to fix your error.
4. Your website is extremely difficult to navigate. I am returning to paper billing and will conduct business outside of your website. For example, the supervisor I spoke to on 10/10/13 told me that I could find the documents that she swore were sent to me by "snail" mail. I went to where she told me and got a nonsensical "archive" site called "Page Freezer" that seemed more like a communication news web site than a storage place for documents. It took me a good while to locate the agreements to which she referred. By the way, just as I told that supervisor, I have not received ANY snail mail from Verizon whatsoever since I went paperless online.
Your agreement text:
"If you are a Postpay customer, you can dispute your bill within 180 days of receiving it, but unless otherwise provided by law or unless you're disputing charges because your wireless device is lost or stolen, you still have to pay all charges until the dispute is resolved. If you're a Prepaid customer, you can dispute a charge within 180 days of the date the disputed charge was incurred. YOU MAY CALL US TO DISPUTE CHARGES ON YOUR BILL OR ANY SERVICE(S) FOR WHICH YOU WERE BILLED, BUT IF YOU WISH TO PRESERVE YOUR RIGHT TO BRING AN ARBITRATION OR SMALL CLAIMS CASE REGARDING SUCH DISPUTE, YOU MUST WRITE TO US AT THE CUSTOMER SERVICE ADDRESS ON YOUR BILL, SEND AN EMAIL THROUGH THE "CONTACT US" LINK ON VERISONWIRELESS.COM, OR SEND US A COMPLETED NOTICE OF DISPUTE FORM (AVAILABLE AT VERIZONWIRELESS.COM), WITHIN THE 180-DAY PERIOD MENTIONED ABOVE. IF YOU DO NOT NOTIFY US IN WRITING OF SUCH DISPUTE WITHIN THE 180-DAY PERIOD, YOU WILL HAVE WAIVED YOUR RIGHT TO DISPUTE THE BILL OR SUCH SERVICE(S) AND TO BRING AN ARBITRATION OR SMALL CLAIMS CASE REGARDING ANY SUCH DISPUTE."
Are you going to make my account whole or do we need to go down the this other road? Why wouldn't you want to work with a long time customer?
Private info removed as required by the Terms of Service.
Message was edited by: Admin Moderator

    Having unknown charges can be frustrating ONETIMEONLY. I'm sorry you were charged for functions and features that you requested to be turned off or blocked. We can definitely take a look at the bill, notations, and individual phone features. I would love to help a long time customer figure this out and make things right again. To discuss features, billing, notifications, and charges we will need to speak with you. Please send a private message with your name and mobile number. We do our best to provide customers with multiple ways to contact us. You can chat with us, use Twitter @vzwsupport, Facebook, call at 1-800-922-0204 or *611, and visit us at a store location. I'm also sorry you find it difficult to talk with us and to navigate our website. We are constantly updating the site to make it easier for our customers and would love to walk you through any steps to locate information you need on my-verizon http://bit.ly/xB4iTc . Additionally, I love the Pantech Jest and I'm sad to hear you are having issues with it. We do our best to suggest the best phone for our customers but it is ultimately up to you as the consumer to purchase what you think is best. If the phone is having calling and functionality issues, we can trouble-shoot to help get them resolved. If the phone is dialing randomly, I recommend locking it. If the button is not working, we may need to discuss replacing the phone. Is the device damaged? We also can not download apps to a phone. The user of the device can only download apps to a phone and if there are unauthorized apps its because they put them on the phone. Yes, you will need to remove apps from a phone so they are not used. I know this is difficult and you have spoken to other reps who were trying to help you but I want to let you know that you are a priority to us and if cost is important to you, its important to us. Any amount of money that is charged erroneously is not ok with us and should be reviewed. I look forward to hearing from you so that we can get you back to the happy side of Verizon.
KinquanaH_VZW
Follow us on Twitter @vzwsupport

USBOTG and Charge Simultaneously on Stream 8

To keep this thread as efficient and productive as possible for all those who it will be useful to:
Unless you have in front of you
1. A schematic of the Stream 8 USB port (USB port and battery power circuit etc)
2. Source code of the BIOS firmware and kernel which control the hardware
Please DO NOT reply simpy to say "this is not possible". Given the above being true, you do not have enough info to say "not possible".
If no one replys with a solution, let it be called impossible by default.
Also please do not reply to say "I don't know how" or "but I know how to do this other thing" thats also not so helpful.
A BIOS update or other software update may be required by HP, Microsoft or both to make this really intuitive, and completely possible, functionality available.
And hopefully this thread can be a consolidated effort by all of us who have the Stream 8 to bring any such necessary changes about. A majority of other tablet PC are capable of this. It seems that only the Stream 8 and a few others have trouble with it.
~~~~
I desire the ability to use a simple, perhaps standard, inexpensive cable (with minimal active electronics inside) that allows me to host and use one or more USB devices on the Stream 8 via its USB micro B port while this cable can also be connected to a standard charger and charge the Stream 8 simultaneously. This means the cable has a minimum of three connectors. One possible configuration is as follows (leaving the normal charge cable aside):
1. USB Micro B Male - to connect to the Stream 8
2. USB A Male - to connect to the AC charger (ie the one that came with the Stream 8)
3. USB A Female - one or more connectors to plug in USB data stick, keyboard, mouse or even a hub.
Connector # 2. above will provide power to charge the Stream 8 via conn. #1 and also supply power to the external USB device(s) via conn. #3 while they are in use - all simultaneously.
A plus if the same cable can act as a normal OTG without a charger for when no external power is available. Maybe this will require a switch or some active electrontics inside.
The final part of this goal is kind of important for various reasons. I would like HP, the maker of the Stream 8, to state in writing the correct mode necessary to do this so that other manufacturers or even do-it yourselfers can make maximal use of their HP tablet equipment.
~~~~
The neat thing this will alow a person to do with their tablet, is to work at home using the tablet like a desktop PC by connecting a keyboard, mouse, perhaps external display (with USB to display adapter) and work for a long time without being time limited by battery life because the charger supplies the power to everything involved.
If there is only one #3 connector on the cable then an additional hub of coarse would be required to provide support for those multiple USB devices at once. However it would be better if there were multiple of the #3 connectors built in to the cable itself. This would be best because a proper USB hub also requires its own power. Only one power adapter would be needed if the whole thing were integrated into one.
~~~~
I would really like replys from anyone who has already accomplished USB OTG plus simultaneous charging with the Stream 8. (independant of any published "correct" way is also welcome)
The date today is 2015-01-16. If by 2015-02-16 (one month) no one has posted a solution then lets start to bug HP and Microsoft about it shall we?
~~~~
Technical Background:
I understand the possibility that the tablet software and or firmware needs to make a decision about which way power is flowing on the power pins of the USB mirco B port.
I know that with proper design the electronic circuit carring these power signals inside the tablet could be sensitive to what is plugged in and safely decide for itself what to do without any need for software control. For example by periodically testing/sensing voltage differentials or current direction to see which sides of the connector can supply power.
But that is only one of many "could bes"
Furthermore this may be non-standard with respect to the USB standard. What appears to actually be the case with many OTG+Charge cables is that physical cues built into the cable or charger are used to signal to the tablet what the situation is. Then the tablet's firmware/software recieves the signal, interprets what the situation is intelligently and responds by flipping the correct hardware control bits to turn on, or off power flow at the port and also control its direction in or out.
I am not familiar with the USB standard. Perhaps I could do more research, if I had faith that HP followed it with the Stream 8 or even that the standard covered this situation explicitly.
But to a degree it seems like I am having to invent something that should intuitively just exist as it does with other tablets. No? Maybe I am overthinking but I can't find any USB OTG + Charge cables that specify compatibility with the HP Stream 8.
Anyway, I have been made familiar with two methods other tablets use to send the above mentioned signal to the hardware/firmware/software of the tablet to clue it in that it is time to charge vs. time to OTG or both.
The first method is a 0 Ohm to 200 Ohm short between USB A pins 2 and 3. Those are the bidirectional, differential data lines D- and D+ respectively. In data mode all data goes back and forth on these lines. When you charge via a data cable, it is the charger module which places this short, not the cable. I have measured the short on three different chargers. It is 0 Ohms on two of them, one of those being the charger which came with the HP Stream 8. The other 0 ohms was generic. The third was for an apple iPad and it measured about 53KOhms. That is probably not the 0-200 Ohm resistor but probably it is the termination impedance indicating that there is some communication intelligent serial port in the charger itself. Let it up to Apple to be different.
This method is somewhat moot because this mode of signaling would prevent OTG + Charge because it seems unlikely that you'll be able to OTG when the data lines are shorted to one another and loaded down with such low impedance. I could be wrong about this. . .
The other method I have seen suggested to work with some tablets and phones other than the Stream 8, is to short the USB Micro B pin 5 to pin 4 with 0 Ohms to 100,000 Ohms.
USB B has 5 pins. USB A only has 4. The extra pin on B displaces the GND pin from pin 4 to pin 5 and makes pin 4 an ID pin.
So this signal applies a pull-down to the ID pin (pin 4) or in some cases I have seen it suggested to short it down with 0 Ohms.
Dead shorting things always makes me nervous. If ID is a simple high impedance normally high input, a resistor could be used to make the voltage well below the low or zero threshold while also preventing the risk of damage when fooling with a device you don't have the schematic for.
Still, 100K is a little high for a "pull down" in most situations I am used to. Even a 10K would be iffy. A 1 K or 2 K seems pretty safe but then things are lower and lower current these days. . . Anything but a dead short though if possible.
So it seems possible to me that the device might be able to "identify" by the specific value of the resistor that is here. In other words the resistor is not a pull down but actually an analog ID signature, in which case the exact value will be critical. So if this is the case, a guess isn't going to work.
Obviously in any such scheme as described above, some chip inside the Stream 8 would need to be responsible for supporting such intelligence. I am hoping that the Stream 8 has such a chip.
Likely a register inside that chip would reflect at all times what the state of the ID pin is with a binary number. All that is needed is for the BIOS to address the chip and the register in it and read that number via the bus to determine what is going on at the port. Finally it would use that info to send hardware control signals to the power electrontics to set the proper direction for power to flow etc. (and change the state of the icon on the screen of coarse)
I am not sure if the ID pin method described is a USB standard or not either.
There may possibly be a third way. But I do not suspect it would be possible with a non-active external device. In any case too complicated for the novice DIY for sure.
The apparatus would need to act is some kind of bus extender. Like an active hub. But it would use the serial USB data lines handshake and in addition to replicating one or more additional USB ports, intelligently inform the tablet to get with the program which is "now we are going to otg and charge at the same time."
This requires an intelligent external device with a CPU in it probably.
It seems to me that many other tablets have managed accomplish the goal here witho the necessity for an intelligent external device and so the Stream should also be able to do so.
There is a device which claims to be able to work with the HP Stream 7 and 8 and even provides ethernet and DVI ports in addition to the USB and of coarse charges the stream as well. But its expensive because it is active. Se here:
http://amzn.com/B00OVDE0GC
It is called a "Docking Station"
A reference for a product that does exactly what I want (possibly without active electronics) is here:
http://amzn.com/B00LTHBCNM
It is by Kirin and it is a squid type device with four USB ports. It does precisely what my objective is. But reading in the reviews a Stream 7 user indicated that it would not OTG and charge, not exactly clear if it worked as an OTG USB hub or not. Another reviewer indicated that it would not even support a single USB device much less charge on the Stream 8. This device has a switch on it.
I forgot to mention that some "hackers" have claimed to succeed with other tablets to trick their devices by using a multi step process to plug things in. Usually in general they would get the tablet connected and charging first, then they would flip a switch or something removing whatever resistor or signal was presented by the first switch position. For whatever reason the tablet would continue to charge. Then the data lines would be free and they would plug in a usb stick and it would mount up correctly even as the tablet was still charging.
Its like the power circuit has a latch that will not allow it to flip to "power flow out" mode so long as it senses power is still flowing inward regardless of what software is telling it. Complete guess here.
Such tricks seem iffy to me. Changes in the BIOS could change the way this works. Also you can't be sure what is really happening if you don't have a schematic. You could damage your tablet. A lot of people go by the charging icon indicated in the OS to know if the tablet is charging. But I am a low risk kind of guy and my policy is generally to not intereperet indicators to have any meaning at all the once a device is operating in a non standard setting. Especially when its something i didn't build and couldn't fix if I fry it.
Hypothetical reasoning: tell me what sensory data actually drives the state of the on screen charging indicator? Does it reflect the hardware control bit that actually programs the power direction and state on the port? Or does it measure the direction of power flow, say in the battery supervisory section of the circuitry? Point is - none of us have a schematic because it is proprietary. To really be safe depending on how smart the hardware electronics are, the port needs to be in a deliberate "power flow in" mode. If it is in a "power flow out" mode and power is being delivered externally as well you wind up with the two power supplies driving the same power nets. In that circumstance, the two opposing regulators which are both attempting to drive 5 V may have slightly different voltage calibrations. That could cause them to fight each other with over 100% of their current capacitiy. For example if one attempts to regulate 4.95 V actual and the other and the other attempts to regulate 5.05 V. Current will then flow to the tune of 100 mV / a couple milliohms in the wires connecting the two. This could be several amps. (a lot) In other words, like I said: You want the tablet to know that power is coming in not going out and to automatically hit the necessary internal switches to make this happen. Probably the tray icon should accurately indicate this but in some goofy situation it might not. There may be a chance the icon could indicate charging and still be burning up or stressing some circuit of the tablet or charger.
Another possible thing I could see happening is if you play with those resistor signalled types enough you might find a resistance value that winds up placing the device in an intermittant state. In other words it keeps flipping back and forth rapidly between OTG and charge. It may give the illusion that it works. You may have marginal communication with your USB devices and the battery might even charge. But still lots of stress will be on the power circuit.
It is hard for me to risk a perfectly good tablet if I am not sure exactly what I am doing.
If some brave individual performs their own experimentation and verifies that it charges and OTGs and you tell the rest of us, then you'll be a hero.
Maybe one of you has good knowledge about the USB standard to be more confident in such an experiment . . . like how is the ID pin 4 REALLY supposed to work for example?
That is what I know so far. If you think you can help further, thanks in advance, or if this has helped you, then your quite welcome.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_JnKir_PWU
Was about to ask whether anyone tried this with their Stream 7/8, I hope you don't mind me putting this here since our goals are the same. So did anyone try this? I might do it soon, but I just bought an OTG cable, so maybe next time. It just requires a microusb Y cable and a female adapter, no dismantling/cutting/soldering necessary.

Touch Screen and Charge Issue

Hey everyone, first time here but also registered at precentral
Asked there, but I'm hoping here would be a better place to voice this issue.
This is my 2nd New Pre I had as the first one had random keyboard loss when my phone died due to battery. I was able to fix it with a 5th batt pull, but I wasn't chancing it..so swiped it.
Well, got my phone with 1.2.x out of the box and tested fine at the store. When home and updated to 1.3.1. weeks later the issue.
touch would random stop working...I had preware so I decided maybe it was a patch or app messing it up (I noticed I didn't have message foward working after update)
So I Doctored it. The Process went nervously fine, up until I got to the home screen. The Touch went out again!
But after messing around a bit after getting it back after a battery pull (at the time touch comes and goes) I was easily able to recreate the issue.
For example:
Touch = dead, once I plug it into a charger (usb/wall), Touch returns.
Touch = alive, (after it came back during day) Once I Plug in to charge, Touch gone.
There was a point that touch wouldn't return if I had the phone slider closed, with screen unlocked. Wether I was plugging it in or removing to charger.
I hope this makes sense, and really hope its not hardware, as I don't wanna return phone to find out it repeats on a new/refurb one. As this one feels solid in every other dept.
Q's Did palm change how the phone locks..reacts to charger??
If so, god, please fix it!
Post relates to: Pre p100eww (Sprint)

ok, I left work today. in the elevator down to my car i started pandora, bluetooth. Got in the car, docked the phone, plugged in the aux wire to my radio, charger to the phone. Music, couple of calls, music agian, skipped some songs, changed pandora stations, etc...
Got home, undocked the phone, unplugged aux cable and charger, close pandora, turn off the light. Grab my stuff, phone rings can not answer it. Screen now does not work anymore.
Pull the battery twice, no luck. Do some searching and see some post that it is realated to the battery connection and a post that other have got it to work with the charger plugged in.
I take the USB cable, PC to phone and it starts working!! yeah... mess with that batter and no luck. stops working again. unplug the USB from the PC and it is still working. Uplug the USB from the phone, stops working, plug it back in to the phone, not the PC and the screen works again... not really sure what that is about. now it is working with no wire.

After updating my iPad it now shows iTunes symbol and charger cable. It won't do anything else please help

AAfter updating my iPad 4 wwith iOS 8 it now shows iTunes symbol and charging cable but it won't let me do anything else please help

Hello nicholafrombelfast,
Thanks for using Apple Support Communities.
This screen on your iPad indicates that the device is in recovery mode and will need to be plugged in to your computer with iTunes to restore the device back to its factory settings. Please see the following articles for more information.
If you can't update or restore your iPhone, iPad, or iPod touch
Use iTunes to restore your iOS device to factory settings
Take care,
Alex H.

Heres the deal my cuzin stold my ipods charger(the one to download music and charge in a usb port)well i found it in her room and she says its hers (but its not!) is thier a way to prove that the charger is mine ?? please help me find a way to prove it!

like i said my cusin stold my charger and says its hers when i know its mine but is thier a way i can prove it to her? please help:( my ipod is dead ever scence and i want it back!

i thought about going the same route you did, but when I started looking at the prices of everything, I decided it was a better idea to just get a new stereo that can play and charge my iPhone.
After a lot of comparing, looking and price checking, I decided to go with the Alpine IDA-X100. This is a media player only device (no cd player built in) and it has been great. It has an awesome interface and dial setup that let's you go through your music just as if it were on an iPod. It even has a small color screen that displays the album artwork for you. My car has a factory BOSE system in it and the Alpine head unit even managed to improve the sound quality. Go see you local alpine dealer (or best buy) and check it out. The supplied cable charges the phone and plays music too. Your iPhone will give you an error message when you plug it in, saying that the accessory was not designed for iPhone, but if you just click no it works great.

Fm transmitting and charging in car

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